TechWiki - User contributions [en-gb]

Over 100k

2024-07-31T13:21:59Z

Chopper: add AlboDr

===The Over 100,000 Miles Club===

{| border="1"
! Name !! Car
|-
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/woody72 woody72]
|| S2
|-
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/silverdreamracer silverdreamracer]
|| S1
|-
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/gpzarquon gpzarquon]
||
Elise S2 Racetech
|-
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/mexican%bandit mexican bandit]
||
Elise 111R
|-
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/Jaye.Tillson Jaye.Tillson]
|| S1
|-
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/Edw Edw]
|| S1
|-
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/jezmondtutu jezmondtutu]
|| S1
|-
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/reAnimate reAnimate]
|| S1
|-
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/Hairyduck Hairyduck]
|| S1
|-
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/oneslip Oneslip]
|| S1
|-
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/BrianDrought BrianDrought]
|| S1
|-
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/Liam Liam]
|| S1
|-
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/GaryDVO GaryDVO]
|| S1
|-
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/Tigga! Tigga!]
|| S2
|-
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/Onch Onch]
|| S1
|-
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/Black_potato Black_potato]
|| S1
|-
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/Phil._S Phil._S]
|| S1
|-
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/Romtootes Romtootes]
|| S1
|-
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/Tanuki Tanuki]
|| S1 <- 2013 Lotus Cup UK Production class winning car
|-
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/Linds Linds]
|| S1
|-
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/russcasey russcasey]
|| S1
|-
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/DoubleD DoubleD]
|| S2
|-
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/Spunagain Spunagain]
|| S1
|-
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/jeffers Jeffers]
|| S1
|-
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/SidewaysMatt SidewaysMatt]
|| S1
|-
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/Azlan Azlan]
|| S1
|-
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/Andrew%20S Andrew S]
|| S2
|-
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/Andy_R Andy_R]
|| S1
|-
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/fatwomble fatwomble]
|| S1
|-
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/YvoTuk YvoTuk]
|| S1
|-
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/Hag Hag]
|| S2
|-
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/sc-009 sc-009]
|| S1
|-
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/CMU CMU]
|| S1
|-
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/Daveman Daveman]
|| S1
|-
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/felixj felixj]
|| S2 111S
|-
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/lotusnick lotusnick]
|| S1
|-
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/wcx375 wcx375]
|| 135R
|-
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/AL AL]
|| S1
|-
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/Sinatra Sinatra]
|| S1 111S
|-
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/luckyb luckyb]
|| S1 111r
|-
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/Sid Sid]
|| S2 S135
|-
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/Bazza990 Bazza990]
|| S1
|-
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/MartynL MartynL]
|| S2
|-
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/Karluk00 Karluk00]
|| S1
|-
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/tyrex tyrex]
|| S2
|-
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/dpollard dpollard]
|| S2
|-
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/BruceCrowthorne BruceCrowthorne]
|| S1
|-
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/thebaron thebaron]
|| S1
|-
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/andyelise andyelise]
|| S1
|-
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/Ladders Ladders]
|| S1 111s
|-
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/nolan nolan]
|| S1
|-
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/_jayk _jayk]
|| S1 111s
|-
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/abe+froman Abe Froman]
|| S1 Sport 160
|
|-
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/Hamish Hamish]
|| S1
|-
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/Friso Friso]
|| S2 111S
|
|-
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/opostlethwaite Oli P]
|| S1 111s
|
|-
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/Coen Coen]
|| S1
|-
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/Stephanie+Plum Stephanie Plum]
|| S2 111S T25
|-
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/edo111s Edoardo C]
|| S2 SC
|-
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/Steve+S2 Steve S2]
|| S1
|-
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/Ben Ben]
|| S1
|-
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/Grays Grays]
|| S1
|-
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/TitaniumDan TitaniumDan]
|| S1
|-
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/atshoom2 atshoom2]
|| S1
|-
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/monkeysandbearspants monkeysandbearspants]
||S2 Exige N/A
|-
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/flying+banana flying banana]
||S1 111s
|-
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/series_one series_one]
|| Evora
|-
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/shiner shiner]
|| S1
|-
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/juliasream juliadream]
|| S1
|-
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/Trevor.Jordan Trevor Jordan]
|| S1
|-
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/Toni Toni]
|| S1
|-
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/IceBlueBee IceBlueBee]
|| S2
|-
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/daveb99 daveb99]
|| S1
|-
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/AlboDr AlboDr]
|| S2 (no other car)
|-
|}

===The Over 200,000 Miles Club===

{| border="1"
! Name !! Car
|-
| [http://forums.seloc.org/member.php?action=viewpro&member=Tony111s Tony111s]
|| S1
|-
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/steve69 steve69]
|| S1-111s
|-
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/JPNucCons JPNucCons]
|| S1
|-
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/Mousetroy Mousetroy]
|| S2
|-
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/Hugh.N Hugh.N]
|| S1
|-
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/WCX375 WCX375]
|| 135R
|-
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/Arno Arno]
|| S2
|-
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/cddiment cddiment]
|| S1
|-
|}

===The Over 300,000 Miles Club===

{| border="1"
! Name !! Car
|-
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/Stu Stu]
|| S1
|}

[[Category:Misc]]

Cambelt Change Times

2020-09-17T21:57:43Z

Chopper: Chopper moved page Cambelt Change Times to TechWiki:Cambelt Change Frequency

#REDIRECT [[TechWiki:Cambelt Change Frequency]]

TechWiki:Cambelt Change Frequency

2020-09-17T21:57:43Z

Chopper: Chopper moved page Cambelt Change Times to TechWiki:Cambelt Change Frequency

K Series

Lotus have amended the original schedule and now recommend changing cam belts at least every four years rather than the original six, this will often mean services can become "A+belts", "B+belts", or "C-belts" depending on age and mileage and you will need to track the age of the cambelt separately from the normal service history.

Extract from [http://www.grouplotus.com/car/car_aftsales_techtpc.php?pageID=2 Group Lotus Aftersales bulletin] ...

<blockquote>The synthetic cam belt used on Rover powertrain Elise models is subject to age, as well as usage degradation, and will be adversely affected by any contamination with oil or coolant. In order to bring cam-belt time servicing in line with current Rover recommendations the Service Schedule for all Rover powertrain Elise models was revised in October 2003 to stipulate a cam belt replacement time interval of 4 years (54,000miles/90,000km), with an inspection every 2 years (27,000miles/45,000km). For 340R/Sport 160/Exige models, the corresponding distance intervals are 36,000miles/60,000km, and 18,000miles/30,000km.</blockquote>

2017-03-24T10:21:30Z

Chopper:

This page describes the removal of a tank and pump from an S1 Elise. It will be similar if not identical for most of the Elise based cars

((CLICK ON IMAGES TO ENLARGE ))

'''Word Of Warning before you start'''

***A near empty/empty fuel tank is perhaps more dangerous than a full tank as there is a far greater amount of fumes contained within therefore a greater chance of explosion. Even when empty of fuel, do not expose the tank to any source of heat, flame or spark ***

'''Method'''

1. Ensure you have the minimum amount of petrol as possible in the tank before tackling the work. The tank is not particularly heavy with only a few litres in it but would be a much harder to manoeuvre with half a tank or more sloshing about.

Perform fuel pressure release procedure as follows:-

Remove the fuel pump fuse

Start car and allow engine to run until it dies (if non-runner crank engine for 60 seconds on starter)

2. Lift the rear of the car up high as possible as the tank has to come downward and then sideway to remove from the chassis. The tank fuel filler pipes add a good bit to the height plus the tank will be sitting on a trolley jack to assist lowering/raising.

I ran the car up on ramps, then jacked up and supported on stands the drivers side, then removed the ramp to gain access into the drivers wheel arch.

3. Remove the drivers side rear wheel and arch liner.

4. Remove the undertray and diffuser panel.

5. Undo the gear selection cables at the gear selector ends and cable clips.

[[File:Gear Cable Ends.JPG|thumb|none|Gear Cable Endsl]]
[[File:0502.JPG|thumb|none|Gear Cable Clips]]

Note the direction of travel of the cables under the car and which part of the gear mechanism each cable end connects to.

6. Undo the gear cable fixing on the shear panel

7. Undo the accelerator cable at the throttle body.

Note the position of the lock nut on the threaded end in relation to the throttle cable bracket to avoid having to adjust the throttle position cable on reassembly

Note the route of the throttle cable down the induction side of the engine for repositioning on reassembly

8. Undo the throttle cable clips where it is secured to the shear panel

9. Split the front part of the handbrake cable at the "horseshoe" bracket by removing the “R” clip and pushing the clevis pin out.

There is no need to remove the rear part of the handbrake cable as the shear panel can be slid past it

[[File:Sheer Panel 1000.JPG|thumb|none|Handbrake Horseshoe Disconnected]]

10. Push both the throttle cable, both gear cables and the handbrake cable forwards under the car to allow the tank to drop down.

[[File:2000 (18).JPG|thumb|none|Cables Pushed Forwards]]

11. Undo the bolts and remove the shear panel under the tank. The panel will slide out sideways missing the handbrake cable mounting points with bit of wiggling

[[File:Sheer Panel 1500.JPG|thumb|none|Shear Panel Removal]]

12. Removing the old rubber filler hoses from the tank filler pipes is virtually impossible if they have not been off before. They are likely to be bonded to the tank filler pipes. It is common for the rubber hoses to have perished.

NOW SAVE YOURSELF HOURS AND HOURS of grief and cut off the old rubber pipes and replace with new. (Member "lotusandy" was selling very good quality flouro lined silicon replacements. They literally slide on. He may have some left.)

Others have used boiling water on the old pipes to soften them (See Previous Instructions at end of this page), but once you see the room you have to work in the wheel arch, Personally, I wouldn't bother.

Remove the rubber filler hoses completely ie undo at the fuel filler neck as well, and only refit them after the tank has been replaced. If you just undo the lower connections to the tank, you will struggle refitting the tank and reconnecting the hoses. Space and location make it very difficult.

[[File:2000 (16).JPG|thumb|none|Rubber Hoses at Tank End]]
[[File:2000 (10).JPG|thumb|none|Rubber Hoses at Fuel Inlet End]]

13. Remove the passenger seat (It is possible to undo just the seat belt mount at the winding mechanism end, and leave the other end attached to the seat, then lift the seat out and to the side of the car. The belt end attached to the seat is a fine pitched bolt and is easy to cross thread when refitting)

14. Remove the inspection hatch behind the tank to access the top of the pump/ fuel and electrical connectors.

Although you can see these connectors, they are a complete pain in the ar*e to undo.

Better to drop the tank a cm or two (section 16) then go back and undo the connectors. You will have more space to get your hand through the inspection hatch without lacerating your fingers and wrist.

The electrical cable has plenty of slack but be careful you do not drop the tank too far as the fuel pipe have limited amount of movement and the pipes are only semi flexible

The electrical connector has one tang that requires lifting and then it will come off the pump.

[[File:2000 (28).JPG|thumb|none|Fuel Pump ElectricalConnector]]

The fuel connectors require to be compressed at two points at the same time while pulling the pipe off the pump. Not a great photo but you can see the connectors in this

Rotate the fuel connectors a few degrees each way to break the seal before you try to pull them off.

[[File:2000 (33).JPG|thumb|none|Fuel Pipe Connectors]]

15. With the rubber filler pipes off and the inspection hatch open, support the centre of the tank with a trolley jack and a block of wood. Undo the 4 tank fixing bolts and remove.

16. Drop the tank a few cm's at the pump end (you'll probably find the filler pipe end will jam slightly as the hole in the chassis for them to pass through is tight so the tank will naturally drop at the fuel pump end first).

Now go back into the car and undo the electrical and fuel connectors.

Note which fuel pipe comes off which pump output/input

17. Under the car again and continue to slowly drop the tank. You may have to go back into the wheel arch to help push the filler pipes down through the chassis hole.

18. When the tank is completely lowered, you can pull it sideways out from under the car. To avoid damaging paintwork, it can be slide out on a piece of cardboard/carpet etc
[[File:2000 (20).JPG|thumb|none|Tank Lowered]]

'''Pump Removal/Replacement'''

19. With the tank out, the fuel pump can be removed. The pump is held into the tank by an aluminium upper ring held down by 8 small nuts onto a lower ring with a gasket between

The pump is help in compression by this ring. There are 3 springs inside the pump attempting to push the top of the pump upwards.
[[File:2000 (33) 2.jpg|thumb|none|Fuel Pump Mount]]

20. Remove the 8 mounting nuts by undoing them a few turns at a time rather than each one individually to allow the pump to rise evenly. One of the nuts is located under the pump outlets and requires the use of an open ended spanner initially.

21. Once the ring has been unbolted, the pump may be simply lifted out.

I found that my old foam sealing gasket had expanded excessively. A new gasket is available from Lotus for a few £’s
[[File:2000 (34).JPG|thumb|none|Pump Removed]]

'''Tank Refurbishment'''

22. The original tank is likely to have a lot of surface rust especially around the filler pipe area and the bottom corners.

[[File:2000 (25).JPG|thumb|none|Rusty Filler Pipe Area]]

23. If you intend to remove the rust using mechanical means (sandpaper, angle grinder, wire brush), it is advisable to fill the tank completely with water to expel any remaining petrol fumes. This will make the tank very heavy and unwieldy to manoeuvre but safe from explosion

I used a combination of angle grinder with wire brush and Deox rust remover gel (cover in cling film will prevent it drying out) then prepared and painted with POR15 Metal Ready and paint
[[File:2000 (37).JPG|none|thumb|Tank Stripped]]
[[File:3000 (26).JPG|none|thumb|Tank Painted]]

24. If refurbishing the original tank, it is worth unbolting the lower ring, cleaning and resealing. The holes in this lower ring are threaded and it is held onto the tank by the 8 bolts, the heads are inside the tank. The lower ring is sealed to the tank with a layer of non setting fuel resistant liquid gasket eg blue hylomar.

'''Refitting'''

Refit is virtually a reverse of the above procedure

25. Lift the tank on a trolley jack. Remember to reconnect the electrical and fuel pipes before raising completely into position.

26. Replace the 4 tank mounting bolts loosely. This will give you a bit of movement in the tank to aid fitting the rubber hoses to the tank filler pipes.

27. From within the wheel arch, fit the rubber hoses to the tank filler pipes and secure with jubilee clips, then back under the car and fully tighten the tank mounting bolts.
[[File:3000 (34).JPG|thumb|none|Silicon Hoses]]

28. When refitting, the shear panel, ensure it is torqued up to the correct 24Nm. The panel is an integral part of the chassis support/stiffness.

'''Things to consider while the tank is out'''

29. Replace the brake pipes behind the tank with non corroding Copper/Nickel pipe (Kunifer etc). You will never have to worry about them again.

The brake pipes where they emerge from behind tank into the flow of road dirt and water in front of the rear wheels are the most common areas to rust through.

30. Think about a pump replacement if your car is high mileage. Spitfire Engineering, Eliseshop and Eliseparts all have upgraded or redesigned pumps.

31. Buy new stainless steel jubilee clips for all the rubber hose connections because being a Lotus, you know you’ll be back in here again one day…… :-(

----

'''PREVIOUS INSTRUCTIONS LISTED BELOW'''

'''Removing fuel tank'''

----

'''NOTE:''' This is best done when tank is empty or almost empty as otherwise tank will be heavy!

Perform fuel pressure release procedure as follows:-

- Remove fuel pump fuse

- Start car and allow engine to run until it dies (if non-runner crank engine for 60 seconds on starter)

Remove middle and rear undertrays

Get car as high as possible on axle stands (I jack one side using middle jacking point, then place stands at front and rear sub frame jacking points on one side, then do the same on the other side.

Release gear change cables from gearbox end

Release throttle cable from engine end

Remove r-clip from handbrake cable ‘horseshoe’ connector.

Remove front and rear bolts from sheer panel and remove exposing fuel tank

Remove off-side wheel

Remove off-side wheel arch liner

Pull back sound proofing on engine firewall to expose fuel filler and breather pipes

Loosen all jubilee clips holding pipes to tank

Pour 2 kettles of boiling water over rubber hoses so that they expand and become softer and then pull them off fuel tank connectors

Support fuel tank from underneath using jack(s) or something else suitable

At this point you can try to remove the pump connections as follows but my hands were far too big to make this possible! If you can’t just skip this step for now.

- Remove passenger seat

- Remove fuel pump access panel on shelf behind passenger seat

- Put hand through hole and disconnect fuel pipes by squeezing clips together and electrical connector by pulling tab on side a bit and pulling off

Undo the four fuel tank bolts

Slowly and carefully lower the tank whilst trying to feed the fuel pipes through the bulkhead a bit until you can get you hand up the side of the tank and release the fuel pipes and electrical connector as above

Then lower the tank and remove

Replacement is a reversal of removal but ensure electrical wires are not caught when you refit

Fuel Tank, Removal and Refurbishment

2017-03-23T10:35:16Z

Chopper: Chopper moved page Removing S1 Fuel Tank to Fuel Tank, Removal and Refurbishment: More info and addition of images

'''Removing fuel tank'''

----

'''NOTE:''' This is best done when tank is empty or almost empty as otherwise tank will be heavy!

Perform fuel pressure release procedure as follows:-

- Remove fuel pump fuse

- Start car and allow engine to run until it dies (if non-runner crank engine for 60 seconds on starter)

Remove middle and rear undertrays

Get car as high as possible on axle stands (I jack one side using middle jacking point, then place stands at front and rear sub frame jacking points on one side, then do the same on the other side.

Release gear change cables from gearbox end

Release throttle cable from engine end

Remove r-clip from handbrake cable ‘horseshoe’ connector.

Remove front and rear bolts from sheer panel and remove exposing fuel tank

Remove off-side wheel

Remove off-side wheel arch liner

Pull back sound proofing on engine firewall to expose fuel filler and breather pipes

Loosen all jubilee clips holding pipes to tank

Pour 2 kettles of boiling water over rubber hoses so that they expand and become softer and then pull them off fuel tank connectors

Support fuel tank from underneath using jack(s) or something else suitable

At this point you can try to remove the pump connections as follows but my hands were far too big to make this possible! If you can’t just skip this step for now.

- Remove passenger seat

- Remove fuel pump access panel on shelf behind passenger seat

- Put hand through hole and disconnect fuel pipes by squeezing clips together and electrical connector by pulling tab on side a bit and pulling off

Undo the four fuel tank bolts

Slowly and carefully lower the tank whilst trying to feed the fuel pipes through the bulkhead a bit until you can get you hand up the side of the tank and release the fuel pipes and electrical connector as above

Then lower the tank and remove

Replacement is a reversal of removal but ensure electrical wires are not caught when you refit

Camshaft Seal (K Series)

2016-03-13T12:42:18Z

Chopper:

There are two different camshaft seals used on the K Series head.

Those on the front (timing belt end) are black

Pt No (Rover) LUC100290

Those on the rear are red

Pt No (Rover) LUC100220

As with any engine parts, try and buy OEM seals rather than generic bits from a motor factor/ebay. The chances of chinese tat are high

[[File:P1010037.JPG|thumb|none|New Seals]]

'''Removal'''

1. The seals are a press fit into a recess on the head and can be replaced with the head in situ (requires removal of the distributor/VVC timing pulleys at the rear and /or timing belt pulleys at the front)

The seals will pull out from the head. An ideal tool for this is a plastic coated crotchet needle (has a hook at the end), but a small screwdriver (the blunter, the better) can be used with care.

2. Before removing the old seals, take note how far the seals sit in the head recess, so you can replicate this when inserting the new seals (the seals can be pushed in too far)

3. Insert the removal tool against the inner edge of the camshaft seal and lever outwards. (The camshafts being made of iron are less likely to be scratched than forcing the tool into the outer edge of the seal against the soft alloy of the head)

[[File:P1010040.JPG|thumb|none|Seal Removal]]
Be careful you do not scratch the soft alloy head or the camshaft. Any marks will allow the seals to leak or be worn quickly.

The seals are about 6-7mm deep and consist of a spring wire embedded in rubber so expect a bit of resistance. Its is less forceful to attempt to ease the seal out at 2-3 different points rather than trying to haul it out at a single point due to the depth of the seal and the tight fit in the recess

[[File:P1010043.JPG|thumb|none|Old Camshaft Seals]]

4. Once the old seal is out, check for surface corrosion on the exposed end of the camshafts. If there is any present it should be removed with some very fine wet and dry paper. (If not removed, the corrosion may tear/fray at the inner edge as the new seal is fitted reducing its effectivness). Ensure the seal recess in the head and the camshaft ends are thouroughly cleaned afterwards
[[File:P1010044.JPG|thumb|none|Camshaft Seal Removed]]

'''Replacement'''

5. There is always debate whether seals should be fitted dry or lubricated. Personally, I ensure the outer edge of the seal and the head recess are oil free (brake cleaner is a very effective degreaser) but run a finger with a small amount over the camshaft to aid the inner seal slip over it.

Once mounted over the camshaft, push the new seals into the recess squarely, using a socket slightly smaller than the head recess. Hand pressure is all that is required. As per line 2. Do not push fully home, but fit to the same depth as the old seals

[[File:P1010046.JPG|thumb|none|New seal fitting]]
[[File:P1010047.JPG|thumb|none|New seal seating]]

--[[User:Chopper|Chopper]] ([[User talk:Chopper|talk]]) 12:13, 12 March 2016 (GMT)

Camshaft Seal (K Series)

2016-03-13T12:41:48Z

Chopper:

2016-03-12T12:09:40Z

Chopper:

File:P1010047.JPG

2016-03-12T12:08:25Z

Chopper: New Seal Seating

New Seal Seating

File:P1010046.JPG

2016-03-12T12:06:43Z

Chopper: New seal fitting

New seal fitting

File:P1010044.JPG

2016-03-12T12:04:48Z

Chopper: Camshaft Seal Removed

Camshaft Seal Removed