TechWiki - User contributions [en-gb]

2-11 Buying Advice

2011-12-12T14:34:42Z

HVAC MATT:

'''Buying a Lotus two eleven 2-11 Advise given to myself by Ads_green and other members'''

'''Buying Advise 2-11 over Atom''' Ads_green

After testing both, I went for the 211 over the atom as once you get over the acceleration it really doesn't handle as well as you'd think - in my view I suspect the wheel base is too short for the power and the engine is almost rear mounted rather than mid so it's a bit lairy on the limit. The atom 3 will fishtail under full power acceleration and inh the corners lurches from understeer to oversteer and back and forth. You really don't get to put any power down untill you're travelling in a straight line and it doesn't inspire confidence.
I do believe that if you are skilled and confident enough the Atom is a great car but for 99% of the rest of us it's very hard work and feels unbalanced and raw.

As for the 211 it's just fantastic - sure it's heavier and less power but you'll learn more and have more fun whilst you're doing it and probably end up going faster as a bonus. It really rewards smooth driving with an element of grabbing it by the scruff of the neck. Handling is great and very elise like (no surprises there) but where it really shines is under braking. Short of hitting a large immovable object or fitting a parachute and chucking an anchor out you'll be outbraking pretty much everything. For comparision, There's a great clip of a focus diesel outbraking the atom 2 from 100 mph on a dry road.

The problem with both cars is that they are not really even weekend cars and you will probably use them both less than you think.
You'll spend more time looking up at the sky judging the clouds than polishing the car. Even going on a trackday can be stressful as you will get soaked even in a light drizzle and the car will want to spin at the slightest throttle application in the damp.
Finally, the UK roads are simply too crappy and you end up bouncing over the surface even if you adjust the dampers to try to compensate. The car ends up scrabbling for grip and confidence just falls away and you end up not having fun. I know there are 211 owners who don't (myself included) but every trackday I've been on where 211's are present then they have arrived on a trailer and for a good reason.

Unless you are doing around 10 trackdays/year then a 211 is a lot of investment for something you'll real world not use than 1k miles a year and not get to even 10% of it's capability on road. For the cost of servicing, insurance, tax and tyres the cost of renting a 211 on track once a year works out to be cheaper and less hassle (and thats before you split it with a couple mates).

A well sorted Honda/Audi conersion can be had for less money and you'll end up using a lot more. You won't regret buying a 211 but it's often the case that reality doesn't match the dream. Just bear all in mind and go into it with your eyes wide open.

'''Things to consider when looking at a 2-11'''

The rear number plate mount can suffer heat damage. - Ads_green

Make sure car has both battery cut out keys. - Ads_green

Owners manual only on USB stick. - Ads_green

Check Suspension and remote reservoirs for leaks. - Ads_green

Panel gaps are larger and more variable as hand made. Doesnt mean damaged. - Ads_green

Paint can be an issue as seems to be thinner than normal and prone to starring and in even finish. - Ads_green

Leather seats are much better than cloth but don't like getting wet and take days to dry - Ads_green

211 is very low - think 85 or 95 mm ride height and the splitter sticks out a lot. / The front splitter is easily grounded. - Ads_green

If you buy one, upgrade the oil pump - JBS

Accusump are fitted on all of them - Ads_green

Twin coolers are only fitted as part of the supercharger pack else 1 cooler. - Ads_green

Front tow eye is an option and clam off to fit.

There are no front wheel arch liners, any stones will flick up up and create star cracks on the front wings and damage to the exposed oil cooler radiators. Schutz or some form of stick back race foam can be DIY fitted. I understand lotus also spray something is side them

Front oil coolers like all elise variants are probe to leak on the crimp hoses.

Engine cover easy to catch when taking off.

Accusump needs to be at and holding pressure. Electrical switch should keep pressure at iirc 40psi. Turn the key (but don't start car) and accusump should discharge to about 12psi.

Older 'stick' wing mirrors probe to wear and will move at speed. A blob of Araldite on the top of the stems is your friend and will hold them in position. It not like you'll be leaving it in Asda car park for them to get knocked. - Ads_green - TheKevlarKid

early cars have no accessory socket

'''Launch Spec'''

The launch cars also had a few other nice little bits that are different to the later cars.

Lotus stage 1 exhaust as std, the later cars had a much larger and heavier back box. - TheKevlarKid

A lovely aluminium Motorsport heat shield above the exhaust where the later ones had the nimbus shielding as the Exige/Elise has. - TheKevlarKid

adjustable top damper brackets - TheKevlarKid

First 25 were made in the race work shop.

'''parts'''

[http://forums.seloc.org/member.php?action=viewpro&member=junks] Junks supplies all the light weight panels

Polyurethane Engine Mount Inserts for your Lotus http://www.111hq.com/

Service parts manual http://issuu.com/marcassussport/docs/service_parts_list_2-eleven

'''If your not a Ninja'''

The best way to get in and out is to face the back, hold onto the roll bar and step in. Any other way will cause rubbing and wear on the clam. - Ads_green

'''Servicing'''

Servicing isn't like a normal car. Lotus recommend pre track checks rather than an annual service programme owing to the use of the car. - Stephanie Plum

The service prices, The smallest is approx £220.00 plus VAT going upto £480.00 plus VAT for the bigest service.

'''2-11, R500 and a Atom 300 back to back test'''

http://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=ariel+atom+lotus+2+eleven+caterham

[[Category:Lotus 2-Eleven]]

2-11 Buying Advice

2011-12-12T08:52:27Z

HVAC MATT:

'''Buying a Lotus two eleven 2-11 Advise given to myself by Ads_green and other members'''

'''Buying Advise 2-11 over Atom''' Ads_green

After testing both, I went for the 211 over the atom as once you get over the acceleration it really doesn't handle as well as you'd think - in my view I suspect the wheel base is too short for the power and the engine is almost rear mounted rather than mid so it's a bit lairy on the limit. The atom 3 will fishtail under full power acceleration and inh the corners lurches from understeer to oversteer and back and forth. You really don't get to put any power down untill you're travelling in a straight line and it doesn't inspire confidence.
I do believe that if you are skilled and confident enough the Atom is a great car but for 99% of the rest of us it's very hard work and feels unbalanced and raw.

As for the 211 it's just fantastic - sure it's heavier and less power but you'll learn more and have more fun whilst you're doing it and probably end up going faster as a bonus. It really rewards smooth driving with an element of grabbing it by the scruff of the neck. Handling is great and very elise like (no surprises there) but where it really shines is under braking. Short of hitting a large immovable object or fitting a parachute and chucking an anchor out you'll be outbraking pretty much everything. For comparision, There's a great clip of a focus diesel outbraking the atom 2 from 100 mph on a dry road.

The problem with both cars is that they are not really even weekend cars and you will probably use them both less than you think.
You'll spend more time looking up at the sky judging the clouds than polishing the car. Even going on a trackday can be stressful as you will get soaked even in a light drizzle and the car will want to spin at the slightest throttle application in the damp.
Finally, the UK roads are simply too crappy and you end up bouncing over the surface even if you adjust the dampers to try to compensate. The car ends up scrabbling for grip and confidence just falls away and you end up not having fun. I know there are 211 owners who don't (myself included) but every trackday I've been on where 211's are present then they have arrived on a trailer and for a good reason.

Unless you are doing around 10 trackdays/year then a 211 is a lot of investment for something you'll real world not use than 1k miles a year and not get to even 10% of it's capability on road. For the cost of servicing, insurance, tax and tyres the cost of renting a 211 on track once a year works out to be cheaper and less hassle (and thats before you split it with a couple mates).

A well sorted Honda/Audi conersion can be had for less money and you'll end up using a lot more. You won't regret buying a 211 but it's often the case that reality doesn't match the dream. Just bear all in mind and go into it with your eyes wide open.

'''Things to consider when looking at a 2-11'''

The rear number plate mount can suffer heat damage. - Ads_green

Make sure car has both battery cut out keys. - Ads_green

Owners manual only on USB stick. - Ads_green

Check Suspension and remote reservoirs for leaks. - Ads_green

Panel gaps are larger and more variable as hand made. Doesnt mean damaged. - Ads_green

Paint can be an issue as seems to be thinner than normal and prone to starring and in even finish. - Ads_green

Leather seats are much better than cloth but don't like getting wet and take days to dry - Ads_green

211 is very low - think 85 or 95 mm ride height and the splitter sticks out a lot. / The front splitter is easily grounded. - Ads_green

If you buy one, upgrade the oil pump - JBS

Accusump are fitted on all of them - Ads_green

Twin coolers are only fitted as part of the supercharger pack else 1 cooler. - Ads_green

Front tow eye is an option and clam off to fit.

There are no front wheel arch liners, any stones will flick up up and create star cracks on the front wings and damage to the exposed oil cooler radiators. Schutz or some form of stick back race foam can be DIY fitted. I understand lotus also spray something is side them

Front oil coolers like all elise variants are probe to leak on the crimp hoses.

Engine cover easy to catch when taking off.

Accusump needs to be at and holding pressure. Electrical switch should keep pressure at iirc 40psi. Turn the key (but don't start car) and accusump should discharge to about 12psi.

Older 'stick' wing mirrors probe to wear and will move at speed. A blob of Araldite on the top of the stems is your friend and will hold them in position. It not like you'll be leaving it in Asda car park for them to get knocked. - Ads_green - TheKevlarKid

early cars have no accessory socket

'''Launch Spec'''

The launch cars also had a few other nice little bits that are different to the later cars.

Lotus stage 1 exhaust as std, the later cars had a much larger and heavier back box. - TheKevlarKid

A lovely aluminium Motorsport heat shield above the exhaust where the later ones had the nimbus shielding as the Exige/Elise has. - TheKevlarKid

adjustable top damper brackets - TheKevlarKid

First 25 were made in the race work shop.

'''parts'''

[http://forums.seloc.org/member.php?action=viewpro&member=junks] Junks supplies all the light weight panels

Polyurethane Engine Mount Inserts for your Lotus http://www.111hq.com/

'''If your not a Ninja'''

The best way to get in and out is to face the back, hold onto the roll bar and step in. Any other way will cause rubbing and wear on the clam. - Ads_green

'''Servicing'''

Servicing isn't like a normal car. Lotus recommend pre track checks rather than an annual service programme owing to the use of the car. - Stephanie Plum

The service prices, The smallest is approx £220.00 plus VAT going upto £480.00 plus VAT for the bigest service.

'''2-11, R500 and a Atom 300 back to back test'''

http://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=ariel+atom+lotus+2+eleven+caterham

[[Category:Lotus 2-Eleven]]

2-11 Buying Advice

2011-12-09T11:44:21Z

HVAC MATT:

'''Buying a Lotus two eleven 2-11 Advise given to myself by Ads_green and other members'''

'''Buying Advise 2-11 over Atom''' Ads_green

After testing both, I went for the 211 over the atom as once you get over the acceleration it really doesn't handle as well as you'd think - in my view I suspect the wheel base is too short for the power and the engine is almost rear mounted rather than mid so it's a bit lairy on the limit. The atom 3 will fishtail under full power acceleration and inh the corners lurches from understeer to oversteer and back and forth. You really don't get to put any power down untill you're travelling in a straight line and it doesn't inspire confidence.
I do believe that if you are skilled and confident enough the Atom is a great car but for 99% of the rest of us it's very hard work and feels unbalanced and raw.

As for the 211 it's just fantastic - sure it's heavier and less power but you'll learn more and have more fun whilst you're doing it and probably end up going faster as a bonus. It really rewards smooth driving with an element of grabbing it by the scruff of the neck. Handling is great and very elise like (no surprises there) but where it really shines is under braking. Short of hitting a large immovable object or fitting a parachute and chucking an anchor out you'll be outbraking pretty much everything. For comparision, There's a great clip of a focus diesel outbraking the atom 2 from 100 mph on a dry road.

The problem with both cars is that they are not really even weekend cars and you will probably use them both less than you think.
You'll spend more time looking up at the sky judging the clouds than polishing the car. Even going on a trackday can be stressful as you will get soaked even in a light drizzle and the car will want to spin at the slightest throttle application in the damp.
Finally, the UK roads are simply too crappy and you end up bouncing over the surface even if you adjust the dampers to try to compensate. The car ends up scrabbling for grip and confidence just falls away and you end up not having fun. I know there are 211 owners who don't (myself included) but every trackday I've been on where 211's are present then they have arrived on a trailer and for a good reason.

Unless you are doing around 10 trackdays/year then a 211 is a lot of investment for something you'll real world not use than 1k miles a year and not get to even 10% of it's capability on road. For the cost of servicing, insurance, tax and tyres the cost of renting a 211 on track once a year works out to be cheaper and less hassle (and thats before you split it with a couple mates).

A well sorted Honda/Audi conersion can be had for less money and you'll end up using a lot more. You won't regret buying a 211 but it's often the case that reality doesn't match the dream. Just bear all in mind and go into it with your eyes wide open.

'''Things to consider when looking at a 2-11'''

The rear number plate mount can suffer heat damage. - Ads_green

Make sure car has both battery cut out keys. - Ads_green

Owners manual only on USB stick. - Ads_green

Check Suspension and remote reservoirs for leaks. - Ads_green

Panel gaps are larger and more variable as hand made. Doesnt mean damaged. - Ads_green

Paint can be an issue as seems to be thinner than normal and prone to starring and in even finish. - Ads_green

Leather seats are much better than cloth but don't like getting wet and take days to dry - Ads_green

211 is very low - think 85 or 95 mm ride height and the splitter sticks out a lot. / The front splitter is easily grounded. - Ads_green

If you buy one, upgrade the oil pump - JBS

Accusump are fitted on all of them - Ads_green

Twin coolers are only fitted as part of the supercharger pack else 1 cooler. - Ads_green

Front tow eye is an option and clam off to fit.

There are no front wheel arch liners, any stones will flick up up and create star cracks on the front wings and damage to the exposed oil cooler radiators. Schutz or some form of stick back race foam can be DIY fitted. I understand lotus also spray something is side them

Front oil coolers like all elise variants are probe to leak on the crimp hoses.

Engine cover easy to catch when taking off.

Accusump needs to be at and holding pressure. Electrical switch should keep pressure at iirc 40psi. Turn the key (but don't start car) and accusump should discharge to about 12psi.

Older 'stick' wing mirrors probe to wear and will move at speed. A blob of Araldite on the top of the stems is your friend and will hold them in position. It not like you'll be leaving it in Asda car park for them to get knocked. - Ads_green - TheKevlarKid

early cars have no accessory socket

'''Launch Spec'''

The launch cars also had a few other nice little bits that are different to the later cars.

Lotus stage 1 exhaust as std, the later cars had a much larger and heavier back box. - TheKevlarKid

A lovely aluminium Motorsport heat shield above the exhaust where the later ones had the nimbus shielding as the Exige/Elise has. - TheKevlarKid

adjustable top damper brackets - TheKevlarKid

First 25 were made in the race work shop.

'''parts'''

[http://forums.seloc.org/member.php?action=viewpro&member=junks] Junks supplies all the light weight panels

'''If your not a Ninja'''

The best way to get in and out is to face the back, hold onto the roll bar and step in. Any other way will cause rubbing and wear on the clam. - Ads_green

'''Servicing'''

Servicing isn't like a normal car. Lotus recommend pre track checks rather than an annual service programme owing to the use of the car. - Stephanie Plum

The service prices, The smallest is approx £220.00 plus VAT going upto £480.00 plus VAT for the bigest service.

'''2-11, R500 and a Atom 300 back to back test'''

http://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=ariel+atom+lotus+2+eleven+caterham

[[Category:Lotus 2-Eleven]]

Category talk:Lotus 2-Eleven

2011-12-05T16:18:12Z

HVAC MATT:

'''Buying a Lotus two eleven 2-11 Advise given to myself by Ads_green and other members'''

'''Buying Advise 2-11 over Atom''' Ads_green

After testing both, I went for the 211 over the atom as once you get over the acceleration it really doesn't handle as well as you'd think - in my view I suspect the wheel base is too short for the power and the engine is almost rear mounted rather than mid so it's a bit lairy on the limit. The atom 3 will fishtail under full power acceleration and inh the corners lurches from understeer to oversteer and back and forth. You really don't get to put any power down untill you're travelling in a straight line and it doesn't inspire confidence.
I do believe that if you are skilled and confident enough the Atom is a great car but for 99% of the rest of us it's very hard work and feels unbalanced and raw.

As for the 211 it's just fantastic - sure it's heavier and less power but you'll learn more and have more fun whilst you're doing it and probably end up going faster as a bonus. It really rewards smooth driving with an element of grabbing it by the scruff of the neck. Handling is great and very elise like (no surprises there) but where it really shines is under braking. Short of hitting a large immovable object or fitting a parachute and chucking an anchor out you'll be outbraking pretty much everything. For comparision, There's a great clip of a focus diesel outbraking the atom 2 from 100 mph on a dry road.

The problem with both cars is that they are not really even weekend cars and you will probably use them both less than you think.
You'll spend more time looking up at the sky judging the clouds than polishing the car. Even going on a trackday can be stressful as you will get soaked even in a light drizzle and the car will want to spin at the slightest throttle application in the damp.
Finally, the UK roads are simply too crappy and you end up bouncing over the surface even if you adjust the dampers to try to compensate. The car ends up scrabbling for grip and confidence just falls away and you end up not having fun. I know there are 211 owners who don't (myself included) but every trackday I've been on where 211's are present then they have arrived on a trailer and for a good reason.

Unless you are doing around 10 trackdays/year then a 211 is a lot of investment for something you'll real world not use than 1k miles a year and not get to even 10% of it's capability on road. For the cost of servicing, insurance, tax and tyres the cost of renting a 211 on track once a year works out to be cheaper and less hassle (and thats before you split it with a couple mates).

A well sorted Honda/Audi conersion can be had for less money and you'll end up using a lot more. You won't regret buying a 211 but it's often the case that reality doesn't match the dream. Just bear all in mind and go into it with your eyes wide open.

'''Things to consider when looking at a 2-11'''

The rear number plate mount can suffer heat damage. - Ads_green

Make sure car has both battery cut out keys. - Ads_green

Owners manual only on USB stick. - Ads_green

Check Suspension and remote reservoirs for leaks. - Ads_green

Panel gaps are larger and more variable as hand made. Doesnt mean damaged. - Ads_green

Paint can be an issue as seems to be thinner than normal and prone to starring and in even finish. - Ads_green

Leather seats are much better than cloth but don't like getting wet and take days to dry - Ads_green

211 is very low - think 85 or 95 mm ride height and the splitter sticks out a lot. / The front splitter is easily grounded. - Ads_green

If you buy one, upgrade the oil pump - JBS

Accusump are fitted on all of them - Ads_green

Twin coolers are only fitted as part of the supercharger pack else 1 cooler. - Ads_green

Front tow eye is an option and clam off to fit.

There are no front wheel arch liners, any stones will flick up up and create star cracks on the front wings and damage to the exposed oil cooler radiators. Schutz or some form of stick back race foam can be DIY fitted. I understand lotus also spray something is side them

Front oil coolers like all elise variants are probe to leak on the crimp hoses.

Engine cover easy to catch when taking off.

Accusump needs to be at and holding pressure. Electrical switch should keep pressure at iirc 40psi. Turn the key (but don't start car) and accusump should discharge to about 12psi.

Older 'stick' wing mirrors probe to wear and will move at speed. A blob of Araldite on the top of the stems is your friend and will hold them in position. It not like you'll be leaving it in Asda car park for them to get knocked. - Ads_green - TheKevlarKid

early cars have no accessory socket

'''Launch Spec'''

The launch cars also had a few other nice little bits that are different to the later cars.

Lotus stage 1 exhaust as std, the later cars had a much larger and heavier back box. - TheKevlarKid

A lovely aluminium Motorsport heat shield above the exhaust where the later ones had the nimbus shielding as the Exige/Elise has. - TheKevlarKid

adjustable top damper brackets - TheKevlarKid

First 25 were made in the race work shop.

'''parts'''

[http://forums.seloc.org/member.php?action=viewpro&member=junks] Junks supplies all the light weight panels

'''If your not a Ninja'''

The best way to get in and out is to face the back, hold onto the roll bar and step in. Any other way will cause rubbing and wear on the clam. - Ads_green

'''2-11, R500 and a Atom 300 back to back test'''

http://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=ariel+atom+lotus+2+eleven+caterham

Category talk:Lotus 2-Eleven

2011-12-05T16:15:34Z

HVAC MATT:

'''Buying a Lotus two eleven 2-11 Advise given to myself by Ads_green and other members'''

'''Buying Advise 2-11 over Atom''' Ads_green

After testing both, I went for the 211 over the atom as once you get over the acceleration it really doesn't handle as well as you'd think - in my view I suspect the wheel base is too short for the power and the engine is almost rear mounted rather than mid so it's a bit lairy on the limit. The atom 3 will fishtail under full power acceleration and inh the corners lurches from understeer to oversteer and back and forth. You really don't get to put any power down untill you're travelling in a straight line and it doesn't inspire confidence.
I do believe that if you are skilled and confident enough the Atom is a great car but for 99% of the rest of us it's very hard work and feels unbalanced and raw.

As for the 211 it's just fantastic - sure it's heavier and less power but you'll learn more and have more fun whilst you're doing it and probably end up going faster as a bonus. It really rewards smooth driving with an element of grabbing it by the scruff of the neck. Handling is great and very elise like (no surprises there) but where it really shines is under braking. Short of hitting a large immovable object or fitting a parachute and chucking an anchor out you'll be outbraking pretty much everything. For comparision, There's a great clip of a focus diesel outbraking the atom 2 from 100 mph on a dry road.

The problem with both cars is that they are not really even weekend cars and you will probably use them both less than you think.
You'll spend more time looking up at the sky judging the clouds than polishing the car. Even going on a trackday can be stressful as you will get soaked even in a light drizzle and the car will want to spin at the slightest throttle application in the damp.
Finally, the UK roads are simply too crappy and you end up bouncing over the surface even if you adjust the dampers to try to compensate. The car ends up scrabbling for grip and confidence just falls away and you end up not having fun. I know there are 211 owners who don't (myself included) but every trackday I've been on where 211's are present then they have arrived on a trailer and for a good reason.

Unless you are doing around 10 trackdays/year then a 211 is a lot of investment for something you'll real world not use than 1k miles a year and not get to even 10% of it's capability on road. For the cost of servicing, insurance, tax and tyres the cost of renting a 211 on track once a year works out to be cheaper and less hassle (and thats before you split it with a couple mates).

A well sorted Honda/Audi conersion can be had for less money and you'll end up using a lot more. You won't regret buying a 211 but it's often the case that reality doesn't match the dream. Just bear all in mind and go into it with your eyes wide open.

'''Things to consider when looking at a 2-11'''

The rear number plate mount can suffer heat damage. - Ads_green

Make sure car has both battery cut out keys. - Ads_green

Owners manual only on USB stick. - Ads_green

Check Suspension and remote reservoirs for leaks. - Ads_green

Panel gaps are larger and more variable as hand made. Doesnt mean damaged. - Ads_green

Paint can be an issue as seems to be thinner than normal and prone to starring and in even finish. - Ads_green

Leather seats are much better than cloth but don't like getting wet and take days to dry - Ads_green

211 is very low - think 85 or 95 mm ride height and the splitter sticks out a lot. / The front splitter is easily grounded. - Ads_green

If you buy one, upgrade the oil pump - JBS

Accusump are fitted on all of them - Ads_green

Twin coolers are only fitted as part of the supercharger pack else 1 cooler. - Ads_green

Front tow eye is an option and clam off to fit.

there are no front wheel arch liners, any stones will flick up up and create star cracks on the front wings and damage to the exposed oil cooler radiators. Schutz or some form of stick back race foam can be DIY fitted. I understand lotus also spray something is side them

front oil coolers like all elise variants are probe to leak on the crimp hoses.

engine cover easy to catch when taking off.

accusump needs to be at and holding pressure. Electrical switch should keep pressure at iirc 40psi. Turn the key (but don't start car) and accusump should discharge to about 12psi.

older 'stick' wing mirrors probe to wear and will move at speed. A blob of Araldite on the top of the stems is your friend and will hold them in position. It not like you'll be leaving it in Asda car park for them to get knocked. - Ads_green - TheKevlarKid

early cars have no accessory socket

'''Launch Spec'''

The launch cars also had a few other nice little bits that are different to the later cars.

Lotus stage 1 exhaust as std, the later cars had a much larger and heavier back box. - TheKevlarKid

A lovely aluminium Motorsport heat shield above the exhaust where the later ones had the nimbus shielding as the Exige/Elise has. - TheKevlarKid

adjustable top damper brackets - TheKevlarKid

'''parts'''

[http://forums.seloc.org/member.php?action=viewpro&member=junks] Junks supplies all the light weight panels

'''If your not a Ninja'''

The best way to get in and out is to face the back, hold onto the roll bar and step in. Any other way will cause rubbing and wear on the clam. - Ads_green

'''2-11, R500 and a Atom 300 back to back test'''
http://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=ariel+atom+lotus+2+eleven+caterham

Category talk:Lotus 2-Eleven

2011-12-05T16:11:28Z

HVAC MATT:

'''Buying a Lotus two eleven 2-11 Advise given to myself by Ads_green and other members'''

'''Things to consider when looking at a 2-11'''

The rear number plate mount can suffer heat damage. - Ads_green

Make sure car has both battery cut out keys. - Ads_green

Owners manual only on USB stick. - Ads_green

Check Suspension and remote reservoirs for leaks. - Ads_green

Panel gaps are larger and more variable as hand made. Doesnt mean damaged. - Ads_green

Paint can be an issue as seems to be thinner than normal and prone to starring and in even finish. - Ads_green

Leather seats are much better than cloth but don't like getting wet and take days to dry - Ads_green

211 is very low - think 85 or 95 mm ride height and the splitter sticks out a lot. / The front splitter is easily grounded. - Ads_green

If you buy one, upgrade the oil pump - JBS

Accusump are fitted on all of them - Ads_green

Twin coolers are only fitted as part of the supercharger pack else 1 cooler. - Ads_green

Front tow eye is an option and clam off to fit.

there are no front wheel arch liners, any stones will flick up up and create star cracks on the front wings and damage to the exposed oil cooler radiators. Schutz or some form of stick back race foam can be DIY fitted. I understand lotus also spray something is side them

front oil coolers like all elise variants are probe to leak on the crimp hoses.

engine cover easy to catch when taking off.

accusump needs to be at and holding pressure. Electrical switch should keep pressure at iirc 40psi. Turn the key (but don't start car) and accusump should discharge to about 12psi.

older 'stick' wing mirrors probe to wear and will move at speed. A blob of Araldite on the top of the stems is your friend and will hold them in position. It not like you'll be leaving it in Asda car park for them to get knocked. - Ads_green - TheKevlarKid

early cars have no accessory socket

'''Launch Spec'''

The launch cars also had a few other nice little bits that are different to the later cars.

Lotus stage 1 exhaust as std, the later cars had a much larger and heavier back box. - TheKevlarKid

A lovely aluminium Motorsport heat shield above the exhaust where the later ones had the nimbus shielding as the Exige/Elise has. - TheKevlarKid

adjustable top damper brackets - TheKevlarKid

'''parts'''

[http://forums.seloc.org/member.php?action=viewpro&member=junks] Junks supplies all the light weight panels

'''If your not a Ninja'''

The best way to get in and out is to face the back, hold onto the roll bar and step in. Any other way will cause rubbing and wear on the clam. - Ads_green

'''2-11, R500 and a Atom 300 back to back test'''
http://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=ariel+atom+lotus+2+eleven+caterham

Category talk:Lotus 2-Eleven

2011-12-05T16:09:26Z

HVAC MATT:

Category talk:Lotus 2-Eleven

2011-12-05T16:07:08Z

HVAC MATT:

'''Buying a Lotus two eleven 2-11 Advise given to myself by Ads_green and other members'''

'''Things to consider when looking at a 2-11'''

The rear number plate mount can suffer heat damage. - Ads_green

Make sure car has both battery cut out keys. - Ads_green

Owners manual only on USB stick. - Ads_green

Check Suspension and remote reservoirs for leaks. - Ads_green

Panel gaps are larger and more variable as hand made. Doesnt mean damaged. - Ads_green

Paint can be an issue as seems to be thinner than normal and prone to starring and in even finish. - Ads_green

Leather seats are much better than cloth but don't like getting wet and take days to dry - Ads_green

211 is very low - think 85 or 95 mm ride height and the splitter sticks out a lot. - Ads_green The front splitter is easily grounded. - Ads_green

If you buy one, upgrade the oil pump - JBS

Accusump are fitted on all of them - Ads_green

Twin coolers are only fitted as part of the supercharger pack else 1 cooler. - Ads_green

Front tow eye is an option and clam off to fit.

there are no front wheel arch liners, any stones will flick up up and create star cracks on the front wings and damage to the exposed oil cooler radiators. Shutz or some form of stick back race foam can be DIY fitted.

front oil coolers like all elise variants are probe to leak on the crimp hoses.

engine cover easy to catch when taking off.

accusump needs to be at and holding pressure. Electrical switch should keep pressure at iirc 40psi. Turn the key (but don't start car) and accusump should discharge to about 12psi.

older 'stick' wing mirrors probe to wear and will move at speed. A blob of Araldite on the top of the stems is your friend and will hold them in position. It not like you'll be leaving it in Asda car park for them to get knocked. - Ads_green - TheKevlarKid

early cars have no accessory socket

'''Launch Spec'''

The launch cars also had a few other nice little bits that are different to the later cars.

Lotus stage 1 exhaust as std, the later cars had a much larger and heavier back box. - TheKevlarKid

A lovely aluminium Motorsport heat shield above the exhaust where the later ones had the nimbus shielding as the Exige/Elise has. - TheKevlarKid

adjustable top damper brackets - TheKevlarKid

'''parts'''

[http://forums.seloc.org/member.php?action=viewpro&member=junks] Junks supplies all the light weight panels

'''If your not a Ninja'''

The best way to get in and out is to face the back, hold onto the roll bar and step in. Any other way will cause rubbing and wear on the clam. - Ads_green

Category talk:Lotus 2-Eleven

2011-12-05T16:04:21Z

HVAC MATT:

'''Buying a Lotus two eleven 2-11 Advise given to myself by Ads_green and other members'''

'''Things to consider when looking at a 2-11'''

the front splitter is easily grounded. Worth checking. - Ads_green

The rear number plate mount can suffer heat damage. - Ads_green

Make sure car has both battery cut out keys. - Ads_green

Owners manual only on USB stick. - Ads_green

Check Suspension and remote reservoirs for leaks. - Ads_green

Panel gaps are larger and more variable as hand made. Doesnt mean damaged. - Ads_green

Paint can be an issue as seems to be thinner than normal and prone to starring and in even finish. - Ads_green

Leather seats are much better than cloth but don't like getting wet and take days to dry - Ads_green

211 is very low - think 85 or 95 mm ride height and the splitter sticks out a lot. - Ads_green

if you buy one, upgrade the oil pump - JBS

Accusump are fitted on all of them - Ads_green

Twin coolers are only fitted as part of the supercharger pack else 1 cooler. - Ads_green

Front tow eye is an option and clam off to fit.
The best way to get in and out is to face the back, hold onto the roll bar and step in. Any other way will cause rubbing and wear on the clam.

there are no front wheel arch liners, any stones will flick up up and create star cracks on the front wings and damage to the exposed oil cooler radiators. Shutz or some form of stick back race foam can be DIY fitted.

front oil coolers like all elise variants are probe to leak on the crimp hoses.

engine cover easy to catch when taking off.

accusump needs to be at and holding pressure. Electrical switch should keep pressure at iirc 40psi. Turn the key (but don't start car) and accusump should discharge to about 12psi.

older 'stick' wing mirrors probe to wear and will move at speed. A blob of Araldite on the top of the stems is your friend and will hold them in position. It not like you'll be leaving it in Asda car park for them to get knocked. - Ads_green - TheKevlarKid

early cars have no accessory socket

'''Launch Spec'''

The launch cars also had a few other nice little bits that are different to the later cars.

Lotus stage 1 exhaust as std, the later cars had a much larger and heavier back box. - TheKevlarKid

A lovely aluminium Motorsport heat shield above the exhaust where the later ones had the nimbus shielding as the Exige/Elise has. - TheKevlarKid

adjustable top damper brackets - TheKevlarKid

[http://forums.seloc.org/member.php?action=viewpro&member=junks] Junks supplies all the light weight panels

Category talk:Lotus 2-Eleven

2011-12-05T15:49:16Z

HVAC MATT: Created page with "'''Buying a Lotus two eleven 2-11'''"

'''Buying a Lotus two eleven 2-11'''

Oil and filter change

2011-06-06T09:45:37Z

HVAC MATT: /* 111R Notes */

{{Infobox Timetools|
time = 20-30 mins|
tools = 14mm spanner, torque wrench, filter removal tool, new oil drain plug sealing washer, tools for removing undertray|
}}

Frequent oil and filter changes are the most important preventative maintenance procedures which can be undertaken by the owner. As engine oil ages, it becomes diluted and contaminated, which leads to premature engine wear.

[[Oil_Labelling_Explained|Information About Oil]]

[http://arc.seloc.org/t/106354 Also See This Thread, good info in there]

==Procedure==
# Warm engine up
# Raise rear of car.1
# [[Remove the rear undertray|Remove middle undertray]].
# Remove the oil filler cap from the cylinder head cover.
# Remove sump plug with a 15mm (K Series) socket/spanner and drain oil into something that will hold 5 litres of fluid.
# Replace sump plug washer and screw in sump plug. Tighten to 25 Nm.
# Remove oil filter. (I managed to use a chain removal tool successfully on the K Series, S2 111S)
# Smear some oil on the seal of new filter and screw on by hand (it also helps to part fill the new filter with oil).
# Pour the new oil in to the engine, the amount will very if you have remote coolers or a non standard installation but a Kseries will be around 4ltrs, remember though its easier to top up than remove.
# Remove engine management system fuse or fuel pump fuse from fuse box.
# Check the car is in neutral, then turn the engine over (the engine will not fire due to the removed fuse) and observe the oil pressure light going out. Have a look underneath for a possible leak at the oil filter or sump plug. Slightly tighten oil filter if necessary, do not over tighten.
# Replace the previously removed [[ECU]] or fuel pump fuse.
# Start the engine, check it fires and run for a short while.
# Turn engine off and check again for any leaks.
# [[Remove the rear undertray|Replace undertray]]
# Lower car, leave for a short while and check dipstsick.

==Notes==

1Access to the underside of the vehicle will be greatly improved if it can be raised on a lift, driven onto ramps, or jacked up and supported on axle stands. I reverse mine onto ramps, but if you've got some blocks of wood that are approx 3 inches + tall then you can squeeze underneath without too much bother.
Which ever option you choose ensure that the car is left in gear, with the handbrake on and the front wheels are chocked so that there is no chance the car can move off the supports.

2The thread on the oil filter and oil filter take off is 13/16-16 UNF
[[Category:DIY]]

==111R Notes==

Tools needed:

- 8mm spanner for small undertray bolts
- 13 mm (1/2") socket and ratchet for large undertray bolts
- 9/16" spanner for sump plug
- Short, but stout screwdriver and hammer to remove filter or 25mm socket for KnN filter

As has been previously discussed in various threads, using a chain tool to remove the filter does is not too successful - there is just no room to move the tool around properly. Instead the whack-a-screwdriver-though-and-turn technique is the preferred method.

Whilst under the car check for wear on the coolant return pipe as it can wear through as it rubs on the cooler fitting under engine movement. As a preventative measure you could cable-tie a bit of rubber pipe at the return. This pipe is not on all cars.

[[Image:return.jpg]]

==K Series Oil Filters==

These filters can be used with all K series engines.

#AC DELCO 93156323
#AC DELCO 25011520 (PF 53)
#AMSOIL SDF-57
#BECK/ARNLEY 0418988
#BOSCH 72150
#FRAM PH966B
#FRAM PH2870A
#FRAM PH3614
#K&N HP1002
#MANN 056 115 561G
#NAPA 1374
#PUROLATOR L10028
#PUROLATOR L10241 Metro 1.3L
#UNIPART GFE148
#WIX WL7142
#Mobil M1 102
#Champion B104
#Mahle OC237

==S2 111R and S2 Exige n/a Series Oil Filters==

The Toyota part numbers for oil filters are:

#90915-YZZJ2
#90915-10004
#90915-TA002
#TRD 00602-90915-006
#TRD 90915-SP010
#Mahle OC217
#KnN HP-1002 25mm nut end.

Some of the part numbers have changed but I believe these are valid. The TRD numbers are for Toyota Racing items, usually coloured red.

I ask for 90915-YZZJ2 at my local Toyota garage and it fits and works fine or ask for a filter to fit a Gen 6 Toyota Celica up to 2004. Or to fit the 2ZZ-GE Toyota engine.

Here is a list of cars that share the yota engine
[[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_ZZ_engine]]

To save all the hammering a screwdrive "issues". Get your self a KnN oil filter part HP-1002. It has a 25mm nut on the end you can use socket to get it on and off. Would seem to be a Sinclaires standard fit and my car was last serviced there etc.

Dont for get to change your sump bolt crush washer. It is the smaller non metal of the 2 types most shops sell for toyota cars

== Honda conversion filters==

Cars with Honda conversions may need a specific type of filter. List can be found [[Oil_filters_for_Honda_conversion|HERE]]

[[Category:Engine]]
[[Category:Fluid]]
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S1]]
[[Category:S2]]

Oil and filter change

2011-06-06T09:44:40Z

HVAC MATT: /* S2 111R and S2 Exige n/a Series Oil Filters */

{{Infobox Timetools|
time = 20-30 mins|
tools = 14mm spanner, torque wrench, filter removal tool, new oil drain plug sealing washer, tools for removing undertray|
}}

Frequent oil and filter changes are the most important preventative maintenance procedures which can be undertaken by the owner. As engine oil ages, it becomes diluted and contaminated, which leads to premature engine wear.

[[Oil_Labelling_Explained|Information About Oil]]

[http://arc.seloc.org/t/106354 Also See This Thread, good info in there]

==Procedure==
# Warm engine up
# Raise rear of car.1
# [[Remove the rear undertray|Remove middle undertray]].
# Remove the oil filler cap from the cylinder head cover.
# Remove sump plug with a 15mm (K Series) socket/spanner and drain oil into something that will hold 5 litres of fluid.
# Replace sump plug washer and screw in sump plug. Tighten to 25 Nm.
# Remove oil filter. (I managed to use a chain removal tool successfully on the K Series, S2 111S)
# Smear some oil on the seal of new filter and screw on by hand (it also helps to part fill the new filter with oil).
# Pour the new oil in to the engine, the amount will very if you have remote coolers or a non standard installation but a Kseries will be around 4ltrs, remember though its easier to top up than remove.
# Remove engine management system fuse or fuel pump fuse from fuse box.
# Check the car is in neutral, then turn the engine over (the engine will not fire due to the removed fuse) and observe the oil pressure light going out. Have a look underneath for a possible leak at the oil filter or sump plug. Slightly tighten oil filter if necessary, do not over tighten.
# Replace the previously removed [[ECU]] or fuel pump fuse.
# Start the engine, check it fires and run for a short while.
# Turn engine off and check again for any leaks.
# [[Remove the rear undertray|Replace undertray]]
# Lower car, leave for a short while and check dipstsick.

==Notes==

1Access to the underside of the vehicle will be greatly improved if it can be raised on a lift, driven onto ramps, or jacked up and supported on axle stands. I reverse mine onto ramps, but if you've got some blocks of wood that are approx 3 inches + tall then you can squeeze underneath without too much bother.
Which ever option you choose ensure that the car is left in gear, with the handbrake on and the front wheels are chocked so that there is no chance the car can move off the supports.

2The thread on the oil filter and oil filter take off is 13/16-16 UNF
[[Category:DIY]]

==111R Notes==

Tools needed:

- 8mm spanner for small undertray bolts
- 13 mm (1/2") socket and ratchet for large undertray bolts
- 9/16" spanner for sump plug
- Short, but stout screwdriver and hammer to remove filter

As has been previously discussed in various threads, using a chain tool to remove the filter does is not too successful - there is just no room to move the tool around properly. Instead the whack-a-screwdriver-though-and-turn technique is the preferred method.

Whilst under the car check for wear on the coolant return pipe as it can wear through as it rubs on the cooler fitting under engine movement. As a preventative measure you could cable-tie a bit of rubber pipe at the return. This pipe is not on all cars.

[[Image:return.jpg]]

==K Series Oil Filters==

These filters can be used with all K series engines.

#AC DELCO 93156323
#AC DELCO 25011520 (PF 53)
#AMSOIL SDF-57
#BECK/ARNLEY 0418988
#BOSCH 72150
#FRAM PH966B
#FRAM PH2870A
#FRAM PH3614
#K&N HP1002
#MANN 056 115 561G
#NAPA 1374
#PUROLATOR L10028
#PUROLATOR L10241 Metro 1.3L
#UNIPART GFE148
#WIX WL7142
#Mobil M1 102
#Champion B104
#Mahle OC237

==S2 111R and S2 Exige n/a Series Oil Filters==

The Toyota part numbers for oil filters are:

#90915-YZZJ2
#90915-10004
#90915-TA002
#TRD 00602-90915-006
#TRD 90915-SP010
#Mahle OC217
#KnN HP-1002 25mm nut end.

Some of the part numbers have changed but I believe these are valid. The TRD numbers are for Toyota Racing items, usually coloured red.

I ask for 90915-YZZJ2 at my local Toyota garage and it fits and works fine or ask for a filter to fit a Gen 6 Toyota Celica up to 2004. Or to fit the 2ZZ-GE Toyota engine.

Here is a list of cars that share the yota engine
[[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_ZZ_engine]]

To save all the hammering a screwdrive "issues". Get your self a KnN oil filter part HP-1002. It has a 25mm nut on the end you can use socket to get it on and off. Would seem to be a Sinclaires standard fit and my car was last serviced there etc.

Dont for get to change your sump bolt crush washer. It is the smaller non metal of the 2 types most shops sell for toyota cars

== Honda conversion filters==

Cars with Honda conversions may need a specific type of filter. List can be found [[Oil_filters_for_Honda_conversion|HERE]]

[[Category:Engine]]
[[Category:Fluid]]
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S1]]
[[Category:S2]]

Oil and filter change

2011-06-06T09:41:46Z

HVAC MATT: /* S2 111R and S2 Exige n/a Series Oil Filters */

{{Infobox Timetools|
time = 20-30 mins|
tools = 14mm spanner, torque wrench, filter removal tool, new oil drain plug sealing washer, tools for removing undertray|
}}

Frequent oil and filter changes are the most important preventative maintenance procedures which can be undertaken by the owner. As engine oil ages, it becomes diluted and contaminated, which leads to premature engine wear.

[[Oil_Labelling_Explained|Information About Oil]]

[http://arc.seloc.org/t/106354 Also See This Thread, good info in there]

==Procedure==
# Warm engine up
# Raise rear of car.1
# [[Remove the rear undertray|Remove middle undertray]].
# Remove the oil filler cap from the cylinder head cover.
# Remove sump plug with a 15mm (K Series) socket/spanner and drain oil into something that will hold 5 litres of fluid.
# Replace sump plug washer and screw in sump plug. Tighten to 25 Nm.
# Remove oil filter. (I managed to use a chain removal tool successfully on the K Series, S2 111S)
# Smear some oil on the seal of new filter and screw on by hand (it also helps to part fill the new filter with oil).
# Pour the new oil in to the engine, the amount will very if you have remote coolers or a non standard installation but a Kseries will be around 4ltrs, remember though its easier to top up than remove.
# Remove engine management system fuse or fuel pump fuse from fuse box.
# Check the car is in neutral, then turn the engine over (the engine will not fire due to the removed fuse) and observe the oil pressure light going out. Have a look underneath for a possible leak at the oil filter or sump plug. Slightly tighten oil filter if necessary, do not over tighten.
# Replace the previously removed [[ECU]] or fuel pump fuse.
# Start the engine, check it fires and run for a short while.
# Turn engine off and check again for any leaks.
# [[Remove the rear undertray|Replace undertray]]
# Lower car, leave for a short while and check dipstsick.

==Notes==

1Access to the underside of the vehicle will be greatly improved if it can be raised on a lift, driven onto ramps, or jacked up and supported on axle stands. I reverse mine onto ramps, but if you've got some blocks of wood that are approx 3 inches + tall then you can squeeze underneath without too much bother.
Which ever option you choose ensure that the car is left in gear, with the handbrake on and the front wheels are chocked so that there is no chance the car can move off the supports.

2The thread on the oil filter and oil filter take off is 13/16-16 UNF
[[Category:DIY]]

==111R Notes==

Tools needed:

- 8mm spanner for small undertray bolts
- 13 mm (1/2") socket and ratchet for large undertray bolts
- 9/16" spanner for sump plug
- Short, but stout screwdriver and hammer to remove filter

As has been previously discussed in various threads, using a chain tool to remove the filter does is not too successful - there is just no room to move the tool around properly. Instead the whack-a-screwdriver-though-and-turn technique is the preferred method.

Whilst under the car check for wear on the coolant return pipe as it can wear through as it rubs on the cooler fitting under engine movement. As a preventative measure you could cable-tie a bit of rubber pipe at the return. This pipe is not on all cars.

[[Image:return.jpg]]

==K Series Oil Filters==

These filters can be used with all K series engines.

#AC DELCO 93156323
#AC DELCO 25011520 (PF 53)
#AMSOIL SDF-57
#BECK/ARNLEY 0418988
#BOSCH 72150
#FRAM PH966B
#FRAM PH2870A
#FRAM PH3614
#K&N HP1002
#MANN 056 115 561G
#NAPA 1374
#PUROLATOR L10028
#PUROLATOR L10241 Metro 1.3L
#UNIPART GFE148
#WIX WL7142
#Mobil M1 102
#Champion B104
#Mahle OC237

==S2 111R and S2 Exige n/a Series Oil Filters==

The Toyota part numbers for oil filters are:

#90915-YZZJ2
#90915-10004
#90915-TA002
#TRD 00602-90915-006
#TRD 90915-SP010
#Mahle OC217

Some of the part numbers have changed but I believe these are valid. The TRD numbers are for Toyota Racing items, usually coloured red.

I ask for 90915-YZZJ2 at my local Toyota garage and it fits and works fine or ask for a filter to fit a Gen 6 Toyota Celica up to 2004. Or to fit the 2ZZ-GE Toyota engine.

Here is a list of cars that share the yota engine
[[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_ZZ_engine]]

To save all the hammering a screwdrive "issues". Get your self a KnN oil filter part HP-1002. It has a 25mm nut on the end you can use socket to get it on and off. Would seem to be a Sinclaires standard fit and my car was last serviced there etc.

== Honda conversion filters==

Cars with Honda conversions may need a specific type of filter. List can be found [[Oil_filters_for_Honda_conversion|HERE]]

[[Category:Engine]]
[[Category:Fluid]]
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S1]]
[[Category:S2]]