TechWiki - User contributions [en-gb]

https://wiki.seloc.org/api.php?action=feedcontributions&feedformat=atom&user=Arisutea TechWiki - User contributions [en-gb] 2026-04-06T15:55:51Z User contributions MediaWiki 1.45.3 https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Part_Cross_Reference&diff=13567 Part Cross Reference 2022-08-09T15:04:37Z

<p>Arisutea: /* Electrical */ Added license plate lamps</p> <hr /> <div>=S2 Elise/Exige & S3 Elise=<br /> ==Body==<br /> {| class="wikitable sortable" style="text-align:center"<br /> |-<br /> ! data-sort-type="number" width="150" | '''Lotus Part Number'''<br /> ! width="100" | Parts Diagram<br /> ! width="50" | Item #<br /> ! width="100" | Application<br /> ! width="300" | Description<br /> ! width="350" | Alternate Supplier/Sources<br /> |-<br /> | A117M6026F<br /> | 10.17<br /> | 9<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Door Reflector<br /> | <br /> Hella 8RA 002 014-232 <br /> AHLMANN 5170204 <br /> CASE IH 811391-0600<br /> HYMER 1841715 <br /> JCB 703/05800 <br /> KUBOTA 3J02866111 <br /> VOLVO1 130 506 4 <br /> WEIDEMANN 1000098160<br /> |-<br /> |-<br /> | A702A6000F<br /> | 10.31<br /> | 4<br /> | S3 Elise Cup<br /> | Tow Strap<br /> | TRS 23N5010<br /> |-<br /> |}<br /> <br /> ==Glazing and Seals==<br /> {| class="wikitable sortable" style="text-align:center"<br /> |-<br /> ! data-sort-type="number" width="150" | '''Lotus Part Number'''<br /> ! width="100" | Parts Diagram<br /> ! width="50" | Item #<br /> ! width="100" | Application<br /> ! width="300" | Description<br /> ! width="350" | Alternate Supplier/Sources<br /> |-<br /> |}<br /> <br /> ==Exterior Fittings==<br /> {| class="wikitable sortable" style="text-align:center"<br /> |-<br /> ! data-sort-type="number" width="150" | '''Lotus Part Number'''<br /> ! width="100" | Parts Diagram<br /> ! width="50" | Item #<br /> ! width="100" | Application<br /> ! width="300" | Description<br /> ! width="350" | Alternate Supplier/Sources<br /> |-<br /> | B117U0124F <br /> | 12.09<br /> | 1<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Side mirror RH<br /> | Rover CRB10269<br /> |-<br /> | B117U0123F <br /> | 12.09<br /> | 1a<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Side mirror LH<br /> | Rover CRB10270<br /> |-<br /> | B111U0117K<br /> | 12.09<br /> | 3<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Mirror Housing<br /> | Rover 100's and some late Mini Metro<br /> |-<br /> | A111U6046F<br /> | 12.09<br /> | 4<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Mirror Glass<br /> | Rover CRD10012<br /> |-<br /> |}<br /> <br /> ==Seats & Seat Belts==<br /> {| class="wikitable sortable" style="text-align:center"<br /> |-<br /> ! data-sort-type="number" width="150" | '''Lotus Part Number'''<br /> ! width="100" | Parts Diagram<br /> ! width="50" | Item #<br /> ! width="100" | Application<br /> ! width="300" | Description<br /> ! width="350" | Alternate Supplier/Sources<br /> |-<br /> |}<br /> <br /> ==Pedal Box & Fascia==<br /> {| class="wikitable sortable" style="text-align:center"<br /> |-<br /> ! data-sort-type="number" width="150" | '''Lotus Part Number'''<br /> ! width="100" | Parts Diagram<br /> ! width="50" | Item #<br /> ! width="100" | Application<br /> ! width="300" | Description<br /> ! width="350" | Alternate Supplier/Sources<br /> |-<br /> |}<br /> <br /> ==Interior Trim==<br /> {| class="wikitable sortable" style="text-align:center"<br /> |-<br /> ! data-sort-type="number" width="150" | '''Lotus Part Number'''<br /> ! width="100" | Parts Diagram<br /> ! width="50" | Item #<br /> ! width="100" | Application<br /> ! width="300" | Description<br /> ! width="350" | Alternate Supplier/Sources<br /> |-<br /> |}<br /> <br /> ==Electrical==<br /> {| class="wikitable sortable" style="text-align:center"<br /> |-<br /> ! data-sort-type="number" width="150" | '''Lotus Part Number'''<br /> ! width="100" | Parts Diagram<br /> ! width="50" | Item #<br /> ! width="100" | Application<br /> ! width="300" | Description<br /> ! width="350" | Alternate Supplier/Sources<br /> |-<br /> | A100M6048F<br /> | 17.05<br /> | 1<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Column Switch, LH, indicators/dip/flash<br /> | GM 92115270<br /> |-<br /> | A100M6049F<br /> | 17.05<br /> | 2<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Column Switch, RH, windscreen wipe/wash<br /> | GM 90243395<br /> |-<br /> | A117M6064F<br /> | 17.05<br /> | 13<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Switch, window lift<br /> | GM?<br /> |-<br /> | N/A<br /> | 17.06<br /> | 1 & 1a<br /> | S2 Elise<br /> | T4 ECU Connector (ECU soldered in)<br /> | TE 8-1393476-0<br /> |-<br /> | N/A<br /> | 17.06<br /> | 1 & 1a<br /> | S2 Elise<br /> | T4 ECU Connectors (Cables)<br /> |<br /> Large 52 Pin Connector<br /> TE 1393450-5<br /> TE 1393454-9<br /> <br /> Small 28 pin Connector<br /> TE 1393436-4<br /> TE 1393454-5<br /> |-<br /> | N/A<br /> | 17.06<br /> | 1 & 1a<br /> | S2 Elise<br /> | T4 ECU Pins & grommets<br /> |<br /> Regular Pins<br /> TE 2-1411573-1<br /> TE 963530-1<br /> <br /> 4 Wire Pins<br /> TE 1393457-4<br /> TE 1411594-1<br /> |-<br /> | N/A<br /> | 17.06<br /> | 1b-g<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige 06+ Throttle By Wire<br /> | T4e ECU Connector (ECU soldered in)<br /> | <br /> Molex 36638-0002<br /> Molex 36638-0003<br /> |-<br /> | N/A<br /> | 17.06<br /> | 1b-g<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige 06+ Throttle By Wire<br /> | T4e ECU Connectors (Cables)<br /> | <br /> Molex 64320-1311<br /> Molex 64320-1319<br /> |-<br /> | N/A<br /> | 17.06<br /> | 1b-g<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige 06+ Throttle By Wire<br /> | T4e ECU Pins<br /> |<br /> Regular Pins<br /> Molex 64322-1039<br /> <br /> Large Pins<br /> Molex 64323-1029<br /> |-<br /> | A120E6282S<br /> | 17.06<br /> | 3 & 3a<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Oil Control Valve, variable valve lift<br /> | Toyota 15330-22020<br /> |-<br /> | A120E6347S<br /> | 17.06<br /> | 4<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Sensor, camshaft position, 2ZZ <br /> | Toyota 90919-05007<br /> |-<br /> | A120E6376S<br /> | 17.06<br /> | 5<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Sensor, knock control, 2ZZ<br /> | Toyota 90126-A0008<br /> |-<br /> | A120E6348S<br /> | 17.06<br /> | 6<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Sensor, crankshaft position, 2ZZ<br /> | Toyota 90919-05048<br /> |-<br /> | A120E6375S<br /> | 17.06<br /> | 7<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Sensor, engine coolant temperature <br /> | Toyota 89422-35010<br /> |-<br /> | A117E6007F<br /> | 17.06<br /> | 8 & 9<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Sensor, oxygen<br /> | <br /> Bosch 0 258 006 127<br /> Rover MHK 100840<br /> Denso DOX-2017<br /> |-<br /> | A120E6373S<br /> | 17.06<br /> | 10<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Sensor, oil pressure, VVTL, 2ZZ<br /> | Toyota 83530-20030<br /> |-<br /> | A120E6440S<br /> | 17.06<br /> | 11<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Sensor, throttle position, 2ZZ<br /> | Toyota 89452-35020<br /> |-<br /> | A120E6443S<br /> | 17.06<br /> | 12<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Valve, vacuum switching, airbox flap valve<br /> | Toyota <br /> |-<br /> | A120E6299S<br /> | 17.06<br /> | 13<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Sensor, mass air flow<br /> | Toyota 22204-22010<br /> |-<br /> | A120M6010S<br /> | 17.06b<br /> | 2<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Rotary Contact Unit, SIR wheel<br /> | GM 09179297 <br /> |-<br /> | A121B0060F<br /> | 17.06b<br /> | 4<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | SRS Unit<br /> | GM? Opel Astra? <br /> |-<br /> | A082M6644F<br /> | 17.17<br /> | 1<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Interior Lamp<br /> | Citroën Saxo, AX and similar variants, zx, 106 etc.<br /> |-<br /> | A132U6027H<br /> | 17.21<br /> | 23<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Washer Pump<br /> | SAAB 90585761<br /> |-<br /> | A117M6028F<br /> | 17.11<br /> | 19<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Lamp, license plate<br /> | <br /> Standard - Hella 2KA 005 049-007<br /> LED - Hella 2KA 010 278-311<br /> |-<br /> |}<br /> <br /> ==HVAC==<br /> {| class="wikitable sortable" style="text-align:center"<br /> |-<br /> ! data-sort-type="number" width="150" | '''Lotus Part Number'''<br /> ! width="100" | Parts Diagram<br /> ! width="50" | Item #<br /> ! width="100" | Application<br /> ! width="300" | Description<br /> ! width="350" | Alternate Supplier/Sources<br /> |-<br /> | B117P0025F/B117P0163F<br /> | 18.07a<br /> | 1<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Blower Motor<br /> | SPAL 007-A42-32D<br /> |-<br /> | A117P0122S<br /> | 18.03<br /> | 3<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Expansion Valve<br /> | <br /> Omega 31-31199 <br /> Case 82023542<br /> Jcbcom 983/11152<br /> New Holland 82023542<br /> |-<br /> | A117M6052S<br /> | 18.01 / 18.12<br /> | 2<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Actuator, heater/AC flaps<br /> | Bergstrom 2199069<br /> |-<br /> | A120P0148S <br /> | 18.07a<br /> | 3<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Resistors on the plate<br /> | <br /> Arcol 284-HS50-0.05<br /> Arcol 284-HS50-0.22<br /> Arcol 284-HS50-0.27 <br /> <br /> Note: reccomended to use 284-HS50-0.15 or 284-HS50-0.1 instead of 284-HS50-0.22, factory middle speed and low speed too close together<br /> |-<br /> | A120P6007F<br /> | 18.03<br /> | 2<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | A/C Drier<br /> | <br /> Vintage Air 07321-VUC<br /> or any Generic 3/8" Drier<br /> |-<br /> | A117P0059F<br /> | 18.03<br /> | 27<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Trinary Switch<br /> | <br /> Vintage Air 11076-VUS <br /> -does not come with connectors<br /> |-<br /> | A120E6491S<br /> | 40.23<br /> | 1<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | AC Compressor<br /> | <br /> Denso 447260-7100<br /> 2000-2014 Toyota Corolla (2.0L Diesel, 1.4/1.6L Gas)<br /> |-<br /> |}<br /> <br /> ==Chassis==<br /> {| class="wikitable sortable" style="text-align:center"<br /> |-<br /> ! data-sort-type="number" width="150" | '''Lotus Part Number'''<br /> ! width="100" | Parts Diagram<br /> ! width="50" | Item #<br /> ! width="100" | Application<br /> ! width="300" | Description<br /> ! width="350" | Alternate Supplier/Sources<br /> |-<br /> |}<br /> <br /> ==Suspension==<br /> {| class="wikitable sortable" style="text-align:center"<br /> |-<br /> ! data-sort-type="number" width="150" | '''Lotus Part Number'''<br /> ! width="100" | Parts Diagram<br /> ! width="50" | Item #<br /> ! width="100" | Application<br /> ! width="300" | Description<br /> ! width="350" | Alternate Supplier/Sources<br /> |-<br /> | A120C0007H / B120C0007H <br /> |<br /> |<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Damper, base front<br /> | Bilstein F4-BE3-A626-T0<br /> |-<br /> | A120D0011H / B120D0011H<br /> |<br /> |<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Damper, base rear<br /> | Bilstein F4-BE3-A627-T0<br /> |-<br /> | A117D6005F <br /> |<br /> |<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Hub/Bearing Assembly, with wheel speed sensor<br /> | SKF VKBA3511<br /> |-<br /> | A117D6002F<br /> |<br /> |<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Hub/Bearing Assembly, no sensor<br /> | SKF VKBA3510<br /> |-<br /> |}<br /> <br /> ==Steering==<br /> {| class="wikitable sortable" style="text-align:center"<br /> |-<br /> ! data-sort-type="number" width="150" | '''Lotus Part Number'''<br /> ! width="100" | Parts Diagram<br /> ! width="50" | Item #<br /> ! width="100" | Application<br /> ! width="300" | Description<br /> ! width="350" | Alternate Supplier/Sources<br /> |-<br /> |}<br /> <br /> ==Brakes==<br /> {| class="wikitable sortable" style="text-align:center"<br /> |-<br /> ! data-sort-type="number" width="150" | '''Lotus Part Number'''<br /> ! width="100" | Parts Diagram<br /> ! width="50" | Item #<br /> ! width="100" | Application<br /> ! width="300" | Description<br /> ! width="350" | Alternate Supplier/Sources<br /> |-<br /> |}<br /> <br /> ==Wheels & Tyres==<br /> {| class="wikitable sortable" style="text-align:center"<br /> |-<br /> ! data-sort-type="number" width="150" | '''Lotus Part Number'''<br /> ! width="100" | Parts Diagram<br /> ! width="50" | Item #<br /> ! width="100" | Application<br /> ! width="300" | Description<br /> ! width="350" | Alternate Supplier/Sources<br /> |-<br /> | A704G0001F / A704G0002F / A704G0003F / A704G0004F<br /> |<br /> |<br /> | S3 Elise Cup<br /> | Wheel, Front 16x7.0 Rear 17x8.0 <br /> | Rimstock Pro Forged Superlight<br /> |}<br /> <br /> ==Engine==<br /> {| class="wikitable sortable" style="text-align:center"<br /> |-<br /> ! data-sort-type="number" width="150" | '''Lotus Part Number'''<br /> ! width="100" | Parts Diagram<br /> ! width="50" | Item #<br /> ! width="100" | Application<br /> ! width="300" | Description<br /> ! width="350" | Alternate Supplier/Sources<br /> |-<br /> | A120E6104S <br /> |<br /> |<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Engine, Toyota 2ZZ-GE<br /> | Toyota Celica/Corolla/Matrix/RAV4, Pontiac Vibe, Chevrolet Prizm<br /> |-<br /> | A131E6024S <br /> |<br /> |<br /> | S2 Elise<br /> | Engine, Toyota 1ZZ-FE<br /> | Toyota Celica/Corolla/Matrix, Pontiac Vibe<br /> |-<br /> | A120E6277S<br /> |<br /> |<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Oil Filter, Toyota 2ZZ<br /> | Toyota 90915-03001, 90915-10004, 90915-YZZF1, 17801-YZZ03; TRD PTR43-33010, PTR04-00142<br /> |-<br /> | A120E6498S<br /> |<br /> |<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Water Pump Assembly, 2ZZ<br /> | Toyota 16100-29146<br /> |-<br /> | A120E6461S<br /> |<br /> |<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Washer, Oil Drain Plug<br /> | Toyota 90430-12031<br /> |-<br /> | A120E6315S<br /> |<br /> |<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Thermostat, 2ZZ<br /> | Toyota 90916-A3003<br /> |-<br /> | A120E6314S <br /> |<br /> |<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Thermostat gasket<br /> | Toyota 16325-62010<br /> |-<br /> | A120E6461S<br /> |<br /> |<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Oil Drain plug washer<br /> | Toyota 90430-12031<br /> |-<br /> | A120E6498S <br /> |<br /> |<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Water Pump Assembly, 2ZZ<br /> | Toyota 16100-29146<br /> |-<br /> | A120E6346S <br /> | 40.17<br /> | 1<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Plug Top Coil, 2ZZ<br /> | <br /> Denso 673-1305<br /> Toyota 90919-02238<br /> |-<br /> | A120E6400S <br /> | 40.19<br /> | 1<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Starter Motor, 2ZZ<br /> | <br /> Toyota 28100-22070<br /> Denso 228000-8671<br /> |-<br /> | A120E6119S <br /> | 40.07<br /> | 2<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Gasket, cam cover, 2ZZ<br /> | Toyota 11213-88600<br /> |}<br /> <br /> ==Belts & Pulleys==<br /> {| class="wikitable sortable" style="text-align:center"<br /> |-<br /> ! data-sort-type="number" width="150" | '''Lotus Part Number'''<br /> ! width="100" | Parts Diagram<br /> ! width="50" | Item #<br /> ! width="100" | Application<br /> ! width="300" | Description<br /> ! width="350" | Alternate Supplier/Sources<br /> |-<br /> | A120E6418S<br /> | 41.03<br /> | 1<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Drive Belt, alternator, water pump, 2ZZ<br /> | 6K560<br /> |-<br /> | A120E6416S<br /> | 41.03<br /> | 1a<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Drive Belt, AC compressor, alternator, water pump, 2ZZ<br /> | 6K660<br /> |-<br /> | A128E6008F <br /> | 41.03<br /> | 1b<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Drive Belt, ancilliaries + supercharger, with AC<br /> | 6K760<br /> |-<br /> | A120E6316S<br /> | 41.03<br /> | 2, 3, & 11<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Tensioner, drive belt, 2ZZ <br /> | Toyota 16620-22034<br /> |-<br /> | A120E6198S <br /> | 41.03<br /> | 7<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Pulley, crankshaft to drive belt, 2ZZ<br /> | Toyota 13470-88600<br /> |-<br /> | A120E6301S<br /> | 41.03<br /> | 8<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Pulley, water pump, 2ZZ<br /> | Toyota 16173-88600<br /> |-<br /> | A120E6417S<br /> | 41.03<br /> | 9<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Pulley, alternator<br /> | Toyota 27411-0D010<br /> |-<br /> |}<br /> <br /> ==Induction Systems==<br /> {| class="wikitable sortable" style="text-align:center"<br /> |-<br /> ! data-sort-type="number" width="150" | '''Lotus Part Number'''<br /> ! width="100" | Parts Diagram<br /> ! width="50" | Item #<br /> ! width="100" | Application<br /> ! width="300" | Description<br /> ! width="350" | Alternate Supplier/Sources<br /> |-<br /> | A120E6385S<br /> | 42.01<br /> | 1<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Airbox Assembly Standard<br /> | <br /> Toyota 17705-22170 - Rear Half<br /> Toyota 17701-22111 - Front Half<br /> |-<br /> | A120E6476S<br /> | 42.01<br /> | 1a<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Airbox Sub-assembly Lower, Common<br /> | Toyota 17701-22111<br /> |-<br /> | A127E6002F<br /> | 42.01<br /> | 1b<br /> | S2 Exige Cup<br /> | Airbox Lower + Sandwich Plate, Accessory upgrade <br /> | TRD PTR41-21055 <br /> |-<br /> | A120E6385S<br /> | 42.01<br /> | 3<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Air Filter stock<br /> | Toyota 17801-0D020<br /> |-<br /> | A127E6003F<br /> | 42.01<br /> | 3a<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Air Filter Cup<br /> | Toyota 17801-03010<br /> |-<br /> | A120E6353S<br /> | 42.04<br /> | 1<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Throttle Body<br /> | Toyota 22210-22040<br /> |-<br /> | A120E6377S<br /> | 42.04<br /> | 5<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Idle Air Control Valve (IAC)<br /> | Toyota 22270-C2ZZ<br /> |-<br /> | A120E6489S<br /> | 42.04<br /> | 8<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige 06+ Throttle By Wire <br /> | Throttle Body, electronic control, 2ZZ<br /> | Toyota 22030-22030<br /> |-<br /> | A120E6353S<br /> | 42.07<br /> | 1<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Inlet Manifold/Plenum, alloy, 2ZZ<br /> | Toyota 17109-88604<br /> |-<br /> | A120E6489S<br /> | 42.07<br /> | 1a<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige 06+ Throttle By Wire <br /> | Inlet Manifold/Plenum, alloy, 2ZZ, electronic control, 2ZZ<br /> | Toyota 17109-88605<br /> |-<br /> | A120E6342S<br /> | 42.07<br /> | 13<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Gasket, inlet manifold, 2ZZ<br /> | Toyota 17177-22010<br /> |-<br /> |}<br /> <br /> ==Fuel System==<br /> {| class="wikitable sortable" style="text-align:center"<br /> |-<br /> ! data-sort-type="number" width="150" | '''Lotus Part Number'''<br /> ! data-sort-type="number" width="100" | Parts Diagram<br /> ! data-sort-type="number" width="50" | Item #<br /> ! width="100" | Application<br /> ! width="300" | Description<br /> ! width="350" | Alternate Supplier/Sources<br /> |-<br /> | A132L6032F<br /> | 44.01d<br /> | 14<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Cap, fuel filler Federal<br /> | <br /> Stant 10851<br /> Stant 10521 (locking)<br /> Jaguar C2P5270<br /> |-<br /> | A127L6002F<br /> | 44.03<br /> | 7<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Fuel Pump<br /> | <br /> Toyota 23221-28280<br /> DENSO 951-0001 <br /> |-<br /> | N/A<br /> | 44.03<br /> | N/A<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Fuel Pump to Upper Housing Wire Harness<br /> | Toyota 77785-32010<br /> |-<br /> | A120L6002S<br /> | 44.03<br /> | 7a<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Fuel Pump, Denso high flow<br /> | DENSO 951-0003 <br /> |-<br /> | A120L6007S<br /> | 44.03<br /> | 4<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Filter, tank<br /> | Toyota 23300-23040<br /> |-<br /> | A120L6008S<br /> | 44.03<br /> | 1<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Pipe Plate Assembly<br /> | Toyota 77024-17020<br /> |-<br /> | A120L6001S<br /> | 44.03<br /> | 8<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Filter, suction, pump<br /> | Toyota 23217-23010<br /> |-<br /> | A120E6413S<br /> | 44.03<br /> | 2<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Fuel Pressure Regulator<br /> | Toyota 23280-22010<br /> |-<br /> | A120L6003S<br /> | 44.03<br /> | 9<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Clip, filter to pump<br /> | Toyota 23219-03010 <br /> |-<br /> | A120L6006S<br /> | 44.03<br /> | 10<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Rubber Cushion, pump assy. Supporting<br /> | Toyota 23249-74610<br /> |-<br /> | A120L6004S<br /> | 44.03<br /> | 6<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Spacer, seal to filter<br /> | Toyota 23225-21010<br /> |-<br /> | A120L6005S <br /> | 44.03<br /> | 5<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Seal, pump to filter<br /> | Toyota 23239-21010<br /> |-<br /> | A120L0020S<br /> | 44.03<br /> | 19<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Sender Unit, fuel level<br /> | Toyota 83320-20610<br /> |-<br /> | A120L6014S<br /> | 44.03<br /> | 3<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Sensor, vapour pressure<br /> | Toyota 89461-0C010<br /> |-<br /> | A120L6014S<br /> | 44.03<br /> | 24<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Cap, fuel pump module base<br /> | Toyota 77175-52020<br /> |-<br /> | A082L6229F <br /> | 44.05c<br /> | 7<br /> | 2005 Elise (Federal)<br /> | Fill Level Vent Valve<br /> | GM 22658723<br /> |-<br /> |}<br /> <br /> ==Exhaust==<br /> {| class="wikitable sortable" style="text-align:center"<br /> |-<br /> ! data-sort-type="number" width="150" | '''Lotus Part Number'''<br /> ! width="100" | Parts Diagram<br /> ! width="50" | Item #<br /> ! width="100" | Application<br /> ! width="300" | Description<br /> ! width="350" | Alternate Supplier/Sources<br /> |-<br /> | A120E6331S<br /> | 40.21<br /> | 1<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Exhaust Manifold, 2ZZ <br /> | Toyota 17141-88601<br /> |-<br /> | A120E6429S <br /> | 40.21<br /> | 2<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Stay, exhaust manifold, 2ZZ<br /> | Toyota 17118-22010<br /> |-<br /> | A120E6343S<br /> | 40.21<br /> | 8<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Gasket, exhaust manifold, 2ZZ<br /> | Toyota 17173-88601<br /> |-<br /> | A120E6332S<br /> | 45.05<br /> | 11<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige 2ZZ<br /> | Heatshield, exhaust manifold, upper<br /> | Toyota 17167-88603<br /> |-<br /> | A120E6333S<br /> | 45.05<br /> | 12<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige 2ZZ<br /> | Heatshield, exhaust manifold, lower<br /> | Toyota 17168-88600<br /> |-<br /> |}<br /> <br /> ==Cooling==<br /> {| class="wikitable sortable" style="text-align:center"<br /> |-<br /> ! data-sort-type="number" width="200" | '''Lotus Part Number'''<br /> ! width="100" | Application<br /> ! width="300" | Description<br /> ! width="350" | Alternate Supplier/Sources<br /> |-<br /> |}<br /> <br /> ==Transmission==<br /> {| class="wikitable sortable" style="text-align:center"<br /> |-<br /> ! data-sort-type="number" width="200" | '''Lotus Part Number'''<br /> ! width="100" | Application<br /> ! width="300" | Description<br /> ! width="350" | Alternate Supplier/Sources<br /> |-<br /> | A120Q6003S<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Clutch Disc, C64 six speed<br /> | Toyota 31250-52100<br /> |-<br /> | A120Q6001S<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Clutch Cover Assembly, C64 six speed <br /> | Toyota 31210-12251<br /> |-<br /> | A120Q6007S<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Clutch Release Bearing Common <br /> | Toyota 31230-12191<br /> |-<br /> | A120F6043S<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Sealing Washer, drain plug<br /> | Toyota 90430-18008<br /> |-<br /> |}<br /> <br /> ==Paint==<br /> {| class="wikitable sortable" style="text-align:center"<br /> |-<br /> ! data-sort-type="number" width="200" | '''Lotus Part Number'''<br /> ! width="100" | Application<br /> ! width="300" | Description<br /> ! width="350" | Alternate Supplier/Sources<br /> |-<br /> |}<br /> <br /> ==Hardware==<br /> {| class="wikitable sortable" style="text-align:center"<br /> |-<br /> ! data-sort-type="number" width="200" | '''Lotus Part Number'''<br /> ! width="100" | Application<br /> ! width="300" | Description<br /> ! width="350" | Alternate Supplier/Sources<br /> |-<br /> |}<br /> <br /> [[Category:Reference]]</div>

Arisutea https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Part_Cross_Reference&diff=13534 Part Cross Reference 2022-07-25T16:02:42Z

<p>Arisutea: /* Engine */</p> <hr /> <div>=S2 Elise/Exige & S3 Elise=<br /> ==Body==<br /> {| class="wikitable sortable" style="text-align:center"<br /> |-<br /> ! data-sort-type="number" width="150" | '''Lotus Part Number'''<br /> ! width="100" | Parts Diagram<br /> ! width="50" | Item #<br /> ! width="100" | Application<br /> ! width="300" | Description<br /> ! width="350" | Alternate Supplier/Sources<br /> |-<br /> | A117M6026F<br /> | 10.17<br /> | 9<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Door Reflector<br /> | <br /> Hella 8RA 002 014-232 <br /> AHLMANN 5170204 <br /> CASE IH 811391-0600<br /> HYMER 1841715 <br /> JCB 703/05800 <br /> KUBOTA 3J02866111 <br /> VOLVO1 130 506 4 <br /> WEIDEMANN 1000098160<br /> |-<br /> |-<br /> | A702A6000F<br /> | 10.31<br /> | 4<br /> | S3 Elise Cup<br /> | Tow Strap<br /> | TRS 23N5010<br /> |-<br /> |}<br /> <br /> ==Glazing and Seals==<br /> {| class="wikitable sortable" style="text-align:center"<br /> |-<br /> ! data-sort-type="number" width="150" | '''Lotus Part Number'''<br /> ! width="100" | Parts Diagram<br /> ! width="50" | Item #<br /> ! width="100" | Application<br /> ! width="300" | Description<br /> ! width="350" | Alternate Supplier/Sources<br /> |-<br /> |}<br /> <br /> ==Exterior Fittings==<br /> {| class="wikitable sortable" style="text-align:center"<br /> |-<br /> ! data-sort-type="number" width="150" | '''Lotus Part Number'''<br /> ! width="100" | Parts Diagram<br /> ! width="50" | Item #<br /> ! width="100" | Application<br /> ! width="300" | Description<br /> ! width="350" | Alternate Supplier/Sources<br /> |-<br /> | B117U0124F <br /> | 12.09<br /> | 1<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Side mirror RH<br /> | Rover CRB10269<br /> |-<br /> | B117U0123F <br /> | 12.09<br /> | 1a<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Side mirror LH<br /> | Rover CRB10270<br /> |-<br /> | B111U0117K<br /> | 12.09<br /> | 3<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Mirror Housing<br /> | Rover 100's and some late Mini Metro<br /> |-<br /> | A111U6046F<br /> | 12.09<br /> | 4<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Mirror Glass<br /> | Rover CRD10012<br /> |-<br /> |}<br /> <br /> ==Seats & Seat Belts==<br /> {| class="wikitable sortable" style="text-align:center"<br /> |-<br /> ! data-sort-type="number" width="150" | '''Lotus Part Number'''<br /> ! width="100" | Parts Diagram<br /> ! width="50" | Item #<br /> ! width="100" | Application<br /> ! width="300" | Description<br /> ! width="350" | Alternate Supplier/Sources<br /> |-<br /> |}<br /> <br /> ==Pedal Box & Fascia==<br /> {| class="wikitable sortable" style="text-align:center"<br /> |-<br /> ! data-sort-type="number" width="150" | '''Lotus Part Number'''<br /> ! width="100" | Parts Diagram<br /> ! width="50" | Item #<br /> ! width="100" | Application<br /> ! width="300" | Description<br /> ! width="350" | Alternate Supplier/Sources<br /> |-<br /> |}<br /> <br /> ==Interior Trim==<br /> {| class="wikitable sortable" style="text-align:center"<br /> |-<br /> ! data-sort-type="number" width="150" | '''Lotus Part Number'''<br /> ! width="100" | Parts Diagram<br /> ! width="50" | Item #<br /> ! width="100" | Application<br /> ! width="300" | Description<br /> ! width="350" | Alternate Supplier/Sources<br /> |-<br /> |}<br /> <br /> ==Electrical==<br /> {| class="wikitable sortable" style="text-align:center"<br /> |-<br /> ! data-sort-type="number" width="150" | '''Lotus Part Number'''<br /> ! width="100" | Parts Diagram<br /> ! width="50" | Item #<br /> ! width="100" | Application<br /> ! width="300" | Description<br /> ! width="350" | Alternate Supplier/Sources<br /> |-<br /> | A100M6048F<br /> | 17.05<br /> | 1<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Column Switch, LH, indicators/dip/flash<br /> | GM 92115270<br /> |-<br /> | A100M6049F<br /> | 17.05<br /> | 2<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Column Switch, RH, windscreen wipe/wash<br /> | GM 90243395<br /> |-<br /> | A117M6064F<br /> | 17.05<br /> | 13<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Switch, window lift<br /> | GM?<br /> |-<br /> | N/A<br /> | 17.06<br /> | 1 & 1a<br /> | S2 Elise<br /> | T4 ECU Connector (ECU soldered in)<br /> | TE 8-1393476-0<br /> |-<br /> | N/A<br /> | 17.06<br /> | 1 & 1a<br /> | S2 Elise<br /> | T4 ECU Connectors (Cables)<br /> |<br /> Large 52 Pin Connector<br /> TE 1393450-5<br /> TE 1393454-9<br /> <br /> Small 28 pin Connector<br /> TE 1393436-4<br /> TE 1393454-5<br /> |-<br /> | N/A<br /> | 17.06<br /> | 1 & 1a<br /> | S2 Elise<br /> | T4 ECU Pins & grommets<br /> |<br /> Regular Pins<br /> TE 2-1411573-1<br /> TE 963530-1<br /> <br /> 4 Wire Pins<br /> TE 1393457-4<br /> TE 1411594-1<br /> |-<br /> | N/A<br /> | 17.06<br /> | 1b-g<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige 06+ Throttle By Wire<br /> | T4e ECU Connector (ECU soldered in)<br /> | <br /> Molex 36638-0002<br /> Molex 36638-0003<br /> |-<br /> | N/A<br /> | 17.06<br /> | 1b-g<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige 06+ Throttle By Wire<br /> | T4e ECU Connectors (Cables)<br /> | <br /> Molex 64320-1311<br /> Molex 64320-1319<br /> |-<br /> | N/A<br /> | 17.06<br /> | 1b-g<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige 06+ Throttle By Wire<br /> | T4e ECU Pins<br /> |<br /> Regular Pins<br /> Molex 64322-1039<br /> <br /> Large Pins<br /> Molex 64323-1029<br /> |-<br /> | A120E6282S<br /> | 17.06<br /> | 3 & 3a<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Oil Control Valve, variable valve lift<br /> | Toyota 15330-22020<br /> |-<br /> | A120E6347S<br /> | 17.06<br /> | 4<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Sensor, camshaft position, 2ZZ <br /> | Toyota 90919-05007<br /> |-<br /> | A120E6376S<br /> | 17.06<br /> | 5<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Sensor, knock control, 2ZZ<br /> | Toyota 90126-A0008<br /> |-<br /> | A120E6348S<br /> | 17.06<br /> | 6<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Sensor, crankshaft position, 2ZZ<br /> | Toyota 90919-05048<br /> |-<br /> | A120E6375S<br /> | 17.06<br /> | 7<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Sensor, engine coolant temperature <br /> | Toyota 89422-35010<br /> |-<br /> | A117E6007F<br /> | 17.06<br /> | 8 & 9<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Sensor, oxygen<br /> | <br /> Bosch 0 258 006 127<br /> Rover MHK 100840<br /> Denso DOX-2017<br /> |-<br /> | A120E6373S<br /> | 17.06<br /> | 10<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Sensor, oil pressure, VVTL, 2ZZ<br /> | Toyota 83530-20030<br /> |-<br /> | A120E6440S<br /> | 17.06<br /> | 11<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Sensor, throttle position, 2ZZ<br /> | Toyota 89452-35020<br /> |-<br /> | A120E6443S<br /> | 17.06<br /> | 12<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Valve, vacuum switching, airbox flap valve<br /> | Toyota <br /> |-<br /> | A120E6299S<br /> | 17.06<br /> | 13<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Sensor, mass air flow<br /> | Toyota 22204-22010<br /> |-<br /> | A120M6010S<br /> | 17.06b<br /> | 2<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Rotary Contact Unit, SIR wheel<br /> | GM 09179297 <br /> |-<br /> | A121B0060F<br /> | 17.06b<br /> | 4<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | SRS Unit<br /> | GM? Opel Astra? <br /> |-<br /> | A082M6644F<br /> | 17.17<br /> | 1<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Interior Lamp<br /> | Citroën Saxo, AX and similar variants, zx, 106 etc.<br /> |-<br /> | A132U6027H<br /> | 17.21<br /> | 23<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Washer Pump<br /> | SAAB 90585761<br /> |-<br /> |}<br /> <br /> ==HVAC==<br /> {| class="wikitable sortable" style="text-align:center"<br /> |-<br /> ! data-sort-type="number" width="150" | '''Lotus Part Number'''<br /> ! width="100" | Parts Diagram<br /> ! width="50" | Item #<br /> ! width="100" | Application<br /> ! width="300" | Description<br /> ! width="350" | Alternate Supplier/Sources<br /> |-<br /> | B117P0025F/B117P0163F<br /> | 18.07a<br /> | 1<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Blower Motor<br /> | SPAL 007-A42-32D<br /> |-<br /> | A117P0122S<br /> | 18.03<br /> | 3<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Expansion Valve<br /> | <br /> Omega 31-31199 <br /> Case 82023542<br /> Jcbcom 983/11152<br /> New Holland 82023542<br /> |-<br /> | A117M6052S<br /> | 18.01 / 18.12<br /> | 2<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Actuator, heater/AC flaps<br /> | Bergstrom 2199069<br /> |-<br /> | A120P0148S <br /> | 18.07a<br /> | 3<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Resistors on the plate<br /> | <br /> Arcol 284-HS50-0.05<br /> Arcol 284-HS50-0.22<br /> Arcol 284-HS50-0.27 <br /> <br /> Note: reccomended to use 284-HS50-0.15 or 284-HS50-0.1 instead of 284-HS50-0.22, factory middle speed and low speed too close together<br /> |-<br /> | A120P6007F<br /> | 18.03<br /> | 2<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | A/C Drier<br /> | <br /> Vintage Air 07321-VUC<br /> or any Generic 3/8" Drier<br /> |-<br /> | A117P0059F<br /> | 18.03<br /> | 27<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Trinary Switch<br /> | <br /> Vintage Air 11076-VUS <br /> -does not come with connectors<br /> |-<br /> | A120E6491S<br /> | 40.23<br /> | 1<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | AC Compressor<br /> | <br /> Denso 447260-7100<br /> 2000-2014 Toyota Corolla (2.0L Diesel, 1.4/1.6L Gas)<br /> |-<br /> |}<br /> <br /> ==Chassis==<br /> {| class="wikitable sortable" style="text-align:center"<br /> |-<br /> ! data-sort-type="number" width="150" | '''Lotus Part Number'''<br /> ! width="100" | Parts Diagram<br /> ! width="50" | Item #<br /> ! width="100" | Application<br /> ! width="300" | Description<br /> ! width="350" | Alternate Supplier/Sources<br /> |-<br /> |}<br /> <br /> ==Suspension==<br /> {| class="wikitable sortable" style="text-align:center"<br /> |-<br /> ! data-sort-type="number" width="150" | '''Lotus Part Number'''<br /> ! width="100" | Parts Diagram<br /> ! width="50" | Item #<br /> ! width="100" | Application<br /> ! width="300" | Description<br /> ! width="350" | Alternate Supplier/Sources<br /> |-<br /> | A120C0007H / B120C0007H <br /> |<br /> |<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Damper, base front<br /> | Bilstein F4-BE3-A626-T0<br /> |-<br /> | A120D0011H / B120D0011H<br /> |<br /> |<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Damper, base rear<br /> | Bilstein F4-BE3-A627-T0<br /> |-<br /> | A117D6005F <br /> |<br /> |<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Hub/Bearing Assembly, with wheel speed sensor<br /> | SKF VKBA3511<br /> |-<br /> | A117D6002F<br /> |<br /> |<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Hub/Bearing Assembly, no sensor<br /> | SKF VKBA3510<br /> |-<br /> |}<br /> <br /> ==Steering==<br /> {| class="wikitable sortable" style="text-align:center"<br /> |-<br /> ! data-sort-type="number" width="150" | '''Lotus Part Number'''<br /> ! width="100" | Parts Diagram<br /> ! width="50" | Item #<br /> ! width="100" | Application<br /> ! width="300" | Description<br /> ! width="350" | Alternate Supplier/Sources<br /> |-<br /> |}<br /> <br /> ==Brakes==<br /> {| class="wikitable sortable" style="text-align:center"<br /> |-<br /> ! data-sort-type="number" width="150" | '''Lotus Part Number'''<br /> ! width="100" | Parts Diagram<br /> ! width="50" | Item #<br /> ! width="100" | Application<br /> ! width="300" | Description<br /> ! width="350" | Alternate Supplier/Sources<br /> |-<br /> |}<br /> <br /> ==Wheels & Tyres==<br /> {| class="wikitable sortable" style="text-align:center"<br /> |-<br /> ! data-sort-type="number" width="150" | '''Lotus Part Number'''<br /> ! width="100" | Parts Diagram<br /> ! width="50" | Item #<br /> ! width="100" | Application<br /> ! width="300" | Description<br /> ! width="350" | Alternate Supplier/Sources<br /> |-<br /> | A704G0001F / A704G0002F / A704G0003F / A704G0004F<br /> |<br /> |<br /> | S3 Elise Cup<br /> | Wheel, Front 16x7.0 Rear 17x8.0 <br /> | Rimstock Pro Forged Superlight<br /> |}<br /> <br /> ==Engine==<br /> {| class="wikitable sortable" style="text-align:center"<br /> |-<br /> ! data-sort-type="number" width="150" | '''Lotus Part Number'''<br /> ! width="100" | Parts Diagram<br /> ! width="50" | Item #<br /> ! width="100" | Application<br /> ! width="300" | Description<br /> ! width="350" | Alternate Supplier/Sources<br /> |-<br /> | A120E6104S <br /> |<br /> |<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Engine, Toyota 2ZZ-GE<br /> | Toyota Celica/Corolla/Matrix/RAV4, Pontiac Vibe, Chevrolet Prizm<br /> |-<br /> | A131E6024S <br /> |<br /> |<br /> | S2 Elise<br /> | Engine, Toyota 1ZZ-FE<br /> | Toyota Celica/Corolla/Matrix, Pontiac Vibe<br /> |-<br /> | A120E6277S<br /> |<br /> |<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Oil Filter, Toyota 2ZZ<br /> | Toyota 90915-03001, 90915-10004, 90915-YZZF1, 17801-YZZ03; TRD PTR43-33010, PTR04-00142<br /> |-<br /> | A120E6498S<br /> |<br /> |<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Water Pump Assembly, 2ZZ<br /> | Toyota 16100-29146<br /> |-<br /> | A120E6461S<br /> |<br /> |<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Washer, Oil Drain Plug<br /> | Toyota 90430-12031<br /> |-<br /> | A120E6315S<br /> |<br /> |<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Thermostat, 2ZZ<br /> | Toyota 90916-A3003<br /> |-<br /> | A120E6314S <br /> |<br /> |<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Thermostat gasket<br /> | Toyota 16325-62010<br /> |-<br /> | A120E6461S<br /> |<br /> |<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Oil Drain plug washer<br /> | Toyota 90430-12031<br /> |-<br /> | A120E6498S <br /> |<br /> |<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Water Pump Assembly, 2ZZ<br /> | Toyota 16100-29146<br /> |-<br /> | A120E6346S <br /> | 40.17<br /> | 1<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Plug Top Coil, 2ZZ<br /> | <br /> Denso 673-1305<br /> Toyota 90919-02238<br /> |-<br /> | A120E6400S <br /> | 40.19<br /> | 1<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Starter Motor, 2ZZ<br /> | <br /> Toyota 28100-22070<br /> Denso 228000-8671<br /> |-<br /> | A120E6119S <br /> | 40.07<br /> | 2<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Gasket, cam cover, 2ZZ<br /> | Toyota 11213-88600<br /> |}<br /> <br /> ==Belts & Pulleys==<br /> {| class="wikitable sortable" style="text-align:center"<br /> |-<br /> ! data-sort-type="number" width="150" | '''Lotus Part Number'''<br /> ! width="100" | Parts Diagram<br /> ! width="50" | Item #<br /> ! width="100" | Application<br /> ! width="300" | Description<br /> ! width="350" | Alternate Supplier/Sources<br /> |-<br /> | A120E6418S<br /> | 41.03<br /> | 1<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Drive Belt, alternator, water pump, 2ZZ<br /> | 6K560<br /> |-<br /> | A120E6416S<br /> | 41.03<br /> | 1a<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Drive Belt, AC compressor, alternator, water pump, 2ZZ<br /> | 6K660<br /> |-<br /> | A128E6008F <br /> | 41.03<br /> | 1b<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Drive Belt, ancilliaries + supercharger, with AC<br /> | 6K760<br /> |-<br /> | A120E6316S<br /> | 41.03<br /> | 2, 3, & 11<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Tensioner, drive belt, 2ZZ <br /> | Toyota 16620-22034<br /> |-<br /> | A120E6198S <br /> | 41.03<br /> | 7<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Pulley, crankshaft to drive belt, 2ZZ<br /> | Toyota 13470-88600<br /> |-<br /> | A120E6301S<br /> | 41.03<br /> | 8<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Pulley, water pump, 2ZZ<br /> | Toyota 16173-88600<br /> |-<br /> | A120E6417S<br /> | 41.03<br /> | 9<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Pulley, alternator<br /> | Toyota 27411-0D010<br /> |-<br /> |}<br /> <br /> ==Induction Systems==<br /> {| class="wikitable sortable" style="text-align:center"<br /> |-<br /> ! data-sort-type="number" width="150" | '''Lotus Part Number'''<br /> ! width="100" | Parts Diagram<br /> ! width="50" | Item #<br /> ! width="100" | Application<br /> ! width="300" | Description<br /> ! width="350" | Alternate Supplier/Sources<br /> |-<br /> | A120E6385S<br /> | 42.01<br /> | 1<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Airbox Assembly Standard<br /> | <br /> Toyota 17705-22170 - Rear Half<br /> Toyota 17701-22111 - Front Half<br /> |-<br /> | A120E6476S<br /> | 42.01<br /> | 1a<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Airbox Sub-assembly Lower, Common<br /> | Toyota 17701-22111<br /> |-<br /> | A127E6002F<br /> | 42.01<br /> | 1b<br /> | S2 Exige Cup<br /> | Airbox Lower + Sandwich Plate, Accessory upgrade <br /> | TRD PTR41-21055 <br /> |-<br /> | A120E6385S<br /> | 42.01<br /> | 3<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Air Filter stock<br /> | Toyota 17801-0D020<br /> |-<br /> | A127E6003F<br /> | 42.01<br /> | 3a<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Air Filter Cup<br /> | Toyota 17801-03010<br /> |-<br /> | A120E6353S<br /> | 42.04<br /> | 1<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Throttle Body<br /> | Toyota 22210-22040<br /> |-<br /> | A120E6377S<br /> | 42.04<br /> | 5<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Idle Air Control Valve (IAC)<br /> | Toyota 22270-C2ZZ<br /> |-<br /> | A120E6489S<br /> | 42.04<br /> | 8<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige 06+ Throttle By Wire <br /> | Throttle Body, electronic control, 2ZZ<br /> | Toyota 22030-22030<br /> |-<br /> | A120E6353S<br /> | 42.07<br /> | 1<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Inlet Manifold/Plenum, alloy, 2ZZ<br /> | Toyota 17109-88604<br /> |-<br /> | A120E6489S<br /> | 42.07<br /> | 1a<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige 06+ Throttle By Wire <br /> | Inlet Manifold/Plenum, alloy, 2ZZ, electronic control, 2ZZ<br /> | Toyota 17109-88605<br /> |-<br /> | A120E6342S<br /> | 42.07<br /> | 13<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Gasket, inlet manifold, 2ZZ<br /> | Toyota 17177-22010<br /> |-<br /> |}<br /> <br /> ==Fuel System==<br /> {| class="wikitable sortable" style="text-align:center"<br /> |-<br /> ! data-sort-type="number" width="150" | '''Lotus Part Number'''<br /> ! data-sort-type="number" width="100" | Parts Diagram<br /> ! data-sort-type="number" width="50" | Item #<br /> ! width="100" | Application<br /> ! width="300" | Description<br /> ! width="350" | Alternate Supplier/Sources<br /> |-<br /> | A132L6032F<br /> | 44.01d<br /> | 14<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Cap, fuel filler Federal<br /> | <br /> Stant 10851<br /> Stant 10521 (locking)<br /> Jaguar C2P5270<br /> |-<br /> | A127L6002F<br /> | 44.03<br /> | 7<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Fuel Pump<br /> | <br /> Toyota 23221-28280<br /> DENSO 951-0001 <br /> |-<br /> | N/A<br /> | 44.03<br /> | N/A<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Fuel Pump to Upper Housing Wire Harness<br /> | Toyota 77785-32010<br /> |-<br /> | A120L6002S<br /> | 44.03<br /> | 7a<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Fuel Pump, Denso high flow<br /> | DENSO 951-0003 <br /> |-<br /> | A120L6007S<br /> | 44.03<br /> | 4<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Filter, tank<br /> | Toyota 23300-23040<br /> |-<br /> | A120L6008S<br /> | 44.03<br /> | 1<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Pipe Plate Assembly<br /> | Toyota 77024-17020<br /> |-<br /> | A120L6001S<br /> | 44.03<br /> | 8<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Filter, suction, pump<br /> | Toyota 23217-23010<br /> |-<br /> | A120E6413S<br /> | 44.03<br /> | 2<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Fuel Pressure Regulator<br /> | Toyota 23280-22010<br /> |-<br /> | A120L6003S<br /> | 44.03<br /> | 9<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Clip, filter to pump<br /> | Toyota 23219-03010 <br /> |-<br /> | A120L6006S<br /> | 44.03<br /> | 10<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Rubber Cushion, pump assy. Supporting<br /> | Toyota 23249-74610<br /> |-<br /> | A120L6004S<br /> | 44.03<br /> | 6<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Spacer, seal to filter<br /> | Toyota 23225-21010<br /> |-<br /> | A120L6005S <br /> | 44.03<br /> | 5<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Seal, pump to filter<br /> | Toyota 23239-21010<br /> |-<br /> | A120L0020S<br /> | 44.03<br /> | 19<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Sender Unit, fuel level<br /> | Toyota 83320-20610<br /> |-<br /> | A120L6014S<br /> | 44.03<br /> | 3<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Sensor, vapour pressure<br /> | Toyota 89461-0C010<br /> |-<br /> | A120L6014S<br /> | 44.03<br /> | 24<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Cap, fuel pump module base<br /> | Toyota 77175-52020<br /> |-<br /> | A082L6229F <br /> | 44.05c<br /> | 7<br /> | 2005 Elise (Federal)<br /> | Fill Level Vent Valve<br /> | GM 22658723<br /> |-<br /> |}<br /> <br /> ==Exhaust==<br /> {| class="wikitable sortable" style="text-align:center"<br /> |-<br /> ! data-sort-type="number" width="150" | '''Lotus Part Number'''<br /> ! width="100" | Parts Diagram<br /> ! width="50" | Item #<br /> ! width="100" | Application<br /> ! width="300" | Description<br /> ! width="350" | Alternate Supplier/Sources<br /> |-<br /> | A120E6331S<br /> | 40.21<br /> | 1<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Exhaust Manifold, 2ZZ <br /> | Toyota 17141-88601<br /> |-<br /> | A120E6429S <br /> | 40.21<br /> | 2<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Stay, exhaust manifold, 2ZZ<br /> | Toyota 17118-22010<br /> |-<br /> | A120E6343S<br /> | 40.21<br /> | 8<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Gasket, exhaust manifold, 2ZZ<br /> | Toyota 17173-88601<br /> |-<br /> | A120E6332S<br /> | 45.05<br /> | 11<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige 2ZZ<br /> | Heatshield, exhaust manifold, upper<br /> | Toyota 17167-88603<br /> |-<br /> | A120E6333S<br /> | 45.05<br /> | 12<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige 2ZZ<br /> | Heatshield, exhaust manifold, lower<br /> | Toyota 17168-88600<br /> |-<br /> |}<br /> <br /> ==Cooling==<br /> {| class="wikitable sortable" style="text-align:center"<br /> |-<br /> ! data-sort-type="number" width="200" | '''Lotus Part Number'''<br /> ! width="100" | Application<br /> ! width="300" | Description<br /> ! width="350" | Alternate Supplier/Sources<br /> |-<br /> |}<br /> <br /> ==Transmission==<br /> {| class="wikitable sortable" style="text-align:center"<br /> |-<br /> ! data-sort-type="number" width="200" | '''Lotus Part Number'''<br /> ! width="100" | Application<br /> ! width="300" | Description<br /> ! width="350" | Alternate Supplier/Sources<br /> |-<br /> | A120Q6003S<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Clutch Disc, C64 six speed<br /> | Toyota 31250-52100<br /> |-<br /> | A120Q6001S<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Clutch Cover Assembly, C64 six speed <br /> | Toyota 31210-12251<br /> |-<br /> | A120Q6007S<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Clutch Release Bearing Common <br /> | Toyota 31230-12191<br /> |-<br /> | A120F6043S<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Sealing Washer, drain plug<br /> | Toyota 90430-18008<br /> |-<br /> |}<br /> <br /> ==Paint==<br /> {| class="wikitable sortable" style="text-align:center"<br /> |-<br /> ! data-sort-type="number" width="200" | '''Lotus Part Number'''<br /> ! width="100" | Application<br /> ! width="300" | Description<br /> ! width="350" | Alternate Supplier/Sources<br /> |-<br /> |}<br /> <br /> ==Hardware==<br /> {| class="wikitable sortable" style="text-align:center"<br /> |-<br /> ! data-sort-type="number" width="200" | '''Lotus Part Number'''<br /> ! width="100" | Application<br /> ! width="300" | Description<br /> ! width="350" | Alternate Supplier/Sources<br /> |-<br /> |}<br /> <br /> [[Category:Reference]]</div>

Arisutea https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Part_Cross_Reference&diff=13533 Part Cross Reference 2022-07-25T13:00:51Z

<p>Arisutea: /* Engine */ Added Gasket, cam cover, 2ZZ</p> <hr /> <div>=S2 Elise/Exige & S3 Elise=<br /> ==Body==<br /> {| class="wikitable sortable" style="text-align:center"<br /> |-<br /> ! data-sort-type="number" width="150" | '''Lotus Part Number'''<br /> ! width="100" | Parts Diagram<br /> ! width="50" | Item #<br /> ! width="100" | Application<br /> ! width="300" | Description<br /> ! width="350" | Alternate Supplier/Sources<br /> |-<br /> | A117M6026F<br /> | 10.17<br /> | 9<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Door Reflector<br /> | <br /> Hella 8RA 002 014-232 <br /> AHLMANN 5170204 <br /> CASE IH 811391-0600<br /> HYMER 1841715 <br /> JCB 703/05800 <br /> KUBOTA 3J02866111 <br /> VOLVO1 130 506 4 <br /> WEIDEMANN 1000098160<br /> |-<br /> |-<br /> | A702A6000F<br /> | 10.31<br /> | 4<br /> | S3 Elise Cup<br /> | Tow Strap<br /> | TRS 23N5010<br /> |-<br /> |}<br /> <br /> ==Glazing and Seals==<br /> {| class="wikitable sortable" style="text-align:center"<br /> |-<br /> ! data-sort-type="number" width="150" | '''Lotus Part Number'''<br /> ! width="100" | Parts Diagram<br /> ! width="50" | Item #<br /> ! width="100" | Application<br /> ! width="300" | Description<br /> ! width="350" | Alternate Supplier/Sources<br /> |-<br /> |}<br /> <br /> ==Exterior Fittings==<br /> {| class="wikitable sortable" style="text-align:center"<br /> |-<br /> ! data-sort-type="number" width="150" | '''Lotus Part Number'''<br /> ! width="100" | Parts Diagram<br /> ! width="50" | Item #<br /> ! width="100" | Application<br /> ! width="300" | Description<br /> ! width="350" | Alternate Supplier/Sources<br /> |-<br /> | B117U0124F <br /> | 12.09<br /> | 1<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Side mirror RH<br /> | Rover CRB10269<br /> |-<br /> | B117U0123F <br /> | 12.09<br /> | 1a<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Side mirror LH<br /> | Rover CRB10270<br /> |-<br /> | B111U0117K<br /> | 12.09<br /> | 3<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Mirror Housing<br /> | Rover 100's and some late Mini Metro<br /> |-<br /> | A111U6046F<br /> | 12.09<br /> | 4<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Mirror Glass<br /> | Rover CRD10012<br /> |-<br /> |}<br /> <br /> ==Seats & Seat Belts==<br /> {| class="wikitable sortable" style="text-align:center"<br /> |-<br /> ! data-sort-type="number" width="150" | '''Lotus Part Number'''<br /> ! width="100" | Parts Diagram<br /> ! width="50" | Item #<br /> ! width="100" | Application<br /> ! width="300" | Description<br /> ! width="350" | Alternate Supplier/Sources<br /> |-<br /> |}<br /> <br /> ==Pedal Box & Fascia==<br /> {| class="wikitable sortable" style="text-align:center"<br /> |-<br /> ! data-sort-type="number" width="150" | '''Lotus Part Number'''<br /> ! width="100" | Parts Diagram<br /> ! width="50" | Item #<br /> ! width="100" | Application<br /> ! width="300" | Description<br /> ! width="350" | Alternate Supplier/Sources<br /> |-<br /> |}<br /> <br /> ==Interior Trim==<br /> {| class="wikitable sortable" style="text-align:center"<br /> |-<br /> ! data-sort-type="number" width="150" | '''Lotus Part Number'''<br /> ! width="100" | Parts Diagram<br /> ! width="50" | Item #<br /> ! width="100" | Application<br /> ! width="300" | Description<br /> ! width="350" | Alternate Supplier/Sources<br /> |-<br /> |}<br /> <br /> ==Electrical==<br /> {| class="wikitable sortable" style="text-align:center"<br /> |-<br /> ! data-sort-type="number" width="150" | '''Lotus Part Number'''<br /> ! width="100" | Parts Diagram<br /> ! width="50" | Item #<br /> ! width="100" | Application<br /> ! width="300" | Description<br /> ! width="350" | Alternate Supplier/Sources<br /> |-<br /> | A100M6048F<br /> | 17.05<br /> | 1<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Column Switch, LH, indicators/dip/flash<br /> | GM 92115270<br /> |-<br /> | A100M6049F<br /> | 17.05<br /> | 2<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Column Switch, RH, windscreen wipe/wash<br /> | GM 90243395<br /> |-<br /> | A117M6064F<br /> | 17.05<br /> | 13<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Switch, window lift<br /> | GM?<br /> |-<br /> | N/A<br /> | 17.06<br /> | 1 & 1a<br /> | S2 Elise<br /> | T4 ECU Connector (ECU soldered in)<br /> | TE 8-1393476-0<br /> |-<br /> | N/A<br /> | 17.06<br /> | 1 & 1a<br /> | S2 Elise<br /> | T4 ECU Connectors (Cables)<br /> |<br /> Large 52 Pin Connector<br /> TE 1393450-5<br /> TE 1393454-9<br /> <br /> Small 28 pin Connector<br /> TE 1393436-4<br /> TE 1393454-5<br /> |-<br /> | N/A<br /> | 17.06<br /> | 1 & 1a<br /> | S2 Elise<br /> | T4 ECU Pins & grommets<br /> |<br /> Regular Pins<br /> TE 2-1411573-1<br /> TE 963530-1<br /> <br /> 4 Wire Pins<br /> TE 1393457-4<br /> TE 1411594-1<br /> |-<br /> | N/A<br /> | 17.06<br /> | 1b-g<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige 06+ Throttle By Wire<br /> | T4e ECU Connector (ECU soldered in)<br /> | <br /> Molex 36638-0002<br /> Molex 36638-0003<br /> |-<br /> | N/A<br /> | 17.06<br /> | 1b-g<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige 06+ Throttle By Wire<br /> | T4e ECU Connectors (Cables)<br /> | <br /> Molex 64320-1311<br /> Molex 64320-1319<br /> |-<br /> | N/A<br /> | 17.06<br /> | 1b-g<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige 06+ Throttle By Wire<br /> | T4e ECU Pins<br /> |<br /> Regular Pins<br /> Molex 64322-1039<br /> <br /> Large Pins<br /> Molex 64323-1029<br /> |-<br /> | A120E6282S<br /> | 17.06<br /> | 3 & 3a<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Oil Control Valve, variable valve lift<br /> | Toyota 15330-22020<br /> |-<br /> | A120E6347S<br /> | 17.06<br /> | 4<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Sensor, camshaft position, 2ZZ <br /> | Toyota 90919-05007<br /> |-<br /> | A120E6376S<br /> | 17.06<br /> | 5<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Sensor, knock control, 2ZZ<br /> | Toyota 90126-A0008<br /> |-<br /> | A120E6348S<br /> | 17.06<br /> | 6<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Sensor, crankshaft position, 2ZZ<br /> | Toyota 90919-05048<br /> |-<br /> | A120E6375S<br /> | 17.06<br /> | 7<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Sensor, engine coolant temperature <br /> | Toyota 89422-35010<br /> |-<br /> | A117E6007F<br /> | 17.06<br /> | 8 & 9<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Sensor, oxygen<br /> | <br /> Bosch 0 258 006 127<br /> Rover MHK 100840<br /> Denso DOX-2017<br /> |-<br /> | A120E6373S<br /> | 17.06<br /> | 10<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Sensor, oil pressure, VVTL, 2ZZ<br /> | Toyota 83530-20030<br /> |-<br /> | A120E6440S<br /> | 17.06<br /> | 11<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Sensor, throttle position, 2ZZ<br /> | Toyota 89452-35020<br /> |-<br /> | A120E6443S<br /> | 17.06<br /> | 12<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Valve, vacuum switching, airbox flap valve<br /> | Toyota <br /> |-<br /> | A120E6299S<br /> | 17.06<br /> | 13<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Sensor, mass air flow<br /> | Toyota 22204-22010<br /> |-<br /> | A120M6010S<br /> | 17.06b<br /> | 2<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Rotary Contact Unit, SIR wheel<br /> | GM 09179297 <br /> |-<br /> | A121B0060F<br /> | 17.06b<br /> | 4<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | SRS Unit<br /> | GM? Opel Astra? <br /> |-<br /> | A082M6644F<br /> | 17.17<br /> | 1<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Interior Lamp<br /> | Citroën Saxo, AX and similar variants, zx, 106 etc.<br /> |-<br /> | A132U6027H<br /> | 17.21<br /> | 23<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Washer Pump<br /> | SAAB 90585761<br /> |-<br /> |}<br /> <br /> ==HVAC==<br /> {| class="wikitable sortable" style="text-align:center"<br /> |-<br /> ! data-sort-type="number" width="150" | '''Lotus Part Number'''<br /> ! width="100" | Parts Diagram<br /> ! width="50" | Item #<br /> ! width="100" | Application<br /> ! width="300" | Description<br /> ! width="350" | Alternate Supplier/Sources<br /> |-<br /> | B117P0025F/B117P0163F<br /> | 18.07a<br /> | 1<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Blower Motor<br /> | SPAL 007-A42-32D<br /> |-<br /> | A117P0122S<br /> | 18.03<br /> | 3<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Expansion Valve<br /> | <br /> Omega 31-31199 <br /> Case 82023542<br /> Jcbcom 983/11152<br /> New Holland 82023542<br /> |-<br /> | A117M6052S<br /> | 18.01 / 18.12<br /> | 2<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Actuator, heater/AC flaps<br /> | Bergstrom 2199069<br /> |-<br /> | A120P0148S <br /> | 18.07a<br /> | 3<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Resistors on the plate<br /> | <br /> Arcol 284-HS50-0.05<br /> Arcol 284-HS50-0.22<br /> Arcol 284-HS50-0.27 <br /> <br /> Note: reccomended to use 284-HS50-0.15 or 284-HS50-0.1 instead of 284-HS50-0.22, factory middle speed and low speed too close together<br /> |-<br /> | A120P6007F<br /> | 18.03<br /> | 2<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | A/C Drier<br /> | <br /> Vintage Air 07321-VUC<br /> or any Generic 3/8" Drier<br /> |-<br /> | A117P0059F<br /> | 18.03<br /> | 27<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Trinary Switch<br /> | <br /> Vintage Air 11076-VUS <br /> -does not come with connectors<br /> |-<br /> | A120E6491S<br /> | 40.23<br /> | 1<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | AC Compressor<br /> | <br /> Denso 447260-7100<br /> 2000-2014 Toyota Corolla (2.0L Diesel, 1.4/1.6L Gas)<br /> |-<br /> |}<br /> <br /> ==Chassis==<br /> {| class="wikitable sortable" style="text-align:center"<br /> |-<br /> ! data-sort-type="number" width="150" | '''Lotus Part Number'''<br /> ! width="100" | Parts Diagram<br /> ! width="50" | Item #<br /> ! width="100" | Application<br /> ! width="300" | Description<br /> ! width="350" | Alternate Supplier/Sources<br /> |-<br /> |}<br /> <br /> ==Suspension==<br /> {| class="wikitable sortable" style="text-align:center"<br /> |-<br /> ! data-sort-type="number" width="150" | '''Lotus Part Number'''<br /> ! width="100" | Parts Diagram<br /> ! width="50" | Item #<br /> ! width="100" | Application<br /> ! width="300" | Description<br /> ! width="350" | Alternate Supplier/Sources<br /> |-<br /> | A120C0007H / B120C0007H <br /> |<br /> |<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Damper, base front<br /> | Bilstein F4-BE3-A626-T0<br /> |-<br /> | A120D0011H / B120D0011H<br /> |<br /> |<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Damper, base rear<br /> | Bilstein F4-BE3-A627-T0<br /> |-<br /> | A117D6005F <br /> |<br /> |<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Hub/Bearing Assembly, with wheel speed sensor<br /> | SKF VKBA3511<br /> |-<br /> | A117D6002F<br /> |<br /> |<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Hub/Bearing Assembly, no sensor<br /> | SKF VKBA3510<br /> |-<br /> |}<br /> <br /> ==Steering==<br /> {| class="wikitable sortable" style="text-align:center"<br /> |-<br /> ! data-sort-type="number" width="150" | '''Lotus Part Number'''<br /> ! width="100" | Parts Diagram<br /> ! width="50" | Item #<br /> ! width="100" | Application<br /> ! width="300" | Description<br /> ! width="350" | Alternate Supplier/Sources<br /> |-<br /> |}<br /> <br /> ==Brakes==<br /> {| class="wikitable sortable" style="text-align:center"<br /> |-<br /> ! data-sort-type="number" width="150" | '''Lotus Part Number'''<br /> ! width="100" | Parts Diagram<br /> ! width="50" | Item #<br /> ! width="100" | Application<br /> ! width="300" | Description<br /> ! width="350" | Alternate Supplier/Sources<br /> |-<br /> |}<br /> <br /> ==Wheels & Tyres==<br /> {| class="wikitable sortable" style="text-align:center"<br /> |-<br /> ! data-sort-type="number" width="150" | '''Lotus Part Number'''<br /> ! width="100" | Parts Diagram<br /> ! width="50" | Item #<br /> ! width="100" | Application<br /> ! width="300" | Description<br /> ! width="350" | Alternate Supplier/Sources<br /> |-<br /> | A704G0001F / A704G0002F / A704G0003F / A704G0004F<br /> |<br /> |<br /> | S3 Elise Cup<br /> | Wheel, Front 16x7.0 Rear 17x8.0 <br /> | Rimstock Pro Forged Superlight<br /> |}<br /> <br /> ==Engine==<br /> {| class="wikitable sortable" style="text-align:center"<br /> |-<br /> ! data-sort-type="number" width="150" | '''Lotus Part Number'''<br /> ! width="100" | Parts Diagram<br /> ! width="50" | Item #<br /> ! width="100" | Application<br /> ! width="300" | Description<br /> ! width="350" | Alternate Supplier/Sources<br /> |-<br /> | A120E6104S <br /> |<br /> |<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Engine, Toyota 2ZZ-GE<br /> | Toyota Celica/Corolla/Matrix/RAV4, Pontiac Vibe, Chevrolet Prizm<br /> |-<br /> | A131E6024S <br /> |<br /> |<br /> | S2 Elise<br /> | Engine, Toyota 1ZZ-FE<br /> | Toyota Celica/Corolla/Matrix, Pontiac Vibe<br /> |-<br /> | A120E6277S<br /> |<br /> |<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Oil Filter, Toyota 2ZZ<br /> | Toyota 90915-03001, 90915-10004, 90915-YZZF1, 17801-YZZ03; TRD PTR43-33010, PTR04-00142<br /> |-<br /> | A120E6498S<br /> |<br /> |<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Water Pump Assembly, 2ZZ<br /> | Toyota 16100-29146<br /> |-<br /> | A120E6461S<br /> |<br /> |<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Washer, Oil Drain Plug<br /> | Toyota 90430-12031<br /> |-<br /> | A120E6315S<br /> |<br /> |<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Thermostat, 2ZZ<br /> | Toyota 90916-A3003<br /> |-<br /> | A120E6314S <br /> |<br /> |<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Thermostat gasket<br /> | Toyota 16325-62010<br /> |-<br /> | A120E6461S<br /> |<br /> |<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Oil Drain plug washer<br /> | Toyota 90430-12031<br /> |-<br /> | A120E6498S <br /> |<br /> |<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Water Pump Assembly, 2ZZ<br /> | Toyota 16100-29146<br /> |-<br /> | A120E6346S <br /> | 40.17<br /> | 1<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Plug Top Coil, 2ZZ<br /> | <br /> Denso 673-1305<br /> Toyota 90919-02238<br /> |-<br /> | A120E6400S <br /> | 40.19<br /> | 1<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Starter Motor, 2ZZ<br /> | <br /> Toyota 28100-22070<br /> Denso 228000-8671<br /> |-<br /> | A120E6119S <br /> | 40.07<br /> | 2<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Gasket, cam cover, 2ZZ<br /> | Toyota 11213-88600<br /> |-}<br /> <br /> ==Belts & Pulleys==<br /> {| class="wikitable sortable" style="text-align:center"<br /> |-<br /> ! data-sort-type="number" width="150" | '''Lotus Part Number'''<br /> ! width="100" | Parts Diagram<br /> ! width="50" | Item #<br /> ! width="100" | Application<br /> ! width="300" | Description<br /> ! width="350" | Alternate Supplier/Sources<br /> |-<br /> | A120E6418S<br /> | 41.03<br /> | 1<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Drive Belt, alternator, water pump, 2ZZ<br /> | 6K560<br /> |-<br /> | A120E6416S<br /> | 41.03<br /> | 1a<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Drive Belt, AC compressor, alternator, water pump, 2ZZ<br /> | 6K660<br /> |-<br /> | A128E6008F <br /> | 41.03<br /> | 1b<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Drive Belt, ancilliaries + supercharger, with AC<br /> | 6K760<br /> |-<br /> | A120E6316S<br /> | 41.03<br /> | 2, 3, & 11<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Tensioner, drive belt, 2ZZ <br /> | Toyota 16620-22034<br /> |-<br /> | A120E6198S <br /> | 41.03<br /> | 7<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Pulley, crankshaft to drive belt, 2ZZ<br /> | Toyota 13470-88600<br /> |-<br /> | A120E6301S<br /> | 41.03<br /> | 8<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Pulley, water pump, 2ZZ<br /> | Toyota 16173-88600<br /> |-<br /> | A120E6417S<br /> | 41.03<br /> | 9<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Pulley, alternator<br /> | Toyota 27411-0D010<br /> |-<br /> |}<br /> <br /> ==Induction Systems==<br /> {| class="wikitable sortable" style="text-align:center"<br /> |-<br /> ! data-sort-type="number" width="150" | '''Lotus Part Number'''<br /> ! width="100" | Parts Diagram<br /> ! width="50" | Item #<br /> ! width="100" | Application<br /> ! width="300" | Description<br /> ! width="350" | Alternate Supplier/Sources<br /> |-<br /> | A120E6385S<br /> | 42.01<br /> | 1<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Airbox Assembly Standard<br /> | <br /> Toyota 17705-22170 - Rear Half<br /> Toyota 17701-22111 - Front Half<br /> |-<br /> | A120E6476S<br /> | 42.01<br /> | 1a<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Airbox Sub-assembly Lower, Common<br /> | Toyota 17701-22111<br /> |-<br /> | A127E6002F<br /> | 42.01<br /> | 1b<br /> | S2 Exige Cup<br /> | Airbox Lower + Sandwich Plate, Accessory upgrade <br /> | TRD PTR41-21055 <br /> |-<br /> | A120E6385S<br /> | 42.01<br /> | 3<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Air Filter stock<br /> | Toyota 17801-0D020<br /> |-<br /> | A127E6003F<br /> | 42.01<br /> | 3a<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Air Filter Cup<br /> | Toyota 17801-03010<br /> |-<br /> | A120E6353S<br /> | 42.04<br /> | 1<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Throttle Body<br /> | Toyota 22210-22040<br /> |-<br /> | A120E6377S<br /> | 42.04<br /> | 5<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Idle Air Control Valve (IAC)<br /> | Toyota 22270-C2ZZ<br /> |-<br /> | A120E6489S<br /> | 42.04<br /> | 8<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige 06+ Throttle By Wire <br /> | Throttle Body, electronic control, 2ZZ<br /> | Toyota 22030-22030<br /> |-<br /> | A120E6353S<br /> | 42.07<br /> | 1<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Inlet Manifold/Plenum, alloy, 2ZZ<br /> | Toyota 17109-88604<br /> |-<br /> | A120E6489S<br /> | 42.07<br /> | 1a<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige 06+ Throttle By Wire <br /> | Inlet Manifold/Plenum, alloy, 2ZZ, electronic control, 2ZZ<br /> | Toyota 17109-88605<br /> |-<br /> | A120E6342S<br /> | 42.07<br /> | 13<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Gasket, inlet manifold, 2ZZ<br /> | Toyota 17177-22010<br /> |-<br /> |}<br /> <br /> ==Fuel System==<br /> {| class="wikitable sortable" style="text-align:center"<br /> |-<br /> ! data-sort-type="number" width="150" | '''Lotus Part Number'''<br /> ! data-sort-type="number" width="100" | Parts Diagram<br /> ! data-sort-type="number" width="50" | Item #<br /> ! width="100" | Application<br /> ! width="300" | Description<br /> ! width="350" | Alternate Supplier/Sources<br /> |-<br /> | A132L6032F<br /> | 44.01d<br /> | 14<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Cap, fuel filler Federal<br /> | <br /> Stant 10851<br /> Stant 10521 (locking)<br /> Jaguar C2P5270<br /> |-<br /> | A127L6002F<br /> | 44.03<br /> | 7<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Fuel Pump<br /> | <br /> Toyota 23221-28280<br /> DENSO 951-0001 <br /> |-<br /> | N/A<br /> | 44.03<br /> | N/A<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Fuel Pump to Upper Housing Wire Harness<br /> | Toyota 77785-32010<br /> |-<br /> | A120L6002S<br /> | 44.03<br /> | 7a<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Fuel Pump, Denso high flow<br /> | DENSO 951-0003 <br /> |-<br /> | A120L6007S<br /> | 44.03<br /> | 4<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Filter, tank<br /> | Toyota 23300-23040<br /> |-<br /> | A120L6008S<br /> | 44.03<br /> | 1<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Pipe Plate Assembly<br /> | Toyota 77024-17020<br /> |-<br /> | A120L6001S<br /> | 44.03<br /> | 8<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Filter, suction, pump<br /> | Toyota 23217-23010<br /> |-<br /> | A120E6413S<br /> | 44.03<br /> | 2<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Fuel Pressure Regulator<br /> | Toyota 23280-22010<br /> |-<br /> | A120L6003S<br /> | 44.03<br /> | 9<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Clip, filter to pump<br /> | Toyota 23219-03010 <br /> |-<br /> | A120L6006S<br /> | 44.03<br /> | 10<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Rubber Cushion, pump assy. Supporting<br /> | Toyota 23249-74610<br /> |-<br /> | A120L6004S<br /> | 44.03<br /> | 6<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Spacer, seal to filter<br /> | Toyota 23225-21010<br /> |-<br /> | A120L6005S <br /> | 44.03<br /> | 5<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Seal, pump to filter<br /> | Toyota 23239-21010<br /> |-<br /> | A120L0020S<br /> | 44.03<br /> | 19<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Sender Unit, fuel level<br /> | Toyota 83320-20610<br /> |-<br /> | A120L6014S<br /> | 44.03<br /> | 3<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Sensor, vapour pressure<br /> | Toyota 89461-0C010<br /> |-<br /> | A120L6014S<br /> | 44.03<br /> | 24<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Cap, fuel pump module base<br /> | Toyota 77175-52020<br /> |-<br /> | A082L6229F <br /> | 44.05c<br /> | 7<br /> | 2005 Elise (Federal)<br /> | Fill Level Vent Valve<br /> | GM 22658723<br /> |-<br /> |}<br /> <br /> ==Exhaust==<br /> {| class="wikitable sortable" style="text-align:center"<br /> |-<br /> ! data-sort-type="number" width="150" | '''Lotus Part Number'''<br /> ! width="100" | Parts Diagram<br /> ! width="50" | Item #<br /> ! width="100" | Application<br /> ! width="300" | Description<br /> ! width="350" | Alternate Supplier/Sources<br /> |-<br /> | A120E6331S<br /> | 40.21<br /> | 1<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Exhaust Manifold, 2ZZ <br /> | Toyota 17141-88601<br /> |-<br /> | A120E6429S <br /> | 40.21<br /> | 2<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Stay, exhaust manifold, 2ZZ<br /> | Toyota 17118-22010<br /> |-<br /> | A120E6343S<br /> | 40.21<br /> | 8<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Gasket, exhaust manifold, 2ZZ<br /> | Toyota 17173-88601<br /> |-<br /> | A120E6332S<br /> | 45.05<br /> | 11<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige 2ZZ<br /> | Heatshield, exhaust manifold, upper<br /> | Toyota 17167-88603<br /> |-<br /> | A120E6333S<br /> | 45.05<br /> | 12<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige 2ZZ<br /> | Heatshield, exhaust manifold, lower<br /> | Toyota 17168-88600<br /> |-<br /> |}<br /> <br /> ==Cooling==<br /> {| class="wikitable sortable" style="text-align:center"<br /> |-<br /> ! data-sort-type="number" width="200" | '''Lotus Part Number'''<br /> ! width="100" | Application<br /> ! width="300" | Description<br /> ! width="350" | Alternate Supplier/Sources<br /> |-<br /> |}<br /> <br /> ==Transmission==<br /> {| class="wikitable sortable" style="text-align:center"<br /> |-<br /> ! data-sort-type="number" width="200" | '''Lotus Part Number'''<br /> ! width="100" | Application<br /> ! width="300" | Description<br /> ! width="350" | Alternate Supplier/Sources<br /> |-<br /> | A120Q6003S<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Clutch Disc, C64 six speed<br /> | Toyota 31250-52100<br /> |-<br /> | A120Q6001S<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Clutch Cover Assembly, C64 six speed <br /> | Toyota 31210-12251<br /> |-<br /> | A120Q6007S<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Clutch Release Bearing Common <br /> | Toyota 31230-12191<br /> |-<br /> | A120F6043S<br /> | S2 Elise/Exige<br /> | Sealing Washer, drain plug<br /> | Toyota 90430-18008<br /> |-<br /> |}<br /> <br /> ==Paint==<br /> {| class="wikitable sortable" style="text-align:center"<br /> |-<br /> ! data-sort-type="number" width="200" | '''Lotus Part Number'''<br /> ! width="100" | Application<br /> ! width="300" | Description<br /> ! width="350" | Alternate Supplier/Sources<br /> |-<br /> |}<br /> <br /> ==Hardware==<br /> {| class="wikitable sortable" style="text-align:center"<br /> |-<br /> ! data-sort-type="number" width="200" | '''Lotus Part Number'''<br /> ! width="100" | Application<br /> ! width="300" | Description<br /> ! width="350" | Alternate Supplier/Sources<br /> |-<br /> |}<br /> <br /> [[Category:Reference]]</div>

Arisutea https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Induction&diff=11564 Induction 2014-08-20T10:19:22Z

<p>Arisutea: /* TRD (Toyota Racing Development) */</p> <hr /> <div>===Piper Cross===<br /> {{Infobox Induction<br /> | name= Rice Burner<br /> | image= Pipercross_rice_burner.jpg<br /> | material= <br /> | price= £208.95<br /> | supplier= Moto-Build<br /> | url=[http://www.moto-build.com/ Click Here]<br /> | notes=This is what we refer to as 'The rice burner' this is the ultimate cold air system for your Elise (or MGF) this features a huge Pipercross trumpeted filter enclosed within a cannister. This filter was originally designed and used on the Australian V8 Holden touring cars! So it has enough capacity for your 1.8 K series! The filter is attached to the throttle body with a silicon hose and the flexible cold air pipe and trumpet picks up air from the wing vent. Never mind all the other cold air kits, we've been there and done them all - this filter will produce the same if not more than any other kit on the market }}<br /> <br /> ===Carbonaire===<br /> {{Infobox Induction<br /> | name= Carbonaire<br /> | image= Elise_carbonaire.jpg<br /> | material= <br /> | price= £144.00<br /> | supplier= Moto-Build<br /> | url=[http://www.moto-build.com/ Click Here]<br /> | notes=Carbonaire cold air induction kit for Mk1 or 2 K series engine, 1.8 or VVC this kit features a silicon connection hose from filter cannister to throttle body, the filter cannister is made from carbon fibre and the filter is a cotton gauze type like a KN, off the front is an expandable alloy cold air intake, this is a genuine cold air filter kit that gives great performance at a realistic price }}<br /> <br /> ===Hurricane===<br /> {{Infobox Induction<br /> | name= Hurricane S1, S2 & 111R<br /> | image= Hurricane.jpg <br /> | material= Cotton <br /> | price= £169.14 <br /> | supplier= Eliseparts or Eliseshop<br /> | url=[http://www.eliseparts.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=413 Eliseparts] or [http://www.elise-shop.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=3&zenid=c0ef99729491b950e307379f0095d6e2 Eliseshop]<br /> | notes= The Hurricane Induction system was originally developed on and for the Lotus Elise.<br /> <br /> It combines the advantages of an open air filter (sports filter) and an airbox. Besides, the system is gas flowed from side air vent. All these combined features result in:<br /> <br /> - Lower flow resistance by using bigger ducting...<br /> - Direct cold air intake..<br /> - Optimised flow, no turbulence..<br /> - Very mature soundtrack<br /> <br /> Using the advantage of the sports filter and the cold air intake, power and torque gain is obvious!<br /> <br /> During the Hurricane airbox development, all components have been optimised by using high-tech aerodynamics systems. Turbulence has been ruled out, which results in a very steady clean and cool air supply.<br /> <br /> [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YAp5pD4JGnc Hurricane Noise 1 on YouTube]<br /> <br /> [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CBiTUgeZrIQ Hurricane Noise 2 on YouTube]<br /> <br /> [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M7dKAraU8SA Hurricane Noise 3 on YouTube]<br /> <br /> [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qK9o-iRR1Cc Hurricane Noise 4 on YouTube]<br /> <br /> }}<br /> <br /> ===How to Clean Your Hurricane===<br /> <br /> It's recommended that induction kits like the hurricane with a cotton filter should be cleaned every 5-6k or every 6 months (more so if you drive in dusty environments)<br /> <br /> 1)Remove bent hose that connects it to the throttle body, this gives you room to work, next remove the big jubilee clip and pull out the green filter.<br /> <br /> 2)Next brush of debris, then soak with cleaner leave it a good 15 mins to work in, then rinse it well from the inside out only<br /> in clean warm water. If required apply more cleaner and do it again.<br /> <br /> 3)Wait for it to dry and then give it a fair but not excessive coat of dust retention spray on oil.<br /> <br /> <br /> 4)Refit reverse of removal.<br /> <br /> Note: Cleaner solution and oil can be purchased from http://www.elise-shop.com and http://www.eliseparts.com or from Halfords - Green Cotton Cleaner kit.<br /> Remember that if the filter does become very dirty or blocked it will affect the performance of you car.<br /> <br /> ===ITG===<br /> {{Infobox Induction<br /> | name= ITG Maxogen S1<br /> | image= S1_ITG_Maxogen.jpg<br /> | material= Foam<br /> | price= £374.83<br /> | supplier= PTP<br /> | url=[http://www.ptp-ltd.co.uk/shop/ProductDetails.aspx?productID=421 Click Here]<br /> | notes= Following years of experience designing induction systems for F1, rally and touring cars at world championship level, itg are now making purpose designed air boxes to form the core of a super efficient air intake system. Attention to detail and huge performance gains are the key to this exceptional system. Based around the remarkable AB65 carbon fibre airbox, we see a much smoother torque curve and a peak power increase of 8bhp at 500 less rpm on this installation. The kit will fit all MK1 Elise (including 111S and Sport 160) and features copper nickel plated mounting bracket, foam air filter spinning, dust retention oil spray, stainless steel fixing screws and an "S" shaped silicon air intake hose. }}<br /> <br /> <br /> {{Infobox Induction<br /> | name= ITG Maxogen S2 Carbon<br /> | image= ITG_Maxogen_S2.jpg<br /> | material= Foam<br /> | price= £374.83 <br /> | supplier= PTP<br /> | url= [http://www.ptp-ltd.co.uk/shop/ProductDetails.aspx?productID=423 Click here]<br /> | notes= Attention to detail and huge performance gains are the key to this exceptional system. Based around the remarkable carbon fibre airbox, we see a much smoother torque curve and a peak power increase of 8 bhp at 500 less rpm on this installation. The kit will fit all Mk2 Lotus Elise models with the K Series engine (including 111S) and features bright silver annodised aluminium mounting bracket, cold air collector hose, stainless steel airbox screws and an 'S' shaped black silicon hose. }}<br /> <br /> <br /> {{Infobox Induction<br /> | name= ITG Maxogen S2 Aluminium<br /> | image= ITG_Maxogen_S2_Alu.jpg<br /> | material= Foam<br /> | price= £284.99<br /> | supplier= PTP<br /> | url= [http://www.ptp-ltd.co.uk/shop/ProductDetails.aspx?productID=881 Click here]<br /> | notes= A Maxogen with an aluminium air box rather than carbon fibre. Suitable for all S2 Elises fitted with the K Series engine, including the 111S, the installation is a snug fit under the bonnet using the ITG Patented RAB65 inline air box, copper nickel plated mounting bracket and air filter spinning, a 90° black silicon hose, complex black dip moulding and stainless screws.<br /> }}<br /> <br /> <br /> {{Infobox Induction<br /> | name= ITG Maxogen 111R and S2 Exige <br /> | image= 111R_and_S2_Exige_ITG_Maxogen.jpg<br /> | material= Foam<br /> | price= £386.58 <br /> | supplier= PTP<br /> | url= [http://www.ptp-ltd.co.uk/shop/ProductDetails.aspx?productID=457 Click here]<br /> | notes= Suitable for the Toyota powered Lotus Elise and Exige (Pre October 2005 cars), this carbon fibre induction system from F1 Manufacturer ITG has much attention to detail spent on it as always. Independant Performance testing has shown a peak increase of 10bhp at the road wheel with massive torque improvements once fitted to a standard production car. Each kit is supplied with easy to follow DIY fitting instructions, performance air filter, 100% carbon air box, dust retention oil spray, cold air hoses and a unique nickel plated mounting braket. Not only does it look good, the engine power/torque increases transform the overall engine performance. A copy of the Power and torque tests can be supplied upon request. }}<br /> <br /> <br /> {{Infobox Induction<br /> | name= ITG Panel Filter S1 & S2<br /> | image= S1_and_S2_ITG_Panel_Filter.jpg<br /> | material= Foam<br /> | price= £35.24<br /> | supplier= PTP<br /> | url= [http://www.ptp-ltd.co.uk/shop/ProductDetails.aspx?productID=433 Click here]<br /> | notes= Suitable for all models of the Mk1 and Mk2 Lotus Elise, this air filter simply fits into the standard air box. Three layers of foam combined with the arresting stickiness of the dust retaining oil gives a high level of filtration to protect the engine from all containments. Long after ordinary filters have blocked up and reduced the engine power Profilter keeps on performing. In normal road use, a Profilter will last at least four times as long as the equivalent standard filter. You will never have to clean a Profilter panel filter – EVER. }}<br /> <br /> <br /> {{Infobox Induction<br /> | name= ITG Panel Filter 111R and S2 Exige<br /> | image= 111R_and_S2_Exige_ITG_Panel_Filter.gif<br /> | material= Foam<br /> | price= £59.93<br /> | supplier= PTP<br /> | url= [http://www.ptp-ltd.co.uk/shop/ProductDetails.aspx?productID=844 Click here]<br /> | notes= The ITG panel filter achives a high level of filteration. This is achived by the three layers of foam combined with the arresting stickiness of the dust retaining oil. In normal road use a Profilter will last at least four times as long as the equivalent standard filter, the performance is unaffected by very large quantities of dirt arrested in the filter. Long after ordinary filters have blocked up and reduced the engine power caused by a loss of air flow into the engine, the Profilter will continue to allow greater air flow through into the engine. This means that the loss of pressure in the Profilter airflow will be exceptionally low. Because of these facts the waste is reduced so Profilter helps the environment as well as the engine. }}<br /> <br /> <br /> {{Infobox Induction<br /> | name= Exige MK1 ITG Air Filter With Backplate<br /> | image= S1_Exige_ITG_Panel_Filter.gif<br /> | material= Foam<br /> | price= £141.00<br /> | supplier= PTP<br /> | url= [http://www.ptp-ltd.co.uk/shop/ProductDetails.aspx?productID=434 Click here]<br /> | notes= This filter and baseplate has been specically designed and developed as an aftermarket performance option to further enhance the Exige's already impressive power unit. The filter is made from a 3 layer foam over a stainless steel mesh cage, this is easily inserted into the existing housing. The red baseplate is then mounted to the throttle body and the housing is easily attached with concealed retained nut locators. The filter has undergone several months worth of extensive on car testing. It allows better airflow throughout the lifetime of the filter. This coupled with an improvement in air filtration over the original item ensures that only clean filtered air arrives into the engine, ensuring that the engine breathes at its optimum - ALL THE TIME. Its easily fitted, produces a marked long term improvement and is easy to clean and re-oil - so now you can just keep on driving. }}<br /> <br /> ===K&N===<br /> {{Infobox Induction<br /> | name= 57i<br /> | image= K&N_57I.gif<br /> | material= <br /> | price= £54.00<br /> | supplier= Brooke Kensington<br /> | url=[http://www.brooke-kensington.co.uk/ppartl5.htm Click Here]<br /> | notes= Enables remote siting of the filter to pick up colder air.Nice induction noise <br /> }}<br /> <br /> {{Infobox Induction<br /> | name= Panel<br /> | image= K&N_Panel.gif<br /> | material= <br /> | price= £35.00<br /> | supplier= Brooke Kensington<br /> | url=[http://www.brooke-kensington.co.uk/ppartl5.htm Click Here]<br /> | notes= }}<br /> <br /> {{Infobox Induction<br /> | name= In Line<br /> | image= K&N_In_Line.gif<br /> | material= <br /> | price= £29.00<br /> | supplier= Brooke Kensington<br /> | url=[http://www.brooke-kensington.co.uk/ppartl5.htm Click Here]<br /> | notes=Attaches direct }}<br /> <br /> ===Racing Cup===<br /> <br /> {{Infobox Induction<br /> | name= S1 Racing Cup Airbox<br /> | image= S1_Moto_Concept_Racing_Cup_Airbox.jpg<br /> | material= <br /> | price= 250 Euros<br /> | supplier= Moto Concept<br /> | url=[http://www.moto-concept.de/en/autos/lotus/elise1/artikel_elise1_detail.php?item_id=15164 Click Here]<br /> | notes= It is finally here: the Racing Cup Air Box for Elise! More performance, more sound and more torque.The MC Racing Cup Air Box stands out because of it’s unique “Twin Air” filter technology. Top quality by using valuable anodized aluminum and a special cotton fabric which is integrated into an extremely elastic plastic tube. Our Air Box is custom made. Our system consists of a computer modulated intake pipe (*the air needed for combustion flows through the intake pipe to the inlet valve) and a special Twin Air Filter and a fittest “70 mm Air Intake tube”.The MC Racing Cup Air Box offers a dynamic performance curve. The Cup Air Box has a exact defined and significantly higher air flow and improved responsiveness, especially in mid range. The torque load increases slightly. Due to a larger volume of cold air, which carries more oxygen, precise combustion is guaranteed. The engine appears more agile. You can count on a 5% increase in power. Installation does not require major technical alterations. Installation takes place onto the original throttle valve openings.The MC Racing Cup Air Box fits into these models:Lotus Elise M111 1.8I K-engine with 88 KW 5500 rev/min., engine 18K4F. Can also be installed into the VVC version.Please note: *some motor sport parts are without certification for road traffic and are without warranty.. }}<br /> <br /> <br /> {{Infobox Induction<br /> | name= S1 Racing Cup Carbon Airbox<br /> | image= S2_Racing_Cup_Airbox.jpg<br /> | material= <br /> | price= 350 Euros<br /> | supplier= Moto Concept<br /> | url=[http://www.moto-concept.de/en/autos/lotus/elise1/artikel_elise1_detail.php?item_id=15166 Click Here]<br /> | notes= Racing Cup Air Box for all Elise! More performance, even with extreme heat emission.Top quality by using valuable anodized aluminum, carbon and a special cotton fabric which is integrated into an precisely calculated carbon tube. Our Air Box is custom made for us. The system consists of a computer modulated intake pipe, a carbon pipe and a special Twin Air Filter.The MC Cup Carbon Air Box offers a dynamic performance curve, even with extreme heat emission from the engineThe Cup Carbon Air Box has a exact defined and significantly higher air flow than the original with significantly improved responsiveness. The torque load increases slightly. Due to a larger volume of cold air, which carries more oxygen, precise combustion is guaranteed. The engine appears more agile. You can count on a sign. increase in power compared to a closed system.Installation does not require major technical alterations. Installation takes place onto the original throttle valve openings.The Moto Concept Air Box fits these models:Lotus Elise M111 1.8I K-engine with 88 KW 5500 rev/min., engine 18K4F. Can also be installed into VVC versions.Please note: *some motor sport parts are without certification for road traffic. }}<br /> <br /> <br /> {{Infobox Induction<br /> | name= S2 Racing Cup Carbon Airbox<br /> | image= S2_Racing_Cup_Airbox.jpg<br /> | material= <br /> | price= 350 Euros<br /> | supplier= Moto Concept<br /> | url=[http://www.moto-concept.de/en/autos/lotus/elise2/artikel_elise2_detail.php?item_id=15165 Click Here]<br /> | notes= Racing Cup Air Box for all Elise! More performance, even with extreme heat emission.Top quality by using valuable anodized aluminum, carbon and a special cotton fabric which is integrated into an precisely modulated carbon tube. Our system consists of a computer modulated intake pipe, a carbon pipe and a special Twin Air Filter.The MC Cup Carbon Air Box offers a dynamic performance curve, even with extreme heat emission from the engineThe Cup Carbon Air Box has a exact defined and significantly higher air flow than the original. The responsiveness and the air flow are significantly improved. The torque load increases slightly. Due to a larger volume of cold air, which carries more oxygen, precise combustion is guarantied. The engine appears more agile. You can count on a sign. increase in power compared to a closed system.Installation does not require major technical alterations. Installation takes place onto the original throttle valve openings.Please note: *some motor sport parts are without certification for road traffic. }}<br /> <br /> <br /> ===TRD (Toyota Racing Development) ===<br /> {{Infobox Induction<br /> | name= S2 (Toyota) TRD Airbox and Filter<br /> | image= Trd-filter.jpg<br /> | material= <br /> | price= £89.94<br /> | supplier= Elise Parts<br /> | url=[http://www.eliseparts.com/products/show/41/1106/trd-airbox-and-filter/ Click Here]<br /> | notes=Genuine Lotus TRD Air Box and Filter, originally designed to increase the performance models of the S2 Exige. Uses a substantially larger filtration area along with a 30% increase in the air inlet induction port. Ideal upgrade for any Supercharged Exige but will also fit the S2 Elise and Exige with a non Supercharged Toyota 2ZZ engine. This is a Sports Filter system and as it improves the flow it will also increase induction sound.<br /> <br /> A replacement filter element is available from [http://www.eliseparts.com/products/show/41/975/trd-sports-air-filter/ Elise Parts]<br /> <br /> Toyota Part Number: 17801-03010 (printed on the side of the filter).<br /> This filter element is used in Toyota Celica (Years: 94-99 with 5SFE / 7AFE engines), Camry (Years: 92-01 with 5SFE I4 or 3VZFE/1MZFE V6 engines) and Lexus RX (Years: 00-03 with V6 engine) and can be purchased from your average Toyota dealer (historically around £20-22), although your dealer may not carry this filter in stock and might have to order it in for you especially (normally next day).<br /> }}<br /> <br /> [[Category:Engine]]<br /> [[Category:Air Induction]]<br /> [[Category:Lotus Elise]]<br /> [[Category:S1]]<br /> [[Category:S2]]<br /> [[Category:S2 Exige]]</div>

Arisutea https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Induction&diff=11563 Induction 2014-08-20T10:18:50Z

<p>Arisutea: /* TRD (Toyota Racing Development) */</p> <hr /> <div>===Piper Cross===<br /> {{Infobox Induction<br /> | name= Rice Burner<br /> | image= Pipercross_rice_burner.jpg<br /> | material= <br /> | price= £208.95<br /> | supplier= Moto-Build<br /> | url=[http://www.moto-build.com/ Click Here]<br /> | notes=This is what we refer to as 'The rice burner' this is the ultimate cold air system for your Elise (or MGF) this features a huge Pipercross trumpeted filter enclosed within a cannister. This filter was originally designed and used on the Australian V8 Holden touring cars! So it has enough capacity for your 1.8 K series! The filter is attached to the throttle body with a silicon hose and the flexible cold air pipe and trumpet picks up air from the wing vent. Never mind all the other cold air kits, we've been there and done them all - this filter will produce the same if not more than any other kit on the market }}<br /> <br /> ===Carbonaire===<br /> {{Infobox Induction<br /> | name= Carbonaire<br /> | image= Elise_carbonaire.jpg<br /> | material= <br /> | price= £144.00<br /> | supplier= Moto-Build<br /> | url=[http://www.moto-build.com/ Click Here]<br /> | notes=Carbonaire cold air induction kit for Mk1 or 2 K series engine, 1.8 or VVC this kit features a silicon connection hose from filter cannister to throttle body, the filter cannister is made from carbon fibre and the filter is a cotton gauze type like a KN, off the front is an expandable alloy cold air intake, this is a genuine cold air filter kit that gives great performance at a realistic price }}<br /> <br /> ===Hurricane===<br /> {{Infobox Induction<br /> | name= Hurricane S1, S2 & 111R<br /> | image= Hurricane.jpg <br /> | material= Cotton <br /> | price= £169.14 <br /> | supplier= Eliseparts or Eliseshop<br /> | url=[http://www.eliseparts.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=413 Eliseparts] or [http://www.elise-shop.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=3&zenid=c0ef99729491b950e307379f0095d6e2 Eliseshop]<br /> | notes= The Hurricane Induction system was originally developed on and for the Lotus Elise.<br /> <br /> It combines the advantages of an open air filter (sports filter) and an airbox. Besides, the system is gas flowed from side air vent. All these combined features result in:<br /> <br /> - Lower flow resistance by using bigger ducting...<br /> - Direct cold air intake..<br /> - Optimised flow, no turbulence..<br /> - Very mature soundtrack<br /> <br /> Using the advantage of the sports filter and the cold air intake, power and torque gain is obvious!<br /> <br /> During the Hurricane airbox development, all components have been optimised by using high-tech aerodynamics systems. Turbulence has been ruled out, which results in a very steady clean and cool air supply.<br /> <br /> [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YAp5pD4JGnc Hurricane Noise 1 on YouTube]<br /> <br /> [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CBiTUgeZrIQ Hurricane Noise 2 on YouTube]<br /> <br /> [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M7dKAraU8SA Hurricane Noise 3 on YouTube]<br /> <br /> [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qK9o-iRR1Cc Hurricane Noise 4 on YouTube]<br /> <br /> }}<br /> <br /> ===How to Clean Your Hurricane===<br /> <br /> It's recommended that induction kits like the hurricane with a cotton filter should be cleaned every 5-6k or every 6 months (more so if you drive in dusty environments)<br /> <br /> 1)Remove bent hose that connects it to the throttle body, this gives you room to work, next remove the big jubilee clip and pull out the green filter.<br /> <br /> 2)Next brush of debris, then soak with cleaner leave it a good 15 mins to work in, then rinse it well from the inside out only<br /> in clean warm water. If required apply more cleaner and do it again.<br /> <br /> 3)Wait for it to dry and then give it a fair but not excessive coat of dust retention spray on oil.<br /> <br /> <br /> 4)Refit reverse of removal.<br /> <br /> Note: Cleaner solution and oil can be purchased from http://www.elise-shop.com and http://www.eliseparts.com or from Halfords - Green Cotton Cleaner kit.<br /> Remember that if the filter does become very dirty or blocked it will affect the performance of you car.<br /> <br /> ===ITG===<br /> {{Infobox Induction<br /> | name= ITG Maxogen S1<br /> | image= S1_ITG_Maxogen.jpg<br /> | material= Foam<br /> | price= £374.83<br /> | supplier= PTP<br /> | url=[http://www.ptp-ltd.co.uk/shop/ProductDetails.aspx?productID=421 Click Here]<br /> | notes= Following years of experience designing induction systems for F1, rally and touring cars at world championship level, itg are now making purpose designed air boxes to form the core of a super efficient air intake system. Attention to detail and huge performance gains are the key to this exceptional system. Based around the remarkable AB65 carbon fibre airbox, we see a much smoother torque curve and a peak power increase of 8bhp at 500 less rpm on this installation. The kit will fit all MK1 Elise (including 111S and Sport 160) and features copper nickel plated mounting bracket, foam air filter spinning, dust retention oil spray, stainless steel fixing screws and an "S" shaped silicon air intake hose. }}<br /> <br /> <br /> {{Infobox Induction<br /> | name= ITG Maxogen S2 Carbon<br /> | image= ITG_Maxogen_S2.jpg<br /> | material= Foam<br /> | price= £374.83 <br /> | supplier= PTP<br /> | url= [http://www.ptp-ltd.co.uk/shop/ProductDetails.aspx?productID=423 Click here]<br /> | notes= Attention to detail and huge performance gains are the key to this exceptional system. Based around the remarkable carbon fibre airbox, we see a much smoother torque curve and a peak power increase of 8 bhp at 500 less rpm on this installation. The kit will fit all Mk2 Lotus Elise models with the K Series engine (including 111S) and features bright silver annodised aluminium mounting bracket, cold air collector hose, stainless steel airbox screws and an 'S' shaped black silicon hose. }}<br /> <br /> <br /> {{Infobox Induction<br /> | name= ITG Maxogen S2 Aluminium<br /> | image= ITG_Maxogen_S2_Alu.jpg<br /> | material= Foam<br /> | price= £284.99<br /> | supplier= PTP<br /> | url= [http://www.ptp-ltd.co.uk/shop/ProductDetails.aspx?productID=881 Click here]<br /> | notes= A Maxogen with an aluminium air box rather than carbon fibre. Suitable for all S2 Elises fitted with the K Series engine, including the 111S, the installation is a snug fit under the bonnet using the ITG Patented RAB65 inline air box, copper nickel plated mounting bracket and air filter spinning, a 90° black silicon hose, complex black dip moulding and stainless screws.<br /> }}<br /> <br /> <br /> {{Infobox Induction<br /> | name= ITG Maxogen 111R and S2 Exige <br /> | image= 111R_and_S2_Exige_ITG_Maxogen.jpg<br /> | material= Foam<br /> | price= £386.58 <br /> | supplier= PTP<br /> | url= [http://www.ptp-ltd.co.uk/shop/ProductDetails.aspx?productID=457 Click here]<br /> | notes= Suitable for the Toyota powered Lotus Elise and Exige (Pre October 2005 cars), this carbon fibre induction system from F1 Manufacturer ITG has much attention to detail spent on it as always. Independant Performance testing has shown a peak increase of 10bhp at the road wheel with massive torque improvements once fitted to a standard production car. Each kit is supplied with easy to follow DIY fitting instructions, performance air filter, 100% carbon air box, dust retention oil spray, cold air hoses and a unique nickel plated mounting braket. Not only does it look good, the engine power/torque increases transform the overall engine performance. A copy of the Power and torque tests can be supplied upon request. }}<br /> <br /> <br /> {{Infobox Induction<br /> | name= ITG Panel Filter S1 & S2<br /> | image= S1_and_S2_ITG_Panel_Filter.jpg<br /> | material= Foam<br /> | price= £35.24<br /> | supplier= PTP<br /> | url= [http://www.ptp-ltd.co.uk/shop/ProductDetails.aspx?productID=433 Click here]<br /> | notes= Suitable for all models of the Mk1 and Mk2 Lotus Elise, this air filter simply fits into the standard air box. Three layers of foam combined with the arresting stickiness of the dust retaining oil gives a high level of filtration to protect the engine from all containments. Long after ordinary filters have blocked up and reduced the engine power Profilter keeps on performing. In normal road use, a Profilter will last at least four times as long as the equivalent standard filter. You will never have to clean a Profilter panel filter – EVER. }}<br /> <br /> <br /> {{Infobox Induction<br /> | name= ITG Panel Filter 111R and S2 Exige<br /> | image= 111R_and_S2_Exige_ITG_Panel_Filter.gif<br /> | material= Foam<br /> | price= £59.93<br /> | supplier= PTP<br /> | url= [http://www.ptp-ltd.co.uk/shop/ProductDetails.aspx?productID=844 Click here]<br /> | notes= The ITG panel filter achives a high level of filteration. This is achived by the three layers of foam combined with the arresting stickiness of the dust retaining oil. In normal road use a Profilter will last at least four times as long as the equivalent standard filter, the performance is unaffected by very large quantities of dirt arrested in the filter. Long after ordinary filters have blocked up and reduced the engine power caused by a loss of air flow into the engine, the Profilter will continue to allow greater air flow through into the engine. This means that the loss of pressure in the Profilter airflow will be exceptionally low. Because of these facts the waste is reduced so Profilter helps the environment as well as the engine. }}<br /> <br /> <br /> {{Infobox Induction<br /> | name= Exige MK1 ITG Air Filter With Backplate<br /> | image= S1_Exige_ITG_Panel_Filter.gif<br /> | material= Foam<br /> | price= £141.00<br /> | supplier= PTP<br /> | url= [http://www.ptp-ltd.co.uk/shop/ProductDetails.aspx?productID=434 Click here]<br /> | notes= This filter and baseplate has been specically designed and developed as an aftermarket performance option to further enhance the Exige's already impressive power unit. The filter is made from a 3 layer foam over a stainless steel mesh cage, this is easily inserted into the existing housing. The red baseplate is then mounted to the throttle body and the housing is easily attached with concealed retained nut locators. The filter has undergone several months worth of extensive on car testing. It allows better airflow throughout the lifetime of the filter. This coupled with an improvement in air filtration over the original item ensures that only clean filtered air arrives into the engine, ensuring that the engine breathes at its optimum - ALL THE TIME. Its easily fitted, produces a marked long term improvement and is easy to clean and re-oil - so now you can just keep on driving. }}<br /> <br /> ===K&N===<br /> {{Infobox Induction<br /> | name= 57i<br /> | image= K&N_57I.gif<br /> | material= <br /> | price= £54.00<br /> | supplier= Brooke Kensington<br /> | url=[http://www.brooke-kensington.co.uk/ppartl5.htm Click Here]<br /> | notes= Enables remote siting of the filter to pick up colder air.Nice induction noise <br /> }}<br /> <br /> {{Infobox Induction<br /> | name= Panel<br /> | image= K&N_Panel.gif<br /> | material= <br /> | price= £35.00<br /> | supplier= Brooke Kensington<br /> | url=[http://www.brooke-kensington.co.uk/ppartl5.htm Click Here]<br /> | notes= }}<br /> <br /> {{Infobox Induction<br /> | name= In Line<br /> | image= K&N_In_Line.gif<br /> | material= <br /> | price= £29.00<br /> | supplier= Brooke Kensington<br /> | url=[http://www.brooke-kensington.co.uk/ppartl5.htm Click Here]<br /> | notes=Attaches direct }}<br /> <br /> ===Racing Cup===<br /> <br /> {{Infobox Induction<br /> | name= S1 Racing Cup Airbox<br /> | image= S1_Moto_Concept_Racing_Cup_Airbox.jpg<br /> | material= <br /> | price= 250 Euros<br /> | supplier= Moto Concept<br /> | url=[http://www.moto-concept.de/en/autos/lotus/elise1/artikel_elise1_detail.php?item_id=15164 Click Here]<br /> | notes= It is finally here: the Racing Cup Air Box for Elise! More performance, more sound and more torque.The MC Racing Cup Air Box stands out because of it’s unique “Twin Air” filter technology. Top quality by using valuable anodized aluminum and a special cotton fabric which is integrated into an extremely elastic plastic tube. Our Air Box is custom made. Our system consists of a computer modulated intake pipe (*the air needed for combustion flows through the intake pipe to the inlet valve) and a special Twin Air Filter and a fittest “70 mm Air Intake tube”.The MC Racing Cup Air Box offers a dynamic performance curve. The Cup Air Box has a exact defined and significantly higher air flow and improved responsiveness, especially in mid range. The torque load increases slightly. Due to a larger volume of cold air, which carries more oxygen, precise combustion is guaranteed. The engine appears more agile. You can count on a 5% increase in power. Installation does not require major technical alterations. Installation takes place onto the original throttle valve openings.The MC Racing Cup Air Box fits into these models:Lotus Elise M111 1.8I K-engine with 88 KW 5500 rev/min., engine 18K4F. Can also be installed into the VVC version.Please note: *some motor sport parts are without certification for road traffic and are without warranty.. }}<br /> <br /> <br /> {{Infobox Induction<br /> | name= S1 Racing Cup Carbon Airbox<br /> | image= S2_Racing_Cup_Airbox.jpg<br /> | material= <br /> | price= 350 Euros<br /> | supplier= Moto Concept<br /> | url=[http://www.moto-concept.de/en/autos/lotus/elise1/artikel_elise1_detail.php?item_id=15166 Click Here]<br /> | notes= Racing Cup Air Box for all Elise! More performance, even with extreme heat emission.Top quality by using valuable anodized aluminum, carbon and a special cotton fabric which is integrated into an precisely calculated carbon tube. Our Air Box is custom made for us. The system consists of a computer modulated intake pipe, a carbon pipe and a special Twin Air Filter.The MC Cup Carbon Air Box offers a dynamic performance curve, even with extreme heat emission from the engineThe Cup Carbon Air Box has a exact defined and significantly higher air flow than the original with significantly improved responsiveness. The torque load increases slightly. Due to a larger volume of cold air, which carries more oxygen, precise combustion is guaranteed. The engine appears more agile. You can count on a sign. increase in power compared to a closed system.Installation does not require major technical alterations. Installation takes place onto the original throttle valve openings.The Moto Concept Air Box fits these models:Lotus Elise M111 1.8I K-engine with 88 KW 5500 rev/min., engine 18K4F. Can also be installed into VVC versions.Please note: *some motor sport parts are without certification for road traffic. }}<br /> <br /> <br /> {{Infobox Induction<br /> | name= S2 Racing Cup Carbon Airbox<br /> | image= S2_Racing_Cup_Airbox.jpg<br /> | material= <br /> | price= 350 Euros<br /> | supplier= Moto Concept<br /> | url=[http://www.moto-concept.de/en/autos/lotus/elise2/artikel_elise2_detail.php?item_id=15165 Click Here]<br /> | notes= Racing Cup Air Box for all Elise! More performance, even with extreme heat emission.Top quality by using valuable anodized aluminum, carbon and a special cotton fabric which is integrated into an precisely modulated carbon tube. Our system consists of a computer modulated intake pipe, a carbon pipe and a special Twin Air Filter.The MC Cup Carbon Air Box offers a dynamic performance curve, even with extreme heat emission from the engineThe Cup Carbon Air Box has a exact defined and significantly higher air flow than the original. The responsiveness and the air flow are significantly improved. The torque load increases slightly. Due to a larger volume of cold air, which carries more oxygen, precise combustion is guarantied. The engine appears more agile. You can count on a sign. increase in power compared to a closed system.Installation does not require major technical alterations. Installation takes place onto the original throttle valve openings.Please note: *some motor sport parts are without certification for road traffic. }}<br /> <br /> <br /> ===TRD (Toyota Racing Development) ===<br /> {{Infobox Induction<br /> | name= S2 (Toyota) TRD Airbox and Filter<br /> | image= Trd-filter.jpg<br /> | material= <br /> | price= £89.94<br /> | supplier= Elise Parts<br /> | url=[http://www.eliseparts.com/products/show/41/1106/trd-airbox-and-filter/ Click Here]<br /> | notes=Genuine Lotus TRD Air Box and Filter, originally designed to increase the performance models of the S2 Exige. Uses a substantially larger filtration area along with a 30% increase in the air inlet induction port. Ideal upgrade for any Supercharged Exige but will also fit the S2 Elise and Exige with a non Supercharged Toyota 2ZZ engine. This is a Sports Filter system and as it improves the flow it will also increase induction sound.<br /> <br /> A replacement filter element is available from [http://www.eliseparts.com/products/show/41/975/trd-sports-air-filter/ Elise Parts]<br /> <br /> Toyota Part Number: 17801-03010.<br /> This filter element is used in Toyota Celica (Years: 94-99 with 5SFE / 7AFE engines), Camry (Years: 92-01 with 5SFE I4 or 3VZFE/1MZFE V6 engines) and Lexus RX (Years: 00-03 with V6 engine) and can be purchased from your average Toyota dealer (historically around £20-22), although your dealer may not carry this filter in stock and might have to order it in for you especially (normally next day).<br /> }}<br /> <br /> [[Category:Engine]]<br /> [[Category:Air Induction]]<br /> [[Category:Lotus Elise]]<br /> [[Category:S1]]<br /> [[Category:S2]]<br /> [[Category:S2 Exige]]</div>

Arisutea https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Induction&diff=11562 Induction 2014-08-20T10:17:47Z

<p>Arisutea: /* TRD (Toyota Racing Development) */</p> <hr /> <div>===Piper Cross===<br /> {{Infobox Induction<br /> | name= Rice Burner<br /> | image= Pipercross_rice_burner.jpg<br /> | material= <br /> | price= £208.95<br /> | supplier= Moto-Build<br /> | url=[http://www.moto-build.com/ Click Here]<br /> | notes=This is what we refer to as 'The rice burner' this is the ultimate cold air system for your Elise (or MGF) this features a huge Pipercross trumpeted filter enclosed within a cannister. This filter was originally designed and used on the Australian V8 Holden touring cars! So it has enough capacity for your 1.8 K series! The filter is attached to the throttle body with a silicon hose and the flexible cold air pipe and trumpet picks up air from the wing vent. Never mind all the other cold air kits, we've been there and done them all - this filter will produce the same if not more than any other kit on the market }}<br /> <br /> ===Carbonaire===<br /> {{Infobox Induction<br /> | name= Carbonaire<br /> | image= Elise_carbonaire.jpg<br /> | material= <br /> | price= £144.00<br /> | supplier= Moto-Build<br /> | url=[http://www.moto-build.com/ Click Here]<br /> | notes=Carbonaire cold air induction kit for Mk1 or 2 K series engine, 1.8 or VVC this kit features a silicon connection hose from filter cannister to throttle body, the filter cannister is made from carbon fibre and the filter is a cotton gauze type like a KN, off the front is an expandable alloy cold air intake, this is a genuine cold air filter kit that gives great performance at a realistic price }}<br /> <br /> ===Hurricane===<br /> {{Infobox Induction<br /> | name= Hurricane S1, S2 & 111R<br /> | image= Hurricane.jpg <br /> | material= Cotton <br /> | price= £169.14 <br /> | supplier= Eliseparts or Eliseshop<br /> | url=[http://www.eliseparts.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=413 Eliseparts] or [http://www.elise-shop.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=3&zenid=c0ef99729491b950e307379f0095d6e2 Eliseshop]<br /> | notes= The Hurricane Induction system was originally developed on and for the Lotus Elise.<br /> <br /> It combines the advantages of an open air filter (sports filter) and an airbox. Besides, the system is gas flowed from side air vent. All these combined features result in:<br /> <br /> - Lower flow resistance by using bigger ducting...<br /> - Direct cold air intake..<br /> - Optimised flow, no turbulence..<br /> - Very mature soundtrack<br /> <br /> Using the advantage of the sports filter and the cold air intake, power and torque gain is obvious!<br /> <br /> During the Hurricane airbox development, all components have been optimised by using high-tech aerodynamics systems. Turbulence has been ruled out, which results in a very steady clean and cool air supply.<br /> <br /> [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YAp5pD4JGnc Hurricane Noise 1 on YouTube]<br /> <br /> [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CBiTUgeZrIQ Hurricane Noise 2 on YouTube]<br /> <br /> [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M7dKAraU8SA Hurricane Noise 3 on YouTube]<br /> <br /> [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qK9o-iRR1Cc Hurricane Noise 4 on YouTube]<br /> <br /> }}<br /> <br /> ===How to Clean Your Hurricane===<br /> <br /> It's recommended that induction kits like the hurricane with a cotton filter should be cleaned every 5-6k or every 6 months (more so if you drive in dusty environments)<br /> <br /> 1)Remove bent hose that connects it to the throttle body, this gives you room to work, next remove the big jubilee clip and pull out the green filter.<br /> <br /> 2)Next brush of debris, then soak with cleaner leave it a good 15 mins to work in, then rinse it well from the inside out only<br /> in clean warm water. If required apply more cleaner and do it again.<br /> <br /> 3)Wait for it to dry and then give it a fair but not excessive coat of dust retention spray on oil.<br /> <br /> <br /> 4)Refit reverse of removal.<br /> <br /> Note: Cleaner solution and oil can be purchased from http://www.elise-shop.com and http://www.eliseparts.com or from Halfords - Green Cotton Cleaner kit.<br /> Remember that if the filter does become very dirty or blocked it will affect the performance of you car.<br /> <br /> ===ITG===<br /> {{Infobox Induction<br /> | name= ITG Maxogen S1<br /> | image= S1_ITG_Maxogen.jpg<br /> | material= Foam<br /> | price= £374.83<br /> | supplier= PTP<br /> | url=[http://www.ptp-ltd.co.uk/shop/ProductDetails.aspx?productID=421 Click Here]<br /> | notes= Following years of experience designing induction systems for F1, rally and touring cars at world championship level, itg are now making purpose designed air boxes to form the core of a super efficient air intake system. Attention to detail and huge performance gains are the key to this exceptional system. Based around the remarkable AB65 carbon fibre airbox, we see a much smoother torque curve and a peak power increase of 8bhp at 500 less rpm on this installation. The kit will fit all MK1 Elise (including 111S and Sport 160) and features copper nickel plated mounting bracket, foam air filter spinning, dust retention oil spray, stainless steel fixing screws and an "S" shaped silicon air intake hose. }}<br /> <br /> <br /> {{Infobox Induction<br /> | name= ITG Maxogen S2 Carbon<br /> | image= ITG_Maxogen_S2.jpg<br /> | material= Foam<br /> | price= £374.83 <br /> | supplier= PTP<br /> | url= [http://www.ptp-ltd.co.uk/shop/ProductDetails.aspx?productID=423 Click here]<br /> | notes= Attention to detail and huge performance gains are the key to this exceptional system. Based around the remarkable carbon fibre airbox, we see a much smoother torque curve and a peak power increase of 8 bhp at 500 less rpm on this installation. The kit will fit all Mk2 Lotus Elise models with the K Series engine (including 111S) and features bright silver annodised aluminium mounting bracket, cold air collector hose, stainless steel airbox screws and an 'S' shaped black silicon hose. }}<br /> <br /> <br /> {{Infobox Induction<br /> | name= ITG Maxogen S2 Aluminium<br /> | image= ITG_Maxogen_S2_Alu.jpg<br /> | material= Foam<br /> | price= £284.99<br /> | supplier= PTP<br /> | url= [http://www.ptp-ltd.co.uk/shop/ProductDetails.aspx?productID=881 Click here]<br /> | notes= A Maxogen with an aluminium air box rather than carbon fibre. Suitable for all S2 Elises fitted with the K Series engine, including the 111S, the installation is a snug fit under the bonnet using the ITG Patented RAB65 inline air box, copper nickel plated mounting bracket and air filter spinning, a 90° black silicon hose, complex black dip moulding and stainless screws.<br /> }}<br /> <br /> <br /> {{Infobox Induction<br /> | name= ITG Maxogen 111R and S2 Exige <br /> | image= 111R_and_S2_Exige_ITG_Maxogen.jpg<br /> | material= Foam<br /> | price= £386.58 <br /> | supplier= PTP<br /> | url= [http://www.ptp-ltd.co.uk/shop/ProductDetails.aspx?productID=457 Click here]<br /> | notes= Suitable for the Toyota powered Lotus Elise and Exige (Pre October 2005 cars), this carbon fibre induction system from F1 Manufacturer ITG has much attention to detail spent on it as always. Independant Performance testing has shown a peak increase of 10bhp at the road wheel with massive torque improvements once fitted to a standard production car. Each kit is supplied with easy to follow DIY fitting instructions, performance air filter, 100% carbon air box, dust retention oil spray, cold air hoses and a unique nickel plated mounting braket. Not only does it look good, the engine power/torque increases transform the overall engine performance. A copy of the Power and torque tests can be supplied upon request. }}<br /> <br /> <br /> {{Infobox Induction<br /> | name= ITG Panel Filter S1 & S2<br /> | image= S1_and_S2_ITG_Panel_Filter.jpg<br /> | material= Foam<br /> | price= £35.24<br /> | supplier= PTP<br /> | url= [http://www.ptp-ltd.co.uk/shop/ProductDetails.aspx?productID=433 Click here]<br /> | notes= Suitable for all models of the Mk1 and Mk2 Lotus Elise, this air filter simply fits into the standard air box. Three layers of foam combined with the arresting stickiness of the dust retaining oil gives a high level of filtration to protect the engine from all containments. Long after ordinary filters have blocked up and reduced the engine power Profilter keeps on performing. In normal road use, a Profilter will last at least four times as long as the equivalent standard filter. You will never have to clean a Profilter panel filter – EVER. }}<br /> <br /> <br /> {{Infobox Induction<br /> | name= ITG Panel Filter 111R and S2 Exige<br /> | image= 111R_and_S2_Exige_ITG_Panel_Filter.gif<br /> | material= Foam<br /> | price= £59.93<br /> | supplier= PTP<br /> | url= [http://www.ptp-ltd.co.uk/shop/ProductDetails.aspx?productID=844 Click here]<br /> | notes= The ITG panel filter achives a high level of filteration. This is achived by the three layers of foam combined with the arresting stickiness of the dust retaining oil. In normal road use a Profilter will last at least four times as long as the equivalent standard filter, the performance is unaffected by very large quantities of dirt arrested in the filter. Long after ordinary filters have blocked up and reduced the engine power caused by a loss of air flow into the engine, the Profilter will continue to allow greater air flow through into the engine. This means that the loss of pressure in the Profilter airflow will be exceptionally low. Because of these facts the waste is reduced so Profilter helps the environment as well as the engine. }}<br /> <br /> <br /> {{Infobox Induction<br /> | name= Exige MK1 ITG Air Filter With Backplate<br /> | image= S1_Exige_ITG_Panel_Filter.gif<br /> | material= Foam<br /> | price= £141.00<br /> | supplier= PTP<br /> | url= [http://www.ptp-ltd.co.uk/shop/ProductDetails.aspx?productID=434 Click here]<br /> | notes= This filter and baseplate has been specically designed and developed as an aftermarket performance option to further enhance the Exige's already impressive power unit. The filter is made from a 3 layer foam over a stainless steel mesh cage, this is easily inserted into the existing housing. The red baseplate is then mounted to the throttle body and the housing is easily attached with concealed retained nut locators. The filter has undergone several months worth of extensive on car testing. It allows better airflow throughout the lifetime of the filter. This coupled with an improvement in air filtration over the original item ensures that only clean filtered air arrives into the engine, ensuring that the engine breathes at its optimum - ALL THE TIME. Its easily fitted, produces a marked long term improvement and is easy to clean and re-oil - so now you can just keep on driving. }}<br /> <br /> ===K&N===<br /> {{Infobox Induction<br /> | name= 57i<br /> | image= K&N_57I.gif<br /> | material= <br /> | price= £54.00<br /> | supplier= Brooke Kensington<br /> | url=[http://www.brooke-kensington.co.uk/ppartl5.htm Click Here]<br /> | notes= Enables remote siting of the filter to pick up colder air.Nice induction noise <br /> }}<br /> <br /> {{Infobox Induction<br /> | name= Panel<br /> | image= K&N_Panel.gif<br /> | material= <br /> | price= £35.00<br /> | supplier= Brooke Kensington<br /> | url=[http://www.brooke-kensington.co.uk/ppartl5.htm Click Here]<br /> | notes= }}<br /> <br /> {{Infobox Induction<br /> | name= In Line<br /> | image= K&N_In_Line.gif<br /> | material= <br /> | price= £29.00<br /> | supplier= Brooke Kensington<br /> | url=[http://www.brooke-kensington.co.uk/ppartl5.htm Click Here]<br /> | notes=Attaches direct }}<br /> <br /> ===Racing Cup===<br /> <br /> {{Infobox Induction<br /> | name= S1 Racing Cup Airbox<br /> | image= S1_Moto_Concept_Racing_Cup_Airbox.jpg<br /> | material= <br /> | price= 250 Euros<br /> | supplier= Moto Concept<br /> | url=[http://www.moto-concept.de/en/autos/lotus/elise1/artikel_elise1_detail.php?item_id=15164 Click Here]<br /> | notes= It is finally here: the Racing Cup Air Box for Elise! More performance, more sound and more torque.The MC Racing Cup Air Box stands out because of it’s unique “Twin Air” filter technology. Top quality by using valuable anodized aluminum and a special cotton fabric which is integrated into an extremely elastic plastic tube. Our Air Box is custom made. Our system consists of a computer modulated intake pipe (*the air needed for combustion flows through the intake pipe to the inlet valve) and a special Twin Air Filter and a fittest “70 mm Air Intake tube”.The MC Racing Cup Air Box offers a dynamic performance curve. The Cup Air Box has a exact defined and significantly higher air flow and improved responsiveness, especially in mid range. The torque load increases slightly. Due to a larger volume of cold air, which carries more oxygen, precise combustion is guaranteed. The engine appears more agile. You can count on a 5% increase in power. Installation does not require major technical alterations. Installation takes place onto the original throttle valve openings.The MC Racing Cup Air Box fits into these models:Lotus Elise M111 1.8I K-engine with 88 KW 5500 rev/min., engine 18K4F. Can also be installed into the VVC version.Please note: *some motor sport parts are without certification for road traffic and are without warranty.. }}<br /> <br /> <br /> {{Infobox Induction<br /> | name= S1 Racing Cup Carbon Airbox<br /> | image= S2_Racing_Cup_Airbox.jpg<br /> | material= <br /> | price= 350 Euros<br /> | supplier= Moto Concept<br /> | url=[http://www.moto-concept.de/en/autos/lotus/elise1/artikel_elise1_detail.php?item_id=15166 Click Here]<br /> | notes= Racing Cup Air Box for all Elise! More performance, even with extreme heat emission.Top quality by using valuable anodized aluminum, carbon and a special cotton fabric which is integrated into an precisely calculated carbon tube. Our Air Box is custom made for us. The system consists of a computer modulated intake pipe, a carbon pipe and a special Twin Air Filter.The MC Cup Carbon Air Box offers a dynamic performance curve, even with extreme heat emission from the engineThe Cup Carbon Air Box has a exact defined and significantly higher air flow than the original with significantly improved responsiveness. The torque load increases slightly. Due to a larger volume of cold air, which carries more oxygen, precise combustion is guaranteed. The engine appears more agile. You can count on a sign. increase in power compared to a closed system.Installation does not require major technical alterations. Installation takes place onto the original throttle valve openings.The Moto Concept Air Box fits these models:Lotus Elise M111 1.8I K-engine with 88 KW 5500 rev/min., engine 18K4F. Can also be installed into VVC versions.Please note: *some motor sport parts are without certification for road traffic. }}<br /> <br /> <br /> {{Infobox Induction<br /> | name= S2 Racing Cup Carbon Airbox<br /> | image= S2_Racing_Cup_Airbox.jpg<br /> | material= <br /> | price= 350 Euros<br /> | supplier= Moto Concept<br /> | url=[http://www.moto-concept.de/en/autos/lotus/elise2/artikel_elise2_detail.php?item_id=15165 Click Here]<br /> | notes= Racing Cup Air Box for all Elise! More performance, even with extreme heat emission.Top quality by using valuable anodized aluminum, carbon and a special cotton fabric which is integrated into an precisely modulated carbon tube. Our system consists of a computer modulated intake pipe, a carbon pipe and a special Twin Air Filter.The MC Cup Carbon Air Box offers a dynamic performance curve, even with extreme heat emission from the engineThe Cup Carbon Air Box has a exact defined and significantly higher air flow than the original. The responsiveness and the air flow are significantly improved. The torque load increases slightly. Due to a larger volume of cold air, which carries more oxygen, precise combustion is guarantied. The engine appears more agile. You can count on a sign. increase in power compared to a closed system.Installation does not require major technical alterations. Installation takes place onto the original throttle valve openings.Please note: *some motor sport parts are without certification for road traffic. }}<br /> <br /> <br /> ===TRD (Toyota Racing Development) ===<br /> {{Infobox Induction<br /> | name= S2 (Toyota) TRD Airbox and Filter<br /> | image= Trd-filter.jpg<br /> | material= <br /> | price= £89.94<br /> | supplier= Elise Parts<br /> | url=[http://www.eliseparts.com/products/show/41/1106/trd-airbox-and-filter/ Click Here]<br /> | notes=Genuine Lotus TRD Air Box and Filter, originally designed to increase the performance models of the S2 Exige. Uses a substantially larger filtration area along with a 30% increase in the air inlet induction port. Ideal upgrade for any Supercharged Exige but will also fit the S2 Elise and Exige with a non Supercharged Toyota 2ZZ engine. This is a Sports Filter system and as it improves the flow it will also increase induction sound.<br /> <br /> Replacement Filter<br /> A replacent filter is available from [http://www.eliseparts.com/products/show/41/975/trd-sports-air-filter/ Elise Parts]<br /> <br /> Toyota Part Number: 17801-03010.<br /> This filter is used in Toyota Celica (Years: 94-99 with 5SFE / 7AFE engines), Lexus RX (Years: 00-03 with V6 engine) and Camry (Years: 92-01 with 5SFE I4 or 3VZFE/1MZFE V6 engines) and can be bought from your average Toyota dealer (historically around £20-22), although your dealer may not carry this filter in stock and might have to order it in for you especially (normally next day).<br /> }}<br /> <br /> [[Category:Engine]]<br /> [[Category:Air Induction]]<br /> [[Category:Lotus Elise]]<br /> [[Category:S1]]<br /> [[Category:S2]]<br /> [[Category:S2 Exige]]</div>

Arisutea https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Seloc_International_Rescue&diff=11275 Seloc International Rescue 2013-10-10T07:29:05Z

<p>Arisutea: United Kingdom - Added Blinky</p> <hr /> <div>SELOC INTERNATIONAL RESCUE<br /> <br /> Listing of Rescue Rangers willing to help selocers in distress<br /> please feel free to add, subtract or amend your entry<br /> <br /> ==United Kingdom==<br /> {| class="wikitable"<br /> | Area<br /> | Member Name<br /> | Notes<br /> |- <br /> | Swindon Area<br /> | APRETEXT<br /> | Always happy to help anyone who breaks down around the Swindon area.<br /><br /> Although my help tends to be limited to a few kind words, a quizzical look, and the lending of my tools. And a cup of tea.<br /> |- <br /> | Essex<br /> | TONYR<br /> | We have a reasonably private parking area at home and a good engineer on call in Essex, altough I must warn him of this should it come to fruition&#33;&#33;&#33;<br /> |- <br /> | Bedfordshire<br /> | JONATHANMILLER<br /> | Happy to help anyone stuck at the Autodrome in Bedford.<br /> |- <br /> <br /> | Bedfordshire<br /> | MGH74<br /> | Happy to help anyone in NorthBeds/Northants<br /> |- <br /> | South West (Falmouth &amp; Padstow, Cornwall)<br /> | LECHIFFRE<br /> | I would stress that I know fcuk all about anything mechanical but fortunately know a few people who do.<br /> |- <br /> | Jersey<br /> | LAWRENCE5<br /> | I'll take Jersey. ... that said you can walk the entire island in a day<br /> |- <br /> | Gloucestershire<br /> | MISH<br /> | Happy to help anyone who gets stuck in Gloucestershire<br /> |- <br /> | Ammanford, Wales<br /> | V4FRP<br /> | I can provide translation services for those stuck in the west of Wales, tea, tools of dubious quality and parking space for another wreck in amongst my own wrecks.<br /> |- <br /> | Bristol<br /> | THE_LAD<br /> | Happy to help anyone near me, lifts to/from Williams sports cars etc back to civilisation bus stop or town <br /> |- <br /> | North Lincolnshire (Grimsby)<br /> | ARISUTEA<br /> | Quite happy to hit someones broken car with a spanner in/around the grubby Northern part of Lincolnshire. Can't guarantee I'll make it work again, but I'll try. Although why the hell you'd be coming here is beyond me (unless going to Cadwell or Blyton, then you are excused).<br /> |- <br /> | Sittingbourne, Kent<br /> | ELISEMAN<br /> |North kent area. Loan of tools, spannering and easy repairs to see you on your way, tea/biscuits and a shoulder to cry on. If you are really stuck I can offer over night secure storage of car/belongings. <br /> |-<br /> | Cornwall (Helston)<br /> | DONKSTER<br /> | Sounds like a great idea. I'd be happy to help out if needed, that's another one for deepest darkest south west...<br /> |- <br /> | Chelmsford Essex<br /> | SMARTBEAR<br /> | I have a fairly spacious drive that seloc'ers could abandon their wreckage on. <br /> I promise I won't remove anything (much) from your car.<br /> <br /> |- <br /> | Colchester, Essex<br /> | PETESNAP<br /> | I know sod all about cars, but I can offer a sympathetic ear and a lift to a petrol station/garage if needed.<br /> |- <br /> <br /> |- <br /> | Cornwall<br /> | TURNAMERE<br /> | I can offer up a little practical nouse, decent selection of well used tools, room for a Lotus on my drive if required along with Paramedic and helicopter winch rescue services for the more extreme emergencies.<br /> |- <br /> | Knutsford Cheshire<br /> | BROOKE BOND<br /> | Tea, Tools, driveway &amp; poss trailer access, south Manchester , Cheshire patch<br /> |- <br /> | Newquay Cornwall<br /> | GINGER S1<br /> | Happy to help out in Newquay/Cornwall area, have spare bedroom too<br /> |- <br /> | Southampton area<br /> | TRIGGER<br /> | F*ck am I helping you twonks &#33;&#33; ..LOL ......<br /> |- <br /> |-<br /> | Oxfordshire / Warwickshire<br /> | MRRIGMA<br /> | Happy to assist if I can, have tools and know a few bits and bobs. <br /> |-<br /> | Northern Ireland<br /> | The Persian<br /> | Happy to help anyone stuck, Warm garage and tools, plenty of space for cars & driver/passengers.<br /> |- <br /> | Durham/ Newcastle<br /> | JTBush<br /> | Loads of tools, inspection pit for work under car and a kettle<br /> |- <br /> |- <br /> | East Yorkshire<br /> | seriouslylotus<br /> | Loads of tools, Lots of parts, flat bed trailer, recovery truck with winch (I hope you don't need the winch!!)<br /> |- <br /> |-<br /> | Leeds<br /> | Blinky<br /> | Can provide taxi service for 1-4 passengers 1hr radius of Leeds<br /> |-<br /> <br /> | &nbsp;<br /> | &nbsp;<br /> | &nbsp;<br /> |}<br /> <br /> ==Mainland Europe==<br /> {| class="wikitable"<br /> | Area<br /> | Member Name<br /> | Notes<br /> |- <br /> | North of the Netherlands<br><br /> North west border region of Germany<br /> | MARTEN<br /> | I have a trailer with winch, a fully equipped workshop and many spare parts as I'm professionally working on Elise's<br /> |- <br /> | Belgium (Francorchamps to Brussels)<br /> | THIVA<br /> | I live close to the Zolder circuit and might also be able to help people on their way from Francorchamps to Brussels.<br /> |- <br /> | Lundberg Uppsala Sweden<br /> | CAT7 EVEN<br /> | I´d be more than happy to assist any selocer who dares to travel North.<br /> |- <br /> | NRW Area, Germany<br /> | TAZ<br /> | I can ridicule anyone who breaks down in NRW area and post pictures of their misfortune.<br /> |- <br /> | Nice / Cap D'Ail / Monaco / Menton<br /> | BURT<br /> | Happy to help out in Nice / Cap D'Ail / Monaco / Menton area of southern france... even have a freindly French/Canadian mechanic next door that looks after my Loti&#33;&#33;<br /> |- <br /> | Nice / Cap D'Ail / Monaco / Menton<br /> | SDIO<br /> | Willing to help if I can (plenty of tools but no garage to do the work).<br /> |-<br /> | Tilburg (NL), Eindhoven (NL), Venlo (NL), MonchenGladbach (D) Maastricht (NL), Hasselt (B)<br /> | CAPO<br /> | I can Help in the South of the Netherlands, North of Belgium, part of Germany. Have tools, have some spare parts (brakepads, driveshafts, softtop, softtop bows, etc), have a dry garage without a lift but with decent stands, etc. and have a couple of companies close by that have most of the parts on stock like starter, alternator, etc.<br /> |- <br /> | Bremen, Germany<br /> | PORKER<br /> | I could cover off support for 100km radius around Bremen Germany. But I know [Censored] all about mechanical stuff. So basically tea and translation services.<br /> |- <br /> | Munich area, Germany<br /> | KORBI<br /> | Happy to help anybody out who needs a proper look onto the car, repairs (every tool you'll need for an Elise), recovery or just a cuppa or a cold beer. SWMBO may sleep in my bed err...flat too, but I'm happy to take you to a hostel though. Munich area and south of it (say, until passo Rombo)<br /> <br /> | &nbsp;<br /> | &nbsp;<br /> | &nbsp;<br /> |}<br /> <br /> [[Category:Reference]]</div>

Arisutea https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Seloc_International_Rescue&diff=11255 Seloc International Rescue 2013-10-09T12:30:46Z

<p>Arisutea: Put info into tables</p> <hr /> <div>SELOC INTERNATIONAL RESCUE<br /> <br /> Listing of Rescue Rangers willing to help selocers in distress<br /> please feel free to add, subtract or amend your entry<br /> <br /> ==United Kingdom==<br /> {| class="wikitable"<br /> | Area<br /> | Member Name<br /> | Notes<br /> |- <br /> | Swindon Area<br /> | APRETEXT<br /> | Always happy to help anyone who breaks down around the Swindon area.<br /><br /> Although my help tends to be limited to a few kind words, a quizzical look, and the lending of my tools. And a cup of tea.<br /> |- <br /> | Essex<br /> | TONYR<br /> | We have a reasonably private parking area at home and a good engineer on call in Essex, altough I must warn him of this should it come to fruition&#33;&#33;&#33;<br /> |- <br /> | Bedfordshire<br /> | JONATHANMILLER<br /> | Happy to help anyone stuck at the Autodrome in Bedford.<br /> |- <br /> | South West (Falmouth &amp; Padstow, Cornwall)<br /> | LECHIFFRE<br /> | I would stress that I know fcuk all about anything mechanical but fortunately know a few people who do.<br /> |- <br /> | Jersey<br /> | LAWRENCE5<br /> | I'll take Jersey. ... that said you can walk the entire island in a day<br /> |- <br /> | Gloucestershire<br /> | MISH<br /> | Happy to help anyone who gets stuck in Gloucestershire<br /> |- <br /> | Ammanford, Wales<br /> | V4FRP<br /> | I can provide translation services for those stuck in the west of Wales, tea, tools of dubious quality and parking space for another wreck in amongst my own wrecks.<br /> |- <br /> | Bristol<br /> | THE_LAD<br /> | Happy to help anyone near me, lifts to/from Williams sports cars etc back to civilisation bus stop or town <br /> |- <br /> | North Lincolnshire (Grimsby)<br /> | ARISUTEA<br /> | Quite happy to hit someones broken car with a spanner in/around the grubby Northern part of Lincolnshire. Can't guarantee I'll make it work again, but I'll try. Although why the hell you'd be coming here is beyond me (unless going to Cadwell or Blyton, then you are excused).<br /> |- <br /> | Sittingbourne, Kent<br /> | ELISEMAN<br /> | I suggested something similar a while back now but in respect of loaning tools.<br /> |- <br /> | Cornwall (Helston)<br /> | DONKSTER<br /> | Sounds like a great idea. I'd be happy to help out if needed, that's another one for deepest darkest south west...<br /> |- <br /> | Chelmsford Essex<br /> | SMARTBEAR<br /> | I have a fairly spacious drive that seloc'ers could abandon their wreckage on. <br /> I promise I won't remove anything (much) from your car.<br /> |- <br /> | Cornwall<br /> | TURNAMERE<br /> | I can offer up a little practical nouse, decent selection of well used tools, room for a Lotus on my drive if required along with Paramedic and helicopter winch rescue services for the more extreme emergencies.<br /> |- <br /> | Knutsford Cheshire<br /> | BROOKE BOND<br /> | Tea, Tools, driveway &amp; poss trailer access, south Manchester , Cheshire patch<br /> |- <br /> | Newquay Cornwall<br /> | GINGER S1<br /> | Happy to help out in Newquay/Cornwall area, have spare bedroom too<br /> |- <br /> | Southampton area<br /> | TRIGGER<br /> | F*ck am I helping you twonks &#33;&#33; ..LOL ......<br /> |- <br /> | &nbsp;<br /> | &nbsp;<br /> | &nbsp;<br /> |- <br /> | &nbsp;<br /> | &nbsp;<br /> | &nbsp;<br /> |}<br /> ==Mainland Europe==<br /> {| class="wikitable"<br /> | Area<br /> | Member Name<br /> | Notes<br /> |- <br /> | North of the Netherlands<br><br /> North west border region of Germany<br /> | MARTEN<br /> | I have a trailer with winch, a fully equipped workshop and many spare parts as I'm professionally working on Elise's<br /> |- <br /> | Belgium (Francorchamps to Brussels)<br /> | THIVA<br /> | I live close to the Zolder circuit and might also be able to help people on their way from Francorchamps to Brussels.<br /> |- <br /> | Lundberg Uppsala Sweden<br /> | CAT7 EVEN<br /> | I´d be more than happy to assist any selocer who dares to travel North.<br /> |- <br /> | NRW Area, Germany<br /> | TAZ<br /> | I can ridicule anyone who breaks down in NRW area and post pictures of their misfortune.<br /> |- <br /> | Nice / Cap D'Ail / Monaco / Menton<br /> | BURT<br /> | Happy to help out in Nice / Cap D'Ail / Monaco / Menton area of southern france... even have a freindly French/Canadian mechanic next door that looks after my Loti&#33;&#33;<br /> |- <br /> | Tilburg (NL), Eindhoven (NL), Venlo (NL), MonchenGladbach (D) Maastricht (NL), Hasselt (B)<br /> | CAPO<br /> | I can Help in the South of the Netherlands, North of Belgium, part of Germany. Have tools, have some spare parts (brakepads, driveshafts, softtop, softtop bows, etc), have a dry garage without a lift but with decent stands, etc. and have a couple of companies close by that have most of the parts on stock like starter, alternator, etc.<br /> |- <br /> | Bremen, Germany<br /> | PORKER<br /> | I could cover off support for 100km radius around Bremen Germany. But I know [Censored] all about mechanical stuff. So basically tea and translation services.<br /> |- <br /> | Munich area, Germany<br /> | KORBI<br /> | Happy to help anybody out who needs a proper look onto the car, repairs (every tool you'll need for an Elise), recovery or just a cuppa or a cold beer. SWMBO may sleep in my bed err...flat too, but I'm happy to take you to a hostel though. Munich area and south of it (say, until passo Rombo)<br /> |- <br /> | &nbsp;<br /> | &nbsp;<br /> | &nbsp;<br /> |}<br /> <br /> [[Category:Reference]]</div>

Arisutea https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Gearbox_oil&diff=11024 Gearbox oil 2013-04-09T17:57:06Z

<p>Arisutea: /* Toyota C64 */</p> <hr /> <div>== Rover PG1 ==<br /> <br /> The service manual says your [[Rover PG1 gearbox]] id ''filled for life'', and requires no periodic renewal. However, some people choose to replace the oil in sync with their ''C'' service. Some have commented that a better oil can improve gear change and reduce noise.<br /> <br /> PG1 needs API GL4 spec for the synchros.<br /> <br /> Dry fill capacity = 2.4 litres<br><br /> <br /> Refil = 2.1 litres<br /> <br /> === Makes ===<br /> * Texaco MTF94 (OEM)<br /> * [http://www.morrislubricantsonline.co.uk/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=67 Lodexol MTF GL4 75W80] is PG1 specific direct replacement for MTF94 <br /> * Amsoil MTG 75w 90 Sold by Opie Oils or www.Performanceoilsltd.co.uk<br /> * Castrol TAF-X<br /> * Castrol SMX-S<br /> * [http://www.motul-oil.co.uk/pdfs/gear-oil/Gear_300_75W-90_TDS_(GB).pdf Motul Gear 300]<br /> * Silkolene Syn 5 75w-90<br /> * Unipart GUL2622<br /> * [http://www.mpmoil.nl/index.php?id=products&product=18000hr&language=en MPM 18000HR - GEARBOX OIL HONDA ROVER (75W-90)]<br /> <br /> You can get MTF94 from Land Rover (part no STC9158 for 1L, part no STC 9157 for 5L) or online here: [http://www.lrseries.com/shop/product/listing/12711/STC9157-TRANSMISSION-OIL-5LTR.html]<br /> <br /> == Honda M6T ==<br /> <br /> The Honda gearbox is also normally considered ''filled for life'', but the OEM gearbox oil is quite thin and some people change it for a more viscous gearbox oil to cope with high temperatures (eg. heavy track use) better.<br /> <br /> Dry fill capacity = 1.7 litres<br><br /> Refil = 1.5 litres<br /> <br /> === Makes ===<br /> * Honda OEM MTF-III part number 08798-9031<br /> * Silkolene Syn 5 75w-90<br /> <br /> == Toyota C64 ==<br /> <br /> Fitted in all the [[Toyota engines#2ZZ-GE|2ZZ-GE]] engined Lotus cars including the [[Elise model history#Elise 111R Introduction: January_2004|Elise 111R]], [[Elise model history#Introduction of Elise SC:_February_2008|Elise SC]], [[Elise model history#2004 Exige Introduction: March 2004|all S2 Exige variants]] and the [[Elise model history#2-Eleven Introduction: May 2007|2-11]] (GT4 excluded).<br /> <br /> The Lotus service manual recommends changing your gearbox oil every 6 years or 45,000 miles (whichever is soonest). Some recommend the use of Redline MT-90 75W/90 over the standard Lotus specified SAE 75W/90 synthetic gearbox oil, as it can improve gear shift feel.<br /> <br /> Viscosity = SAE 75W/90<br /> <br /> Quality Standard = API GL-4 or GL-5<br /> <br /> Dry fill capacity = 2.3 litres (2.4 US qt)<br /> <br /> === Makes ===<br /> * Redline MT-90 75W/90<br /> <br /> [[Category:Transmission]]<br /> [[Category:Fluid]]</div>

Arisutea https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Gearbox_oil&diff=11023 Gearbox oil 2013-04-09T17:55:50Z

<p>Arisutea: /* Honda M6T */</p> <hr /> <div>== Rover PG1 ==<br /> <br /> The service manual says your [[Rover PG1 gearbox]] id ''filled for life'', and requires no periodic renewal. However, some people choose to replace the oil in sync with their ''C'' service. Some have commented that a better oil can improve gear change and reduce noise.<br /> <br /> PG1 needs API GL4 spec for the synchros.<br /> <br /> Dry fill capacity = 2.4 litres<br><br /> <br /> Refil = 2.1 litres<br /> <br /> === Makes ===<br /> * Texaco MTF94 (OEM)<br /> * [http://www.morrislubricantsonline.co.uk/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=67 Lodexol MTF GL4 75W80] is PG1 specific direct replacement for MTF94 <br /> * Amsoil MTG 75w 90 Sold by Opie Oils or www.Performanceoilsltd.co.uk<br /> * Castrol TAF-X<br /> * Castrol SMX-S<br /> * [http://www.motul-oil.co.uk/pdfs/gear-oil/Gear_300_75W-90_TDS_(GB).pdf Motul Gear 300]<br /> * Silkolene Syn 5 75w-90<br /> * Unipart GUL2622<br /> * [http://www.mpmoil.nl/index.php?id=products&product=18000hr&language=en MPM 18000HR - GEARBOX OIL HONDA ROVER (75W-90)]<br /> <br /> You can get MTF94 from Land Rover (part no STC9158 for 1L, part no STC 9157 for 5L) or online here: [http://www.lrseries.com/shop/product/listing/12711/STC9157-TRANSMISSION-OIL-5LTR.html]<br /> <br /> == Honda M6T ==<br /> <br /> The Honda gearbox is also normally considered ''filled for life'', but the OEM gearbox oil is quite thin and some people change it for a more viscous gearbox oil to cope with high temperatures (eg. heavy track use) better.<br /> <br /> Dry fill capacity = 1.7 litres<br><br /> Refil = 1.5 litres<br /> <br /> === Makes ===<br /> * Honda OEM MTF-III part number 08798-9031<br /> * Silkolene Syn 5 75w-90<br /> <br /> == Toyota C64 ==<br /> <br /> Fitted in all the [[Toyota engines#2ZZ-GE|2ZZ-GE]] engined Lotus cars including the [[Elise model history#Elise 111R Introduction: January_2004|Elise 111R]], [[Elise model history#Introduction of Elise SC:_February_2008|Elise SC]], [[Elise model history#2004 Exige Introduction: March 2004|all S2 Exige variants]] and the [[Elise model history#2-Eleven Introduction: May 2007|2-11]] (GT4 excluded).<br /> <br /> The Lotus service manual recommends changing your gearbox oil every 6 years or 45,000 miles (whichever is soonest). Some recommend the use of Redline MT-90 75W/90 over the standard Lotus specified SAE 75W/90 synthetic gearbox oil, as it can improve gear shift feel.<br /> <br /> Viscosity = SAE 75W/90<br /> <br /> Quality Standard = API GL-4 or GL-5<br /> <br /> Dry fill capacity = 2.3 litres (2.4 US qt)<br /> <br /> [[Category:Transmission]]<br /> [[Category:Fluid]]</div>

Arisutea https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Gearbox_oil&diff=11022 Gearbox oil 2013-04-09T17:55:34Z

<p>Arisutea: /* Rover PG1 */</p> <hr /> <div>== Rover PG1 ==<br /> <br /> The service manual says your [[Rover PG1 gearbox]] id ''filled for life'', and requires no periodic renewal. However, some people choose to replace the oil in sync with their ''C'' service. Some have commented that a better oil can improve gear change and reduce noise.<br /> <br /> PG1 needs API GL4 spec for the synchros.<br /> <br /> Dry fill capacity = 2.4 litres<br><br /> <br /> Refil = 2.1 litres<br /> <br /> === Makes ===<br /> * Texaco MTF94 (OEM)<br /> * [http://www.morrislubricantsonline.co.uk/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=67 Lodexol MTF GL4 75W80] is PG1 specific direct replacement for MTF94 <br /> * Amsoil MTG 75w 90 Sold by Opie Oils or www.Performanceoilsltd.co.uk<br /> * Castrol TAF-X<br /> * Castrol SMX-S<br /> * [http://www.motul-oil.co.uk/pdfs/gear-oil/Gear_300_75W-90_TDS_(GB).pdf Motul Gear 300]<br /> * Silkolene Syn 5 75w-90<br /> * Unipart GUL2622<br /> * [http://www.mpmoil.nl/index.php?id=products&product=18000hr&language=en MPM 18000HR - GEARBOX OIL HONDA ROVER (75W-90)]<br /> <br /> You can get MTF94 from Land Rover (part no STC9158 for 1L, part no STC 9157 for 5L) or online here: [http://www.lrseries.com/shop/product/listing/12711/STC9157-TRANSMISSION-OIL-5LTR.html]<br /> <br /> == Honda M6T ==<br /> <br /> The Honda gearbox is also normally considered ''filled for life'', but the OEM gearbox oil is quite thin and some people change it for a more viscous gearbox oil to cope with high temperatures (eg. heavy track use) better.<br /> <br /> Dry fill capacity = 1.7 litres<br /> Refil = 1.5 litres<br /> <br /> === Makes ===<br /> * Honda OEM MTF-III part number 08798-9031<br /> * Silkolene Syn 5 75w-90<br /> <br /> == Toyota C64 ==<br /> <br /> Fitted in all the [[Toyota engines#2ZZ-GE|2ZZ-GE]] engined Lotus cars including the [[Elise model history#Elise 111R Introduction: January_2004|Elise 111R]], [[Elise model history#Introduction of Elise SC:_February_2008|Elise SC]], [[Elise model history#2004 Exige Introduction: March 2004|all S2 Exige variants]] and the [[Elise model history#2-Eleven Introduction: May 2007|2-11]] (GT4 excluded).<br /> <br /> The Lotus service manual recommends changing your gearbox oil every 6 years or 45,000 miles (whichever is soonest). Some recommend the use of Redline MT-90 75W/90 over the standard Lotus specified SAE 75W/90 synthetic gearbox oil, as it can improve gear shift feel.<br /> <br /> Viscosity = SAE 75W/90<br /> <br /> Quality Standard = API GL-4 or GL-5<br /> <br /> Dry fill capacity = 2.3 litres (2.4 US qt)<br /> <br /> [[Category:Transmission]]<br /> [[Category:Fluid]]</div>

Arisutea https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Gearbox_oil&diff=11021 Gearbox oil 2013-04-09T17:55:23Z

<p>Arisutea: /* Rover PG1 */</p> <hr /> <div>== Rover PG1 ==<br /> <br /> The service manual says your [[Rover PG1 gearbox]] id ''filled for life'', and requires no periodic renewal. However, some people choose to replace the oil in sync with their ''C'' service. Some have commented that a better oil can improve gear change and reduce noise.<br /> <br /> PG1 needs API GL4 spec for the synchros.<br /> <br /> Dry fill capacity = 2.4 litres<br /> <br /> Refil = 2.1 litres<br /> <br /> === Makes ===<br /> * Texaco MTF94 (OEM)<br /> * [http://www.morrislubricantsonline.co.uk/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=67 Lodexol MTF GL4 75W80] is PG1 specific direct replacement for MTF94 <br /> * Amsoil MTG 75w 90 Sold by Opie Oils or www.Performanceoilsltd.co.uk<br /> * Castrol TAF-X<br /> * Castrol SMX-S<br /> * [http://www.motul-oil.co.uk/pdfs/gear-oil/Gear_300_75W-90_TDS_(GB).pdf Motul Gear 300]<br /> * Silkolene Syn 5 75w-90<br /> * Unipart GUL2622<br /> * [http://www.mpmoil.nl/index.php?id=products&product=18000hr&language=en MPM 18000HR - GEARBOX OIL HONDA ROVER (75W-90)]<br /> <br /> You can get MTF94 from Land Rover (part no STC9158 for 1L, part no STC 9157 for 5L) or online here: [http://www.lrseries.com/shop/product/listing/12711/STC9157-TRANSMISSION-OIL-5LTR.html]<br /> <br /> == Honda M6T ==<br /> <br /> The Honda gearbox is also normally considered ''filled for life'', but the OEM gearbox oil is quite thin and some people change it for a more viscous gearbox oil to cope with high temperatures (eg. heavy track use) better.<br /> <br /> Dry fill capacity = 1.7 litres<br /> Refil = 1.5 litres<br /> <br /> === Makes ===<br /> * Honda OEM MTF-III part number 08798-9031<br /> * Silkolene Syn 5 75w-90<br /> <br /> == Toyota C64 ==<br /> <br /> Fitted in all the [[Toyota engines#2ZZ-GE|2ZZ-GE]] engined Lotus cars including the [[Elise model history#Elise 111R Introduction: January_2004|Elise 111R]], [[Elise model history#Introduction of Elise SC:_February_2008|Elise SC]], [[Elise model history#2004 Exige Introduction: March 2004|all S2 Exige variants]] and the [[Elise model history#2-Eleven Introduction: May 2007|2-11]] (GT4 excluded).<br /> <br /> The Lotus service manual recommends changing your gearbox oil every 6 years or 45,000 miles (whichever is soonest). Some recommend the use of Redline MT-90 75W/90 over the standard Lotus specified SAE 75W/90 synthetic gearbox oil, as it can improve gear shift feel.<br /> <br /> Viscosity = SAE 75W/90<br /> <br /> Quality Standard = API GL-4 or GL-5<br /> <br /> Dry fill capacity = 2.3 litres (2.4 US qt)<br /> <br /> [[Category:Transmission]]<br /> [[Category:Fluid]]</div>

Arisutea https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Gearbox_oil&diff=11020 Gearbox oil 2013-04-09T17:53:30Z

<p>Arisutea: /* Toyota C64 */</p> <hr /> <div>== Rover PG1 ==<br /> <br /> The service manual says your [[Rover PG1 gearbox]] id ''filled for life'', and requires no periodic renewal. However, some people choose to replace the oil in sync with their ''C'' service. Some have commented that a better oil can improve gear change and reduce noise.<br /> <br /> PG1 needs API GL4 spec for the synchros.<br /> <br /> Dry fill capacity = 2.4 litres<br /> Refil = 2.1 litres<br /> <br /> === Makes ===<br /> * Texaco MTF94 (OEM)<br /> * [http://www.morrislubricantsonline.co.uk/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=67 Lodexol MTF GL4 75W80] is PG1 specific direct replacement for MTF94 <br /> * Amsoil MTG 75w 90 Sold by Opie Oils or www.Performanceoilsltd.co.uk<br /> * Castrol TAF-X<br /> * Castrol SMX-S<br /> * [http://www.motul-oil.co.uk/pdfs/gear-oil/Gear_300_75W-90_TDS_(GB).pdf Motul Gear 300]<br /> * Silkolene Syn 5 75w-90<br /> * Unipart GUL2622<br /> * [http://www.mpmoil.nl/index.php?id=products&product=18000hr&language=en MPM 18000HR - GEARBOX OIL HONDA ROVER (75W-90)]<br /> <br /> You can get MTF94 from Land Rover (part no STC9158 for 1L, part no STC 9157 for 5L) or online here: [http://www.lrseries.com/shop/product/listing/12711/STC9157-TRANSMISSION-OIL-5LTR.html]<br /> <br /> == Honda M6T ==<br /> <br /> The Honda gearbox is also normally considered ''filled for life'', but the OEM gearbox oil is quite thin and some people change it for a more viscous gearbox oil to cope with high temperatures (eg. heavy track use) better.<br /> <br /> Dry fill capacity = 1.7 litres<br /> Refil = 1.5 litres<br /> <br /> === Makes ===<br /> * Honda OEM MTF-III part number 08798-9031<br /> * Silkolene Syn 5 75w-90<br /> <br /> == Toyota C64 ==<br /> <br /> Fitted in all the [[Toyota engines#2ZZ-GE|2ZZ-GE]] engined Lotus cars including the [[Elise model history#Elise 111R Introduction: January_2004|Elise 111R]], [[Elise model history#Introduction of Elise SC:_February_2008|Elise SC]], [[Elise model history#2004 Exige Introduction: March 2004|all S2 Exige variants]] and the [[Elise model history#2-Eleven Introduction: May 2007|2-11]] (GT4 excluded).<br /> <br /> The Lotus service manual recommends changing your gearbox oil every 6 years or 45,000 miles (whichever is soonest). Some recommend the use of Redline MT-90 75W/90 over the standard Lotus specified SAE 75W/90 synthetic gearbox oil, as it can improve gear shift feel.<br /> <br /> Viscosity = SAE 75W/90<br /> <br /> Quality Standard = API GL-4 or GL-5<br /> <br /> Dry fill capacity = 2.3 litres (2.4 US qt)<br /> <br /> [[Category:Transmission]]<br /> [[Category:Fluid]]</div>

Arisutea https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Gearbox_oil&diff=11019 Gearbox oil 2013-04-09T17:53:16Z

<p>Arisutea: /* Toyota C64 */</p> <hr /> <div>== Rover PG1 ==<br /> <br /> The service manual says your [[Rover PG1 gearbox]] id ''filled for life'', and requires no periodic renewal. However, some people choose to replace the oil in sync with their ''C'' service. Some have commented that a better oil can improve gear change and reduce noise.<br /> <br /> PG1 needs API GL4 spec for the synchros.<br /> <br /> Dry fill capacity = 2.4 litres<br /> Refil = 2.1 litres<br /> <br /> === Makes ===<br /> * Texaco MTF94 (OEM)<br /> * [http://www.morrislubricantsonline.co.uk/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=67 Lodexol MTF GL4 75W80] is PG1 specific direct replacement for MTF94 <br /> * Amsoil MTG 75w 90 Sold by Opie Oils or www.Performanceoilsltd.co.uk<br /> * Castrol TAF-X<br /> * Castrol SMX-S<br /> * [http://www.motul-oil.co.uk/pdfs/gear-oil/Gear_300_75W-90_TDS_(GB).pdf Motul Gear 300]<br /> * Silkolene Syn 5 75w-90<br /> * Unipart GUL2622<br /> * [http://www.mpmoil.nl/index.php?id=products&product=18000hr&language=en MPM 18000HR - GEARBOX OIL HONDA ROVER (75W-90)]<br /> <br /> You can get MTF94 from Land Rover (part no STC9158 for 1L, part no STC 9157 for 5L) or online here: [http://www.lrseries.com/shop/product/listing/12711/STC9157-TRANSMISSION-OIL-5LTR.html]<br /> <br /> == Honda M6T ==<br /> <br /> The Honda gearbox is also normally considered ''filled for life'', but the OEM gearbox oil is quite thin and some people change it for a more viscous gearbox oil to cope with high temperatures (eg. heavy track use) better.<br /> <br /> Dry fill capacity = 1.7 litres<br /> Refil = 1.5 litres<br /> <br /> === Makes ===<br /> * Honda OEM MTF-III part number 08798-9031<br /> * Silkolene Syn 5 75w-90<br /> <br /> == Toyota C64 ==<br /> <br /> Fitted in all the [[Toyota engines#2ZZ-GE|2ZZ-GE]] engined Lotus cars including the [[Elise model history#Elise 111R Introduction: January_2004|Elise 111R]], [[Elise model history#Introduction of Elise SC:_February_2008|Elise SC]], [[Elise model history#2004 Exige Introduction: March 2004|all S2 Exige variants]] and the [[Elise model history#2-Eleven Introduction: May 2007|2-11]] (GT4 excluded).<br /> <br /> The Lotus service manual recommends changing your gearbox oil every 6 years or 45,000 miles (whichever is soonest). Some recommend the use of Redline MT-90 75W/90 over the standard Lotus specified SAE 75W/90 synthetic gearbox oil, as it can improve gear shift feel.<br /> <br /> Viscosity = SAE 75W/90<br /> Quality Standard = API GL-4 or GL-5<br /> Dry fill capacity = 2.3 litres (2.4 US qt)<br /> <br /> [[Category:Transmission]]<br /> [[Category:Fluid]]</div>

Arisutea https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Gearbox_oil&diff=11018 Gearbox oil 2013-04-09T17:51:40Z

<p>Arisutea: Add Toyota C64 section</p> <hr /> <div>== Rover PG1 ==<br /> <br /> The service manual says your [[Rover PG1 gearbox]] id ''filled for life'', and requires no periodic renewal. However, some people choose to replace the oil in sync with their ''C'' service. Some have commented that a better oil can improve gear change and reduce noise.<br /> <br /> PG1 needs API GL4 spec for the synchros.<br /> <br /> Dry fill capacity = 2.4 litres<br /> Refil = 2.1 litres<br /> <br /> === Makes ===<br /> * Texaco MTF94 (OEM)<br /> * [http://www.morrislubricantsonline.co.uk/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=67 Lodexol MTF GL4 75W80] is PG1 specific direct replacement for MTF94 <br /> * Amsoil MTG 75w 90 Sold by Opie Oils or www.Performanceoilsltd.co.uk<br /> * Castrol TAF-X<br /> * Castrol SMX-S<br /> * [http://www.motul-oil.co.uk/pdfs/gear-oil/Gear_300_75W-90_TDS_(GB).pdf Motul Gear 300]<br /> * Silkolene Syn 5 75w-90<br /> * Unipart GUL2622<br /> * [http://www.mpmoil.nl/index.php?id=products&product=18000hr&language=en MPM 18000HR - GEARBOX OIL HONDA ROVER (75W-90)]<br /> <br /> You can get MTF94 from Land Rover (part no STC9158 for 1L, part no STC 9157 for 5L) or online here: [http://www.lrseries.com/shop/product/listing/12711/STC9157-TRANSMISSION-OIL-5LTR.html]<br /> <br /> == Honda M6T ==<br /> <br /> The Honda gearbox is also normally considered ''filled for life'', but the OEM gearbox oil is quite thin and some people change it for a more viscous gearbox oil to cope with high temperatures (eg. heavy track use) better.<br /> <br /> Dry fill capacity = 1.7 litres<br /> Refil = 1.5 litres<br /> <br /> === Makes ===<br /> * Honda OEM MTF-III part number 08798-9031<br /> * Silkolene Syn 5 75w-90<br /> <br /> == Toyota C64 ==<br /> <br /> Fitted in all the [[Toyota engines#2ZZ-GE|2ZZ-GE]] engined Lotus cars including the [[Elise model history#Elise 111R Introduction: January_2004|Elise 111R]], [[Elise model history#Introduction of Elise SC:_February_2008|Elise SC]], [[Elise model history#2004 Exige Introduction: March 2004|all S2 Exige variants]] and the [[Elise model history#2-Eleven Introduction: May 2007|2-11]] (GT4 excluded).<br /> <br /> The Lotus service manual recommends changing your gearbox oil every 6 years or 45,000 miles (whichever is soonest). Some recommend the use of Redline MT-90 75W/90 over the standard Lotus specified SAE 75W/90 synthetic gearbox oil, as it can improve gear shift feel.<br /> <br /> Dry fill capacity = 2.3 litres (2.4 US qt)<br /> <br /> [[Category:Transmission]]<br /> [[Category:Fluid]]</div>

Arisutea https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Remote_Boot_Release_for_S2&diff=9157 Remote Boot Release for S2 2011-04-17T20:17:43Z

<p>Arisutea: /* How to do it */</p> <hr /> <div>There is a kit available from Elise Parts for an S1 remote boot release. However the lock mechanism is mounted on the engine cover on an S2, not on the car, so to use this kit on an S2 it would require mounting the solenoid etc. on the engine cover its self. This isn't something I wanted to do, so I used a bit of ingenuity and put something together myself.<br /> <br /> I (nor SELOC or anyone else) take any responsibility if you break your car as a result of following this guide. This is a guide, not a fool proof set of instructions, as such it should be used with this in mind. Be warned: it does involve some dicking about with the cars wiring, nothing major, but you have to get a 12v feed and an earth from somewhere. Remember to disconnect the battery before you start cutting wires!<br /> <br /> I did this mod on my '04 non-touring pack 111R.<br /> <br /> ==Shopping List==<br /> *2m of bicycle brake cable (both inner & outer parts)<br /> [[Image:bicycle-cable.jpg]]<br /> *2x bicycle brake cable adjuster<br /> [[Image:bicycle-cable-adjuster.jpg]]<br /> *Central Door Locking Solenoid - I used a [http://www.maplin.co.uk/door-lock-motors-12304 YD79L] from Maplins - it includes several things I used in this HowTo. Don't be tempted to buy a cheap kit from eBay that looks the same, I got one and it broke within 2 presses of the button<br /> [[Image:Yd79l.jpg]]<br /> *A button<br /> [[Image:button.jpg]]<br /> *A 4-pin 12v automotive relay - you need one which has an open switch when the coil is not energised, and closed when it is energised.<br /> [[Image:4-pin-12V-automotive-relay.jpg]]<br /> *Some male & female spade connectors<br /> *Some cable ties<br /> *Electrical insulation tape<br /> *Double sided tape / velcro<br /> *Some wire (I used about 6m or so of 7 amp wire, available from Halfrauds for about £3.79 per 6m reel). The amount you will use/need will depend on where you choose to get the power/ground from, where you want to locate your button, the solenoid and the relay.<br /> *Beers.<br /> <br /> ==Tools==<br /> *Screwdrivers<br /> *Cable cutters<br /> *Stanley knife / cable stripper<br /> *Pliers<br /> *Drill & drill bits<br /> *Allen keys<br /> *Socket set<br /> *Spanners<br /> *T50 torx/star drive socket<br /> *Sandpaper<br /> <br /> ==Wiring==<br /> The wiring required is pretty simple, but it is pretty important you understand it because if you connect the wrong thing to the other wrong thing there is a good chance you can do some damage to either your car or yourself. Before you start cutting wires, disconnect your battery.<br /> <br /> If you don't understand what a relay is or does, read the [http://wiki.seloc.org/a/Remote_Boot_Release_for_S2#Random_Questions Random Questions] bit of this page. It will hopefully make a lot more sense then.<br /> <br /> ===Ground and Live sources===<br /> There are a number of places you could get a ground and live connection in the car, but I am going to assume you are going to use the same place as me: the auxiliary power socket between the seats.<br /> <br /> Two wires run into the auxiliary power socket connector, a ground wire (black) and a 12v live wire (purple). You will need to splice another wire into both of these wires.<br /> <br /> "Why use the auxiliary power socket?" I hear you ask. Because it already uses a reasonable high ampage fuse (20 amps) so can take the current from using the solenoid easily. And the auxiliary socket circuit (in the car) isn't shared with anything else - so if you do cock it up, there isn't anything else you can fry on the same circuit. The interior light for example is shared with the alarm system (and you don't want to be messing with that!).<br /> <br /> ===The relay===<br /> The relay will have pins on it corresponding to the two circuits which run within it (the coil circuit and the switch circuit).<br /> <br /> I will assume your relay has the same numbers on is as mine does (If your relay does not have the same numbers on the pins, normally a small circuit diagram on the side of the relay will describe what each pin refers to).<br /> <br /> *Pin 85 - Coil live<br /> *Pin 86 - Coil ground<br /> *Pin 30 - Switch live<br /> *Pin 87 - Switch ground<br /> <br /> ===The circuits===<br /> Two simple circuits need to be made - one with a button in it, the other with the solenoid in it. Parts of both of these circuits run through the relay.<br /> <br /> If you can read a circuit diagram, you can probably make sense of this diagram. If you can't allow me to explain.<br /> <br /> ;Circuit 1 - "Button circuit" : This circuit runs from the 12v power supply (ie a live in the car somewhere), then through the button, then through the relay's coil, and finally to a ground in the car.<br /> <br /> ;Circuit 2 - "Solenoid circuit" : This circuit runs from the 12v power supply through the switching part of the relay, then through the solenoid, and finally to a ground in the car.<br /> <br /> What Circuit 1 does is when the button is pressed, it completes the circuit, and energises the coil in the relay. The energised coil closes the switch on the Circuit 2 part of the relay. Circuit 2 is now complete, so the solenoid is activated. Circuit 2 will remain complete until the button in Circuit 1 is released.<br /> <br /> [[Image:Circuit-diagram.jpg]]<br /> <br /> The numbers in the diagram above in the relay (the box at the top) correspond to the pins on the relay.<br /> ===The wiring===<br /> I decided to buy red and black cable and use the red for the 12v feed, and black for ground. I got 6m of both (and used a lot more of the red than black). How much cable you will use will entirely depend on where you decide to mount the solenoid in the engine bay, the relay and the button. Just unravel some cable and lay it out through the route you are going to send the wire before cutting some off. More about which wire goes where later.<br /> <br /> ==How to do it==<br /> NOTE: My car doesn't have insulation behind the bulk head covering as it isn't a "touring" model. Yours may well have insulation which you have the choice of removing first, or finding an alternative route for the wiring. An alternative might be the slight recess which the boot hinges attach to.<br /> <br /> #Remove both seats.<br /> #*The passenger seat has 4 allen bolts. The drivers seat has 2 hex bolts & two allen bots.<br /> #*Note: there is a small seat runner stop on the drivers seat. Don't loose it!<br /> #Undo the seat and top mounts of both the seatbelts.<br /> ##Undo the seatbelts from the side of the seats (requires a 17mm spanner).<br /> ##Unclip the plastic covers over the top seatbelt mounts.<br /> ##Unbolt top mount of the seatbelt from the rollover hoop (requires a T50 torx/star drive socket and a BIG socket wrench, as it is bloody tight!).<br /> #Remove the centre console storage pocket.<br /> ##Undo the screw at the bottom of the pocket from the top.<br /> ##Then undo the two screws you can see holding the lower part in.<br /> ##Carefully lift it out the way, and disconnect the plug on the back of the auxiliary power socket.<br /> #Remove the speakers.<br /> ##Unclip the cover over the speaker (if you have any), you may need a flat-head screwdriver to prize it off.<br /> ##Undo the securing screws holding the speaker in and carefully remove the speaker from the housing making sure you don't snag the speaker wires.<br /> ##Disconnect the wires to the speakers.<br /> #Remove the bulk head covering.<br /> ##Undo the 5 (?) screws / plugs securing the cover to the bulkhead. These may need persuading with a flat-head screwdriver to come out.<br /> ##The whole cover needs to be "manipulated", shall I say, to get it in/out of the car!<br /> ##Start at the bottom on one side near the seatbelt reels. You need to carefully bend the cover out from behind the roll-over bar cover.<br /> ##Once the bottom is out, work the top out in a similar way. It does need a bit of restrained brute force, but it will come out.<br /> ##Disconnect the connector on light in the middle of the panel before trying to remove it from the car entirely.<br /> #Drill a hole in the bulk head covering for your button.<br /> ##Decide where you want your button to be. I chose to put my button on the bit which covers the seatbelt reel - there was plenty of space here and it was easily accessible.<br /> ##Double check there is enough clearance in this button location.<br /> ##Measure your button and pick an appropriate sized drill bit to drill a hole.<br /> ##Create a bit of a dint for the drill bit with a pointy object, this will stop the drill bit skipping about (you may wish to drill a pilot hole first).<br /> ##It is only plastic so remember it wont take much to drill through. Also, don't get over-zealous with the drill, if you bugger this bit up you will notice it!<br /> ##Test fit your button and fettle the edges of the hole if you need to.<br /> #Drill a hole through the bulkhead for the wires to enter the engine bay.<br /> ##Check for any pre-existing holes in the bulkhead - I had one on the drivers about 6-8" to the right of where the speakers sit. I just made this slightly bigger.<br /> ##Check BOTH SIDES of where you are drilling.<br /> ##Choose a sensible sized drill bit large enough to fit 2 cables through.<br /> ##Use minimal pressure on the drill - it is only fibreglass it isn't especially resilient to a drill!<br /> ##Test fit a couple of cables to make sure they fit through easily enough - it doesn't need to be "tight", but at the same time it doesn't want to be as slack as Kerry Katona!<br /> #Important - If you haven't already done so, disconnect the battery (you might just be able to remove the fuse).<br /> #[[Image:Wiring-diagram.jpg|frame|Wiring diagram]] Splice a 12v and a ground "main" wire into the 12v and ground cables going to the auxiliary power socket.<br /> ##Cut through both of the 12v and ground wires - leave enough spare cable on the connector end to allow you to attach a male blade connector (you might need to cut back the plastic tape stuff holding the two wires together - be careful when doing this).<br /> ##Strip and attach a couple of male blade connectors onto the bits of wire you left on the connector which connects to the auxiliary power socket.<br /> ##Decide approximately where you want your relay to live (against the bulkhead is a good idea), and unwind enough wire to run from this place to the aux power socket wires (plus a bit extra). Do this twice (one 12v, one ground).<br /> ##Strip and wind the ends of your new "main" 12v wire together with the car's 12v wire, attach a female connector onto this wire and connect it to the aux power socket. Do the same with the new "main" ground wire.<br /> #Put a female blade connector on the end of your "main" ground wire.<br /> #Cut a short 3" piece of wire to join the 30 and 85 pins on the relay to the "main" 12v wire.<br /> ##Put a female blade connector on the end of a short (3-4") piece of wire - connect this to pin 30 on the relay.<br /> ##On the other end of the short wire, wind the other ends of this wire into the 12v "main" wire - attach both wires to the same female blade connector - connect this to pin 85 on the relay.<br /> #Run 2 lengths of wire for your button.<br /> ##At one end of one of the lengths of wire, attach a female blade connector and connect it to pin 86 on your relay. Attach the other end to your button.<br /> ##From the other terminal of your button, run the second wire back to the your "main" ground wire - do not put a connector on this yet.<br /> #Run a live and ground wire from the relay, through the bulkhead, to where you would like the solenoid to live in the engine bay.<br /> ##On the relay side of the live wire, attach a female blade connector and attach it to pin 87 of the relay.<br /> ##On the engine bay side of the live and ground wires, attach a female blade connector to each wire.<br /> ##Check your solenoids connectors - if you need to, replace the connectors with a male blade connectors - this way you can switch the cables round if you connect them up and the solenoid moves the wrong way (which it probably will).<br /> ##Take the ground wire running from the solenoid through the bulkhead to the button ground wire and twist the ends together - attach a both wires to the same male blade connector and connect it to the "main" ground wire.<br /> #In theory (and if I've not forgotten anything) you should have a everything completely wired up.<br /> ##Check the diagram on the right to make sure it matches up.<br /> ##Check all the connections are solid, and if you aren't using insulated connectors, wrap some insulation tape around the connections to not leave any exposed wire.<br /> #Be brave, attach the battery terminals again and press the button. You should hear the relay click and the solenoid move.<br /> ##If it doesn't check all your connections are solid and that the fuse for the auxiliary power socket is not broken.<br /> ##Check the solenoid is PULLING in when you press the button - if it isn't, switch the two wires near the solenoid around.<br /> #Get a beer / drink or something. If it was as hot and sunny outside as it was when I was doing this, check the back of your next/face/arms etc for sunburn and apply anti-sunburn cream where needed.<br /> #Open the boot lid and prop it open.<br /> #Remove the black cover which is on the underside of the boot-lid (it covers the lock barrel & the mechanism.<br /> ##There are 4 of those rawlplug-screw efforts holding it in place. They may need some persuading to come out (use a flat headed screwdriver).<br /> ##There is also some Silkaflex/Bathroom sealant black gunky stuff holding it in place. It will come off with a but of persistance.<br /> #You will now be able to see the bottom of the lock barrel. Put your key in the lock and turn it while looking at the underside of the boot lid. Notice how when you turn it, it turns the cam bit slightly and it pulls a small spring/bit of wire which pulls on the lock mechanism to release it. This is what we are going to replicate with the bicycle cable.<br /> #Feed the outer cable (from left to right) through the boot-lid support bracket (see image).<br /> #If your bicycle cable has a connector on both ends of the cable, cut the smallest of the two connectors off with a pair of sharp wire cutters and feed it through the outer cable.<br /> #Pick up the black cover you just removed and hold it as though there it is fitted to the car. Notice on the right is a small hole in addition to the screw holes.<br /> ##Take on of your bike cable adjusters and remove the nut from it.<br /> ##Put the "bolt" bit of the adjuster through the hole and attach the nut to the other side - tighten it up so it stays there.<br /> ##Feed the bike cable through the middle of the adjuster, the adjuster will stop the outer cable going through it.<br /> ##<br /> <br /> ==Random Questions==<br /> ;What is a relay? : A relay is a method way of using a low current/voltage switch to safely connect/disconnect a higher current/voltage circuit, useful when switching motors etc on and off.<br /> <br /> ;How does a relay work? : Very simply - a low voltage circuit is used to provide power to a electromagnetic coil which, when active, will connect another higher voltage circuit.<br /> <br /> ;Why a relay? :You need a relay because you will burn the switch out with the current required to power the solenoid. If you put a switch into the low voltage coil circuit, by turning the switch on, you can control if the coil is on or not (thus connecting or disconnecting the high voltage circuit).</div>

Arisutea https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Remote_Boot_Release_for_S2&diff=9156 Remote Boot Release for S2 2011-04-17T20:06:02Z

<p>Arisutea: /* How to do it */</p> <hr /> <div>There is a kit available from Elise Parts for an S1 remote boot release. However the lock mechanism is mounted on the engine cover on an S2, not on the car, so to use this kit on an S2 it would require mounting the solenoid etc. on the engine cover its self. This isn't something I wanted to do, so I used a bit of ingenuity and put something together myself.<br /> <br /> I (nor SELOC or anyone else) take any responsibility if you break your car as a result of following this guide. This is a guide, not a fool proof set of instructions, as such it should be used with this in mind. Be warned: it does involve some dicking about with the cars wiring, nothing major, but you have to get a 12v feed and an earth from somewhere. Remember to disconnect the battery before you start cutting wires!<br /> <br /> I did this mod on my '04 non-touring pack 111R.<br /> <br /> ==Shopping List==<br /> *2m of bicycle brake cable (both inner & outer parts)<br /> [[Image:bicycle-cable.jpg]]<br /> *2x bicycle brake cable adjuster<br /> [[Image:bicycle-cable-adjuster.jpg]]<br /> *Central Door Locking Solenoid - I used a [http://www.maplin.co.uk/door-lock-motors-12304 YD79L] from Maplins - it includes several things I used in this HowTo. Don't be tempted to buy a cheap kit from eBay that looks the same, I got one and it broke within 2 presses of the button<br /> [[Image:Yd79l.jpg]]<br /> *A button<br /> [[Image:button.jpg]]<br /> *A 4-pin 12v automotive relay - you need one which has an open switch when the coil is not energised, and closed when it is energised.<br /> [[Image:4-pin-12V-automotive-relay.jpg]]<br /> *Some male & female spade connectors<br /> *Some cable ties<br /> *Electrical insulation tape<br /> *Double sided tape / velcro<br /> *Some wire (I used about 6m or so of 7 amp wire, available from Halfrauds for about £3.79 per 6m reel). The amount you will use/need will depend on where you choose to get the power/ground from, where you want to locate your button, the solenoid and the relay.<br /> *Beers.<br /> <br /> ==Tools==<br /> *Screwdrivers<br /> *Cable cutters<br /> *Stanley knife / cable stripper<br /> *Pliers<br /> *Drill & drill bits<br /> *Allen keys<br /> *Socket set<br /> *Spanners<br /> *T50 torx/star drive socket<br /> *Sandpaper<br /> <br /> ==Wiring==<br /> The wiring required is pretty simple, but it is pretty important you understand it because if you connect the wrong thing to the other wrong thing there is a good chance you can do some damage to either your car or yourself. Before you start cutting wires, disconnect your battery.<br /> <br /> If you don't understand what a relay is or does, read the [http://wiki.seloc.org/a/Remote_Boot_Release_for_S2#Random_Questions Random Questions] bit of this page. It will hopefully make a lot more sense then.<br /> <br /> ===Ground and Live sources===<br /> There are a number of places you could get a ground and live connection in the car, but I am going to assume you are going to use the same place as me: the auxiliary power socket between the seats.<br /> <br /> Two wires run into the auxiliary power socket connector, a ground wire (black) and a 12v live wire (purple). You will need to splice another wire into both of these wires.<br /> <br /> "Why use the auxiliary power socket?" I hear you ask. Because it already uses a reasonable high ampage fuse (20 amps) so can take the current from using the solenoid easily. And the auxiliary socket circuit (in the car) isn't shared with anything else - so if you do cock it up, there isn't anything else you can fry on the same circuit. The interior light for example is shared with the alarm system (and you don't want to be messing with that!).<br /> <br /> ===The relay===<br /> The relay will have pins on it corresponding to the two circuits which run within it (the coil circuit and the switch circuit).<br /> <br /> I will assume your relay has the same numbers on is as mine does (If your relay does not have the same numbers on the pins, normally a small circuit diagram on the side of the relay will describe what each pin refers to).<br /> <br /> *Pin 85 - Coil live<br /> *Pin 86 - Coil ground<br /> *Pin 30 - Switch live<br /> *Pin 87 - Switch ground<br /> <br /> ===The circuits===<br /> Two simple circuits need to be made - one with a button in it, the other with the solenoid in it. Parts of both of these circuits run through the relay.<br /> <br /> If you can read a circuit diagram, you can probably make sense of this diagram. If you can't allow me to explain.<br /> <br /> ;Circuit 1 - "Button circuit" : This circuit runs from the 12v power supply (ie a live in the car somewhere), then through the button, then through the relay's coil, and finally to a ground in the car.<br /> <br /> ;Circuit 2 - "Solenoid circuit" : This circuit runs from the 12v power supply through the switching part of the relay, then through the solenoid, and finally to a ground in the car.<br /> <br /> What Circuit 1 does is when the button is pressed, it completes the circuit, and energises the coil in the relay. The energised coil closes the switch on the Circuit 2 part of the relay. Circuit 2 is now complete, so the solenoid is activated. Circuit 2 will remain complete until the button in Circuit 1 is released.<br /> <br /> [[Image:Circuit-diagram.jpg]]<br /> <br /> The numbers in the diagram above in the relay (the box at the top) correspond to the pins on the relay.<br /> ===The wiring===<br /> I decided to buy red and black cable and use the red for the 12v feed, and black for ground. I got 6m of both (and used a lot more of the red than black). How much cable you will use will entirely depend on where you decide to mount the solenoid in the engine bay, the relay and the button. Just unravel some cable and lay it out through the route you are going to send the wire before cutting some off. More about which wire goes where later.<br /> <br /> ==How to do it==<br /> NOTE: My car doesn't have insulation behind the bulk head covering as it isn't a "touring" model. Yours may well have insulation which you have the choice of removing first, or finding an alternative route for the wiring. An alternative might be the slight recess which the boot hinges attach to.<br /> <br /> #Remove both seats.<br /> #*The passenger seat has 4 allen bolts. The drivers seat has 2 hex bolts & two allen bots.<br /> #*Note: there is a small seat runner stop on the drivers seat. Don't loose it!<br /> #Undo the seat and top mounts of both the seatbelts.<br /> ##Undo the seatbelts from the side of the seats (requires a 17mm spanner).<br /> ##Unclip the plastic covers over the top seatbelt mounts.<br /> ##Unbolt top mount of the seatbelt from the rollover hoop (requires a T50 torx/star drive socket and a BIG socket wrench, as it is bloody tight!).<br /> #Remove the centre console storage pocket.<br /> ##Undo the screw at the bottom of the pocket from the top.<br /> ##Then undo the two screws you can see holding the lower part in.<br /> ##Carefully lift it out the way, and disconnect the plug on the back of the auxiliary power socket.<br /> #Remove the speakers.<br /> ##Unclip the cover over the speaker (if you have any), you may need a flat-head screwdriver to prize it off.<br /> ##Undo the securing screws holding the speaker in and carefully remove the speaker from the housing making sure you don't snag the speaker wires.<br /> ##Disconnect the wires to the speakers.<br /> #Remove the bulk head covering.<br /> ##Undo the 5 (?) screws / plugs securing the cover to the bulkhead. These may need persuading with a flat-head screwdriver to come out.<br /> ##The whole cover needs to be "manipulated", shall I say, to get it in/out of the car!<br /> ##Start at the bottom on one side near the seatbelt reels. You need to carefully bend the cover out from behind the roll-over bar cover.<br /> ##Once the bottom is out, work the top out in a similar way. It does need a bit of restrained brute force, but it will come out.<br /> ##Disconnect the connector on light in the middle of the panel before trying to remove it from the car entirely.<br /> #Drill a hole in the bulk head covering for your button.<br /> ##Decide where you want your button to be. I chose to put my button on the bit which covers the seatbelt reel - there was plenty of space here and it was easily accessible.<br /> ##Double check there is enough clearance in this button location.<br /> ##Measure your button and pick an appropriate sized drill bit to drill a hole.<br /> ##Create a bit of a dint for the drill bit with a pointy object, this will stop the drill bit skipping about (you may wish to drill a pilot hole first).<br /> ##It is only plastic so remember it wont take much to drill through. Also, don't get over-zealous with the drill, if you bugger this bit up you will notice it!<br /> ##Test fit your button and fettle the edges of the hole if you need to.<br /> #Drill a hole through the bulkhead for the wires to enter the engine bay.<br /> ##Check for any pre-existing holes in the bulkhead - I had one on the drivers about 6-8" to the right of where the speakers sit. I just made this slightly bigger.<br /> ##Check BOTH SIDES of where you are drilling.<br /> ##Choose a sensible sized drill bit large enough to fit 2 cables through.<br /> ##Use minimal pressure on the drill - it is only fibreglass it isn't especially resilient to a drill!<br /> ##Test fit a couple of cables to make sure they fit through easily enough - it doesn't need to be "tight", but at the same time it doesn't want to be as slack as Kerry Katona!<br /> #Important - If you haven't already done so, disconnect the battery (you might just be able to remove the fuse).<br /> #[[Image:Wiring-diagram.jpg|frame|Wiring diagram]] Splice a 12v and a ground "main" wire into the 12v and ground cables going to the auxiliary power socket.<br /> ##Cut through both of the 12v and ground wires - leave enough spare cable on the connector end to allow you to attach a male blade connector (you might need to cut back the plastic tape stuff holding the two wires together - be careful when doing this).<br /> ##Strip and attach a couple of male blade connectors onto the bits of wire you left on the connector which connects to the auxiliary power socket.<br /> ##Decide approximately where you want your relay to live (against the bulkhead is a good idea), and unwind enough wire to run from this place to the aux power socket wires (plus a bit extra). Do this twice (one 12v, one ground).<br /> ##Strip and wind the ends of your new "main" 12v wire together with the car's 12v wire, attach a female connector onto this wire and connect it to the aux power socket. Do the same with the new "main" ground wire.<br /> #Put a female blade connector on the end of your "main" ground wire.<br /> #Cut a short 3" piece of wire to join the 30 and 85 pins on the relay to the "main" 12v wire.<br /> ##Put a female blade connector on the end of a short (3-4") piece of wire - connect this to pin 30 on the relay.<br /> ##On the other end of the short wire, wind the other ends of this wire into the 12v "main" wire - attach both wires to the same female blade connector - connect this to pin 85 on the relay.<br /> #Run 2 lengths of wire for your button.<br /> ##At one end of one of the lengths of wire, attach a female blade connector and connect it to pin 86 on your relay. Attach the other end to your button.<br /> ##From the other terminal of your button, run the second wire back to the your "main" ground wire - do not put a connector on this yet.<br /> #Run a live and ground wire from the relay, through the bulkhead, to where you would like the solenoid to live in the engine bay.<br /> ##On the relay side of the live wire, attach a female blade connector and attach it to pin 87 of the relay.<br /> ##On the engine bay side of the live and ground wires, attach a female blade connector to each wire.<br /> ##Check your solenoids connectors - if you need to, replace the connectors with a male blade connectors - this way you can switch the cables round if you connect them up and the solenoid moves the wrong way (which it probably will).<br /> ##Take the ground wire running from the solenoid through the bulkhead to the button ground wire and twist the ends together - attach a both wires to the same male blade connector and connect it to the "main" ground wire.<br /> #In theory (and if I've not forgotten anything) you should have a everything completely wired up.<br /> ##Check the diagram on the right to make sure it matches up.<br /> ##Check all the connections are solid, and if you aren't using insulated connectors, wrap some insulation tape around the connections to not leave any exposed wire.<br /> #Be brave, attach the battery terminals again and press the button. You should hear the relay click and the solenoid move.<br /> ##If it doesn't check all your connections are solid and that the fuse for the auxiliary power socket is not broken.<br /> ##Check the solenoid is PULLING in when you press the button - if it isn't, switch the two wires near the solenoid around.<br /> #Get a beer / drink or something. If it was as hot and sunny outside as it was when I was doing this, check the back of your next/face/arms etc for sunburn and apply anti-sunburn cream where needed.<br /> #Open the boot lid and prop it open.<br /> #Remove the black cover which is on the underside of the boot-lid (it covers the lock barrel & the mechanism.<br /> ##There are 4 of those rawlplug-screw efforts holding it in place. They may need some persuading to come out (use a flat headed screwdriver).<br /> ##There is also some Silkaflex/Bathroom sealant black gunky stuff holding it in place. It will come off with a but of persistance.<br /> #You will now be able to see the bottom of the lock barrel. Put your key in the lock and turn it while looking at the underside of the boot lid. Notice how when you turn it, it turns the cam bit slightly and it pulls a small spring/bit of wire which pulls on the lock mechanism to release it. This is what we are going to replicate with the bike cable.<br /> ##You may need to make the hole in the cam slightly larger (about 1-2mm) to fit the both the existing spring and the bike wire/puller bit through at the same time.<br /> <br /> ==Random Questions==<br /> ;What is a relay? : A relay is a method way of using a low current/voltage switch to safely connect/disconnect a higher current/voltage circuit, useful when switching motors etc on and off.<br /> <br /> ;How does a relay work? : Very simply - a low voltage circuit is used to provide power to a electromagnetic coil which, when active, will connect another higher voltage circuit.<br /> <br /> ;Why a relay? :You need a relay because you will burn the switch out with the current required to power the solenoid. If you put a switch into the low voltage coil circuit, by turning the switch on, you can control if the coil is on or not (thus connecting or disconnecting the high voltage circuit).</div>

Arisutea https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Remote_Boot_Release_for_S2&diff=9155 Remote Boot Release for S2 2011-04-17T19:50:06Z

<p>Arisutea: /* How to do it */</p> <hr /> <div>There is a kit available from Elise Parts for an S1 remote boot release. However the lock mechanism is mounted on the engine cover on an S2, not on the car, so to use this kit on an S2 it would require mounting the solenoid etc. on the engine cover its self. This isn't something I wanted to do, so I used a bit of ingenuity and put something together myself.<br /> <br /> I (nor SELOC or anyone else) take any responsibility if you break your car as a result of following this guide. This is a guide, not a fool proof set of instructions, as such it should be used with this in mind. Be warned: it does involve some dicking about with the cars wiring, nothing major, but you have to get a 12v feed and an earth from somewhere. Remember to disconnect the battery before you start cutting wires!<br /> <br /> I did this mod on my '04 non-touring pack 111R.<br /> <br /> ==Shopping List==<br /> *2m of bicycle brake cable (both inner & outer parts)<br /> [[Image:bicycle-cable.jpg]]<br /> *2x bicycle brake cable adjuster<br /> [[Image:bicycle-cable-adjuster.jpg]]<br /> *Central Door Locking Solenoid - I used a [http://www.maplin.co.uk/door-lock-motors-12304 YD79L] from Maplins - it includes several things I used in this HowTo. Don't be tempted to buy a cheap kit from eBay that looks the same, I got one and it broke within 2 presses of the button<br /> [[Image:Yd79l.jpg]]<br /> *A button<br /> [[Image:button.jpg]]<br /> *A 4-pin 12v automotive relay - you need one which has an open switch when the coil is not energised, and closed when it is energised.<br /> [[Image:4-pin-12V-automotive-relay.jpg]]<br /> *Some male & female spade connectors<br /> *Some cable ties<br /> *Electrical insulation tape<br /> *Double sided tape / velcro<br /> *Some wire (I used about 6m or so of 7 amp wire, available from Halfrauds for about £3.79 per 6m reel). The amount you will use/need will depend on where you choose to get the power/ground from, where you want to locate your button, the solenoid and the relay.<br /> *Beers.<br /> <br /> ==Tools==<br /> *Screwdrivers<br /> *Cable cutters<br /> *Stanley knife / cable stripper<br /> *Pliers<br /> *Drill & drill bits<br /> *Allen keys<br /> *Socket set<br /> *Spanners<br /> *T50 torx/star drive socket<br /> *Sandpaper<br /> <br /> ==Wiring==<br /> The wiring required is pretty simple, but it is pretty important you understand it because if you connect the wrong thing to the other wrong thing there is a good chance you can do some damage to either your car or yourself. Before you start cutting wires, disconnect your battery.<br /> <br /> If you don't understand what a relay is or does, read the [http://wiki.seloc.org/a/Remote_Boot_Release_for_S2#Random_Questions Random Questions] bit of this page. It will hopefully make a lot more sense then.<br /> <br /> ===Ground and Live sources===<br /> There are a number of places you could get a ground and live connection in the car, but I am going to assume you are going to use the same place as me: the auxiliary power socket between the seats.<br /> <br /> Two wires run into the auxiliary power socket connector, a ground wire (black) and a 12v live wire (purple). You will need to splice another wire into both of these wires.<br /> <br /> "Why use the auxiliary power socket?" I hear you ask. Because it already uses a reasonable high ampage fuse (20 amps) so can take the current from using the solenoid easily. And the auxiliary socket circuit (in the car) isn't shared with anything else - so if you do cock it up, there isn't anything else you can fry on the same circuit. The interior light for example is shared with the alarm system (and you don't want to be messing with that!).<br /> <br /> ===The relay===<br /> The relay will have pins on it corresponding to the two circuits which run within it (the coil circuit and the switch circuit).<br /> <br /> I will assume your relay has the same numbers on is as mine does (If your relay does not have the same numbers on the pins, normally a small circuit diagram on the side of the relay will describe what each pin refers to).<br /> <br /> *Pin 85 - Coil live<br /> *Pin 86 - Coil ground<br /> *Pin 30 - Switch live<br /> *Pin 87 - Switch ground<br /> <br /> ===The circuits===<br /> Two simple circuits need to be made - one with a button in it, the other with the solenoid in it. Parts of both of these circuits run through the relay.<br /> <br /> If you can read a circuit diagram, you can probably make sense of this diagram. If you can't allow me to explain.<br /> <br /> ;Circuit 1 - "Button circuit" : This circuit runs from the 12v power supply (ie a live in the car somewhere), then through the button, then through the relay's coil, and finally to a ground in the car.<br /> <br /> ;Circuit 2 - "Solenoid circuit" : This circuit runs from the 12v power supply through the switching part of the relay, then through the solenoid, and finally to a ground in the car.<br /> <br /> What Circuit 1 does is when the button is pressed, it completes the circuit, and energises the coil in the relay. The energised coil closes the switch on the Circuit 2 part of the relay. Circuit 2 is now complete, so the solenoid is activated. Circuit 2 will remain complete until the button in Circuit 1 is released.<br /> <br /> [[Image:Circuit-diagram.jpg]]<br /> <br /> The numbers in the diagram above in the relay (the box at the top) correspond to the pins on the relay.<br /> ===The wiring===<br /> I decided to buy red and black cable and use the red for the 12v feed, and black for ground. I got 6m of both (and used a lot more of the red than black). How much cable you will use will entirely depend on where you decide to mount the solenoid in the engine bay, the relay and the button. Just unravel some cable and lay it out through the route you are going to send the wire before cutting some off. More about which wire goes where later.<br /> <br /> ==How to do it==<br /> NOTE: My car doesn't have insulation behind the bulk head covering as it isn't a "touring" model. Yours may well have insulation which you have the choice of removing first, or finding an alternative route for the wiring. An alternative might be the slight recess which the boot hinges attach to.<br /> <br /> #Remove both seats.<br /> #*The passenger seat has 4 allen bolts. The drivers seat has 2 hex bolts & two allen bots.<br /> #*Note: there is a small seat runner stop on the drivers seat. Don't loose it!<br /> #Undo the seat and top mounts of both the seatbelts.<br /> ##Undo the seatbelts from the side of the seats (requires a 17mm spanner).<br /> ##Unclip the plastic covers over the top seatbelt mounts.<br /> ##Unbolt top mount of the seatbelt from the rollover hoop (requires a T50 torx/star drive socket and a BIG socket wrench, as it is bloody tight!).<br /> #Remove the centre console storage pocket.<br /> ##Undo the screw at the bottom of the pocket from the top.<br /> ##Then undo the two screws you can see holding the lower part in.<br /> ##Carefully lift it out the way, and disconnect the plug on the back of the auxiliary power socket.<br /> #Remove the speakers.<br /> ##Unclip the cover over the speaker (if you have any), you may need a flat-head screwdriver to prize it off.<br /> ##Undo the securing screws holding the speaker in and carefully remove the speaker from the housing making sure you don't snag the speaker wires.<br /> ##Disconnect the wires to the speakers.<br /> #Remove the bulk head covering.<br /> ##Undo the 5 (?) screws / plugs securing the cover to the bulkhead. These may need persuading with a flat-head screwdriver to come out.<br /> ##The whole cover needs to be "manipulated", shall I say, to get it in/out of the car!<br /> ##Start at the bottom on one side near the seatbelt reels. You need to carefully bend the cover out from behind the roll-over bar cover.<br /> ##Once the bottom is out, work the top out in a similar way. It does need a bit of restrained brute force, but it will come out.<br /> ##Disconnect the connector on light in the middle of the panel before trying to remove it from the car entirely.<br /> #Drill a hole in the bulk head covering for your button.<br /> ##Decide where you want your button to be. I chose to put my button on the bit which covers the seatbelt reel - there was plenty of space here and it was easily accessible.<br /> ##Double check there is enough clearance in this button location.<br /> ##Measure your button and pick an appropriate sized drill bit to drill a hole.<br /> ##Create a bit of a dint for the drill bit with a pointy object, this will stop the drill bit skipping about (you may wish to drill a pilot hole first).<br /> ##It is only plastic so remember it wont take much to drill through. Also, don't get over-zealous with the drill, if you bugger this bit up you will notice it!<br /> ##Test fit your button and fettle the edges of the hole if you need to.<br /> #Drill a hole through the bulkhead for the wires to enter the engine bay.<br /> ##Check for any pre-existing holes in the bulkhead - I had one on the drivers about 6-8" to the right of where the speakers sit. I just made this slightly bigger.<br /> ##Check BOTH SIDES of where you are drilling.<br /> ##Choose a sensible sized drill bit large enough to fit 2 cables through.<br /> ##Use minimal pressure on the drill - it is only fibreglass it isn't especially resilient to a drill!<br /> ##Test fit a couple of cables to make sure they fit through easily enough - it doesn't need to be "tight", but at the same time it doesn't want to be as slack as Kerry Katona!<br /> #Important - If you haven't already done so, disconnect the battery (you might just be able to remove the fuse).<br /> #[[Image:Wiring-diagram.jpg|frame|Wiring diagram]] Splice a 12v and a ground "main" wire into the 12v and ground cables going to the auxiliary power socket.<br /> ##Cut through both of the 12v and ground wires - leave enough spare cable on the connector end to allow you to attach a male blade connector (you might need to cut back the plastic tape stuff holding the two wires together - be careful when doing this).<br /> ##Strip and attach a couple of male blade connectors onto the bits of wire you left on the connector which connects to the auxiliary power socket.<br /> ##Decide approximately where you want your relay to live (against the bulkhead is a good idea), and unwind enough wire to run from this place to the aux power socket wires (plus a bit extra). Do this twice (one 12v, one ground).<br /> ##Strip and wind the ends of your new "main" 12v wire together with the car's 12v wire, attach a female connector onto this wire and connect it to the aux power socket. Do the same with the new "main" ground wire.<br /> #Put a female blade connector on the end of your "main" ground wire.<br /> #Cut a short 3" piece of wire to join the 30 and 85 pins on the relay to the "main" 12v wire.<br /> ##Put a female blade connector on the end of a short (3-4") piece of wire - connect this to pin 30 on the relay.<br /> ##On the other end of the short wire, wind the other ends of this wire into the 12v "main" wire - attach both wires to the same female blade connector - connect this to pin 85 on the relay.<br /> #Run 2 lengths of wire for your button.<br /> ##Attach a female blade connector and run one wire from pin 86 on your relay to your button.<br /> ##Run another wire from the button to the your "main" ground wire - do not put a connector on this yet.<br /> #Run a live and ground wire from the relay, through the bulkhead, to where you would like the solenoid to live in the engine bay.<br /> ##On the relay side of the live wire, attach a female blade connector and attach it to pin 87 of the relay.<br /> ##On the engine bay side of the live and ground wires, attach a female blade connector to each wire.<br /> ##Check your solenoids connectors - if you need to, replace the connectors with a male blade connectors - this way you can switch the cables round if you connect them up and the solenoid moves the wrong way (which it probably will).<br /> ##Take the ground wire running from the solenoid through the bulkhead to the button ground wire and twist the ends together - attach a both wires to the same male blade connector and connect it to the "main" ground wire.<br /> #<br /> <br /> ==Random Questions==<br /> ;What is a relay? : A relay is a method way of using a low current/voltage switch to safely connect/disconnect a higher current/voltage circuit, useful when switching motors etc on and off.<br /> <br /> ;How does a relay work? : Very simply - a low voltage circuit is used to provide power to a electromagnetic coil which, when active, will connect another higher voltage circuit.<br /> <br /> ;Why a relay? :You need a relay because you will burn the switch out with the current required to power the solenoid. If you put a switch into the low voltage coil circuit, by turning the switch on, you can control if the coil is on or not (thus connecting or disconnecting the high voltage circuit).</div>

Arisutea https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Remote_Boot_Release_for_S2&diff=9154 Remote Boot Release for S2 2011-04-17T19:47:50Z

<p>Arisutea: /* How to do it */</p> <hr /> <div>There is a kit available from Elise Parts for an S1 remote boot release. However the lock mechanism is mounted on the engine cover on an S2, not on the car, so to use this kit on an S2 it would require mounting the solenoid etc. on the engine cover its self. This isn't something I wanted to do, so I used a bit of ingenuity and put something together myself.<br /> <br /> I (nor SELOC or anyone else) take any responsibility if you break your car as a result of following this guide. This is a guide, not a fool proof set of instructions, as such it should be used with this in mind. Be warned: it does involve some dicking about with the cars wiring, nothing major, but you have to get a 12v feed and an earth from somewhere. Remember to disconnect the battery before you start cutting wires!<br /> <br /> I did this mod on my '04 non-touring pack 111R.<br /> <br /> ==Shopping List==<br /> *2m of bicycle brake cable (both inner & outer parts)<br /> [[Image:bicycle-cable.jpg]]<br /> *2x bicycle brake cable adjuster<br /> [[Image:bicycle-cable-adjuster.jpg]]<br /> *Central Door Locking Solenoid - I used a [http://www.maplin.co.uk/door-lock-motors-12304 YD79L] from Maplins - it includes several things I used in this HowTo. Don't be tempted to buy a cheap kit from eBay that looks the same, I got one and it broke within 2 presses of the button<br /> [[Image:Yd79l.jpg]]<br /> *A button<br /> [[Image:button.jpg]]<br /> *A 4-pin 12v automotive relay - you need one which has an open switch when the coil is not energised, and closed when it is energised.<br /> [[Image:4-pin-12V-automotive-relay.jpg]]<br /> *Some male & female spade connectors<br /> *Some cable ties<br /> *Electrical insulation tape<br /> *Double sided tape / velcro<br /> *Some wire (I used about 6m or so of 7 amp wire, available from Halfrauds for about £3.79 per 6m reel). The amount you will use/need will depend on where you choose to get the power/ground from, where you want to locate your button, the solenoid and the relay.<br /> *Beers.<br /> <br /> ==Tools==<br /> *Screwdrivers<br /> *Cable cutters<br /> *Stanley knife / cable stripper<br /> *Pliers<br /> *Drill & drill bits<br /> *Allen keys<br /> *Socket set<br /> *Spanners<br /> *T50 torx/star drive socket<br /> *Sandpaper<br /> <br /> ==Wiring==<br /> The wiring required is pretty simple, but it is pretty important you understand it because if you connect the wrong thing to the other wrong thing there is a good chance you can do some damage to either your car or yourself. Before you start cutting wires, disconnect your battery.<br /> <br /> If you don't understand what a relay is or does, read the [http://wiki.seloc.org/a/Remote_Boot_Release_for_S2#Random_Questions Random Questions] bit of this page. It will hopefully make a lot more sense then.<br /> <br /> ===Ground and Live sources===<br /> There are a number of places you could get a ground and live connection in the car, but I am going to assume you are going to use the same place as me: the auxiliary power socket between the seats.<br /> <br /> Two wires run into the auxiliary power socket connector, a ground wire (black) and a 12v live wire (purple). You will need to splice another wire into both of these wires.<br /> <br /> "Why use the auxiliary power socket?" I hear you ask. Because it already uses a reasonable high ampage fuse (20 amps) so can take the current from using the solenoid easily. And the auxiliary socket circuit (in the car) isn't shared with anything else - so if you do cock it up, there isn't anything else you can fry on the same circuit. The interior light for example is shared with the alarm system (and you don't want to be messing with that!).<br /> <br /> ===The relay===<br /> The relay will have pins on it corresponding to the two circuits which run within it (the coil circuit and the switch circuit).<br /> <br /> I will assume your relay has the same numbers on is as mine does (If your relay does not have the same numbers on the pins, normally a small circuit diagram on the side of the relay will describe what each pin refers to).<br /> <br /> *Pin 85 - Coil live<br /> *Pin 86 - Coil ground<br /> *Pin 30 - Switch live<br /> *Pin 87 - Switch ground<br /> <br /> ===The circuits===<br /> Two simple circuits need to be made - one with a button in it, the other with the solenoid in it. Parts of both of these circuits run through the relay.<br /> <br /> If you can read a circuit diagram, you can probably make sense of this diagram. If you can't allow me to explain.<br /> <br /> ;Circuit 1 - "Button circuit" : This circuit runs from the 12v power supply (ie a live in the car somewhere), then through the button, then through the relay's coil, and finally to a ground in the car.<br /> <br /> ;Circuit 2 - "Solenoid circuit" : This circuit runs from the 12v power supply through the switching part of the relay, then through the solenoid, and finally to a ground in the car.<br /> <br /> What Circuit 1 does is when the button is pressed, it completes the circuit, and energises the coil in the relay. The energised coil closes the switch on the Circuit 2 part of the relay. Circuit 2 is now complete, so the solenoid is activated. Circuit 2 will remain complete until the button in Circuit 1 is released.<br /> <br /> [[Image:Circuit-diagram.jpg]]<br /> <br /> The numbers in the diagram above in the relay (the box at the top) correspond to the pins on the relay.<br /> ===The wiring===<br /> I decided to buy red and black cable and use the red for the 12v feed, and black for ground. I got 6m of both (and used a lot more of the red than black). How much cable you will use will entirely depend on where you decide to mount the solenoid in the engine bay, the relay and the button. Just unravel some cable and lay it out through the route you are going to send the wire before cutting some off. More about which wire goes where later.<br /> <br /> ==How to do it==<br /> NOTE: My car doesn't have insulation behind the bulk head covering as it isn't a "touring" model. Yours may well have insulation which you have the choice of removing first, or finding an alternative route for the wiring. An alternative might be the slight recess which the boot hinges attach to.<br /> <br /> #Remove both seats.<br /> #*The passenger seat has 4 allen bolts. The drivers seat has 2 hex bolts & two allen bots.<br /> #*Note: there is a small seat runner stop on the drivers seat. Don't loose it!<br /> #Undo the seat and top mounts of both the seatbelts.<br /> ##Undo the seatbelts from the side of the seats (requires a 17mm spanner).<br /> ##Unclip the plastic covers over the top seatbelt mounts.<br /> ##Unbolt top mount of the seatbelt from the rollover hoop (requires a T50 torx/star drive socket and a BIG socket wrench, as it is bloody tight!).<br /> #Remove the centre console storage pocket.<br /> ##Undo the screw at the bottom of the pocket from the top.<br /> ##Then undo the two screws you can see holding the lower part in.<br /> ##Carefully lift it out the way, and disconnect the plug on the back of the auxiliary power socket.<br /> #Remove the speakers.<br /> ##Unclip the cover over the speaker (if you have any), you may need a flat-head screwdriver to prize it off.<br /> ##Undo the securing screws holding the speaker in and carefully remove the speaker from the housing making sure you don't snag the speaker wires.<br /> ##Disconnect the wires to the speakers.<br /> #Remove the bulk head covering.<br /> ##Undo the 5 (?) screws / plugs securing the cover to the bulkhead. These may need persuading with a flat-head screwdriver to come out.<br /> ##The whole cover needs to be "manipulated", shall I say, to get it in/out of the car!<br /> ##Start at the bottom on one side near the seatbelt reels. You need to carefully bend the cover out from behind the roll-over bar cover.<br /> ##Once the bottom is out, work the top out in a similar way. It does need a bit of restrained brute force, but it will come out.<br /> ##Disconnect the connector on light in the middle of the panel before trying to remove it from the car entirely.<br /> #Drill a hole in the bulk head covering for your button.<br /> ##Decide where you want your button to be. I chose to put my button on the bit which covers the seatbelt reel - there was plenty of space here and it was easily accessible.<br /> ##Double check there is enough clearance in this button location.<br /> ##Measure your button and pick an appropriate sized drill bit to drill a hole.<br /> ##Create a bit of a dint for the drill bit with a pointy object, this will stop the drill bit skipping about (you may wish to drill a pilot hole first).<br /> ##It is only plastic so remember it wont take much to drill through. Also, don't get over-zealous with the drill, if you bugger this bit up you will notice it!<br /> ##Test fit your button and fettle the edges of the hole if you need to.<br /> #Drill a hole through the bulkhead for the wires to enter the engine bay.<br /> ##Check for any pre-existing holes in the bulkhead - I had one on the drivers about 6-8" to the right of where the speakers sit. I just made this slightly bigger.<br /> ##Check BOTH SIDES of where you are drilling.<br /> ##Choose a sensible sized drill bit large enough to fit 2 cables through.<br /> ##Use minimal pressure on the drill - it is only fibreglass it isn't especially resilient to a drill!<br /> ##Test fit a couple of cables to make sure they fit through easily enough - it doesn't need to be "tight", but at the same time it doesn't want to be as slack as Kerry Katona!<br /> #Important - If you haven't already done so, disconnect the battery (you might just be able to remove the fuse).<br /> #[[Image:Wiring-diagram.jpg|frame|Wiring diagram]] Splice a 12v and a ground "main" wire into the 12v and ground cables going to the auxiliary power socket.<br /> ##Cut through both of the 12v and ground wires - leave enough spare cable on the connector end to allow you to attach a male blade connector (you might need to cut back the plastic tape stuff holding the two wires together - be careful when doing this).<br /> ##Strip and attach a couple of male blade connectors onto the bits of wire you left on the connector which connects to the auxiliary power socket.<br /> ##Decide approximately where you want your relay to live (against the bulkhead is a good idea), and unwind enough wire to run from this place to the aux power socket wires (plus a bit extra). Do this twice (one 12v, one ground).<br /> ##Strip and wind the ends of your new "main" 12v wire together with the car's 12v wire, attach a female connector onto this wire and connect it to the aux power socket. Do the same with the new "main" ground wire.<br /> #Put a female blade connector on the end of your "main" ground wire.<br /> #Cut a short 3" piece of wire to join the 30 and 85 pins on the relay to the "main" 12v wire.<br /> ##Put a female blade connector on the end of a short (3-4") piece of wire - connect this to pin 30 on the relay.<br /> ##On the other end of the short wire, wind the other ends of this wire into the 12v "main" wire, onto this connect another female blade connector - connect this to pin 85 on the relay.<br /> #Run 2 lengths of wire for your button.<br /> ##Attach a female blade connector and run one wire from pin 86 on your relay to your button.<br /> ##Run another wire from the button to the your "main" ground wire - do not put a connector on this yet.<br /> #Run a live and ground wire from the relay, through the bulkhead, to where you would like the solenoid to live in the engine bay.<br /> ##On the relay side of the live wire, attach a female blade connector and attach it to pin 87 of the relay.<br /> ##On the engine bay side of the live and ground wires, attach a female blade connector to each wire.<br /> ##Check your solenoids connectors - if you need to, replace the connectors with a male blade connectors - this way you can switch the cables round if you connect them up and the solenoid moves the wrong way (which it probably will).<br /> ##Take the ground wire running from the solenoid through the bulkhead into the button ground wire and twist the ends together - attach a male blade connector and connect it to the "main" ground wire.<br /> #<br /> #<br /> <br /> ==Random Questions==<br /> ;What is a relay? : A relay is a method way of using a low current/voltage switch to safely connect/disconnect a higher current/voltage circuit, useful when switching motors etc on and off.<br /> <br /> ;How does a relay work? : Very simply - a low voltage circuit is used to provide power to a electromagnetic coil which, when active, will connect another higher voltage circuit.<br /> <br /> ;Why a relay? :You need a relay because you will burn the switch out with the current required to power the solenoid. If you put a switch into the low voltage coil circuit, by turning the switch on, you can control if the coil is on or not (thus connecting or disconnecting the high voltage circuit).</div>

Arisutea https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Remote_Boot_Release_for_S2&diff=9153 Remote Boot Release for S2 2011-04-17T19:43:01Z

<p>Arisutea: /* How to do it */</p> <hr /> <div>There is a kit available from Elise Parts for an S1 remote boot release. However the lock mechanism is mounted on the engine cover on an S2, not on the car, so to use this kit on an S2 it would require mounting the solenoid etc. on the engine cover its self. This isn't something I wanted to do, so I used a bit of ingenuity and put something together myself.<br /> <br /> I (nor SELOC or anyone else) take any responsibility if you break your car as a result of following this guide. This is a guide, not a fool proof set of instructions, as such it should be used with this in mind. Be warned: it does involve some dicking about with the cars wiring, nothing major, but you have to get a 12v feed and an earth from somewhere. Remember to disconnect the battery before you start cutting wires!<br /> <br /> I did this mod on my '04 non-touring pack 111R.<br /> <br /> ==Shopping List==<br /> *2m of bicycle brake cable (both inner & outer parts)<br /> [[Image:bicycle-cable.jpg]]<br /> *2x bicycle brake cable adjuster<br /> [[Image:bicycle-cable-adjuster.jpg]]<br /> *Central Door Locking Solenoid - I used a [http://www.maplin.co.uk/door-lock-motors-12304 YD79L] from Maplins - it includes several things I used in this HowTo. Don't be tempted to buy a cheap kit from eBay that looks the same, I got one and it broke within 2 presses of the button<br /> [[Image:Yd79l.jpg]]<br /> *A button<br /> [[Image:button.jpg]]<br /> *A 4-pin 12v automotive relay - you need one which has an open switch when the coil is not energised, and closed when it is energised.<br /> [[Image:4-pin-12V-automotive-relay.jpg]]<br /> *Some male & female spade connectors<br /> *Some cable ties<br /> *Electrical insulation tape<br /> *Double sided tape / velcro<br /> *Some wire (I used about 6m or so of 7 amp wire, available from Halfrauds for about £3.79 per 6m reel). The amount you will use/need will depend on where you choose to get the power/ground from, where you want to locate your button, the solenoid and the relay.<br /> *Beers.<br /> <br /> ==Tools==<br /> *Screwdrivers<br /> *Cable cutters<br /> *Stanley knife / cable stripper<br /> *Pliers<br /> *Drill & drill bits<br /> *Allen keys<br /> *Socket set<br /> *Spanners<br /> *T50 torx/star drive socket<br /> *Sandpaper<br /> <br /> ==Wiring==<br /> The wiring required is pretty simple, but it is pretty important you understand it because if you connect the wrong thing to the other wrong thing there is a good chance you can do some damage to either your car or yourself. Before you start cutting wires, disconnect your battery.<br /> <br /> If you don't understand what a relay is or does, read the [http://wiki.seloc.org/a/Remote_Boot_Release_for_S2#Random_Questions Random Questions] bit of this page. It will hopefully make a lot more sense then.<br /> <br /> ===Ground and Live sources===<br /> There are a number of places you could get a ground and live connection in the car, but I am going to assume you are going to use the same place as me: the auxiliary power socket between the seats.<br /> <br /> Two wires run into the auxiliary power socket connector, a ground wire (black) and a 12v live wire (purple). You will need to splice another wire into both of these wires.<br /> <br /> "Why use the auxiliary power socket?" I hear you ask. Because it already uses a reasonable high ampage fuse (20 amps) so can take the current from using the solenoid easily. And the auxiliary socket circuit (in the car) isn't shared with anything else - so if you do cock it up, there isn't anything else you can fry on the same circuit. The interior light for example is shared with the alarm system (and you don't want to be messing with that!).<br /> <br /> ===The relay===<br /> The relay will have pins on it corresponding to the two circuits which run within it (the coil circuit and the switch circuit).<br /> <br /> I will assume your relay has the same numbers on is as mine does (If your relay does not have the same numbers on the pins, normally a small circuit diagram on the side of the relay will describe what each pin refers to).<br /> <br /> *Pin 85 - Coil live<br /> *Pin 86 - Coil ground<br /> *Pin 30 - Switch live<br /> *Pin 87 - Switch ground<br /> <br /> ===The circuits===<br /> Two simple circuits need to be made - one with a button in it, the other with the solenoid in it. Parts of both of these circuits run through the relay.<br /> <br /> If you can read a circuit diagram, you can probably make sense of this diagram. If you can't allow me to explain.<br /> <br /> ;Circuit 1 - "Button circuit" : This circuit runs from the 12v power supply (ie a live in the car somewhere), then through the button, then through the relay's coil, and finally to a ground in the car.<br /> <br /> ;Circuit 2 - "Solenoid circuit" : This circuit runs from the 12v power supply through the switching part of the relay, then through the solenoid, and finally to a ground in the car.<br /> <br /> What Circuit 1 does is when the button is pressed, it completes the circuit, and energises the coil in the relay. The energised coil closes the switch on the Circuit 2 part of the relay. Circuit 2 is now complete, so the solenoid is activated. Circuit 2 will remain complete until the button in Circuit 1 is released.<br /> <br /> [[Image:Circuit-diagram.jpg]]<br /> <br /> The numbers in the diagram above in the relay (the box at the top) correspond to the pins on the relay.<br /> ===The wiring===<br /> I decided to buy red and black cable and use the red for the 12v feed, and black for ground. I got 6m of both (and used a lot more of the red than black). How much cable you will use will entirely depend on where you decide to mount the solenoid in the engine bay, the relay and the button. Just unravel some cable and lay it out through the route you are going to send the wire before cutting some off. More about which wire goes where later.<br /> <br /> ==How to do it==<br /> NOTE: My car doesn't have insulation behind the bulk head covering as it isn't a "touring" model. Yours may well have insulation which you have the choice of removing first, or finding an alternative route for the wiring. An alternative might be the slight recess which the boot hinges attach to.<br /> <br /> #Remove both seats.<br /> #*The passenger seat has 4 allen bolts. The drivers seat has 2 hex bolts & two allen bots.<br /> #*Note: there is a small seat runner stop on the drivers seat. Don't loose it!<br /> #Undo the seat and top mounts of both the seatbelts.<br /> ##Undo the seatbelts from the side of the seats (requires a 17mm spanner).<br /> ##Unclip the plastic covers over the top seatbelt mounts.<br /> ##Unbolt top mount of the seatbelt from the rollover hoop (requires a T50 torx/star drive socket and a BIG socket wrench, as it is bloody tight!).<br /> #Remove the centre console storage pocket.<br /> ##Undo the screw at the bottom of the pocket from the top.<br /> ##Then undo the two screws you can see holding the lower part in.<br /> ##Carefully lift it out the way, and disconnect the plug on the back of the auxiliary power socket.<br /> #Remove the speakers.<br /> ##Unclip the cover over the speaker (if you have any), you may need a flat-head screwdriver to prize it off.<br /> ##Undo the securing screws holding the speaker in and carefully remove the speaker from the housing making sure you don't snag the speaker wires.<br /> ##Disconnect the wires to the speakers.<br /> #Remove the bulk head covering.<br /> ##Undo the 5 (?) screws / plugs securing the cover to the bulkhead. These may need persuading with a flat-head screwdriver to come out.<br /> ##The whole cover needs to be "manipulated", shall I say, to get it in/out of the car!<br /> ##Start at the bottom on one side near the seatbelt reels. You need to carefully bend the cover out from behind the roll-over bar cover.<br /> ##Once the bottom is out, work the top out in a similar way. It does need a bit of restrained brute force, but it will come out.<br /> ##Disconnect the connector on light in the middle of the panel before trying to remove it from the car entirely.<br /> #Drill a hole in the bulk head covering for your button.<br /> ##Decide where you want your button to be. I chose to put my button on the bit which covers the seatbelt reel - there was plenty of space here and it was easily accessible.<br /> ##Double check there is enough clearance in this button location.<br /> ##Measure your button and pick an appropriate sized drill bit to drill a hole.<br /> ##Create a bit of a dint for the drill bit with a pointy object, this will stop the drill bit skipping about (you may wish to drill a pilot hole first).<br /> ##It is only plastic so remember it wont take much to drill through. Also, don't get over-zealous with the drill, if you bugger this bit up you will notice it!<br /> ##Test fit your button and fettle the edges of the hole if you need to.<br /> #Drill a hole through the bulkhead for the wires to enter the engine bay.<br /> ##Check for any pre-existing holes in the bulkhead - I had one on the drivers about 6-8" to the right of where the speakers sit. I just made this slightly bigger.<br /> ##Check BOTH SIDES of where you are drilling.<br /> ##Choose a sensible sized drill bit large enough to fit 2 cables through.<br /> ##Use minimal pressure on the drill - it is only fibreglass it isn't especially resilient to a drill!<br /> ##Test fit a couple of cables to make sure they fit through easily enough - it doesn't need to be "tight", but at the same time it doesn't want to be as slack as Kerry Katona!<br /> #Important - If you haven't already done so, disconnect the battery (you might just be able to remove the fuse).<br /> #[[Image:Wiring-diagram.jpg|frame|Wiring diagram]] Splice a 12v and a ground "main" wire into the 12v and ground cables going to the auxiliary power socket.<br /> ##Cut through both of the 12v and ground wires - leave enough spare cable on the connector end to allow you to attach a male blade connector (you might need to cut back the plastic tape stuff holding the two wires together - be careful when doing this).<br /> ##Strip and attach a couple of male blade connectors onto the bits of wire you left on the connector which connects to the auxiliary power socket.<br /> ##Decide approximately where you want your relay to live (against the bulkhead is a good idea), and unwind enough wire to run from this place to the aux power socket wires (plus a bit extra). Do this twice (one 12v, one ground).<br /> ##Strip and wind the ends of your new "main" 12v wire together with the car's 12v wire, attach a female connector onto this wire and connect it to the aux power socket. Do the same with the new "main" ground wire.<br /> #Put a female blade connector on the end of your "main" ground wire.<br /> #Cut a short 3" piece of wire to join the 30 and 85 pins on the relay to the "main" 12v wire.<br /> ##Put a female blade connector on the end of a short (3-4") piece of wire - connect this to pin 30 on the relay.<br /> ##On the other end of the short wire, wind the other ends of this wire into the 12v "main" wire, onto this connect another female blade connector - connect this to pin 85 on the relay.<br /> #Run 2 lengths of wire for your button.<br /> ##Attach a female blade connector and run one wire from pin 86 on your relay to your button.<br /> ##Run another wire from the button to the your "main" ground wire - do not put a connector on this yet.<br /> #Run a live and ground wire from the relay, through the bulkhead, to where you would like the solenoid to live in the engine bay.<br /> ##On the engine bay side of this cable attach a female blade connector to each wire.<br /> ##Check your solenoids connectors - if you need to replace the connectors with a male blade connector (this way you can switch the cables round if you connect them up and the solenoid moves the wrong way).<br /> ##Take the ground wire running from the solenoid through the bulkhead into the button ground wire and twist the ends together - attach a male blade connector and connect it to the "main" ground wire.<br /> #<br /> #<br /> <br /> ==Random Questions==<br /> ;What is a relay? : A relay is a method way of using a low current/voltage switch to safely connect/disconnect a higher current/voltage circuit, useful when switching motors etc on and off.<br /> <br /> ;How does a relay work? : Very simply - a low voltage circuit is used to provide power to a electromagnetic coil which, when active, will connect another higher voltage circuit.<br /> <br /> ;Why a relay? :You need a relay because you will burn the switch out with the current required to power the solenoid. If you put a switch into the low voltage coil circuit, by turning the switch on, you can control if the coil is on or not (thus connecting or disconnecting the high voltage circuit).</div>

Arisutea https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Remote_Boot_Release_for_S2&diff=9152 Remote Boot Release for S2 2011-04-17T19:39:38Z

<p>Arisutea: /* How to do it */</p> <hr /> <div>There is a kit available from Elise Parts for an S1 remote boot release. However the lock mechanism is mounted on the engine cover on an S2, not on the car, so to use this kit on an S2 it would require mounting the solenoid etc. on the engine cover its self. This isn't something I wanted to do, so I used a bit of ingenuity and put something together myself.<br /> <br /> I (nor SELOC or anyone else) take any responsibility if you break your car as a result of following this guide. This is a guide, not a fool proof set of instructions, as such it should be used with this in mind. Be warned: it does involve some dicking about with the cars wiring, nothing major, but you have to get a 12v feed and an earth from somewhere. Remember to disconnect the battery before you start cutting wires!<br /> <br /> I did this mod on my '04 non-touring pack 111R.<br /> <br /> ==Shopping List==<br /> *2m of bicycle brake cable (both inner & outer parts)<br /> [[Image:bicycle-cable.jpg]]<br /> *2x bicycle brake cable adjuster<br /> [[Image:bicycle-cable-adjuster.jpg]]<br /> *Central Door Locking Solenoid - I used a [http://www.maplin.co.uk/door-lock-motors-12304 YD79L] from Maplins - it includes several things I used in this HowTo. Don't be tempted to buy a cheap kit from eBay that looks the same, I got one and it broke within 2 presses of the button<br /> [[Image:Yd79l.jpg]]<br /> *A button<br /> [[Image:button.jpg]]<br /> *A 4-pin 12v automotive relay - you need one which has an open switch when the coil is not energised, and closed when it is energised.<br /> [[Image:4-pin-12V-automotive-relay.jpg]]<br /> *Some male & female spade connectors<br /> *Some cable ties<br /> *Electrical insulation tape<br /> *Double sided tape / velcro<br /> *Some wire (I used about 6m or so of 7 amp wire, available from Halfrauds for about £3.79 per 6m reel). The amount you will use/need will depend on where you choose to get the power/ground from, where you want to locate your button, the solenoid and the relay.<br /> *Beers.<br /> <br /> ==Tools==<br /> *Screwdrivers<br /> *Cable cutters<br /> *Stanley knife / cable stripper<br /> *Pliers<br /> *Drill & drill bits<br /> *Allen keys<br /> *Socket set<br /> *Spanners<br /> *T50 torx/star drive socket<br /> *Sandpaper<br /> <br /> ==Wiring==<br /> The wiring required is pretty simple, but it is pretty important you understand it because if you connect the wrong thing to the other wrong thing there is a good chance you can do some damage to either your car or yourself. Before you start cutting wires, disconnect your battery.<br /> <br /> If you don't understand what a relay is or does, read the [http://wiki.seloc.org/a/Remote_Boot_Release_for_S2#Random_Questions Random Questions] bit of this page. It will hopefully make a lot more sense then.<br /> <br /> ===Ground and Live sources===<br /> There are a number of places you could get a ground and live connection in the car, but I am going to assume you are going to use the same place as me: the auxiliary power socket between the seats.<br /> <br /> Two wires run into the auxiliary power socket connector, a ground wire (black) and a 12v live wire (purple). You will need to splice another wire into both of these wires.<br /> <br /> "Why use the auxiliary power socket?" I hear you ask. Because it already uses a reasonable high ampage fuse (20 amps) so can take the current from using the solenoid easily. And the auxiliary socket circuit (in the car) isn't shared with anything else - so if you do cock it up, there isn't anything else you can fry on the same circuit. The interior light for example is shared with the alarm system (and you don't want to be messing with that!).<br /> <br /> ===The relay===<br /> The relay will have pins on it corresponding to the two circuits which run within it (the coil circuit and the switch circuit).<br /> <br /> I will assume your relay has the same numbers on is as mine does (If your relay does not have the same numbers on the pins, normally a small circuit diagram on the side of the relay will describe what each pin refers to).<br /> <br /> *Pin 85 - Coil live<br /> *Pin 86 - Coil ground<br /> *Pin 30 - Switch live<br /> *Pin 87 - Switch ground<br /> <br /> ===The circuits===<br /> Two simple circuits need to be made - one with a button in it, the other with the solenoid in it. Parts of both of these circuits run through the relay.<br /> <br /> If you can read a circuit diagram, you can probably make sense of this diagram. If you can't allow me to explain.<br /> <br /> ;Circuit 1 - "Button circuit" : This circuit runs from the 12v power supply (ie a live in the car somewhere), then through the button, then through the relay's coil, and finally to a ground in the car.<br /> <br /> ;Circuit 2 - "Solenoid circuit" : This circuit runs from the 12v power supply through the switching part of the relay, then through the solenoid, and finally to a ground in the car.<br /> <br /> What Circuit 1 does is when the button is pressed, it completes the circuit, and energises the coil in the relay. The energised coil closes the switch on the Circuit 2 part of the relay. Circuit 2 is now complete, so the solenoid is activated. Circuit 2 will remain complete until the button in Circuit 1 is released.<br /> <br /> [[Image:Circuit-diagram.jpg]]<br /> <br /> The numbers in the diagram above in the relay (the box at the top) correspond to the pins on the relay.<br /> ===The wiring===<br /> I decided to buy red and black cable and use the red for the 12v feed, and black for ground. I got 6m of both (and used a lot more of the red than black). How much cable you will use will entirely depend on where you decide to mount the solenoid in the engine bay, the relay and the button. Just unravel some cable and lay it out through the route you are going to send the wire before cutting some off. More about which wire goes where later.<br /> <br /> ==How to do it==<br /> NOTE: My car doesn't have insulation behind the bulk head covering as it isn't a "touring" model. Yours may well have insulation which you have the choice of removing first, or finding an alternative route for the wiring. An alternative might be the slight recess which the boot hinges attach to.<br /> <br /> #Remove both seats.<br /> #*The passenger seat has 4 allen bolts. The drivers seat has 2 hex bolts & two allen bots.<br /> #*Note: there is a small seat runner stop on the drivers seat. Don't loose it!<br /> #Undo the seat and top mounts of both the seatbelts.<br /> ##Undo the seatbelts from the side of the seats (requires a 17mm spanner).<br /> ##Unclip the plastic covers over the top seatbelt mounts.<br /> ##Unbolt top mount of the seatbelt from the rollover hoop (requires a T50 torx/star drive socket and a BIG socket wrench, as it is bloody tight!).<br /> #Remove the centre console storage pocket.<br /> ##Undo the screw at the bottom of the pocket from the top.<br /> ##Then undo the two screws you can see holding the lower part in.<br /> ##Carefully lift it out the way, and disconnect the plug on the back of the auxiliary power socket.<br /> #Remove the speakers.<br /> ##Unclip the cover over the speaker (if you have any), you may need a flat-head screwdriver to prize it off.<br /> ##Undo the securing screws holding the speaker in and carefully remove the speaker from the housing making sure you don't snag the speaker wires.<br /> ##Disconnect the wires to the speakers.<br /> #Remove the bulk head covering.<br /> ##Undo the 5 (?) screws / plugs securing the cover to the bulkhead. These may need persuading with a flat-head screwdriver to come out.<br /> ##The whole cover needs to be "manipulated", shall I say, to get it in/out of the car!<br /> ##Start at the bottom on one side near the seatbelt reels. You need to carefully bend the cover out from behind the roll-over bar cover.<br /> ##Once the bottom is out, work the top out in a similar way. It does need a bit of restrained brute force, but it will come out.<br /> ##Disconnect the connector on light in the middle of the panel before trying to remove it from the car entirely.<br /> #Drill a hole in the bulk head covering for your button.<br /> ##Decide where you want your button to be. I chose to put my button on the bit which covers the seatbelt reel - there was plenty of space here and it was easily accessible.<br /> ##Double check there is enough clearance in this button location.<br /> ##Measure your button and pick an appropriate sized drill bit to drill a hole.<br /> ##Create a bit of a dint for the drill bit with a pointy object, this will stop the drill bit skipping about (you may wish to drill a pilot hole first).<br /> ##It is only plastic so remember it wont take much to drill through. Also, don't get over-zealous with the drill, if you bugger this bit up you will notice it!<br /> ##Test fit your button and fettle the edges of the hole if you need to.<br /> #Drill a hole through the bulkhead for the wires to enter the engine bay.<br /> ##Check for any pre-existing holes in the bulkhead - I had one on the drivers about 6-8" to the right of where the speakers sit. I just made this slightly bigger.<br /> ##Check BOTH SIDES of where you are drilling.<br /> ##Choose a sensible sized drill bit large enough to fit 2 cables through.<br /> ##Use minimal pressure on the drill - it is only fibreglass it isn't especially resilient to a drill!<br /> ##Test fit a couple of cables to make sure they fit through easily enough - it doesn't need to be "tight", but at the same time it doesn't want to be as slack as Kerry Katona!<br /> #Important - If you haven't already done so, disconnect the battery (you might just be able to remove the fuse).<br /> #[[Image:Wiring-diagram.jpg|frame|Wiring diagram]] Splice a 12v and a ground "main" wire into the 12v and ground cables going to the auxiliary power socket.<br /> ##Cut through both of the 12v and ground wires - leave enough spare cable on the connector end to allow you to attach a male blade connector (you might need to cut back the plastic tape stuff holding the two wires together - be careful when doing this).<br /> ##Strip and attach a couple of male blade connectors onto the bits of wire you left on the connector which connects to the auxiliary power socket.<br /> ##Decide approximately where you want your relay to live (against the bulkhead is a good idea), and unwind enough wire to run from this place to the aux power socket wires (plus a bit extra). Do this twice (one 12v, one ground).<br /> ##Strip and wind the ends of your new "main" 12v wire together with the car's 12v wire, attach a female connector onto this wire and connect it to the aux power socket. Do the same with the new "main" ground wire.<br /> #Put a female blade connector on the end of your "main" ground wire.<br /> #Cut a short 3" piece of wire to join the 30 and 85 pins on the relay to the "main" 12v wire.<br /> ##Put a female blade connector on the end of a short (3-4") piece of wire - connect this to pin 30 on the relay.<br /> ##On the other end of the short wire, wind the other ends of this wire into the 12v "main" wire, onto this connect another female blade connector - connect this to pin 85 on the relay.<br /> #Run 2 lengths of wire for your button.<br /> ##Attach a female blade connector and run one wire from pin 86 on your relay to your button.<br /> ##Run another wire from the button to the your new ground wire - do not put a connector on this yet.<br /> #Run a live and ground wire from the relay, through the bulkhead, to where you would like the solenoid to live in the engine bay.<br /> ##On the engine bay side of this cable attach a female blade connector to each wire.<br /> ##Check your solenoids connectors - if you need to replace the connectors with a male blade connector (this way you can switch the cables round if you connect them up and the solenoid moves the wrong way).<br /> ##Take the ground wire running from the solenoid through the bulkhead into the button ground wire and twist the ends together - attach a male blade connector and connect it to the "main" ground wire.<br /> #<br /> #<br /> <br /> ==Random Questions==<br /> ;What is a relay? : A relay is a method way of using a low current/voltage switch to safely connect/disconnect a higher current/voltage circuit, useful when switching motors etc on and off.<br /> <br /> ;How does a relay work? : Very simply - a low voltage circuit is used to provide power to a electromagnetic coil which, when active, will connect another higher voltage circuit.<br /> <br /> ;Why a relay? :You need a relay because you will burn the switch out with the current required to power the solenoid. If you put a switch into the low voltage coil circuit, by turning the switch on, you can control if the coil is on or not (thus connecting or disconnecting the high voltage circuit).</div>

Arisutea https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Remote_Boot_Release_for_S2&diff=9151 Remote Boot Release for S2 2011-04-17T19:32:58Z

<p>Arisutea: /* How to do it */</p> <hr /> <div>There is a kit available from Elise Parts for an S1 remote boot release. However the lock mechanism is mounted on the engine cover on an S2, not on the car, so to use this kit on an S2 it would require mounting the solenoid etc. on the engine cover its self. This isn't something I wanted to do, so I used a bit of ingenuity and put something together myself.<br /> <br /> I (nor SELOC or anyone else) take any responsibility if you break your car as a result of following this guide. This is a guide, not a fool proof set of instructions, as such it should be used with this in mind. Be warned: it does involve some dicking about with the cars wiring, nothing major, but you have to get a 12v feed and an earth from somewhere. Remember to disconnect the battery before you start cutting wires!<br /> <br /> I did this mod on my '04 non-touring pack 111R.<br /> <br /> ==Shopping List==<br /> *2m of bicycle brake cable (both inner & outer parts)<br /> [[Image:bicycle-cable.jpg]]<br /> *2x bicycle brake cable adjuster<br /> [[Image:bicycle-cable-adjuster.jpg]]<br /> *Central Door Locking Solenoid - I used a [http://www.maplin.co.uk/door-lock-motors-12304 YD79L] from Maplins - it includes several things I used in this HowTo. Don't be tempted to buy a cheap kit from eBay that looks the same, I got one and it broke within 2 presses of the button<br /> [[Image:Yd79l.jpg]]<br /> *A button<br /> [[Image:button.jpg]]<br /> *A 4-pin 12v automotive relay - you need one which has an open switch when the coil is not energised, and closed when it is energised.<br /> [[Image:4-pin-12V-automotive-relay.jpg]]<br /> *Some male & female spade connectors<br /> *Some cable ties<br /> *Electrical insulation tape<br /> *Double sided tape / velcro<br /> *Some wire (I used about 6m or so of 7 amp wire, available from Halfrauds for about £3.79 per 6m reel). The amount you will use/need will depend on where you choose to get the power/ground from, where you want to locate your button, the solenoid and the relay.<br /> *Beers.<br /> <br /> ==Tools==<br /> *Screwdrivers<br /> *Cable cutters<br /> *Stanley knife / cable stripper<br /> *Pliers<br /> *Drill & drill bits<br /> *Allen keys<br /> *Socket set<br /> *Spanners<br /> *T50 torx/star drive socket<br /> *Sandpaper<br /> <br /> ==Wiring==<br /> The wiring required is pretty simple, but it is pretty important you understand it because if you connect the wrong thing to the other wrong thing there is a good chance you can do some damage to either your car or yourself. Before you start cutting wires, disconnect your battery.<br /> <br /> If you don't understand what a relay is or does, read the [http://wiki.seloc.org/a/Remote_Boot_Release_for_S2#Random_Questions Random Questions] bit of this page. It will hopefully make a lot more sense then.<br /> <br /> ===Ground and Live sources===<br /> There are a number of places you could get a ground and live connection in the car, but I am going to assume you are going to use the same place as me: the auxiliary power socket between the seats.<br /> <br /> Two wires run into the auxiliary power socket connector, a ground wire (black) and a 12v live wire (purple). You will need to splice another wire into both of these wires.<br /> <br /> "Why use the auxiliary power socket?" I hear you ask. Because it already uses a reasonable high ampage fuse (20 amps) so can take the current from using the solenoid easily. And the auxiliary socket circuit (in the car) isn't shared with anything else - so if you do cock it up, there isn't anything else you can fry on the same circuit. The interior light for example is shared with the alarm system (and you don't want to be messing with that!).<br /> <br /> ===The relay===<br /> The relay will have pins on it corresponding to the two circuits which run within it (the coil circuit and the switch circuit).<br /> <br /> I will assume your relay has the same numbers on is as mine does (If your relay does not have the same numbers on the pins, normally a small circuit diagram on the side of the relay will describe what each pin refers to).<br /> <br /> *Pin 85 - Coil live<br /> *Pin 86 - Coil ground<br /> *Pin 30 - Switch live<br /> *Pin 87 - Switch ground<br /> <br /> ===The circuits===<br /> Two simple circuits need to be made - one with a button in it, the other with the solenoid in it. Parts of both of these circuits run through the relay.<br /> <br /> If you can read a circuit diagram, you can probably make sense of this diagram. If you can't allow me to explain.<br /> <br /> ;Circuit 1 - "Button circuit" : This circuit runs from the 12v power supply (ie a live in the car somewhere), then through the button, then through the relay's coil, and finally to a ground in the car.<br /> <br /> ;Circuit 2 - "Solenoid circuit" : This circuit runs from the 12v power supply through the switching part of the relay, then through the solenoid, and finally to a ground in the car.<br /> <br /> What Circuit 1 does is when the button is pressed, it completes the circuit, and energises the coil in the relay. The energised coil closes the switch on the Circuit 2 part of the relay. Circuit 2 is now complete, so the solenoid is activated. Circuit 2 will remain complete until the button in Circuit 1 is released.<br /> <br /> [[Image:Circuit-diagram.jpg]]<br /> <br /> The numbers in the diagram above in the relay (the box at the top) correspond to the pins on the relay.<br /> ===The wiring===<br /> I decided to buy red and black cable and use the red for the 12v feed, and black for ground. I got 6m of both (and used a lot more of the red than black). How much cable you will use will entirely depend on where you decide to mount the solenoid in the engine bay, the relay and the button. Just unravel some cable and lay it out through the route you are going to send the wire before cutting some off. More about which wire goes where later.<br /> <br /> ==How to do it==<br /> NOTE: My car doesn't have insulation behind the bulk head covering as it isn't a "touring" model. Yours may well have insulation which you have the choice of removing first, or finding an alternative route for the wiring. An alternative might be the slight recess which the boot hinges attach to.<br /> <br /> #Remove both seats.<br /> #*The passenger seat has 4 allen bolts. The drivers seat has 2 hex bolts & two allen bots.<br /> #*Note: there is a small seat runner stop on the drivers seat. Don't loose it!<br /> #Undo the seat and top mounts of both the seatbelts.<br /> ##Undo the seatbelts from the side of the seats (requires a 17mm spanner).<br /> ##Unclip the plastic covers over the top seatbelt mounts.<br /> ##Unbolt top mount of the seatbelt from the rollover hoop (requires a T50 torx/star drive socket and a BIG socket wrench, as it is bloody tight!).<br /> #Remove the centre console storage pocket.<br /> ##Undo the screw at the bottom of the pocket from the top.<br /> ##Then undo the two screws you can see holding the lower part in.<br /> ##Carefully lift it out the way, and disconnect the plug on the back of the auxiliary power socket.<br /> #Remove the speakers.<br /> ##Unclip the cover over the speaker (if you have any), you may need a flat-head screwdriver to prize it off.<br /> ##Undo the securing screws holding the speaker in and carefully remove the speaker from the housing making sure you don't snag the speaker wires.<br /> ##Disconnect the wires to the speakers.<br /> #Remove the bulk head covering.<br /> ##Undo the 5 (?) screws / plugs securing the cover to the bulkhead. These may need persuading with a flat-head screwdriver to come out.<br /> ##The whole cover needs to be "manipulated", shall I say, to get it in/out of the car!<br /> ##Start at the bottom on one side near the seatbelt reels. You need to carefully bend the cover out from behind the roll-over bar cover.<br /> ##Once the bottom is out, work the top out in a similar way. It does need a bit of restrained brute force, but it will come out.<br /> ##Disconnect the connector on light in the middle of the panel before trying to remove it from the car entirely.<br /> #Drill a hole in the bulk head covering for your button.<br /> ##Decide where you want your button to be. I chose to put my button on the bit which covers the seatbelt reel - there was plenty of space here and it was easily accessible.<br /> ##Double check there is enough clearance in this button location.<br /> ##Measure your button and pick an appropriate sized drill bit to drill a hole.<br /> ##Create a bit of a dint for the drill bit with a pointy object, this will stop the drill bit skipping about (you may wish to drill a pilot hole first).<br /> ##It is only plastic so remember it wont take much to drill through. Also, don't get over-zealous with the drill, if you bugger this bit up you will notice it!<br /> ##Test fit your button and fettle the edges of the hole if you need to.<br /> #Drill a hole through the bulkhead for the wires to enter the engine bay.<br /> ##Check for any pre-existing holes in the bulkhead - I had one on the drivers about 6-8" to the right of where the speakers sit. I just made this slightly bigger.<br /> ##Check BOTH SIDES of where you are drilling.<br /> ##Choose a sensible sized drill bit large enough to fit 2 cables through.<br /> ##Use minimal pressure on the drill - it is only fibreglass it isn't especially resilient to a drill!<br /> ##Test fit a couple of cables to make sure they fit through easily enough - it doesn't need to be "tight", but at the same time it doesn't want to be as slack as Kerry Katona!<br /> #Important - If you haven't already done so, disconnect the battery (you might just be able to remove the fuse).<br /> #[[Image:Wiring-diagram.jpg|frame|Wiring diagram]] Splice a 12v and a ground "main" wire into the 12v and ground cables going to the auxiliary power socket.<br /> ##Cut through both of the 12v and ground wires - leave enough spare cable on the connector end to allow you to attach a male blade connector (you might need to cut back the plastic tape stuff holding the two wires together - be careful when doing this).<br /> ##Strip and attach a couple of male blade connectors onto the bits of wire you left on the connector which connects to the auxiliary power socket.<br /> ##Decide approximately where you want your relay to live (against the bulkhead is a good idea), and unwind enough wire to run from this place to the aux power socket wires (plus a bit extra). Do this twice (one 12v, one ground).<br /> ##Strip and wind the ends of your new "main" 12v wire together with the car's 12v wire, attach a female connector onto this wire and connect it to the aux power socket. Do the same with the new "main" ground wire.<br /> #Put a female blade connector on the end of your "main" ground wire.<br /> #Put a female blade connector on the end of a short (3-4") piece of wire, and wind the other ends of this wire into the 12v "main" wire, onto this connect another female blade connector.<br /> #Run 2 lengths of wire for your button.<br /> ##Run one wire from pin 86 on your relay to your button (with a female connector at the relay end).<br /> ##Run another wire from the button to the your new ground wire.<br /> #Run a live and ground wire from the relay, through the bulkhead, to where you would like the solenoid to live in the engine bay.<br /> ##On the engine bay side of this cable attach a female blade connector to each wire.<br /> ##Check your solenoids connectors - if you need to replace the connectors with a male blade connector (this way you can switch the cables round if you connect them up and the solenoid moves the wrong way).<br /> #<br /> #<br /> <br /> ==Random Questions==<br /> ;What is a relay? : A relay is a method way of using a low current/voltage switch to safely connect/disconnect a higher current/voltage circuit, useful when switching motors etc on and off.<br /> <br /> ;How does a relay work? : Very simply - a low voltage circuit is used to provide power to a electromagnetic coil which, when active, will connect another higher voltage circuit.<br /> <br /> ;Why a relay? :You need a relay because you will burn the switch out with the current required to power the solenoid. If you put a switch into the low voltage coil circuit, by turning the switch on, you can control if the coil is on or not (thus connecting or disconnecting the high voltage circuit).</div>

Arisutea https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Remote_Boot_Release_for_S2&diff=9150 Remote Boot Release for S2 2011-04-17T19:31:17Z

<p>Arisutea: /* How to do it */</p> <hr /> <div>There is a kit available from Elise Parts for an S1 remote boot release. However the lock mechanism is mounted on the engine cover on an S2, not on the car, so to use this kit on an S2 it would require mounting the solenoid etc. on the engine cover its self. This isn't something I wanted to do, so I used a bit of ingenuity and put something together myself.<br /> <br /> I (nor SELOC or anyone else) take any responsibility if you break your car as a result of following this guide. This is a guide, not a fool proof set of instructions, as such it should be used with this in mind. Be warned: it does involve some dicking about with the cars wiring, nothing major, but you have to get a 12v feed and an earth from somewhere. Remember to disconnect the battery before you start cutting wires!<br /> <br /> I did this mod on my '04 non-touring pack 111R.<br /> <br /> ==Shopping List==<br /> *2m of bicycle brake cable (both inner & outer parts)<br /> [[Image:bicycle-cable.jpg]]<br /> *2x bicycle brake cable adjuster<br /> [[Image:bicycle-cable-adjuster.jpg]]<br /> *Central Door Locking Solenoid - I used a [http://www.maplin.co.uk/door-lock-motors-12304 YD79L] from Maplins - it includes several things I used in this HowTo. Don't be tempted to buy a cheap kit from eBay that looks the same, I got one and it broke within 2 presses of the button<br /> [[Image:Yd79l.jpg]]<br /> *A button<br /> [[Image:button.jpg]]<br /> *A 4-pin 12v automotive relay - you need one which has an open switch when the coil is not energised, and closed when it is energised.<br /> [[Image:4-pin-12V-automotive-relay.jpg]]<br /> *Some male & female spade connectors<br /> *Some cable ties<br /> *Electrical insulation tape<br /> *Double sided tape / velcro<br /> *Some wire (I used about 6m or so of 7 amp wire, available from Halfrauds for about £3.79 per 6m reel). The amount you will use/need will depend on where you choose to get the power/ground from, where you want to locate your button, the solenoid and the relay.<br /> *Beers.<br /> <br /> ==Tools==<br /> *Screwdrivers<br /> *Cable cutters<br /> *Stanley knife / cable stripper<br /> *Pliers<br /> *Drill & drill bits<br /> *Allen keys<br /> *Socket set<br /> *Spanners<br /> *T50 torx/star drive socket<br /> *Sandpaper<br /> <br /> ==Wiring==<br /> The wiring required is pretty simple, but it is pretty important you understand it because if you connect the wrong thing to the other wrong thing there is a good chance you can do some damage to either your car or yourself. Before you start cutting wires, disconnect your battery.<br /> <br /> If you don't understand what a relay is or does, read the [http://wiki.seloc.org/a/Remote_Boot_Release_for_S2#Random_Questions Random Questions] bit of this page. It will hopefully make a lot more sense then.<br /> <br /> ===Ground and Live sources===<br /> There are a number of places you could get a ground and live connection in the car, but I am going to assume you are going to use the same place as me: the auxiliary power socket between the seats.<br /> <br /> Two wires run into the auxiliary power socket connector, a ground wire (black) and a 12v live wire (purple). You will need to splice another wire into both of these wires.<br /> <br /> "Why use the auxiliary power socket?" I hear you ask. Because it already uses a reasonable high ampage fuse (20 amps) so can take the current from using the solenoid easily. And the auxiliary socket circuit (in the car) isn't shared with anything else - so if you do cock it up, there isn't anything else you can fry on the same circuit. The interior light for example is shared with the alarm system (and you don't want to be messing with that!).<br /> <br /> ===The relay===<br /> The relay will have pins on it corresponding to the two circuits which run within it (the coil circuit and the switch circuit).<br /> <br /> I will assume your relay has the same numbers on is as mine does (If your relay does not have the same numbers on the pins, normally a small circuit diagram on the side of the relay will describe what each pin refers to).<br /> <br /> *Pin 85 - Coil live<br /> *Pin 86 - Coil ground<br /> *Pin 30 - Switch live<br /> *Pin 87 - Switch ground<br /> <br /> ===The circuits===<br /> Two simple circuits need to be made - one with a button in it, the other with the solenoid in it. Parts of both of these circuits run through the relay.<br /> <br /> If you can read a circuit diagram, you can probably make sense of this diagram. If you can't allow me to explain.<br /> <br /> ;Circuit 1 - "Button circuit" : This circuit runs from the 12v power supply (ie a live in the car somewhere), then through the button, then through the relay's coil, and finally to a ground in the car.<br /> <br /> ;Circuit 2 - "Solenoid circuit" : This circuit runs from the 12v power supply through the switching part of the relay, then through the solenoid, and finally to a ground in the car.<br /> <br /> What Circuit 1 does is when the button is pressed, it completes the circuit, and energises the coil in the relay. The energised coil closes the switch on the Circuit 2 part of the relay. Circuit 2 is now complete, so the solenoid is activated. Circuit 2 will remain complete until the button in Circuit 1 is released.<br /> <br /> [[Image:Circuit-diagram.jpg]]<br /> <br /> The numbers in the diagram above in the relay (the box at the top) correspond to the pins on the relay.<br /> ===The wiring===<br /> I decided to buy red and black cable and use the red for the 12v feed, and black for ground. I got 6m of both (and used a lot more of the red than black). How much cable you will use will entirely depend on where you decide to mount the solenoid in the engine bay, the relay and the button. Just unravel some cable and lay it out through the route you are going to send the wire before cutting some off. More about which wire goes where later.<br /> <br /> ==How to do it==<br /> NOTE: My car doesn't have insulation behind the bulk head covering as it isn't a "touring" model. Yours may well have insulation which you have the choice of removing first, or finding an alternative route for the wiring. An alternative might be the slight recess which the boot hinges attach to.<br /> <br /> #Remove both seats.<br /> #*The passenger seat has 4 allen bolts. The drivers seat has 2 hex bolts & two allen bots.<br /> #*Note: there is a small seat runner stop on the drivers seat. Don't loose it!<br /> #Undo the seat and top mounts of both the seatbelts.<br /> ##Undo the seatbelts from the side of the seats (requires a 17mm spanner).<br /> ##Unclip the plastic covers over the top seatbelt mounts.<br /> ##Unbolt top mount of the seatbelt from the rollover hoop (requires a T50 torx/star drive socket and a BIG socket wrench, as it is bloody tight!).<br /> #Remove the centre console storage pocket.<br /> ##Undo the screw at the bottom of the pocket from the top.<br /> ##Then undo the two screws you can see holding the lower part in.<br /> ##Carefully lift it out the way, and disconnect the plug on the back of the auxiliary power socket.<br /> #Remove the speakers.<br /> ##Unclip the cover over the speaker (if you have any), you may need a flat-head screwdriver to prize it off.<br /> ##Undo the securing screws holding the speaker in and carefully remove the speaker from the housing making sure you don't snag the speaker wires.<br /> ##Disconnect the wires to the speakers.<br /> #Remove the bulk head covering.<br /> ##Undo the 5 (?) screws / plugs securing the cover to the bulkhead. These may need persuading with a flat-head screwdriver to come out.<br /> ##The whole cover needs to be "manipulated", shall I say, to get it in/out of the car!<br /> ##Start at the bottom on one side near the seatbelt reels. You need to carefully bend the cover out from behind the roll-over bar cover.<br /> ##Once the bottom is out, work the top out in a similar way. It does need a bit of restrained brute force, but it will come out.<br /> ##Disconnect the connector on light in the middle of the panel before trying to remove it from the car entirely.<br /> #Drill a hole in the bulk head covering for your button.<br /> ##Decide where you want your button to be. I chose to put my button on the bit which covers the seatbelt reel - there was plenty of space here and it was easily accessible.<br /> ##Double check there is enough clearance in this button location.<br /> ##Measure your button and pick an appropriate sized drill bit to drill a hole.<br /> ##Create a bit of a dint for the drill bit with a pointy object, this will stop the drill bit skipping about (you may wish to drill a pilot hole first).<br /> ##It is only plastic so remember it wont take much to drill through. Also, don't get over-zealous with the drill, if you bugger this bit up you will notice it!<br /> ##Test fit your button and fettle the edges of the hole if you need to.<br /> #Drill a hole through the bulkhead for the wires to enter the engine bay.<br /> ##Check for any pre-existing holes in the bulkhead - I had one on the drivers about 6-8" to the right of where the speakers sit. I just made this slightly bigger.<br /> ##Check BOTH SIDES of where you are drilling.<br /> ##Choose a sensible sized drill bit large enough to fit 2 cables through.<br /> ##Use minimal pressure on the drill - it is only fibreglass it isn't especially resilient to a drill!<br /> ##Test fit a couple of cables to make sure they fit through easily enough - it doesn't need to be "tight", but at the same time it doesn't want to be as slack as Kerry Katona!<br /> #Important - If you haven't already done so, disconnect the battery (you might just be able to remove the fuse).<br /> #[Image:Wiring-diagram.jpg] Splice a 12v and a ground "main" wire into the 12v and ground cables going to the auxiliary power socket.<br /> ##Cut through both of the 12v and ground wires - leave enough spare cable on the connector end to allow you to attach a male blade connector (you might need to cut back the plastic tape stuff holding the two wires together - be careful when doing this).<br /> ##Strip and attach a couple of male blade connectors onto the bits of wire you left on the connector which connects to the auxiliary power socket.<br /> ##Decide approximately where you want your relay to live (against the bulkhead is a good idea), and unwind enough wire to run from this place to the aux power socket wires (plus a bit extra). Do this twice (one 12v, one ground).<br /> ##Strip and wind the ends of your new "main" 12v wire together with the car's 12v wire, attach a female connector onto this wire and connect it to the aux power socket. Do the same with the new "main" ground wire.<br /> #Put a female blade connector on the end of your "main" ground wire.<br /> #Put a female blade connector on the end of a short (3-4") piece of wire, and wind the other ends of this wire into the 12v "main" wire, onto this connect another female blade connector.<br /> #Run 2 lengths of wire for your button.<br /> ##Run one wire from pin 86 on your relay to your button (with a female connector at the relay end).<br /> ##Run another wire from the button to the your new ground wire.<br /> #Run a live and ground wire from the relay, through the bulkhead, to where you would like the solenoid to live in the engine bay.<br /> ##On the engine bay side of this cable attach a female blade connector to each wire.<br /> ##Check your solenoids connectors - if you need to replace the connectors with a male blade connector (this way you can switch the cables round if you connect them up and the solenoid moves the wrong way).<br /> #<br /> #<br /> <br /> ==Random Questions==<br /> ;What is a relay? : A relay is a method way of using a low current/voltage switch to safely connect/disconnect a higher current/voltage circuit, useful when switching motors etc on and off.<br /> <br /> ;How does a relay work? : Very simply - a low voltage circuit is used to provide power to a electromagnetic coil which, when active, will connect another higher voltage circuit.<br /> <br /> ;Why a relay? :You need a relay because you will burn the switch out with the current required to power the solenoid. If you put a switch into the low voltage coil circuit, by turning the switch on, you can control if the coil is on or not (thus connecting or disconnecting the high voltage circuit).</div>

Arisutea https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=File:Wiring-diagram.jpg&diff=9149 File:Wiring-diagram.jpg 2011-04-17T19:30:20Z

<p>Arisutea: boot release wiring diagram (with connectors)</p> <hr /> <div>boot release wiring diagram (with connectors)</div>

Arisutea https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Remote_Boot_Release_for_S2&diff=9148 Remote Boot Release for S2 2011-04-17T19:18:55Z

<p>Arisutea: /* How to do it */</p> <hr /> <div>There is a kit available from Elise Parts for an S1 remote boot release. However the lock mechanism is mounted on the engine cover on an S2, not on the car, so to use this kit on an S2 it would require mounting the solenoid etc. on the engine cover its self. This isn't something I wanted to do, so I used a bit of ingenuity and put something together myself.<br /> <br /> I (nor SELOC or anyone else) take any responsibility if you break your car as a result of following this guide. This is a guide, not a fool proof set of instructions, as such it should be used with this in mind. Be warned: it does involve some dicking about with the cars wiring, nothing major, but you have to get a 12v feed and an earth from somewhere. Remember to disconnect the battery before you start cutting wires!<br /> <br /> I did this mod on my '04 non-touring pack 111R.<br /> <br /> ==Shopping List==<br /> *2m of bicycle brake cable (both inner & outer parts)<br /> [[Image:bicycle-cable.jpg]]<br /> *2x bicycle brake cable adjuster<br /> [[Image:bicycle-cable-adjuster.jpg]]<br /> *Central Door Locking Solenoid - I used a [http://www.maplin.co.uk/door-lock-motors-12304 YD79L] from Maplins - it includes several things I used in this HowTo. Don't be tempted to buy a cheap kit from eBay that looks the same, I got one and it broke within 2 presses of the button<br /> [[Image:Yd79l.jpg]]<br /> *A button<br /> [[Image:button.jpg]]<br /> *A 4-pin 12v automotive relay - you need one which has an open switch when the coil is not energised, and closed when it is energised.<br /> [[Image:4-pin-12V-automotive-relay.jpg]]<br /> *Some male & female spade connectors<br /> *Some cable ties<br /> *Electrical insulation tape<br /> *Double sided tape / velcro<br /> *Some wire (I used about 6m or so of 7 amp wire, available from Halfrauds for about £3.79 per 6m reel). The amount you will use/need will depend on where you choose to get the power/ground from, where you want to locate your button, the solenoid and the relay.<br /> *Beers.<br /> <br /> ==Tools==<br /> *Screwdrivers<br /> *Cable cutters<br /> *Stanley knife / cable stripper<br /> *Pliers<br /> *Drill & drill bits<br /> *Allen keys<br /> *Socket set<br /> *Spanners<br /> *T50 torx/star drive socket<br /> *Sandpaper<br /> <br /> ==Wiring==<br /> The wiring required is pretty simple, but it is pretty important you understand it because if you connect the wrong thing to the other wrong thing there is a good chance you can do some damage to either your car or yourself. Before you start cutting wires, disconnect your battery.<br /> <br /> If you don't understand what a relay is or does, read the [http://wiki.seloc.org/a/Remote_Boot_Release_for_S2#Random_Questions Random Questions] bit of this page. It will hopefully make a lot more sense then.<br /> <br /> ===Ground and Live sources===<br /> There are a number of places you could get a ground and live connection in the car, but I am going to assume you are going to use the same place as me: the auxiliary power socket between the seats.<br /> <br /> Two wires run into the auxiliary power socket connector, a ground wire (black) and a 12v live wire (purple). You will need to splice another wire into both of these wires.<br /> <br /> "Why use the auxiliary power socket?" I hear you ask. Because it already uses a reasonable high ampage fuse (20 amps) so can take the current from using the solenoid easily. And the auxiliary socket circuit (in the car) isn't shared with anything else - so if you do cock it up, there isn't anything else you can fry on the same circuit. The interior light for example is shared with the alarm system (and you don't want to be messing with that!).<br /> <br /> ===The relay===<br /> The relay will have pins on it corresponding to the two circuits which run within it (the coil circuit and the switch circuit).<br /> <br /> I will assume your relay has the same numbers on is as mine does (If your relay does not have the same numbers on the pins, normally a small circuit diagram on the side of the relay will describe what each pin refers to).<br /> <br /> *Pin 85 - Coil live<br /> *Pin 86 - Coil ground<br /> *Pin 30 - Switch live<br /> *Pin 87 - Switch ground<br /> <br /> ===The circuits===<br /> Two simple circuits need to be made - one with a button in it, the other with the solenoid in it. Parts of both of these circuits run through the relay.<br /> <br /> If you can read a circuit diagram, you can probably make sense of this diagram. If you can't allow me to explain.<br /> <br /> ;Circuit 1 - "Button circuit" : This circuit runs from the 12v power supply (ie a live in the car somewhere), then through the button, then through the relay's coil, and finally to a ground in the car.<br /> <br /> ;Circuit 2 - "Solenoid circuit" : This circuit runs from the 12v power supply through the switching part of the relay, then through the solenoid, and finally to a ground in the car.<br /> <br /> What Circuit 1 does is when the button is pressed, it completes the circuit, and energises the coil in the relay. The energised coil closes the switch on the Circuit 2 part of the relay. Circuit 2 is now complete, so the solenoid is activated. Circuit 2 will remain complete until the button in Circuit 1 is released.<br /> <br /> [[Image:Circuit-diagram.jpg]]<br /> <br /> The numbers in the diagram above in the relay (the box at the top) correspond to the pins on the relay.<br /> ===The wiring===<br /> I decided to buy red and black cable and use the red for the 12v feed, and black for ground. I got 6m of both (and used a lot more of the red than black). How much cable you will use will entirely depend on where you decide to mount the solenoid in the engine bay, the relay and the button. Just unravel some cable and lay it out through the route you are going to send the wire before cutting some off. More about which wire goes where later.<br /> <br /> ==How to do it==<br /> NOTE: My car doesn't have insulation behind the bulk head covering as it isn't a "touring" model. Yours may well have insulation which you have the choice of removing first, or finding an alternative route for the wiring. An alternative might be the slight recess which the boot hinges attach to.<br /> <br /> #Remove both seats.<br /> #*The passenger seat has 4 allen bolts. The drivers seat has 2 hex bolts & two allen bots.<br /> #*Note: there is a small seat runner stop on the drivers seat. Don't loose it!<br /> #Undo the seat and top mounts of both the seatbelts.<br /> ##Undo the seatbelts from the side of the seats (requires a 17mm spanner).<br /> ##Unclip the plastic covers over the top seatbelt mounts.<br /> ##Unbolt top mount of the seatbelt from the rollover hoop (requires a T50 torx/star drive socket and a BIG socket wrench, as it is bloody tight!).<br /> #Remove the centre console storage pocket.<br /> ##Undo the screw at the bottom of the pocket from the top.<br /> ##Then undo the two screws you can see holding the lower part in.<br /> ##Carefully lift it out the way, and disconnect the plug on the back of the auxiliary power socket.<br /> #Remove the speakers.<br /> ##Unclip the cover over the speaker (if you have any), you may need a flat-head screwdriver to prize it off.<br /> ##Undo the securing screws holding the speaker in and carefully remove the speaker from the housing making sure you don't snag the speaker wires.<br /> ##Disconnect the wires to the speakers.<br /> #Remove the bulk head covering.<br /> ##Undo the 5 (?) screws / plugs securing the cover to the bulkhead. These may need persuading with a flat-head screwdriver to come out.<br /> ##The whole cover needs to be "manipulated", shall I say, to get it in/out of the car!<br /> ##Start at the bottom on one side near the seatbelt reels. You need to carefully bend the cover out from behind the roll-over bar cover.<br /> ##Once the bottom is out, work the top out in a similar way. It does need a bit of restrained brute force, but it will come out.<br /> ##Disconnect the connector on light in the middle of the panel before trying to remove it from the car entirely.<br /> #Drill a hole in the bulk head covering for your button.<br /> ##Decide where you want your button to be. I chose to put my button on the bit which covers the seatbelt reel - there was plenty of space here and it was easily accessible.<br /> ##Double check there is enough clearance in this button location.<br /> ##Measure your button and pick an appropriate sized drill bit to drill a hole.<br /> ##Create a bit of a dint for the drill bit with a pointy object, this will stop the drill bit skipping about (you may wish to drill a pilot hole first).<br /> ##It is only plastic so remember it wont take much to drill through. Also, don't get over-zealous with the drill, if you bugger this bit up you will notice it!<br /> ##Test fit your button and fettle the edges of the hole if you need to.<br /> #Drill a hole through the bulkhead for the wires to enter the engine bay.<br /> ##Check for any pre-existing holes in the bulkhead - I had one on the drivers about 6-8" to the right of where the speakers sit. I just made this slightly bigger.<br /> ##Check BOTH SIDES of where you are drilling.<br /> ##Choose a sensible sized drill bit large enough to fit 2 cables through.<br /> ##Use minimal pressure on the drill - it is only fibreglass it isn't especially resilient to a drill!<br /> ##Test fit a couple of cables to make sure they fit through easily enough - it doesn't need to be "tight", but at the same time it doesn't want to be as slack as Kerry Katona!<br /> #Important - If you haven't already done so, disconnect the battery (you might just be able to remove the fuse).<br /> #Splice a 12v and a ground "main" wire into the 12v and ground cables going to the auxiliary power socket.<br /> ##Cut through both of the 12v and ground wires - leave enough spare cable on the connector end to allow you to attach a blade connector (you might need to cut back the plastic tape stuff holding the two wires together - be careful when doing this).<br /> ##Strip and attach a couple of male blade connectors onto the bits of wire you left on the connector which connects to the auxiliary power socket.<br /> ##Decide approximately where you want your relay to live (against the bulkhead is a good idea), and unwind enough wire to run from this place to the aux power socket wires (plus a bit extra). Do this twice (one 12v, one ground).<br /> ##Strip and wind the ends of the car 12v wire and the new live cable leading to your relay. On the end of this attach a female spade connector. Repeat this for the ground cable.<br /> #Split/splice a short piece of cable onto the relay end of your new 12v wire: You need 2 live connections going into the relay, one onto pin 85 for the coil, the other going to pin 30 for the switch/solenoid.<br /> #Put a male or female blade connector on the end of your new ground wire.<br /> #Run 2 lengths of wire for your button.<br /> ##Run one wire from pin 86 on your relay to your button.<br /> ##Run another wire from the button to the your new ground wire.<br /> #Run a live and ground wire from the relay, through the bulkhead, to where you would like the solenoid to live in the engine bay.<br /> ##On the engine bay side of this cable attach a female blade connector to each wire.<br /> ##Check your solenoids connectors - if you need to replace the connectors with a male blade connector (this way you can switch the cables round if you connect them up and the solenoid moves the wrong way).<br /> #<br /> #<br /> <br /> ==Random Questions==<br /> ;What is a relay? : A relay is a method way of using a low current/voltage switch to safely connect/disconnect a higher current/voltage circuit, useful when switching motors etc on and off.<br /> <br /> ;How does a relay work? : Very simply - a low voltage circuit is used to provide power to a electromagnetic coil which, when active, will connect another higher voltage circuit.<br /> <br /> ;Why a relay? :You need a relay because you will burn the switch out with the current required to power the solenoid. If you put a switch into the low voltage coil circuit, by turning the switch on, you can control if the coil is on or not (thus connecting or disconnecting the high voltage circuit).</div>

Arisutea https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Remote_Boot_Release_for_S2&diff=9147 Remote Boot Release for S2 2011-04-17T18:48:34Z

<p>Arisutea: /* How to do it */</p> <hr /> <div>There is a kit available from Elise Parts for an S1 remote boot release. However the lock mechanism is mounted on the engine cover on an S2, not on the car, so to use this kit on an S2 it would require mounting the solenoid etc. on the engine cover its self. This isn't something I wanted to do, so I used a bit of ingenuity and put something together myself.<br /> <br /> I (nor SELOC or anyone else) take any responsibility if you break your car as a result of following this guide. This is a guide, not a fool proof set of instructions, as such it should be used with this in mind. Be warned: it does involve some dicking about with the cars wiring, nothing major, but you have to get a 12v feed and an earth from somewhere. Remember to disconnect the battery before you start cutting wires!<br /> <br /> I did this mod on my '04 non-touring pack 111R.<br /> <br /> ==Shopping List==<br /> *2m of bicycle brake cable (both inner & outer parts)<br /> [[Image:bicycle-cable.jpg]]<br /> *2x bicycle brake cable adjuster<br /> [[Image:bicycle-cable-adjuster.jpg]]<br /> *Central Door Locking Solenoid - I used a [http://www.maplin.co.uk/door-lock-motors-12304 YD79L] from Maplins - it includes several things I used in this HowTo. Don't be tempted to buy a cheap kit from eBay that looks the same, I got one and it broke within 2 presses of the button<br /> [[Image:Yd79l.jpg]]<br /> *A button<br /> [[Image:button.jpg]]<br /> *A 4-pin 12v automotive relay - you need one which has an open switch when the coil is not energised, and closed when it is energised.<br /> [[Image:4-pin-12V-automotive-relay.jpg]]<br /> *Some male & female spade connectors<br /> *Some cable ties<br /> *Electrical insulation tape<br /> *Double sided tape / velcro<br /> *Some wire (I used about 6m or so of 7 amp wire, available from Halfrauds for about £3.79 per 6m reel). The amount you will use/need will depend on where you choose to get the power/ground from, where you want to locate your button, the solenoid and the relay.<br /> *Beers.<br /> <br /> ==Tools==<br /> *Screwdrivers<br /> *Cable cutters<br /> *Stanley knife / cable stripper<br /> *Pliers<br /> *Drill & drill bits<br /> *Allen keys<br /> *Socket set<br /> *Spanners<br /> *T50 torx/star drive socket<br /> *Sandpaper<br /> <br /> ==Wiring==<br /> The wiring required is pretty simple, but it is pretty important you understand it because if you connect the wrong thing to the other wrong thing there is a good chance you can do some damage to either your car or yourself. Before you start cutting wires, disconnect your battery.<br /> <br /> If you don't understand what a relay is or does, read the [http://wiki.seloc.org/a/Remote_Boot_Release_for_S2#Random_Questions Random Questions] bit of this page. It will hopefully make a lot more sense then.<br /> <br /> ===Ground and Live sources===<br /> There are a number of places you could get a ground and live connection in the car, but I am going to assume you are going to use the same place as me: the auxiliary power socket between the seats.<br /> <br /> Two wires run into the auxiliary power socket connector, a ground wire (black) and a 12v live wire (purple). You will need to splice another wire into both of these wires.<br /> <br /> "Why use the auxiliary power socket?" I hear you ask. Because it already uses a reasonable high ampage fuse (20 amps) so can take the current from using the solenoid easily. And the auxiliary socket circuit (in the car) isn't shared with anything else - so if you do cock it up, there isn't anything else you can fry on the same circuit. The interior light for example is shared with the alarm system (and you don't want to be messing with that!).<br /> <br /> ===The relay===<br /> The relay will have pins on it corresponding to the two circuits which run within it (the coil circuit and the switch circuit).<br /> <br /> I will assume your relay has the same numbers on is as mine does (If your relay does not have the same numbers on the pins, normally a small circuit diagram on the side of the relay will describe what each pin refers to).<br /> <br /> *Pin 85 - Coil live<br /> *Pin 86 - Coil ground<br /> *Pin 30 - Switch live<br /> *Pin 87 - Switch ground<br /> <br /> ===The circuits===<br /> Two simple circuits need to be made - one with a button in it, the other with the solenoid in it. Parts of both of these circuits run through the relay.<br /> <br /> If you can read a circuit diagram, you can probably make sense of this diagram. If you can't allow me to explain.<br /> <br /> ;Circuit 1 - "Button circuit" : This circuit runs from the 12v power supply (ie a live in the car somewhere), then through the button, then through the relay's coil, and finally to a ground in the car.<br /> <br /> ;Circuit 2 - "Solenoid circuit" : This circuit runs from the 12v power supply through the switching part of the relay, then through the solenoid, and finally to a ground in the car.<br /> <br /> What Circuit 1 does is when the button is pressed, it completes the circuit, and energises the coil in the relay. The energised coil closes the switch on the Circuit 2 part of the relay. Circuit 2 is now complete, so the solenoid is activated. Circuit 2 will remain complete until the button in Circuit 1 is released.<br /> <br /> [[Image:Circuit-diagram.jpg]]<br /> <br /> The numbers in the diagram above in the relay (the box at the top) correspond to the pins on the relay.<br /> ===The wiring===<br /> I decided to buy red and black cable and use the red for the 12v feed, and black for ground. I got 6m of both (and used a lot more of the red than black). How much cable you will use will entirely depend on where you decide to mount the solenoid in the engine bay, the relay and the button. Just unravel some cable and lay it out through the route you are going to send the wire before cutting some off. More about which wire goes where later.<br /> <br /> ==How to do it==<br /> NOTE: My car doesn't have insulation behind the bulk head covering as it isn't a "touring" model. Yours may well have insulation which you have the choice of removing first, or finding an alternative route for the wiring. An alternative might be the slight recess which the boot hinges attach to.<br /> <br /> #Remove both seats.<br /> #*The passenger seat has 4 allen bolts. The drivers seat has 2 hex bolts & two allen bots.<br /> #*Note: there is a small seat runner stop on the drivers seat. Don't loose it!<br /> #Undo the seat and top mounts of both the seatbelts.<br /> ##Undo the seatbelts from the side of the seats (requires a 17mm spanner).<br /> ##Unclip the plastic covers over the top seatbelt mounts.<br /> ##Unbolt top mount of the seatbelt from the rollover hoop (requires a T50 torx/star drive socket and a BIG socket wrench, as it is bloody tight!).<br /> #Remove the centre console storage pocket.<br /> ##Undo the screw at the bottom of the pocket from the top.<br /> ##Then undo the two screws you can see holding the lower part in.<br /> ##Carefully lift it out the way, and disconnect the plug on the back of the auxiliary power socket.<br /> #Remove the speakers.<br /> ##Unclip the cover over the speaker (if you have any), you may need a flat-head screwdriver to prize it off.<br /> ##Undo the securing screws holding the speaker in and carefully remove the speaker from the housing making sure you don't snag the speaker wires.<br /> ##Disconnect the wires to the speakers.<br /> #Remove the bulk head covering.<br /> ##Undo the 5 (?) screws / plugs securing the cover to the bulkhead. These may need persuading with a flat-head screwdriver to come out.<br /> ##The whole cover needs to be "manipulated", shall I say, to get it in/out of the car!<br /> ##Start at the bottom on one side near the seatbelt reels. You need to carefully bend the cover out from behind the roll-over bar cover.<br /> ##Once the bottom is out, work the top out in a similar way. It does need a bit of restrained brute force, but it will come out.<br /> ##Disconnect the connector on light in the middle of the panel before trying to remove it from the car entirely.<br /> #Drill a hole in the bulk head covering for your button.<br /> ##Decide where you want your button to be. I chose to put my button on the bit which covers the seatbelt reel - there was plenty of space here and it was easily accessible.<br /> ##Double check there is enough clearance in this button location.<br /> ##Measure your button and pick an appropriate sized drill bit to drill a hole.<br /> ##Create a bit of a dint for the drill bit with a pointy object, this will stop the drill bit skipping about (you may wish to drill a pilot hole first).<br /> ##It is only plastic so remember it wont take much to drill through. Also, don't get over-zealous with the drill, if you bugger this bit up you will notice it!<br /> ##Test fit your button and fettle the edges of the hole if you need to.<br /> #Drill a hole through the bulkhead for the wires to enter the engine bay.<br /> ##Check for any pre-existing holes in the bulkhead - I had one on the drivers about 6-8" to the right of where the speakers sit. I just made this slightly bigger.<br /> ##Check BOTH SIDES of where you are drilling.<br /> ##Choose a sensible sized drill bit large enough to fit 2 cables through.<br /> ##Use minimal pressure on the drill - it is only fibreglass it isn't especially resilient to a drill!<br /> ##Test fit a couple of cables to make sure they fit through easily enough - it doesn't need to be "tight", but at the same time it doesn't want to be as slack as Kerry Katona!<br /> #Important - If you haven't already done so, disconnect the battery (you might just be able to remove the fuse).<br /> #Splice a 12v and a ground "main" wire into the 12v and ground cables going to the auxiliary power socket.<br /> ##Cut through both of the 12v and ground wires - leave enough spare cable on the connector end to allow you to attach a blade connector (you might need to cut back the plastic tape stuff holding the two wires together - be careful when doing this).<br /> ##Strip and attach a couple of male blade connectors onto the bits of wire you left on the connector which connects to the auxiliary power socket.<br /> ##Decide approximately where you want your relay to live (against the bulkhead is a good idea), and unwind enough wire to run from this place to the aux power socket wires (plus a bit extra). Do this twice (one 12v, one ground).<br /> ##Strip and wind the ends of the car 12v wire and the new live cable leading to your relay. On the end of this attach a female spade connector. Repeat this for the ground cable.<br /> #Split/splice a short piece of cable onto the relay end of your new 12v wire: You need 2 live connections going into the relay, one onto pin 85 for the coil, the other going to pin 30 for the switch/solenoid.<br /> #Put a male or female blade connector on the end of your new ground wire.<br /> #Run 2 lengths of wire for your button.<br /> ##Run one wire from pin 86 on your relay to your button.<br /> ##Run another wire from the button to the your new ground wire.<br /> #Run a live and ground wire from the relay, through the bulkhead, to where you would like the solenoid to live in the engine bay.<br /> ##On the engine bay side of this cable attach a female blade connector to each wire.<br /> ##Check your solenoids connectors - if you need to replace the connectors with a male blade connector (this way you can switch the cables round if you connect them up and the solenoid moves the wrong way.<br /> #<br /> #<br /> <br /> ==Random Questions==<br /> ;What is a relay? : A relay is a method way of using a low current/voltage switch to safely connect/disconnect a higher current/voltage circuit, useful when switching motors etc on and off.<br /> <br /> ;How does a relay work? : Very simply - a low voltage circuit is used to provide power to a electromagnetic coil which, when active, will connect another higher voltage circuit.<br /> <br /> ;Why a relay? :You need a relay because you will burn the switch out with the current required to power the solenoid. If you put a switch into the low voltage coil circuit, by turning the switch on, you can control if the coil is on or not (thus connecting or disconnecting the high voltage circuit).</div>

Arisutea https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Remote_Boot_Release_for_S2&diff=9146 Remote Boot Release for S2 2011-04-17T18:35:09Z

<p>Arisutea: </p> <hr /> <div>There is a kit available from Elise Parts for an S1 remote boot release. However the lock mechanism is mounted on the engine cover on an S2, not on the car, so to use this kit on an S2 it would require mounting the solenoid etc. on the engine cover its self. This isn't something I wanted to do, so I used a bit of ingenuity and put something together myself.<br /> <br /> I (nor SELOC or anyone else) take any responsibility if you break your car as a result of following this guide. This is a guide, not a fool proof set of instructions, as such it should be used with this in mind. Be warned: it does involve some dicking about with the cars wiring, nothing major, but you have to get a 12v feed and an earth from somewhere. Remember to disconnect the battery before you start cutting wires!<br /> <br /> I did this mod on my '04 non-touring pack 111R.<br /> <br /> ==Shopping List==<br /> *2m of bicycle brake cable (both inner & outer parts)<br /> [[Image:bicycle-cable.jpg]]<br /> *2x bicycle brake cable adjuster<br /> [[Image:bicycle-cable-adjuster.jpg]]<br /> *Central Door Locking Solenoid - I used a [http://www.maplin.co.uk/door-lock-motors-12304 YD79L] from Maplins - it includes several things I used in this HowTo. Don't be tempted to buy a cheap kit from eBay that looks the same, I got one and it broke within 2 presses of the button<br /> [[Image:Yd79l.jpg]]<br /> *A button<br /> [[Image:button.jpg]]<br /> *A 4-pin 12v automotive relay - you need one which has an open switch when the coil is not energised, and closed when it is energised.<br /> [[Image:4-pin-12V-automotive-relay.jpg]]<br /> *Some male & female spade connectors<br /> *Some cable ties<br /> *Electrical insulation tape<br /> *Double sided tape / velcro<br /> *Some wire (I used about 6m or so of 7 amp wire, available from Halfrauds for about £3.79 per 6m reel). The amount you will use/need will depend on where you choose to get the power/ground from, where you want to locate your button, the solenoid and the relay.<br /> *Beers.<br /> <br /> ==Tools==<br /> *Screwdrivers<br /> *Cable cutters<br /> *Stanley knife / cable stripper<br /> *Pliers<br /> *Drill & drill bits<br /> *Allen keys<br /> *Socket set<br /> *Spanners<br /> *T50 torx/star drive socket<br /> *Sandpaper<br /> <br /> ==Wiring==<br /> The wiring required is pretty simple, but it is pretty important you understand it because if you connect the wrong thing to the other wrong thing there is a good chance you can do some damage to either your car or yourself. Before you start cutting wires, disconnect your battery.<br /> <br /> If you don't understand what a relay is or does, read the [http://wiki.seloc.org/a/Remote_Boot_Release_for_S2#Random_Questions Random Questions] bit of this page. It will hopefully make a lot more sense then.<br /> <br /> ===Ground and Live sources===<br /> There are a number of places you could get a ground and live connection in the car, but I am going to assume you are going to use the same place as me: the auxiliary power socket between the seats.<br /> <br /> Two wires run into the auxiliary power socket connector, a ground wire (black) and a 12v live wire (purple). You will need to splice another wire into both of these wires.<br /> <br /> "Why use the auxiliary power socket?" I hear you ask. Because it already uses a reasonable high ampage fuse (20 amps) so can take the current from using the solenoid easily. And the auxiliary socket circuit (in the car) isn't shared with anything else - so if you do cock it up, there isn't anything else you can fry on the same circuit. The interior light for example is shared with the alarm system (and you don't want to be messing with that!).<br /> <br /> ===The relay===<br /> The relay will have pins on it corresponding to the two circuits which run within it (the coil circuit and the switch circuit).<br /> <br /> I will assume your relay has the same numbers on is as mine does (If your relay does not have the same numbers on the pins, normally a small circuit diagram on the side of the relay will describe what each pin refers to).<br /> <br /> *Pin 85 - Coil live<br /> *Pin 86 - Coil ground<br /> *Pin 30 - Switch live<br /> *Pin 87 - Switch ground<br /> <br /> ===The circuits===<br /> Two simple circuits need to be made - one with a button in it, the other with the solenoid in it. Parts of both of these circuits run through the relay.<br /> <br /> If you can read a circuit diagram, you can probably make sense of this diagram. If you can't allow me to explain.<br /> <br /> ;Circuit 1 - "Button circuit" : This circuit runs from the 12v power supply (ie a live in the car somewhere), then through the button, then through the relay's coil, and finally to a ground in the car.<br /> <br /> ;Circuit 2 - "Solenoid circuit" : This circuit runs from the 12v power supply through the switching part of the relay, then through the solenoid, and finally to a ground in the car.<br /> <br /> What Circuit 1 does is when the button is pressed, it completes the circuit, and energises the coil in the relay. The energised coil closes the switch on the Circuit 2 part of the relay. Circuit 2 is now complete, so the solenoid is activated. Circuit 2 will remain complete until the button in Circuit 1 is released.<br /> <br /> [[Image:Circuit-diagram.jpg]]<br /> <br /> The numbers in the diagram above in the relay (the box at the top) correspond to the pins on the relay.<br /> ===The wiring===<br /> I decided to buy red and black cable and use the red for the 12v feed, and black for ground. I got 6m of both (and used a lot more of the red than black). How much cable you will use will entirely depend on where you decide to mount the solenoid in the engine bay, the relay and the button. Just unravel some cable and lay it out through the route you are going to send the wire before cutting some off. More about which wire goes where later.<br /> <br /> ==How to do it==<br /> NOTE: My car doesn't have insulation behind the bulk head covering as it isn't a "touring" model. Yours may well have insulation which you have the choice of removing first, or finding an alternative route for the wiring. An alternative might be the slight recess which the boot hinges attach to.<br /> <br /> #Remove both seats.<br /> #*The passenger seat has 4 allen bolts. The drivers seat has 2 hex bolts & two allen bots.<br /> #*Note: there is a small seat runner stop on the drivers seat. Don't loose it!<br /> #Undo the seat and top mounts of both the seatbelts.<br /> ##Undo the seatbelts from the side of the seats (requires a 17mm spanner).<br /> ##Unclip the plastic covers over the top seatbelt mounts.<br /> ##Unbolt top mount of the seatbelt from the rollover hoop (requires a T50 torx/star drive socket and a BIG socket wrench, as it is bloody tight!).<br /> #Remove the centre console storage pocket.<br /> ##Undo the screw at the bottom of the pocket from the top.<br /> ##Then undo the two screws you can see holding the lower part in.<br /> ##Carefully lift it out the way, and disconnect the plug on the back of the auxiliary power socket.<br /> #Remove the speakers.<br /> ##Unclip the cover over the speaker (if you have any), you may need a flat-head screwdriver to prize it off.<br /> ##Undo the securing screws holding the speaker in and carefully remove the speaker from the housing making sure you don't snag the speaker wires.<br /> ##Disconnect the wires to the speakers.<br /> #Remove the bulk head covering.<br /> ##Undo the 5 (?) screws / plugs securing the cover to the bulkhead. These may need persuading with a flat-head screwdriver to come out.<br /> ##The whole cover needs to be "manipulated", shall I say, to get it in/out of the car!<br /> ##Start at the bottom on one side near the seatbelt reels. You need to carefully bend the cover out from behind the roll-over bar cover.<br /> ##Once the bottom is out, work the top out in a similar way. It does need a bit of restrained brute force, but it will come out.<br /> ##Disconnect the connector on light in the middle of the panel before trying to remove it from the car entirely.<br /> #Drill a hole in the bulk head covering for your button.<br /> ##Decide where you want your button to be. I chose to put my button on the bit which covers the seatbelt reel - there was plenty of space here and it was easily accessible.<br /> ##Double check there is enough clearance in this button location.<br /> ##Measure your button and pick an appropriate sized drill bit to drill a hole.<br /> ##Create a bit of a dint for the drill bit with a pointy object, this will stop the drill bit skipping about (you may wish to drill a pilot hole first).<br /> ##It is only plastic so remember it wont take much to drill through. Also, don't get over-zealous with the drill, if you bugger this bit up you will notice it!<br /> ##Test fit your button and fettle the edges of the hole if you need to.<br /> #Drill a hole through the bulkhead for the wires to enter the engine bay.<br /> ##Check for any pre-existing holes in the bulkhead - I had one on the drivers about 6-8" to the right of where the speakers sit. I just made this slightly bigger.<br /> ##Check BOTH SIDES of where you are drilling.<br /> ##Choose a sensible sized drill bit large enough to fit 2 cables through.<br /> ##Use minimal pressure on the drill - it is only fibreglass it isn't especially resilient to a drill!<br /> ##Test fit a couple of cables to make sure they fit through easily enough - it doesn't need to be "tight", but at the same time it doesn't want to be as slack as Kerry Katona!<br /> #Important - If you haven't already done so, disconnect the battery (you might just be able to remove the fuse).<br /> #Splice a 12v and a ground "main" wire into the 12v and ground cables going to the auxiliary power socket.<br /> ##Cut through both of the 12v and ground wires - leave enough spare cable on the connector end to allow you to attach a blade connector (you might need to cut back the plastic tape stuff holding the two wires together - be careful when doing this).<br /> ##Strip and attach a couple of male blade connectors onto the bits of wire you left on the connector which connects to the auxiliary power socket.<br /> ##Decide approximately where you want your relay to live (against the bulkhead is a good idea), and unwind enough wire to run from this place to the aux power socket wires (plus a bit extra). Do this twice (one 12v, one ground).<br /> ##Strip and wind the ends of the car 12v wire and the new live cable leading to your relay. On the end of this attach a female spade connector. Repeat this for the ground cable.<br /> <br /> ==Random Questions==<br /> ;What is a relay? : A relay is a method way of using a low current/voltage switch to safely connect/disconnect a higher current/voltage circuit, useful when switching motors etc on and off.<br /> <br /> ;How does a relay work? : Very simply - a low voltage circuit is used to provide power to a electromagnetic coil which, when active, will connect another higher voltage circuit.<br /> <br /> ;Why a relay? :You need a relay because you will burn the switch out with the current required to power the solenoid. If you put a switch into the low voltage coil circuit, by turning the switch on, you can control if the coil is on or not (thus connecting or disconnecting the high voltage circuit).</div>

Arisutea https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Remote_Boot_Release_for_S2&diff=9144 Remote Boot Release for S2 2011-04-15T16:33:47Z

<p>Arisutea: /* How to do it */</p> <hr /> <div>There is a kit available from Elise Parts for an S1 remote boot release. However the lock mechanism is mounted on the engine cover on an S2, not on the car, so to use this kit on an S2 it would require mounting the solenoid etc. on the engine cover its self. This isn't something I wanted to do, so I used a bit of ingenuity and put something together myself.<br /> <br /> I (nor SELOC or anyone else) take any responsibility if you break your car as a result of following this guide. This is a guide, not a fool proof set of instructions, as such it should be used with this in mind. Be warned: it does involve some dicking about with the cars wiring, nothing major, but you have to get a 12v feed and an earth from somewhere. Remember to disconnect the battery before you start cutting cables!<br /> <br /> These aren't "step by step" "cut this here, tape that there, prod this under that" instructions, some element of ingenuity is required to put the pieces together!<br /> <br /> I did this mod on my '04 non-touring pack 111R.<br /> <br /> ==Shopping List==<br /> *2m of bicycle brake cable (both inner & outer parts)<br /> [[Image:bicycle-cable.jpg]]<br /> *2x bicycle brake cable adjuster<br /> [[Image:bicycle-cable-adjuster.jpg]]<br /> *Central Door Locking Solenoid - I used a [http://www.maplin.co.uk/door-lock-motors-12304 YD79L] from Maplins - it includes several things I used in this HowTo. Don't be tempted to buy a cheap kit from eBay that looks the same, I got one and it broke within 2 presses of the button<br /> [[Image:Yd79l.jpg]]<br /> *A button<br /> [[Image:button.jpg]]<br /> *A 4-pin 12v automotive relay - you need one which has an open switch when the coil is not energised, and closed when it is energised.<br /> [[Image:4-pin-12V-automotive-relay.jpg]]<br /> *Some male & female spade connectors<br /> *Some cable ties<br /> *Electrical insulation tape<br /> *Double sided tape / velcro<br /> *Some cable (I used about 6m or so of 7 amp cable, available from Halfrauds for about £3.79) The amount you will use/need will depend on where you choose to get the power/ground from, where you want to locate your button, the solenoid and the relay.<br /> *Beers.<br /> <br /> ==Tools==<br /> *Screwdrivers<br /> *Cable cutters<br /> *Stanley knife / cable stripper<br /> *Pliers<br /> *Drill & drill bits<br /> *Allen keys<br /> *Socket set<br /> *Spanners<br /> *T50 torx/star drive socket<br /> *Sandpaper<br /> <br /> ==Wiring==<br /> The wiring required is pretty simple, but it is pretty important you understand it because if you connect the wrong thing to the other wrong thing there is a good chance you can do some damage to either your car or yourself. Before you start cutting wires, disconnect your battery.<br /> <br /> If you don't understand what a relay is or does, read the [http://wiki.seloc.org/a/Remote_Boot_Release_for_S2#Random_Questions Random Questions] bit of this page. It will hopefully make a lot more sense then.<br /> <br /> ===Ground and Live sources===<br /> There are a number of places you could get a ground and live connection in the car, but I am going to assume you are going to use the same place as me: the auxiliary power socket between the seats.<br /> <br /> Two cables run into the auxiliary power socket connector, a ground cable (black) and a 12v live cable (purple). You will need to splice another cable into both of these cables.<br /> <br /> "Why use the auxiliary power socket?" I hear you ask. Because it already uses a reasonable high ampage fuse (20 amps) so can take the current from using the solenoid easily. And the circuit (in the car) isn't shared with anything else - so if you do cock it up, there isn't anything else you can fry on the same circuit. The interior light for example is shared with the alarm system (and you don't want to be messing with that!).<br /> <br /> ===The relay===<br /> The relay will have pins on it corresponding to the two circuits which run within it (the coil circuit and the switch circuit).<br /> <br /> I will assume your relay has the same numbers on is as mine does (If your relay does not have the same numbers on the pins, normally a small circuit diagram on the side of the relay will describe what each pin refers to).<br /> <br /> *Pin 85 - Coil live<br /> *Pin 86 - Coil ground<br /> *Pin 30 - Switch live<br /> *Pin 87 - Switch ground<br /> <br /> ===The circuits===<br /> Two simple circuits need to be made - one with a button in it, the other with the solenoid in it. Parts of both of these circuits run through the relay.<br /> <br /> If you can read a circuit diagram, you can probably make sense of this diagram. If you can't allow me to explain.<br /> <br /> ;Circuit 1 - "Button circuit" : This circuit runs from the 12v power supply (ie a live in the car somewhere), then through the button, then through the relay's coil, and finally to a ground in the car.<br /> <br /> ;Circuit 2 - "Solenoid circuit" : This circuit runs from the 12v power supply through the switching part of the relay, then through the solenoid, and finally to a ground in the car.<br /> <br /> What Circuit 1 does is when the button is pressed, it completes the circuit, and energises the coil in the relay. The energised coil closes the switch on the Circuit 2 part of the relay. Circuit 2 is now complete, so the solenoid is activated. Circuit 2 will remain complete until the button in Circuit 1 is released.<br /> <br /> [[Image:Circuit-diagram.jpg]]<br /> <br /> The numbers in the diagram above in the relay (the box at the top) correspond to the pins on the relay.<br /> ===The wiring===<br /> I decided to buy red and black cable and use the red for the 12v feed, and black for ground. I got 6m of both (and used a lot more of the red than black). I can't advise how longer cables you use, because this will entirely depend on where you decide to mount, the solenoid in the engine bay, the relay and the button.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> ==How to do it==<br /> NOTE: My car doesn't have insulation behind the bulk head covering as it isn't a "touring" model. Yours may well have insulation which you have the choice of removing first, or finding an alternative route for the wiring. An alternative might be the slight recess which the boot hinges attach to.<br /> <br /> #Remove both seats.<br /> #*The passenger seat has 4 allen bolts. The drivers seat has 2 hex bolts & two allen bots.<br /> #*Note: there is a small seat runner stop on the drivers seat. Don't loose it!<br /> #Undo the seat and top mounts of both the seatbelts.<br /> ##Undo the seatbelts from the side of the seats (requires a 17mm spanner).<br /> ##Unclip the plastic covers over the top seatbelt mounts.<br /> ##Unbolt top mount of the seatbelt from the rollover hoop (requires a T50 torx/star drive socket and a BIG socket wrench, as it is bloody tight!).<br /> #Remove the centre console storage pocket.<br /> ##Undo the screw at the bottom of the pocket from the top.<br /> ##Then undo the two screws you can see holding the lower part in.<br /> ##Carefully lift it out the way, and disconnect the plug on the back of the auxiliary power socket.<br /> #Remove the speakers.<br /> ##Unclip the cover over the speaker (if you have any), you may need a flat-head screwdriver to prize it off.<br /> ##Undo the securing screws holding the speaker in and carefully remove the speaker from the housing making sure you don't snag the speaker wires.<br /> ##Disconnect the wires to the speakers.<br /> #Remove the bulk head covering.<br /> ##Undo the 5 (?) screws / plugs securing the cover to the bulkhead. These may need persuading with a flat-head screwdriver to come out.<br /> ##The whole cover needs to be "manipulated", shall I say, to get it in/out of the car!<br /> ##Start at the bottom on one side near the seatbelt reels. You need to carefully bend the cover out from behind the roll-over bar cover.<br /> ##Once the bottom is out, work the top out in a similar way. It does need a bit of restrained brute force, but it will come out.<br /> ##Disconnect the connector on light in the middle of the panel before trying to remove it from the car entirely.<br /> #Drill a hole in the bulk head covering for your button.<br /> ##Decide where you want your button to be. I chose to put my button on the bit which covers the seatbelt reel - there was plenty of space here and it was easily accessible.<br /> ##Double check there is enough clearance in this button location.<br /> ##Measure your button and pick an appropriate sized drill bit to drill a hole.<br /> ##Create a bit of a dint for the drill bit with a pointy object, this will stop the drill bit skipping about (you may wish to drill a pilot hole first).<br /> ##It is only plastic so remember it wont take much to drill through. Also, don't get over-zealous with the drill, if you bugger this bit up you will notice it!<br /> ##Test fit your button and fettle the edges of the hole if you need to.<br /> #Drill a hole through the bulkhead for the wires to enter the engine bay.<br /> ##Check for any pre-existing holes in the bulkhead - I had one on the drivers about 6-8" to the right of where the speakers sit. I just made this slightly bigger.<br /> ##Check BOTH SIDES of where you are drilling.<br /> ##Choose a sensible sized drill bit large enough to fit 2 cables through.<br /> ##Use minimal pressure on the drill - it is only fibreglass it isn't especially resilient to a drill!<br /> ##Test fit a couple of cables to make sure they fit through easily enough - it doesn't need to be "tight", but at the same time it doesn't want to be as slack as Kerry Katona!<br /> #Important - If you haven't already done so, disconnect the battery (you might just be able to remove the fuse).<br /> #Splice a 12v and a ground "main" wire into the 12v and ground cables going to the auxiliary power socket.<br /> ##Cut through both of the 12v and ground wires - leave enough spare cable on the connector end to allow you to attach a blade connector (you might need to cut back the plastic tape stuff holding the two wires together - be careful when doing this).<br /> <br /> ==Random Questions==<br /> ;What is a relay? : A relay is a method way of using a low current/voltage switch to safely connect/disconnect a higher current/voltage circuit, useful when switching motors etc on and off.<br /> <br /> ;How does a relay work? : Very simply - a low voltage circuit is used to provide power to a electromagnetic coil which, when active, will connect another higher voltage circuit.<br /> <br /> ;Why a relay? :You need a relay because you will burn the switch out with the current required to power the solenoid. If you put a switch into the low voltage coil circuit, by turning the switch on, you can control if the coil is on or not (thus connecting or disconnecting the high voltage circuit).</div>

Arisutea https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Remote_Boot_Release_for_S2&diff=9143 Remote Boot Release for S2 2011-04-15T16:32:49Z

<p>Arisutea: </p> <hr /> <div>There is a kit available from Elise Parts for an S1 remote boot release. However the lock mechanism is mounted on the engine cover on an S2, not on the car, so to use this kit on an S2 it would require mounting the solenoid etc. on the engine cover its self. This isn't something I wanted to do, so I used a bit of ingenuity and put something together myself.<br /> <br /> I (nor SELOC or anyone else) take any responsibility if you break your car as a result of following this guide. This is a guide, not a fool proof set of instructions, as such it should be used with this in mind. Be warned: it does involve some dicking about with the cars wiring, nothing major, but you have to get a 12v feed and an earth from somewhere. Remember to disconnect the battery before you start cutting cables!<br /> <br /> These aren't "step by step" "cut this here, tape that there, prod this under that" instructions, some element of ingenuity is required to put the pieces together!<br /> <br /> I did this mod on my '04 non-touring pack 111R.<br /> <br /> ==Shopping List==<br /> *2m of bicycle brake cable (both inner & outer parts)<br /> [[Image:bicycle-cable.jpg]]<br /> *2x bicycle brake cable adjuster<br /> [[Image:bicycle-cable-adjuster.jpg]]<br /> *Central Door Locking Solenoid - I used a [http://www.maplin.co.uk/door-lock-motors-12304 YD79L] from Maplins - it includes several things I used in this HowTo. Don't be tempted to buy a cheap kit from eBay that looks the same, I got one and it broke within 2 presses of the button<br /> [[Image:Yd79l.jpg]]<br /> *A button<br /> [[Image:button.jpg]]<br /> *A 4-pin 12v automotive relay - you need one which has an open switch when the coil is not energised, and closed when it is energised.<br /> [[Image:4-pin-12V-automotive-relay.jpg]]<br /> *Some male & female spade connectors<br /> *Some cable ties<br /> *Electrical insulation tape<br /> *Double sided tape / velcro<br /> *Some cable (I used about 6m or so of 7 amp cable, available from Halfrauds for about £3.79) The amount you will use/need will depend on where you choose to get the power/ground from, where you want to locate your button, the solenoid and the relay.<br /> *Beers.<br /> <br /> ==Tools==<br /> *Screwdrivers<br /> *Cable cutters<br /> *Stanley knife / cable stripper<br /> *Pliers<br /> *Drill & drill bits<br /> *Allen keys<br /> *Socket set<br /> *Spanners<br /> *T50 torx/star drive socket<br /> *Sandpaper<br /> <br /> ==Wiring==<br /> The wiring required is pretty simple, but it is pretty important you understand it because if you connect the wrong thing to the other wrong thing there is a good chance you can do some damage to either your car or yourself. Before you start cutting wires, disconnect your battery.<br /> <br /> If you don't understand what a relay is or does, read the [http://wiki.seloc.org/a/Remote_Boot_Release_for_S2#Random_Questions Random Questions] bit of this page. It will hopefully make a lot more sense then.<br /> <br /> ===Ground and Live sources===<br /> There are a number of places you could get a ground and live connection in the car, but I am going to assume you are going to use the same place as me: the auxiliary power socket between the seats.<br /> <br /> Two cables run into the auxiliary power socket connector, a ground cable (black) and a 12v live cable (purple). You will need to splice another cable into both of these cables.<br /> <br /> "Why use the auxiliary power socket?" I hear you ask. Because it already uses a reasonable high ampage fuse (20 amps) so can take the current from using the solenoid easily. And the circuit (in the car) isn't shared with anything else - so if you do cock it up, there isn't anything else you can fry on the same circuit. The interior light for example is shared with the alarm system (and you don't want to be messing with that!).<br /> <br /> ===The relay===<br /> The relay will have pins on it corresponding to the two circuits which run within it (the coil circuit and the switch circuit).<br /> <br /> I will assume your relay has the same numbers on is as mine does (If your relay does not have the same numbers on the pins, normally a small circuit diagram on the side of the relay will describe what each pin refers to).<br /> <br /> *Pin 85 - Coil live<br /> *Pin 86 - Coil ground<br /> *Pin 30 - Switch live<br /> *Pin 87 - Switch ground<br /> <br /> ===The circuits===<br /> Two simple circuits need to be made - one with a button in it, the other with the solenoid in it. Parts of both of these circuits run through the relay.<br /> <br /> If you can read a circuit diagram, you can probably make sense of this diagram. If you can't allow me to explain.<br /> <br /> ;Circuit 1 - "Button circuit" : This circuit runs from the 12v power supply (ie a live in the car somewhere), then through the button, then through the relay's coil, and finally to a ground in the car.<br /> <br /> ;Circuit 2 - "Solenoid circuit" : This circuit runs from the 12v power supply through the switching part of the relay, then through the solenoid, and finally to a ground in the car.<br /> <br /> What Circuit 1 does is when the button is pressed, it completes the circuit, and energises the coil in the relay. The energised coil closes the switch on the Circuit 2 part of the relay. Circuit 2 is now complete, so the solenoid is activated. Circuit 2 will remain complete until the button in Circuit 1 is released.<br /> <br /> [[Image:Circuit-diagram.jpg]]<br /> <br /> The numbers in the diagram above in the relay (the box at the top) correspond to the pins on the relay.<br /> ===The wiring===<br /> I decided to buy red and black cable and use the red for the 12v feed, and black for ground. I got 6m of both (and used a lot more of the red than black). I can't advise how longer cables you use, because this will entirely depend on where you decide to mount, the solenoid in the engine bay, the relay and the button.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> ==How to do it==<br /> NOTE: My car doesn't have insulation behind the bulk head covering as it isn't a "touring" model. Yours may well have insulation which you have the choice of removing first, or finding an alternative route for the wiring. An alternative might be the slight recess which the boot hinges attach to.<br /> <br /> #Remove both seats.<br /> #*The passenger seat has 4 allen bolts. The drivers seat has 2 hex bolts & two allen bots.<br /> #*Note: there is a small seat runner stop on the drivers seat. Don't loose it!<br /> #Undo the seat and top mounts of both the seatbelts.<br /> ##Undo the seatbelts from the side of the seats (requires a 17mm spanner).<br /> ##Unclip the plastic covers over the top seatbelt mounts.<br /> ##Unbolt top mount of the seatbelt from the rollover hoop (requires a T50 torx/star drive socket and a BIG socket wrench, as it is bloody tight!).<br /> #Remove the centre console storage pocket.<br /> ##Undo the screw at the bottom of the pocket from the top.<br /> ##Then undo the two screws you can see holding the lower part in.<br /> ##Carefully lift it out the way, and disconnect the plug on the back of the auxiliary power socket.<br /> #Remove the speakers.<br /> ##Unclip the cover over the speaker (if you have any), you may need a flat-head screwdriver to prize it off.<br /> ##Undo the securing screws holding the speaker in and carefully remove the speaker from the housing making sure you don't snag the speaker wires.<br /> ##Disconnect the wires to the speakers.<br /> #Remove the bulk head covering.<br /> ##Undo the 5 (?) screws / plugs securing the cover to the bulkhead. These may need persuading with a flat-head screwdriver to come out.<br /> ##The whole cover needs to be "manipulated", shall I say, to get it in/out of the car!<br /> ##Start at the bottom on one side near the seatbelt reels. You need to carefully bend the cover out from behind the roll-over bar cover.<br /> ##Once the bottom is out, work the top out in a similar way. It does need a bit of restrained brute force, but it will come out.<br /> ##Disconnect the connector on light in the middle of the panel before trying to remove it from the car entirely.<br /> #Drill a hole in the bulk head covering for your button.<br /> ##Decide where you want your button to be. I chose to put my button on the bit which covers the seatbelt reel - there was plenty of space here and it was easily accessible.<br /> ##Double check there is enough clearance in this button location.<br /> ##Measure your button and pick an appropriate sized drill bit to drill a hole.<br /> ##Create a bit of a dint for the drill bit with a pointy object, this will stop the drill bit skipping about (you may wish to drill a pilot hole first).<br /> ##It is only plastic so remember it wont take much to drill through. Also, don't get over-zealous with the drill, if you bugger this bit up you will notice it!<br /> ##Test fit your button and fettle the edges of the hole if you need to.<br /> #Drill a hole through the bulkhead for the wires to enter the engine bay.<br /> ##Check for any pre-existing holes in the bulkhead - I had one on the drivers about 6-8" to the right of where the speakers sit. I just made this slightly bigger.<br /> ##Check BOTH SIDES of where you are drilling.<br /> ##Choose a sensible sized drill bit large enough to fit 2 cables through.<br /> ##Use minimal pressure on the drill - it is only fibreglass it isn't especially resilient to a drill!<br /> ##Test fit a couple of cables to make sure they fit through easily enough - it doesn't need to be "tight", but at the same time it doesn't want to be as slack as Kerry Katona!<br /> #Important - If you haven't already done so, disconnect the battery (you might just be able to remove the fuse).<br /> #Splice a 12v and a ground "main" wire into the 12v and ground cables going to the auxiliary power socket - you are going to connect everything else to one of these two cables, that way you only need remove 2 cables from the car should you ever want to reverse this.<br /> ##Cut through both of the 12v and ground wires - leave enough spare cable on the connector end to allow you to attach a blade connector (you might need to cut back the plastic tape stuff holding the two wires together - be careful when doing this).<br /> <br /> ==Random Questions==<br /> ;What is a relay? : A relay is a method way of using a low current/voltage switch to safely connect/disconnect a higher current/voltage circuit, useful when switching motors etc on and off.<br /> <br /> ;How does a relay work? : Very simply - a low voltage circuit is used to provide power to a electromagnetic coil which, when active, will connect another higher voltage circuit.<br /> <br /> ;Why a relay? :You need a relay because you will burn the switch out with the current required to power the solenoid. If you put a switch into the low voltage coil circuit, by turning the switch on, you can control if the coil is on or not (thus connecting or disconnecting the high voltage circuit).</div>

Arisutea https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Remote_Boot_Release_for_S2&diff=9141 Remote Boot Release for S2 2011-04-11T19:00:23Z

<p>Arisutea: /* How to do it */</p> <hr /> <div>There is a kit available from Elise Parts for an S1 remote boot release. However the lock mechanism is mounted on the engine cover on an S2, not on the car, so to use this kit on an S2 it would require mounting the solenoid etc. on the engine cover its self. This isn't something I wanted to do, so I used a bit of ingenuity and put something together myself.<br /> <br /> I (nor SELOC or anyone else) take any responsibility if you break your car as a result of following this guide. This is a guide, not a fool proof set of instructions, as such it should be used with this in mind. Be warned: it does involve some dicking about with the cars wiring, nothing major, but you have to get a 12v feed and an earth from somewhere. Remember to disconnect the battery before you start cutting cables!<br /> <br /> These aren't "step by step" "cut this here, tape that there, prod this under that" instructions, some element of ingenuity is required to put the pieces together!<br /> <br /> I did this mod on my '04 non-touring pack 111R.<br /> <br /> ==Shopping List==<br /> *2m of bicycle brake cable (both inner & outer parts)<br /> [[Image:bicycle-cable.jpg]]<br /> *2x bicycle brake cable adjuster<br /> [[Image:bicycle-cable-adjuster.jpg]]<br /> *Central Door Locking Solenoid - I used a [http://www.maplin.co.uk/door-lock-motors-12304 YD79L] from Maplins - it includes several things I used in this HowTo. Don't be tempted to buy a cheap kit from eBay that looks the same, I got one and it broke within 2 presses of the button<br /> [[Image:Yd79l.jpg]]<br /> *A button<br /> [[Image:button.jpg]]<br /> *A 4-pin 12v automotive relay - you need one which has an open switch when the coil is not energised, and closed when it is energised.<br /> [[Image:4-pin-12V-automotive-relay.jpg]]<br /> *Some male & female spade connectors<br /> *Some cable ties<br /> *Electrical insulation tape<br /> *Double sided tape / velcro<br /> *Some cable (I used about 6m or so of 7 amp cable, available from Halfrauds for about £3.79) The amount you will use/need will depend on where you choose to get the power/ground from, where you want to locate your button, the solenoid and the relay.<br /> *Beers.<br /> <br /> ==Tools==<br /> *Screwdrivers<br /> *Cable cutters<br /> *Stanley knife / cable stripper<br /> *Pliers<br /> *Drill & drill bits<br /> *Allen keys<br /> *Socket set<br /> *Spanners<br /> *T50 torx/star drive socket<br /> *Sandpaper<br /> <br /> ==Wiring==<br /> The wiring required is pretty simple, but it is pretty important you understand it because if you connect the wrong thing to the other wrong thing there is a good chance you can do some damage to either your car or yourself. Before you start cutting wires, disconnect your battery.<br /> <br /> If you don't understand what a relay is or does, read the [http://wiki.seloc.org/a/Remote_Boot_Release_for_S2#Random_Questions Random Questions] bit of this page. It will hopefully make a lot more sense then.<br /> <br /> ===Ground and Live sources===<br /> There are a number of places you could get a ground and live connection in the car, but I am going to assume you are going to use the same place as me: the auxiliary power socket between the seats.<br /> <br /> Two cables run into the auxiliary power socket connector, a ground cable (black) and a 12v live cable (purple). You will need to splice another cable into both of these cables.<br /> <br /> "Why use the auxiliary power socket?" I hear you ask. Because it already uses a reasonable high ampage fuse (20 amps) so can take the current from using the solenoid easily. And the circuit (in the car) isn't shared with anything else - so if you do cock it up, there isn't anything else you can fry on the same circuit. The interior light for example is shared with the alarm system (and you don't want to be messing with that!).<br /> <br /> ===The relay===<br /> The relay will have pins on it corresponding to the two circuits which run within it (the coil circuit and the switch circuit).<br /> <br /> I will assume your relay has the same numbers on is as mine does (If your relay does not have the same numbers on the pins, normally a small circuit diagram on the side of the relay will describe what each pin refers to).<br /> <br /> *Pin 85 - Coil live<br /> *Pin 86 - Coil ground<br /> *Pin 30 - Switch live<br /> *Pin 87 - Switch ground<br /> <br /> ===The circuits===<br /> Two simple circuits need to be made - one with a button in it, the other with the solenoid in it. Parts of both of these circuits run through the relay.<br /> <br /> If you can read a circuit diagram, you can probably make sense of this diagram. If you can't allow me to explain.<br /> <br /> ;Circuit 1 - "Button circuit" : This circuit runs from the 12v power supply (ie a live in the car somewhere), then through the button, then through the relay's coil, and finally to a ground in the car.<br /> <br /> ;Circuit 2 - "Solenoid circuit" : This circuit runs from the 12v power supply through the switching part of the relay, then through the solenoid, and finally to a ground in the car.<br /> <br /> What Circuit 1 does is when the button is pressed, it completes the circuit, and energises the coil in the relay. The energised coil closes the switch on the Circuit 2 part of the relay. Circuit 2 is now complete, so the solenoid is activated. Circuit 2 will remain complete until the button in Circuit 1 is released.<br /> <br /> [[Image:Circuit-diagram.jpg]]<br /> <br /> The numbers in the diagram above in the relay (the box at the top) correspond to the pins on the relay.<br /> <br /> ==How to do it==<br /> NOTE: My car doesn't have insulation behind the bulk head covering as it isn't a "touring" model. Yours may well have insulation which you have the choice of removing first, or finding an alternative route for the wiring. An alternative might be the slight recess which the boot hinges attach to.<br /> <br /> #Remove both seats.<br /> #*The passenger seat has 4 allen bolts. The drivers seat has 2 hex bolts & two allen bots.<br /> #*Note: there is a small seat runner stop on the drivers seat. Don't loose it!<br /> #Undo the seat and top mounts of both the seatbelts.<br /> ##Undo the seatbelts from the side of the seats (requires a 17mm spanner).<br /> ##Unclip the plastic covers over the top seatbelt mounts.<br /> ##Unbolt top mount of the seatbelt from the rollover hoop (requires a T50 torx/star drive socket and a BIG socket wrench, as it is bloody tight!).<br /> #Remove the centre console storage pocket.<br /> ##Undo the screw at the bottom of the pocket from the top.<br /> ##Then undo the two screws you can see holding the lower part in.<br /> ##Carefully lift it out the way, and disconnect the plug on the back of the auxiliary power socket.<br /> #Remove the speakers.<br /> ##Unclip the cover over the speaker (if you have any), you may need a flat-head screwdriver to prize it off.<br /> ##Undo the securing screws holding the speaker in and carefully remove the speaker from the housing making sure you don't snag the speaker wires.<br /> ##Disconnect the wires to the speakers.<br /> #Remove the bulk head covering.<br /> ##Undo the 5 (?) screws / plugs securing the cover to the bulkhead. These may need persuading with a flat-head screwdriver to come out.<br /> ##The whole cover needs to be "manipulated", shall I say, to get it in/out of the car!<br /> ##Start at the bottom on one side near the seatbelt reels. You need to carefully bend the cover out from behind the roll-over bar cover.<br /> ##Once the bottom is out, work the top out in a similar way. It does need a bit of restrained brute force, but it will come out.<br /> ##Disconnect the connector on light in the middle of the panel before trying to remove it from the car entirely.<br /> #Drill a hole in the bulk head covering for your button.<br /> ##Decide where you want your button to be. I chose to put my button on the bit which covers the seatbelt reel - there was plenty of space here and it was easily accessible.<br /> ##Double check there is enough clearance in this button location.<br /> ##Measure your button and pick an appropriate sized drill bit to drill a hole.<br /> ##Create a bit of a dint for the drill bit with a pointy object, this will stop the drill bit skipping about (you may wish to drill a pilot hole first).<br /> ##It is only plastic so remember it wont take much to drill through. Also, don't get over-zealous with the drill, if you bugger this bit up you will notice it!<br /> ##Test fit your button and fettle the edges of the hole if you need to.<br /> #Drill a hole through the bulkhead for the wires to enter the engine bay.<br /> ##Check for any pre-existing holes in the bulkhead - I had one on the drivers about 6-8" to the right of where the speakers sit. I just made this slightly bigger.<br /> ##Check BOTH SIDES of where you are drilling.<br /> ##Choose a sensible sized drill bit large enough to fit 2 cables through.<br /> ##Use minimal pressure on the drill - it is only fibreglass it isn't especially resilient to a drill!<br /> ##Test fit a couple of cables to make sure they fit through easily enough - it doesn't need to be "tight", but at the same time it doesn't want to be as slack as Kerry Katona!<br /> <br /> ==Random Questions==<br /> ;What is a relay? : A relay is a method way of using a low current/voltage switch to safely connect/disconnect a higher current/voltage circuit, useful when switching motors etc on and off.<br /> <br /> ;How does a relay work? : Very simply - a low voltage circuit is used to provide power to a electromagnetic coil which, when active, will connect another higher voltage circuit.<br /> <br /> ;Why a relay? :You need a relay because you will burn the switch out with the current required to power the solenoid. If you put a switch into the low voltage coil circuit, by turning the switch on, you can control if the coil is on or not (thus connecting or disconnecting the high voltage circuit).</div>

Arisutea https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Remote_Boot_Release_for_S2&diff=9140 Remote Boot Release for S2 2011-04-11T18:57:11Z

<p>Arisutea: /* How to do it */</p> <hr /> <div>There is a kit available from Elise Parts for an S1 remote boot release. However the lock mechanism is mounted on the engine cover on an S2, not on the car, so to use this kit on an S2 it would require mounting the solenoid etc. on the engine cover its self. This isn't something I wanted to do, so I used a bit of ingenuity and put something together myself.<br /> <br /> I (nor SELOC or anyone else) take any responsibility if you break your car as a result of following this guide. This is a guide, not a fool proof set of instructions, as such it should be used with this in mind. Be warned: it does involve some dicking about with the cars wiring, nothing major, but you have to get a 12v feed and an earth from somewhere. Remember to disconnect the battery before you start cutting cables!<br /> <br /> These aren't "step by step" "cut this here, tape that there, prod this under that" instructions, some element of ingenuity is required to put the pieces together!<br /> <br /> I did this mod on my '04 non-touring pack 111R.<br /> <br /> ==Shopping List==<br /> *2m of bicycle brake cable (both inner & outer parts)<br /> [[Image:bicycle-cable.jpg]]<br /> *2x bicycle brake cable adjuster<br /> [[Image:bicycle-cable-adjuster.jpg]]<br /> *Central Door Locking Solenoid - I used a [http://www.maplin.co.uk/door-lock-motors-12304 YD79L] from Maplins - it includes several things I used in this HowTo. Don't be tempted to buy a cheap kit from eBay that looks the same, I got one and it broke within 2 presses of the button<br /> [[Image:Yd79l.jpg]]<br /> *A button<br /> [[Image:button.jpg]]<br /> *A 4-pin 12v automotive relay - you need one which has an open switch when the coil is not energised, and closed when it is energised.<br /> [[Image:4-pin-12V-automotive-relay.jpg]]<br /> *Some male & female spade connectors<br /> *Some cable ties<br /> *Electrical insulation tape<br /> *Double sided tape / velcro<br /> *Some cable (I used about 6m or so of 7 amp cable, available from Halfrauds for about £3.79) The amount you will use/need will depend on where you choose to get the power/ground from, where you want to locate your button, the solenoid and the relay.<br /> *Beers.<br /> <br /> ==Tools==<br /> *Screwdrivers<br /> *Cable cutters<br /> *Stanley knife / cable stripper<br /> *Pliers<br /> *Drill & drill bits<br /> *Allen keys<br /> *Socket set<br /> *Spanners<br /> *T50 torx/star drive socket<br /> *Sandpaper<br /> <br /> ==Wiring==<br /> The wiring required is pretty simple, but it is pretty important you understand it because if you connect the wrong thing to the other wrong thing there is a good chance you can do some damage to either your car or yourself. Before you start cutting wires, disconnect your battery.<br /> <br /> If you don't understand what a relay is or does, read the [http://wiki.seloc.org/a/Remote_Boot_Release_for_S2#Random_Questions Random Questions] bit of this page. It will hopefully make a lot more sense then.<br /> <br /> ===Ground and Live sources===<br /> There are a number of places you could get a ground and live connection in the car, but I am going to assume you are going to use the same place as me: the auxiliary power socket between the seats.<br /> <br /> Two cables run into the auxiliary power socket connector, a ground cable (black) and a 12v live cable (purple). You will need to splice another cable into both of these cables.<br /> <br /> "Why use the auxiliary power socket?" I hear you ask. Because it already uses a reasonable high ampage fuse (20 amps) so can take the current from using the solenoid easily. And the circuit (in the car) isn't shared with anything else - so if you do cock it up, there isn't anything else you can fry on the same circuit. The interior light for example is shared with the alarm system (and you don't want to be messing with that!).<br /> <br /> ===The relay===<br /> The relay will have pins on it corresponding to the two circuits which run within it (the coil circuit and the switch circuit).<br /> <br /> I will assume your relay has the same numbers on is as mine does (If your relay does not have the same numbers on the pins, normally a small circuit diagram on the side of the relay will describe what each pin refers to).<br /> <br /> *Pin 85 - Coil live<br /> *Pin 86 - Coil ground<br /> *Pin 30 - Switch live<br /> *Pin 87 - Switch ground<br /> <br /> ===The circuits===<br /> Two simple circuits need to be made - one with a button in it, the other with the solenoid in it. Parts of both of these circuits run through the relay.<br /> <br /> If you can read a circuit diagram, you can probably make sense of this diagram. If you can't allow me to explain.<br /> <br /> ;Circuit 1 - "Button circuit" : This circuit runs from the 12v power supply (ie a live in the car somewhere), then through the button, then through the relay's coil, and finally to a ground in the car.<br /> <br /> ;Circuit 2 - "Solenoid circuit" : This circuit runs from the 12v power supply through the switching part of the relay, then through the solenoid, and finally to a ground in the car.<br /> <br /> What Circuit 1 does is when the button is pressed, it completes the circuit, and energises the coil in the relay. The energised coil closes the switch on the Circuit 2 part of the relay. Circuit 2 is now complete, so the solenoid is activated. Circuit 2 will remain complete until the button in Circuit 1 is released.<br /> <br /> [[Image:Circuit-diagram.jpg]]<br /> <br /> The numbers in the diagram above in the relay (the box at the top) correspond to the pins on the relay.<br /> <br /> ==How to do it==<br /> NOTE: My car doesn't have insulation behind the bulk head covering as it isn't a "touring" model. Yours may well have insulation which you have the choice of removing first, or finding an alternative route for the wiring. An alternative might be the slight recess which the boot hinges attach to.<br /> <br /> #Remove both seats.<br /> #*The passenger seat has 4 allen bolts. The drivers seat has 2 hex bolts & two allen bots.<br /> #*Note: there is a small seat runner stop on the drivers seat. Don't loose it!<br /> #Undo the seat and top mounts of both the seatbelts.<br /> ##Undo the seatbelts from the side of the seats (requires a 17mm spanner).<br /> ##Unclip the plastic covers over the top seatbelt mounts.<br /> ##Unbolt top mount of the seatbelt from the rollover hoop (requires a T50 torx/star drive socket and a BIG socket wrench, as it is bloody tight!).<br /> #Remove the centre console storage pocket.<br /> ##Undo the screw at the bottom of the pocket from the top.<br /> ##Then undo the two screws you can see holding the lower part in.<br /> ##Carefully lift it out the way, and disconnect the plug on the back of the auxiliary power socket.<br /> #Remove the speakers<br /> ##Unclip the cover over the speaker (if you have any), you may need a flat-head screwdriver to prize it off.<br /> ##Undo the securing screws holding the speaker in and carefully remove the speaker from the housing making sure you don't snag the speaker wires.<br /> ##Disconnect the wires to the speakers.<br /> #Remove the bulk head covering<br /> ##Undo the 5 (?) screws / plugs securing the cover to the bulkhead. These may need persuading with a flat-head screwdriver to come out.<br /> ##The whole cover needs to be "manipulated", shall I say, to get it in/out of the car!<br /> ##Start at the bottom on one side near the seatbelt reels. You need to carefully bend the cover out from behind the roll-over bar cover.<br /> ##Once the bottom is out, work the top out in a similar way. It does need a bit of restrained brute force, but it will come out.<br /> ##Disconnect the connector on light in the middle of the panel before trying to remove it from the car entirely.<br /> #Drill a hole in the bulk head covering for your button<br /> ##Decide where you want your button to be. I chose to put my button on the bit which covers the seatbelt reel - there was plenty of space here and it was easily accessible.<br /> ##Double check there is enough clearance in this button location<br /> ##Measure your button and pick an appropriate sized drill bit to drill a hole<br /> ##Create a bit of a dint for the drill bit with a pointy object, this will stop the drill bit skipping about (you may wish to drill a pilot hole first)<br /> ##It is only plastic so remember it wont take much to drill through. Also, don't get over-zealous with the drill, if you bugger this bit up you will notice it!<br /> ##Test fit your button and fettle the edges of the hole if you need to.<br /> #Drill a hole through the bulkhead for the wires to enter the engine bay<br /> ##Check for any pre-existing holes in the bulkhead - I had one on the drivers about 6-8" to the right of where the speakers sit. I just made this slightly bigger<br /> ##Check BOTH SIDES of where you are drilling<br /> ##Choose a sensible sized drill bit large enough to fit 2 cables through<br /> ##Use minimal pressure on the drill - it is only fibreglass it isn't especially resilient to a drill!<br /> ##Test fit a couple of cables to make sure they fit through easily enough - it doesn't need to be "tight", but at the same time it doesn't want to be as slack as Kerry Katona!<br /> <br /> ==Random Questions==<br /> ;What is a relay? : A relay is a method way of using a low current/voltage switch to safely connect/disconnect a higher current/voltage circuit, useful when switching motors etc on and off.<br /> <br /> ;How does a relay work? : Very simply - a low voltage circuit is used to provide power to a electromagnetic coil which, when active, will connect another higher voltage circuit.<br /> <br /> ;Why a relay? :You need a relay because you will burn the switch out with the current required to power the solenoid. If you put a switch into the low voltage coil circuit, by turning the switch on, you can control if the coil is on or not (thus connecting or disconnecting the high voltage circuit).</div>

Arisutea https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Remote_Boot_Release_for_S2&diff=9139 Remote Boot Release for S2 2011-04-11T18:55:06Z

<p>Arisutea: /* How to do it */</p> <hr /> <div>There is a kit available from Elise Parts for an S1 remote boot release. However the lock mechanism is mounted on the engine cover on an S2, not on the car, so to use this kit on an S2 it would require mounting the solenoid etc. on the engine cover its self. This isn't something I wanted to do, so I used a bit of ingenuity and put something together myself.<br /> <br /> I (nor SELOC or anyone else) take any responsibility if you break your car as a result of following this guide. This is a guide, not a fool proof set of instructions, as such it should be used with this in mind. Be warned: it does involve some dicking about with the cars wiring, nothing major, but you have to get a 12v feed and an earth from somewhere. Remember to disconnect the battery before you start cutting cables!<br /> <br /> These aren't "step by step" "cut this here, tape that there, prod this under that" instructions, some element of ingenuity is required to put the pieces together!<br /> <br /> I did this mod on my '04 non-touring pack 111R.<br /> <br /> ==Shopping List==<br /> *2m of bicycle brake cable (both inner & outer parts)<br /> [[Image:bicycle-cable.jpg]]<br /> *2x bicycle brake cable adjuster<br /> [[Image:bicycle-cable-adjuster.jpg]]<br /> *Central Door Locking Solenoid - I used a [http://www.maplin.co.uk/door-lock-motors-12304 YD79L] from Maplins - it includes several things I used in this HowTo. Don't be tempted to buy a cheap kit from eBay that looks the same, I got one and it broke within 2 presses of the button<br /> [[Image:Yd79l.jpg]]<br /> *A button<br /> [[Image:button.jpg]]<br /> *A 4-pin 12v automotive relay - you need one which has an open switch when the coil is not energised, and closed when it is energised.<br /> [[Image:4-pin-12V-automotive-relay.jpg]]<br /> *Some male & female spade connectors<br /> *Some cable ties<br /> *Electrical insulation tape<br /> *Double sided tape / velcro<br /> *Some cable (I used about 6m or so of 7 amp cable, available from Halfrauds for about £3.79) The amount you will use/need will depend on where you choose to get the power/ground from, where you want to locate your button, the solenoid and the relay.<br /> *Beers.<br /> <br /> ==Tools==<br /> *Screwdrivers<br /> *Cable cutters<br /> *Stanley knife / cable stripper<br /> *Pliers<br /> *Drill & drill bits<br /> *Allen keys<br /> *Socket set<br /> *Spanners<br /> *T50 torx/star drive socket<br /> *Sandpaper<br /> <br /> ==Wiring==<br /> The wiring required is pretty simple, but it is pretty important you understand it because if you connect the wrong thing to the other wrong thing there is a good chance you can do some damage to either your car or yourself. Before you start cutting wires, disconnect your battery.<br /> <br /> If you don't understand what a relay is or does, read the [http://wiki.seloc.org/a/Remote_Boot_Release_for_S2#Random_Questions Random Questions] bit of this page. It will hopefully make a lot more sense then.<br /> <br /> ===Ground and Live sources===<br /> There are a number of places you could get a ground and live connection in the car, but I am going to assume you are going to use the same place as me: the auxiliary power socket between the seats.<br /> <br /> Two cables run into the auxiliary power socket connector, a ground cable (black) and a 12v live cable (purple). You will need to splice another cable into both of these cables.<br /> <br /> "Why use the auxiliary power socket?" I hear you ask. Because it already uses a reasonable high ampage fuse (20 amps) so can take the current from using the solenoid easily. And the circuit (in the car) isn't shared with anything else - so if you do cock it up, there isn't anything else you can fry on the same circuit. The interior light for example is shared with the alarm system (and you don't want to be messing with that!).<br /> <br /> ===The relay===<br /> The relay will have pins on it corresponding to the two circuits which run within it (the coil circuit and the switch circuit).<br /> <br /> I will assume your relay has the same numbers on is as mine does (If your relay does not have the same numbers on the pins, normally a small circuit diagram on the side of the relay will describe what each pin refers to).<br /> <br /> *Pin 85 - Coil live<br /> *Pin 86 - Coil ground<br /> *Pin 30 - Switch live<br /> *Pin 87 - Switch ground<br /> <br /> ===The circuits===<br /> Two simple circuits need to be made - one with a button in it, the other with the solenoid in it. Parts of both of these circuits run through the relay.<br /> <br /> If you can read a circuit diagram, you can probably make sense of this diagram. If you can't allow me to explain.<br /> <br /> ;Circuit 1 - "Button circuit" : This circuit runs from the 12v power supply (ie a live in the car somewhere), then through the button, then through the relay's coil, and finally to a ground in the car.<br /> <br /> ;Circuit 2 - "Solenoid circuit" : This circuit runs from the 12v power supply through the switching part of the relay, then through the solenoid, and finally to a ground in the car.<br /> <br /> What Circuit 1 does is when the button is pressed, it completes the circuit, and energises the coil in the relay. The energised coil closes the switch on the Circuit 2 part of the relay. Circuit 2 is now complete, so the solenoid is activated. Circuit 2 will remain complete until the button in Circuit 1 is released.<br /> <br /> [[Image:Circuit-diagram.jpg]]<br /> <br /> The numbers in the diagram above in the relay (the box at the top) correspond to the pins on the relay.<br /> <br /> ==How to do it==<br /> NOTE: My car doesn't have insulation behind the bulk head covering as it isn't a "touring" model. Yours may well have insulation which you have the choice of removing first, or finding an alternative route for the wiring. An alternative might be the slight recess which the boot hinges attach to.<br /> <br /> #Remove both seats.<br /> #*The passenger seat has 4 allen bolts. The drivers seat has 2 hex bolts & two allen bots.<br /> #*Note: there is a small seat runner stop on the drivers seat. Don't loose it!<br /> #Undo the seat and top mounts of both the seatbelts.<br /> ##Undo the seatbelts from the side of the seats (requires a 17mm spanner).<br /> ##Unclip the plastic covers over the top seatbelt mounts.<br /> ##Unbolt top mount of the seatbelt from the rollover hoop (requires a T50 torx/star drive socket and a BIG socket wrench, as it is bloody tight!).<br /> #Remove the centre console storage pocket.<br /> ##Undo the screw at the bottom of the pocket from the top.<br /> ##Then undo the two screws you can see holding the lower part in.<br /> ##Carefully lift it out the way, and disconnect the plug on the back of the auxiliary power socket.<br /> #Remove the speakers<br /> ##Unclip the cover over the speaker (if you have any), you may need a flat-head screwdriver to prize it off.<br /> ##Undo the securing screws holding the speaker in and carefully remove the speaker from the housing making sure you don't snag the speaker wires.<br /> ##Disconnect the wires to the speakers.<br /> #Remove the bulk head covering<br /> ##Undo the 5 (?) screws / plugs securing the cover to the bulkhead. These may need persuading with a flat-head screwdriver to come out.<br /> ##The whole cover needs to be "manipulated", shall I say, to get it in/out of the car!<br /> ##Start at the bottom on one side near the seatbelt reels. You need to carefully bend the cover out from behind the roll-over bar cover.<br /> ##Once the bottom is out, work the top out in a similar way. It does need a bit of restrained brute force, but it will come out.<br /> ##Disconnect the connector on light in the middle of the panel before trying to remove it from the car entirely.<br /> #Drill a hole in the bulk head covering for your button<br /> ##Decide where you want your button to be. I chose to put my button on the bit which covers the seatbelt reel - there was plenty of space here and it was easily accessible.<br /> ##Double check there is enough clearance in this button location<br /> ##Measure your button and pick an appropriate sized drill bit to drill a hole<br /> ##Create a bit of a dint for the drill bit with a pointy object, this will stop the drill bit skipping about (you may wish to drill a pilot hole first)<br /> ##It is only plastic so remember it wont take much to drill through. Also, don't get over-zealous with the drill, if you bugger this bit up you will notice it!<br /> ##Test fit your button and fettle the edges of the hole if you need to.<br /> #Drill a hole through the bulkhead for the wires to enter the engine bay<br /> ##Check for any pre-existing holes in the bulkhead - I had one on the drivers about 6-8" to the right of where the speakers sit. I just made this slightly bigger<br /> ##Check BOTH SIDES of where you are drilling<br /> ##Choose a sensible sized drill bit large enough to fit 2 cables through<br /> ##Use minimal pressure on the drill - it is only fibreglass it isn't especially resilient to a drill!<br /> <br /> ==Random Questions==<br /> ;What is a relay? : A relay is a method way of using a low current/voltage switch to safely connect/disconnect a higher current/voltage circuit, useful when switching motors etc on and off.<br /> <br /> ;How does a relay work? : Very simply - a low voltage circuit is used to provide power to a electromagnetic coil which, when active, will connect another higher voltage circuit.<br /> <br /> ;Why a relay? :You need a relay because you will burn the switch out with the current required to power the solenoid. If you put a switch into the low voltage coil circuit, by turning the switch on, you can control if the coil is on or not (thus connecting or disconnecting the high voltage circuit).</div>

Arisutea https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Remote_Boot_Release_for_S2&diff=9138 Remote Boot Release for S2 2011-04-11T18:43:52Z

<p>Arisutea: /* Tools */</p> <hr /> <div>There is a kit available from Elise Parts for an S1 remote boot release. However the lock mechanism is mounted on the engine cover on an S2, not on the car, so to use this kit on an S2 it would require mounting the solenoid etc. on the engine cover its self. This isn't something I wanted to do, so I used a bit of ingenuity and put something together myself.<br /> <br /> I (nor SELOC or anyone else) take any responsibility if you break your car as a result of following this guide. This is a guide, not a fool proof set of instructions, as such it should be used with this in mind. Be warned: it does involve some dicking about with the cars wiring, nothing major, but you have to get a 12v feed and an earth from somewhere. Remember to disconnect the battery before you start cutting cables!<br /> <br /> These aren't "step by step" "cut this here, tape that there, prod this under that" instructions, some element of ingenuity is required to put the pieces together!<br /> <br /> I did this mod on my '04 non-touring pack 111R.<br /> <br /> ==Shopping List==<br /> *2m of bicycle brake cable (both inner & outer parts)<br /> [[Image:bicycle-cable.jpg]]<br /> *2x bicycle brake cable adjuster<br /> [[Image:bicycle-cable-adjuster.jpg]]<br /> *Central Door Locking Solenoid - I used a [http://www.maplin.co.uk/door-lock-motors-12304 YD79L] from Maplins - it includes several things I used in this HowTo. Don't be tempted to buy a cheap kit from eBay that looks the same, I got one and it broke within 2 presses of the button<br /> [[Image:Yd79l.jpg]]<br /> *A button<br /> [[Image:button.jpg]]<br /> *A 4-pin 12v automotive relay - you need one which has an open switch when the coil is not energised, and closed when it is energised.<br /> [[Image:4-pin-12V-automotive-relay.jpg]]<br /> *Some male & female spade connectors<br /> *Some cable ties<br /> *Electrical insulation tape<br /> *Double sided tape / velcro<br /> *Some cable (I used about 6m or so of 7 amp cable, available from Halfrauds for about £3.79) The amount you will use/need will depend on where you choose to get the power/ground from, where you want to locate your button, the solenoid and the relay.<br /> *Beers.<br /> <br /> ==Tools==<br /> *Screwdrivers<br /> *Cable cutters<br /> *Stanley knife / cable stripper<br /> *Pliers<br /> *Drill & drill bits<br /> *Allen keys<br /> *Socket set<br /> *Spanners<br /> *T50 torx/star drive socket<br /> *Sandpaper<br /> <br /> ==Wiring==<br /> The wiring required is pretty simple, but it is pretty important you understand it because if you connect the wrong thing to the other wrong thing there is a good chance you can do some damage to either your car or yourself. Before you start cutting wires, disconnect your battery.<br /> <br /> If you don't understand what a relay is or does, read the [http://wiki.seloc.org/a/Remote_Boot_Release_for_S2#Random_Questions Random Questions] bit of this page. It will hopefully make a lot more sense then.<br /> <br /> ===Ground and Live sources===<br /> There are a number of places you could get a ground and live connection in the car, but I am going to assume you are going to use the same place as me: the auxiliary power socket between the seats.<br /> <br /> Two cables run into the auxiliary power socket connector, a ground cable (black) and a 12v live cable (purple). You will need to splice another cable into both of these cables.<br /> <br /> "Why use the auxiliary power socket?" I hear you ask. Because it already uses a reasonable high ampage fuse (20 amps) so can take the current from using the solenoid easily. And the circuit (in the car) isn't shared with anything else - so if you do cock it up, there isn't anything else you can fry on the same circuit. The interior light for example is shared with the alarm system (and you don't want to be messing with that!).<br /> <br /> ===The relay===<br /> The relay will have pins on it corresponding to the two circuits which run within it (the coil circuit and the switch circuit).<br /> <br /> I will assume your relay has the same numbers on is as mine does (If your relay does not have the same numbers on the pins, normally a small circuit diagram on the side of the relay will describe what each pin refers to).<br /> <br /> *Pin 85 - Coil live<br /> *Pin 86 - Coil ground<br /> *Pin 30 - Switch live<br /> *Pin 87 - Switch ground<br /> <br /> ===The circuits===<br /> Two simple circuits need to be made - one with a button in it, the other with the solenoid in it. Parts of both of these circuits run through the relay.<br /> <br /> If you can read a circuit diagram, you can probably make sense of this diagram. If you can't allow me to explain.<br /> <br /> ;Circuit 1 - "Button circuit" : This circuit runs from the 12v power supply (ie a live in the car somewhere), then through the button, then through the relay's coil, and finally to a ground in the car.<br /> <br /> ;Circuit 2 - "Solenoid circuit" : This circuit runs from the 12v power supply through the switching part of the relay, then through the solenoid, and finally to a ground in the car.<br /> <br /> What Circuit 1 does is when the button is pressed, it completes the circuit, and energises the coil in the relay. The energised coil closes the switch on the Circuit 2 part of the relay. Circuit 2 is now complete, so the solenoid is activated. Circuit 2 will remain complete until the button in Circuit 1 is released.<br /> <br /> [[Image:Circuit-diagram.jpg]]<br /> <br /> The numbers in the diagram above in the relay (the box at the top) correspond to the pins on the relay.<br /> <br /> ==How to do it==<br /> #Remove both seats.<br /> #*The passenger seat has 4 allen bolts. The drivers seat has 2 hex bolts & two allen bots.<br /> #*Note: there is a small seat runner stop on the drivers seat. Don't loose it!<br /> #Undo the seat and top mounts of both the seatbelts.<br /> ##Undo the seatbelts from the side of the seats (requires a 17mm spanner).<br /> ##Unclip the plastic covers over the top seatbelt mounts.<br /> ##Unbolt top mount of the seatbelt from the rollover hoop (requires a T50 torx/star drive socket and a BIG socket wrench, as it is bloody tight!).<br /> #Remove the centre console storage pocket.<br /> ##Undo the screw at the bottom of the pocket from the top.<br /> ##Then undo the two screws you can see holding the lower part in.<br /> ##Carefully lift it out the way, and disconnect the plug on the back of the auxiliary power socket.<br /> #Remove the speakers<br /> ##Unclip the cover over the speaker (if you have any), you may need a flat-head screwdriver to prize it off.<br /> ##Undo the securing screws holding the speaker in and carefully remove the speaker from the housing making sure you don't snag the speaker wires.<br /> ##Disconnect the wires to the speakers.<br /> #Remove the bulk head covering<br /> ##Undo the 5 (?) screws / plugs securing the cover to the bulkhead. These may need persuading with a flat-head screwdriver to come out.<br /> ##The whole cover needs to be "manipulated", shall I say, to get it in/out of the car!<br /> ##Start at the bottom on one side near the seatbelt reels. You need to carefully bend the cover out from behind the roll-over bar cover.<br /> ##Once the bottom is out, work the top out in a similar way. It does need a bit of restrained brute force, but it will come out.<br /> ##Disconnect the connector on light in the middle of the panel before trying to remove it from the car entirely.<br /> <br /> NOTE: My car doesn't have insulation behind the bulk head covering as it isn't a "touring" model.<br /> <br /> ==Random Questions==<br /> ;What is a relay? : A relay is a method way of using a low current/voltage switch to safely connect/disconnect a higher current/voltage circuit, useful when switching motors etc on and off.<br /> <br /> ;How does a relay work? : Very simply - a low voltage circuit is used to provide power to a electromagnetic coil which, when active, will connect another higher voltage circuit.<br /> <br /> ;Why a relay? :You need a relay because you will burn the switch out with the current required to power the solenoid. If you put a switch into the low voltage coil circuit, by turning the switch on, you can control if the coil is on or not (thus connecting or disconnecting the high voltage circuit).</div>

Arisutea https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Remote_Boot_Release_for_S2&diff=9137 Remote Boot Release for S2 2011-04-11T18:38:15Z

<p>Arisutea: /* Ground and Live sources */</p> <hr /> <div>There is a kit available from Elise Parts for an S1 remote boot release. However the lock mechanism is mounted on the engine cover on an S2, not on the car, so to use this kit on an S2 it would require mounting the solenoid etc. on the engine cover its self. This isn't something I wanted to do, so I used a bit of ingenuity and put something together myself.<br /> <br /> I (nor SELOC or anyone else) take any responsibility if you break your car as a result of following this guide. This is a guide, not a fool proof set of instructions, as such it should be used with this in mind. Be warned: it does involve some dicking about with the cars wiring, nothing major, but you have to get a 12v feed and an earth from somewhere. Remember to disconnect the battery before you start cutting cables!<br /> <br /> These aren't "step by step" "cut this here, tape that there, prod this under that" instructions, some element of ingenuity is required to put the pieces together!<br /> <br /> I did this mod on my '04 non-touring pack 111R.<br /> <br /> ==Shopping List==<br /> *2m of bicycle brake cable (both inner & outer parts)<br /> [[Image:bicycle-cable.jpg]]<br /> *2x bicycle brake cable adjuster<br /> [[Image:bicycle-cable-adjuster.jpg]]<br /> *Central Door Locking Solenoid - I used a [http://www.maplin.co.uk/door-lock-motors-12304 YD79L] from Maplins - it includes several things I used in this HowTo. Don't be tempted to buy a cheap kit from eBay that looks the same, I got one and it broke within 2 presses of the button<br /> [[Image:Yd79l.jpg]]<br /> *A button<br /> [[Image:button.jpg]]<br /> *A 4-pin 12v automotive relay - you need one which has an open switch when the coil is not energised, and closed when it is energised.<br /> [[Image:4-pin-12V-automotive-relay.jpg]]<br /> *Some male & female spade connectors<br /> *Some cable ties<br /> *Electrical insulation tape<br /> *Double sided tape / velcro<br /> *Some cable (I used about 6m or so of 7 amp cable, available from Halfrauds for about £3.79) The amount you will use/need will depend on where you choose to get the power/ground from, where you want to locate your button, the solenoid and the relay.<br /> *Beers.<br /> <br /> ==Tools==<br /> *Screwdrivers<br /> *Cable cutters<br /> *Stanley knife / cable stripper<br /> *Pliers<br /> *Drill & drill bits<br /> *Allen keys<br /> *Socket set<br /> *Spanners<br /> *T50 torx/star drive socket<br /> <br /> ==Wiring==<br /> The wiring required is pretty simple, but it is pretty important you understand it because if you connect the wrong thing to the other wrong thing there is a good chance you can do some damage to either your car or yourself. Before you start cutting wires, disconnect your battery.<br /> <br /> If you don't understand what a relay is or does, read the [http://wiki.seloc.org/a/Remote_Boot_Release_for_S2#Random_Questions Random Questions] bit of this page. It will hopefully make a lot more sense then.<br /> <br /> ===Ground and Live sources===<br /> There are a number of places you could get a ground and live connection in the car, but I am going to assume you are going to use the same place as me: the auxiliary power socket between the seats.<br /> <br /> Two cables run into the auxiliary power socket connector, a ground cable (black) and a 12v live cable (purple). You will need to splice another cable into both of these cables.<br /> <br /> "Why use the auxiliary power socket?" I hear you ask. Because it already uses a reasonable high ampage fuse (20 amps) so can take the current from using the solenoid easily. And the circuit (in the car) isn't shared with anything else - so if you do cock it up, there isn't anything else you can fry on the same circuit. The interior light for example is shared with the alarm system (and you don't want to be messing with that!).<br /> <br /> ===The relay===<br /> The relay will have pins on it corresponding to the two circuits which run within it (the coil circuit and the switch circuit).<br /> <br /> I will assume your relay has the same numbers on is as mine does (If your relay does not have the same numbers on the pins, normally a small circuit diagram on the side of the relay will describe what each pin refers to).<br /> <br /> *Pin 85 - Coil live<br /> *Pin 86 - Coil ground<br /> *Pin 30 - Switch live<br /> *Pin 87 - Switch ground<br /> <br /> ===The circuits===<br /> Two simple circuits need to be made - one with a button in it, the other with the solenoid in it. Parts of both of these circuits run through the relay.<br /> <br /> If you can read a circuit diagram, you can probably make sense of this diagram. If you can't allow me to explain.<br /> <br /> ;Circuit 1 - "Button circuit" : This circuit runs from the 12v power supply (ie a live in the car somewhere), then through the button, then through the relay's coil, and finally to a ground in the car.<br /> <br /> ;Circuit 2 - "Solenoid circuit" : This circuit runs from the 12v power supply through the switching part of the relay, then through the solenoid, and finally to a ground in the car.<br /> <br /> What Circuit 1 does is when the button is pressed, it completes the circuit, and energises the coil in the relay. The energised coil closes the switch on the Circuit 2 part of the relay. Circuit 2 is now complete, so the solenoid is activated. Circuit 2 will remain complete until the button in Circuit 1 is released.<br /> <br /> [[Image:Circuit-diagram.jpg]]<br /> <br /> The numbers in the diagram above in the relay (the box at the top) correspond to the pins on the relay.<br /> <br /> ==How to do it==<br /> #Remove both seats.<br /> #*The passenger seat has 4 allen bolts. The drivers seat has 2 hex bolts & two allen bots.<br /> #*Note: there is a small seat runner stop on the drivers seat. Don't loose it!<br /> #Undo the seat and top mounts of both the seatbelts.<br /> ##Undo the seatbelts from the side of the seats (requires a 17mm spanner).<br /> ##Unclip the plastic covers over the top seatbelt mounts.<br /> ##Unbolt top mount of the seatbelt from the rollover hoop (requires a T50 torx/star drive socket and a BIG socket wrench, as it is bloody tight!).<br /> #Remove the centre console storage pocket.<br /> ##Undo the screw at the bottom of the pocket from the top.<br /> ##Then undo the two screws you can see holding the lower part in.<br /> ##Carefully lift it out the way, and disconnect the plug on the back of the auxiliary power socket.<br /> #Remove the speakers<br /> ##Unclip the cover over the speaker (if you have any), you may need a flat-head screwdriver to prize it off.<br /> ##Undo the securing screws holding the speaker in and carefully remove the speaker from the housing making sure you don't snag the speaker wires.<br /> ##Disconnect the wires to the speakers.<br /> #Remove the bulk head covering<br /> ##Undo the 5 (?) screws / plugs securing the cover to the bulkhead. These may need persuading with a flat-head screwdriver to come out.<br /> ##The whole cover needs to be "manipulated", shall I say, to get it in/out of the car!<br /> ##Start at the bottom on one side near the seatbelt reels. You need to carefully bend the cover out from behind the roll-over bar cover.<br /> ##Once the bottom is out, work the top out in a similar way. It does need a bit of restrained brute force, but it will come out.<br /> ##Disconnect the connector on light in the middle of the panel before trying to remove it from the car entirely.<br /> <br /> NOTE: My car doesn't have insulation behind the bulk head covering as it isn't a "touring" model.<br /> <br /> ==Random Questions==<br /> ;What is a relay? : A relay is a method way of using a low current/voltage switch to safely connect/disconnect a higher current/voltage circuit, useful when switching motors etc on and off.<br /> <br /> ;How does a relay work? : Very simply - a low voltage circuit is used to provide power to a electromagnetic coil which, when active, will connect another higher voltage circuit.<br /> <br /> ;Why a relay? :You need a relay because you will burn the switch out with the current required to power the solenoid. If you put a switch into the low voltage coil circuit, by turning the switch on, you can control if the coil is on or not (thus connecting or disconnecting the high voltage circuit).</div>

Arisutea https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Remote_Boot_Release_for_S2&diff=9136 Remote Boot Release for S2 2011-04-11T18:34:12Z

<p>Arisutea: /* The relay */</p> <hr /> <div>There is a kit available from Elise Parts for an S1 remote boot release. However the lock mechanism is mounted on the engine cover on an S2, not on the car, so to use this kit on an S2 it would require mounting the solenoid etc. on the engine cover its self. This isn't something I wanted to do, so I used a bit of ingenuity and put something together myself.<br /> <br /> I (nor SELOC or anyone else) take any responsibility if you break your car as a result of following this guide. This is a guide, not a fool proof set of instructions, as such it should be used with this in mind. Be warned: it does involve some dicking about with the cars wiring, nothing major, but you have to get a 12v feed and an earth from somewhere. Remember to disconnect the battery before you start cutting cables!<br /> <br /> These aren't "step by step" "cut this here, tape that there, prod this under that" instructions, some element of ingenuity is required to put the pieces together!<br /> <br /> I did this mod on my '04 non-touring pack 111R.<br /> <br /> ==Shopping List==<br /> *2m of bicycle brake cable (both inner & outer parts)<br /> [[Image:bicycle-cable.jpg]]<br /> *2x bicycle brake cable adjuster<br /> [[Image:bicycle-cable-adjuster.jpg]]<br /> *Central Door Locking Solenoid - I used a [http://www.maplin.co.uk/door-lock-motors-12304 YD79L] from Maplins - it includes several things I used in this HowTo. Don't be tempted to buy a cheap kit from eBay that looks the same, I got one and it broke within 2 presses of the button<br /> [[Image:Yd79l.jpg]]<br /> *A button<br /> [[Image:button.jpg]]<br /> *A 4-pin 12v automotive relay - you need one which has an open switch when the coil is not energised, and closed when it is energised.<br /> [[Image:4-pin-12V-automotive-relay.jpg]]<br /> *Some male & female spade connectors<br /> *Some cable ties<br /> *Electrical insulation tape<br /> *Double sided tape / velcro<br /> *Some cable (I used about 6m or so of 7 amp cable, available from Halfrauds for about £3.79) The amount you will use/need will depend on where you choose to get the power/ground from, where you want to locate your button, the solenoid and the relay.<br /> *Beers.<br /> <br /> ==Tools==<br /> *Screwdrivers<br /> *Cable cutters<br /> *Stanley knife / cable stripper<br /> *Pliers<br /> *Drill & drill bits<br /> *Allen keys<br /> *Socket set<br /> *Spanners<br /> *T50 torx/star drive socket<br /> <br /> ==Wiring==<br /> The wiring required is pretty simple, but it is pretty important you understand it because if you connect the wrong thing to the other wrong thing there is a good chance you can do some damage to either your car or yourself. Before you start cutting wires, disconnect your battery.<br /> <br /> If you don't understand what a relay is or does, read the [http://wiki.seloc.org/a/Remote_Boot_Release_for_S2#Random_Questions Random Questions] bit of this page. It will hopefully make a lot more sense then.<br /> <br /> ===Ground and Live sources===<br /> There are a number of places you could get a ground and live connection in the car, but I am going to assume you are going to use the same place as me: the auxiliary power socket between the seats.<br /> <br /> Two cables run into the auxiliary power socket connector, a ground cable (black) and a 12v live cable (purple).<br /> <br /> You will need to splice another cable into this cable.<br /> <br /> ===The relay===<br /> The relay will have pins on it corresponding to the two circuits which run within it (the coil circuit and the switch circuit).<br /> <br /> I will assume your relay has the same numbers on is as mine does (If your relay does not have the same numbers on the pins, normally a small circuit diagram on the side of the relay will describe what each pin refers to).<br /> <br /> *Pin 85 - Coil live<br /> *Pin 86 - Coil ground<br /> *Pin 30 - Switch live<br /> *Pin 87 - Switch ground<br /> <br /> ===The circuits===<br /> Two simple circuits need to be made - one with a button in it, the other with the solenoid in it. Parts of both of these circuits run through the relay.<br /> <br /> If you can read a circuit diagram, you can probably make sense of this diagram. If you can't allow me to explain.<br /> <br /> ;Circuit 1 - "Button circuit" : This circuit runs from the 12v power supply (ie a live in the car somewhere), then through the button, then through the relay's coil, and finally to a ground in the car.<br /> <br /> ;Circuit 2 - "Solenoid circuit" : This circuit runs from the 12v power supply through the switching part of the relay, then through the solenoid, and finally to a ground in the car.<br /> <br /> What Circuit 1 does is when the button is pressed, it completes the circuit, and energises the coil in the relay. The energised coil closes the switch on the Circuit 2 part of the relay. Circuit 2 is now complete, so the solenoid is activated. Circuit 2 will remain complete until the button in Circuit 1 is released.<br /> <br /> [[Image:Circuit-diagram.jpg]]<br /> <br /> The numbers in the diagram above in the relay (the box at the top) correspond to the pins on the relay.<br /> <br /> ==How to do it==<br /> #Remove both seats.<br /> #*The passenger seat has 4 allen bolts. The drivers seat has 2 hex bolts & two allen bots.<br /> #*Note: there is a small seat runner stop on the drivers seat. Don't loose it!<br /> #Undo the seat and top mounts of both the seatbelts.<br /> ##Undo the seatbelts from the side of the seats (requires a 17mm spanner).<br /> ##Unclip the plastic covers over the top seatbelt mounts.<br /> ##Unbolt top mount of the seatbelt from the rollover hoop (requires a T50 torx/star drive socket and a BIG socket wrench, as it is bloody tight!).<br /> #Remove the centre console storage pocket.<br /> ##Undo the screw at the bottom of the pocket from the top.<br /> ##Then undo the two screws you can see holding the lower part in.<br /> ##Carefully lift it out the way, and disconnect the plug on the back of the auxiliary power socket.<br /> #Remove the speakers<br /> ##Unclip the cover over the speaker (if you have any), you may need a flat-head screwdriver to prize it off.<br /> ##Undo the securing screws holding the speaker in and carefully remove the speaker from the housing making sure you don't snag the speaker wires.<br /> ##Disconnect the wires to the speakers.<br /> #Remove the bulk head covering<br /> ##Undo the 5 (?) screws / plugs securing the cover to the bulkhead. These may need persuading with a flat-head screwdriver to come out.<br /> ##The whole cover needs to be "manipulated", shall I say, to get it in/out of the car!<br /> ##Start at the bottom on one side near the seatbelt reels. You need to carefully bend the cover out from behind the roll-over bar cover.<br /> ##Once the bottom is out, work the top out in a similar way. It does need a bit of restrained brute force, but it will come out.<br /> ##Disconnect the connector on light in the middle of the panel before trying to remove it from the car entirely.<br /> <br /> NOTE: My car doesn't have insulation behind the bulk head covering as it isn't a "touring" model.<br /> <br /> ==Random Questions==<br /> ;What is a relay? : A relay is a method way of using a low current/voltage switch to safely connect/disconnect a higher current/voltage circuit, useful when switching motors etc on and off.<br /> <br /> ;How does a relay work? : Very simply - a low voltage circuit is used to provide power to a electromagnetic coil which, when active, will connect another higher voltage circuit.<br /> <br /> ;Why a relay? :You need a relay because you will burn the switch out with the current required to power the solenoid. If you put a switch into the low voltage coil circuit, by turning the switch on, you can control if the coil is on or not (thus connecting or disconnecting the high voltage circuit).</div>

Arisutea https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Remote_Boot_Release_for_S2&diff=9135 Remote Boot Release for S2 2011-04-11T18:33:37Z

<p>Arisutea: /* Wiring */</p> <hr /> <div>There is a kit available from Elise Parts for an S1 remote boot release. However the lock mechanism is mounted on the engine cover on an S2, not on the car, so to use this kit on an S2 it would require mounting the solenoid etc. on the engine cover its self. This isn't something I wanted to do, so I used a bit of ingenuity and put something together myself.<br /> <br /> I (nor SELOC or anyone else) take any responsibility if you break your car as a result of following this guide. This is a guide, not a fool proof set of instructions, as such it should be used with this in mind. Be warned: it does involve some dicking about with the cars wiring, nothing major, but you have to get a 12v feed and an earth from somewhere. Remember to disconnect the battery before you start cutting cables!<br /> <br /> These aren't "step by step" "cut this here, tape that there, prod this under that" instructions, some element of ingenuity is required to put the pieces together!<br /> <br /> I did this mod on my '04 non-touring pack 111R.<br /> <br /> ==Shopping List==<br /> *2m of bicycle brake cable (both inner & outer parts)<br /> [[Image:bicycle-cable.jpg]]<br /> *2x bicycle brake cable adjuster<br /> [[Image:bicycle-cable-adjuster.jpg]]<br /> *Central Door Locking Solenoid - I used a [http://www.maplin.co.uk/door-lock-motors-12304 YD79L] from Maplins - it includes several things I used in this HowTo. Don't be tempted to buy a cheap kit from eBay that looks the same, I got one and it broke within 2 presses of the button<br /> [[Image:Yd79l.jpg]]<br /> *A button<br /> [[Image:button.jpg]]<br /> *A 4-pin 12v automotive relay - you need one which has an open switch when the coil is not energised, and closed when it is energised.<br /> [[Image:4-pin-12V-automotive-relay.jpg]]<br /> *Some male & female spade connectors<br /> *Some cable ties<br /> *Electrical insulation tape<br /> *Double sided tape / velcro<br /> *Some cable (I used about 6m or so of 7 amp cable, available from Halfrauds for about £3.79) The amount you will use/need will depend on where you choose to get the power/ground from, where you want to locate your button, the solenoid and the relay.<br /> *Beers.<br /> <br /> ==Tools==<br /> *Screwdrivers<br /> *Cable cutters<br /> *Stanley knife / cable stripper<br /> *Pliers<br /> *Drill & drill bits<br /> *Allen keys<br /> *Socket set<br /> *Spanners<br /> *T50 torx/star drive socket<br /> <br /> ==Wiring==<br /> The wiring required is pretty simple, but it is pretty important you understand it because if you connect the wrong thing to the other wrong thing there is a good chance you can do some damage to either your car or yourself. Before you start cutting wires, disconnect your battery.<br /> <br /> If you don't understand what a relay is or does, read the [http://wiki.seloc.org/a/Remote_Boot_Release_for_S2#Random_Questions Random Questions] bit of this page. It will hopefully make a lot more sense then.<br /> <br /> ===Ground and Live sources===<br /> There are a number of places you could get a ground and live connection in the car, but I am going to assume you are going to use the same place as me: the auxiliary power socket between the seats.<br /> <br /> Two cables run into the auxiliary power socket connector, a ground cable (black) and a 12v live cable (purple).<br /> <br /> You will need to splice another cable into this cable.<br /> <br /> ===The relay===<br /> The relay will have pins on it corresponding to the two circuits which run within it (the coil circuit and the switch circuit).<br /> <br /> I will assume your relay has the same numbers on is as mine does (If your relay does not have the same numbers on the pins, normally a small circuit diagram on the side of the relay will describe what each pin refers to).<br /> <br /> Pin 85 - Coil live<br /> Pin 86 - Coil ground<br /> <br /> Pin 30 - Switch live<br /> Pin 87 - Switch ground<br /> <br /> ===The circuits===<br /> Two simple circuits need to be made - one with a button in it, the other with the solenoid in it. Parts of both of these circuits run through the relay.<br /> <br /> If you can read a circuit diagram, you can probably make sense of this diagram. If you can't allow me to explain.<br /> <br /> ;Circuit 1 - "Button circuit" : This circuit runs from the 12v power supply (ie a live in the car somewhere), then through the button, then through the relay's coil, and finally to a ground in the car.<br /> <br /> ;Circuit 2 - "Solenoid circuit" : This circuit runs from the 12v power supply through the switching part of the relay, then through the solenoid, and finally to a ground in the car.<br /> <br /> What Circuit 1 does is when the button is pressed, it completes the circuit, and energises the coil in the relay. The energised coil closes the switch on the Circuit 2 part of the relay. Circuit 2 is now complete, so the solenoid is activated. Circuit 2 will remain complete until the button in Circuit 1 is released.<br /> <br /> [[Image:Circuit-diagram.jpg]]<br /> <br /> The numbers in the diagram above in the relay (the box at the top) correspond to the pins on the relay.<br /> <br /> ==How to do it==<br /> #Remove both seats.<br /> #*The passenger seat has 4 allen bolts. The drivers seat has 2 hex bolts & two allen bots.<br /> #*Note: there is a small seat runner stop on the drivers seat. Don't loose it!<br /> #Undo the seat and top mounts of both the seatbelts.<br /> ##Undo the seatbelts from the side of the seats (requires a 17mm spanner).<br /> ##Unclip the plastic covers over the top seatbelt mounts.<br /> ##Unbolt top mount of the seatbelt from the rollover hoop (requires a T50 torx/star drive socket and a BIG socket wrench, as it is bloody tight!).<br /> #Remove the centre console storage pocket.<br /> ##Undo the screw at the bottom of the pocket from the top.<br /> ##Then undo the two screws you can see holding the lower part in.<br /> ##Carefully lift it out the way, and disconnect the plug on the back of the auxiliary power socket.<br /> #Remove the speakers<br /> ##Unclip the cover over the speaker (if you have any), you may need a flat-head screwdriver to prize it off.<br /> ##Undo the securing screws holding the speaker in and carefully remove the speaker from the housing making sure you don't snag the speaker wires.<br /> ##Disconnect the wires to the speakers.<br /> #Remove the bulk head covering<br /> ##Undo the 5 (?) screws / plugs securing the cover to the bulkhead. These may need persuading with a flat-head screwdriver to come out.<br /> ##The whole cover needs to be "manipulated", shall I say, to get it in/out of the car!<br /> ##Start at the bottom on one side near the seatbelt reels. You need to carefully bend the cover out from behind the roll-over bar cover.<br /> ##Once the bottom is out, work the top out in a similar way. It does need a bit of restrained brute force, but it will come out.<br /> ##Disconnect the connector on light in the middle of the panel before trying to remove it from the car entirely.<br /> <br /> NOTE: My car doesn't have insulation behind the bulk head covering as it isn't a "touring" model.<br /> <br /> ==Random Questions==<br /> ;What is a relay? : A relay is a method way of using a low current/voltage switch to safely connect/disconnect a higher current/voltage circuit, useful when switching motors etc on and off.<br /> <br /> ;How does a relay work? : Very simply - a low voltage circuit is used to provide power to a electromagnetic coil which, when active, will connect another higher voltage circuit.<br /> <br /> ;Why a relay? :You need a relay because you will burn the switch out with the current required to power the solenoid. If you put a switch into the low voltage coil circuit, by turning the switch on, you can control if the coil is on or not (thus connecting or disconnecting the high voltage circuit).</div>

Arisutea https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Remote_Boot_Release_for_S2&diff=9134 Remote Boot Release for S2 2011-04-11T18:20:25Z

<p>Arisutea: /* Wiring */</p> <hr /> <div>There is a kit available from Elise Parts for an S1 remote boot release. However the lock mechanism is mounted on the engine cover on an S2, not on the car, so to use this kit on an S2 it would require mounting the solenoid etc. on the engine cover its self. This isn't something I wanted to do, so I used a bit of ingenuity and put something together myself.<br /> <br /> I (nor SELOC or anyone else) take any responsibility if you break your car as a result of following this guide. This is a guide, not a fool proof set of instructions, as such it should be used with this in mind. Be warned: it does involve some dicking about with the cars wiring, nothing major, but you have to get a 12v feed and an earth from somewhere. Remember to disconnect the battery before you start cutting cables!<br /> <br /> These aren't "step by step" "cut this here, tape that there, prod this under that" instructions, some element of ingenuity is required to put the pieces together!<br /> <br /> I did this mod on my '04 non-touring pack 111R.<br /> <br /> ==Shopping List==<br /> *2m of bicycle brake cable (both inner & outer parts)<br /> [[Image:bicycle-cable.jpg]]<br /> *2x bicycle brake cable adjuster<br /> [[Image:bicycle-cable-adjuster.jpg]]<br /> *Central Door Locking Solenoid - I used a [http://www.maplin.co.uk/door-lock-motors-12304 YD79L] from Maplins - it includes several things I used in this HowTo. Don't be tempted to buy a cheap kit from eBay that looks the same, I got one and it broke within 2 presses of the button<br /> [[Image:Yd79l.jpg]]<br /> *A button<br /> [[Image:button.jpg]]<br /> *A 4-pin 12v automotive relay - you need one which has an open switch when the coil is not energised, and closed when it is energised.<br /> [[Image:4-pin-12V-automotive-relay.jpg]]<br /> *Some male & female spade connectors<br /> *Some cable ties<br /> *Electrical insulation tape<br /> *Double sided tape / velcro<br /> *Some cable (I used about 6m or so of 7 amp cable, available from Halfrauds for about £3.79) The amount you will use/need will depend on where you choose to get the power/ground from, where you want to locate your button, the solenoid and the relay.<br /> *Beers.<br /> <br /> ==Tools==<br /> *Screwdrivers<br /> *Cable cutters<br /> *Stanley knife / cable stripper<br /> *Pliers<br /> *Drill & drill bits<br /> *Allen keys<br /> *Socket set<br /> *Spanners<br /> *T50 torx/star drive socket<br /> <br /> ==Wiring==<br /> The wiring required is pretty simple, but it is pretty important you understand it because if you connect the wrong thing to the other wrong thing there is a good chance you can do some damage to either your car or yourself. If you don't understand what a relay is or does, read the [http://wiki.seloc.org/a/Remote_Boot_Release_for_S2#Random_Questions Random Questions] bit of this page. It will hopefully make a lot more sense then.<br /> <br /> ===The circuits===<br /> Two simple circuits need to be made - one with a button in it, the other with the solenoid in it. Parts of both of these circuits run through the relay.<br /> <br /> If you can read a circuit diagram, you can probably make sense of this diagram. If you can't allow me to explain.<br /> <br /> ;Circuit 1 - "Button circuit" : This circuit runs from the 12v power supply (ie a live in the car somewhere), then through the button, then through the relay's coil, and finally to a ground in the car.<br /> <br /> ;Circuit 2 - "Solenoid circuit" : This circuit runs from the 12v power supply through the switching part of the relay, then through the solenoid, and finally to a ground in the car.<br /> <br /> What Circuit 1 does is when the button is pressed, it completes the circuit, and energises the coil in the relay. The energised coil closes the switch on the Circuit 2 part of the relay. Circuit 2 is now complete, so the solenoid is activated. Circuit 2 will remain complete until the button in Circuit 1 is released.<br /> <br /> [[Image:Circuit-diagram.jpg]]<br /> <br /> The numbers in the diagram above in the relay (the box at the top) correspond to the pins on the relay. If your relay does not have the same numbers on the pins, normally a small circuit diagram on the side of the relay will describe what each pin refers to. For now, I am going to assume you have a relay with the same numbers on it.<br /> <br /> It is entirely up to you how you wire this up and where you wire it up from.<br /> <br /> ==How to do it==<br /> #Remove both seats.<br /> #*The passenger seat has 4 allen bolts. The drivers seat has 2 hex bolts & two allen bots.<br /> #*Note: there is a small seat runner stop on the drivers seat. Don't loose it!<br /> #Undo the seat and top mounts of both the seatbelts.<br /> ##Undo the seatbelts from the side of the seats (requires a 17mm spanner).<br /> ##Unclip the plastic covers over the top seatbelt mounts.<br /> ##Unbolt top mount of the seatbelt from the rollover hoop (requires a T50 torx/star drive socket and a BIG socket wrench, as it is bloody tight!).<br /> #Remove the centre console storage pocket.<br /> ##Undo the screw at the bottom of the pocket from the top.<br /> ##Then undo the two screws you can see holding the lower part in.<br /> ##Carefully lift it out the way, and disconnect the plug on the back of the auxiliary power socket.<br /> #Remove the speakers<br /> ##Unclip the cover over the speaker (if you have any), you may need a flat-head screwdriver to prize it off.<br /> ##Undo the securing screws holding the speaker in and carefully remove the speaker from the housing making sure you don't snag the speaker wires.<br /> ##Disconnect the wires to the speakers.<br /> #Remove the bulk head covering<br /> ##Undo the 5 (?) screws / plugs securing the cover to the bulkhead. These may need persuading with a flat-head screwdriver to come out.<br /> ##The whole cover needs to be "manipulated", shall I say, to get it in/out of the car!<br /> ##Start at the bottom on one side near the seatbelt reels. You need to carefully bend the cover out from behind the roll-over bar cover.<br /> ##Once the bottom is out, work the top out in a similar way. It does need a bit of restrained brute force, but it will come out.<br /> ##Disconnect the connector on light in the middle of the panel before trying to remove it from the car entirely.<br /> <br /> NOTE: My car doesn't have insulation behind the bulk head covering as it isn't a "touring" model.<br /> <br /> ==Random Questions==<br /> ;What is a relay? : A relay is a method way of using a low current/voltage switch to safely connect/disconnect a higher current/voltage circuit, useful when switching motors etc on and off.<br /> <br /> ;How does a relay work? : Very simply - a low voltage circuit is used to provide power to a electromagnetic coil which, when active, will connect another higher voltage circuit.<br /> <br /> ;Why a relay? :You need a relay because you will burn the switch out with the current required to power the solenoid. If you put a switch into the low voltage coil circuit, by turning the switch on, you can control if the coil is on or not (thus connecting or disconnecting the high voltage circuit).</div>

Arisutea https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Remote_Boot_Release_for_S2&diff=9133 Remote Boot Release for S2 2011-04-11T18:18:18Z

<p>Arisutea: /* Wiring */</p> <hr /> <div>There is a kit available from Elise Parts for an S1 remote boot release. However the lock mechanism is mounted on the engine cover on an S2, not on the car, so to use this kit on an S2 it would require mounting the solenoid etc. on the engine cover its self. This isn't something I wanted to do, so I used a bit of ingenuity and put something together myself.<br /> <br /> I (nor SELOC or anyone else) take any responsibility if you break your car as a result of following this guide. This is a guide, not a fool proof set of instructions, as such it should be used with this in mind. Be warned: it does involve some dicking about with the cars wiring, nothing major, but you have to get a 12v feed and an earth from somewhere. Remember to disconnect the battery before you start cutting cables!<br /> <br /> These aren't "step by step" "cut this here, tape that there, prod this under that" instructions, some element of ingenuity is required to put the pieces together!<br /> <br /> I did this mod on my '04 non-touring pack 111R.<br /> <br /> ==Shopping List==<br /> *2m of bicycle brake cable (both inner & outer parts)<br /> [[Image:bicycle-cable.jpg]]<br /> *2x bicycle brake cable adjuster<br /> [[Image:bicycle-cable-adjuster.jpg]]<br /> *Central Door Locking Solenoid - I used a [http://www.maplin.co.uk/door-lock-motors-12304 YD79L] from Maplins - it includes several things I used in this HowTo. Don't be tempted to buy a cheap kit from eBay that looks the same, I got one and it broke within 2 presses of the button<br /> [[Image:Yd79l.jpg]]<br /> *A button<br /> [[Image:button.jpg]]<br /> *A 4-pin 12v automotive relay - you need one which has an open switch when the coil is not energised, and closed when it is energised.<br /> [[Image:4-pin-12V-automotive-relay.jpg]]<br /> *Some male & female spade connectors<br /> *Some cable ties<br /> *Electrical insulation tape<br /> *Double sided tape / velcro<br /> *Some cable (I used about 6m or so of 7 amp cable, available from Halfrauds for about £3.79) The amount you will use/need will depend on where you choose to get the power/ground from, where you want to locate your button, the solenoid and the relay.<br /> *Beers.<br /> <br /> ==Tools==<br /> *Screwdrivers<br /> *Cable cutters<br /> *Stanley knife / cable stripper<br /> *Pliers<br /> *Drill & drill bits<br /> *Allen keys<br /> *Socket set<br /> *Spanners<br /> *T50 torx/star drive socket<br /> <br /> ==Wiring==<br /> The wiring required is not very advanced at all. But it is pretty important you understand it because if you connect the wrong thing to the other wrong thing there is a good chance you can do some damage to either your car or yourself. If you don't understand what a relay is or does, read the [http://wiki.seloc.org/a/Remote_Boot_Release_for_S2#Random_Questions Random Questions] bit of this page. It will hopefully make a lot more sense then.<br /> <br /> Two simple circuits need to be made - one with a button in it, the other with the solenoid in it. Parts of both of these circuits run through the relay.<br /> <br /> If you can read a circuit diagram, you can probably make sense of this diagram. If you can't allow me to explain.<br /> <br /> Circuit 1 - "Button circuit" - This circuit runs from the 12v power supply (ie a live in the car somewhere), then through the button, then through the relay's coil, and finally to a ground in the car.<br /> <br /> Circuit 2 - "Solenoid circuit" - This circuit runs from the 12v power supply through the switching part of the relay, then through the solenoid, and finally to a ground in the car.<br /> <br /> What Circuit 1 does is when the button is pressed, it completes the circuit, and energises the coil in the relay. The energised coil closes the switch on the Circuit 2 part of the relay. Circuit 2 is now complete, so the solenoid is activated. Circuit 2 will remain complete until the button in Circuit 1 is released.<br /> <br /> [[Image:Circuit-diagram.jpg]]<br /> <br /> The numbers in the diagram above in the relay (the box at the top) correspond to the pins on the relay. If your relay does not have the same numbers on the pins, normally a small circuit diagram on the side of the relay will describe what each pin refers to. For now, I am going to assume you have a relay with the same numbers on it.<br /> <br /> It is entirely up to you how you wire this up and where you wire it up from.<br /> <br /> ==How to do it==<br /> #Remove both seats.<br /> #*The passenger seat has 4 allen bolts. The drivers seat has 2 hex bolts & two allen bots.<br /> #*Note: there is a small seat runner stop on the drivers seat. Don't loose it!<br /> #Undo the seat and top mounts of both the seatbelts.<br /> ##Undo the seatbelts from the side of the seats (requires a 17mm spanner).<br /> ##Unclip the plastic covers over the top seatbelt mounts.<br /> ##Unbolt top mount of the seatbelt from the rollover hoop (requires a T50 torx/star drive socket and a BIG socket wrench, as it is bloody tight!).<br /> #Remove the centre console storage pocket.<br /> ##Undo the screw at the bottom of the pocket from the top.<br /> ##Then undo the two screws you can see holding the lower part in.<br /> ##Carefully lift it out the way, and disconnect the plug on the back of the auxiliary power socket.<br /> #Remove the speakers<br /> ##Unclip the cover over the speaker (if you have any), you may need a flat-head screwdriver to prize it off.<br /> ##Undo the securing screws holding the speaker in and carefully remove the speaker from the housing making sure you don't snag the speaker wires.<br /> ##Disconnect the wires to the speakers.<br /> #Remove the bulk head covering<br /> ##Undo the 5 (?) screws / plugs securing the cover to the bulkhead. These may need persuading with a flat-head screwdriver to come out.<br /> ##The whole cover needs to be "manipulated", shall I say, to get it in/out of the car!<br /> ##Start at the bottom on one side near the seatbelt reels. You need to carefully bend the cover out from behind the roll-over bar cover.<br /> ##Once the bottom is out, work the top out in a similar way. It does need a bit of restrained brute force, but it will come out.<br /> ##Disconnect the connector on light in the middle of the panel before trying to remove it from the car entirely.<br /> <br /> NOTE: My car doesn't have insulation behind the bulk head covering as it isn't a "touring" model.<br /> <br /> ==Random Questions==<br /> ;What is a relay? : A relay is a method way of using a low current/voltage switch to safely connect/disconnect a higher current/voltage circuit, useful when switching motors etc on and off.<br /> <br /> ;How does a relay work? : Very simply - a low voltage circuit is used to provide power to a electromagnetic coil which, when active, will connect another higher voltage circuit.<br /> <br /> ;Why a relay? :You need a relay because you will burn the switch out with the current required to power the solenoid. If you put a switch into the low voltage coil circuit, by turning the switch on, you can control if the coil is on or not (thus connecting or disconnecting the high voltage circuit).</div>

Arisutea https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Remote_Boot_Release_for_S2&diff=9132 Remote Boot Release for S2 2011-04-11T18:16:08Z

<p>Arisutea: /* Wiring */</p> <hr /> <div>There is a kit available from Elise Parts for an S1 remote boot release. However the lock mechanism is mounted on the engine cover on an S2, not on the car, so to use this kit on an S2 it would require mounting the solenoid etc. on the engine cover its self. This isn't something I wanted to do, so I used a bit of ingenuity and put something together myself.<br /> <br /> I (nor SELOC or anyone else) take any responsibility if you break your car as a result of following this guide. This is a guide, not a fool proof set of instructions, as such it should be used with this in mind. Be warned: it does involve some dicking about with the cars wiring, nothing major, but you have to get a 12v feed and an earth from somewhere. Remember to disconnect the battery before you start cutting cables!<br /> <br /> These aren't "step by step" "cut this here, tape that there, prod this under that" instructions, some element of ingenuity is required to put the pieces together!<br /> <br /> I did this mod on my '04 non-touring pack 111R.<br /> <br /> ==Shopping List==<br /> *2m of bicycle brake cable (both inner & outer parts)<br /> [[Image:bicycle-cable.jpg]]<br /> *2x bicycle brake cable adjuster<br /> [[Image:bicycle-cable-adjuster.jpg]]<br /> *Central Door Locking Solenoid - I used a [http://www.maplin.co.uk/door-lock-motors-12304 YD79L] from Maplins - it includes several things I used in this HowTo. Don't be tempted to buy a cheap kit from eBay that looks the same, I got one and it broke within 2 presses of the button<br /> [[Image:Yd79l.jpg]]<br /> *A button<br /> [[Image:button.jpg]]<br /> *A 4-pin 12v automotive relay - you need one which has an open switch when the coil is not energised, and closed when it is energised.<br /> [[Image:4-pin-12V-automotive-relay.jpg]]<br /> *Some male & female spade connectors<br /> *Some cable ties<br /> *Electrical insulation tape<br /> *Double sided tape / velcro<br /> *Some cable (I used about 6m or so of 7 amp cable, available from Halfrauds for about £3.79) The amount you will use/need will depend on where you choose to get the power/ground from, where you want to locate your button, the solenoid and the relay.<br /> *Beers.<br /> <br /> ==Tools==<br /> *Screwdrivers<br /> *Cable cutters<br /> *Stanley knife / cable stripper<br /> *Pliers<br /> *Drill & drill bits<br /> *Allen keys<br /> *Socket set<br /> *Spanners<br /> *T50 torx/star drive socket<br /> <br /> ==Wiring==<br /> The wiring required is not very advanced at all. But it is pretty important you understand it because if you connect the wrong thing to the other wrong thing there is a good chance you can do some damage to either your car or yourself. If you don't understand what a relay is or does, read the [http://wiki.seloc.org/a/Remote_Boot_Release_for_S2#Random_Questions Random Questions] bit of this page. It will hopefully make a lot more sense then.<br /> <br /> Two simple circuits need to be made - one with a button in it, the other with the solenoid in it. Parts of both of these circuits run through the relay.<br /> <br /> If you can read a circuit diagram, you can probably make sense of this diagram. If you can't allow me to explain.<br /> <br /> Circuit 1 - "Button circuit" - This circuit runs from the 12v power supply (ie a live in the car somewhere), then through the button, then through the relay's coil, and finally to a ground in the car.<br /> <br /> Circuit 2 - "Solenoid circuit" - This circuit runs from the 12v power supply through the switching part of the relay, then through the solenoid, and finally to a ground in the car.<br /> <br /> What Circuit 1 does is when the button is pressed, it completes the circuit, and energises the coil in the relay. The energised coil closes the switch on the Circuit 2 part of the relay. Circuit 2 is now complete, so the solenoid is activated. Circuit 2 will remain complete until the button in Circuit 1 is released.<br /> <br /> [[Image:Circuit-diagram.jpg]]<br /> <br /> The numbers on the diagram in the relay correspond to the pins on the relay. If your relay does not have the same numbers on the pins, normally a small circuit diagram on the side of the relay will describe what each pin refers to.<br /> <br /> ==How to do it==<br /> #Remove both seats.<br /> #*The passenger seat has 4 allen bolts. The drivers seat has 2 hex bolts & two allen bots.<br /> #*Note: there is a small seat runner stop on the drivers seat. Don't loose it!<br /> #Undo the seat and top mounts of both the seatbelts.<br /> ##Undo the seatbelts from the side of the seats (requires a 17mm spanner).<br /> ##Unclip the plastic covers over the top seatbelt mounts.<br /> ##Unbolt top mount of the seatbelt from the rollover hoop (requires a T50 torx/star drive socket and a BIG socket wrench, as it is bloody tight!).<br /> #Remove the centre console storage pocket.<br /> ##Undo the screw at the bottom of the pocket from the top.<br /> ##Then undo the two screws you can see holding the lower part in.<br /> ##Carefully lift it out the way, and disconnect the plug on the back of the auxiliary power socket.<br /> #Remove the speakers<br /> ##Unclip the cover over the speaker (if you have any), you may need a flat-head screwdriver to prize it off.<br /> ##Undo the securing screws holding the speaker in and carefully remove the speaker from the housing making sure you don't snag the speaker wires.<br /> ##Disconnect the wires to the speakers.<br /> #Remove the bulk head covering<br /> ##Undo the 5 (?) screws / plugs securing the cover to the bulkhead. These may need persuading with a flat-head screwdriver to come out.<br /> ##The whole cover needs to be "manipulated", shall I say, to get it in/out of the car!<br /> ##Start at the bottom on one side near the seatbelt reels. You need to carefully bend the cover out from behind the roll-over bar cover.<br /> ##Once the bottom is out, work the top out in a similar way. It does need a bit of restrained brute force, but it will come out.<br /> ##Disconnect the connector on light in the middle of the panel before trying to remove it from the car entirely.<br /> <br /> NOTE: My car doesn't have insulation behind the bulk head covering as it isn't a "touring" model.<br /> <br /> ==Random Questions==<br /> ;What is a relay? : A relay is a method way of using a low current/voltage switch to safely connect/disconnect a higher current/voltage circuit, useful when switching motors etc on and off.<br /> <br /> ;How does a relay work? : Very simply - a low voltage circuit is used to provide power to a electromagnetic coil which, when active, will connect another higher voltage circuit.<br /> <br /> ;Why a relay? :You need a relay because you will burn the switch out with the current required to power the solenoid. If you put a switch into the low voltage coil circuit, by turning the switch on, you can control if the coil is on or not (thus connecting or disconnecting the high voltage circuit).</div>

Arisutea https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Remote_Boot_Release_for_S2&diff=9131 Remote Boot Release for S2 2011-04-11T18:13:22Z

<p>Arisutea: /* Wiring */</p> <hr /> <div>There is a kit available from Elise Parts for an S1 remote boot release. However the lock mechanism is mounted on the engine cover on an S2, not on the car, so to use this kit on an S2 it would require mounting the solenoid etc. on the engine cover its self. This isn't something I wanted to do, so I used a bit of ingenuity and put something together myself.<br /> <br /> I (nor SELOC or anyone else) take any responsibility if you break your car as a result of following this guide. This is a guide, not a fool proof set of instructions, as such it should be used with this in mind. Be warned: it does involve some dicking about with the cars wiring, nothing major, but you have to get a 12v feed and an earth from somewhere. Remember to disconnect the battery before you start cutting cables!<br /> <br /> These aren't "step by step" "cut this here, tape that there, prod this under that" instructions, some element of ingenuity is required to put the pieces together!<br /> <br /> I did this mod on my '04 non-touring pack 111R.<br /> <br /> ==Shopping List==<br /> *2m of bicycle brake cable (both inner & outer parts)<br /> [[Image:bicycle-cable.jpg]]<br /> *2x bicycle brake cable adjuster<br /> [[Image:bicycle-cable-adjuster.jpg]]<br /> *Central Door Locking Solenoid - I used a [http://www.maplin.co.uk/door-lock-motors-12304 YD79L] from Maplins - it includes several things I used in this HowTo. Don't be tempted to buy a cheap kit from eBay that looks the same, I got one and it broke within 2 presses of the button<br /> [[Image:Yd79l.jpg]]<br /> *A button<br /> [[Image:button.jpg]]<br /> *A 4-pin 12v automotive relay - you need one which has an open switch when the coil is not energised, and closed when it is energised.<br /> [[Image:4-pin-12V-automotive-relay.jpg]]<br /> *Some male & female spade connectors<br /> *Some cable ties<br /> *Electrical insulation tape<br /> *Double sided tape / velcro<br /> *Some cable (I used about 6m or so of 7 amp cable, available from Halfrauds for about £3.79) The amount you will use/need will depend on where you choose to get the power/ground from, where you want to locate your button, the solenoid and the relay.<br /> *Beers.<br /> <br /> ==Tools==<br /> *Screwdrivers<br /> *Cable cutters<br /> *Stanley knife / cable stripper<br /> *Pliers<br /> *Drill & drill bits<br /> *Allen keys<br /> *Socket set<br /> *Spanners<br /> *T50 torx/star drive socket<br /> <br /> ==Wiring==<br /> The wiring required is not very advanced at all. Once you understand the [http://wiki.seloc.org/a/Remote_Boot_Release_for_S2#Random_Questions purpose of a relay] and how it fits into what you are trying to achieve, it makes a lot more sense.<br /> <br /> Two simple circuits need to be made - one with a button in it, the other with the solenoid in it. Parts of both of these circuits run through the relay.<br /> <br /> If you can read a circuit diagram, you can probably make sense of this diagram. If you can't allow me to explain.<br /> <br /> Circuit 1 - "Button circuit" - This circuit runs from the 12v power supply (ie a live in the car somewhere), then through the button, then through the relay's coil, and finally to a ground in the car.<br /> <br /> Circuit 2 - "Solenoid circuit" - This circuit runs from the 12v power supply through the switching part of the relay, then through the solenoid, and finally to a ground in the car.<br /> <br /> What Circuit 1 does is when the button is pressed, it completes the circuit, and energises the coil in the relay. The energised coil closes the switch on the Circuit 2 part of the relay. Circuit 2 is now complete, so the solenoid is activated. Circuit 2 will remain complete until the button in Circuit 1 is released.<br /> <br /> [[Image:Circuit-diagram.jpg]]<br /> <br /> The numbers on the diagram in the relay correspond to the pins on the relay. If your relay does not have the same numbers on the pins, normally a small circuit diagram on the side of the relay will describe what each pin refers to.<br /> <br /> ==How to do it==<br /> #Remove both seats.<br /> #*The passenger seat has 4 allen bolts. The drivers seat has 2 hex bolts & two allen bots.<br /> #*Note: there is a small seat runner stop on the drivers seat. Don't loose it!<br /> #Undo the seat and top mounts of both the seatbelts.<br /> ##Undo the seatbelts from the side of the seats (requires a 17mm spanner).<br /> ##Unclip the plastic covers over the top seatbelt mounts.<br /> ##Unbolt top mount of the seatbelt from the rollover hoop (requires a T50 torx/star drive socket and a BIG socket wrench, as it is bloody tight!).<br /> #Remove the centre console storage pocket.<br /> ##Undo the screw at the bottom of the pocket from the top.<br /> ##Then undo the two screws you can see holding the lower part in.<br /> ##Carefully lift it out the way, and disconnect the plug on the back of the auxiliary power socket.<br /> #Remove the speakers<br /> ##Unclip the cover over the speaker (if you have any), you may need a flat-head screwdriver to prize it off.<br /> ##Undo the securing screws holding the speaker in and carefully remove the speaker from the housing making sure you don't snag the speaker wires.<br /> ##Disconnect the wires to the speakers.<br /> #Remove the bulk head covering<br /> ##Undo the 5 (?) screws / plugs securing the cover to the bulkhead. These may need persuading with a flat-head screwdriver to come out.<br /> ##The whole cover needs to be "manipulated", shall I say, to get it in/out of the car!<br /> ##Start at the bottom on one side near the seatbelt reels. You need to carefully bend the cover out from behind the roll-over bar cover.<br /> ##Once the bottom is out, work the top out in a similar way. It does need a bit of restrained brute force, but it will come out.<br /> ##Disconnect the connector on light in the middle of the panel before trying to remove it from the car entirely.<br /> <br /> NOTE: My car doesn't have insulation behind the bulk head covering as it isn't a "touring" model.<br /> <br /> ==Random Questions==<br /> ;What is a relay? : A relay is a method way of using a low current/voltage switch to safely connect/disconnect a higher current/voltage circuit, useful when switching motors etc on and off.<br /> <br /> ;How does a relay work? : Very simply - a low voltage circuit is used to provide power to a electromagnetic coil which, when active, will connect another higher voltage circuit.<br /> <br /> ;Why a relay? :You need a relay because you will burn the switch out with the current required to power the solenoid. If you put a switch into the low voltage coil circuit, by turning the switch on, you can control if the coil is on or not (thus connecting or disconnecting the high voltage circuit).</div>

Arisutea https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Remote_Boot_Release_for_S2&diff=9130 Remote Boot Release for S2 2011-04-11T18:02:43Z

<p>Arisutea: /* Wiring */</p> <hr /> <div>There is a kit available from Elise Parts for an S1 remote boot release. However the lock mechanism is mounted on the engine cover on an S2, not on the car, so to use this kit on an S2 it would require mounting the solenoid etc. on the engine cover its self. This isn't something I wanted to do, so I used a bit of ingenuity and put something together myself.<br /> <br /> I (nor SELOC or anyone else) take any responsibility if you break your car as a result of following this guide. This is a guide, not a fool proof set of instructions, as such it should be used with this in mind. Be warned: it does involve some dicking about with the cars wiring, nothing major, but you have to get a 12v feed and an earth from somewhere. Remember to disconnect the battery before you start cutting cables!<br /> <br /> These aren't "step by step" "cut this here, tape that there, prod this under that" instructions, some element of ingenuity is required to put the pieces together!<br /> <br /> I did this mod on my '04 non-touring pack 111R.<br /> <br /> ==Shopping List==<br /> *2m of bicycle brake cable (both inner & outer parts)<br /> [[Image:bicycle-cable.jpg]]<br /> *2x bicycle brake cable adjuster<br /> [[Image:bicycle-cable-adjuster.jpg]]<br /> *Central Door Locking Solenoid - I used a [http://www.maplin.co.uk/door-lock-motors-12304 YD79L] from Maplins - it includes several things I used in this HowTo. Don't be tempted to buy a cheap kit from eBay that looks the same, I got one and it broke within 2 presses of the button<br /> [[Image:Yd79l.jpg]]<br /> *A button<br /> [[Image:button.jpg]]<br /> *A 4-pin 12v automotive relay - you need one which has an open switch when the coil is not energised, and closed when it is energised.<br /> [[Image:4-pin-12V-automotive-relay.jpg]]<br /> *Some male & female spade connectors<br /> *Some cable ties<br /> *Electrical insulation tape<br /> *Double sided tape / velcro<br /> *Some cable (I used about 6m or so of 7 amp cable, available from Halfrauds for about £3.79) The amount you will use/need will depend on where you choose to get the power/ground from, where you want to locate your button, the solenoid and the relay.<br /> *Beers.<br /> <br /> ==Tools==<br /> *Screwdrivers<br /> *Cable cutters<br /> *Stanley knife / cable stripper<br /> *Pliers<br /> *Drill & drill bits<br /> *Allen keys<br /> *Socket set<br /> *Spanners<br /> *T50 torx/star drive socket<br /> <br /> ==Wiring==<br /> The wiring required is not very advanced at all. Once you understand the [http://wiki.seloc.org/a/Remote_Boot_Release_for_S2#Random_Questions purpose of a relay] and how it fits into what you are trying to achieve, it makes a lot more sense.<br /> <br /> Two simple circuits need to be made - one with a button in it, the other with the solenoid in it. Parts of both of these circuits run through the relay.<br /> <br /> If you can read a circuit diagram, you can probably make sense of this. If you can't allow me to explain.<br /> <br /> [[Image:Circuit-diagram.jpg]]<br /> <br /> ==How to do it==<br /> #Remove both seats.<br /> #*The passenger seat has 4 allen bolts. The drivers seat has 2 hex bolts & two allen bots.<br /> #*Note: there is a small seat runner stop on the drivers seat. Don't loose it!<br /> #Undo the seat and top mounts of both the seatbelts.<br /> ##Undo the seatbelts from the side of the seats (requires a 17mm spanner).<br /> ##Unclip the plastic covers over the top seatbelt mounts.<br /> ##Unbolt top mount of the seatbelt from the rollover hoop (requires a T50 torx/star drive socket and a BIG socket wrench, as it is bloody tight!).<br /> #Remove the centre console storage pocket.<br /> ##Undo the screw at the bottom of the pocket from the top.<br /> ##Then undo the two screws you can see holding the lower part in.<br /> ##Carefully lift it out the way, and disconnect the plug on the back of the auxiliary power socket.<br /> #Remove the speakers<br /> ##Unclip the cover over the speaker (if you have any), you may need a flat-head screwdriver to prize it off.<br /> ##Undo the securing screws holding the speaker in and carefully remove the speaker from the housing making sure you don't snag the speaker wires.<br /> ##Disconnect the wires to the speakers.<br /> #Remove the bulk head covering<br /> ##Undo the 5 (?) screws / plugs securing the cover to the bulkhead. These may need persuading with a flat-head screwdriver to come out.<br /> ##The whole cover needs to be "manipulated", shall I say, to get it in/out of the car!<br /> ##Start at the bottom on one side near the seatbelt reels. You need to carefully bend the cover out from behind the roll-over bar cover.<br /> ##Once the bottom is out, work the top out in a similar way. It does need a bit of restrained brute force, but it will come out.<br /> ##Disconnect the connector on light in the middle of the panel before trying to remove it from the car entirely.<br /> <br /> NOTE: My car doesn't have insulation behind the bulk head covering as it isn't a "touring" model.<br /> <br /> ==Random Questions==<br /> ;What is a relay? : A relay is a method way of using a low current/voltage switch to safely connect/disconnect a higher current/voltage circuit, useful when switching motors etc on and off.<br /> <br /> ;How does a relay work? : Very simply - a low voltage circuit is used to provide power to a electromagnetic coil which, when active, will connect another higher voltage circuit.<br /> <br /> ;Why a relay? :You need a relay because you will burn the switch out with the current required to power the solenoid. If you put a switch into the low voltage coil circuit, by turning the switch on, you can control if the coil is on or not (thus connecting or disconnecting the high voltage circuit).</div>

Arisutea https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Remote_Boot_Release_for_S2&diff=9129 Remote Boot Release for S2 2011-04-11T18:01:48Z

<p>Arisutea: /* Wiring */</p> <hr /> <div>There is a kit available from Elise Parts for an S1 remote boot release. However the lock mechanism is mounted on the engine cover on an S2, not on the car, so to use this kit on an S2 it would require mounting the solenoid etc. on the engine cover its self. This isn't something I wanted to do, so I used a bit of ingenuity and put something together myself.<br /> <br /> I (nor SELOC or anyone else) take any responsibility if you break your car as a result of following this guide. This is a guide, not a fool proof set of instructions, as such it should be used with this in mind. Be warned: it does involve some dicking about with the cars wiring, nothing major, but you have to get a 12v feed and an earth from somewhere. Remember to disconnect the battery before you start cutting cables!<br /> <br /> These aren't "step by step" "cut this here, tape that there, prod this under that" instructions, some element of ingenuity is required to put the pieces together!<br /> <br /> I did this mod on my '04 non-touring pack 111R.<br /> <br /> ==Shopping List==<br /> *2m of bicycle brake cable (both inner & outer parts)<br /> [[Image:bicycle-cable.jpg]]<br /> *2x bicycle brake cable adjuster<br /> [[Image:bicycle-cable-adjuster.jpg]]<br /> *Central Door Locking Solenoid - I used a [http://www.maplin.co.uk/door-lock-motors-12304 YD79L] from Maplins - it includes several things I used in this HowTo. Don't be tempted to buy a cheap kit from eBay that looks the same, I got one and it broke within 2 presses of the button<br /> [[Image:Yd79l.jpg]]<br /> *A button<br /> [[Image:button.jpg]]<br /> *A 4-pin 12v automotive relay - you need one which has an open switch when the coil is not energised, and closed when it is energised.<br /> [[Image:4-pin-12V-automotive-relay.jpg]]<br /> *Some male & female spade connectors<br /> *Some cable ties<br /> *Electrical insulation tape<br /> *Double sided tape / velcro<br /> *Some cable (I used about 6m or so of 7 amp cable, available from Halfrauds for about £3.79) The amount you will use/need will depend on where you choose to get the power/ground from, where you want to locate your button, the solenoid and the relay.<br /> *Beers.<br /> <br /> ==Tools==<br /> *Screwdrivers<br /> *Cable cutters<br /> *Stanley knife / cable stripper<br /> *Pliers<br /> *Drill & drill bits<br /> *Allen keys<br /> *Socket set<br /> *Spanners<br /> *T50 torx/star drive socket<br /> <br /> ==Wiring==<br /> The wiring required is not very advanced at all. Once you understand the [Remote_Boot_Release_for_S2#Random_Questions purpose of a relay] and how it fits into what you are trying to achieve, it makes a lot more sense.<br /> <br /> Two simple circuits need to be made - one with a button in it, the other with the solenoid in it. Parts of both of these circuits run through the relay.<br /> <br /> If you can read a circuit diagram, you can probably make sense of this. If you can't allow me to explain.<br /> <br /> [[Image:Circuit-diagram.jpg]]<br /> <br /> ==How to do it==<br /> #Remove both seats.<br /> #*The passenger seat has 4 allen bolts. The drivers seat has 2 hex bolts & two allen bots.<br /> #*Note: there is a small seat runner stop on the drivers seat. Don't loose it!<br /> #Undo the seat and top mounts of both the seatbelts.<br /> ##Undo the seatbelts from the side of the seats (requires a 17mm spanner).<br /> ##Unclip the plastic covers over the top seatbelt mounts.<br /> ##Unbolt top mount of the seatbelt from the rollover hoop (requires a T50 torx/star drive socket and a BIG socket wrench, as it is bloody tight!).<br /> #Remove the centre console storage pocket.<br /> ##Undo the screw at the bottom of the pocket from the top.<br /> ##Then undo the two screws you can see holding the lower part in.<br /> ##Carefully lift it out the way, and disconnect the plug on the back of the auxiliary power socket.<br /> #Remove the speakers<br /> ##Unclip the cover over the speaker (if you have any), you may need a flat-head screwdriver to prize it off.<br /> ##Undo the securing screws holding the speaker in and carefully remove the speaker from the housing making sure you don't snag the speaker wires.<br /> ##Disconnect the wires to the speakers.<br /> #Remove the bulk head covering<br /> ##Undo the 5 (?) screws / plugs securing the cover to the bulkhead. These may need persuading with a flat-head screwdriver to come out.<br /> ##The whole cover needs to be "manipulated", shall I say, to get it in/out of the car!<br /> ##Start at the bottom on one side near the seatbelt reels. You need to carefully bend the cover out from behind the roll-over bar cover.<br /> ##Once the bottom is out, work the top out in a similar way. It does need a bit of restrained brute force, but it will come out.<br /> ##Disconnect the connector on light in the middle of the panel before trying to remove it from the car entirely.<br /> <br /> NOTE: My car doesn't have insulation behind the bulk head covering as it isn't a "touring" model.<br /> <br /> ==Random Questions==<br /> ;What is a relay? : A relay is a method way of using a low current/voltage switch to safely connect/disconnect a higher current/voltage circuit, useful when switching motors etc on and off.<br /> <br /> ;How does a relay work? : Very simply - a low voltage circuit is used to provide power to a electromagnetic coil which, when active, will connect another higher voltage circuit.<br /> <br /> ;Why a relay? :You need a relay because you will burn the switch out with the current required to power the solenoid. If you put a switch into the low voltage coil circuit, by turning the switch on, you can control if the coil is on or not (thus connecting or disconnecting the high voltage circuit).</div>

Arisutea https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Remote_Boot_Release_for_S2&diff=9128 Remote Boot Release for S2 2011-04-11T18:00:52Z

<p>Arisutea: /* Wiring */</p> <hr /> <div>There is a kit available from Elise Parts for an S1 remote boot release. However the lock mechanism is mounted on the engine cover on an S2, not on the car, so to use this kit on an S2 it would require mounting the solenoid etc. on the engine cover its self. This isn't something I wanted to do, so I used a bit of ingenuity and put something together myself.<br /> <br /> I (nor SELOC or anyone else) take any responsibility if you break your car as a result of following this guide. This is a guide, not a fool proof set of instructions, as such it should be used with this in mind. Be warned: it does involve some dicking about with the cars wiring, nothing major, but you have to get a 12v feed and an earth from somewhere. Remember to disconnect the battery before you start cutting cables!<br /> <br /> These aren't "step by step" "cut this here, tape that there, prod this under that" instructions, some element of ingenuity is required to put the pieces together!<br /> <br /> I did this mod on my '04 non-touring pack 111R.<br /> <br /> ==Shopping List==<br /> *2m of bicycle brake cable (both inner & outer parts)<br /> [[Image:bicycle-cable.jpg]]<br /> *2x bicycle brake cable adjuster<br /> [[Image:bicycle-cable-adjuster.jpg]]<br /> *Central Door Locking Solenoid - I used a [http://www.maplin.co.uk/door-lock-motors-12304 YD79L] from Maplins - it includes several things I used in this HowTo. Don't be tempted to buy a cheap kit from eBay that looks the same, I got one and it broke within 2 presses of the button<br /> [[Image:Yd79l.jpg]]<br /> *A button<br /> [[Image:button.jpg]]<br /> *A 4-pin 12v automotive relay - you need one which has an open switch when the coil is not energised, and closed when it is energised.<br /> [[Image:4-pin-12V-automotive-relay.jpg]]<br /> *Some male & female spade connectors<br /> *Some cable ties<br /> *Electrical insulation tape<br /> *Double sided tape / velcro<br /> *Some cable (I used about 6m or so of 7 amp cable, available from Halfrauds for about £3.79) The amount you will use/need will depend on where you choose to get the power/ground from, where you want to locate your button, the solenoid and the relay.<br /> *Beers.<br /> <br /> ==Tools==<br /> *Screwdrivers<br /> *Cable cutters<br /> *Stanley knife / cable stripper<br /> *Pliers<br /> *Drill & drill bits<br /> *Allen keys<br /> *Socket set<br /> *Spanners<br /> *T50 torx/star drive socket<br /> <br /> ==Wiring==<br /> The wiring required is not very advanced at all. Once you understand the [http://wiki.seloc.org/a/Remote_Boot_Release_for_S2#Random_Questions purpose of a relay] and how it fits into what you are trying to achieve, it makes a lot more sense.<br /> <br /> Two simple circuits need to be made - one with a button in it, the other with the solenoid in it. Parts of both of these circuits run through the relay.<br /> <br /> If you can read a circuit diagram, you can probably make sense of this. If you can't allow me to explain.<br /> <br /> [[Image:Circuit-diagram.jpg]]<br /> <br /> ==How to do it==<br /> #Remove both seats.<br /> #*The passenger seat has 4 allen bolts. The drivers seat has 2 hex bolts & two allen bots.<br /> #*Note: there is a small seat runner stop on the drivers seat. Don't loose it!<br /> #Undo the seat and top mounts of both the seatbelts.<br /> ##Undo the seatbelts from the side of the seats (requires a 17mm spanner).<br /> ##Unclip the plastic covers over the top seatbelt mounts.<br /> ##Unbolt top mount of the seatbelt from the rollover hoop (requires a T50 torx/star drive socket and a BIG socket wrench, as it is bloody tight!).<br /> #Remove the centre console storage pocket.<br /> ##Undo the screw at the bottom of the pocket from the top.<br /> ##Then undo the two screws you can see holding the lower part in.<br /> ##Carefully lift it out the way, and disconnect the plug on the back of the auxiliary power socket.<br /> #Remove the speakers<br /> ##Unclip the cover over the speaker (if you have any), you may need a flat-head screwdriver to prize it off.<br /> ##Undo the securing screws holding the speaker in and carefully remove the speaker from the housing making sure you don't snag the speaker wires.<br /> ##Disconnect the wires to the speakers.<br /> #Remove the bulk head covering<br /> ##Undo the 5 (?) screws / plugs securing the cover to the bulkhead. These may need persuading with a flat-head screwdriver to come out.<br /> ##The whole cover needs to be "manipulated", shall I say, to get it in/out of the car!<br /> ##Start at the bottom on one side near the seatbelt reels. You need to carefully bend the cover out from behind the roll-over bar cover.<br /> ##Once the bottom is out, work the top out in a similar way. It does need a bit of restrained brute force, but it will come out.<br /> ##Disconnect the connector on light in the middle of the panel before trying to remove it from the car entirely.<br /> <br /> NOTE: My car doesn't have insulation behind the bulk head covering as it isn't a "touring" model.<br /> <br /> ==Random Questions==<br /> ;What is a relay? : A relay is a method way of using a low current/voltage switch to safely connect/disconnect a higher current/voltage circuit, useful when switching motors etc on and off.<br /> <br /> ;How does a relay work? : Very simply - a low voltage circuit is used to provide power to a electromagnetic coil which, when active, will connect another higher voltage circuit.<br /> <br /> ;Why a relay? :You need a relay because you will burn the switch out with the current required to power the solenoid. If you put a switch into the low voltage coil circuit, by turning the switch on, you can control if the coil is on or not (thus connecting or disconnecting the high voltage circuit).</div>

Arisutea https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Remote_Boot_Release_for_S2&diff=9127 Remote Boot Release for S2 2011-04-11T17:59:56Z

<p>Arisutea: /* Wiring */</p> <hr /> <div>There is a kit available from Elise Parts for an S1 remote boot release. However the lock mechanism is mounted on the engine cover on an S2, not on the car, so to use this kit on an S2 it would require mounting the solenoid etc. on the engine cover its self. This isn't something I wanted to do, so I used a bit of ingenuity and put something together myself.<br /> <br /> I (nor SELOC or anyone else) take any responsibility if you break your car as a result of following this guide. This is a guide, not a fool proof set of instructions, as such it should be used with this in mind. Be warned: it does involve some dicking about with the cars wiring, nothing major, but you have to get a 12v feed and an earth from somewhere. Remember to disconnect the battery before you start cutting cables!<br /> <br /> These aren't "step by step" "cut this here, tape that there, prod this under that" instructions, some element of ingenuity is required to put the pieces together!<br /> <br /> I did this mod on my '04 non-touring pack 111R.<br /> <br /> ==Shopping List==<br /> *2m of bicycle brake cable (both inner & outer parts)<br /> [[Image:bicycle-cable.jpg]]<br /> *2x bicycle brake cable adjuster<br /> [[Image:bicycle-cable-adjuster.jpg]]<br /> *Central Door Locking Solenoid - I used a [http://www.maplin.co.uk/door-lock-motors-12304 YD79L] from Maplins - it includes several things I used in this HowTo. Don't be tempted to buy a cheap kit from eBay that looks the same, I got one and it broke within 2 presses of the button<br /> [[Image:Yd79l.jpg]]<br /> *A button<br /> [[Image:button.jpg]]<br /> *A 4-pin 12v automotive relay - you need one which has an open switch when the coil is not energised, and closed when it is energised.<br /> [[Image:4-pin-12V-automotive-relay.jpg]]<br /> *Some male & female spade connectors<br /> *Some cable ties<br /> *Electrical insulation tape<br /> *Double sided tape / velcro<br /> *Some cable (I used about 6m or so of 7 amp cable, available from Halfrauds for about £3.79) The amount you will use/need will depend on where you choose to get the power/ground from, where you want to locate your button, the solenoid and the relay.<br /> *Beers.<br /> <br /> ==Tools==<br /> *Screwdrivers<br /> *Cable cutters<br /> *Stanley knife / cable stripper<br /> *Pliers<br /> *Drill & drill bits<br /> *Allen keys<br /> *Socket set<br /> *Spanners<br /> *T50 torx/star drive socket<br /> <br /> ==Wiring==<br /> The wiring required is not very advanced at all. Once you understand the [[#Random_Questions purpose of a relay]] and how it fits into what you are trying to achieve, it makes a lot more sense.<br /> <br /> Two simple circuits need to be made - one with a button in it, the other with the solenoid in it. Parts of both of these circuits run through the relay.<br /> <br /> If you can read a circuit diagram, you can probably make sense of this. If you can't allow me to explain.<br /> <br /> [[Image:Circuit-diagram.jpg]]<br /> <br /> ==How to do it==<br /> #Remove both seats.<br /> #*The passenger seat has 4 allen bolts. The drivers seat has 2 hex bolts & two allen bots.<br /> #*Note: there is a small seat runner stop on the drivers seat. Don't loose it!<br /> #Undo the seat and top mounts of both the seatbelts.<br /> ##Undo the seatbelts from the side of the seats (requires a 17mm spanner).<br /> ##Unclip the plastic covers over the top seatbelt mounts.<br /> ##Unbolt top mount of the seatbelt from the rollover hoop (requires a T50 torx/star drive socket and a BIG socket wrench, as it is bloody tight!).<br /> #Remove the centre console storage pocket.<br /> ##Undo the screw at the bottom of the pocket from the top.<br /> ##Then undo the two screws you can see holding the lower part in.<br /> ##Carefully lift it out the way, and disconnect the plug on the back of the auxiliary power socket.<br /> #Remove the speakers<br /> ##Unclip the cover over the speaker (if you have any), you may need a flat-head screwdriver to prize it off.<br /> ##Undo the securing screws holding the speaker in and carefully remove the speaker from the housing making sure you don't snag the speaker wires.<br /> ##Disconnect the wires to the speakers.<br /> #Remove the bulk head covering<br /> ##Undo the 5 (?) screws / plugs securing the cover to the bulkhead. These may need persuading with a flat-head screwdriver to come out.<br /> ##The whole cover needs to be "manipulated", shall I say, to get it in/out of the car!<br /> ##Start at the bottom on one side near the seatbelt reels. You need to carefully bend the cover out from behind the roll-over bar cover.<br /> ##Once the bottom is out, work the top out in a similar way. It does need a bit of restrained brute force, but it will come out.<br /> ##Disconnect the connector on light in the middle of the panel before trying to remove it from the car entirely.<br /> <br /> NOTE: My car doesn't have insulation behind the bulk head covering as it isn't a "touring" model.<br /> <br /> ==Random Questions==<br /> ;What is a relay? : A relay is a method way of using a low current/voltage switch to safely connect/disconnect a higher current/voltage circuit, useful when switching motors etc on and off.<br /> <br /> ;How does a relay work? : Very simply - a low voltage circuit is used to provide power to a electromagnetic coil which, when active, will connect another higher voltage circuit.<br /> <br /> ;Why a relay? :You need a relay because you will burn the switch out with the current required to power the solenoid. If you put a switch into the low voltage coil circuit, by turning the switch on, you can control if the coil is on or not (thus connecting or disconnecting the high voltage circuit).</div>

Arisutea https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Remote_Boot_Release_for_S2&diff=9126 Remote Boot Release for S2 2011-04-11T17:58:55Z

<p>Arisutea: /* Wiring */</p> <hr /> <div>There is a kit available from Elise Parts for an S1 remote boot release. However the lock mechanism is mounted on the engine cover on an S2, not on the car, so to use this kit on an S2 it would require mounting the solenoid etc. on the engine cover its self. This isn't something I wanted to do, so I used a bit of ingenuity and put something together myself.<br /> <br /> I (nor SELOC or anyone else) take any responsibility if you break your car as a result of following this guide. This is a guide, not a fool proof set of instructions, as such it should be used with this in mind. Be warned: it does involve some dicking about with the cars wiring, nothing major, but you have to get a 12v feed and an earth from somewhere. Remember to disconnect the battery before you start cutting cables!<br /> <br /> These aren't "step by step" "cut this here, tape that there, prod this under that" instructions, some element of ingenuity is required to put the pieces together!<br /> <br /> I did this mod on my '04 non-touring pack 111R.<br /> <br /> ==Shopping List==<br /> *2m of bicycle brake cable (both inner & outer parts)<br /> [[Image:bicycle-cable.jpg]]<br /> *2x bicycle brake cable adjuster<br /> [[Image:bicycle-cable-adjuster.jpg]]<br /> *Central Door Locking Solenoid - I used a [http://www.maplin.co.uk/door-lock-motors-12304 YD79L] from Maplins - it includes several things I used in this HowTo. Don't be tempted to buy a cheap kit from eBay that looks the same, I got one and it broke within 2 presses of the button<br /> [[Image:Yd79l.jpg]]<br /> *A button<br /> [[Image:button.jpg]]<br /> *A 4-pin 12v automotive relay - you need one which has an open switch when the coil is not energised, and closed when it is energised.<br /> [[Image:4-pin-12V-automotive-relay.jpg]]<br /> *Some male & female spade connectors<br /> *Some cable ties<br /> *Electrical insulation tape<br /> *Double sided tape / velcro<br /> *Some cable (I used about 6m or so of 7 amp cable, available from Halfrauds for about £3.79) The amount you will use/need will depend on where you choose to get the power/ground from, where you want to locate your button, the solenoid and the relay.<br /> *Beers.<br /> <br /> ==Tools==<br /> *Screwdrivers<br /> *Cable cutters<br /> *Stanley knife / cable stripper<br /> *Pliers<br /> *Drill & drill bits<br /> *Allen keys<br /> *Socket set<br /> *Spanners<br /> *T50 torx/star drive socket<br /> <br /> ==Wiring==<br /> The wiring required is not very advanced at all. Once you understand the [#Random_Questions purpose of a relay] and how it fits into what you are trying to achieve, it makes a lot more sense.<br /> <br /> Two simple circuits need to be made - one with a button in it, the other with the solenoid in it. Parts of both of these circuits run through the relay.<br /> <br /> If you can read a circuit diagram, you can probably make sense of this. If you can't allow me to explain.<br /> <br /> [[Image:Circuit-diagram.jpg]]<br /> <br /> ==How to do it==<br /> #Remove both seats.<br /> #*The passenger seat has 4 allen bolts. The drivers seat has 2 hex bolts & two allen bots.<br /> #*Note: there is a small seat runner stop on the drivers seat. Don't loose it!<br /> #Undo the seat and top mounts of both the seatbelts.<br /> ##Undo the seatbelts from the side of the seats (requires a 17mm spanner).<br /> ##Unclip the plastic covers over the top seatbelt mounts.<br /> ##Unbolt top mount of the seatbelt from the rollover hoop (requires a T50 torx/star drive socket and a BIG socket wrench, as it is bloody tight!).<br /> #Remove the centre console storage pocket.<br /> ##Undo the screw at the bottom of the pocket from the top.<br /> ##Then undo the two screws you can see holding the lower part in.<br /> ##Carefully lift it out the way, and disconnect the plug on the back of the auxiliary power socket.<br /> #Remove the speakers<br /> ##Unclip the cover over the speaker (if you have any), you may need a flat-head screwdriver to prize it off.<br /> ##Undo the securing screws holding the speaker in and carefully remove the speaker from the housing making sure you don't snag the speaker wires.<br /> ##Disconnect the wires to the speakers.<br /> #Remove the bulk head covering<br /> ##Undo the 5 (?) screws / plugs securing the cover to the bulkhead. These may need persuading with a flat-head screwdriver to come out.<br /> ##The whole cover needs to be "manipulated", shall I say, to get it in/out of the car!<br /> ##Start at the bottom on one side near the seatbelt reels. You need to carefully bend the cover out from behind the roll-over bar cover.<br /> ##Once the bottom is out, work the top out in a similar way. It does need a bit of restrained brute force, but it will come out.<br /> ##Disconnect the connector on light in the middle of the panel before trying to remove it from the car entirely.<br /> <br /> NOTE: My car doesn't have insulation behind the bulk head covering as it isn't a "touring" model.<br /> <br /> ==Random Questions==<br /> ;What is a relay? : A relay is a method way of using a low current/voltage switch to safely connect/disconnect a higher current/voltage circuit, useful when switching motors etc on and off.<br /> <br /> ;How does a relay work? : Very simply - a low voltage circuit is used to provide power to a electromagnetic coil which, when active, will connect another higher voltage circuit.<br /> <br /> ;Why a relay? :You need a relay because you will burn the switch out with the current required to power the solenoid. If you put a switch into the low voltage coil circuit, by turning the switch on, you can control if the coil is on or not (thus connecting or disconnecting the high voltage circuit).</div>

Arisutea https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Remote_Boot_Release_for_S2&diff=9125 Remote Boot Release for S2 2011-04-11T17:57:12Z

<p>Arisutea: /* Wiring */</p> <hr /> <div>There is a kit available from Elise Parts for an S1 remote boot release. However the lock mechanism is mounted on the engine cover on an S2, not on the car, so to use this kit on an S2 it would require mounting the solenoid etc. on the engine cover its self. This isn't something I wanted to do, so I used a bit of ingenuity and put something together myself.<br /> <br /> I (nor SELOC or anyone else) take any responsibility if you break your car as a result of following this guide. This is a guide, not a fool proof set of instructions, as such it should be used with this in mind. Be warned: it does involve some dicking about with the cars wiring, nothing major, but you have to get a 12v feed and an earth from somewhere. Remember to disconnect the battery before you start cutting cables!<br /> <br /> These aren't "step by step" "cut this here, tape that there, prod this under that" instructions, some element of ingenuity is required to put the pieces together!<br /> <br /> I did this mod on my '04 non-touring pack 111R.<br /> <br /> ==Shopping List==<br /> *2m of bicycle brake cable (both inner & outer parts)<br /> [[Image:bicycle-cable.jpg]]<br /> *2x bicycle brake cable adjuster<br /> [[Image:bicycle-cable-adjuster.jpg]]<br /> *Central Door Locking Solenoid - I used a [http://www.maplin.co.uk/door-lock-motors-12304 YD79L] from Maplins - it includes several things I used in this HowTo. Don't be tempted to buy a cheap kit from eBay that looks the same, I got one and it broke within 2 presses of the button<br /> [[Image:Yd79l.jpg]]<br /> *A button<br /> [[Image:button.jpg]]<br /> *A 4-pin 12v automotive relay - you need one which has an open switch when the coil is not energised, and closed when it is energised.<br /> [[Image:4-pin-12V-automotive-relay.jpg]]<br /> *Some male & female spade connectors<br /> *Some cable ties<br /> *Electrical insulation tape<br /> *Double sided tape / velcro<br /> *Some cable (I used about 6m or so of 7 amp cable, available from Halfrauds for about £3.79) The amount you will use/need will depend on where you choose to get the power/ground from, where you want to locate your button, the solenoid and the relay.<br /> *Beers.<br /> <br /> ==Tools==<br /> *Screwdrivers<br /> *Cable cutters<br /> *Stanley knife / cable stripper<br /> *Pliers<br /> *Drill & drill bits<br /> *Allen keys<br /> *Socket set<br /> *Spanners<br /> *T50 torx/star drive socket<br /> <br /> ==Wiring==<br /> The wiring required is not very advanced at all. Once you understand the purpose of a relay and how it fits into what you are trying to achieve, it makes a lot more sense.<br /> <br /> Two simple circuits need to be made - one with a button in it, the other with the solenoid in it. Parts of both of these circuits run through the relay.<br /> <br /> If you can read a circuit diagram, you can probably make sense of this. If you can't allow me to explain.<br /> <br /> [[Image:Circuit-diagram.jpg]]<br /> <br /> ==How to do it==<br /> #Remove both seats.<br /> #*The passenger seat has 4 allen bolts. The drivers seat has 2 hex bolts & two allen bots.<br /> #*Note: there is a small seat runner stop on the drivers seat. Don't loose it!<br /> #Undo the seat and top mounts of both the seatbelts.<br /> ##Undo the seatbelts from the side of the seats (requires a 17mm spanner).<br /> ##Unclip the plastic covers over the top seatbelt mounts.<br /> ##Unbolt top mount of the seatbelt from the rollover hoop (requires a T50 torx/star drive socket and a BIG socket wrench, as it is bloody tight!).<br /> #Remove the centre console storage pocket.<br /> ##Undo the screw at the bottom of the pocket from the top.<br /> ##Then undo the two screws you can see holding the lower part in.<br /> ##Carefully lift it out the way, and disconnect the plug on the back of the auxiliary power socket.<br /> #Remove the speakers<br /> ##Unclip the cover over the speaker (if you have any), you may need a flat-head screwdriver to prize it off.<br /> ##Undo the securing screws holding the speaker in and carefully remove the speaker from the housing making sure you don't snag the speaker wires.<br /> ##Disconnect the wires to the speakers.<br /> #Remove the bulk head covering<br /> ##Undo the 5 (?) screws / plugs securing the cover to the bulkhead. These may need persuading with a flat-head screwdriver to come out.<br /> ##The whole cover needs to be "manipulated", shall I say, to get it in/out of the car!<br /> ##Start at the bottom on one side near the seatbelt reels. You need to carefully bend the cover out from behind the roll-over bar cover.<br /> ##Once the bottom is out, work the top out in a similar way. It does need a bit of restrained brute force, but it will come out.<br /> ##Disconnect the connector on light in the middle of the panel before trying to remove it from the car entirely.<br /> <br /> NOTE: My car doesn't have insulation behind the bulk head covering as it isn't a "touring" model.<br /> <br /> ==Random Questions==<br /> ;What is a relay? : A relay is a method way of using a low current/voltage switch to safely connect/disconnect a higher current/voltage circuit, useful when switching motors etc on and off.<br /> <br /> ;How does a relay work? : Very simply - a low voltage circuit is used to provide power to a electromagnetic coil which, when active, will connect another higher voltage circuit.<br /> <br /> ;Why a relay? :You need a relay because you will burn the switch out with the current required to power the solenoid. If you put a switch into the low voltage coil circuit, by turning the switch on, you can control if the coil is on or not (thus connecting or disconnecting the high voltage circuit).</div>

Arisutea https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Remote_Boot_Release_for_S2&diff=9124 Remote Boot Release for S2 2011-04-10T22:44:34Z

<p>Arisutea: /* Wiring */</p> <hr /> <div>There is a kit available from Elise Parts for an S1 remote boot release. However the lock mechanism is mounted on the engine cover on an S2, not on the car, so to use this kit on an S2 it would require mounting the solenoid etc. on the engine cover its self. This isn't something I wanted to do, so I used a bit of ingenuity and put something together myself.<br /> <br /> I (nor SELOC or anyone else) take any responsibility if you break your car as a result of following this guide. This is a guide, not a fool proof set of instructions, as such it should be used with this in mind. Be warned: it does involve some dicking about with the cars wiring, nothing major, but you have to get a 12v feed and an earth from somewhere. Remember to disconnect the battery before you start cutting cables!<br /> <br /> These aren't "step by step" "cut this here, tape that there, prod this under that" instructions, some element of ingenuity is required to put the pieces together!<br /> <br /> I did this mod on my '04 non-touring pack 111R.<br /> <br /> ==Shopping List==<br /> *2m of bicycle brake cable (both inner & outer parts)<br /> [[Image:bicycle-cable.jpg]]<br /> *2x bicycle brake cable adjuster<br /> [[Image:bicycle-cable-adjuster.jpg]]<br /> *Central Door Locking Solenoid - I used a [http://www.maplin.co.uk/door-lock-motors-12304 YD79L] from Maplins - it includes several things I used in this HowTo. Don't be tempted to buy a cheap kit from eBay that looks the same, I got one and it broke within 2 presses of the button<br /> [[Image:Yd79l.jpg]]<br /> *A button<br /> [[Image:button.jpg]]<br /> *A 4-pin 12v automotive relay - you need one which has an open switch when the coil is not energised, and closed when it is energised.<br /> [[Image:4-pin-12V-automotive-relay.jpg]]<br /> *Some male & female spade connectors<br /> *Some cable ties<br /> *Electrical insulation tape<br /> *Double sided tape / velcro<br /> *Some cable (I used about 6m or so of 7 amp cable, available from Halfrauds for about £3.79) The amount you will use/need will depend on where you choose to get the power/ground from, where you want to locate your button, the solenoid and the relay.<br /> *Beers.<br /> <br /> ==Tools==<br /> *Screwdrivers<br /> *Cable cutters<br /> *Stanley knife / cable stripper<br /> *Pliers<br /> *Drill & drill bits<br /> *Allen keys<br /> *Socket set<br /> *Spanners<br /> *T50 torx/star drive socket<br /> <br /> ==Wiring==<br /> If you can read a circuit diagram, you can probably make sense of this.<br /> <br /> [[Image:Circuit-diagram.jpg]]<br /> <br /> ==How to do it==<br /> #Remove both seats.<br /> #*The passenger seat has 4 allen bolts. The drivers seat has 2 hex bolts & two allen bots.<br /> #*Note: there is a small seat runner stop on the drivers seat. Don't loose it!<br /> #Undo the seat and top mounts of both the seatbelts.<br /> ##Undo the seatbelts from the side of the seats (requires a 17mm spanner).<br /> ##Unclip the plastic covers over the top seatbelt mounts.<br /> ##Unbolt top mount of the seatbelt from the rollover hoop (requires a T50 torx/star drive socket and a BIG socket wrench, as it is bloody tight!).<br /> #Remove the centre console storage pocket.<br /> ##Undo the screw at the bottom of the pocket from the top.<br /> ##Then undo the two screws you can see holding the lower part in.<br /> ##Carefully lift it out the way, and disconnect the plug on the back of the auxiliary power socket.<br /> #Remove the speakers<br /> ##Unclip the cover over the speaker (if you have any), you may need a flat-head screwdriver to prize it off.<br /> ##Undo the securing screws holding the speaker in and carefully remove the speaker from the housing making sure you don't snag the speaker wires.<br /> ##Disconnect the wires to the speakers.<br /> #Remove the bulk head covering<br /> ##Undo the 5 (?) screws / plugs securing the cover to the bulkhead. These may need persuading with a flat-head screwdriver to come out.<br /> ##The whole cover needs to be "manipulated", shall I say, to get it in/out of the car!<br /> ##Start at the bottom on one side near the seatbelt reels. You need to carefully bend the cover out from behind the roll-over bar cover.<br /> ##Once the bottom is out, work the top out in a similar way. It does need a bit of restrained brute force, but it will come out.<br /> ##Disconnect the connector on light in the middle of the panel before trying to remove it from the car entirely.<br /> <br /> NOTE: My car doesn't have insulation behind the bulk head covering as it isn't a "touring" model.<br /> <br /> ==Random Questions==<br /> ;What is a relay? : A relay is a method way of using a low current/voltage switch to safely connect/disconnect a higher current/voltage circuit, useful when switching motors etc on and off.<br /> <br /> ;How does a relay work? : Very simply - a low voltage circuit is used to provide power to a electromagnetic coil which, when active, will connect another higher voltage circuit.<br /> <br /> ;Why a relay? :You need a relay because you will burn the switch out with the current required to power the solenoid. If you put a switch into the low voltage coil circuit, by turning the switch on, you can control if the coil is on or not (thus connecting or disconnecting the high voltage circuit).</div>

Arisutea https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Remote_Boot_Release_for_S2&diff=9123 Remote Boot Release for S2 2011-04-10T22:44:07Z

<p>Arisutea: /* Wiring */</p> <hr /> <div>There is a kit available from Elise Parts for an S1 remote boot release. However the lock mechanism is mounted on the engine cover on an S2, not on the car, so to use this kit on an S2 it would require mounting the solenoid etc. on the engine cover its self. This isn't something I wanted to do, so I used a bit of ingenuity and put something together myself.<br /> <br /> I (nor SELOC or anyone else) take any responsibility if you break your car as a result of following this guide. This is a guide, not a fool proof set of instructions, as such it should be used with this in mind. Be warned: it does involve some dicking about with the cars wiring, nothing major, but you have to get a 12v feed and an earth from somewhere. Remember to disconnect the battery before you start cutting cables!<br /> <br /> These aren't "step by step" "cut this here, tape that there, prod this under that" instructions, some element of ingenuity is required to put the pieces together!<br /> <br /> I did this mod on my '04 non-touring pack 111R.<br /> <br /> ==Shopping List==<br /> *2m of bicycle brake cable (both inner & outer parts)<br /> [[Image:bicycle-cable.jpg]]<br /> *2x bicycle brake cable adjuster<br /> [[Image:bicycle-cable-adjuster.jpg]]<br /> *Central Door Locking Solenoid - I used a [http://www.maplin.co.uk/door-lock-motors-12304 YD79L] from Maplins - it includes several things I used in this HowTo. Don't be tempted to buy a cheap kit from eBay that looks the same, I got one and it broke within 2 presses of the button<br /> [[Image:Yd79l.jpg]]<br /> *A button<br /> [[Image:button.jpg]]<br /> *A 4-pin 12v automotive relay - you need one which has an open switch when the coil is not energised, and closed when it is energised.<br /> [[Image:4-pin-12V-automotive-relay.jpg]]<br /> *Some male & female spade connectors<br /> *Some cable ties<br /> *Electrical insulation tape<br /> *Double sided tape / velcro<br /> *Some cable (I used about 6m or so of 7 amp cable, available from Halfrauds for about £3.79) The amount you will use/need will depend on where you choose to get the power/ground from, where you want to locate your button, the solenoid and the relay.<br /> *Beers.<br /> <br /> ==Tools==<br /> *Screwdrivers<br /> *Cable cutters<br /> *Stanley knife / cable stripper<br /> *Pliers<br /> *Drill & drill bits<br /> *Allen keys<br /> *Socket set<br /> *Spanners<br /> *T50 torx/star drive socket<br /> <br /> ==Wiring==<br /> I mentioned the relay needs to have "an open switch when the coil is not energised". This basically means the high voltage circuit is off when the low voltage circuit is off.<br /> <br /> If you can read a circuit diagram, you can probably make sense of this.<br /> <br /> [[Image:Circuit-diagram.jpg]]<br /> <br /> ==How to do it==<br /> #Remove both seats.<br /> #*The passenger seat has 4 allen bolts. The drivers seat has 2 hex bolts & two allen bots.<br /> #*Note: there is a small seat runner stop on the drivers seat. Don't loose it!<br /> #Undo the seat and top mounts of both the seatbelts.<br /> ##Undo the seatbelts from the side of the seats (requires a 17mm spanner).<br /> ##Unclip the plastic covers over the top seatbelt mounts.<br /> ##Unbolt top mount of the seatbelt from the rollover hoop (requires a T50 torx/star drive socket and a BIG socket wrench, as it is bloody tight!).<br /> #Remove the centre console storage pocket.<br /> ##Undo the screw at the bottom of the pocket from the top.<br /> ##Then undo the two screws you can see holding the lower part in.<br /> ##Carefully lift it out the way, and disconnect the plug on the back of the auxiliary power socket.<br /> #Remove the speakers<br /> ##Unclip the cover over the speaker (if you have any), you may need a flat-head screwdriver to prize it off.<br /> ##Undo the securing screws holding the speaker in and carefully remove the speaker from the housing making sure you don't snag the speaker wires.<br /> ##Disconnect the wires to the speakers.<br /> #Remove the bulk head covering<br /> ##Undo the 5 (?) screws / plugs securing the cover to the bulkhead. These may need persuading with a flat-head screwdriver to come out.<br /> ##The whole cover needs to be "manipulated", shall I say, to get it in/out of the car!<br /> ##Start at the bottom on one side near the seatbelt reels. You need to carefully bend the cover out from behind the roll-over bar cover.<br /> ##Once the bottom is out, work the top out in a similar way. It does need a bit of restrained brute force, but it will come out.<br /> ##Disconnect the connector on light in the middle of the panel before trying to remove it from the car entirely.<br /> <br /> NOTE: My car doesn't have insulation behind the bulk head covering as it isn't a "touring" model.<br /> <br /> ==Random Questions==<br /> ;What is a relay? : A relay is a method way of using a low current/voltage switch to safely connect/disconnect a higher current/voltage circuit, useful when switching motors etc on and off.<br /> <br /> ;How does a relay work? : Very simply - a low voltage circuit is used to provide power to a electromagnetic coil which, when active, will connect another higher voltage circuit.<br /> <br /> ;Why a relay? :You need a relay because you will burn the switch out with the current required to power the solenoid. If you put a switch into the low voltage coil circuit, by turning the switch on, you can control if the coil is on or not (thus connecting or disconnecting the high voltage circuit).</div>

Arisutea https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=File:Circuit-diagram.jpg&diff=9122 File:Circuit-diagram.jpg 2011-04-10T22:43:52Z

<p>Arisutea: Boot release circuit diagram</p> <hr /> <div>Boot release circuit diagram</div>

Arisutea https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Remote_Boot_Release_for_S2&diff=9121 Remote Boot Release for S2 2011-04-10T22:27:48Z

<p>Arisutea: /* Wiring */</p> <hr /> <div>There is a kit available from Elise Parts for an S1 remote boot release. However the lock mechanism is mounted on the engine cover on an S2, not on the car, so to use this kit on an S2 it would require mounting the solenoid etc. on the engine cover its self. This isn't something I wanted to do, so I used a bit of ingenuity and put something together myself.<br /> <br /> I (nor SELOC or anyone else) take any responsibility if you break your car as a result of following this guide. This is a guide, not a fool proof set of instructions, as such it should be used with this in mind. Be warned: it does involve some dicking about with the cars wiring, nothing major, but you have to get a 12v feed and an earth from somewhere. Remember to disconnect the battery before you start cutting cables!<br /> <br /> These aren't "step by step" "cut this here, tape that there, prod this under that" instructions, some element of ingenuity is required to put the pieces together!<br /> <br /> I did this mod on my '04 non-touring pack 111R.<br /> <br /> ==Shopping List==<br /> *2m of bicycle brake cable (both inner & outer parts)<br /> [[Image:bicycle-cable.jpg]]<br /> *2x bicycle brake cable adjuster<br /> [[Image:bicycle-cable-adjuster.jpg]]<br /> *Central Door Locking Solenoid - I used a [http://www.maplin.co.uk/door-lock-motors-12304 YD79L] from Maplins - it includes several things I used in this HowTo. Don't be tempted to buy a cheap kit from eBay that looks the same, I got one and it broke within 2 presses of the button<br /> [[Image:Yd79l.jpg]]<br /> *A button<br /> [[Image:button.jpg]]<br /> *A 4-pin 12v automotive relay - you need one which has an open switch when the coil is not energised, and closed when it is energised.<br /> [[Image:4-pin-12V-automotive-relay.jpg]]<br /> *Some male & female spade connectors<br /> *Some cable ties<br /> *Electrical insulation tape<br /> *Double sided tape / velcro<br /> *Some cable (I used about 6m or so of 7 amp cable, available from Halfrauds for about £3.79) The amount you will use/need will depend on where you choose to get the power/ground from, where you want to locate your button, the solenoid and the relay.<br /> *Beers.<br /> <br /> ==Tools==<br /> *Screwdrivers<br /> *Cable cutters<br /> *Stanley knife / cable stripper<br /> *Pliers<br /> *Drill & drill bits<br /> *Allen keys<br /> *Socket set<br /> *Spanners<br /> *T50 torx/star drive socket<br /> <br /> ==Wiring==<br /> I mentioned the relay needs to have "an open switch when the coil is not energised". This basically means the high voltage circuit is off when the low voltage circuit is off.<br /> <br /> Your average 4 pin automotive relay will work something like this...<br /> <br /> [[Image:4-pin-automotive-relay-diagram.jpg]]<br /> <br /> ==How to do it==<br /> #Remove both seats.<br /> #*The passenger seat has 4 allen bolts. The drivers seat has 2 hex bolts & two allen bots.<br /> #*Note: there is a small seat runner stop on the drivers seat. Don't loose it!<br /> #Undo the seat and top mounts of both the seatbelts.<br /> ##Undo the seatbelts from the side of the seats (requires a 17mm spanner).<br /> ##Unclip the plastic covers over the top seatbelt mounts.<br /> ##Unbolt top mount of the seatbelt from the rollover hoop (requires a T50 torx/star drive socket and a BIG socket wrench, as it is bloody tight!).<br /> #Remove the centre console storage pocket.<br /> ##Undo the screw at the bottom of the pocket from the top.<br /> ##Then undo the two screws you can see holding the lower part in.<br /> ##Carefully lift it out the way, and disconnect the plug on the back of the auxiliary power socket.<br /> #Remove the speakers<br /> ##Unclip the cover over the speaker (if you have any), you may need a flat-head screwdriver to prize it off.<br /> ##Undo the securing screws holding the speaker in and carefully remove the speaker from the housing making sure you don't snag the speaker wires.<br /> ##Disconnect the wires to the speakers.<br /> #Remove the bulk head covering<br /> ##Undo the 5 (?) screws / plugs securing the cover to the bulkhead. These may need persuading with a flat-head screwdriver to come out.<br /> ##The whole cover needs to be "manipulated", shall I say, to get it in/out of the car!<br /> ##Start at the bottom on one side near the seatbelt reels. You need to carefully bend the cover out from behind the roll-over bar cover.<br /> ##Once the bottom is out, work the top out in a similar way. It does need a bit of restrained brute force, but it will come out.<br /> ##Disconnect the connector on light in the middle of the panel before trying to remove it from the car entirely.<br /> <br /> NOTE: My car doesn't have insulation behind the bulk head covering as it isn't a "touring" model.<br /> <br /> ==Random Questions==<br /> ;What is a relay? : A relay is a method way of using a low current/voltage switch to safely connect/disconnect a higher current/voltage circuit, useful when switching motors etc on and off.<br /> <br /> ;How does a relay work? : Very simply - a low voltage circuit is used to provide power to a electromagnetic coil which, when active, will connect another higher voltage circuit.<br /> <br /> ;Why a relay? :You need a relay because you will burn the switch out with the current required to power the solenoid. If you put a switch into the low voltage coil circuit, by turning the switch on, you can control if the coil is on or not (thus connecting or disconnecting the high voltage circuit).</div>

Arisutea