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Replacing S1 front near-side brake pipe

2014-07-04T18:43:54Z

Shortie:

'''Replacing the front near-side brake pipe'''

----

The longer front brake pipe that goes across the chassis just at the back of the radiator often corrodes badly, if you wish to replace it this is what you need to do.

Disconnect near side female connector where it connects to the flexi brake pipe

Disconnect male connector from master brake\clutch cylinder (NOTE: Be aware that if system still has brake fluid in it then be prepared to catch leaking fluid)

Unclip pipe from the plastic clips which hold it to the chassis

For replacements you can go to http://www.brakepipes2go.co.uk and order them, you need as follows:-

• Cupro-Nickel Brake Pipe

- Length in Centimetres: 77

- Union 1: BN3 10mm x 1mm standard male

- Union 2: BN3F 10mm x 1mm female

When you fit the new pipe you will need to bend it to match the old pipe as you go

Then refit the male end to the master brake\clutch cylinder 3-way union and the female end to the flexi brake pipe on the near side

Clip new pipe into plastic chassis clips

'''IMPORTANT: Bleed brake system and check brakes working fine'''

Replacing S1 front near-side brake pipe

2014-07-04T10:44:50Z

Shortie:

'''Replacing the front near-side brake pipe'''

----

The longer front brake pipe that goes across the chassis just at the back of the radiator often corrodes badly, if you wish to replace it this is what you need to do.

Disconnect near side female connector where it connects to the flexi brake pipe

Disconnect male connector from master brake\clutch cylinder (NOTE: Be aware that if system still has brake fluid in it then be prepared to catch leaking fluid)

Unclip pipe from the plastic clips which hold it to the chassis

For replacements you can go to www.brakepipes2go.co.uk and order them, you need as follows:-

• Cupro-Nickel Brake Pipe

- Length in Centimetres: 77

- Union 1: BN3 10mm x 1mm standard male

- Union 2: BN3F 10mm x 1mm female

When you fit the new pipe you will need to bend it to match the old pipe as you go

Then refit the male end to the master brake\clutch cylinder 3-way union and the female end to the flexi brake pipe on the near side

Clip new pipe into plastic chassis clips

'''IMPORTANT: Bleed brake system and check brakes working fine'''

Replacing S1 front near-side brake pipe

2014-07-04T10:44:32Z

Shortie: Created page with "'''Replacing the front near-side brake pipe''' ---- The longer front brake pipe that goes across the chassis just at the back of the radiator often corrodes badly, if you wi..."

'''Replacing the front near-side brake pipe'''

----

The longer front brake pipe that goes across the chassis just at the back of the radiator often corrodes badly, if you wish to replace it this is what you need to do.

Disconnect near side female connector where it connects to the flexi brake pipe

Disconnect male connector from master brake\clutch cylinder (NOTE: Be aware that if system still has brake fluid in it then be prepared to catch leaking fluid)

Unclip pipe from the plastic clips which hold it to the chassis

For replacements you can go to www.brakepipes2go.co.uk and order them, you need as follows:-

• Cupro-Nickel Brake Pipe
- Length in Centimetres: 77
- Union 1: BN3 10mm x 1mm standard male
- Union 2: BN3F 10mm x 1mm female

When you fit the new pipe you will need to bend it to match the old pipe as you go

Then refit the male end to the master brake\clutch cylinder 3-way union and the female end to the flexi brake pipe on the near side

Clip new pipe into plastic chassis clips

'''IMPORTANT: Bleed brake system and check brakes working fine'''

Replacing S1 rear brake pipes

2014-07-04T10:43:07Z

Shortie: Created page with "'''Replacing rear brake pipes''' ---- The rear brake pipes on the Elise get very corroded and often fail, they seem to be especially bad under the sheer panel on both sides ..."

'''Replacing rear brake pipes'''

----

The rear brake pipes on the Elise get very corroded and often fail, they seem to be especially bad under the sheer panel on both sides of the car where they clip into the plastic chassis clips. If you find they are corroded and want to change them this is how you do it.

Ensure both rear road wheels and both rear wheel arch liners are removed

Remove tank as per procedure (here)

With the fuel tank removed you will see the 3-way brake union just behind the firewall

Remove the male connectors from both sides of the 3-way union (NOTE: Be aware that if system still has brake fluid in it then be prepared to catch leaking fluid)

Remove female brake pipe connectors from where they join the rear flexi brake pipes on each side (mine were corroded solid and in the end just snapped in half, but you will be replacing anyway so doesn’t matter)

Unclip each of the rear pipes from the plastic clips which hold them to the chassis

Remove both rear brake pipes by feeding through as required (you can cut in half if you want as you will be replacing anyway)

For replacements you can go to http://www.brakepipes2go.co.uk and order them, you need as follows:-

• Cupro-Nickel Brake Pipe

Length in Centimetres: 164

- Union 1: BN3 10mm x 1mm standard male

- Union 2: BN3F 10mm x 1mm female

• Cupro-Nickel Brake Pipe

- Length in Centimetres: 169

- Union 1: BN3 10mm x 1mm standard male

- Union 2: BN3F 10mm x 1mm female

When you fit the new pipes you will need to bend to match the old pipes as you go

Then refit the male end to the 3-way union and the female end to the flexi brake pipe and clip new pipe into plastic chassis clips

'''IMPORTANT : Bleed brake system and check brakes working fine'''

Fuel Tank, Removal and Refurbishment

2014-07-04T10:39:08Z

Shortie: Created page with "'''Removing fuel tank''' ---- '''NOTE:''' This is best done when tank is empty or almost empty as otherwise tank will be heavy! Perform fuel pressure release procedure as f..."

'''Removing fuel tank'''

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'''NOTE:''' This is best done when tank is empty or almost empty as otherwise tank will be heavy!

Perform fuel pressure release procedure as follows:-

- Remove fuel pump fuse

- Start car and allow engine to run until it dies (if non-runner crank engine for 60 seconds on starter)

Remove middle and rear undertrays

Get car as high as possible on axle stands (I jack one side using middle jacking point, then place stands at front and rear sub frame jacking points on one side, then do the same on the other side.

Release gear change cables from gearbox end

Release throttle cable from engine end

Remove r-clip from handbrake cable ‘horseshoe’ connector.

Remove front and rear bolts from sheer panel and remove exposing fuel tank

Remove off-side wheel

Remove off-side wheel arch liner

Pull back sound proofing on engine firewall to expose fuel filler and breather pipes

Loosen all jubilee clips holding pipes to tank

Pour 2 kettles of boiling water over rubber hoses so that they expand and become softer and then pull them off fuel tank connectors

Support fuel tank from underneath using jack(s) or something else suitable

At this point you can try to remove the pump connections as follows but my hands were far too big to make this possible! If you can’t just skip this step for now.

- Remove passenger seat

- Remove fuel pump access panel on shelf behind passenger seat

- Put hand through hole and disconnect fuel pipes by squeezing clips together and electrical connector by pulling tab on side a bit and pulling off

Undo the four fuel tank bolts

Slowly and carefully lower the tank whilst trying to feed the fuel pipes through the bulkhead a bit until you can get you hand up the side of the tank and release the fuel pipes and electrical connector as above

Then lower the tank and remove

Replacement is a reversal of removal but ensure electrical wires are not caught when you refit