https://wiki.seloc.org/api.php?action=feedcontributions&feedformat=atom&user=The+Bandit 2026-04-06T14:00:13Z User contributions MediaWiki 1.45.3 https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Brake_pads&diff=9057 2011-02-25T14:59:27Z

<p>The Bandit: </p> <hr /> <div>The [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Original_equipment_manufacturer OEM] '''Brake pads''' on the Elise are reasonably expensive and generally not highly regarded. There are many after market products to choose from with superior performance, both in terms of stopping power and longevity, and at a more reasonable costs.<br /> <br /> '''[http://elise-faq.info/index.php?title=Pad_change Changing brake pads]''' is an easy and rewarding DIY project, and some people prefer the reassurance this gives. There is a '''[[Brake pad bedding in procedure]]''' which you are encouraged to following after fitting new pads.<br /> <br /> <br /> Brake pad fitment for the Elise is as follows:-<br /> <br /> <br /> Below is a list of after market manufacturers with descriptions, and real world experiences, from SELOC members.<br /> <br /> ==EBC==<br /> <br /> We fit 100s of Ebc Greens &amp; have had no reported failures or catching fire? However with any pads it is very important to bed them in properly &amp; we supply a hangar on every car that goes out explaining this.<br /> Edited by Sinclaire 20/05/09<br /> <br /> <br /> Green: Not recommended for track use but comparable with OEM pads for both stopping power and wear<br /> <br /> Yellow: New compound getting a good write-up for track use, possible alternative to Pagids at half the price<br /> <br /> ==Ferodo==<br /> === DS2500===<br /> Similar performance to Mintex 1144 but longer lasting. Common replacement pad in mainland Europe<br /> <br /> ==Mintex==<br /> ===1144===<br /> Excellent value for fast road and occasional track. Quick to bed in and work well from cold. Good pad life and not particularly abrasive on disks, although can be a bit dusty. Some fade experienced after pro-longed track use. Squeal can be a problem when the pads are hot, but a hefty dollop of coppaslip on the back of the pads should help.<br /> <br /> Can overheat on tracks that need heavy braking and not much opportunity for cooling (e.g. Brands Indy), leading to a &quot;gravelly&quot; feel after a few laps.<br /> <br /> ==Pagid==<br /> [http://www.braketechnology.com/ Official Website]<br /> <br /> [http://www.braketechnology.com/racecharacteristics.html Racing Compound Characteristics]<br /> <br /> ===RS 4-2 Blue===<br /> A medium friction racing compound with good cold friction and fading resistance up to 500°C ( 930°F).<br /> * Work well from cold.<br /> * Under very hard use they will fade before the RS14 compound.<br /> * less prone to squeal than RS14's<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> Summary, A good compromise for both Road and Track usage.<br /> <br /> Fronts are lasting around 10 hard track days (20 hours) rears are lasting 40 track hard days (80 hours).<br /> <br /> ===RS 14 Black===<br /> This is a medium high friction value ceramic type compound with very good modulation, high fade resistance, low heat conductivity, and a good wear rate up to a temperature of 650°C (1.200°F). <br /> * If used as a road pad they can eat discs, however when at track temperature the wear ratio will be higher in the pad providing less wear of the disk.<br /> * Not as effective from cold as the RS 4-2 compound.<br /> * Very track orientated pad so whilst safe to use on the road a driver with a road only intention may well be better to look at a different compound.<br /> These pads can generate a lot of squeal if not used in anger on a regular basis, so while highly rated for track work, these pads are perhaps too compromised for a road car.<br /> <br /> ===RS 15 Grey===<br /> Very high torque compound. It combines a 20% higher friction value than the RS14 with a slightly increased pad wear. Needs finesse to avoid over braking the car. Good release characteristic. Although the RS15 has a very good modulation (controllability) it might have an excessive bite for some applications, as lightweight cars or cars with boosted brakes. Applications: NASCAR, CART, F3, Touring cars, GT cars, WSC, DP, Trans Am and Rally.<br /> <br /> ==SBS==<br /> Scandinavian Brake Systems<br /> * http://www.sbs.dk/index.dsp?area=210<br /> * UK SBS distributer is [[Questmead]].<br /> <br /> === ProTrack ===<br /> Steady, all round carbon ceramic race compound. Ideal for track days, standard car racing etc.<br /> <br /> * Disc temperatures up to 700°C.<br /> <br /> Front: 3017.CC.TH14.3<br /> Rear: 3101.CC.<br /> <br /> === ProRace ===<br /> The professional Dual Carbon race compound for racing at highest level. Stable and consistent brake performance round after round. Extremely high thermal stability.<br /> <br /> * Disc temperatures up to 800°C.<br /> <br /> ==OMP==<br /> <br /> === Road&amp;Sport ===<br /> ====OT/7951 Front pads ====<br /> ====OT/7954 Rear pads ====<br /> <br /> http://www.ompracing.it/prodotti.html?categorycode=GPASTIGLIE1&amp;changelanguage=en<br /> <br /> OMP Road&amp;Sport brake pads have been developed to offer excellent performance in fast road use.<br /> * Excellent stability of the friction coefficient, even at the highest temperature (see graph).<br /> * This compound is the result of 30 years experience in rallies and track racers.<br /> * For the new car models manufactured from 10/1999 the pads are homologated according to R-90 rules.<br /> <br /> ===Racing===<br /> ====OT/6951 Front pads====<br /> ====OT/6952 Rear pads====<br /> <br /> http://www.ompracing.it/prodotti.html?categorycode=GPASTIGLIE&amp;changelanguage=en<br /> <br /> 971C RACING COMPOUND<br /> OMP 971C range of brake pads is made from a new friction material, asbestos free, having following characteristics:<br /> * COMPOSITION: thermosetting resins with the addition of special carbon materials.<br /> * FRICTION COEFFICIENT: very high (0.48).<br /> * FRICTION STABILITY: uniform also during varying of the temperature in a field between 100 and 800° C (see graph).<br /> * ANTI-FADING PROPERTIES: excellent<br /> * MECHANICAL RESISTANCE: very high also thanks to the special structure formed by the substances present in the compound.<br /> * TOP LEVEL PERFORMANCES in professional use (Rally, Group N).<br /> <br /> Pads have good initial bite from cold and cope well with track use.<br /> <br /> Could do with a little more feedback under hard braking, but don't show any signs of fading.<br /> <br /> Like many track-oriented pads they can squeal/screech quite a bit on the street.<br /> <br /> Low disc wear.<br /> <br /> ==Carbone Lorraine==<br /> ===RC5, RC6, RC8===<br /> Sintered brake pads from French manufacturer who started out as a motorbike brake manufacturer, but also does the brake pads for the TGV and works rally teams from Peugeot, etc.<br /> <br /> * RC5 pads have the lowest friction index (approx 0.48)<br /> * RC6 is medium (0.55)<br /> * RC8 is high (&gt;0.6)<br /> <br /> RC8 probably has a friction index that is too high for a light car like the Elise and locks up too quickly or gives too little control over brake modulation.<br /> <br /> RC6 and RC5 are more useful.<br /> <br /> [http://www.carbonelorraine-motorsport.com/ Website]<br /> <br /> [http://www.carbonelorraine-motorsport.com/marques_vehicules/lotus_elise_mk1_2_700.htm Click here] for Elise specific pads<br /> <br /> * Front pad type code: 4060<br /> * Rear pad type code: 4115<br /> <br /> As delivered the pads for 4 pot calipers may be too thick and require some grinding of the friction material (about 1mm) to fit properly on new discs.<br /> <br /> With standard calipers they are a straight fit but you MUST fit the small square anti rattle rubber buffers directly to the caliper or suffer very annoying rattling from the n/s/f disc.<br /> <br /> These pads give a very consistent pedal feel and show little or no variation in retardation if temperatures go up. Fading because of pad material breakdown is virtually impossible as sintered material does not break down until &gt;1100C and by that time your brake fluid will have started to boil.<br /> <br /> ==Textar==<br /> ===R90 Road pads===<br /> Pure road pads which should be similar (and possibly identical) to Lotus OEM brake pads.<br /> <br /> Part numbers:<br /> <br /> * Front: 2032306 (EAN-number: 4019722256141)<br /> * Rear: 2041003 (EAN-number: 4019722256172)<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Category:Brakes]]<br /> [[Category:Lotus Elise]]<br /> [[Category:S1]]<br /> [[Category:S2]]</div>

The Bandit https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Harness_fitting(Schroth)&diff=8393 2009-11-23T21:34:59Z

<p>The Bandit: </p> <hr /> <div>'''This is a guide to fitting Schroth Profi ASM II wrap around harnesses to an S2 using the Sector 111 fixing kit which retains your seatbelts.'''<br /> <br /> Tools required:<br /> <br /> *6mm Allen key/socket.<br /> <br /> *5mm Allen key/socket.<br /> <br /> *Ratchet and long extension.<br /> <br /> *U-joint flexible adaptor for sockets,optional but helpful.<br /> <br /> *13mm spanner/socket.<br /> <br /> *2x17mm spanners.<br /> <br /> This guide is designed to supplement the Sector 111 instructions.<br /> <br /> http://www.msar-safety.com/download/harnesskit.pdf<br /> <br /> <br /> 1)Firstly,remove the drivers seat by unbolting the rear two 6mm allen bolts and then the front two 8mm(13mm spanner size)bolts,sliding the seat backwards and forwards makes this easier.Remember to pick up the two small metal 'tabs' at the rear of the seat runners and remember their orientation(they stop the seat going back too far).<br /> You will also need to unbolt the seatbelt from the seat using the 17mm spanner(later cars have two wires attached under the seat for the seatbelt warning light,simply pull apart the connectors and label them).Remove the spacer from the seatbelt mount as this is not used again. <br /> *Protecting the centre console and door sill with blankets also stops you scratching/marking them when the seat comes out /voe<br /> <br /> <br /> 2)Correctly orientate your harnesses.The release buckles sit on both 'inboard' sides(closest to centre console)and the shoulder belts '''MUST''' have the yellow tags on the 'inboard' sides also.<br /> <br /> '''THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT!!''' *Note* the shoulder belts are left and right handed,get them the right way around!<br /> <br /> *Note the newer ASMs are now fully tested and can be used with the yellow tabs either way around,check on your instructions!<br /> <br /> <br /> 3)Next,lay the drivers seat on a blanket on the floor with the seatbelt buckle facing you('inboard' side).Undo the 6mm allen bolt and remove.Pop out the spacer,buckle and spring.Loosen the three 5mm allen bolts around the seat bracket.<br /> <br /> Now comes the fiddly bit.Open the Sector 111 fixing kit and identify the flat washers.Between the seat bracket and seat you will need firstly,a flat washer,then the Schroth lapbelt bracket(with lapbelt attached,obviously!),next the Tapered spacer(faces outwards),and finally the seatbelt buckle.Align them all with a screwdriver through the hole,then push the allen bolt back in and tighten up making '''VERY''' sure its not cross-threaded first.<br /> <br /> Tighten the three allen bolts back up.<br /> <br /> Ensure the seatbelt buckle can still move albeit with a little resistance.Spin the seat over and loosen the three allen bolts on that side.Check all other fixings are tight!<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> 4)Now the seat needs to go back in,but before you locate it,you need to attach the seatbelt and lapbelt.<br /> <br /> So,again you should have a flat washer and lapbelt bracket but this time there is the flat spacer from the kit that goes in,followed by the seatbelt mount(ensure its the right way around),again locate all together centrally and bolt to the seat using the original bolt.<br /> <br /> Re-tighten three 5mm allen bolts.<br /> <br /> <br /> 5)Re-fit the seat by reversing step 1.Dont forget the metal tabs at the ends of the seat runners.Check all fixings are tight!<br /> <br /> <br /> 6)Now the passenger side seat needs to come out,its a little more fiddly than the drivers side as you can't move it back or forth but step 1 is repeated again.<br /> <br /> <br /> 7)Repeat the steps in 3 for fitting the inboard lapbelt.Next the outboard mount needs fixing,this is the threaded stud from the kit.<br /> <br /> Wind it in to the seat thread using the shorter threaded end.<br /> <br /> Next wind the two nuts down the longer thread and 'lock' them together using two spanners in opposing directions,this allows you to then tighten the stud into the seat using the locked nuts.<br /> <br /> Unlock the nuts using your spanners and wind both off the stud.<br /> <br /> <br /> 8)Again,the seat needs to go in and again,you need to mount the seatbelt and lapbelt on it before you locate it(lean the seat at an angle to help with this).<br /> <br /> So,on the stud goes firstly, the lapbelt bracket,then the 'Top hat' spacer from the kit(again,faces outwards),next the seatbelt mount(check its the right way around!)and finally the flat washer,spring washer and 17mm nut from the kit goes on and is done up tight.<br /> <br /> Again,the seatbelt buckle should be able to move with a little resistance. <br /> <br /> <br /> 9)Re-fit the passenger seat.Check all fixings are tight!<br /> <br /> <br /> 10)Wrap the shoulder straps around the harness bar one by one making sure they are the correct hand and you end up with the yellow tabs on the inboard sides.<br /> <br /> You can do this with the seats in place by wrapping each shoulder strap in the space in between each seat,sliding them along and pulling through the harness hole in each seat. <br /> <br /> '''Alternatively you can fit the shoulder straps when the seats are out which some will find easier'''.<br /> <br /> '''IMPORTANT!'''Ensure you wrap each harness through the buckle in the correct order,see guide:<br /> <br /> http://gallery.seloc.org/albums/userpics/34810/picture%7E0.jpg <br /> <br /> http://gallery.seloc.org/albums/userpics/34810/installation.JPG <br /> <br /> http://videos.sector111.com/video2.php<br /> <br /> <br /> Adjust the length of each one to suit by doing a test fit of connecting all the harness belts and tightening them up(with you in the seat natch!)<br /> <br /> <br /> 11)Have a cup of tea and a choccy biccy.<br /> <br /> <br /> 12)Sit back and admire handywork. :)<br /> <br /> Big thanks to Jen @ MSAR for the links and advise!</div>

The Bandit https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Harness_fitting(Schroth)&diff=8392 2009-11-22T18:29:46Z

<p>The Bandit: </p> <hr /> <div>'''This is a guide to fitting Schroth Profi ASM II wrap around harnesses to an S2 using the Sector 111 fixing kit which retains your seatbelts.'''<br /> <br /> Tools required:<br /> <br /> *6mm Allen key/socket.<br /> <br /> *5mm Allen key/socket.<br /> <br /> *Ratchet and long extension.<br /> <br /> *U-joint flexible adaptor for sockets,optional but helpful.<br /> <br /> *13mm spanner/socket.<br /> <br /> *2x17mm spanners.<br /> <br /> <br /> 1)Firstly,remove the drivers seat by unbolting the rear two 6mm allen bolts and then the front two 8mm(13mm spanner size)bolts,sliding the seat backwards and forwards makes this easier.Remember to pick up the two small metal 'tabs' at the rear of the seat runners and remember their orientation(they stop the seat going back too far).<br /> You will also need to unbolt the seatbelt from the seat using the 17mm spanner(later cars have two wires attached under the seat for the seatbelt warning light,simply pull apart the connectors and label them).Remove the spacer from the seatbelt mount as this is not used again. <br /> *Protecting the centre console and door sill with blankets also stops you scratching/marking them when the seat comes out /voe<br /> <br /> <br /> 2)Correctly orientate your harnesses.The release buckles sit on both 'inboard' sides(closest to centre console)and the shoulder belts '''MUST''' have the yellow tags on the 'inboard' sides also.<br /> <br /> '''THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT!!''' *Note* the shoulder belts are left and right handed,get them the right way around!<br /> <br /> <br /> 3)Next,lay the drivers seat on a blanket on the floor with the seatbelt buckle facing you('inboard' side).Undo the 6mm allen bolt and remove.Pop out the spacer,buckle and spring.Loosen the three 5mm allen bolts around the seat bracket.<br /> <br /> Now comes the fiddly bit.Open the Sector 111 fixing kit and identify the flat washers.Between the seat bracket and seat you will need firstly,a flat washer,then the Schroth lapbelt bracket(with lapbelt attached,obviously!),next the Tapered spacer(faces outwards),and finally the seatbelt buckle.Align them all with a screwdriver through the hole,then push the allen bolt back in and tighten up making '''VERY''' sure its not cross-threaded first.<br /> <br /> Tighten the three allen bolts back up.<br /> <br /> Ensure the seatbelt buckle can still move albeit with a little resistance.Spin the seat over and loosen the three allen bolts on that side.Check all other fixings are tight! <br /> <br /> <br /> 4)Now the seat needs to go back in,but before you locate it,you need to attach the seatbelt and lapbelt.<br /> <br /> So,again you should have a flat washer and lapbelt bracket but this time there is the flat spacer from the kit that goes in,followed by the seatbelt mount(ensure its the right way around),again locate all together centrally and bolt to the seat using the original bolt.<br /> <br /> Re-tighten three 5mm allen bolts.<br /> <br /> <br /> 5)Re-fit the seat by reversing step 1.Dont forget the metal tabs at the ends of the seat runners.Check all fixings are tight!<br /> <br /> <br /> 6)Now the passenger side seat needs to come out,its a little more fiddly than the drivers side as you can't move it back or forth but step 1 is repeated again.<br /> <br /> <br /> 7)Repeat the steps in 3 for fitting the inboard lapbelt.Next the outboard mount needs fixing,this is the threaded stud from the kit.<br /> <br /> Wind it in to the seat thread using the shorter threaded end.<br /> <br /> Next wind the two nuts down the longer thread and 'lock' them together using two spanners in opposing directions,this allows you to then tighten the stud into the seat using the locked nuts.<br /> <br /> Unlock the nuts using your spanners and wind both off the stud.<br /> <br /> <br /> 8)Again,the seat needs to go in and again,you need to mount the seatbelt and lapbelt on it before you locate it(lean the seat at an angle to help with this).<br /> <br /> So,on the stud goes firstly, the lapbelt bracket,then the 'Top hat' spacer from the kit(again,faces outwards),next the seatbelt mount(check its the right way around!)and finally the flat washer,spring washer and 17mm nut from the kit goes on and is done up tight.<br /> <br /> Again,the seatbelt buckle should be able to move with a little resistance. <br /> <br /> <br /> 9)Re-fit the passenger seat.Check all fixings are tight!<br /> <br /> <br /> 10)Wrap the shoulder straps around the harness bar one by one making sure they are the correct hand and you end up with the yellow tabs on the inboard sides.<br /> <br /> You can do this with the seats in place by wrapping each shoulder strap in the space in between each seat,sliding them along and pulling through the harness hole in each seat. <br /> <br /> '''IMPORTANT!'''Ensure you wrap each harness through the buckle in the correct order,see guide:<br /> <br /> http://gallery.seloc.org/albums/userpics/34810/picture%7E0.jpg <br /> <br /> http://gallery.seloc.org/albums/userpics/34810/installation.JPG <br /> <br /> <br /> Adjust the length of each one to suit by doing a test fit of connecting all the harness belts and tightening them up(with you in the seat natch!)<br /> <br /> <br /> 11)Have a cup of tea and a choccy biccy.<br /> <br /> <br /> 12)Sit back and admire handywork. :)</div>

The Bandit https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Harness_fitting(Schroth)&diff=8391 2009-11-22T18:23:58Z

<p>The Bandit: </p> <hr /> <div>'''This is a guide to fitting Schroth Profi ASM II wrap around harnesses to an S2 using the Sector 111 fixing kit which retains your seatbelts.'''<br /> <br /> Tools required:<br /> <br /> *6mm Allen key/socket.<br /> <br /> *5mm Allen key/socket.<br /> <br /> *Ratchet and long extension.<br /> <br /> *U-joint flexible adaptor for sockets,optional but helpful.<br /> <br /> *13mm spanner/socket.<br /> <br /> *2x17mm spanners.<br /> <br /> <br /> 1)Firstly,remove the drivers seat by unbolting the rear two 6mm allen bolts and then the front two 8mm(13mm spanner size)bolts,sliding the seat backwards and forwards makes this easier.Remember to pick up the two small metal 'tabs' at the rear of the seat runners and remember their orientation(they stop the seat going back too far).<br /> You will also need to unbolt the seatbelt from the seat using the 17mm spanner(later cars have two wires attached under the seat for the seatbelt warning light,simply pull apart the connectors and label them).Remove the spacer from the seatbelt mount as this is not used again. <br /> *Protecting the centre console and door sill with blankets also stops you scratching/marking them when the seat comes out /voe<br /> <br /> <br /> 2)Correctly orientate your harnesses.The release buckles sit on both 'inboard' sides(closest to centre console)and the shoulder belts '''MUST''' have the yellow tags on the 'inboard' sides also.<br /> <br /> '''THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT!!''' *Note* the shoulder belts are left and right handed,get them the right way around!<br /> <br /> <br /> 3)Next,lay the drivers seat on a blanket on the floor with the seatbelt buckle facing you('inboard' side).Undo the 6mm allen bolt and remove.Pop out the spacer,buckle and spring.Loosen the three 5mm allen bolts around the seat bracket.<br /> <br /> Now comes the fiddly bit.Open the Sector 111 fixing kit and identify the flat washers.Between the seat bracket and seat you will need firstly,a flat washer,then the Schroth lapbelt bracket(with lapbelt attached,obviously!),next the Tapered spacer(faces outwards),and finally the seatbelt buckle.Align them all with a screwdriver through the hole,then push the allen bolt back in and tighten up making '''VERY''' sure its not cross-threaded first.<br /> <br /> Tighten the three allen bolts back up.<br /> <br /> Ensure the seatbelt buckle can still move albeit with a little resistance.Spin the seat over and loosen the three allen bolts on that side.Check all other fixings are tight! <br /> <br /> <br /> 4)Now the seat needs to go back in,but before you locate it,you need to attach the seatbelt and lapbelt.<br /> <br /> So,again you should have a flat washer and lapbelt bracket but this time there is the flat spacer from the kit that goes in,followed by the seatbelt mount(ensure its the right way around),again locate all together centrally and bolt to the seat using the original bolt.<br /> <br /> Re-tighten three 5mm allen bolts.<br /> <br /> <br /> 5)Re-fit the seat by reversing step 1.Dont forget the metal tabs at the ends of the seat runners.Check all fixings are tight!<br /> <br /> <br /> 6)Now the passenger side seat needs to come out,its a little more fiddly than the drivers side as you can't move it back or forth but step 1 is repeated again.<br /> <br /> <br /> 7)Repeat the steps in 3 for fitting the inboard lapbelt.Next the outboard mount needs fixing,this is the threaded stud from the kit.<br /> <br /> Wind it in to the seat thread using the shorter threaded end.<br /> <br /> Next wind the two nuts down the longer thread and 'lock' them together using two spanners in opposing directions,this allows you to then tighten the stud into the seat using the locked nuts.<br /> <br /> Unlock the nuts using your spanners and wind both off the stud.<br /> <br /> <br /> 8)Again,the seat needs to go in and again,you need to mount the seatbelt and lapbelt on it before you locate it(lean it at an angle).<br /> <br /> So,on the stud goes firstly, the lapbelt bracket,then the 'Top hat' spacer from the kit(again,faces outwards),next the seatbelt mount(check its the right way around!)and finally the flat washer,spring washer and 17mm nut from the kit goes on and is done up tight.<br /> <br /> Again,the seatbelt buckle should be able to move with a little resistance. <br /> <br /> <br /> 9)Re-fit the passenger seat.Check all fixings are tight!<br /> <br /> <br /> 10)Wrap the shoulder straps around the harness bar one by one making sure they are the correct hand and you end up with the yellow tabs on the inborad sides.<br /> <br /> '''IMPORTANT!'''Ensure you wrap each harness through the buckle in the correct order,see guide:<br /> <br /> http://gallery.seloc.org/albums/userpics/34810/picture%7E0.jpg <br /> <br /> http://gallery.seloc.org/albums/userpics/34810/installation.JPG <br /> <br /> <br /> Adjust the length of each one to suit by doing a test fit of connecting all the harness belts and tightening them up(with you in the seat natch!)<br /> <br /> <br /> 11)Have a cup of tea and a choccy biccy.<br /> <br /> <br /> 12)Sit back and admire handywork. :)</div>

The Bandit https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Harness_fitting(Schroth)&diff=8390 2009-11-22T18:12:34Z

<p>The Bandit: </p> <hr /> <div>'''This is a guide to fitting Schroth Profi ASM II wrap around harnesses to an S2 using the Sector 111 fixing kit which retains your seatbelts.'''<br /> <br /> Tools required:<br /> <br /> *6mm Allen key/socket.<br /> <br /> *5mm Allen key/socket.<br /> <br /> *Ratchet and long extension.<br /> <br /> *U-joint flexible adaptor for sockets,optional but helpful.<br /> <br /> *13mm spanner/socket.<br /> <br /> *2x17mm spanners.<br /> <br /> <br /> 1)Firstly,remove the drivers seat by unbolting the rear two 6mm allen bolts and then the front two 8mm(13mm spanner size)bolts,sliding the seat backwards and forwards makes this easier.Remember to pick up the two small metal 'tabs' at the rear of the seat runners and remember their orientation(they stop the seat going back too far).<br /> You will also need to unbolt the seatbelt from the seat using the 17mm spanner(later cars have two wires attached under the seat for the seatbelt warning light,simply pull apart the connectors and label them).Remove the spacer from the seatbelt mount as this is not used again. <br /> *Protecting the centre console and door sill with blankets also stops you scratching/marking them when the seat comes out /voe<br /> <br /> <br /> 2)Correctly orientate your harnesses.The release buckles sit on both 'inboard' sides(closest to centre console)and the shoulder belts '''MUST''' have the yellow tags on the 'inboard' sides also.<br /> <br /> '''THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT!!''' *Note* the shoulder belts are left and right handed,get them the right way around!<br /> <br /> <br /> 3)Next,lay the drivers seat on a blanket on the floor with the seatbelt buckle facing you('inboard' side).Undo the 6mm allen bolt and remove.Pop out the spacer,buckle and spring.Loosen the three 5mm allen bolts around the seat bracket.<br /> <br /> Now comes the fiddly bit.Open the Sector 111 fixing kit and identify the flat washers.Between the seat bracket and seat you will need firstly,a flat washer,then the Schroth lapbelt bracket(with lapbelt attached,obviously!),next the Tapered spacer(faces outwards),and finally the seatbelt buckle.Align them all with a screwdriver through the hole,then push the allen bolt back in and tighten up making '''VERY''' sure its not cross-threaded first.<br /> <br /> Tighten the three allen bolts back up.<br /> <br /> Ensure the seatbelt buckle can still move albeit with a little resistance.Spin the seat over and loosen the three allen bolts on that side.Check all other fixings are tight! <br /> <br /> <br /> 4)Now the seat needs to go back in,but before you locate it,you need to attach the seatbelt and lapbelt.<br /> <br /> So,again you should have a flat washer and lapbelt bracket but this time there is the flat spacer from the kit that goes in,followed by the seatbelt mount(ensure its the right way around),again locate all together centrally and bolt to the seat using the original bolt.<br /> <br /> Re-tighten three 5mm allen bolts.<br /> <br /> <br /> 5)Re-fit the seat by reversing step 1.Dont forget the metal tabs at the ends of the seat runners.Check all fixings are tight!<br /> <br /> <br /> 6)Now the passenger side seat needs to come out,its a little more fiddly than the drivers side as you can't move it back or forth but step 1 is repeated again.<br /> <br /> <br /> 7)Repeat the steps in 3 for fitting the inboard lapbelt.Next the outbord mount needs fixing,this is the threaded stud from the kit.<br /> <br /> Wind it in to the seat thread using the shorter threaded end.<br /> <br /> Next wind the two nuts down the longer thread and 'lock' them together using two spanners in opposing directions,this allows you to then tighten the stud into the seat using the locked nuts.<br /> <br /> Unlock the nuts using your spanners and wind both off the stud.<br /> <br /> <br /> 8)Again,the seat needs to go in and again,you need to mount the seatbelt and lapbelt on it before you locate it(lean it at an angle).<br /> <br /> So,on the stud goes firstly, the lapbelt bracket,then the 'Top hat' spacer from the kit(again,faces outwards),next the seatbelt mount(check its the right way around!)and finally the flat washer,spring washer and 17mm nut from the kit goes on and is done up tight.<br /> <br /> Again,the seatbelt buckle should be able to move with a little resistance. <br /> <br /> <br /> 9)Re-fit the passenger seat.Check all fixings are tight!<br /> <br /> <br /> 10)Wrap the shoulder straps around the harness bar one by one making sure they are the correct hand and you end up with the yellow tabs on the inborad sides.<br /> <br /> '''IMPORTANT!'''Ensure you wrap each harness through the buckle in the correct order,see guide:<br /> <br /> http://gallery.seloc.org/albums/userpics/34810/picture%7E0.jpg <br /> <br /> http://gallery.seloc.org/albums/userpics/34810/installation.JPG <br /> <br /> <br /> Adjust the length of each one to suit by doing a test fit of connecting all the harness belts and tightening them up(with you in the seat natch!)<br /> <br /> <br /> 11)Have a cup of tea and a choccy biccy.<br /> <br /> <br /> 12)Sit back and admire handywork. :)</div>

The Bandit https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Harness_fitting(Schroth)&diff=8389 2009-11-22T18:10:56Z

<p>The Bandit: </p> <hr /> <div>'''This is a guide to fitting Schroth Profi ASM II wrap around harnesses to an S2 using the Sector 111 fixing kit which retains your seatbelts.'''<br /> <br /> Tools required:<br /> <br /> *6mm Allen key/socket.<br /> <br /> *5mm Allen key/socket.<br /> <br /> *Ratchet and long extension.<br /> <br /> *U-joint flexible adaptor for sockets,optional but helpful.<br /> <br /> *13mm spanner/socket.<br /> <br /> *2x17mm spanners.<br /> <br /> <br /> 1)Firstly,remove the drivers seat by unbolting the rear two 6mm allen bolts and then the front two 8mm(13mm spanner size)bolts,sliding the seat backwards and forwards makes this easier.Remember to pick up the two small metal 'tabs' at the rear of the seat runners and remember their orientation(they stop the seat going back too far).<br /> You will also need to unbolt the seatbelt from the seat using the 17mm spanner(later cars have two wires attached under the seat for the seatbelt warning light,simply pull apart the connectors and label them).Remove the spacer from the seatbelt mount as this is not used again. <br /> *Protecting the centre console and door sill with blankets also stops you scratching/marking them when the seat comes out /voe<br /> <br /> <br /> 2)Correctly orientate your harnesses.The release buckles sit on both 'inboard' sides(closest to centre console)and the shoulder belts '''MUST''' have the yellow tags on the 'inboard' sides also.'''THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT!!''' *Note* the shoulder belts are left and right handed,get them the right way around!<br /> <br /> <br /> 3)Next,lay the drivers seat on a blanket on the floor with the seatbelt buckle facing you('inboard' side).Undo the 6mm allen bolt and remove.Pop out the spacer,buckle and spring.Loosen the three 5mm allen bolts around the seat bracket.<br /> <br /> Now comes the fiddly bit.Open the Sector 111 fixing kit and identify the flat washers.Between the seat bracket and seat you will need firstly,a flat washer,then the Schroth lapbelt bracket(with lapbelt attached,obviously!),next the Tapered spacer(faces outwards),and finally the seatbelt buckle.Align them all with a screwdriver through the hole,then push the allen bolt back in and tighten up making '''VERY''' sure its not cross-threaded first.<br /> <br /> Tighten the three allen bolts back up.<br /> <br /> Ensure the seatbelt buckle can still move albeit with a little resistance.Spin the seat over and loosen the three allen bolts on that side.Check all other fixings are tight! <br /> <br /> <br /> 4)Now the seat needs to go back in,but before you locate it,you need to attach the seatbelt and lapbelt.<br /> <br /> So,again you should have a flat washer and lapbelt bracket but this time there is the flat spacer from the kit that goes in,followed by the seatbelt mount(ensure its the right way around),again locate all together centrally and bolt to the seat using the original bolt.<br /> <br /> Re-tighten three 5mm allen bolts.<br /> <br /> <br /> 5)Re-fit the seat by reversing step 1.Dont forget the metal tabs at the ends of the seat runners.Check all fixings are tight!<br /> <br /> <br /> 6)Now the passenger side seat needs to come out,its a little more fiddly than the drivers side as you can't move it back or forth but step 1 is repeated again.<br /> <br /> <br /> 7)Repeat the steps in 3 for fitting the inboard lapbelt.Next the outbord mount needs fixing,this is the threaded stud from the kit.<br /> <br /> Wind it in to the seat thread using the shorter threaded end.<br /> <br /> Next wind the two nuts down the longer thread and 'lock' them together using two spanners in opposing directions,this allows you to then tighten the stud into the seat using the locked nuts.<br /> <br /> Unlock the nuts using your spanners and wind both off the stud.<br /> <br /> <br /> 8)Again,the seat needs to go in and again,you need to mount the seatbelt and lapbelt on it before you locate it(lean it at an angle).<br /> <br /> So,on the stud goes firstly, the lapbelt bracket,then the 'Top hat' spacer from the kit(again,faces outwards),next the seatbelt mount(check its the right way around!)and finally the flat washer,spring washer and 17mm nut from the kit goes on and is done up tight.<br /> <br /> Again,the seatbelt buckle should be able to move with a little resistance. <br /> <br /> <br /> 9)Re-fit the passenger seat.Check all fixings are tight!<br /> <br /> <br /> 10)Wrap the shoulder straps around the harness bar one by one making sure they are the correct hand and you end up with the yellow tabs on the inborad sides.<br /> <br /> '''IMPORTANT!'''Ensure you wrap each harness through the buckle in the correct order,see guide:<br /> <br /> http://gallery.seloc.org/albums/userpics/34810/picture%7E0.jpg <br /> <br /> http://gallery.seloc.org/albums/userpics/34810/installation.JPG <br /> <br /> <br /> Adjust the length of each one to suit by doing a test fit of connecting all the harness belts and tightening them up(with you in the seat natch!)<br /> <br /> <br /> 11)Have a cup of tea and a choccy biccy.<br /> <br /> <br /> 12)Sit back and admire handywork. :)</div>

The Bandit https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Harness_fitting(Schroth)&diff=8388 2009-11-22T18:00:47Z

<p>The Bandit: </p> <hr /> <div>'''This is a guide to fitting Schroth Profi ASM II wrap around harnesses to an S2 using the Sector 111 fixing kit which retains your seatbelts.'''<br /> <br /> Tools required:<br /> <br /> *6mm Allen key/socket.<br /> <br /> *5mm Allen key/socket.<br /> <br /> *Ratchet and long extension.<br /> <br /> *U-joint flexible adaptor for sockets,optional but helpful.<br /> <br /> *13mm spanner/socket.<br /> <br /> *2x17mm spanners.<br /> <br /> <br /> 1)Firstly,remove the drivers seat by unbolting the rear two 6mm allen bolts and then the front two 8mm(13mm spanner size)bolts,sliding the seat backwards and forwards makes this easier.Remember to pick up the two small metal 'tabs' at the rear of the seat runners and remember their orientation(they stop the seat going back too far).<br /> You will also need to unbolt the seatbelt from the seat using the 17mm spanner(later cars have two wires attached under the seat for the seatbelt warning light,simply pull apart the connectors and label them).Remove the spacer from the seatbelt mount as this is not used again. <br /> *Protecting the centre console and door sill with blankets also stops you scratching/marking them when the seat comes out /voe<br /> <br /> <br /> 2)Correctly orientate your harnesses.The release buckles sit on both 'inboard' sides(closest to centre console)and the shoulder belts '''MUST''' have the yellow tags on the 'inboard' sides also.'''THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT!!''' *Note* the shoulder belts are left and right handed,get them the right way around!<br /> <br /> <br /> 3)Next,lay the drivers seat on a blanket on the floor with the seatbelt buckle facing you('inboard' side).Undo the 6mm allen bolt and remove.Pop out the spacer,buckle and spring.Loosen the three 5mm allen bolts around the seat bracket.<br /> Now comes the fiddly bit.Open the Sector 111 fixing kit and identify the flat washers.Between the seat bracket and seat you will need firstly,a flat washer,then the Schroth lapbelt bracket(with lapbelt attached,obviously!),next the Tapered spacer(faces outwards),and finally the seatbelt buckle.Align them all with a screwdriver through the hole,then push the allen bolt back in and tighten up making '''VERY''' sure its not cross-threaded first.Tighten the three allen bolts back up.Spin the seat around and loosen the three allen bolts that side.Ensure the seatbelt buckle can still move albeit with a little resistance.Check all fixings are tight! <br /> <br /> <br /> 4)Now the seat needs to go back in.But before you locate it,you need to attach the seatbelt and lapbelt.So,again you should have a flat washer and lapbelt bracket but this time there is the flat spacer from the kit that goes in,followed by the seatbelt mount(ensure its the right way around),again locate all together centrally and bolt to the seat using the original bolt.<br /> <br /> <br /> 5)Re-fit the seat by reversing step 1.Check all fixings are tight!<br /> <br /> <br /> 6)Now the passenger side seat needs to come out,its a little more fiddly than the drivers side as you can't move it back or forth but step 1 is repeated again.<br /> <br /> <br /> 7)Repeat the steps in 3 for fitting the inboard lapbelt.Next the outbord mount needs fixing.This is the threaded stud from the kit.Wind it in to the seat thread using the shorter threaded end.Next wind the two nuts down the longer thread and 'lock' them together using two spanners in opposing directions.This allows you to then tighten the stud into the seat using the locked nuts.Unlock the nuts using your spanners and wind both off the stud.<br /> <br /> <br /> 8)Again,the seat needs to go in and again,you need to mount the seatbelt and lapbelt on it before you locate it(lean it at an angle).So,on the stud goes firstly the lapbelt bracket,then the 'Top hat' spacer from the kit(again,faces outwards),next the seatbelt mount(check its the right way around!)and finally the flat washer,spring washer and 17mm nut from the kit goes on and is done up tight.Again,the seatbelt buckle should be able to move with a little resistance. <br /> <br /> <br /> 9)Re-fit the passenger seat.Check all fixings are tight!<br /> <br /> <br /> 10)Wrap the shoulder straps around the harness bar one by one making sure they are the correct hand and you end up with the yellow tabs on the inborad sides.<br /> <br /> '''IMPORTANT!'''Ensure you wrap each harness through the buckle in the correct order,see guide:<br /> <br /> http://gallery.seloc.org/albums/userpics/34810/picture%7E0.jpg <br /> <br /> http://gallery.seloc.org/albums/userpics/34810/installation.JPG <br /> <br /> <br /> Adjust the length of each one to suit by doing a test fit of connecting all the harness belts and tightening them up(with you in the seat natch!)<br /> <br /> <br /> 11)Have a cup of tea and a choccy biccy.<br /> <br /> <br /> 12)Sit back and admire handywork. :)</div>

The Bandit https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Harness_fitting(Schroth)&diff=8387 2009-11-22T17:57:50Z

<p>The Bandit: </p> <hr /> <div>'''This is a guide to fitting Schroth Profi ASM II wrap around harnesses to an S2 using the Sector 111 fixing kit which retains your seatbelts.'''<br /> <br /> Tools required:<br /> <br /> *6mm Allen key/socket.<br /> <br /> *5mm Allen key/socket.<br /> <br /> *Ratchet and long extension.<br /> <br /> *U-joint flexible adaptor for sockets,optional but helpful.<br /> <br /> *13mm spanner/socket.<br /> <br /> *2x17mm spanners.<br /> <br /> <br /> 1)Firstly,remove the drivers seat by unbolting the rear two 6mm allen bolts and then the front two 8mm(13mm spanner size)bolts,sliding the seat backwards and forwards makes this easier.Remember to pick up the two small metal 'tabs' at the rear of the seat runners and remember their orientation(they stop the seat going back too far).<br /> You will also need to unbolt the seatbelt from the seat using the 17mm spanner(later cars have two wires attached under the seat for the seatbelt warning light,simply pull apart the connectors and label them).Remove the spacer from the seatbelt mount as this is not used again. <br /> *Protecting the centre console and door sill with blankets also stops you scratching/marking them when the seat comes out /voe<br /> <br /> <br /> 2)Correctly orientate your harnesses.The release buckles sit on both 'inboard' sides(closest to centre console)and the shoulder belts MUST have the yellow tags on the 'inboard' sides also.'''THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT!!''' *Note* the shoulder belts are left and right handed,get them the right way around!<br /> <br /> <br /> 3)Next,lay the drivers seat on a blanket on the floor with the seatbelt buckle facing you('inboard' side).Undo the 6mm allen bolt and remove.Pop out the spacer,buckle and spring.Loosen the three 5mm allen bolts around the seat bracket.<br /> Now comes the fiddly bit.Open the Sector 111 fixing kit and identify the flat washers.Between the seat bracket and seat you will need firstly,a flat washer,then the Schroth lapbelt bracket(with lapbelt attached,obviously!),next the Tapered spacer(faces outwards),and finally the seatbelt buckle.Align them all with a screwdriver through the hole,then push the allen bolt back in and tighten up making VERY sure its not cross-threaded first.Tighten the three allen bolts back up.Spin the seat around and loosen the three allen bolts that side.Ensure the seatbelt buckle can still move albeit with a little resistance.Check all fixings are tight! <br /> <br /> <br /> 4)Now the seat needs to go back in.But before you locate it,you need to attach the seatbelt and lapbelt.So,again you should have a flat washer and lapbelt bracket but this time there is the flat spacer from the kit that goes in,followed by the seatbelt mount(ensure its the right way around),again locate all together centrally and bolt to the seat using the original bolt.<br /> <br /> <br /> 5)Re-fit the seat by reversing step 1.Check all fixings are tight!<br /> <br /> <br /> 6)Now the passenger side seat needs to come out,its a little more fiddly than the drivers side as you can't move it back or forth but step 1 is repeated again.<br /> <br /> <br /> 7)Repeat the steps in 3 for fitting the inboard lapbelt.Next the outbord mount needs fixing.This is the threaded stud from the kit.Wind it in to the seat thread using the shorter threaded end.Next wind the two nuts down the longer thread and 'lock' them together using two spanners in opposing directions.This allows you to then tighten the stud into the seat using the locked nuts.Unlock the nuts using your spanners and wind both off the stud.<br /> <br /> <br /> 8)Again,the seat needs to go in and again,you need to mount the seatbelt and lapbelt on it before you locate it(lean it at an angle).So,on the stud goes firstly the lapbelt bracket,then the 'Top hat' spacer from the kit(again,faces outwards),next the seatbelt mount(check its the right way around!)and finally the flat washer,spring washer and 17mm nut from the kit goes on and is done up tight.Again,the seatbelt buckle should be able to move with a little resistance. <br /> <br /> <br /> 9)Re-fit the passenger seat.Check all fixings are tight!<br /> <br /> <br /> 10)Wrap the shoulder straps around the harness bar one by one making sure they are the correct hand and you end up with the yellow tabs on the inborad sides.<br /> '''IMPORTANT!'''Ensure you wrap each harness through the buckle in the correct order,see guide.<br /> <br /> http://gallery.seloc.org/albums/userpics/34810/picture%7E0.jpg <br /> <br /> http://gallery.seloc.org/albums/userpics/34810/installation.JPG <br /> <br /> <br /> Adjust the length of each one to suit by doing a test fit of connecting all the harness belts and tightening them up(with you in the seat natch!)<br /> <br /> <br /> 11)Have a cup of tea and a choccy biccy.<br /> <br /> <br /> 12)Sit back and admire handywork. :)</div>

The Bandit https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Harness_fitting(Schroth)&diff=8386 2009-11-22T17:56:11Z

<p>The Bandit: </p> <hr /> <div>'''This is a guide to fitting Schroth Profi ASM II wrap around harnesses to an S2 using the Sector 111 fixing kit which retains your seatbelts.'''<br /> <br /> *Tools.<br /> <br /> *You will need:<br /> <br /> *6mm Allen key/socket.<br /> <br /> *5mm Allen key/socket.<br /> <br /> *Ratchet and long extension.<br /> <br /> *U-joint flexible adaptor for sockets,optional but helpful.<br /> <br /> *13mm spanner/socket.<br /> <br /> *2x17mm spanners.<br /> <br /> <br /> 1)Firstly,remove the drivers seat by unbolting the rear two 6mm allen bolts and then the front two 8mm(13mm spanner size)bolts,sliding the seat backwards and forwards makes this easier.Remember to pick up the two small metal 'tabs' at the rear of the seat runners and remember their orientation(they stop the seat going back too far).<br /> You will also need to unbolt the seatbelt from the seat using the 17mm spanner(later cars have two wires attached under the seat for the seatbelt warning light,simply pull apart the connectors and label them).Remove the spacer from the seatbelt mount as this is not used again. <br /> *Protecting the centre console and door sill with blankets also stops you scratching/marking them when the seat comes out /voe*<br /> <br /> <br /> 2)Correctly orientate your harnesses.The release buckles sit on both 'inboard' sides(closest to centre console)and the shoulder belts MUST have the yellow tags on the 'inboard' sides also.THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT!! *Note* the shoulder belts are left and right handed,get them the right way around!<br /> <br /> <br /> 3)Next,lay the drivers seat on a blanket on the floor with the seatbelt buckle facing you('inboard' side).Undo the 6mm allen bolt and remove.Pop out the spacer,buckle and spring.Loosen the three 5mm allen bolts around the seat bracket.<br /> Now comes the fiddly bit.Open the Sector 111 fixing kit and identify the flat washers.Between the seat bracket and seat you will need firstly,a flat washer,then the Schroth lapbelt bracket(with lapbelt attached,obviously!),next the Tapered spacer(faces outwards),and finally the seatbelt buckle.Align them all with a screwdriver through the hole,then push the allen bolt back in and tighten up making VERY sure its not cross-threaded first.Tighten the three allen bolts back up.Spin the seat around and loosen the three allen bolts that side.Ensure the seatbelt buckle can still move albeit with a little resistance.Check all fixings are tight! <br /> <br /> <br /> 4)Now the seat needs to go back in.But before you locate it,you need to attach the seatbelt and lapbelt.So,again you should have a flat washer and lapbelt bracket but this time there is the flat spacer from the kit that goes in,followed by the seatbelt mount(ensure its the right way around),again locate all together centrally and bolt to the seat using the original bolt.<br /> <br /> <br /> 5)Re-fit the seat by reversing step 1.Check all fixings are tight!<br /> <br /> <br /> 6)Now the passenger side seat needs to come out,its a little more fiddly than the drivers side as you can't move it back or forth but step 1 is repeated again.<br /> <br /> <br /> 7)Repeat the steps in 3 for fitting the inboard lapbelt.Next the outbord mount needs fixing.This is the threaded stud from the kit.Wind it in to the seat thread using the shorter threaded end.Next wind the two nuts down the longer thread and 'lock' them together using two spanners in opposing directions.This allows you to then tighten the stud into the seat using the locked nuts.Unlock the nuts using your spanners and wind both off the stud.<br /> <br /> <br /> 8)Again,the seat needs to go in and again,you need to mount the seatbelt and lapbelt on it before you locate it(lean it at an angle).So,on the stud goes firstly the lapbelt bracket,then the 'Top hat' spacer from the kit(again,faces outwards),next the seatbelt mount(check its the right way around!)and finally the flat washer,spring washer and 17mm nut from the kit goes on and is done up tight.Again,the seatbelt buckle should be able to move with a little resistance. <br /> <br /> <br /> 9)Re-fit the passenger seat.Check all fixings are tight!<br /> <br /> <br /> 10)Wrap the shoulder straps around the harness bar one by one making sure they are the correct hand and you end up with the yellow tabs on the inborad sides.<br /> IMPORTANT!Ensure you wrap each harness through the buckle in the correct order,see guide.<br /> <br /> http://gallery.seloc.org/albums/userpics/34810/picture%7E0.jpg <br /> <br /> http://gallery.seloc.org/albums/userpics/34810/installation.JPG <br /> <br /> <br /> Adjust the length of each one to suit by doing a test fit of connecting all the harness belts and tightening them up(with you in the seat natch!)<br /> <br /> <br /> 11)Have a cup of tea and a choccy biccy.<br /> <br /> <br /> 12)Sit back and admire handywork. :)</div>

The Bandit https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Harness_fitting(Schroth)&diff=8385 2009-11-22T17:51:42Z

<p>The Bandit: </p> <hr /> <div>'''This is a guide to fitting Schroth Profi ASM II wrap around harnesses to an S2 using the Sector 111 fixing kit which retains your seatbelts.'''<br /> <br /> *Tools.<br /> <br /> *You will need:<br /> <br /> *6mm Allen key/socket.<br /> <br /> *5mm Allen key/socket.<br /> <br /> *Ratchet and long extension.<br /> <br /> *U-joint flexible adaptor for sockets,optional but helpful.<br /> <br /> *13mm spanner/socket.<br /> <br /> *2x17mm spanners.<br /> <br /> <br /> 1)Firstly,remove the drivers seat by unbolting the rear two 6mm allen bolts and then the front two 8mm(13mm spanner size)bolts,sliding the seat backwards and forwards makes this easier.Remember to pick up the two small metal 'tabs' at the rear of the seat runners and remember their orientation(they stop the seat going back too far).<br /> You will also need to unbolt the seatbelt from the seat using the 17mm spanner(later cars have two wires attached under the seat for the seatbelt warning light,simply pull apart the connectors and label them).Remove the spacer from the seatbelt mount as this is not used again. <br /> *Protecting the centre console and door sill with blankets also stops you scratching/marking them when the seat comes out /voe*<br /> <br /> <br /> 2)Correctly orientate your harnesses.The release buckles sit on both 'inboard' sides(closest to centre console)and the shoulder belts MUST have the yellow tags on the 'inboard' sides also.THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT!! *Note* the shoulder belts are left and right handed,get them the right way around!<br /> <br /> <br /> 3)Next,lay the drivers seat on a blanket on the floor with the seatbelt buckle facing you('inboard' side).Undo the 6mm allen bolt and remove.Pop out the spacer,buckle and spring.Loosen the three 5mm allen bolts around the seat bracket.<br /> Now comes the fiddly bit.Open the Sector 111 fixing kit and identify the flat washers.Between the seat bracket and seat you will need firstly,a flat washer,then the Schroth lapbelt bracket(with lapbelt attached,obviously!),next the Tapered spacer(faces outwards),and finally the seatbelt buckle.Align them all with a screwdriver through the hole,then push the allen bolt back in and tighten up making VERY sure its not cross-threaded first.Tighten the three allen bolts back up.Spin the seat around and loosen the three allen bolts that side.Ensure the seatbelt buckle can still move albeit with a little resistance.Check all fixings are tight! <br /> <br /> <br /> 4)Now the seat needs to go back in.But before you locate it,you need to attach the seatbelt and lapbelt.So,again you should have a flat washer and lapbelt bracket but this time there is the flat spacer from the kit that goes in,followed by the seatbelt mount(ensure its the right way around),again locate all together centrally and bolt to the seat using the original bolt.<br /> <br /> <br /> 5)Re-fit the seat by reversing step 1.Check all fixings are tight!<br /> <br /> <br /> 6)Now the passenger side seat needs to come out,its a little more fiddly than the drivers side as you can't move it back or forth but step 1 is repeated again.<br /> <br /> <br /> 7)Repeat the steps in 3 for fitting the inboard lapbelt.Next the outbord mount needs fixing.This is the threaded stud from the kit.Wind it in to the seat thread using the shorter threaded end.Next wind the two nuts down the longer thread and 'lock' them together using two spanners in opposing directions.This allows you to then tighten the stud into the seat using the locked nuts.Unlock the nuts using your spanners and wind both off the stud.<br /> <br /> <br /> 8)Again,the seat needs to go in and again,you need to mount the seatbelt and lapbelt on it before you locate it(lean it at an angle).So,on the stud goes firstly the lapbelt bracket,then the 'Top hat' spacer from the kit(again,faces outwards),next the seatbelt mount(check its the right way around!)and finally the flat washer,spring washer and 17mm nut from the kit goes on and is done up tight.Again,the seatbelt buckle should be able to move with a little resistance. <br /> <br /> <br /> 9)Re-fit the passenger seat.Check all fixings are tight!<br /> <br /> <br /> 10)Wrap the shoulder straps around the harness bar one by one making sure they are the correct hand and you end up with the yellow tabs on the inborad sides.<br /> IMPORTANT!Ensure you wrap each harness through the buckle in the correct order,see guide.<br /> <br /> [[[img=500x224]http://gallery.seloc.org/albums/userpics/34810/picture%7E0.jpg[/img] <br /> <br /> [img=799x447]http://gallery.seloc.org/albums/userpics/34810/installation.JPG[/img] <br /> ]]<br /> <br /> Adjust the length of each one to suit by doing a test fit of connecting all the harness belts and tightening them up(with you in the seat natch!)<br /> <br /> <br /> 11)Have a cup of tea and a choccy biccy.<br /> <br /> <br /> 12)Sit back and admire handywork. :)</div>

The Bandit https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Harness_fitting(Schroth)&diff=8384 2009-11-22T17:46:00Z

<p>The Bandit: </p> <hr /> <div>'''This is a guide to fitting Schroth Profi ASM II wrap around harnesses to an S2 using the Sector 111 fixing kit which retains your seatbelts.'''<br /> <br /> *Tools.<br /> <br /> *You will need:<br /> <br /> *6mm Allen key/socket.<br /> <br /> *5mm Allen key/socket.<br /> <br /> *Ratchet and long extension.<br /> <br /> *U-joint flexible adaptor for sockets,optional but helpful.<br /> <br /> *13mm spanner/socket.<br /> <br /> *2x17mm spanners.<br /> <br /> <br /> 1)Firstly,remove the drivers seat by unbolting the rear two 6mm allen bolts and then the front two 8mm(13mm spanner size)bolts,sliding the seat backwards and forwards makes this easier.Remember to pick up the two small metal 'tabs' at the rear of the seat runners and remember their orientation(they stop the seat going back too far).<br /> You will also need to unbolt the seatbelt from the seat using the 17mm spanner(later cars have two wires attached under the seat for the seatbelt warning light,simply pull apart the connectors and label them).Remove the spacer from the seatbelt mount as this is not used again. <br /> *Protecting the centre console and door sill with blankets also stops you scratching/marking them when the seat comes out /voe*<br /> <br /> <br /> 2)Correctly orientate your harnesses.The release buckles sit on both 'inboard' sides(closest to centre console)and the shoulder belts MUST have the yellow tags on the 'inboard' sides also.THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT!! *Note* the shoulder belts are left and right handed,get them the right way around!<br /> <br /> <br /> 3)Next,lay the drivers seat on a blanket on the floor with the seatbelt buckle facing you('inboard' side).Undo the 6mm allen bolt and remove.Pop out the spacer,buckle and spring.Loosen the three 5mm allen bolts around the seat bracket.<br /> Now comes the fiddly bit.Open the Sector 111 fixing kit and identify the flat washers.Between the seat bracket and seat you will need firstly,a flat washer,then the Schroth lapbelt bracket(with lapbelt attached,obviously!),next the Tapered spacer(faces outwards),and finally the seatbelt buckle.Align them all with a screwdriver through the hole,then push the allen bolt back in and tighten up making VERY sure its not cross-threaded first.Tighten the three allen bolts back up.Spin the seat around and loosen the three allen bolts that side.Ensure the seatbelt buckle can still move albeit with a little resistance.Check all fixings are tight! <br /> <br /> <br /> 4)Now the seat needs to go back in.But before you locate it,you need to attach the seatbelt and lapbelt.So,again you should have a flat washer and lapbelt bracket but this time there is the flat spacer from the kit that goes in,followed by the seatbelt mount(ensure its the right way around),again locate all together centrally and bolt to the seat using the original bolt.<br /> <br /> <br /> 5)Re-fit the seat by reversing step 1.Check all fixings are tight!<br /> <br /> <br /> 6)Now the passenger side seat needs to come out,its a little more fiddly than the drivers side as you can't move it back or forth but step 1 is repeated again.<br /> <br /> <br /> 7)Repeat the steps in 3 for fitting the inboard lapbelt.Next the outbord mount needs fixing.This is the threaded stud from the kit.Wind it in to the seat thread using the shorter threaded end.Next wind the two nuts down the longer thread and 'lock' them together using two spanners in opposing directions.This allows you to then tighten the stud into the seat using the locked nuts.Unlock the nuts using your spanners and wind both off the stud.<br /> <br /> <br /> 8)Again,the seat needs to go in and again,you need to mount the seatbelt and lapbelt on it before you locate it(lean it at an angle).So,on the stud goes firstly the lapbelt bracket,then the 'Top hat' spacer from the kit(again,faces outwards),next the seatbelt mount(check its the right way around!)and finally the flat washer,spring washer and 17mm nut from the kit goes on and is done up tight.Again,the seatbelt buckle should be able to move with a little resistance. <br /> <br /> <br /> 9)Re-fit the passenger seat.Check all fixings are tight!<br /> <br /> <br /> 10)Wrap the shoulder straps around the harness bar one by one making sure they are the correct hand and you end up with the yellow tabs on the inborad sides.<br /> IMPORTANT!Ensure you wrap each harness through the buckle in the correct order,see guide.<br /> Adjust the length of each one to suit by doing a test fit of connecting all the harness belts and tightening them up(with you in the seat natch!)<br /> <br /> <br /> 11)Have a cup of tea and a choccy biccy.<br /> <br /> <br /> 12)Sit back and admire handywork. :)</div>

The Bandit https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Harness_fitting(Schroth)&diff=8383 2009-11-22T17:41:04Z

<p>The Bandit: </p> <hr /> <div>'''This is a guide to fitting Schroth Profi ASM II wrap around harnesses to an S2 using the Sector 111 fixing kit which retains your seatbelts.'''<br /> <br /> Tools.<br /> You will need:<br /> 6mm Allen key/socket.<br /> 5mm Allen key/socket.<br /> Ratchet and long extension.<br /> U-joint flexible adaptor for sockets,optional but helpful.<br /> 13mm spanner/socket.<br /> 2x17mm spanners.<br /> <br /> 1)Firstly,remove the drivers seat by unbolting the rear two 6mm allen bolts and then the front two 8mm(13mm spanner size)bolts,sliding the seat backwards and forwards makes this easier.Remember to pick up the two small metal 'tabs' at the rear of the seat runners and remember their orientation(they stop the seat going back too far).<br /> You will also need to unbolt the seatbelt from the seat using the 17mm spanner(later cars have two wires attached under the seat for the seatbelt warning light,simply pull apart the connectors and label them).Remove the spacer from the seatbelt mount as this is not used again. <br /> *Protecting the centre console and door sill with blankets also stops you scratching/marking them when the seat comes out /voe.*<br /> <br /> 2)Correctly orientate your harnesses.The release buckles sit on both 'inboard' sides(closest to centre console)and the shoulder belts MUST have the yellow tags on the 'inboard' sides also.THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT!! *Note* the shoulder belts are left and right handed,get them the right way around!<br /> <br /> 3)Next,lay the drivers seat on a blanket on the floor with the seatbelt buckle facing you('inboard' side).Undo the 6mm allen bolt and remove.Pop out the spacer,buckle and spring.Loosen the three 5mm allen bolts around the seat bracket.<br /> Now comes the fiddly bit.Open the Sector 111 fixing kit and identify the flat washers.Between the seat bracket and seat you will need firstly,a flat washer,then the Schroth lapbelt bracket(with lapbelt attached,obviously!),next the Tapered spacer(faces outwards),and finally the seatbelt buckle.Align them all with a screwdriver through the hole,then push the allen bolt back in and tighten up making VERY sure its not cross-threaded first.Tighten the three allen bolts back up.Spin the seat around and loosen the three allen bolts that side.Ensure the seatbelt buckle can still move albeit with a little resistance.Check all fixings are tight! <br /> <br /> 4)Now the seat needs to go back in.But before you locate it,you need to attach the seatbelt and lapbelt.So,again you should have a flat washer and lapbelt bracket but this time there is the flat spacer from the kit that goes in,followed by the seatbelt mount(ensure its the right way around),again locate all together centrally and bolt to the seat using the original bolt.<br /> <br /> 5)Re-fit the seat by reversing step 1.Check all fixings are tight!<br /> <br /> 6)Now the passenger side seat needs to come out,its a little more fiddly than the drivers side as you can't move it back or forth but step 1 is repeated again.<br /> <br /> 7)Repeat the steps in 3 for fitting the inboard lapbelt.Next the outbord mount needs fixing.This is the threaded stud from the kit.Wind it in to the seat thread using the shorter threaded end.Next wind the two nuts down the longer thread and 'lock' them together using two spanners in opposing directions.This allows you to then tighten the stud into the seat using the locked nuts.Unlock the nuts using your spanners and wind both off the stud.<br /> <br /> 8)Again,the seat needs to go in and again,you need to mount the seatbelt and lapbelt on it before you locate it(lean it at an angle).So,on the stud goes firstly the lapbelt bracket,then the 'Top hat' spacer from the kit(again,faces outwards),next the seatbelt mount(check its the right way around!)and finally the flat washer,spring washer and 17mm nut from the kit goes on and is done up tight.Again,the seatbelt buckle should be able to move with a little resistance. <br /> <br /> 9)Re-fit the passenger seat.Check all fixings are tight!<br /> <br /> 10)Wrap the shoulder straps around the harness bar one by one making sure they are the correct hand and you end up with the yellow tabs on the inborad sides.<br /> IMPORTANT!Ensure you wrap each harness through the buckle in the correct order,see guide.<br /> Adjust the length of each one to suit by doing a test fit of connecting all the harness belts and tightening them up(with you in the seat natch!)<br /> <br /> 11)Have a cup of tea and a choccy biccy.<br /> <br /> 12)Sit back and admire handywork. :)</div>

The Bandit https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Toyota_engines&diff=7761 2009-04-20T21:37:51Z

<p>The Bandit: </p> <hr /> <div>'''Toyota Engines'''<br /> <br /> <br /> The Toyota engines are fitted to the later Elise S (06 on) / 111R (04 on) / Elise R / Elise SC and all Series 2 Exiges.<br /> <br /> <br /> They are generally reliable and pretty robust, however the 2ZZ-FE (Elise R / 111R / Elise SC / Exige) engine has been known to have problems with oil starvation at high corner speeds (a retro fit baffled sump will cure this), camshaft failure (excess lobe wear) and clutch failure.Its worth pointing out these failures are extremely rare considering the amount of cars on the road.<br /> <br /> <br /> The 1ZZ-FE has only been fitted to the Elise since 2006 and there have been no known problem areas as yet.<br /> <br /> On the 08MY cars larger hose clips have been fitted to the radiator hoses after a spate of earlier cars blowing rad hoses off. <br /> <br /> <br /> The Toyota engine and subframe weighs more than the equivalent K series which obviously affects the performance and C02 figures are much higher.</div>

The Bandit https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Toyota_engines&diff=7713 2009-03-02T22:23:56Z

<p>The Bandit: </p> <hr /> <div>'''Toyota Engines'''<br /> <br /> <br /> The Toyota engines are fitted to the later Elise S (06 on) / 111R (04 on) / Elise R / Elise SC and all Series 2 Exiges.<br /> <br /> <br /> They are generally reliable and pretty robust, however the 2ZZ-FE (Elise R / 111R / Elise SC / Exige) engine has been known to have problems with oil starvation at high corner speeds (a retro fit baffled sump will cure this), camshaft failure (excess lobe wear) and clutch failure.<br /> <br /> <br /> The 1ZZ-FE has only been fitted to the Elise since 2006 and there have been no known problem areas as yet.<br /> <br /> <br /> The Toyota engine and subframe weighs more than the equivalent K series which obviously affects the performance and C02 figures are much higher.</div>

The Bandit https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Toyota_engines&diff=7618 2009-01-06T10:08:01Z

<p>The Bandit: </p> <hr /> <div>'''Toyota Engines'''<br /> <br /> The Toyota engines are fitted to the later Elise S(06 on)/111R(04 on)/Elise R/Elise SC and all Mk2 Exiges.<br /> They are generally reliable and pretty robust,however the 2zz-fe(Elise R/111R/Elise SC/Exige)engine has been known to have problems with oil starvation at high corner speeds(a retro fit baffled sump will cure this),camshaft failure(excess lobe wear)and clutch failure.<br /> <br /> The 1zz-fe has only been fitted to the Elise since 2006 and there have been no known problem areas as yet.<br /> <br /> The Toyata engine and subframe weighs more than the equivalent K series which obviously affects the performance and C02 figures are much higher.</div>

The Bandit https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Toyota_engines&diff=7617 2009-01-06T10:04:07Z

<p>The Bandit: </p> <hr /> <div>'''Toyota Engines'''<br /> <br /> The Toyota engines are fitted to the later Elise S(06 on)/111R(04 on)/Elise R and all Mk2 Exiges.<br /> They are generally reliable and pretty robust,however the 2zz(Elise R/111R/Exige)engine has been known to have problems with oil starvation at high corner speeds(a retro fit baffled sump will cure this),camshaft failure(excess lobe wear)and clutch failure.<br /> <br /> The 1zz has only been fitted to the Elise since 2006 and there have been no known problem areas as yet.<br /> <br /> The Toyata engine and subframe weighs more than the equivalent K series which obviously affects the performance and C02 figures are much higher.</div>

The Bandit