TechWiki - User contributions [en-gb]

Change a front wheel bearing

2017-05-02T19:52:21Z

Digimap2000: Performed a wheel bearing change so adding my extra notes based on quite a few things going wrong!

{{Infobox Timetools | time=Approx 1 hour - Assuming everything comes apart nicely and the outside bearing racer doesn’t snap off and stay attached to the hub flange - in which case you will need to carefully cut it off using an air grinder etc. | tools=17, 19 and 2 x 24mm Sockets 2 x Extension bars 2 x Big wrenches or Breaker Bars 17mm Spanner 8mm Hex head socket or Allen key Torque wrench Bearing circlip pliers Penetrating fluid Hydraulic press (at least 10 tonne) Duralac Threadlock or Pipe Sealer Toothbrush CV Grease Fine Sandpaper Oven}}

=Preparation=

'''Before you start, take your new wheel bearing and pop in the freezer until required! This will ensure the bearing is as small as it can be prior to fitment!'''

=Replacing the bearing=

'''1.''' Whilst the car is sitting on the ground, pop the wheel cap off and using a breaker bar and a '''24mm''' socket crack the torque off the M16 Clamp bolt as this is tightened to '''210Nm'''.

[[Image:Wheel-bearing-1.JPG|thumb|center|400px|Loosening the M16 Clamp bolt]]

Jack up the car and [[Remove the wheels|remove the wheel]]. Whilst it’s off you may also wish to take the opportunity to clean it thoroughly.

'''2.''' Remove the 2 bolts holding the calliper to the hub body using an '''8mm''' hex socket or Allen key. (bolt to be re-installed using thread lock or pipe sealer and tightened to '''45Nm'''

[[Image:Wheel-bearing-2.JPG|thumb|center|400px|Calliper bolt locations]]

Providing your discs are not too badly worn, you should be able to extract the calliper complete with pads without having to remove the pads. Ensure the calliper is suspended to prevent any damage to the brake pipe work. Next remove the brake disc.

[[Image:Wheel-bearing-3.JPG|thumb|center|400px|Brake disc and calliper removed and properly supported]]

'''3.''' Remove the M16 Clamp bolt using a '''24mm''' socket on each side

[[Image:Wheel-bearing-4.JPG|thumb|center|400px|M16 Clamp bolt removed]]

'''4.''' Now loosen all 6 bolts retaining the steering arm and bottom ball joint plinth. 2 x '''8mm''' hex bolts on steering arm, 4 x '''17mm''' bolts on the bottom plinth. At this point you'll probably want to remove the brake dust shield which is held on with two allen bolts and third hex headed nut hidden under the flange of the hub. The allen bolts will probably be seized and a slot dremelled into the head is enough to get them out. The hidden bolt only needs to be loosened as the shield is slotted. If you had to slot the bolts to get them out then obviously you'll need new ones, take note of the shallow depth of the head, any deeper headed bolts from the drawer will foul the back of the disc.

'''5.''' Remove the 4 x '''17mm''' bolts attaching the bottom plinth, note a '''17mm''' spanner will be necessary for the front 2 bolts do to limited clearance for a socket. When these bolts are re-installed they should be tightened to '''45Nm''', thread lock applied to bolts and Duralac applied to the plinth to prevent corrosion.

[[Image:Wheel-bearing-5.JPG|thumb|center|400px|Lower hub bolt locations]]

[[Image:Wheel-bearing-6.JPG|thumb|center|400px|Removing the front lower hub bolts with a screwdriver]]

It may be necessary to prize the hub from the plinth with a flat screwdriver as previous application of duralac will cause them to stick together.

[[Image:Wheel-bearing-7.JPG|thumb|center|400px|Prizing the hub and plinth apart]]

[[Image:Wheel-bearing-8.JPG|thumb|center|400px|Once separated, apply Duralac to the plinth]]

'''6.''' Remove the 2 x '''8mm''' hex bolts connecting the steering arm ensuring you catch any camber shims that fall out, note Duralac again should be applied to the nearest shim to the alloy hub and bolts re-installed at '''45Nm''' with thread lock.

[[Image:Wheel-bearing-9.JPG|thumb|center|400px|Steering arm bolt location, when removing watch for camber shims]]

[[Image:Wheel-bearing-10.JPG|thumb|center|400px|Apply Duralac to the shim touching the alloy hub]]

'''7.''' Now the hub is removed the specialist tool and part where you make your missus very angry begins.

Spray the bearing and inner hub carrier thoroughly with penetrating fluid and leave a few minutes to soak.

[[Image:Wheel-bearing-11.JPG|thumb|center|400px|Hub removed]]

[[Image:Wheel-bearing-12.JPG|thumb|center|400px|Hub sprayed with penetrating fluid]]

Using a socket which is slightly smaller than the inner bearing shaft of the hub flange suspend the hub flange facing down and press the flange free of the bearing assembly.

[[Image:Wheel-bearing-13.JPG|thumb|center|400px|Pressing the flange shaft out from the hub]]

'''Ensure none of the wheel studs do not contact the stand base or they will be pressed from the flange too.'''

[[Image:Wheel-bearing-14.JPG|thumb|center|400px|The removed flange shaft]]

Clean the flange shaft and if necessary use the fine sand paper to remove any corrosion, apply a tiny bit of grease to aid re-assembly once the bearing has been replaced. There's a reasonable chance here that your bearing has torn itself in half leaving the bottom race still pressed onto the shaft. Don't panic. The simplest way to remove this is to cut 2/3rds of the way through the race with a dremel cutoff wheel (Ideally reinforced but works fine with the regular abrasive wheel). Take your time and cut neatly without nicking into the shaft. With a decent slot cut pop a screwdriver in and tap it sharply. The bearing race is brittle and will crack the rest of the way then it can be slid off easily.

'''8.''' Clean the hub assembly thoroughly and remove the 2 cir-clips front and rear using special cir-clip pliers.

[[Image:Wheel-bearing-15.JPG|thumb|center|400px|Removing the cir-clip]]

Pre-heat an oven to 90degrees and place the whole hub on a piece of greaseproof paper for 20 minutes.

After 20 minutes, remove the hub spray some more penetrating fluid on the bearing itself, this will cause the bearing to cool quicker whilst the alloy is still warm.

'''9.''' Pop the whole assembly in the press with the flattest side facing down, allowing space beneath for the bearing to drop clear. Using a large socket to press the bearing clear. Since the bearing is 68mm you are going to need a monster of a socket to do this with an outer diameter in the 66-67.5mm range. Better if you have a set of bearing drifts in the correct size. At a pinch you can use a handful of equal height impact sockets to make a stable platform to push against but take care that the press doesn't splay them out and start scoring the bore. At this stage the bearing is scrap so you can always use a smaller drift and push on the inner race. Don't even think about doing this without a press, some of mine took 6tonnes force to start them moving then 4 tonnes to drift out.

[[Image:Wheel-bearing-16.JPG|thumb|center|400px|Pressing out the old bearing]]

'''10.''' Clean the inside of the empty hub including the cir-clip recesses, apply a thin smear of grease to the inside of the hub, re-install the inside cir-clip.

Remove the wheel bearing from the freezer, apply a thin smear of grease to the outside of the bearing and seat on top of the hub and using a flat surface on top press the bearing as far home as you can until your flat surface touches the hub body.

To finish pressing the bearing the remainder of the way, it is Important the bearing is pressed home by its outer body to avoid damage to the inner bearing (as pictured) obviously this object needs to have a smaller diameter than the inner hub walls otherwise it will end up attached to the hub too.

[[Image:Wheel-bearing-17.JPG|thumb|center|400px|Outer bearing area marked]]

I ground down the old bearing to make a slightly smaller diameter and used this to finish pressing the new bearing home to the installed cir-clip. (Without a proper grinder you can achieve enough diameter reduction in about 20 minutes either with a dremel or by rolling over a belt sander.

[[Image:Wheel-bearing-18.JPG|thumb|center|400px|Pressing in the new bearing]]

'''11.''' Re-install the final cir-clip and the bearing replacement is complete.

[[Image:Wheel-bearing-19.JPG|thumb|center|400px|Cir-clip and bearing refitted]]

'''12.''' Re-press the hub flange home being careful to support the bearing on the inner race to prevent damage. STOP Ensure you press this home the correct way round, as shown. STOP AGAIN Before you press the flange in... make sure the hex head bolt for the dust shield is already threaded in, you can't put it in once the flange is pressed back.

[[Image:Wheel-bearing-20.JPG|thumb|center|400px|Pressing in the hub flange]]

'''13.''' Re-install the hub, plinth, steering arm and brakes as per guide above.

'''14.''' Stand back and admire your handy work!
[[Image:Wheel-bearing-21.JPG|thumb|center|400px|Voila!]]

More photos and info in this post

http://forums.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=353090&page=1#pid5976460

[[Category:DIY]]
[[Category:Suspension]]
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S1]]

Track rod end

2016-05-08T21:33:49Z

Digimap2000:

===Track rod end===

[[Image:Arb4.jpg|thumb|left]]
{{clr}}

'''Removal'''

Start by marking the top of the tie rod so you can reposition it perfectly when reassembling.

Loosen the locknuts on the steering tie rod whilst the track rod end is still attached at the steering arm, this will stop it flopping around. A couple of spanners are all that's needed to back off the two locknuts one at a time.

With the tie rod lock nuts released tackle the ball joint connecting it to the steering arm. Give the exposed thread below the nut a quick spray with lube. If you're really lucky the nut will undo all the way with no drama, more likely it'll go a few turns then start spinning the ball joint inside it's housing. Don't attempt any of the pry bar techniques on you tube, don't try jacking onto anything, the easy technique is a ratchet strap around the track rod end and lower wishbone. Doesn't have to be all that tight to stop the joint spinning and you can remove the locknut.

Now put the locknut back on a few turns and tap with rubber mallet to release the joint. Remove the track rod end counting the exact number of turns. The locknuts are left on the tie rod if you are simply changing the track rod ends. If you are fitting new steering rack gators then you will need to remove the lock nuts to allow the new gaiter to slide over the tie rod. The tie rod can rotate in the steering rack to allow fine adjustment of the wheel tracking, to remove the locknuts you might need to hold the tie rod firmly with molegrips.

'''Refitting'''

Rotate the tie rod so your mark is upwards, then screw the track rod end back onto the tie rod with the same number of turns as it took to come off. This should put it back onto the car close enough to the exact position it started. You can always get the tracking checked when you are done if worried about wheel alignment. Doesn't need a full geo, just wheel alignment.

Reconnect the track rod end down through the steering arm, you might need the ratchet strap again to stop the joint spinning.

Nip up the tie rod lock nuts against the the track rod end.

===See also===

[http://www.midlandslotus.co.uk/content/index.php/index.html/_/faqwiki/suspension/suspension-refresh-r464 External MLOC Suspension refresh]

[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S1]]
[[Category:S2]]

Track rod end

2016-05-08T21:26:14Z

Digimap2000:

===Track rod end===

[[Image:Arb4.jpg|thumb|left]]
{{clr}}

'''Removal'''

Loosen the locknuts on the steering tie rod whilst the track rod end is still attached at the steering arm, this will stop it flopping around. A couple of spanners are all that's needed to back off the two locknuts one at a time. With the tie rod lock nuts released tackle the ball joint connecting it to the steering arm.

Give the exposed thread below the nut a quick spray with lube. If you're really lucky the nut will undo all the way with no drama, more likely it'll go a few turns then start spinning the ball joint inside it's housing. Don't attempt any of the pry bar techniques on you tube, don't try jacking onto anything, the easy technique is a ratchet strap around the track rod end and lower wishbone. Doesn't have to be all that tight to stop the joint spinning and you can remove the locknut.

Now put the locknut back on a few turns and tap with rubber mallet to release the joint. Remove the track rod end counting the exact number of turns.

'''Refitting'''

Screw the track rod end back onto the tie rod with the same number of turns as it took to come off.

Reconnect the track rod end down through the steering arm, you might need the ratchet strap again to stop the joint spinning.

Nip up the tie rod lock nuts against the the track rod end.

===See also===

[http://www.midlandslotus.co.uk/content/index.php/index.html/_/faqwiki/suspension/suspension-refresh-r464 External MLOC Suspension refresh]

[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S1]]
[[Category:S2]]

Track rod end

2016-05-08T21:23:03Z

Digimap2000:

===Track rod end===

[[Image:Arb4.jpg|thumb|left]]
{{clr}}

'''Removal'''

Loosen the locknuts on the steering arm whilst the track rod end is still attached at the wheel assembly end, this will stop it flopping around. A couple of spanners are all that's needed to back off the two locknuts one at a time. With the track rod end lock nuts released tackle the ball joint connecting it to the wheel assembly.

Give the exposed thread below the nut a quick spray with lube. If you're really lucky the nut will undo all the way with no drama, more likely it'll go a few turns then start spinning the ball joint inside it's housing. Don't attempt any of the pry bar techniques on you tube, don't try jacking onto anything, the easy technique is a ratchet strap around the track rod end and lower wishbone. Doesn't have to be all that tight to stop the joint spinning and you can remove the locknut.

Now put the locknut back on a few turns and tap with rubber mallet to release the joint. Remove the track rod counting the exact number of turns.

'''Refitting'''

Screw the track rod end back on with the same number of turns as it took to come off.

Reconnect the track rod end to the wheel assembly, you might need the ratchet strap again to stop the joint spinning.

Nip up the lock nuts against the end of the track rod.

===See also===

[http://www.midlandslotus.co.uk/content/index.php/index.html/_/faqwiki/suspension/suspension-refresh-r464 External MLOC Suspension refresh]

[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S1]]
[[Category:S2]]

Track rod end

2016-05-08T21:22:30Z

Digimap2000: Added instructions for removal and refitting.

===Track rod end===

[[Image:Arb4.jpg|thumb|left]]
{{clr}}

'''Removal'''
Loosen the locknuts on the steering arm whilst the track rod end is still attached at the wheel assembly end, this will stop it flopping around. A couple of spanners are all that's needed to back off the two locknuts one at a time. With the track rod end lock nuts released tackle the ball joint connecting it to the wheel assembly.

Give the exposed thread below the nut a quick spray with lube. If you're really lucky the nut will undo all the way with no drama, more likely it'll go a few turns then start spinning the ball joint inside it's housing. Don't attempt any of the pry bar techniques on you tube, don't try jacking onto anything, the easy technique is a ratchet strap around the track rod end and lower wishbone. Doesn't have to be all that tight to stop the joint spinning and you can remove the locknut.

Now put the locknut back on a few turns and tap with rubber mallet to release the joint. Remove the track rod counting the exact number of turns.

'''Refitting'''
Screw the track rod end back on with the same number of turns as it took to come off.
Reconnect the track rod end to the wheel assembly, you might need the ratchet strap again to stop the joint spinning.
Nip up the lock nuts against the end of the track rod.

===See also===

[http://www.midlandslotus.co.uk/content/index.php/index.html/_/faqwiki/suspension/suspension-refresh-r464 External MLOC Suspension refresh]

[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S1]]
[[Category:S2]]