TechWiki - User contributions [en-gb]

Geo Setups

2023-08-04T13:44:41Z

BillyB: /* Elise/Exige */

== Standard Setups ==

===Elise/Exige===

{| border=1 cellpadding=5 align=center
|- style="background-color:#fed200; face:bold;"
| rowspan=2 | Geometry || rowspan=2 | Ride Height<br />Front/Rear || colspan=3 align=center | Front || colspan=2 align=center | Rear
|- style="background-color:#fed200;"
| Castor || Camber || Toe [Degrees] || Camber || Toe [Degrees]
|-
| Standard S1 & S2 || 130/130mm || +3.8° || -0.1° || 0.2mm OUT Overall [-0.03°] || -1.8° || 1.2mm IN each side [0.16°]
|-
| S2 135R || 120/120mm || +3.7° || 0° || 0mm [0.00°] || -1.8° || 1.2mm IN each side [0.16°]
|-
| 340R Road || 100/110mm || +3.8° || -0.5° || 0.2mm OUT Overall [-0.03°] || -2.0° || 1.5mm IN each side [0.20°]
|-
| 340R Track || 100/110mm || +3.8° || -1.8° || 0.5mm OUT Overall [-0.07°]|| -2.7° || 2.5mm IN each side [0.33°]
|-
| Exige S1 || 112/122mm || +3.8° || -0.5° || 0.1mm OUT Overall [-0.01°]|| -2.4° || 1.2mm IN each side [0.16°]
|-
| Exige S2 || 130/130mm || +3.8° || -0.3° || 0mm [0.00°] || -1.8° || 1.5mm IN each side [0.20°]
|-
| Exige 240R || 120/120mm || +3.8° || -0.3° || 0mm [0.00°] || -1.8° || 1.5mm IN each side [0.20°]
|-
| Exige V6 Cup || 130/136mm || +2.8° || -0.4° || 0.4mm OUT Overall mm [-0.06°] || -1.9° || 2.5mm IN each side [0.30°]
|-
| Exige 380/410/430 Cup || 130/136mm || +2.8° || -0.8° || x.xmm OUT Overall mm [-0.12°] || -2.10° || x,xmm IN each side [0.6°]
|-
| 111R || 130/130mm || +3.8° || -0.1° || 0mm [0.00°] || -1.8° || 1.2mm IN each side [0.16°]
|-
| 211 || 100/110mm || +4.0° || -1.4° || 0mm [0.00°] || -2.5° || 1.2mm IN each side [0.16°]
|-
| Msport || 100/110mm || +3.8° || -0.3° || 0.2mm OUT Overall [-0.03°] || -2.0° || 1.2mm IN each side [0.16°]
|-style="background-color:#fed200;"
| colspan=7 | Non-Standard Geo Settings
|-
| a forum hero S2 race || 110/115mm || +3.6° || -2.0° || 0.5 mm OUT each side [-0.07°] || -3.0° || 1 mm IN each side [0.13°]
|}

The standard settings are used when car is loaded with 2x75kg passengers and half tank of fuel.

===Evora===

{| border=1 cellpadding=5 align=center
|- style="background-color:#fed200; face:bold;"
| rowspan=2 | Geometry || rowspan=2 | Ride Height<br />Front/Rear || colspan=3 align=center | Front || colspan=2 align=center | Rear
|- style="background-color:#fed200;"
| Castor || Camber || Toe || Camber || Toe
|-
| Standard || 125/147mm || +5.2° || -0.3° || 0mm || -1.6° || 1.5mm IN each side
|-
|}

Converting toe from mm to degrees:

# Measure the rim diameter in mm as the size e.g. 17" is not the actual diameter your measurements are based on.
# Multiply the result by PI to get the circumference.
# Divide the result by 360 to get mm per degree.
# Divide the toe mm by the mm/degree result to get toe in decimal degrees

Or Excel =DEGREES( ASIN( TOE_IN_MM / ( RIM_DIA_INCHES * 25.4 )))

Or use the calculator on this page, hypotenuse is the rim diameter the toe per wheel (total toe divided by 2) in mm is width (or toe in degrees is angle A). * http://joyfulcoder.net/sohcahtoa/

== Geo setting X does Y ==
Some starter guidelines although its really really complex stuff and dependent on many other factors;

* Increasing front camber from the default -0.1° to -0.5° each side will dramatically improve the understeer, although the inside edges of the tyres will wear slightly faster. Increasing past -1.0° is great for high speed corners but can compromise low speed cornering, will reduce braking effectiveness and it will tramline on the road.

* Increasing rear camber from the default -1.8° to -2.0° (or higher) makes the car more neutral after you've removed the under steer with front camber. Look at the ratios on the standard settings and maintain the front/rear % delta.

* Front toe affects stability or responsiveness of turn in. Front Toe out (standard) makes the car more responsive turn in but causes additional drag in straights. Front toe in is more stable in straight line.

* Rear Toe controls the stability of the rear through the corner. Rear toe in (standard) makes the car more stable and apparently the elise toes in more at the rear as the suspension compresses. Rear toe out causes the rear to steer out from the corner, reducing stability.

== Factors affecting Geo ==
When asking questions on the forums about "the best geo for ..." the following need to be considred so make an effort to specify;

* What you are using the car for (road, sprint race, endurance race)
* Tyre spec (section & compound)
* Spring rates
* Damper spec and settings
* Ride height
* Current Geo settings
* Perceived problems with current setup

== Setting your own geo ==
Whilst a race prep specialist can charge £200 for a Geo you can DIY castor, camber and toe settings. With a lot of variability in quality at alignment centres (and Lotus dealers !) for the best results put the effort in yourself and build a string based alignment rig which can be more accurate than a computerised laser system. To make a DIY geo/alignmnet rig see:[[Geo Alignment Rig (Home Made)]]

1. The Hunter computerised laser alignment system is one of the best (the variabiltiy is quality of the operator) http://www.alignmycar.co.uk will find a local place with a Hunter alignment system who will provide a setup sheet showing castor, camber and toe (probably in dd:mm:ss rather than decimal degrees) for £15 and can set the front and rear toe for another £30.

2. If you are going to DIY you must have the relevant S1 or S2 service manual suspension sections. Setting castor and camber is straightforward as a caster washer and camber shim have fixed values, whereas toe is delicate - which way do you wind the flats and a quarter turn of the track rod can alter the toe by 2mm (e.g. just tightening the locknuts).

'''Absolutley critical to getting a good geo is having the right ballast in the seats e.g. for a 780Kg race Elise the difference between empty and an 85Kg driver is 5mm ride height, 0.2° camber and 1mm toe. (Depending on Spring rates used) Don't let your alignment place guess'''

==See Also==
* http://arc.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=52913 - The pole & string thread by Randy
* http://arc.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=49382
* http://arc.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=106461
* http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/581498-stringless-wheel-alignment-diyers.html

[[Category:Suspension]]
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S1]]
[[Category:S2]]
[[Category:Lotus 2-Eleven]]
[[Category:S2 Exige]]
[[Category:Lotus Europa]]
[[Category:Lotus Evora]]
[[Category:VX220]]

Geo Setups

2023-08-02T15:15:31Z

BillyB: /* Elise/Exige */

== Standard Setups ==

===Elise/Exige===

{| border=1 cellpadding=5 align=center
|- style="background-color:#fed200; face:bold;"
| rowspan=2 | Geometry || rowspan=2 | Ride Height<br />Front/Rear || colspan=3 align=center | Front || colspan=2 align=center | Rear
|- style="background-color:#fed200;"
| Castor || Camber || Toe [Degrees] || Camber || Toe [Degrees]
|-
| Standard S1 & S2 || 130/130mm || +3.8° || -0.1° || 0.2mm OUT Overall [-0.03°] || -1.8° || 1.2mm IN each side [0.16°]
|-
| S2 135R || 120/120mm || +3.7° || 0° || 0mm [0.00°] || -1.8° || 1.2mm IN each side [0.16°]
|-
| 340R Road || 100/110mm || +3.8° || -0.5° || 0.2mm OUT Overall [-0.03°] || -2.0° || 1.5mm IN each side [0.20°]
|-
| 340R Track || 100/110mm || +3.8° || -1.8° || 0.5mm OUT Overall [-0.07°]|| -2.7° || 2.5mm IN each side [0.33°]
|-
| Exige S1 || 112/122mm || +3.8° || -0.5° || 0.1mm OUT Overall [-0.01°]|| -2.4° || 1.2mm IN each side [0.16°]
|-
| Exige S2 || 130/130mm || +3.8° || -0.3° || 0mm [0.00°] || -1.8° || 1.5mm IN each side [0.20°]
|-
| Exige 240R || 120/120mm || +3.8° || -0.3° || 0mm [0.00°] || -1.8° || 1.5mm IN each side [0.20°]
|-
| Exige V6 Cup || 130/136mm || +2.8° || -0.4° || 0.4mm OUT Overall mm [-0.06°] || -1.9° || 2.5mm IN each side [0.30°]
|-
| Exige 380/410/430 Cup || 130/136mm || +2.8° || -0.8° || 0.12mm OUT Overall mm [-x.x°] || -2.10° || 0.6mm IN each side [x.x°]
|-
| 111R || 130/130mm || +3.8° || -0.1° || 0mm [0.00°] || -1.8° || 1.2mm IN each side [0.16°]
|-
| 211 || 100/110mm || +4.0° || -1.4° || 0mm [0.00°] || -2.5° || 1.2mm IN each side [0.16°]
|-
| Msport || 100/110mm || +3.8° || -0.3° || 0.2mm OUT Overall [-0.03°] || -2.0° || 1.2mm IN each side [0.16°]
|-style="background-color:#fed200;"
| colspan=7 | Non-Standard Geo Settings
|-
| a forum hero S2 race || 110/115mm || +3.6° || -2.0° || 0.5 mm OUT each side [-0.07°] || -3.0° || 1 mm IN each side [0.13°]
|}

The standard settings are used when car is loaded with 2x75kg passengers and half tank of fuel.

===Evora===

{| border=1 cellpadding=5 align=center
|- style="background-color:#fed200; face:bold;"
| rowspan=2 | Geometry || rowspan=2 | Ride Height<br />Front/Rear || colspan=3 align=center | Front || colspan=2 align=center | Rear
|- style="background-color:#fed200;"
| Castor || Camber || Toe || Camber || Toe
|-
| Standard || 125/147mm || +5.2° || -0.3° || 0mm || -1.6° || 1.5mm IN each side
|-
|}

Converting toe from mm to degrees:

# Measure the rim diameter in mm as the size e.g. 17" is not the actual diameter your measurements are based on.
# Multiply the result by PI to get the circumference.
# Divide the result by 360 to get mm per degree.
# Divide the toe mm by the mm/degree result to get toe in decimal degrees

Or Excel =DEGREES( ASIN( TOE_IN_MM / ( RIM_DIA_INCHES * 25.4 )))

Or use the calculator on this page, hypotenuse is the rim diameter the toe per wheel (total toe divided by 2) in mm is width (or toe in degrees is angle A). * http://joyfulcoder.net/sohcahtoa/

== Geo setting X does Y ==
Some starter guidelines although its really really complex stuff and dependent on many other factors;

* Increasing front camber from the default -0.1° to -0.5° each side will dramatically improve the understeer, although the inside edges of the tyres will wear slightly faster. Increasing past -1.0° is great for high speed corners but can compromise low speed cornering, will reduce braking effectiveness and it will tramline on the road.

* Increasing rear camber from the default -1.8° to -2.0° (or higher) makes the car more neutral after you've removed the under steer with front camber. Look at the ratios on the standard settings and maintain the front/rear % delta.

* Front toe affects stability or responsiveness of turn in. Front Toe out (standard) makes the car more responsive turn in but causes additional drag in straights. Front toe in is more stable in straight line.

* Rear Toe controls the stability of the rear through the corner. Rear toe in (standard) makes the car more stable and apparently the elise toes in more at the rear as the suspension compresses. Rear toe out causes the rear to steer out from the corner, reducing stability.

== Factors affecting Geo ==
When asking questions on the forums about "the best geo for ..." the following need to be considred so make an effort to specify;

* What you are using the car for (road, sprint race, endurance race)
* Tyre spec (section & compound)
* Spring rates
* Damper spec and settings
* Ride height
* Current Geo settings
* Perceived problems with current setup

== Setting your own geo ==
Whilst a race prep specialist can charge £200 for a Geo you can DIY castor, camber and toe settings. With a lot of variability in quality at alignment centres (and Lotus dealers !) for the best results put the effort in yourself and build a string based alignment rig which can be more accurate than a computerised laser system. To make a DIY geo/alignmnet rig see:[[Geo Alignment Rig (Home Made)]]

1. The Hunter computerised laser alignment system is one of the best (the variabiltiy is quality of the operator) http://www.alignmycar.co.uk will find a local place with a Hunter alignment system who will provide a setup sheet showing castor, camber and toe (probably in dd:mm:ss rather than decimal degrees) for £15 and can set the front and rear toe for another £30.

2. If you are going to DIY you must have the relevant S1 or S2 service manual suspension sections. Setting castor and camber is straightforward as a caster washer and camber shim have fixed values, whereas toe is delicate - which way do you wind the flats and a quarter turn of the track rod can alter the toe by 2mm (e.g. just tightening the locknuts).

'''Absolutley critical to getting a good geo is having the right ballast in the seats e.g. for a 780Kg race Elise the difference between empty and an 85Kg driver is 5mm ride height, 0.2° camber and 1mm toe. (Depending on Spring rates used) Don't let your alignment place guess'''

==See Also==
* http://arc.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=52913 - The pole & string thread by Randy
* http://arc.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=49382
* http://arc.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=106461
* http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/581498-stringless-wheel-alignment-diyers.html

[[Category:Suspension]]
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S1]]
[[Category:S2]]
[[Category:Lotus 2-Eleven]]
[[Category:S2 Exige]]
[[Category:Lotus Europa]]
[[Category:Lotus Evora]]
[[Category:VX220]]

Tyre pressures

2021-08-23T15:23:01Z

BillyB: /* Tyre pressures */

===Tyre pressures===

Make sure you buy a tyre pressure gauge of your own, who knows when the last time the air pump at the garage was calibrated.

Buying your own gauge will insure you get similar readings.

'''Please enter all readings as COLD for Road and HOT for Track'''

Please beware that tyre pressure is part of your suspension setup and the pressure numbers from the manual is a good start if you run factory geo and OE tyres. Anything else is trial and error.

That said starting at the low end will help you find the correct pressure faster.

'''As used by other SELOC members:'''

{| border="1"
|-
| '''Elise S1'''||'''FRONT'''||'''REAR'''||'''SIZE'''||'''Road or Track?'''||'''Used by'''
|-
|Toyo R888||22||24||||Road||
|-
|Yokohama Advan Neova LTS||22||24||||Road||
|-
|Yokohama Advan Neova LTS||20||22||||Road||Mr Wiki in the Summer
|-
|Yokohama Advan Neova LTS||22||24||||Road||Mr Wiki in the winter
|-
|Yokohama Advan A048r (M)||23||24||195/255||Road||sc-009
|-
|Yokohama Advan A048||27||28||||Track||
|-
|Toyo Proxies T1R||24 ||26||||Road||
|-
|Toyo R1R||22 ||24||||Road||
|-
|BF Goodrich G Force Profilers||22||24||||Road||
|-
|Yoko C Drive||22 ||24||||Road||
|-
|Kumho Ecsta KU31||24 ||26||||Road||
|-
|Kumho Ecsta KU31||23 ||24||195/225||Road (Wet)||sc-009
|-
|Kumho Ecsta KU31||26 ||26||195/225||Track||sc-009
|-
|Kumho Ecsta KU31||23 ||25||195/225||Road||sida
|-
|Kumho Ecsta KU31||26 ||28||195/225||Track||sida
|-
|Hankook RS2||24 ||26||195/225||Road||ReVolt
|}

The Elise manual says 26F/27.5R for Bridgestones on a K series but this may be too high with rear centre tread wearing first.

{| border="1"
|-
| '''Elise S2 K series'''||'''FRONT'''||'''REAR'''||'''Road or Track?'''||'''Used by'''
|-
|Yoko AD07||22||24||Road & Track||
|-
|Bridgestones||24||26||Road||
|-
|Bridgestones||26 ||27.5||Road (and no abnormal centre wear at all)||
|-
|Bridgestones||24||26||Track||
|-
|Yoko AD07||23 ||25||Road||
|-
|Toyo R888||22 ||24||Road||
|-
|Toyo R888||20 ||22||Track||
|-
|Yoko AO48||22 ||24||Road||
|-
|Dunlop SP9000||24 ||26||Road||
|}

The Elise manual says 26F/29R for Bridgestones on a Toyota-engined Elise Standard 111R

{| border="1"
|-
| '''Elise S2 Toyota'''||'''FRONT'''||'''REAR'''||'''Road or Track?'''||'''Used by'''
|-
|Yokohama AD07||23||25||Road||
|-
|Yokohama A048||22||24||Road||
|-
|Bridgestones||23||24||Road||
|-
|Toyo R1R||22||24||Road||Juninho1976
|-
|Nankang NS-2R||25||26||Track|| BillyB
|-
|Tyre Name||PSI ||PSI||?||
|-
|Tyre Name||PSI ||PSI||?||
|}

{| border="1"
|-
| '''Exige S2 Toyota''' ||'''FRONT'''||'''REAR'''||'''Road or Track?'''||'''Used by'''
|-
|Yokohama A048||22||24||Track||
|-
|Yokohama A048||24 ||26||Road||
|-
|Toyo T1-R||26||28||Road||
|-
|Toyo 888||19||23||Track||
|-
|Kumho Ecsta KU31||24 ||26||Road||Pau lito
|}

{| border="1"
|-
|'''Europa'''||'''FRONT'''||'''REAR'''||'''Road or Track?'''
|-
|Tyre Name||PSI||PSI||?
|-
|Tyre Name||PSI ||PSI||?
|-
|Tyre Name||PSI ||PSI||?
|}

===Toyo 888 Tyre Pressures===

Extracted from the following thread:

http://forums.seloc.org/t/222602

My name is Alan Meaker, I am the Motorsport Manager for Toyo Tyres (UK) Ltd.

I was at Rockingham on the Saturday 1ST March at the LOT trackday and worked with a couple of cars using our R888 tyre regarding pressures and tread temperatures.

What I would like to do is to offer some advice on tyre temperatures and pressures and how to achieve the best from our tyres when taking part in either trackdays or racing.

The R888 has a semi race construction (very stiff) and a race tread compound. The optimum tread temperature range is between 85C and 95C measured using a probe type pyrometer, and ideally a maximum difference across the tread of 9C. The maximum hot pressure we recommend is 40psi. Camber angles up to 5 degrees are permissible but the final setting will depend on tread temperatures. It is advisable to have as much positive castor as practical as castor induces a beneficial camber change during cornering. I recommend that the tyres be put through 2 heat cycles before hard use.

The pressures you use will initially depend on the weight of the car, too little pressure on a heavy car can lead to over deflection of the tyre and subsequent failure.

Below are some basic settings:

{|style="text-align: center;"
!VEHICLE WEIGHT!!COLD PRESSURE!!HOT PRESSURE
|-
|Very Light < 800kg||17 - 22 psi||22 - 29 psi
|-
|Light 800kg - 1000kg||20 - 26 psi||24 - 32 psi
|-
|Heavy 1000kg - 1400kg||23 - 27 psi||28 - 40 psi
|-
|Very Heavy > 1400kg||27 - 35 psi||37 - 40 psi
|}

As a tyre gets hotter the pressure increases, this is due to the moisture in the air. The cold pressure you set to achieve a desired hot pressure will depend on the conditions on the day i.e. ambient and track temperature, wet or dry. If the day/track is cold you will need to start with a higher cold pressure as the tyre will not get as hot therefore the pressure increase will not be so great.
Hot pressures must be balanced side to side. Once the tyres have cooled you will find that you will have a difference in pressure side to side, if you have been racing on a right hand track you will find the offside pressures will usually be higher than the nearside.

Changing hot inflation pressures by small amounts can be used to fine tune handling.

Reduce Oversteer Reduce rear pressures or increase front pressures
Increase Oversteer Increase rear pressures or reduce front pressures
Reduce Understeer Reduce front pressures or increase rear pressures
Increase Understeer Increase front pressures or reduce rear pressures

Achieving the required tread temperatures will depend again on the conditions on the day i.e. ambient and track temperature, wet or dry.

You often here competitors saying “My tyres started to go of towards the end of the race”, this is usually due to the tread getting to hot.

The tread temperatures are constantly changing through out a race, hotter when cornering and cooler when on the straights and cooling even more when you are slowing to come into the pits. Therefore the temps you record in the pits will be lower than those during the race. So if you record temperatures within the range given above the probability is the temps will be too high during the race.

Increasing your tyre pressures will cause your tread temperatures to increase, more pressure stiffens the tyre’s casing which results in the tread having to do more work resulting in the tread getting hotter. Lowering your pressures will cause them to decrease.

Inevitably changing one thing will affect other things, the whole set up of your car is a compromise between anything that is adjustable.

Some of you are also asking about different compounds. Originally we only had one compound ‘GG’ (medium hard), but we have now introduced some sizes in a ‘SG’ (soft/wet) compound. This was done primarily for sprint/hillclimb (around 60 second runs) where the distances covered are relatively short and you need the tyres to work/heat up very quickly. This is not a compound I would recommend for race/trackday dry use as the tyres will go off very quickly.

The sizes that will be available are:

185/60R13, 205/60R13, 195/50R15, 205/50R15, 225/45R16, 225/45R17.

Another subject is the introduction of our Proxes R1R. This tyre was due to be launched at the beginning of 2008, unfortunately this has been delayed to at least mid 2008 but there is a good chance it will be latter than this. Regarding sizes, initially we will have a rear fit (225/45ZR17) but not the front (195/50R16).

I hope this is of some use to you.

If I can be of any further assistance please give me a call.

01933 414537

Best Regards

Alan

[[Category:Wheels and tyres]]
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S1]]
[[Category:S2]]
[[Category:S2 Exige]]

Tyre pressures

2021-08-23T15:22:21Z

BillyB: /* Tyre pressures */

===Tyre pressures===

Make sure you buy a tyre pressure gauge of your own, who knows when the last time the air pump at the garage was calibrated.

Buying your own gauge will insure you get similar readings.

'''Please enter all readings as COLD for Road and HOT for Track'''

Please beware that tyre pressure is part of your suspension setup and the pressure numbers from the manual is a good start if you run factory geo and OE tyres. Anything else is trial and error.

That said starting at the low end will help you find the correct pressure faster.

'''As used by other SELOC members:'''

{| border="1"
|-
| '''Elise S1'''||'''FRONT'''||'''REAR'''||'''SIZE'''||'''Road or Track?'''||'''Used by'''
|-
|Toyo R888||22||24||||Road||
|-
|Yokohama Advan Neova LTS||22||24||||Road||
|-
|Yokohama Advan Neova LTS||20||22||||Road||Mr Wiki in the Summer
|-
|Yokohama Advan Neova LTS||22||24||||Road||Mr Wiki in the winter
|-
|Yokohama Advan A048r (M)||23||24||195/255||Road||sc-009
|-
|Yokohama Advan A048||27||28||||Track||
|-
|Toyo Proxies T1R||24 ||26||||Road||
|-
|Toyo R1R||22 ||24||||Road||
|-
|BF Goodrich G Force Profilers||22||24||||Road||
|-
|Yoko C Drive||22 ||24||||Road||
|-
|Kumho Ecsta KU31||24 ||26||||Road||
|-
|Kumho Ecsta KU31||23 ||24||195/225||Road (Wet)||sc-009
|-
|Kumho Ecsta KU31||26 ||26||195/225||Track||sc-009
|-
|Kumho Ecsta KU31||23 ||25||195/225||Road||sida
|-
|Kumho Ecsta KU31||26 ||28||195/225||Track||sida
|-
|Hankook RS2||24 ||26||195/225||Road||ReVolt
|}

The Elise manual says 26F/27.5R for Bridgestones on a K series but this may be too high with rear centre tread wearing first.

{| border="1"
|-
| '''Elise S2 K series'''||'''FRONT'''||'''REAR'''||'''Road or Track?'''||'''Used by'''
|-
|Yoko AD07||22||24||Road & Track||
|-
|Bridgestones||24||26||Road||
|-
|Bridgestones||26 ||27.5||Road (and no abnormal centre wear at all)||
|-
|Bridgestones||24||26||Track||
|-
|Yoko AD07||23 ||25||Road||
|-
|Toyo R888||22 ||24||Road||
|-
|Toyo R888||20 ||22||Track||
|-
|Yoko AO48||22 ||24||Road||
|-
|Dunlop SP9000||24 ||26||Road||
|}

The Elise manual says 26F/29R for Bridgestones on a Toyota-engined Elise Standard 111R

{| border="1"
|-
| '''Elise S2 Toyota'''||'''FRONT'''||'''REAR'''||'''Road or Track?'''||'''Used by'''
|-
|Yokohama AD07||23||25||Road||
|-
|Yokohama A048||22||24||Road||
|-
|Bridgestones||23||24||Road||
|-
|Toyo R1R||22||24||Road||Juninho1976
|-
|Nankang NS2-R||25||26||Track|| BillyB
|-
|Tyre Name||PSI ||PSI||?||
|-
|Tyre Name||PSI ||PSI||?||
|}

{| border="1"
|-
| '''Exige S2 Toyota''' ||'''FRONT'''||'''REAR'''||'''Road or Track?'''||'''Used by'''
|-
|Yokohama A048||22||24||Track||
|-
|Yokohama A048||24 ||26||Road||
|-
|Toyo T1-R||26||28||Road||
|-
|Toyo 888||19||23||Track||
|-
|Kumho Ecsta KU31||24 ||26||Road||Pau lito
|}

{| border="1"
|-
|'''Europa'''||'''FRONT'''||'''REAR'''||'''Road or Track?'''
|-
|Tyre Name||PSI||PSI||?
|-
|Tyre Name||PSI ||PSI||?
|-
|Tyre Name||PSI ||PSI||?
|}

===Toyo 888 Tyre Pressures===

Extracted from the following thread:

http://forums.seloc.org/t/222602

My name is Alan Meaker, I am the Motorsport Manager for Toyo Tyres (UK) Ltd.

I was at Rockingham on the Saturday 1ST March at the LOT trackday and worked with a couple of cars using our R888 tyre regarding pressures and tread temperatures.

What I would like to do is to offer some advice on tyre temperatures and pressures and how to achieve the best from our tyres when taking part in either trackdays or racing.

The R888 has a semi race construction (very stiff) and a race tread compound. The optimum tread temperature range is between 85C and 95C measured using a probe type pyrometer, and ideally a maximum difference across the tread of 9C. The maximum hot pressure we recommend is 40psi. Camber angles up to 5 degrees are permissible but the final setting will depend on tread temperatures. It is advisable to have as much positive castor as practical as castor induces a beneficial camber change during cornering. I recommend that the tyres be put through 2 heat cycles before hard use.

The pressures you use will initially depend on the weight of the car, too little pressure on a heavy car can lead to over deflection of the tyre and subsequent failure.

Below are some basic settings:

{|style="text-align: center;"
!VEHICLE WEIGHT!!COLD PRESSURE!!HOT PRESSURE
|-
|Very Light < 800kg||17 - 22 psi||22 - 29 psi
|-
|Light 800kg - 1000kg||20 - 26 psi||24 - 32 psi
|-
|Heavy 1000kg - 1400kg||23 - 27 psi||28 - 40 psi
|-
|Very Heavy > 1400kg||27 - 35 psi||37 - 40 psi
|}

As a tyre gets hotter the pressure increases, this is due to the moisture in the air. The cold pressure you set to achieve a desired hot pressure will depend on the conditions on the day i.e. ambient and track temperature, wet or dry. If the day/track is cold you will need to start with a higher cold pressure as the tyre will not get as hot therefore the pressure increase will not be so great.
Hot pressures must be balanced side to side. Once the tyres have cooled you will find that you will have a difference in pressure side to side, if you have been racing on a right hand track you will find the offside pressures will usually be higher than the nearside.

Changing hot inflation pressures by small amounts can be used to fine tune handling.

Reduce Oversteer Reduce rear pressures or increase front pressures
Increase Oversteer Increase rear pressures or reduce front pressures
Reduce Understeer Reduce front pressures or increase rear pressures
Increase Understeer Increase front pressures or reduce rear pressures

Achieving the required tread temperatures will depend again on the conditions on the day i.e. ambient and track temperature, wet or dry.

You often here competitors saying “My tyres started to go of towards the end of the race”, this is usually due to the tread getting to hot.

The tread temperatures are constantly changing through out a race, hotter when cornering and cooler when on the straights and cooling even more when you are slowing to come into the pits. Therefore the temps you record in the pits will be lower than those during the race. So if you record temperatures within the range given above the probability is the temps will be too high during the race.

Increasing your tyre pressures will cause your tread temperatures to increase, more pressure stiffens the tyre’s casing which results in the tread having to do more work resulting in the tread getting hotter. Lowering your pressures will cause them to decrease.

Inevitably changing one thing will affect other things, the whole set up of your car is a compromise between anything that is adjustable.

Some of you are also asking about different compounds. Originally we only had one compound ‘GG’ (medium hard), but we have now introduced some sizes in a ‘SG’ (soft/wet) compound. This was done primarily for sprint/hillclimb (around 60 second runs) where the distances covered are relatively short and you need the tyres to work/heat up very quickly. This is not a compound I would recommend for race/trackday dry use as the tyres will go off very quickly.

The sizes that will be available are:

185/60R13, 205/60R13, 195/50R15, 205/50R15, 225/45R16, 225/45R17.

Another subject is the introduction of our Proxes R1R. This tyre was due to be launched at the beginning of 2008, unfortunately this has been delayed to at least mid 2008 but there is a good chance it will be latter than this. Regarding sizes, initially we will have a rear fit (225/45ZR17) but not the front (195/50R16).

I hope this is of some use to you.

If I can be of any further assistance please give me a call.

01933 414537

Best Regards

Alan

[[Category:Wheels and tyres]]
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S1]]
[[Category:S2]]
[[Category:S2 Exige]]

Tyre pressures

2021-06-21T14:20:43Z

BillyB: /* Tyre pressures */

===Tyre pressures===

Make sure you buy a tyre pressure gauge of your own, who knows when the last time the air pump at the garage was calibrated.

Buying your own gauge will insure you get similar readings.

'''Please enter all readings as COLD for Road and HOT for Track'''

Please beware that tyre pressure is part of your suspension setup and the pressure numbers from the manual is a good start if you run factory geo and OE tyres. Anything else is trial and error.

That said starting at the low end will help you find the correct pressure faster.

'''As used by other SELOC members:'''

{| border="1"
|-
| '''Elise S1'''||'''FRONT'''||'''REAR'''||'''SIZE'''||'''Road or Track?'''||'''Used by'''
|-
|Toyo R888||22||24||||Road||
|-
|Yokohama Advan Neova LTS||22||24||||Road||
|-
|Yokohama Advan Neova LTS||20||22||||Road||Mr Wiki in the Summer
|-
|Yokohama Advan Neova LTS||22||24||||Road||Mr Wiki in the winter
|-
|Yokohama Advan A048r (M)||23||24||195/255||Road||sc-009
|-
|Yokohama Advan A048||27||28||||Track||
|-
|Toyo Proxies T1R||24 ||26||||Road||
|-
|Toyo R1R||22 ||24||||Road||
|-
|BF Goodrich G Force Profilers||22||24||||Road||
|-
|Yoko C Drive||22 ||24||||Road||
|-
|Kumho Ecsta KU31||24 ||26||||Road||
|-
|Kumho Ecsta KU31||23 ||24||195/225||Road (Wet)||sc-009
|-
|Kumho Ecsta KU31||26 ||26||195/225||Track||sc-009
|-
|Kumho Ecsta KU31||23 ||25||195/225||Road||sida
|-
|Kumho Ecsta KU31||26 ||28||195/225||Track||sida
|-
|Hankook RS2||24 ||26||195/225||Road||ReVolt
|}

The Elise manual says 26F/27.5R for Bridgestones on a K series but this may be too high with rear centre tread wearing first.

{| border="1"
|-
| '''Elise S2 K series'''||'''FRONT'''||'''REAR'''||'''Road or Track?'''||'''Used by'''
|-
|Yoko AD07||22||24||Road & Track||
|-
|Bridgestones||24||26||Road||
|-
|Bridgestones||26 ||27.5||Road (and no abnormal centre wear at all)||
|-
|Bridgestones||24||26||Track||
|-
|Yoko AD07||23 ||25||Road||
|-
|Toyo R888||22 ||24||Road||
|-
|Toyo R888||20 ||22||Track||
|-
|Yoko AO48||22 ||24||Road||
|-
|Dunlop SP9000||24 ||26||Road||
|}

The Elise manual says 26F/29R for Bridgestones on a Toyota-engined Elise Standard 111R

{| border="1"
|-
| '''Elise S2 Toyota'''||'''FRONT'''||'''REAR'''||'''Road or Track?'''||'''Used by'''
|-
|Yokohama AD07||23||25||Road||
|-
|Yokohama A048||22||24||Road||
|-
|Bridgestones||23||24||Road||
|-
|Toyo R1R||22||24||Road||Juninho1976
|-
|Nankang NS2-R||23||25||Track|| BillyB
|-
|Tyre Name||PSI ||PSI||?||
|-
|Tyre Name||PSI ||PSI||?||
|}

{| border="1"
|-
| '''Exige S2 Toyota''' ||'''FRONT'''||'''REAR'''||'''Road or Track?'''||'''Used by'''
|-
|Yokohama A048||22||24||Track||
|-
|Yokohama A048||24 ||26||Road||
|-
|Toyo T1-R||26||28||Road||
|-
|Toyo 888||19||23||Track||
|-
|Kumho Ecsta KU31||24 ||26||Road||Pau lito
|}

{| border="1"
|-
|'''Europa'''||'''FRONT'''||'''REAR'''||'''Road or Track?'''
|-
|Tyre Name||PSI||PSI||?
|-
|Tyre Name||PSI ||PSI||?
|-
|Tyre Name||PSI ||PSI||?
|}

===Toyo 888 Tyre Pressures===

Extracted from the following thread:

http://forums.seloc.org/t/222602

My name is Alan Meaker, I am the Motorsport Manager for Toyo Tyres (UK) Ltd.

I was at Rockingham on the Saturday 1ST March at the LOT trackday and worked with a couple of cars using our R888 tyre regarding pressures and tread temperatures.

What I would like to do is to offer some advice on tyre temperatures and pressures and how to achieve the best from our tyres when taking part in either trackdays or racing.

The R888 has a semi race construction (very stiff) and a race tread compound. The optimum tread temperature range is between 85C and 95C measured using a probe type pyrometer, and ideally a maximum difference across the tread of 9C. The maximum hot pressure we recommend is 40psi. Camber angles up to 5 degrees are permissible but the final setting will depend on tread temperatures. It is advisable to have as much positive castor as practical as castor induces a beneficial camber change during cornering. I recommend that the tyres be put through 2 heat cycles before hard use.

The pressures you use will initially depend on the weight of the car, too little pressure on a heavy car can lead to over deflection of the tyre and subsequent failure.

Below are some basic settings:

{|style="text-align: center;"
!VEHICLE WEIGHT!!COLD PRESSURE!!HOT PRESSURE
|-
|Very Light < 800kg||17 - 22 psi||22 - 29 psi
|-
|Light 800kg - 1000kg||20 - 26 psi||24 - 32 psi
|-
|Heavy 1000kg - 1400kg||23 - 27 psi||28 - 40 psi
|-
|Very Heavy > 1400kg||27 - 35 psi||37 - 40 psi
|}

As a tyre gets hotter the pressure increases, this is due to the moisture in the air. The cold pressure you set to achieve a desired hot pressure will depend on the conditions on the day i.e. ambient and track temperature, wet or dry. If the day/track is cold you will need to start with a higher cold pressure as the tyre will not get as hot therefore the pressure increase will not be so great.
Hot pressures must be balanced side to side. Once the tyres have cooled you will find that you will have a difference in pressure side to side, if you have been racing on a right hand track you will find the offside pressures will usually be higher than the nearside.

Changing hot inflation pressures by small amounts can be used to fine tune handling.

Reduce Oversteer Reduce rear pressures or increase front pressures
Increase Oversteer Increase rear pressures or reduce front pressures
Reduce Understeer Reduce front pressures or increase rear pressures
Increase Understeer Increase front pressures or reduce rear pressures

Achieving the required tread temperatures will depend again on the conditions on the day i.e. ambient and track temperature, wet or dry.

You often here competitors saying “My tyres started to go of towards the end of the race”, this is usually due to the tread getting to hot.

The tread temperatures are constantly changing through out a race, hotter when cornering and cooler when on the straights and cooling even more when you are slowing to come into the pits. Therefore the temps you record in the pits will be lower than those during the race. So if you record temperatures within the range given above the probability is the temps will be too high during the race.

Increasing your tyre pressures will cause your tread temperatures to increase, more pressure stiffens the tyre’s casing which results in the tread having to do more work resulting in the tread getting hotter. Lowering your pressures will cause them to decrease.

Inevitably changing one thing will affect other things, the whole set up of your car is a compromise between anything that is adjustable.

Some of you are also asking about different compounds. Originally we only had one compound ‘GG’ (medium hard), but we have now introduced some sizes in a ‘SG’ (soft/wet) compound. This was done primarily for sprint/hillclimb (around 60 second runs) where the distances covered are relatively short and you need the tyres to work/heat up very quickly. This is not a compound I would recommend for race/trackday dry use as the tyres will go off very quickly.

The sizes that will be available are:

185/60R13, 205/60R13, 195/50R15, 205/50R15, 225/45R16, 225/45R17.

Another subject is the introduction of our Proxes R1R. This tyre was due to be launched at the beginning of 2008, unfortunately this has been delayed to at least mid 2008 but there is a good chance it will be latter than this. Regarding sizes, initially we will have a rear fit (225/45ZR17) but not the front (195/50R16).

I hope this is of some use to you.

If I can be of any further assistance please give me a call.

01933 414537

Best Regards

Alan

[[Category:Wheels and tyres]]
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S1]]
[[Category:S2]]
[[Category:S2 Exige]]