TechWiki - User contributions [en-gb]

Fibreglass repair

2007-04-10T11:40:07Z

Dr Al: /* A walk through of a repair */

===Fiberglass repair===

Elise and Exige clams are made of glass fiber and polyester resin. Lotus have used two methods, in the S1 and s2 Exige the glass fiber is hand laid and in the S2 elise they have employed a system that injects polyester resin and glass fiber into a mould and the sections are then assembled at Hethel. The hand layed clams are slightly thicker, heavier but stronger than the clams the use the injected method.

===Gelcoat===

XXX unsure on repair implication

===Saftey===

When working with glass fiber its is best to use a dust mask and eye protection, whilst preparing the area for repair and working with the material. (due to the possible long term health effects of fiber inhalation)

The glass fibers and resins come together to form a strong, light compersite material.

'''Glass fiber'''

comes in several forms which are used for different purposes:

Tissue

Clopped strand matting

Woven

'''Resins'''

several resin bases are used

polyesters

epoxy
higher toughness than polyester

additional reinforcement

aluminum mesh

===Repair thickness===

'''Masking off the undamaged area'''

mask off using plastic bin bags secured to the body with masking tape. Mask off an area much larger than you think, resin is very messy and if it gets on the paint it will cause damage.

===Surface preperation===

The first step it to try and maximise the access to the site you are attempting to repair. Some repairs can only be performed with the clam removed.

[[How to remove the front clamshell]]

[[How to remove the rear clamshell]]

The area that has been damaged may extend further than the surface damage would suggest. The area around the damage needs to be removed. The fastest way is to use an electric grinding tool such as a dremmel so carefully file back the broken fiber glass. A shallow wedged edge should be created around the damage to give a larger surface for the repair to bond to.

chemicals
acetone

Working in confined areas such inside the boot can be alkward. One method to make life easier is to prepare the fiberglass and resin on top of a sandwich bag on a flat surface and then use it like a glove to transfer apply the fiberglass and then to smooth it into position.

===Finishing===

===A walk through of a repair===

The First step is being able to get behind the damaged area (if possible).

Then Drill out the end of each crack to stop it propagating
(It is still debated if this needs to be done or not)
'''Please Add Info'''

[[image:drillholes.jpg|thumb|left|Click me to view larger]]
{{clr}}

Then use a dremmel to remove all the badly damaged and 'powdered' fibreglass, and to 'V' out the track of each crack from the outside.

[[image:dremmelcracks.jpg|thumb|left|Click me to view larger]]
{{clr}}

Then with the dremmel again (or with a grinder) rub down a few inches around the inside of the cracks.

[[image:sanddown.jpg|thumb|left|Click me to view larger]]
{{clr}}

Now use yourpolyester resin and chopped strand mat and repair on the inside. Build up a few layers of mat and resin. This is the strength of the repair.

For any areas of significant fibreglass loss (such as the front "chin" spoilers and some jacking damage to my nearside sill) it may be worth strengthening the repair with strips of aluminium +/- aluminium mesh, worked in between layers of matting. These strips of aluminium (about 1" wide) should be bent to shape, and then screwed into place (clamping wet matting before it sets) using countersunk screws in from the outside of the clam. The screw heads can then be completely covered with resin from the outside, leaving them invisible once filled and painted.

[[image:resin.jpg|thumb|left|This was about 3 layers in total]]
{{clr}}

Then with the inside repair done start on the outside.
Building up layers of CSM matting wherever possible, and fibreglass tissue everywhere else, get a couple of layers into all the 'V' shaped channels you dremmeled earlier.

Now come’s a lot of sanding to bring it all down so there were no bits of resin left proud.

[[image:sanddown2.jpg|thumb|left|Click me to view larger]]
{{clr}}

Leave the final filling with putty and sanding to the body shop

===See Also===

http://forums.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=114868

http://forums.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=102885

http://forums.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=32837

http://forums.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=89620

Fibreglass repair

2007-04-10T11:35:55Z

Dr Al: /* A walk through of a repair */

===Fiberglass repair===

Elise and Exige clams are made of glass fiber and polyester resin. Lotus have used two methods, in the S1 and s2 Exige the glass fiber is hand laid and in the S2 elise they have employed a system that injects polyester resin and glass fiber into a mould and the sections are then assembled at Hethel. The hand layed clams are slightly thicker, heavier but stronger than the clams the use the injected method.

===Gelcoat===

XXX unsure on repair implication

===Saftey===

When working with glass fiber its is best to use a dust mask and eye protection, whilst preparing the area for repair and working with the material. (due to the possible long term health effects of fiber inhalation)

The glass fibers and resins come together to form a strong, light compersite material.

'''Glass fiber'''

comes in several forms which are used for different purposes:

Tissue

Clopped strand matting

Woven

'''Resins'''

several resin bases are used

polyesters

epoxy
higher toughness than polyester

additional reinforcement

aluminum mesh

===Repair thickness===

'''Masking off the undamaged area'''

mask off using plastic bin bags secured to the body with masking tape. Mask off an area much larger than you think, resin is very messy and if it gets on the paint it will cause damage.

===Surface preperation===

The first step it to try and maximise the access to the site you are attempting to repair. Some repairs can only be performed with the clam removed.

[[How to remove the front clamshell]]

[[How to remove the rear clamshell]]

The area that has been damaged may extend further than the surface damage would suggest. The area around the damage needs to be removed. The fastest way is to use an electric grinding tool such as a dremmel so carefully file back the broken fiber glass. A shallow wedged edge should be created around the damage to give a larger surface for the repair to bond to.

chemicals
acetone

Working in confined areas such inside the boot can be alkward. One method to make life easier is to prepare the fiberglass and resin on top of a sandwich bag on a flat surface and then use it like a glove to transfer apply the fiberglass and then to smooth it into position.

===Finishing===

===A walk through of a repair===

The First step is being able to get behind the damaged area (if possible).

Then Drill out the end of each crack to stop it propagating
(It is still debated if this needs to be done or not)
'''Please Add Info'''

[[image:drillholes.jpg|thumb|left|Click me to view larger]]
{{clr}}

Then use a dremmel to remove all the badly damaged and 'powdered' fibreglass, and to 'V' out the track of each crack from the outside.

[[image:dremmelcracks.jpg|thumb|left|Click me to view larger]]
{{clr}}

Then with the dremmel again (or with a grinder) rub down a few inches around the inside of the cracks.

[[image:sanddown.jpg|thumb|left|Click me to view larger]]
{{clr}}

Now use yourpolyester resin and chopped strand mat and repair on the inside. Build up a few layers of mat and resin. This is the strength of the repair

[[image:resin.jpg|thumb|left|This was about 3 layers in total]]
{{clr}}

Then with the inside repair done start on the outside.
Building up layers of CSM matting wherever possible, and fibreglass tissue everywhere else, get a couple of layers into all the 'V' shaped channels you dremmeled earlier.

Now come’s a lot of sanding to bring it all down so there were no bits of resin left proud.

[[image:sanddown2.jpg|thumb|left|Click me to view larger]]
{{clr}}

Leave the final filling with putty and sanding to the body shop

===See Also===

http://forums.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=114868

http://forums.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=102885

http://forums.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=32837

http://forums.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=89620

Fibreglass repair

2007-04-10T11:33:14Z

Dr Al: /* Fiberglass repair */

===Fiberglass repair===

Elise and Exige clams are made of glass fiber and polyester resin. Lotus have used two methods, in the S1 and s2 Exige the glass fiber is hand laid and in the S2 elise they have employed a system that injects polyester resin and glass fiber into a mould and the sections are then assembled at Hethel. The hand layed clams are slightly thicker, heavier but stronger than the clams the use the injected method.

===Gelcoat===

XXX unsure on repair implication

===Saftey===

When working with glass fiber its is best to use a dust mask and eye protection, whilst preparing the area for repair and working with the material. (due to the possible long term health effects of fiber inhalation)

The glass fibers and resins come together to form a strong, light compersite material.

'''Glass fiber'''

comes in several forms which are used for different purposes:

Tissue

Clopped strand matting

Woven

'''Resins'''

several resin bases are used

polyesters

epoxy
higher toughness than polyester

additional reinforcement

aluminum mesh

===Repair thickness===

'''Masking off the undamaged area'''

mask off using plastic bin bags secured to the body with masking tape. Mask off an area much larger than you think, resin is very messy and if it gets on the paint it will cause damage.

===Surface preperation===

The first step it to try and maximise the access to the site you are attempting to repair. Some repairs can only be performed with the clam removed.

[[How to remove the front clamshell]]

[[How to remove the rear clamshell]]

The area that has been damaged may extend further than the surface damage would suggest. The area around the damage needs to be removed. The fastest way is to use an electric grinding tool such as a dremmel so carefully file back the broken fiber glass. A shallow wedged edge should be created around the damage to give a larger surface for the repair to bond to.

chemicals
acetone

Working in confined areas such inside the boot can be alkward. One method to make life easier is to prepare the fiberglass and resin on top of a sandwich bag on a flat surface and then use it like a glove to transfer apply the fiberglass and then to smooth it into position.

===Finishing===

===A walk through of a repair===

The First step is being able to get behind the damaged area (if possible).

Then Drill out the end of each crack to stop it propagating
(It is still debated if this needs to be done or not)
'''Please Add Info'''

[[image:drillholes.jpg|thumb|left|Click me to view larger]]
{{clr}}

Then use a dremmel to remove all the badly damaged and 'powdered' fibreglass, and to 'V' out the track of each crack from the outside.

[[image:dremmelcracks.jpg|thumb|left|Click me to view larger]]
{{clr}}

Then with the dremmel again rub down a few inches around the inside of the cracks.

[[image:sanddown.jpg|thumb|left|Click me to view larger]]
{{clr}}

Now use yourpolyester resin and chopped strand mat and repair on the inside.

[[image:resin.jpg|thumb|left|This was about 3 layers in total]]
{{clr}}

Then with the inside repair done start on the outside.
Building up layers of CSM matting wherever possible, and fibreglass tissue everywhere else, get a couple of layers into all the 'V' shaped channels you dremmeled earlier.

Now come’s a lot of sanding to bring it all down so there were no bits of resin left proud.

[[image:sanddown2.jpg|thumb|left|Click me to view larger]]
{{clr}}

Leave the final filling with putty and sanding to the body shop

===See Also===

http://forums.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=114868

http://forums.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=102885

http://forums.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=32837

http://forums.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=89620

Jacking accidents

2007-03-05T15:03:02Z

Dr Al:

Using the incorrect jack or working on the car whilst incorrectly supported with [[axle stands]] can be costly.

<gallery>
Image:S2 fallen off scissor jack.jpg|S2 fallen off trolley jack (scissor jack only in place as emergency measure to rescue the situation).
Image:S1 fallen off trolley jack.jpg|S1 fallen off trolley jack
</gallery>

When using a trolley jack on a paved surface (like in the first picture) be carefull as you jack the car up.
As the car rises, the jack needs to roll forward to move with the car as it lifts.
- In the case above the jack caught in the gap between to paving bricks causing the car to slide off the edge of the jack as it was raised. - VERY easily done if you don't think about it.

[[Category:DIY]]

Jacking accidents

2007-02-18T12:18:37Z

Dr Al:

Wiper Variable intermittent

2006-11-22T22:41:53Z

Dr Al:

Ever wanted variable intermittent on your wipers??
Ever get annoyed that every time you wash the screen, the wipers smear it 4 times??

you can fix both of these things by changing the wash/wipe relay

the relay is situated up underneath the dashboard in the passenger footwell. It takes approximately 30 seconds to change it, no tools required, although some gymnastic ability is helpfull!

The required relay is from the Mk3 golf

There are various part numbers doing the rounds, but i didn't manage to get hold of a brand new relay, although some people have. - others have accidentally bought the wrong relay. - new, it'd cost you £30.

Beru: 0 900 301 082,
Kostal: 377 955 531,
Bosch: 0 986 335 058,
VW: 3B0955531,
www.gsfcarparts.com pt no 93610,
OPEL 12 38 550,
SAAB 85 53 463,
VW 191 955 531,
VW 321 955 531 A,
LIEBHERR 1 001 443 3,
JOHN DEERE AZ 49 989,
HAKO 90-35730-2,
KRAMER 100 010 51 46,
HYMER 0416073,
Hella 5WG 003 620-021 .

use these part numbers at your own risk, some certainly arn't quite the correct relays, some are.

I got mine from a breakers yard for a total of £5.

[[Image:Golfmk3.jpg|thumb|100px|left|Mk3 Golf]]Most Breakers yards will have a number of Mk3 golfs, and the correct relay can also be found in lots of different VWs (usually the higher spec cars) dating from the mid '90s

In the golf, the relays (and fuses) are behind a plastic panel under the steering wheel, above the drivers footwell. You can just pull the relay out.

There are two common relays you'll find in the cars.

the WRONG one has the number "19" printed on the top of it in big white numbers. This is really no different from the original lotus realy, and no upgrade at all.

The CORRECT realy has the number "99" printed on it. This is the one you need to find.

The "99" relay is usually found in higher spec cars, and the "19" relay in lower spec cars.

[[Image:relay.jpg|alt text]]This is a pic of the new relay in place in the elise, looking up from the footwell.

To fit it, you need to get your head down into the footwell looking up at the back of the dash-front. Up there (as shown above) are a couple of realys.
Pull out the one which looks the right shape, and check that the pin pattern is the same.
Push in the "99" realy and the job's done.

Now when you wash the screen, it'll wipe just twice, and you'll have variable intermittent.

To use the Variable intermittent, flick the wiper stalk to wipe the screen once. Then wait for period of time "x" and put the stalk to intermittent setting. The intermittent delay between wipes will now be "x".
Easy.

S2 Wheel Options

2006-11-22T22:37:18Z

Dr Al:

Alloy wheel weight is very important to the [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Unsprung_weight unsprung weight] of the car.

Stuck on what PCD or Centrebore means, [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wheel_sizing read here].

If you want diferent wheels then listed below, you don't need pcd converting wheel-spacers like[http://www.eliseparts.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=165&products_id=219 Hubcentric Wheel Adaptors.] as 4x100pcd is already relatively common.

What you need is simple wheel spacers in 4x100pcd, centre bore 56.6 to make the offset a little more common. These spacers would fit Vauxhall Corsa, Astra F&G, Tigra, Vectra + OPEL Ascona and are therefore pretty easy to come by and quite cheap. [http://www.performancefx.net/wsvauxhall.htm example of cheap spacers]

To fit S2 exige wheels or 111R wheels onto a K-engined elise the fronts are the same, but the rears require 20mm each side spacers to correct the offset.

=K-series=

==Lotus/OEM==

===Rimstock 6-spoke===
{{ Infobox_Wheels |
| f_size = 16x5.5
| r_size = 17x7.5
| f_offset = ET31.5
| r_offset = ET18
| f_pcd = 4x100
| r_pcd = 4x100
| f_cbore = 56.6
| r_cbore = 56.6
| f_weight = 8.00kg
| r_weight = 10.52kg
| f_tyresize = 175/55R16
| r_tyresize = 225/45R17
| price = complete set inc VAT ???
| web =
| image = [[Image:elise2000silver.jpg|thumb|S2 OEM Wheel]]
| image2 =
| notes = OEM S2 wheels, also available in black.
Lotus Part Numbers:
Front in black: D117G0024H
Rear in black :D117G0025H
}}

===Rimstock 8-spoke===
{{ Infobox_Wheels |
| f_size = 16x5.5
| r_size = 17x7.5
| f_offset = ET31.5
| r_offset = ET18
| f_pcd = 4x100
| r_pcd = 4x100
| f_cbore = 56.6
| r_cbore = 56.6
| f_weight = 6.88kg
| r_weight = 9.50kg
| f_tyresize = 175/55R16
| r_tyresize = 225/45R17
| price = complete set inc VAT £920
| web =
| image = [[Image:Elise-Wheel-grey.jpg|thumb|S2 111S OEM Wheel]]
| image2 =
| notes = OEM S2 111S wheels, also available in black
}}

===OZ Racing===
{{ Infobox_Wheels |
| f_size = 16x6.5
| r_size = 17x7.5
| f_offset = ET31
| r_offset = ET18
| f_pcd = 4x100
| r_pcd = 4x100
| f_cbore = 56.6
| r_cbore = 56.6
| f_weight = 6.4
| r_weight = 9.6
| f_tyresize = 195/50R16
| r_tyresize = 225/45R17
| price = complete set inc VAT £999
| web =
| image = [[Image:Bls2g6006f.jpg|thumb|S2 135R OEM Wheel, Silver]]
| image2 = [[Image:Bls2g6003f.jpg|thumb|S2 135R OEM Wheel, Black]]
| notes = OEM S2 135R wheels, also available in black. Together with the A048 tyres, the OZ racing wheels give a wider than standard front wheel to improve the already legendary handling Elise (in black or silver).

There are many [[Tyres_for_OZ_Racing_Rims|tyre options for the OZ racing rim]]
}}

==Speedline==
===Turini===
{{ Infobox_Wheels |
| f_size = 16x7
| r_size = 17x8
| f_offset = ET31
| r_offset = ET18
| f_pcd = 4x100
| r_pcd = 4x100
| f_cbore = 56.6
| r_cbore = 56.6
| f_weight = 8.5
| r_weight = 9
| f_tyresize = 195/50R16
| r_tyresize = 225/45R17
| price = complete set inc VAT £799 (est)
| web =
| image = [[Image:Tunini.JPG|thumb]]
| image2 =
| notes = May be manufactured in 2007
}}

==Rimstock==
===Team Dynamics Pro Race 1.2S===
{{ Infobox_Wheels |
| f_size = 16x7
| r_size = 17x7.5
| f_offset = ET30
| r_offset = ET15
| f_pcd = 4x100
| r_pcd = 4x100
| f_cbore = 56.6
| r_cbore = 56.6
| f_weight =
| r_weight =
| f_tyresize = 195/50R16
| r_tyresize = 225/45R17
| price = complete set inc VAT £799 (est)
| web = http://www.rimstock.co.uk/rimstockuk/wheelrange.php
| image = [[Image:prorace.JPG|thumb]]
| image2 =
| notes = Also available in black and white.
}}

==Komo-Tec==
===KT-Track===
{{ Infobox_Wheels |
| f_size = 16x7
| r_size = 17x8
| f_offset = ET30
| r_offset = ET25
| f_pcd = 4x100
| r_pcd = 4x100
| f_cbore = 56.6
| r_cbore = 56.6
| f_weight = 6.83kg
| r_weight = 9.20kg
| f_tyresize = 195/50R16
| r_tyresize = 225/45R17
| price = complete set inc VAT £1295
| web = http://www.komo-tec.com/product_info.php/products_id/414
| image = [[Image:kttrack.jpg|thumb]]
| image2 =
| notes = Rebadge of the Japanese Works Emotion CR wheels at double the price www.hubspace.net
}}

==Compomotive==
===MO===
{{ Infobox_Wheels |
| f_size = 16x7
| r_size = 17x8
| f_offset = ET35
| r_offset = ET15
| f_pcd = 4x100
| r_pcd = 4x100
| f_cbore = 56.6
| r_cbore = 56.6
| f_weight =
| r_weight =
| f_tyresize = 195/50R16
| r_tyresize = 225/45R17
| price = complete set inv VAT £780
| web = http://www.sandtler.de/katalogangebote/felgen/felgen/compomotive/felgen_htm/felge_mo.htm
| image = [[Image:Front_comp_small.jpg|thumb]]
| image2 = [[Image:Rear_comp_small.jpg|thumb]]
| notes = Front Wheel MO1671 16x7 ET35 (needs 5mm spacer)
}}

=Toyota=
==Lotus/OEM==
===Rimstock===
{{ Infobox_Wheels |
| f_size = 16x5.5
| r_size = 17x7.5
| f_offset = ET31
| r_offset = ET38
| f_pcd = 4x100
| r_pcd = 4x100
| f_cbore = 56.6
| r_cbore = 56.6
| f_weight = 6.88
| r_weight = 9.50
| f_tyresize = 175/55R16
| r_tyresize = 225/45R17
| price = Retail inc VAT £ 920
| web =
| image = [[Image:111rwheel.jpg|thumb|OEM 111R wheel]]
| image2 =
| notes =
}}

===Forged Alloy Wheel===
{{ Infobox_Wheels |
| f_size =
| r_size =
| f_offset =ET31
| r_offset =ET38
| f_pcd =4x100
| r_pcd =4x100
| f_cbore =56.6
| r_cbore =56.6
| f_weight =EST 5.5kg
| r_weight =7kg
| f_tyresize = 195/50/16
| r_tyresize = 225/45R17
| price = Retail inc VAT £1,682.60
| web = http://www.hangar111.com/ckshop.php?item=723&ret=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.hangar111.com%2Fckshop.php%3Fpage%3D1%26category%3D73
| image = [[Image:111rforge.jpg|thumb]]
| image2 =
| notes = Silver Anodised or Silver Painted
Lotus Part numbers:
Painted Front:A117G0124H
Painted Rear:A120G0019H
Anodised Front:A121G0013H
Anodised Rear:A121G0015H
}}

===Exige Y-type spider===
{{ Infobox_Wheels |
| f_size = 16x6.5
| r_size = 17x7.5
| f_offset = ET31
| r_offset = ET38
| f_pcd = 4x100
| r_pcd = 4x100
| f_cbore = 56.6
| r_cbore = 56.6
| f_weight = 8.8
| r_weight = 9.8
| f_tyresize = 195/50R16
| r_tyresize = 225/45R17
| price = Retail inc VAT £ 950
| web =
| image = [[Image:exigewheels.jpeg|thumb]]
| image2 =
| notes = When fitting to K-series car use 20 to 25mm spacer, also available in silver
}}

===Volk TE37===
{{ Infobox_Wheels |
| f_size =
| r_size =
| f_offset =
| r_offset =
| f_pcd =
| r_pcd =
| f_cbore =
| r_cbore =
| f_weight =
| r_weight =
| f_tyresize =
| r_tyresize =
| price =
| web =
| image = [[Image:VolkTE37.jpg|thumb]]
| image2 =
| notes = available in bronze silver and white
}}

===240R 5-spoke===
{{ Infobox_Wheels |
| f_size = 16x7
| r_size = 17x8
| f_offset = 31
| r_offset = 38
| f_pcd = 4x100
| r_pcd = 4x100
| f_cbore = 56.6
| r_cbore = 56.6
| f_weight = 6.1
| r_weight = 8.1
| f_tyresize = 190/580 16
| r_tyresize = 230/625 17
| price = US$2900
| web =
| image = [[Image:240r.jpg|thumb]]
| image2 =
| notes = OEM 240R wheels, also available in silver
}}

=Other sources of information=

[http://www.hubert.racegame.org/wheels.html Hubspace.net]

Windscreen washer mod

2006-11-22T22:28:57Z

Dr Al:

{{Infobox Timetools|time=10 mins|tools=Zip ties, electical tape, adjustable spanner}}
The "peugeot windscreen washer mod" is great for anyone who drives their car on bad weather days but likes to remain able to see out of the front.

The mod is totally easy, but it took me best part of an hour to get the necessary detail out of the forum search. I'll re-post here:

# Nip to you friendly neighbourhood peugeot parts desk, and ask for Peugeot part number 643861 (Bin A6C5) - a "Spray Ramp". It costs about £7. Some people have used a similar TVR part, but this costs £12 and your nearest TVR dealer is probably further away than your nearest peugeot dealer.
# Get hold of some small black cable ties and an adjustable spanner. Some black electrical tape is also handy.
# Remove the washer bottle from the front service compartment. Follow the hose with your fingers, and remove it from the plastic T section. Also remove the plastic T section.
# On the outside of the service compartment, remove the sleeve from around one of your existing window washer nozzles. Then use the spanner to remove the washer nozzle. I found that I didn't need to get a spanner to the nut on the underside, holding it with my fingers was sufficient. Removing the existing washer jet allows the mod to be completed without drilling a hole in your car, making the mod totally reversible.
# post the black tube from the peugeot part through the nozzle hole, and connect it to the hose from the washer bottle. At this point, I tested the spray ramp to be sure I knew how it worked and how best to mount it. There is a hole on the end of the ramp which is easy to direct too wide - fun when a cyclist passes you, but not fun when you have the roof off!
# cable-tie & tape the spray ramp to your wiper arm/blade, making sure the holes point forward. Test again, then return the washer bottle to the service compartment and shut the lid.
# Job done. Takes about 10 mins.

For even more spraying fun, you could even use 2 spray ramps and resurrect the T piece, but I found this was not necessary.

<gallery>
Image:Windscreen washer mod 1.jpg|
Image:Windscreen washer mod 2.jpg|
Image:Windscreen washer mod 3.jpg|
Image:Windscreen washer mod 4.jpg|
Image:Windscreen washer mod 5.jpg|
Image:Windscreen washer mod 6.jpg|
Image:Windscreen washer mod 7.jpg|
Image:Windscreen washer mod 8.jpg|
</gallery>

[[Image:washbar.jpg|thumb|100px|right|Citroen Wash Bar]] You can also use the washbar from a citroen BX
"Citroen part no. N93780 bx washer jet spray bar"
And on the S2, the hose to supply the new bar can fit through without any cutting or drilling of holes. - there's a gap large enough under the clam just behind the base of the wiper.

== External links ==
http://www.freeyabb.com/phpbb/viewtopic.php?t=851&mforum=scottisheliseso

[[Category:DIY]]

Wiper Variable intermittent

2006-11-22T22:27:13Z

Dr Al:

Ever wanted variable intermittent on your wipers??
Ever get annoyed that every time you wash the screen, the wipers smear it 4 times??

you can fix both of these things by changing the wash/wipe relay

the relay is situated up underneath the dashboard in the passenger footwell. It takes approximately 30 seconds to change it, no tools required, although some gymnastic ability is helpfull!

The required relay is from the Mk3 golf

There are various part numbers doing the rounds, but i didn't manage to get hold of a brand new relay, although some people have. - others have accidentally bought the wrong relay. - new, it'd cost you £30.

Beru: 0 900 301 082,
Kostal: 377 955 531,
Bosch: 0 986 335 058,
VW: 3B0955531,
www.gsfcarparts.com pt no 93610.

use these part numbers at your own risk, some certainly arn't quite the correct relays, some are.

I got mine from a breakers yard for a total of £5.

[[Image:Golfmk3.jpg|thumb|100px|left|Mk3 Golf]]Most Breakers yards will have a number of Mk3 golfs, and the correct relay can also be found in lots of different VWs (usually the higher spec cars) dating from the mid '90s

In the golf, the relays (and fuses) are behind a plastic panel under the steering wheel, above the drivers footwell. You can just pull the relay out.

There are two common relays you'll find in the cars.

the WRONG one has the number "19" printed on the top of it in big white numbers. This is really no different from the original lotus realy, and no upgrade at all.

The CORRECT realy has the number "99" printed on it. This is the one you need to find.

The "99" relay is usually found in higher spec cars, and the "19" relay in lower spec cars.

[[Image:relay.jpg|alt text]]This is a pic of the new relay in place in the elise, looking up from the footwell.

To fit it, you need to get your head down into the footwell looking up at the back of the dash-front. Up there (as shown above) are a couple of realys.
Pull out the one which looks the right shape, and check that the pin pattern is the same.
Push in the "99" realy and the job's done.

Now when you wash the screen, it'll wipe just twice, and you'll have variable intermittent.

To use the Variable intermittent, flick the wiper stalk to wipe the screen once. Then wait for period of time "x" and put the stalk to intermittent setting. The intermittent delay between wipes will now be "x".
Easy.

Wiper Variable intermittent

2006-11-22T22:24:20Z

Dr Al:

Ever wanted variable intermittent on your wipers??
Ever get annoyed that every time you wash the screen, the wipers smear it 4 times??

you can fix both of these things by changing the wash/wipe relay

the relay is situated up underneath the dashboard in the passenger footwell. It takes approximately 30 seconds to change it, no tools required, although some gymnastic ability is helpfull!

The required relay is from the Mk3 golf

There are various part numbers doing the rounds, but i didn't manage to get hold of a brand new relay, although some people have. - others have accidentally bought the wrong relay. - new, it'd cost you £30.

Beru: 0 900 301 082,
Kostal: 377 955 531,
Bosch: 0 986 335 058,
VW: 3B0955531,
www.gsfcarparts.com pt no 93610.

use these part numbers at your own risk, some certainly arn't quite the correct relays, some are.

I got mine from a breakers yard for a total of £5.

[[Image:Golfmk3.jpg|thumb|100px|left|Mk3 Golf]]Most Breakers yards will have a number of Mk3 golfs, and the correct relay can also be found in lots of different VWs (usually the higher spec cars) dating from the mid '90s

In the golf, the relays (and fuses) are behind a plastic panel under the steering wheel, above the drivers footwell. You can just pull the relay out.

There are two common relays you'll find in the cars.
the WRONG one has the number "19" printed on the top of it in big white numbers. This is really no different from the original lotus realy, and no upgrade at all.
The CORRECT realy has the number "99" printed on it. This is the one you need to find.

The "99" relay is usually found in higher spec cars, and the "19" relay in lower spec cars.

[[Image:relay.jpg|alt text]]This is a pic of the new relay in place in the elise, looking up from the footwell.

To fit it, you need to get your head down into the footwell looking up at the back of the dash-front. Up there (as shown above) are a couple of realys.
Pull out the one which looks the right shape, and check that the pin pattern is the same.
Push in the "99" realy and the job's done.

Now when you wash the screen, it'll wipe just twice, and you'll have variable intermittent.

To use the Variable intermittent, flick the wiper stalk to wipe the screen once. Then wait for period of time "x" and put the stalk to intermittent setting. The intermittent delay between wipes will now be "x".
Easy.

Wiper Variable intermittent

2006-11-22T22:23:56Z

Dr Al:

Ever wanted variable intermittent on your wipers??
Ever get annoyed that every time you wash the screen, the wipers smear it 4 times??

you can fix both of these things by changing the wash/wipe relay

the relay is situated up underneath the dashboard in the passenger footwell. It takes approximately 30 seconds to change it, no tools required, although some gymnastic ability is helpfull!

The required relay is from the Mk3 golf

There are various part numbers doing the rounds, but i didn't manage to get hold of a brand new relay, although some people have. - others have accidentally bought the wrong relay. - new, it'd cost you £30.

Beru: 0 900 301 082,
Kostal: 377 955 531,
Bosch: 0 986 335 058,
VW: 3B0955531,
www.gsfcarparts.com pt no 93610.

use these part numbers at your own risk, some certainly arn't quite the correct relays, some are.

I got mine from a breakers yard for a total of £5.

[[Image:Golfmk3.jpg|thumb|100px|left|Mk3 Golf]]Most Breakers yards will have a number of Mk3 golfs, and the correct relay can also be found in lots of different VWs (usually the higher end of the range cars) dating from the mid '90s

In the golf, the relays (and fuses) are behind a plastic panel under the steering wheel, above the drivers footwell. You can just pull the relay out.

There are two common relays you'll find in the cars.
the WRONG one has the number "19" printed on the top of it in big white numbers. This is really no different from the original lotus realy, and no upgrade at all.
The CORRECT realy has the number "99" printed on it. This is the one you need to find.

The "99" relay is usually found in higher spec cars, and the "19" relay in lower spec cars.

[[Image:relay.jpg|alt text]]This is a pic of the new relay in place in the elise, looking up from the footwell.

To fit it, you need to get your head down into the footwell looking up at the back of the dash-front. Up there (as shown above) are a couple of realys.
Pull out the one which looks the right shape, and check that the pin pattern is the same.
Push in the "99" realy and the job's done.

Now when you wash the screen, it'll wipe just twice, and you'll have variable intermittent.

To use the Variable intermittent, flick the wiper stalk to wipe the screen once. Then wait for period of time "x" and put the stalk to intermittent setting. The intermittent delay between wipes will now be "x".
Easy.

Wiper Variable intermittent

2006-11-22T22:23:23Z

Dr Al:

Ever wanted variable intermittent on your wipers??
Ever get annoyed that every time you wash the screen, the wipers smear it 4 times??

you can fix both of these things by changing the wash/wipe relay

the relay is situated up underneath the dashboard in the passenger footwell. It takes approximately 30 seconds to change it, no tools required, although some gymnastic ability is helpfull!

The required relay is from the Mk3 golf

There are various part numbers doing the rounds, but i didn't manage to get hold of a brand new relay, although some people have. - others have accidentally bought the wrong relay. - new, it'd cost you £30.

Beru: 0 900 301 082
Kostal: 377 955 531
Bosch: 0 986 335 058
VW: 3B0955531
www.gsfcarparts.com pt no 93610

use these part numbers at your own risk, some certainly arn't quite the correct relays, some are.

I got mine from a breakers yard for a total of £5.

[[Image:Golfmk3.jpg|thumb|100px|left|Mk3 Golf]]Most Breakers yards will have a number of Mk3 golfs, and the correct relay can also be found in lots of different VWs (usually the higher end of the range cars) dating from the mid '90s

In the golf, the relays (and fuses) are behind a plastic panel under the steering wheel, above the drivers footwell. You can just pull the relay out.

There are two common relays you'll find in the cars.
the WRONG one has the number "19" printed on the top of it in big white numbers. This is really no different from the original lotus realy, and no upgrade at all.
The CORRECT realy has the number "99" printed on it. This is the one you need to find.

The "99" relay is usually found in higher spec cars, and the "19" relay in lower spec cars.

[[Image:relay.jpg|alt text]]This is a pic of the new relay in place in the elise, looking up from the footwell.

To fit it, you need to get your head down into the footwell looking up at the back of the dash-front. Up there (as shown above) are a couple of realys.
Pull out the one which looks the right shape, and check that the pin pattern is the same.
Push in the "99" realy and the job's done.

Now when you wash the screen, it'll wipe just twice, and you'll have variable intermittent.

To use the Variable intermittent, flick the wiper stalk to wipe the screen once. Then wait for period of time "x" and put the stalk to intermittent setting. The intermittent delay between wipes will now be "x".
Easy.

Wiper Variable intermittent

2006-11-22T22:22:59Z

Dr Al:

Ever wanted variable intermittent on your wipers??
Ever get annoyed that every time you wash the screen, the wipers smear it 4 times??

you can fix both of these things by changing the wash/wipe relay

the relay is situated up underneath the dashboard in the passenger footwell. It takes approximately 30 seconds to change it, no tools required, although some gymnastic ability is helpfull!

The required relay is from the Mk3 golf

There are various part numbers doing the rounds, but i didn't manage to get hold of a brand new relay, although some people have. - others have accidentally bought the wrong relay. - new, it'd cost you £30.
Beru: 0 900 301 082
Kostal: 377 955 531
Bosch: 0 986 335 058
VW: 3B0955531
www.gsfcarparts.com pt no 93610
use these part numbers at your own risk, some certainly arn't quite the correct relays, some are.

I got mine from a breakers yard for a total of £5.

[[Image:Golfmk3.jpg|thumb|100px|left|Mk3 Golf]]Most Breakers yards will have a number of Mk3 golfs, and the correct relay can also be found in lots of different VWs (usually the higher end of the range cars) dating from the mid '90s

In the golf, the relays (and fuses) are behind a plastic panel under the steering wheel, above the drivers footwell. You can just pull the relay out.

There are two common relays you'll find in the cars.
the WRONG one has the number "19" printed on the top of it in big white numbers. This is really no different from the original lotus realy, and no upgrade at all.
The CORRECT realy has the number "99" printed on it. This is the one you need to find.

The "99" relay is usually found in higher spec cars, and the "19" relay in lower spec cars.

[[Image:relay.jpg|alt text]]This is a pic of the new relay in place in the elise, looking up from the footwell.

To fit it, you need to get your head down into the footwell looking up at the back of the dash-front. Up there (as shown above) are a couple of realys.
Pull out the one which looks the right shape, and check that the pin pattern is the same.
Push in the "99" realy and the job's done.

Now when you wash the screen, it'll wipe just twice, and you'll have variable intermittent.

To use the Variable intermittent, flick the wiper stalk to wipe the screen once. Then wait for period of time "x" and put the stalk to intermittent setting. The intermittent delay between wipes will now be "x".
Easy.

Wiper Variable intermittent

2006-11-22T22:22:37Z

Dr Al:

Ever wanted variable intermittent on your wipers??
Ever get annoyed that every time you wash the screen, the wipers smear it 4 times??

you can fix both of these things by changing the wash/wipe relay

the relay is situated up underneath the dashboard in the passenger footwell. It takes approximately 30 seconds to change it, no tools required, although some gymnastic ability is helpfull!

The required relay is from the Mk3 golf

There are various part numbers doing the rounds, but i didn't manage to get hold of a brand new relay, although some people have. - others have accidentally bought the wrong relay. - new, it'd cost you £30.
''Beru: 0 900 301 082
Kostal: 377 955 531
Bosch: 0 986 335 058
VW: 3B0955531
www.gsfcarparts.com pt no 93610''
use these part numbers at your own risk, some certainly arn't quite the correct relays, some are.

I got mine from a breakers yard for a total of £5.

[[Image:Golfmk3.jpg|thumb|100px|left|Mk3 Golf]]Most Breakers yards will have a number of Mk3 golfs, and the correct relay can also be found in lots of different VWs (usually the higher end of the range cars) dating from the mid '90s

In the golf, the relays (and fuses) are behind a plastic panel under the steering wheel, above the drivers footwell. You can just pull the relay out.

There are two common relays you'll find in the cars.
the WRONG one has the number "19" printed on the top of it in big white numbers. This is really no different from the original lotus realy, and no upgrade at all.
The CORRECT realy has the number "99" printed on it. This is the one you need to find.

The "99" relay is usually found in higher spec cars, and the "19" relay in lower spec cars.

[[Image:relay.jpg|alt text]]This is a pic of the new relay in place in the elise, looking up from the footwell.

To fit it, you need to get your head down into the footwell looking up at the back of the dash-front. Up there (as shown above) are a couple of realys.
Pull out the one which looks the right shape, and check that the pin pattern is the same.
Push in the "99" realy and the job's done.

Now when you wash the screen, it'll wipe just twice, and you'll have variable intermittent.

To use the Variable intermittent, flick the wiper stalk to wipe the screen once. Then wait for period of time "x" and put the stalk to intermittent setting. The intermittent delay between wipes will now be "x".
Easy.

Wiper Variable intermittent

2006-11-22T22:17:17Z

Dr Al:

Ever wanted variable intermittent on your wipers??
Ever get annoyed that every time you wash the screen, the wipers smear it 4 times??

you can fix both of these things by changing the wash/wipe relay

the relay is situated up underneath the dashboard in the passenger footwell. It takes approximately 30 seconds to change it, no tools required, although some gymnastic ability is helpfull!

The required relay is from the Mk3 golf

There are various part numbers doing the rounds, but i didn't manage to get hold of a brand new relay, although some people have. - others have accidentally bought the wrong relay. - new, it'd cost you £30.

I got mine from a breakers yard for a total of £5.

[[Image:Golfmk3.jpg|thumb|100px|left|Mk3 Golf]]Most Breakers yards will have a number of Mk3 golfs, and the correct relay can also be found in lots of different VWs (usually the higher end of the range cars) dating from the mid '90s

In the golf, the relays (and fuses) are behind a plastic panel under the steering wheel, above the drivers footwell. You can just pull the relay out.

There are two common relays you'll find in the cars.
the WRONG one has the number "19" printed on the top of it in big white numbers. This is really no different from the original lotus realy, and no upgrade at all.
The CORRECT realy has the number "99" printed on it. This is the one you need to find.

The "99" relay is usually found in higher spec cars, and the "19" relay in lower spec cars.

[[Image:relay.jpg|alt text]]This is a pic of the relay in place in the elise, looking up from the footwell.

To fit it, you need to get your head down into the footwell looking up at the back of the dash-front. Up there (as shown above) are a couple of realys.
Pull out the one which looks the right shape, and check that the pin pattern is the same.
Push in the "99" realy and the job's done.

Now when you wash the screen, it'll wipe just twice, and you'll have variable intermittent.

To use the Variable intermittent, flick the wiper stalk to wipe the screen once. Then wait for period of time "x" and put the stalk to intermittent setting. The intermittent delay between wipes will now be "x".
Easy.

Wiper Variable intermittent

2006-11-22T22:14:27Z

Dr Al:

Ever wanted variable intermittent on your wipers??
Ever get annoyed that every time you wash the screen, the wipers smear it 4 times??

you can fix both of these things by changing the wash/wipe relay

the relay is situated up underneath the dashboard in the passenger footwell. It takes approximately 30 seconds to change it, no tools required, although some gymnastic ability is helpfull!

The required relay is from the Mk3 golf

There are various part numbers doing the rounds, but i didn't manage to get hold of a brand new relay, although some people have. - others have accidentally bought the wrong relay. - new, it'd cost you £30.

I got mine from a breakers yard for a total of £5.

[[Image:Golfmk3.jpg|thumb|100px|left|Mk3 Golf]]Most Breakers yards will have a number of Mk3 golfs, and the correct relay can also be found in lots of different VWs (usually the higher end of the range cars) dating from the mid '90s

In the golf, the relays (and fuses) are behind a plastic panel under the steering wheel, above the drivers footwell. You can just pull the relay out.

There are two common relays you'll find in the cars.
the WRONG one has the number "19" printed on the top of it in big white numbers. This is really no different from the original lotus realy, and no upgrade at all.
The CORRECT realy has the number "99" printed on it. This is the one you need to find.

The "99" relay is usually found in higher spec cars, and the "19" relay in lower spec cars.

[[Image:relay.jpg|alt text]]This is a pic of the relay in place in the elise, looking up from the footwell.

To fit it, you need to get your head down into the footwell looking up at the back of the dash-front. Up there (as shown above) are a couple of realys.
Pull out the one which looks the right shape, and check that the pin pattern is the same.
Push in the "99" realy and the job's done.

File:Relay.jpg

2006-11-22T22:12:20Z

Dr Al:

Wiper Variable intermittent

2006-11-22T22:11:20Z

Dr Al:

Wiper Variable intermittent

2006-11-22T22:07:11Z

Dr Al:

File:Golfmk3.jpg

2006-11-22T21:26:20Z

Dr Al:

Wiper Variable intermittent

2006-11-22T19:56:42Z

Dr Al:

Smaller Rear View Mirror

2006-11-22T19:47:09Z

Dr Al:

If you drive a lot of twisty country roads you may have found that the JUMBO sized OEM rear view mirror gets in the way, obscuring a lot of the view out of the windscreen.
Aftermarket options for a smaller mirror are few and expensive.

[[Image:daewoomatiz.jpg|thumb|100px|right|Daewoo Matiz]] A cheap alternative is to fit the mirror from a daewoo matiz (funny wee 3 cylinder shopping trolly, i'd guess most big scrappys would have a few crashed ones. - my local breaker in Glasgow had 5 today.

[[Image:matizmirror.jpg|alt text]]

The pic shows the new one in place above and the old one below in comparison. - it doesn't look like an enormous difference in size, but it makes a BIG difference when you're driving the car!

This mod works for S1s and early S2s. These rear view mirrors have their ball joints in the centre of the back of the mirror.
The mod does not work for 111Rs and S2 exiges. These have their ball joints on the top of the mirror.
I don't know if it works for later K-engined S2s.

Instructions :

1 - remove lotus mirror, by sliding the whole thing (including its stalk) upwards towards the top of the windscreen. - it just slides up leaving a small flat mounting plate in place on the windscreen.

2 - remove the mirror from the stalk by popping the "ball and socket" joint out of joint, - just angle it too far in any direction forcably.

3 - find a Daewoo Matiz in a scrappy. - don't bother trying to remove the stalk and all from the windscreen (i couldn't manage), just dislocate the ball and socket joint in the same way. Just take the mirror leaving the stalk behind.

4 - put the new mirror face down on something soft like your seat, put the ball on the end of your Lotus stalk into the socket of the Daewoo mirror and shove downwards HARD untill it clicks into place.

5 - slide the whole thing back onto the windscreen mounting.

Bingo!

Mine cost me all of £3!!! It works a treat. Much improved visibility, and you retain the lever on the bottom to "dip" the mirror.

[[Category:DIY]]

Windscreen washer mod

2006-11-22T19:46:27Z

Dr Al:

{{Infobox Timetools|time=10 mins|tools=Zip ties, electical tape, adjustable spanner}}
The "peugeot windscreen washer mod" is great for anyone who drives their car on bad weather days but likes to remain able to see out of the front.

The mod is totally easy, but it took me best part of an hour to get the necessary detail out of the forum search. I'll re-post here:

# Nip to you friendly neighbourhood peugeot parts desk, and ask for Peugeot part number 643861 (Bin A6C5) - a "Spray Ramp". It costs about £7. Some people have used a similar TVR part, but this costs £12 and your nearest TVR dealer is probably further away than your nearest peugeot dealer.
# Get hold of some small black cable ties and an adjustable spanner. Some black electrical tape is also handy.
# Remove the washer bottle from the front service compartment. Follow the hose with your fingers, and remove it from the plastic T section. Also remove the plastic T section.
# On the outside of the service compartment, remove the sleeve from around one of your existing window washer nozzles. Then use the spanner to remove the washer nozzle. I found that I didn't need to get a spanner to the nut on the underside, holding it with my fingers was sufficient. Removing the existing washer jet allows the mod to be completed without drilling a hole in your car, making the mod totally reversible.
# post the black tube from the peugeot part through the nozzle hole, and connect it to the hose from the washer bottle. At this point, I tested the spray ramp to be sure I knew how it worked and how best to mount it. There is a hole on the end of the ramp which is easy to direct too wide - fun when a cyclist passes you, but not fun when you have the roof off!
# cable-tie & tape the spray ramp to your wiper arm/blade, making sure the holes point forward. Test again, then return the washer bottle to the service compartment and shut the lid.
# Job done. Takes about 10 mins.

For even more spraying fun, you could even use 2 spray ramps and resurrect the T piece, but I found this was not necessary.

<gallery>
Image:Windscreen washer mod 1.jpg|
Image:Windscreen washer mod 2.jpg|
Image:Windscreen washer mod 3.jpg|
Image:Windscreen washer mod 4.jpg|
Image:Windscreen washer mod 5.jpg|
Image:Windscreen washer mod 6.jpg|
Image:Windscreen washer mod 7.jpg|
Image:Windscreen washer mod 8.jpg|
</gallery>

[[Image:washbar.jpg|thumb|100px|right|Citroen Wash Bar]]EDIT - you can also use the washbar from a citroen BX
"Citroen part no. N93780 bx washer jet spray bar"
And on the S2, the hose to supply the new bar can fit through without any cutting or drilling of holes. - there's a gap large enough under the clam just behind the base of the wiper.

== External links ==
http://www.freeyabb.com/phpbb/viewtopic.php?t=851&mforum=scottisheliseso

[[Category:DIY]]

File:Washbar.jpg

2006-11-22T19:46:05Z

Dr Al:

Windscreen washer mod

2006-11-22T19:39:28Z

Dr Al:

{{Infobox Timetools|time=10 mins|tools=Zip ties, electical tape, adjustable spanner}}
The "peugeot windscreen washer mod" is great for anyone who drives their car on bad weather days but likes to remain able to see out of the front.

The mod is totally easy, but it took me best part of an hour to get the necessary detail out of the forum search. I'll re-post here:

# Nip to you friendly neighbourhood peugeot parts desk, and ask for Peugeot part number 643861 (Bin A6C5) - a "Spray Ramp". It costs about £7. Some people have used a similar TVR part, but this costs £12 and your nearest TVR dealer is probably further away than your nearest peugeot dealer.
# Get hold of some small black cable ties and an adjustable spanner. Some black electrical tape is also handy.
# Remove the washer bottle from the front service compartment. Follow the hose with your fingers, and remove it from the plastic T section. Also remove the plastic T section.
# On the outside of the service compartment, remove the sleeve from around one of your existing window washer nozzles. Then use the spanner to remove the washer nozzle. I found that I didn't need to get a spanner to the nut on the underside, holding it with my fingers was sufficient. Removing the existing washer jet allows the mod to be completed without drilling a hole in your car, making the mod totally reversible.
# post the black tube from the peugeot part through the nozzle hole, and connect it to the hose from the washer bottle. At this point, I tested the spray ramp to be sure I knew how it worked and how best to mount it. There is a hole on the end of the ramp which is easy to direct too wide - fun when a cyclist passes you, but not fun when you have the roof off!
# cable-tie & tape the spray ramp to your wiper arm/blade, making sure the holes point forward. Test again, then return the washer bottle to the service compartment and shut the lid.
# Job done. Takes about 10 mins.

For even more spraying fun, you could even use 2 spray ramps and resurrect the T piece, but I found this was not necessary.

<gallery>
Image:Windscreen washer mod 1.jpg|
Image:Windscreen washer mod 2.jpg|
Image:Windscreen washer mod 3.jpg|
Image:Windscreen washer mod 4.jpg|
Image:Windscreen washer mod 5.jpg|
Image:Windscreen washer mod 6.jpg|
Image:Windscreen washer mod 7.jpg|
Image:Windscreen washer mod 8.jpg|
</gallery>

[[Image:bxwashbar.jpg|thumb|100px|right|Citroen Wash Bar]]EDIT - you can also use the washbar from a citroen BX
"Citroen part no. N93780 bx washer jet spray bar"
And on the S2, the hose to supply the new bar can fit through without any cutting or drilling of holes. - there's a gap large enough under the clam just behind the base of the wiper.

== External links ==
http://www.freeyabb.com/phpbb/viewtopic.php?t=851&mforum=scottisheliseso

[[Category:DIY]]

File:Bxwashbar.jpg

2006-11-22T19:37:42Z

Dr Al: citroen bx wash bar

citroen bx wash bar

Windscreen washer mod

2006-11-22T19:37:09Z

Dr Al:

{{Infobox Timetools|time=10 mins|tools=Zip ties, electical tape, adjustable spanner}}
The "peugeot windscreen washer mod" is great for anyone who drives their car on bad weather days but likes to remain able to see out of the front.

The mod is totally easy, but it took me best part of an hour to get the necessary detail out of the forum search. I'll re-post here:

# Nip to you friendly neighbourhood peugeot parts desk, and ask for Peugeot part number 643861 (Bin A6C5) - a "Spray Ramp". It costs about £7. Some people have used a similar TVR part, but this costs £12 and your nearest TVR dealer is probably further away than your nearest peugeot dealer.
# Get hold of some small black cable ties and an adjustable spanner. Some black electrical tape is also handy.
# Remove the washer bottle from the front service compartment. Follow the hose with your fingers, and remove it from the plastic T section. Also remove the plastic T section.
# On the outside of the service compartment, remove the sleeve from around one of your existing window washer nozzles. Then use the spanner to remove the washer nozzle. I found that I didn't need to get a spanner to the nut on the underside, holding it with my fingers was sufficient. Removing the existing washer jet allows the mod to be completed without drilling a hole in your car, making the mod totally reversible.
# post the black tube from the peugeot part through the nozzle hole, and connect it to the hose from the washer bottle. At this point, I tested the spray ramp to be sure I knew how it worked and how best to mount it. There is a hole on the end of the ramp which is easy to direct too wide - fun when a cyclist passes you, but not fun when you have the roof off!
# cable-tie & tape the spray ramp to your wiper arm/blade, making sure the holes point forward. Test again, then return the washer bottle to the service compartment and shut the lid.
# Job done. Takes about 10 mins.

For even more spraying fun, you could even use 2 spray ramps and resurrect the T piece, but I found this was not necessary.

<gallery>
Image:Windscreen washer mod 1.jpg|
Image:Windscreen washer mod 2.jpg|
Image:Windscreen washer mod 3.jpg|
Image:Windscreen washer mod 4.jpg|
Image:Windscreen washer mod 5.jpg|
Image:Windscreen washer mod 6.jpg|
Image:Windscreen washer mod 7.jpg|
Image:Windscreen washer mod 8.jpg|
</gallery>

[[Image:bxwashbar.jpg|thumb|100px|right|Citroen Wash Bar]]EDIT - you can also use the washbar from a citroen BX
"Citroen part no. N93780 bx washer jet spray bar"

== External links ==
http://www.freeyabb.com/phpbb/viewtopic.php?t=851&mforum=scottisheliseso

[[Category:DIY]]

Smaller Rear View Mirror

2006-11-22T19:31:41Z

Dr Al:

File:Matizmirror.jpg

2006-11-22T19:31:07Z

Dr Al:

Smaller Rear View Mirror

2006-11-22T19:30:25Z

Dr Al:

If you drive a lot of twisty country roads you may have found that the JUMBO sized OEM rear view mirror gets in the way, obscuring a lot of the view out of the windscreen.
Aftermarket options for a smaller mirror are few and expensive.

[[Image:daewoomatiz.jpg|thumb|100px|left|Daewoo Matiz]] A cheap alternative is to fit the mirror from a daewoo matiz (funny wee 3 cylinder shopping trolly, i'd guess most big scrappys would have a few crashed ones. - my local breaker in Glasgow had 5 today.

[[Image:matizmirror.jpg|alt text]]

The pic shows the new one in place above and the old one below in comparison. - it doesn't look like an enormous difference in size, but it makes a BIG difference when you're driving the car!

This mod works for S1s and early S2s. These rear view mirrors have their ball joints in the centre of the back of the mirror.
The mod does not work for 111Rs and S2 exiges. These have their ball joints on the top of the mirror.
I don't know if it works for later K-engined S2s.

Instructions :

1 - remove lotus mirror, by sliding the whole thing (including its stalk) upwards towards the top of the windscreen. - it just slides up leaving a small flat mounting plate in place on the windscreen.

2 - remove the mirror from the stalk by popping the "ball and socket" joint out of joint, - just angle it too far in any direction forcably.

3 - find a Daewoo Matiz in a scrappy. - don't bother trying to remove the stalk and all from the windscreen (i couldn't manage), just dislocate the ball and socket joint in the same way. Just take the mirror leaving the stalk behind.

4 - put the new mirror face down on something soft like your seat, put the ball on the end of your Lotus stalk into the socket of the Daewoo mirror and shove downwards HARD untill it clicks into place.

5 - slide the whole thing back onto the windscreen mounting.

Bingo!

Mine cost me all of £3!!! It works a treat. Much improved visibility, and you retain the lever on the bottom to "dip" the mirror.

File:MatizMirror.jpg

2006-11-22T19:14:50Z

Dr Al:

File:Daewoomatiz.jpg

2006-11-22T19:12:45Z

Dr Al: daewoo matiz

daewoo matiz

File:DaewooMirror.jpg

2006-11-22T19:01:55Z

Dr Al: Comparison of sizes of large OEM mirror and smaller mirror from Daewoo Matiz

Comparison of sizes of large OEM mirror and smaller mirror from Daewoo Matiz