TechWiki - User contributions [en-gb]

Seloc International Rescue

2013-10-09T19:08:31Z

Sdio: /* Mainland Europe */

SELOC INTERNATIONAL RESCUE

Listing of Rescue Rangers willing to help selocers in distress
please feel free to add, subtract or amend your entry

==United Kingdom==
{| class="wikitable"
| Area
| Member Name
| Notes
|-
| Swindon Area
| APRETEXT
| Always happy to help anyone who breaks down around the Swindon area.<br />
Although my help tends to be limited to a few kind words, a quizzical look, and the lending of my tools. And a cup of tea.
|-
| Essex
| TONYR
| We have a reasonably private parking area at home and a good engineer on call in Essex, altough I must warn him of this should it come to fruition!!!
|-
| Bedfordshire
| JONATHANMILLER
| Happy to help anyone stuck at the Autodrome in Bedford.
|-

| Bedfordshire
| MGH74
| Happy to help anyone in NorthBeds/Northants
|-
| South West (Falmouth & Padstow, Cornwall)
| LECHIFFRE
| I would stress that I know fcuk all about anything mechanical but fortunately know a few people who do.
|-
| Jersey
| LAWRENCE5
| I'll take Jersey. ... that said you can walk the entire island in a day
|-
| Gloucestershire
| MISH
| Happy to help anyone who gets stuck in Gloucestershire
|-
| Ammanford, Wales
| V4FRP
| I can provide translation services for those stuck in the west of Wales, tea, tools of dubious quality and parking space for another wreck in amongst my own wrecks.
|-
| Bristol
| THE_LAD
| Happy to help anyone near me, lifts to/from Williams sports cars etc back to civilisation bus stop or town
|-
| North Lincolnshire (Grimsby)
| ARISUTEA
| Quite happy to hit someones broken car with a spanner in/around the grubby Northern part of Lincolnshire. Can't guarantee I'll make it work again, but I'll try. Although why the hell you'd be coming here is beyond me (unless going to Cadwell or Blyton, then you are excused).
|-
| Sittingbourne, Kent
| ELISEMAN
|North kent area. Loan of tools, spannering and easy repairs to see you on your way, tea/biscuits and a shoulder to cry on. If you are really stuck I can offer over night secure storage of car/belongings.
|-
| Cornwall (Helston)
| DONKSTER
| Sounds like a great idea. I'd be happy to help out if needed, that's another one for deepest darkest south west...
|-
| Chelmsford Essex
| SMARTBEAR
| I have a fairly spacious drive that seloc'ers could abandon their wreckage on.
I promise I won't remove anything (much) from your car.

|-
| Colchester, Essex
| PETESNAP
| I know sod all about cars, but I can offer a sympathetic ear and a lift to a petrol station/garage if needed.
|-

|-
| Cornwall
| TURNAMERE
| I can offer up a little practical nouse, decent selection of well used tools, room for a Lotus on my drive if required along with Paramedic and helicopter winch rescue services for the more extreme emergencies.
|-
| Knutsford Cheshire
| BROOKE BOND
| Tea, Tools, driveway & poss trailer access, south Manchester , Cheshire patch
|-
| Newquay Cornwall
| GINGER S1
| Happy to help out in Newquay/Cornwall area, have spare bedroom too
|-
| Southampton area
| TRIGGER
| F*ck am I helping you twonks !! ..LOL ......
|-
|-
| Oxfordshire / Warwickshire
| MRRIGMA
| Happy to assist if I can, have tools and know a few bits and bobs.
|-
| Northern Ireland
| The Persian
| Happy to help anyone stuck, Warm garage and tools, plenty of space for cars & driver/passengers.
|-
| Durham/ Newcastle
| JTBush
| Loads of tools, inspection pit for work under car and a kettle
|-
|-
| East Yorkshire
| seriouslylotus
| Loads of tools, Lots of parts, flat bed trailer, recovery truck with winch (I hope you don't need the winch!!)
|-

|  
|  
|  
|}

==Mainland Europe==
{| class="wikitable"
| Area
| Member Name
| Notes
|-
| North of the Netherlands<br>
North west border region of Germany
| MARTEN
| I have a trailer with winch, a fully equipped workshop and many spare parts as I'm professionally working on Elise's
|-
| Belgium (Francorchamps to Brussels)
| THIVA
| I live close to the Zolder circuit and might also be able to help people on their way from Francorchamps to Brussels.
|-
| Lundberg Uppsala Sweden
| CAT7 EVEN
| I´d be more than happy to assist any selocer who dares to travel North.
|-
| NRW Area, Germany
| TAZ
| I can ridicule anyone who breaks down in NRW area and post pictures of their misfortune.
|-
| Nice / Cap D'Ail / Monaco / Menton
| BURT
| Happy to help out in Nice / Cap D'Ail / Monaco / Menton area of southern france... even have a freindly French/Canadian mechanic next door that looks after my Loti!!
|-
| Nice / Cap D'Ail / Monaco / Menton
| SDIO
| Willing to help if I can (plenty of tools but no garage to do the work).
|-
| Tilburg (NL), Eindhoven (NL), Venlo (NL), MonchenGladbach (D) Maastricht (NL), Hasselt (B)
| CAPO
| I can Help in the South of the Netherlands, North of Belgium, part of Germany. Have tools, have some spare parts (brakepads, driveshafts, softtop, softtop bows, etc), have a dry garage without a lift but with decent stands, etc. and have a couple of companies close by that have most of the parts on stock like starter, alternator, etc.
|-
| Bremen, Germany
| PORKER
| I could cover off support for 100km radius around Bremen Germany. But I know [Censored] all about mechanical stuff. So basically tea and translation services.
|-
| Munich area, Germany
| KORBI
| Happy to help anybody out who needs a proper look onto the car, repairs (every tool you'll need for an Elise), recovery or just a cuppa or a cold beer. SWMBO may sleep in my bed err...flat too, but I'm happy to take you to a hostel though. Munich area and south of it (say, until passo Rombo)

|  
|  
|  
|}

[[Category:Reference]]

Seloc International Rescue

2013-10-09T19:03:38Z

Sdio: /* Mainland Europe */

SELOC INTERNATIONAL RESCUE

Listing of Rescue Rangers willing to help selocers in distress
please feel free to add, subtract or amend your entry

==United Kingdom==
{| class="wikitable"
| Area
| Member Name
| Notes
|-
| Swindon Area
| APRETEXT
| Always happy to help anyone who breaks down around the Swindon area.<br />
Although my help tends to be limited to a few kind words, a quizzical look, and the lending of my tools. And a cup of tea.
|-
| Essex
| TONYR
| We have a reasonably private parking area at home and a good engineer on call in Essex, altough I must warn him of this should it come to fruition!!!
|-
| Bedfordshire
| JONATHANMILLER
| Happy to help anyone stuck at the Autodrome in Bedford.
|-

| Bedfordshire
| MGH74
| Happy to help anyone in NorthBeds/Northants
|-
| South West (Falmouth & Padstow, Cornwall)
| LECHIFFRE
| I would stress that I know fcuk all about anything mechanical but fortunately know a few people who do.
|-
| Jersey
| LAWRENCE5
| I'll take Jersey. ... that said you can walk the entire island in a day
|-
| Gloucestershire
| MISH
| Happy to help anyone who gets stuck in Gloucestershire
|-
| Ammanford, Wales
| V4FRP
| I can provide translation services for those stuck in the west of Wales, tea, tools of dubious quality and parking space for another wreck in amongst my own wrecks.
|-
| Bristol
| THE_LAD
| Happy to help anyone near me, lifts to/from Williams sports cars etc back to civilisation bus stop or town
|-
| North Lincolnshire (Grimsby)
| ARISUTEA
| Quite happy to hit someones broken car with a spanner in/around the grubby Northern part of Lincolnshire. Can't guarantee I'll make it work again, but I'll try. Although why the hell you'd be coming here is beyond me (unless going to Cadwell or Blyton, then you are excused).
|-
| Sittingbourne, Kent
| ELISEMAN
|North kent area. Loan of tools, spannering and easy repairs to see you on your way, tea/biscuits and a shoulder to cry on. If you are really stuck I can offer over night secure storage of car/belongings.
|-
| Cornwall (Helston)
| DONKSTER
| Sounds like a great idea. I'd be happy to help out if needed, that's another one for deepest darkest south west...
|-
| Chelmsford Essex
| SMARTBEAR
| I have a fairly spacious drive that seloc'ers could abandon their wreckage on.
I promise I won't remove anything (much) from your car.

|-
| Colchester, Essex
| PETESNAP
| I know sod all about cars, but I can offer a sympathetic ear and a lift to a petrol station/garage if needed.
|-

|-
| Cornwall
| TURNAMERE
| I can offer up a little practical nouse, decent selection of well used tools, room for a Lotus on my drive if required along with Paramedic and helicopter winch rescue services for the more extreme emergencies.
|-
| Knutsford Cheshire
| BROOKE BOND
| Tea, Tools, driveway & poss trailer access, south Manchester , Cheshire patch
|-
| Newquay Cornwall
| GINGER S1
| Happy to help out in Newquay/Cornwall area, have spare bedroom too
|-
| Southampton area
| TRIGGER
| F*ck am I helping you twonks !! ..LOL ......
|-
|-
| Oxfordshire / Warwickshire
| MRRIGMA
| Happy to assist if I can, have tools and know a few bits and bobs.
|-
| Northern Ireland
| The Persian
| Happy to help anyone stuck, Warm garage and tools, plenty of space for cars & driver/passengers.
|-
| Durham/ Newcastle
| JTBush
| Loads of tools, inspection pit for work under car and a kettle
|-
|-
| East Yorkshire
| seriouslylotus
| Loads of tools, Lots of parts, flat bed trailer, recovery truck with winch (I hope you don't need the winch!!)
|-

|  
|  
|  
|}

==Mainland Europe==
{| class="wikitable"
| Area
| Member Name
| Notes
|-
| North of the Netherlands<br>
North west border region of Germany
| MARTEN
| I have a trailer with winch, a fully equipped workshop and many spare parts as I'm professionally working on Elise's
|-
| Belgium (Francorchamps to Brussels)
| THIVA
| I live close to the Zolder circuit and might also be able to help people on their way from Francorchamps to Brussels.
|-
| Lundberg Uppsala Sweden
| CAT7 EVEN
| I´d be more than happy to assist any selocer who dares to travel North.
|-
| NRW Area, Germany
| TAZ
| I can ridicule anyone who breaks down in NRW area and post pictures of their misfortune.
|-
| Nice / Cap D'Ail / Monaco / Menton
| BURT
| Happy to help out in Nice / Cap D'Ail / Monaco / Menton area of southern france... even have a freindly French/Canadian mechanic next door that looks after my Loti!!
| SDIO
| Willing to help if I can (plenty of tools but no garage to do the work)
|-
| Tilburg (NL), Eindhoven (NL), Venlo (NL), MonchenGladbach (D) Maastricht (NL), Hasselt (B)
| CAPO
| I can Help in the South of the Netherlands, North of Belgium, part of Germany. Have tools, have some spare parts (brakepads, driveshafts, softtop, softtop bows, etc), have a dry garage without a lift but with decent stands, etc. and have a couple of companies close by that have most of the parts on stock like starter, alternator, etc.
|-
| Bremen, Germany
| PORKER
| I could cover off support for 100km radius around Bremen Germany. But I know [Censored] all about mechanical stuff. So basically tea and translation services.
|-
| Munich area, Germany
| KORBI
| Happy to help anybody out who needs a proper look onto the car, repairs (every tool you'll need for an Elise), recovery or just a cuppa or a cold beer. SWMBO may sleep in my bed err...flat too, but I'm happy to take you to a hostel though. Munich area and south of it (say, until passo Rombo)

|  
|  
|  
|}

[[Category:Reference]]

Children

2013-09-01T08:30:57Z

Sdio:

[[Category:Lotus Elise]] [[Category:S1]] [[Category:S2]] [[Category:Lotus Europa]] [[Category: Safety]]
==== Children in a Lotus ====

Having a kid does not necessary mean the end of Lotus ownership. Many owners have kids and regularly take them out in the Lotus.

There are many makes of seats for all ages that fit the Elise, although none of the factory fitted seats have IsoFix fitments so child seats must be belt fitted.

There's a vast choice of child seats available and also a lot of variations in the Elise seat design/padding over the years the car has been manufactured - so try before you buy.

==== Child Seat Safety Law ====
Whatever you buy make sure it complies with the up-to-date Child Seat Safety Law
http://www.thinkroadsafety.gov.uk/campaigns/childcarseats/childcarseats.htm

==== Child Seat Types ====
http://www.childcarseats.org.uk/types/index.htm

The following seats have been found to fit various Elise/Exige seats and provide a good starting point for the test fitting trip to Halfords or Mothercare.

==== Baby Seats - Group 0 (-9 months) ====
*Maxicosi Cabrio
*Brittax rockatot
*Mamas and Papas Primo Viaggio SIP (without base)
*Jane Travel System car seat - group 0+ ( to 13kg, -18 months)
[[Image:P1030003.JPG]]
Jane Travel System car seat

==== Child Seats Group 1 (9 months - 4 years) ====
*Maxicosi Priory (Note, not S2 Exige Touring with probax, seat very wobbly)
*Britax Duo
*Britax Prince (S1 Exige with motorsport seats)
*Maxicosi Tobi (Fits S2 Exige Touring with probax superbly) 2009 model fits VX220 with cloth seats "better than any seat/car combo" the shop folks have ever seen
*Mama and Papas Pro-Tec (Fits brilliantly in an S1 with cloth seats)
*Romer - Eclipse (Fits a standard S1 seat nicely).
==== Child Booster Seats Group 2 & 3 (4 years - 11 years)====
*Britax Hi-Liner
*Halfords Michelangelo

==== Push Chair/Buggies ====
You can even get a push chair to fit in the boot of the Elise!

'''Quinny Zapp'''

The Quinny Zapp is used by a few owners, and it can also take the Maxicosi Cabrio seat. The Zapp is a tried and tested fit in the boot of an S2 Exige S too, without even removing the wheels (the pushchair's, not the car's!)

[[Image:QuinnyIn.JPG]][[Image:QuinnyOut.JPG]]

'''Petite Star Zia'''

The Petite Star Zia is a similar design and fits in the boot of an Elise S2. It also reclines and has a basket underneath, and has a slight price advantage.

[[Image:ZiaInS2.jpg]]

'''Quinny Yezz'''

A new kid on the block, The Quinny Yezz, even smaller than the Zapp!!

I was given one by Quinny as a fathers day present to review in a mans point of view, obviously I tried it in my S1 boot, it fitted with ease and with room to spare. It even fits in the passenger side footwell.

[http://www.lexiconpr.net/dorel/steveyezzreview2.pdf]

[[Image:yezzandlotus.jpg]]
[[Image:Yezzinboot.jpg]]

Bleed the brakes

2011-09-08T12:53:59Z

Sdio: /* S1 and non-ABS S2 */

[[Image:Brake_bleeder.jpg|thumb|left|Brake bleeder with reservoir]]
If air gets trapped inside the [[brake hoses]] a softer brake pedal is felt. The [[brakes]] need to be bled and the air removed from the system. This procedure is relatively simple, being made much easier with a specialist bleeder.

If you have air in the system (eg. when changing brake hoses) then you'll pretty much always need to mess around with the front callipers to get it all out as the design of them traps the air in the inner piston.

If it's just for flushing the system with new fluid (no air in the system) then it's pretty straightforward and you don't have to mess about with the callipers.

It helps a lot if you have spanners with a 'bend' at the end, like an open ring-spanner to keep the brake hose itself in place as you tighten the connector on the car side using a normal, but thin spanner.

On my (early) S2 there was enough space. On a VX220 I needed to dremel the hole above the connector a little to get enough clearance.

== Procedure ==
=== Flushing system ===

If no bubbles are in the system and you just want to refresh the brake fluid, you can either connect a pressure bleeder or bleed manually.

Order; OSR, NSR, OSF, NSF. Wheels off for the rears, but can do it through the spokes at the front.

Manually: For each calliper in turn, pump the brake pedal until it is solid then maintain the pressure whilst the other person puts a non-return valve on the brake nipple and releases it (11 mm spanner) until the pedal hits the deck.

Pressure bleeder: Fill bleeder with brake fluid, connect to reservoir, pressurise bleeder. One by one open bleed valves on calipers until fluid runs clear.

=== Changing brake hoses ===
When changing brake hoses or if you have air in the system a possible approach that can save loads of time or troubleshooting when bleeding is this:

- Before changing the hoses, remove the brake pads and fit very worn/old pads (or some strips of steel or wood) in their place

- Press the brake pedal a few times to extend the brake pistons in the calipers (the old pads or wedge are there to keep them from popping out completely!)

- Now disconnect an old brake hose from the car

- Disconnect the old hose from the calliper

- Connect the new hose to the calliper and tighten up

- Have a helper keep the open hose end up as high as possible

- Gently push back the piston in the calliper (hand/finger pressure for the fronts, screw back the rear) until brake fluid just comes out the open hose end

- Now connect the hose to the fixed line on the car and tighten connection

=== Bleeding rear callipers ===

For the rear callipers the rest of the procedure is:

- Pressurise bleeder

- Tap on the new brake hose and calliper with a plastic/wood hammer to dislodge trapped bubbles

- Open the bleed valve and screw the piston back completely

- Bleed it a little more normally and check if any more air bubbles comes out

Once it's clear, close the bleed valve, refit pads and check pedal hardness after pumping a few times to seat the pads. Should be solid.

=== Bleeding front callipers===
==== S1 and non-ABS S2 ====

For the front brakes there are two ways to get rid of the small amount of air in the hose once it is re-connected to the car.

On an S1 and older S2 without ABS you can pump the brake pedal until the pistons come out (as if the pads where worn), attention DO NOT push them to much and get them out of the calipers!

Now open the bleeding nipple and compress the pistons with the flexible hose first while rotating and gently tapping the caliper in order to guide any air bubbles towards the other piston with the bleeding nipple. Push the piston in completely.

Now push the other piston with the bleeding nipple fully in.
This will force any air bubbles out.

Now put the calipers and pads back in place and bleed once more.

Test for pedal firmness.

If this worked then continue with the next caliper.

==== ABS equipped S2 or spongy pedal ====

On more recent cars with ABS, or if you still can't get a firm pedal after the first try then there's still air in this circuit somewhere and you need to bleed it the traditional way.

The approach here is a bit cumbersome because of the design of the callipers that trap air in the inner piston.

If this is the case then the approach is as follows:

- Pressurise the brake bleeder with a low (8 psi) pressure to stop fluid and air traveling upwards to the master cylinder

- Tap on the calliper and hose gently with a plastic hammer to dislodge any bubbles that adhere to the surface

- Remove a front calliper from the upright (2 allen head bolts), invert it so the connectng pipe is at the top and open the bleed nipple

- Tap the brake hoses gently and also tap on the inside of the calliper.

- Then (with your hands) squeeze the INNER piston in. This will empty the inner piston and force the bubbles to the front one. Make sure you push it completely in.

- Now carefully rotate the calliper normal side up again so the bleed nipple is at the top. Try to turn it so any bubbles in the outer piston will not try to go up the connecting pipe again.

- With the calliper 'right side up', tap the calliper again and squeeze the OUTER piston back into the calliper and watch for air bubbles escaping

- Close nipple

- Lightly bolt calliper back onto upright

- Refit pads

- Test for firm pedal after some pedal pumping to seat the pads

- If succesful then tighten calliper bolts

=== Conclusion ===

Using this method to fit new brake hoses and bleed the system the advantages are:

- You only introduce a tiny amount of air in the system, so less to get out again.

- You immediately know if you have air left in this specific part of the circuit if the brake pedal was hard beforehand, but now remains 'soft'. (no long 'hunt the problem' sessions)

== Bleeders ==
=== Power bleeders ===
safety goggles recommended
Pump up to 10psi, or 20psi...
Fitted with Ø42mm cap and suitable for most European models

=== Eezi Bleed kit ===
Uses the air pressure from your tyre to force the brake fluid through.

Oh, and don't make the schoolboy error I made, when you decide that you've got all the air out then just do a one more cheeky bleed without realising that the reservoir is almost empty. Oh how you'll laugh as you shoot big globs of air into the system... :wall

=== Make your own with plant sprayers ===
* http://www.bmw-m.net/TechProc/bleeder.htm

use it at your own risk, but I made my own Easybleed using one of those spray can with pump included used to spray indoor plants.
worked a treat (as long as there was fluid inside)

* [http://www.blunt.co.uk/hydroponics-shop-uk/hydroponics-products/sprayer-pump-action.jpg Sprayer pump action]

== External links ==
* http://www.elisenet.com/
* http://www.motiveproducts.com/02bleeders.html
* http://www.tool-supplies.co.uk/sealey-tools.php/products_id/1396

[[Category:Brakes]]
[[Category:DIY]]
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S1]]
[[Category:S2]]
[[Category:VX220]]

Bleed the brakes

2011-09-08T12:51:54Z

Sdio: /* S1 and non-ABS S2 */

[[Image:Brake_bleeder.jpg|thumb|left|Brake bleeder with reservoir]]
If air gets trapped inside the [[brake hoses]] a softer brake pedal is felt. The [[brakes]] need to be bled and the air removed from the system. This procedure is relatively simple, being made much easier with a specialist bleeder.

If you have air in the system (eg. when changing brake hoses) then you'll pretty much always need to mess around with the front callipers to get it all out as the design of them traps the air in the inner piston.

If it's just for flushing the system with new fluid (no air in the system) then it's pretty straightforward and you don't have to mess about with the callipers.

It helps a lot if you have spanners with a 'bend' at the end, like an open ring-spanner to keep the brake hose itself in place as you tighten the connector on the car side using a normal, but thin spanner.

On my (early) S2 there was enough space. On a VX220 I needed to dremel the hole above the connector a little to get enough clearance.

== Procedure ==
=== Flushing system ===

If no bubbles are in the system and you just want to refresh the brake fluid, you can either connect a pressure bleeder or bleed manually.

Order; OSR, NSR, OSF, NSF. Wheels off for the rears, but can do it through the spokes at the front.

Manually: For each calliper in turn, pump the brake pedal until it is solid then maintain the pressure whilst the other person puts a non-return valve on the brake nipple and releases it (11 mm spanner) until the pedal hits the deck.

Pressure bleeder: Fill bleeder with brake fluid, connect to reservoir, pressurise bleeder. One by one open bleed valves on calipers until fluid runs clear.

=== Changing brake hoses ===
When changing brake hoses or if you have air in the system a possible approach that can save loads of time or troubleshooting when bleeding is this:

- Before changing the hoses, remove the brake pads and fit very worn/old pads (or some strips of steel or wood) in their place

- Press the brake pedal a few times to extend the brake pistons in the calipers (the old pads or wedge are there to keep them from popping out completely!)

- Now disconnect an old brake hose from the car

- Disconnect the old hose from the calliper

- Connect the new hose to the calliper and tighten up

- Have a helper keep the open hose end up as high as possible

- Gently push back the piston in the calliper (hand/finger pressure for the fronts, screw back the rear) until brake fluid just comes out the open hose end

- Now connect the hose to the fixed line on the car and tighten connection

=== Bleeding rear callipers ===

For the rear callipers the rest of the procedure is:

- Pressurise bleeder

- Tap on the new brake hose and calliper with a plastic/wood hammer to dislodge trapped bubbles

- Open the bleed valve and screw the piston back completely

- Bleed it a little more normally and check if any more air bubbles comes out

Once it's clear, close the bleed valve, refit pads and check pedal hardness after pumping a few times to seat the pads. Should be solid.

=== Bleeding front callipers===
==== S1 and non-ABS S2 ====

For the front brakes there are two ways to get rid of the small amount of air in the hose once it is re-connected to the car.

On an S1 and older S2 without ABS you can pump the brake pedal until the pistons come out (as if the pads where worn), attention DO NOT push them to much and get them out of the calipers!

Now open the bleeding nipple and compress the pistons with the flexible hose first while rotating and gently tapping the caliper in order to guide any air bubbles towards the other piston with the bleeding nipple. Push the piston in completely.

Now push the other piston with the bleeding nipple fully in.
This will force any air bubbles out.

- If this worked you can bleed or flush the circuit as usual

- Close bleed valve

- Refit pads

- Test for pedal firmness.

If this worked then continue with the next calliper.

==== ABS equipped S2 or spongy pedal ====

On more recent cars with ABS, or if you still can't get a firm pedal after the first try then there's still air in this circuit somewhere and you need to bleed it the traditional way.

The approach here is a bit cumbersome because of the design of the callipers that trap air in the inner piston.

If this is the case then the approach is as follows:

- Pressurise the brake bleeder with a low (8 psi) pressure to stop fluid and air traveling upwards to the master cylinder

- Tap on the calliper and hose gently with a plastic hammer to dislodge any bubbles that adhere to the surface

- Remove a front calliper from the upright (2 allen head bolts), invert it so the connectng pipe is at the top and open the bleed nipple

- Tap the brake hoses gently and also tap on the inside of the calliper.

- Then (with your hands) squeeze the INNER piston in. This will empty the inner piston and force the bubbles to the front one. Make sure you push it completely in.

- Now carefully rotate the calliper normal side up again so the bleed nipple is at the top. Try to turn it so any bubbles in the outer piston will not try to go up the connecting pipe again.

- With the calliper 'right side up', tap the calliper again and squeeze the OUTER piston back into the calliper and watch for air bubbles escaping

- Close nipple

- Lightly bolt calliper back onto upright

- Refit pads

- Test for firm pedal after some pedal pumping to seat the pads

- If succesful then tighten calliper bolts

=== Conclusion ===

Using this method to fit new brake hoses and bleed the system the advantages are:

- You only introduce a tiny amount of air in the system, so less to get out again.

- You immediately know if you have air left in this specific part of the circuit if the brake pedal was hard beforehand, but now remains 'soft'. (no long 'hunt the problem' sessions)

== Bleeders ==
=== Power bleeders ===
safety goggles recommended
Pump up to 10psi, or 20psi...
Fitted with Ø42mm cap and suitable for most European models

=== Eezi Bleed kit ===
Uses the air pressure from your tyre to force the brake fluid through.

Oh, and don't make the schoolboy error I made, when you decide that you've got all the air out then just do a one more cheeky bleed without realising that the reservoir is almost empty. Oh how you'll laugh as you shoot big globs of air into the system... :wall

=== Make your own with plant sprayers ===
* http://www.bmw-m.net/TechProc/bleeder.htm

use it at your own risk, but I made my own Easybleed using one of those spray can with pump included used to spray indoor plants.
worked a treat (as long as there was fluid inside)

* [http://www.blunt.co.uk/hydroponics-shop-uk/hydroponics-products/sprayer-pump-action.jpg Sprayer pump action]

== External links ==
* http://www.elisenet.com/
* http://www.motiveproducts.com/02bleeders.html
* http://www.tool-supplies.co.uk/sealey-tools.php/products_id/1396

[[Category:Brakes]]
[[Category:DIY]]
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S1]]
[[Category:S2]]
[[Category:VX220]]