TechWiki - User contributions [en-gb]

Evora water ingress

2016-02-20T10:44:58Z

Junks: Created page with "Service bulletin number 2009/15 from 18-12-2009 called : TITLE: Water ingress; areas of attention. TITLE: Water ingress; areas of attention. REASON: To highlight potential so..."

Service bulletin number 2009/15 from 18-12-2009 called : TITLE: Water ingress; areas of attention.

TITLE: Water ingress; areas of attention.
REASON: To highlight potential sources of water ingress into the cabin and rear luggage compartment.
ACTION: If a complaint is received concerning water ingress on an Evora, some potential sources are described below:
1. Wetness of door sill trim
Water passing through the door shell, can weep from the rear underside of the door via the Scrivet fixing for the door trim panel. Remove and discard the Scrivet. Enlarge the hole to 10mm and use the following parts to secure the door panel:
Rawlnut, M5 A075W607
4. 1 per door
Setscrew, M5 A082W5185 1 per door
Washer, flat B082W4107 1 per door
See also S/B 2009/13
2. Water ingress into cabin rear quarter wells
An incomplete bond path at the junction of the roof panel/body side/rear bulkhead can result in water accumulation in the body side wells beneath the ECU/rear fusebox panel (LH) and woofer speaker (RH). Remove the rear quarter trim panels (Service Notes section VE.12) and release the roof lining rear fixings.
Taking appropriate precautions to avoid contaminating the roof lining, backfill the joint area between roof panel/body side/rear bulkhead using Betaseal 1701 and a spatula. Also seal over the two rear clamshell fixings at each side; one just beneath the quarter window, and one along the waistline via the bodyside access hole.
Drain
holes should also be provided for each body side well, behind the 'B' post, by using a flexible drill extension, or a long masonary bit to drill an 8 - 10mm diameter drain hole in the bottom of the deepest part of the well. Remove the seat belt reel if necessary for improved access. Seal the edges of the holes with touch-up (or black) paint.

3. Water ingress into driver's footwell
Check around steering
column gaiter at bulkhead. Seal using Betaseal 1701.
4. Water ingress into boot
Before water testing the boot area, first remove the boot latch cover, boot carpet and rear transom carpet to allow leak sites more readlily to be identified. Potential routes include:
-
Boot box flange height too low; This may result in incomplete or insufficient compression of the boot weatherstrip seal. To test, apply chalk dust or other suitable substance to provide a witness mark on the weatherstip, and close the tailgate. If incomplete contact is indicated, remove the boot latch striker plate, and elongate the fixing holes to allow further downward adjustment. Progressively lower the striker position until satisfactory sealing is attained.
After
adjustment, it may be necessary to raise the aerofoil to achieve alignment with the rear clamshell. Use additional gaskets A132U0306F between the aerofoil plinths and tailgate.
-
Insufficient drainage from gutter; Drain holes are provided at each rear corner of the tailgate aperture gutter. Check the length of the slot and if necessary, elongate to 25 mm along the vertical surface - Do not extend the horizontal dimension. Seal edges with touch-up (or black) paint.
-
Bonding between boot box and clamshell; Backfill from within the boot using Betaseal 1701 and a spatula. Remove the two ventilation outlet grilles from the tailgate aperture bottom corners, and from within each duct, backfill the bootbox joint with Betaseal and a spatula.
- Bonding between battery box and boot box; Backfill from inside box with Betaseal 1701.
-Wiring harness grommets; seal each grommet to the boot and the harness to the grommet using Betaseal 1701.
-All boot wall penetrating fixing holes, including pop rivets; Seal with Betaseal 1701.
-
Water test the joint line at each side between bumper and rear clamshell; This will test a manufacturing bonded joint in the clamshell. If attempts to seal this joint from the inside are unsuccessful, remove the rear bumper and seal from outside with Betaseal 1701.
- Engine access cover
in boot front wall; Seal joint with a suitable silicone product.
-Drill drain holes in the well at each side of the boot; one 8mm hole in each of the two channels in each well.

5. Water ingress into tailgate
If water is allowed entry between the inner and outer tailgate mouldings, it is likely to exit from the latch aperture into the boot. If this is found to occur, remove the tailgate from the car and take the following action:
-Tailgate glass bonding; backfill the glass to tailgate joint around the top and exposed sides of the screen using Betaseal 1701 or Sikaflex 521 transparent sealant dependent on vehicle body colour. Smooth the joint using a spatula for a neat appearance.
-Moulding joint path; backfill the top and sides of the jointline with Betaseal 1701 and smooth with a spatula for a neat appearance. To prevent water escaping into the boot, remove the tailgate trim pad with latch cover by pulling out from the fir-tree fasteners. Backfill the moulding joint line revealed.
-To allow any water build up in the tailgate to drain, drill an 8 mm hole in the bottom of the vertical surface above the latch (i.e. outside the weatherstrip landing path)

S2 Wheel Options

2015-07-30T11:07:08Z

Junks: /* Exige/Elise RGB Forged Wheels */

Alloy wheel weight is very important to the [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Unsprung_weight unsprung weight] of the car.

Stuck on what PCD or Centrebore means, [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wheel_sizing read here].

If you want different wheels then listed below, you don't need pcd converting wheel-spacers like [http://www.eliseparts.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=165&products_id=219 Hubcentric Wheel Adaptors.] as 4x100pcd is already relatively common.

What you need is simple wheel spacers in 4x100pcd, centre bore 56.6 to make the offset a little more common. These spacers would fit Vauxhall Corsa, Astra F&G, Tigra, Vectra + Opel Ascona and are therefore pretty easy to come by and quite cheap. [http://www.performancefx.net/wsvauxhall.htm example of cheap spacers]

To fit S2 Exige wheels or 111R wheels onto a K-engined Elise the fronts are the same, but the rears require 20mm each side spacers to correct the offset.

'''IF FITTING WIDER ALLOYS AND OR 'STICKY' TYRES PLEASE CONSIDER FITTING UPRATED TOELINKS'''

For more information See Thread: http://forums.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=102501

=K-series=

==Lotus/OEM==

===Rimstock 6-spoke===
{{ Infobox_Wheels |
| f_size = 16x5.5
| r_size = 17x7.5
| f_offset = ET31.5
| r_offset = ET18
| f_pcd = 4x100
| r_pcd = 4x100
| f_cbore = 56.6
| r_cbore = 56.6
| f_weight = 8.00kg
| r_weight = 10.52kg
| f_tyresize = 175/55R16
| r_tyresize = 225/45R17
| price = complete set inc VAT ???
| web =
| image = [[Image:elise2000silver.jpg|thumb|S2 OEM Wheel]]
| image2 =
| notes = OEM S2 wheels, also available in black.
Lotus Part Numbers:
Front in black: D117G0024H
Rear in black :D117G0025H
}}

===Rimstock 8-spoke===
{{ Infobox_Wheels |
| f_size = 16x5.5
| r_size = 17x7.5
| f_offset = ET31.5
| r_offset = ET18
| f_pcd = 4x100
| r_pcd = 4x100
| f_cbore = 56.6
| r_cbore = 56.6
| f_weight = 6.88kg
| r_weight = 9.50kg
| f_tyresize = 175/55R16
| r_tyresize = 225/45R17
| price = complete set inc VAT £920
| web =
| image = [[Image:Elise-Wheel-grey.jpg|thumb|S2 111S OEM Wheel]]
| image2 =
| notes = OEM S2 111S wheels, also available in black
}}

===OZ Racing===
{{ Infobox_Wheels |
| f_size = 16x6.5
| r_size = 17x7.5
| f_offset = ET31
| r_offset = ET18
| f_pcd = 4x100
| r_pcd = 4x100
| f_cbore = 56.6
| r_cbore = 56.6
| f_weight = 6.4
| r_weight = 9.6
| f_tyresize = 195/50R16
| r_tyresize = 225/45R17
| price = complete set inc VAT £999
| web =
| image = [[Image:Bls2g6006f.jpg|thumb|S2 135R OEM Wheel, Silver]]
| image2 = [[Image:Bls2g6003f.jpg|thumb|S2 135R OEM Wheel, Black]]
| notes = OEM S2 135R wheels, also available in black. Together with the A048 tyres, the OZ racing wheels give a wider than standard front wheel to improve the already legendary handling Elise (in black or silver).

There are many [[Tyres_for_OZ_Racing_Rims|tyre options for the OZ racing rim]]
}}

==Speedline==
===Turini===
{{ Infobox_Wheels |
| f_size = 16x7
| r_size = 17x8
| f_offset = ET31
| r_offset = ET18
| f_pcd = 4x100
| r_pcd = 4x100
| f_cbore = 56.6
| r_cbore = 56.6
| f_weight = 8.5
| r_weight = 9
| f_tyresize = 195/50R16
| r_tyresize = 225/45R17
| price = complete set inc VAT £799 (est)
| web =
| image = [[Image:Tunini.JPG|thumb]]
| image2 =
| notes = May be manufactured in 2007
}}

==Rimstock==
===Team Dynamics Pro Race 1.2S===
{{ Infobox_Wheels |
| f_size = 16x7
| r_size = 17x8
| f_offset = ET30
| r_offset = ET20
| f_pcd = 4x100
| r_pcd = 4x100
| f_cbore = 56.6
| r_cbore = 56.6
| f_weight = 8 kg
| r_weight = 9.9 kg
| f_tyresize = 195/50R16 or 205/45R16
| r_tyresize = 225/45R17 or 235/40R17
| price = complete set inc VAT £559 (with Seloc discount) from Demon Tweeks or with Lotus wheel centres from Hangar 111
| web = http://www.hangar111.com/ckshop.php?item=769&ret=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.hangar111.com%2Fckshop.php%3Fpage%3D1%26keyword%3Dteam%2Bdynamics
| image = [[Image:prorace.JPG|thumb]]
| image2 =
| notes = Also available in black, matt black, gold, grey and white.
}}

==Komo-Tec==
===KT-Track===
{{ Infobox_Wheels |
| f_size = 16x7
| r_size = 17x8
| f_offset = ET30
| r_offset = ET25
| f_pcd = 4x100
| r_pcd = 4x100
| f_cbore = 56.6
| r_cbore = 56.6
| f_weight = 6.83kg
| r_weight = 9.20kg
| f_tyresize = 195/50R16
| r_tyresize = 225/45R17
| price = complete set inc VAT £1295
| web = http://www.komo-tec.com/product_info.php/products_id/414
| image = [[Image:kttrack.jpg|thumb]]
| image2 =
| notes = Rebadge of the Japanese Works Emotion CR wheels at double the price www.hubspace.net
}}

==Compomotive==
===MO===
{{ Infobox_Wheels |
| f_size = 16x7
| r_size = 17x8
| f_offset = ET35
| r_offset = ET15
| f_pcd = 4x100
| r_pcd = 4x100
| f_cbore = 56.6
| r_cbore = 56.6
| f_weight =
| r_weight =
| f_tyresize = 195/50R16
| r_tyresize = 225/45R17
| price = complete set inv VAT £780
| web = http://www.sandtler.de/katalogangebote/felgen/felgen/compomotive/felgen_htm/felge_mo.htm
| image = [[Image:Front_comp_small.jpg|thumb]]
| image2 = [[Image:Rear_comp_small.jpg|thumb]]
| notes = Front Wheel MO1671 16x7 ET35 (needs 5mm spacer)
}}

==SJ Racing==
===SJ Racing Leggero===
{{ Infobox_Wheels |
| f_size = 16x7
| r_size = 17x8
| f_offset = ET32
| r_offset = ET15
| f_pcd = 4x100
| r_pcd = 4x100
| f_cbore = 56.6
| r_cbore = 56.6
| f_weight = 5.74 kg
| r_weight = 7.98 kg
| f_tyresize = 195/50R16, 205/50R16, 205/45R16, 225/45R16
| r_tyresize = 225/45R17, 245/40R17
| price = £2500 + VAT per set from Stark Automotive
| web = http://www.stark-automotive.co.uk/shop.html
| image = [[Image:sjr_black.jpg|thumb]]
| image2 = [[Image:sjr_silver.jpg|thumb]]
| notes = Available in black and silver. Also available from Sector 111 but maybe only in Toyota sizes?
}}

=Toyota=
==Lotus/OEM==
===Rimstock===
{{ Infobox_Wheels |
| f_size = 16x5.5
| r_size = 17x7.5
| f_offset = ET31
| r_offset = ET38
| f_pcd = 4x100
| r_pcd = 4x100
| f_cbore = 56.6
| r_cbore = 56.6
| f_weight = 6.88
| r_weight = 9.50
| f_tyresize = 175/55R16
| r_tyresize = 225/45R17
| price = Retail inc VAT £ 920
| web =
| image = [[Image:111rwheel.jpg|thumb|OEM 111R wheel]]
| image2 =
| notes =
}}

===Forged Alloy Wheel===
{{ Infobox_Wheels |
| f_size =
| r_size =
| f_offset =ET31
| r_offset =ET38
| f_pcd =4x100
| r_pcd =4x100
| f_cbore =56.6
| r_cbore =56.6
| f_weight =5.95kg
| r_weight =7kg
| f_tyresize = 195/50/16
| r_tyresize = 225/45R17
| price = Retail inc VAT £1,682.60
| web =http://www.hangar111.com/ckshop.php?item=723&ret=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.hangar111.com%2Fckshop.php%3Fpage%3D1%26category%3D73
| image = [[Image:111rforge.jpg|thumb]]
| image2 =
| notes = Silver Anodised or Silver Painted
Lotus Part numbers:

Painted Front:A117G0124H

Painted Rear:A120G0019H

Anodised Front:A121G0013H

Anodised Rear:A121G0015H
}}

===Exige Y-type spider===
{{ Infobox_Wheels |
| f_size = 16x6.5
| r_size = 17x7.5
| f_offset = ET31
| r_offset = ET38
| f_pcd = 4x100
| r_pcd = 4x100
| f_cbore = 56.6
| r_cbore = 56.6
| f_weight = 8.8
| r_weight = 9.8
| f_tyresize = 195/50R16
| r_tyresize = 225/45R17
| price = Retail inc VAT £ 950
| web =
| image = [[Image:exigewheels.jpeg|thumb]]
| image2 =
| notes = When fitting to K-series car use 20 to 25mm spacer, also available in silver
}}

===Volk Racing TE37 Forged 1 piece wheel===
{{ Infobox_Wheels |
| f_size = 7 x 16
| r_size = 7.5 x 17
| f_offset = +33
| r_offset = +40
| f_pcd = 4 x 100
| r_pcd = 4 x 100
| f_cbore = 65
| r_cbore = 65
| f_weight = 5.17kg
| r_weight = 7.00kg
| f_tyresize = 205/45R16
| r_tyresize = 225/45R17
| price = £1504 inc vat
| web = [http://www.coordsport.com]
| image = [[Image:VolkTE37.jpg|thumb]]
| image2 =
| notes = Available in Bronze and White

Silver available for an additional £94.00

Centre caps - optional extra
}}

===240R 5-spoke===
{{ Infobox_Wheels |
| f_size = 16x7
| r_size = 17x8
| f_offset = 31
| r_offset = 38
| f_pcd = 4x100
| r_pcd = 4x100
| f_cbore = 56.6
| r_cbore = 56.6
| f_weight = 6.1
| r_weight = 8.1
| f_tyresize = 190/580 16
| r_tyresize = 230/625 17
| price = £1869 a set inc VAT
| web =
| image = [[Image:240r.jpg|thumb]]
| image2 =
| notes = OEM 240R wheels, also available in silver.
Lotus Part numbers:

ALS3G6014F Front Wheel 5-spoke, 7.0x16, HP silver

ALS3G6007F Front Wheel 5-spoke, 7.0x16, black

ALS3G6019F Rear Wheel 5-spoke, 8.0x17, HP silver

ALS3G6008F Rear Wheel 5-spoke, 8.0x17, black

ALS3G6013F Wheel Centre Cover, with Lotus Logo - for 5-spoke wheels
}}

===Volk Racing RE30 Forged 1 piece wheel===
{{ Infobox_Wheels |
| f_size = 7 x 16
| r_size = 7.5 x 17
| f_offset = +33
| r_offset = 33-43
| f_pcd = 4 x 100
| r_pcd = 4 x 100
| f_cbore = 65
| r_cbore = 65
| f_weight = 5.82kg
| r_weight = 7.88kg
| f_tyresize = 205/45R16
| r_tyresize = 225/45R17
| price = £1527.50 inc vat
| web = [http://www.coordsport.com]
| image = [[Image:RE30 large.jpg|thumb]]
| image2 =
| notes = 30% stronger than CE28N forged wheel

Available in Bronze and Chrome Silver

Mercury Silver & the NEW Formula Silver available for an additional £94.00

Centre caps - optional extra
}}

===Exige/Elise RGB Forged Wheels===
{{ Infobox_Wheels |
| f_size = 16x6.0
| r_size = 17x8.0
| f_offset = ET??
| r_offset = ET??
| f_pcd = 4x100
| r_pcd = 4x100
| f_cbore = 56.6
| r_cbore = 56.6
| f_weight = 6.4
| r_weight = 8.8
| f_tyresize = 205/45R16
| r_tyresize = 225/45R17
| price = Retail inc VAT around 3800€ / £2700 before SELOC discount
| web = [http://wiki.seloc.org/images/6/6b/]
| image = [[Image:6juj.jpg|thumb]]
| image2 =
| notes = data by Donnie & Grinnders
}}

=Other sources of information=

[http://www.hubert.racegame.org/wheels.html Hubspace.net] (link broken)

[[Category:Wheels and tyres]]
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S2]]

How to Rebuild a Brembo Caliper

2012-08-24T21:55:27Z

Junks:

Lotus Elise Rear Caliper Rebuild and Upgrade

This article originally contributed by 40mmBrakes ( http://40mmbrakes.auto.officelive.com/default.aspx )
===Pre-Warning===

'''Before you start taking things apart, first ensure that your calipers are servicable.'''
First make sure that you can remove the tiny grub screw that you can see in this photo. It needs a 4.5mm allen key which is a fairly unusual size.

[[Image:grubscrew.JPG]]

Unfortunately the grub screw sits deeply recesed in the boss of the caliper by 10-12mm. By the time your calipers reach an age where they would befefit from new seals, the thread in the boss has become so corroded that it's nigh-on impossible to remove the grub screw.

A no-harm solution is to fill the cavity with penetrating oil and come back tomorrow. The screw is in tight because the tapered end acts as a fluid seal; there is brake fluid on the opposite side. Once it breaks loose, it may not be that difficult to remove.

A brute force solution is to take an angle grinder to the boss and remove the excess material. Cut the boss flush with the top of the grub screw. The heat generated by this also helps to free up the screw.

The other part to check is the 13mm bolt that holds the handbrake arm to the caliper. Make sure that this loosens as it has a tendency to go soft and shear off. In any case you should not expect the internals of the caliper to support the torque needed to loosen the bolt! The small parts that are engaged with parking brake actuation are not strong enough to resist the torque of a stuck bolt. You should put the handbrake arm (only) in a vise and unscrew the bolt so that the resistance torque is only applied to the arm.

Bear in mind that it's a straightforward job to refurb the sliders but examine your calipers carefully before attempting to replace the piston seals.

===Repair===

The service manual claims the [[Brembo Caliper]]s fitted to the rear [[brakes]] of the Elise are not fully serviceable.

These instructions were developed by disassembling and reassembling many calipers and are not perfect.

The Lotus Elise rear caliper is sometimes criticised as being too small. The rear caliper can be machined to accept a 38mm or even a 40mm piston and sleeve.

For the 38mm piston, you will need a Brembo 38mm seal, part number 05.5955.57

For the 40mm piston, you will need a Brembo 40mm seal, part number 05.5955.58

This conversion still allows the use of all the other standard size parts that come in the KC-83017 kit.

[[Image:Brembo_Caliper_6.JPG]]

== Procedure ==
=== Disassembly ===

[[Image:Brembo_Caliper_7.JPG]]

Unscrew piston as far as it will go using either a windback tool or stout needle nose pliers, one tip in each hole. Push in and rotate counter clockwise.

[[Image:Brembo_Caliper_8.JPG]]

As the dust boot stretches, pull it out of the groove.
The piston can be pried out with two screwdrivers. An internal snap ring holds it tightly, so be prepared to try a few times and apply some effort. Before it pops, it will feel “springy.” When the snap ring does pop, the piston will go flying, so put a rag over it to keep it from falling. You can use a socket on each side to support the screwdriver.

[[Image:Brembo_Caliper_9.JPG]]

Here’s the prying position (without the dust boot and rag). From this image you can get a perspective of how far up the piston will rise without coming out. The piston can also be removed with air pressure into the brake line supply inlet.

[[Image:Brembo_Caliper_10.JPG]]

Once the piston is out, do not turn the caliper over. There are several loose pieces inside that may fall out.

[[Image:Brembo_Caliper_11.JPG]]

NB Only follow the following procedure if you have access to a new screw as 80% of the time they shear off & are not available to buy separately. You can get the whole assembly with the snap-ring out of the bore with some curved tools (eg. bend a screwdriver ) so it comes out as 1 piece. (Courtesy of Arno)

Remove the dust boot.
With a 4mm allen key, remove the screw. This screw has an O-ring around the head, so do not reach in and use pliers. It is also held in with thread lock glue, so it feels a little stuck before it comes loose. It may also drag the whole way out. Use the proper allen key, since the metal is soft and you’ll easily round the hole.

[[Image:Brembo_Caliper_12.JPG]]

After the screw is removed, the threaded disc can be unscrewed and removed. This disc pushes on the inside of the piston when pulling on the parking brake.

[[Image:Brembo_Caliper_13.JPG]]

Without the disc, a ball bearing race, a snap ring, and two washers will be visible in the bore. Turn the caliper over to remove them.

[[Image:Brembo_Caliper_14.JPG]]

Here’s what will fall out:-

Ball bearing

Flat washer

Wave washer

Snap ring

[[Image:Brembo_Caliper_15.JPG]]

Removing the worm thread shaft is next.
Look down into the bore for the internal snap ring. It has several tabs bent to point up at you. With a flat screwdriver, pry the tabs at the ends of the snap ring towards the center of the bore and disengage it from the groove in the wall.

[[Image:Brembo_Caliper_16.JPG]]

Now the worm shaft (and snap ring) can be removed. Notice the tabs.

[[Image:Brembo_Caliper_17.JPG]]

Unscrew the hex stop peg in the boss of the caliper. You will need a 4.5mm allen key which is an uncommon size.

[[Image:Brembo_Caliper_18.JPG]]

Remove the parking brake lever, parking brake shaft dust seal, and push the shaft into the caliper body.
The flat washer tends to stick in the caliper, be sure not to miss it.

[[Image:Brembo_Caliper_19.JPG]]

Remove the ball bearing drive plate, the needle bearing, and the flat washer.
Remove the old piston seal.

=== Reassembly ===

[[Image:Brembo_Caliper_20.JPG]]

Install a new parking brake drive plate shaft O-ring, if needed.
Reinstall the flat washer, needle bearing, and ball bearing drive plate of the parking brake in the caliper body. Make note of where the three ball bearings are; you will need to mate them with the driven plate later.

[[Image:Brembo_Caliper_21.JPG]]

The internal assembly will go back together in this order:-

Wave washer

Flat washer

Ball bearing

Cone screw

Use some thread lock on the O-ringed screw on reassembly.
Install a new O-ring on the screw.

[[Image:Brembo_Caliper_22.JPG]]

To reassemble the caliper, insert assembly into the piston and snap the {coat-hanger quality) internal snap ring into the piston.

[[Image:Brembo_Caliper_23.JPG]]

The snap ring groove is just inside the piston.

[[Image:Brembo_Caliper_24.JPG]]

Take the internal snap ring with the tabs, point the tabs downward, and use the tabs to clip the snap ring into the bottom
edge of the piston.

[[Image:Brembo_Caliper_25.JPG]]

Then screw the worm shaft into the piston as far as it will go.
Install the new piston seal.

[[Image:Brembo_Caliper_26.JPG]]

Stretch the new dust boot over the bottom of the assembled piston, leaving the lower edge of the boot to hang down. You will have to hold the piston over the bore and insert the boot lip into the groove all the way around before inserting the piston into the bore. The boot should look even (no bumps) if done properly.
Make note of where the ball bearing detents are.

[[Image:Brembo_Caliper_27.JPG]]

This is the tricky part. With the boot in the groove, centre the piston to begin pushing it into the bore. Use a c-clamp with a socket covering the parking brake shaft sticking out the bottom, making sure the clamp is pushing the piston straight down. Besides the normal problem of getting past the boot lip and the seal, the driven plate detents and the drive plate ball bearings must mate, otherwise you will not be able to push the piston down far enough for the internal snap ring to find it’s groove.
If the clamp seems to come to a stop and you have not heard the snap ring snap into place, try to rotate the clamp to rotate the piston and line up the ball bearing detents.
A second way is to temporarily attach the parking brake lever under the clamp to rotate the lever, which will move the drive ball bearings back and forth to line everything up.
Rotate the lever clockwise when facing the lever, as this also screws the threaded shaft into the cone shaped washer (ensuring that the piston is not bottoming on the parking brake adjustment.)
In any case, the piston will seem to be very low, lower than the dust boot wrinkles, before the snap ring engages. If the snap ring does not engage, the parking brake system has nothing to push on to “disengage.”

Hint 1: A G-clamp may not provide sufficient force to engage the snap ring. It may take 2-3 tons of pressure on a bench press before you hear the snap ring click into position.

Hint 2: Sometimes you can't push on the brake lever arm with the C-clamp to insert piston, you need to take off the arm and push on casting using socket.

Hint 3: Tons of force may not really be necessary. There are two ways to do it even without a G-clamp. The first way is to wind in the worm shaft in to compress the spring - if you're lucky there will be enough friction to hold the spring compressed. Listen whilst you reassemble it in case it comes un-sprung. If it stays sprung, you should be able to get the snap ring to snap by hand pressure on the piston. Alternatively, mount the caliper in a vice. Using a pair of circlip pliers or whatever tool you use to retract the piston, wind the piston clockwise while at the same time applying a reasonable amount of pressure to drive the piston into the caliper. You should hear the circlip click in place.

When the snap ring engages, reinstall the hex head stop peg.
Using the parking brake lever, rotate the parking brake shaft while looking down into the stop peg boss. You will see the detent in the foot of the worm shaft. Screw in the stop peg so it engages the detent.
You can check the proper operation by now rotating the parking brake lever again (which will push the piston out) and then rotating the opposite direction (which should slightly pull the piston back in.) With larger swings of the lever, this becomes a ratcheting action, so repeated back and forth with the lever will eventually move the piston further and further out; if the snap ring is engaged properly, the piston will slightly retract after each lever movement.

[[Image:Brembo_Caliper_28.JPG]]
[[Image:Brembo_Caliper_29.JPG]]

Once installed, the new 38mm calipers look exactly like the standard system.

Notes:
The brakes usually have to bled twice. It seems that air is trapped in the piston (the recess for the threaded parking brake adjustment rod) that isn’t flushed out during caliper installation.
The O-ring screw is a 10-32 thread. About 10% of the time it breaks when trying to remove it.

[[Category:Brakes]]
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S1]]
[[Category:S2]]