TechWiki - User contributions [en-gb]

Template:Seloc memberlist link

2007-05-18T17:03:07Z

Webmaster:

<noinclude>Template used to provide a link to the SELOC forum member's profile page. Call the template and pass a member's username thus:

<nowiki>{{seloc memberlist link|username}}</nowiki>
</noinclude><includeonly>[http://forums.seloc.org/m/{{{1}}} {{{1}}}]</includeonly>

Normal running temperature

2007-05-15T16:03:43Z

Webmaster: Normall running temperature moved to Normal running temperature: spelling

Listed below are temperature ranges from by SELOC members from their [[stack]] display within the car.

{| border=1 cellpadding=5 cellspacing=0
! Model !! Engine !! Modifications from Standard !! Motorway (70mph) type crusing range (deg C)
|-
| S2 111S || 1.8 Rover 'K' || || 89-91
|-
| S2 111S || 1.8 Rover 'K' || Eliseparts Hi-Pressure Alu rad || 85-86
|}

== Fan ==
The service manual states the fans at the front should automatically switch on when the coolant temperature rises above XX deg C. The temperature should then fall with the fans being switched off at YY deg C.

== Temperature sensors ==
There are two temperature sensors on the Elise. One for the stack display and one for the ECU.

[[Category:Engine Cooling]]

User:Cocjh1/Icon Based Main Page

2007-04-17T20:45:14Z

Webmaster:

I like the main over on [http://gentoo-wiki.com/Main_Page Gentoo Wiki] and thought about trying to use the icon idea here.

Starting with icons for:

{| style="width:100%"
|{{/Click with text | image=icon_howto.png | link=:Category:DIY | title=HOW TOs | description=DIY 'How To' guides for maintaining your Elise }}
|{{/Click with text | image=icon_tools.jpg | link=:Category:Tools | title=Tools | description=Tools }}
|{{/Click with text | image=icon_engine.gif | link=:Category:Engine | title=Engine | description=Engine specific pages }}
|-
|{{/Click with text | image=icon_suspension.jpg | link=:Category:Suspension | title=Suspension | description=Suspension related help, both front and rear }}
|{{/Click with text | image=Icon_brakes.gif| link=:Category:Brakes | title=Brakes | description=Page relating to all aspects of the brakes}}
|{{/Click with text | image=icon_exhaust.jpg | link=:Category:Exhaust | title=Exhaust | description=All about the exhaust}}
|-
|{{/Click with text | image=Icon_Aerodynamics.jpg| link=:Category:Aerodynamics | title=Aerodynamics | description=Page relating to all aspects of Aerodynamics}}
|{{/Click with text | image=icon_Body.jpg | link=:Category:Body | title=Body | description=All about the Body}}
|{{/Click with text | image=Icon_Chassis.JPG| link=:Category:Chassis | title=Chassis | description=Page relating to all aspects of the Chassis}}
|-
|{{/Click with text | image=Icon_Electrical.jpg| link=:Category:Electrical | title=Electrical | description=Page relating to all aspects of Electrical Items}}
|{{/Click with text | image=icon_Engine Cooling.jpg | link=:Category:Engine Cooling | title=Engine Cooling | description=All about Engine Cooling}}
|{{/Click with text | image=icon_Fluid.jpg | link=:Category:Fluid | title=Fluid | description=All Fluid Related Articles}}
|-
|{{/Click with text | image=Icon_Elise.jpg| link=:Category:Lotus Elise | title=Lotus Elise| description=Page relating to all aspects of the Lotus Elise S1 and S2}}
|{{/Click with text | image=icon_Lotus Esprit.jpg | link=:Category:Lotus Esprit | title=Lotus Esprit | description=All about the Lotus Esprit}}
|{{/Click with text | image=Icon_Lotus Excel.jpg| link=:Category:Lotus Excel | title=Lotus Excel | description=All about the Lotus Excel}}
|-
|{{/Click with text | image=icon_Misc.jpg | link=:Category:Misc | title=Misc | description=All Misc Pages}}
|{{/Click with text | image=Icon_S1.jpg| link=:Category:S1 | title=Elise S1 | description=All pages relating to the Elise '''S1'''}}
|{{/Click with text | image=Icon_S2.jpg| link=:Category:S2 | title=Elise S2 | description=All pages relating to the Elise '''S2'''}}
|-
|{{/Click with text | image=icon_Safety.jpg| link=:Category:Safety | title=Safety | description=Page relating to all aspects of Safety Items}}
|{{/Click with text | image=icon_Suppliers.jpg | link=:Category:Suppliers | title=Suppliers | description=Parts Supplier Pages}}
|{{/Click with text | image=icon_Tools.jpg | link=:Category:Tools | title=Tools | description=All the tools you may need}}
|-
|-
|{{/Click with text | image=icon_Transmission.jpg| link=:Category:Transmission | title=Transmission | description=Pages relating to all aspects of the Transmission}}
|{{/Click with text | image=icon_Wheels.jpg | link=:Category:Wheels and tyres | title=Wheels and tyres | description=All Wheel and tyre pages}}
|}

Remove the rear undertray

2007-04-12T19:18:08Z

Webmaster:

{{Infobox Timetools
|time = 10mins
|tools = 5mm Allen Key, 8mm Socket, Wrench
}}

The rear undertray, or rear tray, needs to be removed for most jobs involving the [[Exhaust silencers|exhaust system]]. It's a relatively simple job and can be done without needing to [[jacking points|jack the car]]. There are in fact two rear undertrays (back and middle) which are bolted together (a third being the [[remove the front undertray|front undertray]]).
{{clr}}

==S1==
How is this different?

== S2 ==
The rear undertray is actually two trays bolted together. Although it is only the rearmost of the two trays that need to be removed, it is sometimes simpler to remove both together.

=== Just the rearmost tray ===
[[Image:boltorder.JPG|thumb|left|Bolt removal order]]
Recommended Removal order of the rear under tray bolts are: -
# Remove all the 'RED' doted bolts first, they are 8MM.
# Remove the 'GREEN' dotted bolt, also 8MM.
# Finally remove the 'BLUE' doted Allen bolts.
# Don't forget when you replace the tray that the back tray goes under the middle tray, not on top of.
{{clr}}

<gallery>
Image:TRAY1.JPG|8MM bolt removal, this is one of 12
Image:TRAY2.JPG|All 8MM bolts removed
Image:TRAY3.JPG|One of the two back Allen 5MM bolts
Image:TRAY4.JPG|Removing the 5MM Allen bolts
</gallery>

[[Category:DIY]]

Indicators

2007-04-12T19:15:31Z

Webmaster:

===Indicators===

S2 Indicators

'''Lotus Part Numbers:'''

L\H: B117M0018F

R\H: B117M0017F

and they are £62.50

The clips can break on the S2 indicators making them 'pop' out, and your indicator unit will need replacing, or if you're a [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Skinflint skinflint] like SELOC member [http://forums.seloc.org/m/dobbin Dobbin] you can use this handy trick:

*Drill a hole in what's left of the bottom indicator tab and then feed a length of nylon shock cord through it.

[[Image:cord1.jpg|thumb|left|Hole Drilled, Cord Through.]]
{{clr}}

*Both ends fed around the driving light and passed through one of those springy toggles you get on jackets.
[http://shop.acesupplies.co.uk/acatalog/Webbing_and_Cord_Fittings.html Toggles]
[[Image:toggle.jpg]]

Then tied together with a cable tie around the driving light.

[[Image:cord2.jpg|thumb|left|Cord Around Driving Light.]]
{{clr}}

*Once the indicator is popped back in you can then pull the cord as tight as you like.

[[Image:cord3.jpg|thumb|left|Pulling The Cord Tight Around The Driving Light.]]
{{clr}}

*You can just see the nylon cord, you can usually tuck it well out of the way.

[[Image:cord4.jpg|thumb|left|Job's A Carrot.]]
{{clr}}

Weight reduction

2007-04-11T18:48:10Z

Webmaster:

__NOTOC__

{| border=1 cellpadding=5 cellspacing=2
|-
| Original Weight (kg) || Aftermarket product and weight (kg)
|-
| colspan=2 |
=== Brakes ===
|-
| S1 MMC 8 kg || EBC 6 kg
|-
| S2 Drilled 9 kg || Ali bells 8.9 kg
|-
| colspan=2 |
=== Exhaust ===
|-
| S1 Standard 20 kg || S1 Eliseparts Sport Exhaust 25 kg
|}

==Elise Weight Reduction==

S1 Alarm Fob 20 grams

'''Carbon clams''' are hideous money compared to the weight saved, and don't save much at all unless they are autoclaved or vacuum formed. Benetec CF Front Clam 4.95 kg Vs std at 15 kg but cost £58k :(

Be very wary of '''polycarbonate side screens'''. They are very flexible and, with the roof fitted, flare out dramatically at speeds above 60MPH.

Early '''rear arch liners''' are 2.8 kg. Later liners are lighter.

Removing the GRP where the reversing light and fog lights are, along with the grilles and the reversing light saves about 1 kg.

The '''rubber seals around all four wheel arch liners''' (assuming you haven't ditched the arch liners) are about 200g each, and most of the boot lid seal can be removed with just token parts left in to prevent rattle giving about 1 kg of saving.

'''Exhaust''' Exige/111R Catback: 13 kg. Stage 1: 11.8 kg (saves 1.2 kg). Stage 2: 8.2 kg (saves 4.8 kg). Quicksilver Titanium: 5.2 kg (saves 7.8 kg)

'''S1 Weight Reduction'''

-12.5 kg Titanium Exhaust system (std 16 kg vs 3.5 kg)

-12.2 kg Carbon fibre track seats (2.4 kg vs 8.5 kg) x2

-11.2 kg MMC discs instead of iron disks (2.7 kg vs 5.5 kg each)

-8.65 kg Race battery (2.7 kg vs 11.35 kg)

-7.25 kg Lexan front window (5 kg vs 12.25 kg)

-6.8 kg Speedline Magnesium instead of std AWI 5 spoke (25 kg vs 31.8 kg)

-6.55 kg Alloy Fuel Tank

-4.4 kg Carbon fibre fixed seat frames(2 kg and 3 kg vs 0.3 kg)

-4.4 kg Remove the door reinforcement on 2 doors

-4 kg Remove radio and speakers (radio ~1.4 kg speakers ~1.6 kg)

-4 kg Elisparts solid 4-2-1 manifold 6 kg v std 10 kg

-3.695 kg Soft top and mountings (Top 1.807 kg, siderails 1.888 kg)

-3.3 kg Lightweight Flywheel

-2.71 kg Cat Replacement Pipe (flexi stainless) (1.587 kg Vs 4.3 kg) mild steel 1.8 kg

-2.55 kg Lightweight alternator (3.35 kg vs 5.9 kg)

-2.2 kg Billet aluminium crankshaft pulley

-2.136 kg Back window

-2 kg Alu boot lit instead of GRP (Glass Reinforced Plastic)

-2 kg Alu top engine mount

-1.994 kg Rollbar cover

-1.697 kg Heat shield baggage compartment

-1.388 kg Dressed baggage compartment

-1 kg Leather sill covers

-1 kg Carbon fibre steering wheel (1.7 kg vs 0.7 kg)

-0.872 kg Alu ball joint mounts (1.308 kg vs 0.436 kg)

-0.8 kg Footwell divider

-0.6 kg Handbrake and gear stick cover

-0.55 kg Passenger footrest

-0.5 kg Front Mud flaps

-0.4 kg Alarm siren

-0.23 kg Inner Rear view mirror

-1/2 of std Lightweight Starter Motor

-2/3 of std Polycarbonate / perspex rear/side/front screen

===Other sources of Information===

[http://forums.seloc.org/m/SteveB SteveB]

http://www.340r.net/technical/weight/weight.htm

http://forums.seloc.org/t/91178

http://www.elisetalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=27701

[http://www.eliseparts.com/shop/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=128 Eliseparts Weight Reduction Section]

Side mirrors

2007-04-11T18:14:08Z

Webmaster:

===ELISE SIDE MIRRORS===

The Elise S1, S2, Exige and the new Europa all share the same side mirrors.

(340R was different)

They are parts bin refugees from the Rover days and were standard fitment on the Rover Mini Metro.

[[image:image1.jpg|thumb|left|Mirror Disassembled]]
{{clr}}
They are shared also with the MGF and MGTF and all the Vauxhall VX 220s. If you smash one then a breakers yard will probably be a good cheap source but you will have to get them body match sprayed which is pretty expensive for such a small job . The actual glass itself is about £25 each from Lotus. Occasionally on e-bay you can find singles or pairs of the whole assembly usually under Rover or Metro. No Lotus Elise variant ever had electric mirrors or heated mirrors but some Rovers did as did some MGs so beware if you are buying from a breaker unless you really are a chav and a dab hand with electrics.

[[Image:sidemirror.jpg|thumb|left|Replacement Mulivex Mirror]]
{{clr}}
One other safety option is replacement glass from MultiVex. These are available in pairs and DIY bonded over your existing mirrors in a few minutes and are increasingly convex towards the outside and give a much wider field of view than the essentially flat standard fitment. They are particularly popular with track day enthusiasts as they eliminate the notorious blind spot. Also useful on motorways and when travelling abroad.

MultiVex have a website at [http://www.multivex.co.uk Multivex.co.uk] explaining more. Now stocked by the Bell and Colvill shop, Elise Parts and Hangar 111. Check the [http://www.seloc.org/benefits.php benefits pages] for the latest discounts.

Jacking accidents

2007-02-18T22:26:24Z

Webmaster:

Using the incorrect jack or working on the car whilst incorrectly supported with [[axle stands]] can be costly.

<gallery>
Image:S2 fallen off scissor jack.jpg|S2 fallen off trolley jack (scissor jack only in place as emergency measure to rescue the situation).
Image:S1 fallen off trolley jack.jpg|S1 fallen off trolley jack
</gallery>

[[Category:DIY]]

Engine Mounts

2007-02-18T22:25:24Z

Webmaster:

[[Image:Bernard_k_series_engine_mount.jpg|thumb|left|Bernard 'K' series engine mount]]

'''Engine mounts''' secure the engine to the [[chassis]].

NVH = [[Noise Vibration Harshness]]

== Forum threads ==
* http://forums.seloc.org/t/108077
* http://forums.seloc.org/t/102568

User talk:Chris

2006-04-28T09:10:08Z

Webmaster:

Thanks for your help Chris, excellent work!

Idle Air Control Valve

2006-02-28T21:58:47Z

Webmaster:

==Idle Air Control Valve==
The IACV regulates idle speed of the engine, raising and lowering it as needed. The ECU does this by opening and closing a valve to allow more or less airflow into the intake manifold when the throttle is closed.

K-Series engined Elises use a Rover IACV (Part No. MLZ100090)

[[Image:IACV.jpg|thumb|none|150px|Idle Air Control Valve (K-Series)]]

TechWiki:General disclaimer

2006-02-17T16:11:50Z

Webmaster:

All contributions to this website are the personal opinions of the individual members concerned and do not necessarily reflect the views of the Club or its Directors unless specifically stated.
The Club accepts no responsibility for advice or information given in this website or by its members.

Throttle Linkage

2006-02-12T00:52:06Z

Webmaster:

[[Image:Throttlelinkage1.jpg|thumb|150px|left]][[Image:Throttlelinkage1a.jpg|thumb|150px|Step1: Removing the baseplate screws|left]]Step 1 Some of you may stumble here because the two screws holding the base plate on can be very tight and unless you are an Ironman which I am not you won't be able to apply enough torque with a normal screwdriver to get the screws undone. I used an AEG torque application device for this step. You can see me removing one of the screws with the AEG on the left hand side.

Step 2 - Yvo's instructions say you should remove the throttle return spring so the base plate can come out
but I found that it was not necessary, so step 2 must only apply to left hand drive cars. You can see the throttle return spring on the right hand side of the photograph.

 
[[Image:Throttlelinkage3.jpg|thumb|150px|Step3|left]]The base plate was lifted away and positioned where I could work on it. I noticed that there has been a lot of scraping going on where the link has been rubbing on the base plate for the last 48,000 miles.

 
[[Image:Throttlelinkage4.jpg|thumb|150px|Step4: I decided to disconnect the throttle cable side first so a Phillips screwdriver on one side and a 7mm socket on the other.|left]]
[[Image:Throttlelinkage4a.jpg|thumb|150px|And these are the components that came apart.|left]]
[[Image:Throttlelinkage5.jpg|thumb|150px|Step5|left]]Step 5 - My smallest open ended spanner is 8mm, which was too big for the next step because the ball joint required a 6mm open ended spanner on the back side of the linkage.

I used long nosed pliers to grasp the back of the ball joint and used an 7mm socket to undo the nut. It wasn't a problem because the nut was only nipped up.

See the photograph in step 8 showing the position of the pliers.

 
[[Image:Throttlelinkage6.jpg|thumb|150px|Step6: The throttle cable came out easily enough. I just pulled the cable assembly apart to expose the inner core and the cable slid through the slot in the base plate.|left]]
[[Image:Throttlelinkage6a.jpg|thumb|150px|6a: The assembly was then free from the car. I noticed the pivot nut was loose. I hadn't touched it and I don't know how long it has been like that.|left]]
[[Image:Throttlelinkage6b.jpg|thumb|150px|6b: Dismantling the original linkage from the base plate was easy, no tools needed here for me.|left]]

 
[[Image:Throttlelinkage7a.jpg|thumb|150px|Step7a: The next series of photographs show the new linkage being assembled to the base plate using a combination of new steel washers and an original steel washer for extra clearance. My base plate has a stud, so I didn't need to use the screw that was supplied in the kit. First of all a new M4X12 washer went on.|left]]
[[Image:Throttlelinkage7b.jpg|thumb|150px|7b: But after completing this part of the assembly I found the new linkage still rubbed on the base plate so I took it all apart again and added one of the original M5 washers because I did not have another M4X12 washer available.|left]]
[[Image:Throttlelinkage7c.jpg|thumb|150px|7c: then the top washer went on.|left]]

 
[[Image:Throttlelinkage7d.jpg|thumb|150px|7d: Followed by the nut. Fortunately I have small fingers and this step could be tricky if you've got Arnold Scharzenegger sized hands.|left]]
[[Image:Throttlelinkage7f.jpg|thumb|150px|left]]7e: The nut only needed to be nipped up otherwise I would have snapped the stud or crushed the bearing.

After nipping up the nut I checked to make sure the linkage moved freely. This is when I found that I needed two washers at the bottom, because the linkahe still rubbed on the base plate with only one washer.

I also checked to make sure the nut was tightened up correctly so the lingage moved freely but was not loose at the same time.

 
[[Image:Throttlelinkage8.jpg|thumb|150px|Step8|left]]Step 8 - Then it was time to fit it all back together. Here is the photograph that shows the pliers clamping the ball joint and nipping up the nylock nut. This is what I was referring to back in step 5.

I originally used the middle hole for the standard throttle option as shown in this photograph, but I later changed my mind and moved it to the inner hole for the quick throttle option.

The photograph in step 9f shows the linkage connected in the inner position for the quick throttle option.

 
[[Image:Throttlelinkage9a.jpg|thumb|150px|9a: The throttle cable assembly went back on.|left]]
[[Image:Throttlelinkage9b.jpg|thumb|150px|9b|left|Step9b: Then it was time to start assembling the throttle cable washer stack. This was the most complicated part of the whole procedure and great care had to be taken to assemble the components in the right order.

The washer stack splits into lower, middle and upper sub-assemblies.]]
[[Image:Throttlelinkage9c.jpg|thumb|150px|9c: I assembled the washer stack making sure to grease the two original nylon washers. This photograph shows the middle layer in position.|left]]
[[Image:Throttlelinkage9d.jpg|thumb|150px|9d|left|9d: Then the top layer of the washer stack went on.]]

 
[[Image:Throttlelinkage9e.jpg|thumb|150px|9e: Then I gently nipped the nylock nut up. I had to use an adjustable spanner because I do not possess a 7mm open ended spanner.|left]]
[[Image:Throttlelinkage9f.jpg|thumb|150px|left|9f]]9f: All ready for the base plate to be bolted back on.

This photograph has been updated since I originally fitted the linkage.

I have now connected the throttle linkage to the inner hole and it is set up to give the quick throttle option.

For the standard setting (middle hole) I did not have to make any changes to either the throttle stop or at the throttle body end. See the photograph in step 8.

For quick throttle setting (inner hole) I had to adjust the throttle stop by approximately 10mm, but I found that I did not need to make any adjustments at the throttle body end.

 
[[Image:Throttlelinkage10a.jpg|thumb|150px|Step10a: Yvo supplied two bolts for the base plate and they are a much better idea than the screws.|left]]
[[Image:Throttlelinkage10b.jpg|thumb|150px|10b: I just nipped up the bolts and job done. Notice in this photograph the linkage was set to the normal middle position.|left]]
[[Image:Throttlelinkage11.jpg|thumb|150px|Step11: Reconnect the throttle return spring and we are done.|left]]

 
[[Image:Throttlelinkage12.jpg|thumb|150px|Here are the tools I used plus my trusty AEG. The sockets are 7mm & 8mm.|left]]
[[Image:Throttlelinkage13.jpg|thumb|150px|And here are the parts left over. I fitted one of the original steel washers in step 7 to get extra clearance between the base plate and the throttle linkage.|left]]
I checked to make sure that everything moved freely and started the car up. I noticed an instant improvement in the smoothness of the throttle. It's one of the best and cheapest modifications that I have done to my car.

 
==Correct nut:washers:bolt assembly==
[[Image:ThrottlelinkageLatestStack.jpg|left]]
Now.. as you might notice, I've added a small M4 washer in the stack (standard M4 washer). I've done this to prevent any locking action between the thick nylon ring and the throttle linkage.
It's not absolutely necessary (if it's moving, it's moving) but it gives just a little more freedom to move, so precautionary action..)

File:Throttlelinkage9a.jpg

2006-02-12T00:07:13Z

Webmaster:

Chassis development

2006-02-11T14:28:29Z

Webmaster:

====Chassis development…or why is everybody telling me to get my car ‘Geo’d’?====
So you bought yourself a nice, shiny Elise or Exige,
and have driven the first couple of thousand miles?
That’s the point where lots of owners are hit by the
‘go faster blues’ and either start investing in go
faster parts, or walk away not knowing where to
start.

In this article, I’d like to give some insights to the
updates you can do to get more fun out of your car
without the need to install a 200+bhp engine for
starters.

One of the regular remarks on the forum is ‘get
yourself upgraded’. Of course, driving and racing
courses will make you go faster! Everyone who’s
even a little active within the Seloc community
knows the name Andrew Walsh (aka Walshy). He
can sure help you to understand your car and make
you go faster. Besides - it’s great fun to do!

Time to go for the first engine mod? Run out of
possibilities to go any faster? Not quite! There are
more possibilities to make you go faster without
the need to improve the power output of your car’s
engine. The trickery which makes this possible is
Geometry. I can hear people say ‘Lotus is the best
chassis developer in the world, so why would I fiddle
around with their settings?’ The answer is as
easy as it is logical - Lotus has created a car which
needs to be everyone’s friend. It needs to be entertaining
for the beginner but at the same time Lotus
wouldn’t want to make its handling tricky. If you’re
a bit further down the line, have built up track
experience and have some training courses under
your belt, you might opt for a bit more entertainment,
so you could start playing with the geometry
of your car. Before doing that, I’d advise you to buy
your first upgrade: a stiffer and adjustable front
anti-roll bar. This simple and relatively cheap
upgrade will enable you to play around with the
balance between under- and over-steer. (understeer,
in which the car starts sliding over its front
wheels while entering a corner; over-steer, in
which the rear of the car attempts to overtake the
front, ultimately resulting in a spin).

Mind you, the balancing act of the anti roll bar
(ARB) will not improve grip. A lot of people hate
under-steer and prefer over-steer as long as it’s
controllable. Control is exactly what you can get by
setting up the ARB. Another effect of this device is
the reduction of body roll - that does improve grip!
How does grip work? When you think of the four
patches of rubber which are the contact of the car
with the road surface, you can appreciate the basic
grip of the tyre. The more sticky the tyre, the more
grip you will have. Well not exactly - another thing
you wouldn’t want is to lose the weight on one of
these patches. If you do, that specific tyre will not
be able to provide you with the grip you’re used to.
Getting back to the ARB, body roll actually is moving
the weight on to the tyres. If you steer into a
corner, the mass of your car will want to move on
in a straight line. This will cause the body to roll
over the car’s roll centre. The less the body is able
to roll, the more weight you will keep in the same
place, so there you go - it will produce more grip in
a corner and will help you to go faster!
The next step to improve your feeling with the car
could be to start fiddling with the Geometry of the
car. To do so, you’ll have to understand the basics
of Geometry. If you really want to understand what
you’re doing and even want to do it yourself, I
would strongly suggest you pick up the parts manual
first and buy yourself a pile of shims. You will
need them!

First, the basics. There are a couple of things you’ll need to understand first - All settings are measured per axle!

==Toe-in / Toe-out==
[[Image:Chassis_development_toe.png|frame|right]]
Looking on the axle from above, if the fronts of the
wheels are closer to each other then the rears, this
is called Toe-in. If the opposite is true, e.g. the rear
side of the wheels are closer to each other then the
fronts, this is called Toe-out.

Toe-out will produce high-speed straight line stability
but will make the car a slow turner. You have
to work harder to get into corners.

Toe-in will not help you for straight line stability.
The car will be pretty nervous, but it will want to
attack each and every corner.
There is no such thing as the perfect setting for
Toe-in / Toe-out. The ideal setting for a (semi)-professional
race car driver might be horrible for you.
Keep in mind, the more toe you set, the harder
your tyres will wear!

==Camber==
[[Image:Chassis_development_camber.png|frame|right]]
You will now have to look at the wheel from the
front or the rear. The camber can be called negative
if the top of the wheels are closer to each other
than the bottom.

Positive camber is the setting where the bottom of
the wheels are closer to each other than the top.

Where camber is concerned nearly every possible
setting, the camber will be negative. The only
question is.. how far should you go?
The effect of negative camber might be loss of
straight-line grip. As you’re setting the surface of
the tyre in an angle to the surface of the road, you
are losing grip. But as soon as you enter a corner
(which is the place where you lose most speed
when track- driving), the surface of the tyre will
deform and, when your setup would be 0 Camber,
you’ll lose grip. Having the car set with negative
camber, the road surface contact will actually
increase in the corner, thus improving grip. Exactly
what you want!

==Castor==
[[Image:Chassis_development_castor.png|frame|left]]
This one is a little more difficult
to explain.. You will
have to look at the wheel
from the side. The hub is
behind the wheel and if you
look at it, you will see that
there's an angle between
the top and bottom connection
of the wishbones. This angle is called Castor.
Castor is controlled by shims at the connection
points of the upper front wishbone.

If the castor angle is too small, the car will feel
very unstable at high speeds and will react very
nervously on any steering action. If the castor angle
is too big, the tyres will wear very quickly and you
will lose grip in corners. The reason for this is that
castor (on the front wheels) will produce camber as
soon as you turn the wheels. Finding the right balance
is key again.

I can hear you thinking now: ‘The workshop I’m
visiting has a very expensive test setup to do these
alignments. How could I possibly do that on my
garage floor?’ The good news is - you can! The bad
news is… it’ll take you some time to get there. If
you are serious about this, you could bring your car
to this workshop to try a new setting you’ve figured
out, but in the end, it would cost quite some money.
An optimal setup for a nice, warm, dry track is different
to that for the cold, wet roads at home, so
you might end up queuing at the workshop every
week.

So it’s time to make a decision here. Are you going
to try a handful of general setups during a season?
You might opt for the workshop.
If you would like to end up making your own setup
per different track or according to weather, you
could start investing in your own equipment. You
could look at companies like
www.longacreracing.com who are selling quite
interesting low-budget solutions for Geometry
modifications. If you search on the Internet, you
will also find other companies, and also descriptions
of doing a setup yourself using small ropes.

There’s one thing which is important to understand
before you start. The floor you are doing the
setup on needs to be level and you must put some
weight in the driver’s seat (preferably something
that matches your own).

One more thing: say you’ve added a shim in the
front suspension. You’ve lifted the car, removed the
wheel, done the shimming and built it all together
again. After doing that you should check what
you’ve done, but you shouldn’t just measure again
after lowering the car! Roll it forward and roll it
back again! The suspension needs to settle, and
you do that while rolling the car back and forth.

Your car came out of the factory with what you’d
call a general setup. Depending on what you want
to achieve, there are a couple of different setups
that you can use as a starting point to find your
own. Lotus has released quite a few setups for the
Elise, Exige and 340R. You can choose one of these
as a starting point and start modifying from there.
If you’re doing your own Geo for the first time, I’d
advise you to take it step by step: e.g. first do the
Toe-in / Toe-out until you’re satisfied with the
behaviour. Next step could be the camber, etc.

It’s winter - a good time to start understanding all
of this and preparing yourself for a new season.
Once you’re able to do your own Geo, I’ll start nagging
you about bump steer settings and springs
and dampers.

This artice, written by Yvo Tuk, is taken from issue 2 of the Lotus Enthusiast, the magazine for SELOC Members.

Chassis development

2006-02-10T21:44:52Z

Webmaster:

Chassis development

2006-02-10T21:43:51Z

Webmaster:

====Chassis development…or why is everybody telling me to get my car ‘Geo’d’?====
So you bought yourself a nice, shiny Elise or Exige,
and have driven the first couple of thousand miles?
That’s the point where lots of owners are hit by the
‘go faster blues’ and either start investing in go
faster parts, or walk away not knowing where to
start.

In this article, I’d like to give some insights to the
updates you can do to get more fun out of your car
without the need to install a 200+bhp engine for
starters.

One of the regular remarks on the forum is ‘get
yourself upgraded’. Of course, driving and racing
courses will make you go faster! Everyone who’s
even a little active within the Seloc community
knows the name Andrew Walsh (aka Walshy). He
can sure help you to understand your car and make
you go faster. Besides - it’s great fun to do!

Time to go for the first engine mod? Run out of
possibilities to go any faster? Not quite! There are
more possibilities to make you go faster without
the need to improve the power output of your car’s
engine. The trickery which makes this possible is
Geometry. I can hear people say ‘Lotus is the best
chassis developer in the world, so why would I fiddle
around with their settings?’ The answer is as
easy as it is logical - Lotus has created a car which
needs to be everyone’s friend. It needs to be entertaining
for the beginner but at the same time Lotus
wouldn’t want to make its handling tricky. If you’re
a bit further down the line, have built up track
experience and have some training courses under
your belt, you might opt for a bit more entertainment,
so you could start playing with the geometry
of your car. Before doing that, I’d advise you to buy
your first upgrade: a stiffer and adjustable front
anti-roll bar. This simple and relatively cheap
upgrade will enable you to play around with the
balance between under- and over-steer. (understeer,
in which the car starts sliding over its front
wheels while entering a corner; over-steer, in
which the rear of the car attempts to overtake the
front, ultimately resulting in a spin).

Mind you, the balancing act of the anti roll bar
(ARB) will not improve grip. A lot of people hate
under-steer and prefer over-steer as long as it’s
controllable. Control is exactly what you can get by
setting up the ARB. Another effect of this device is
the reduction of body roll - that does improve grip!
How does grip work? When you think of the four
patches of rubber which are the contact of the car
with the road surface, you can appreciate the basic
grip of the tyre. The more sticky the tyre, the more
grip you will have. Well not exactly - another thing
you wouldn’t want is to lose the weight on one of
these patches. If you do, that specific tyre will not
be able to provide you with the grip you’re used to.
Getting back to the ARB, body roll actually is moving
the weight on to the tyres. If you steer into a
corner, the mass of your car will want to move on
in a straight line. This will cause the body to roll
over the car’s roll centre. The less the body is able
to roll, the more weight you will keep in the same
place, so there you go - it will produce more grip in
a corner and will help you to go faster!
The next step to improve your feeling with the car
could be to start fiddling with the Geometry of the
car. To do so, you’ll have to understand the basics
of Geometry. If you really want to understand what
you’re doing and even want to do it yourself, I
would strongly suggest you pick up the parts manual
first and buy yourself a pile of shims. You will
need them!

First, the basics. There are a couple of things you’ll need to understand first - All settings are measured per axle!

==Toe-in / Toe-out==
[[Image:Chassis_development_toe.png|frame|right]]
Looking on the axle from above, if the fronts of the
wheels are closer to each other then the rears, this
is called Toe-in. If the opposite is true, e.g. the rear
side of the wheels are closer to each other then the
fronts, this is called Toe-out.

Toe-out will produce high-speed straight line stability
but will make the car a slow turner. You have
to work harder to get into corners.

Toe-in will not help you for straight line stability.
The car will be pretty nervous, but it will want to
attack each and every corner.
There is no such thing as the perfect setting for
Toe-in / Toe-out. The ideal setting for a (semi)-professional
race car driver might be horrible for you.
Keep in mind, the more toe you set, the harder
your tyres will wear!

==Camber==
[[Image:Chassis_development_camber.png|frame|right]]
You will now have to look at the wheel from the
front or the rear. The camber can be called negative
if the top of the wheels are closer to each other
than the bottom.

Positive camber is the setting where the bottom of
the wheels are closer to each other than the top.

Where camber is concerned nearly every possible
setting, the camber will be negative. The only
question is.. how far should you go?
The effect of negative camber might be loss of
straight-line grip. As you’re setting the surface of
the tyre in an angle to the surface of the road, you
are losing grip. But as soon as you enter a corner
(which is the place where you lose most speed
when track- driving), the surface of the tyre will
deform and, when your setup would be 0 Camber,
you’ll lose grip. Having the car set with negative
camber, the road surface contact will actually
increase in the corner, thus improving grip. Exactly
what you want!

==castor==
[[Image:Chassis_development_castor.png|frame|right]]
This one is a little more difficult
to explain.. You will
have to look at the wheel
from the side. The hub is
behind the wheel and if you
look at it, you will see that
there's an angle between
the top and bottom connection
of the wishbones. This angle is called Castor.
Castor is controlled by shims at the connection
points of the upper front wishbone.

If the castor angle is too small, the car will feel
very unstable at high speeds and will react very
nervously on any steering action. If the castor angle
is too big, the tyres will wear very quickly and you
will lose grip in corners. The reason for this is that
castor (on the front wheels) will produce camber as
soon as you turn the wheels. Finding the right balance
is key again.

I can hear you thinking now: ‘The workshop I’m
visiting has a very expensive test setup to do these
alignments. How could I possibly do that on my
garage floor?’ The good news is - you can! The bad
news is… it’ll take you some time to get there. If
you are serious about this, you could bring your car
to this workshop to try a new setting you’ve figured
out, but in the end, it would cost quite some money.
An optimal setup for a nice, warm, dry track is different
to that for the cold, wet roads at home, so
you might end up queuing at the workshop every
week.

So it’s time to make a decision here. Are you going
to try a handful of general setups during a season?
You might opt for the workshop.
If you would like to end up making your own setup
per different track or according to weather, you
could start investing in your own equipment. You
could look at companies like
www.longacreracing.com who are selling quite
interesting low-budget solutions for Geometry
modifications. If you search on the Internet, you
will also find other companies, and also descriptions
of doing a setup yourself using small ropes.

There’s one thing which is important to understand
before you start. The floor you are doing the
setup on needs to be level and you must put some
weight in the driver’s seat (preferably something
that matches your own).

One more thing: say you’ve added a shim in the
front suspension. You’ve lifted the car, removed the
wheel, done the shimming and built it all together
again. After doing that you should check what
you’ve done, but you shouldn’t just measure again
after lowering the car! Roll it forward and roll it
back again! The suspension needs to settle, and
you do that while rolling the car back and forth.

Your car came out of the factory with what you’d
call a general setup. Depending on what you want
to achieve, there are a couple of different setups
that you can use as a starting point to find your
own. Lotus has released quite a few setups for the
Elise, Exige and 340R. You can choose one of these
as a starting point and start modifying from there.
If you’re doing your own Geo for the first time, I’d
advise you to take it step by step: e.g. first do the
Toe-in / Toe-out until you’re satisfied with the
behaviour. Next step could be the camber, etc.

It’s winter - a good time to start understanding all
of this and preparing yourself for a new season.
Once you’re able to do your own Geo, I’ll start nagging
you about bump steer settings and springs
and dampers.

File:Chassis development castor.png

2006-02-10T21:39:29Z

Webmaster:

Chassis development

2006-02-10T21:15:49Z

Webmaster:

File:Chassis development camber.png

2006-02-10T21:14:08Z

Webmaster:

File:Chassis development toe.png

2006-02-10T20:54:19Z

Webmaster:

File:ThrottlelinkageLatestStack.jpg

2006-02-09T23:18:26Z

Webmaster:

File:Wiki.png

2006-02-09T21:31:12Z

Webmaster:

Help:Editing

2006-02-09T21:30:57Z

Webmaster:

Help:Editing

2006-02-09T21:30:05Z

Webmaster:

:''See also [[Help:Editing]], [[Help:Starting a new page]], [[m:Help:Editing]]''
{{shortcut|[[WP:HEP]]}}
[[Wikipedia]] is a [[wiki]], which means that anyone can easily edit any [[Wikipedia:Protected page|unprotected page]] and have those changes posted immediately to that page. To request a change to a protected page, you may use the {{tl|Editprotected}} template.
{{Style}}

'''Editing''' a Wikipedia page is very easy. Simply click on the "'''edit this page'''" tab at the top of a wiki page (or on a [[Wikipedia:Section|section-edit]] link). This will bring you to a new page with a text box containing the editable text of the original page. '''If you just want to experiment, please do so in the [[Wikipedia:sandbox|sandbox]]'''; '''not here'''. You should write a short [[Wikipedia:Edit summary|edit summary]] in the small field below the edit-box. You may use shorthand to describe your changes, as described in the [[Wikipedia:Edit summary legend|legend]], and when you have finished, press the [[Wikipedia:Show preview|Show preview]] button to see how your changes will look. You can also see the difference between the page with your edits and the previous version of the page by pressing the [[Wikipedia:Show changes|Show changes]] button. If you're happy with what you see, [[Wikipedia:Be bold in updating pages|be bold]] and press the '''Save page''' button. Your changes will immediately be visible to other Wikipedia users.

You can also click on the "'''Discussion'''" tab to see the corresponding [[Wikipedia:Talk page|talk page]], which contains comments about the page from other Wikipedia users. Click on the "'''+'''" tab to add a new section, or edit the page in the same way as an article page.

You should remember to [[Wikipedia:Sign your posts on talk pages|sign your messages]] on [[Wikipedia:Talk pages|talk pages]] and some special-purpose [[Wikipedia:Project namespace|project pages]], but you should '''not''' sign edits you make to regular articles. In [[Wikipedia:Page history|page histories]], the [[MediaWiki]] software keeps track of which user makes each change.

==Tips on editing Wikipedia articles==
'''Always use a [[Wikipedia:Neutral point of view|neutral point of view]]''', as Wikipedia is [[Wikipedia:What Wikipedia is not|not a soapbox]].

'''Cite your sources''', so others can check and extend your work. Most Wikipedia articles currently lack good references, and this contributes to be Wikipedia's single greatest criticism—that it is not a reliable source. Please help by researching online and print resources to find references for the article you are working on, then [[Wikipedia:Citing sources|cite them]] in proper form, and consider in-text citation for contentious facts. There is no consensus on the best way to do that, but anything is better than nothing.

'''Link to your article''' from other articles. After making a new page, it's a good idea to use the ''[[Wikipedia:What links here|What links here]]'' feature to check the pages that already link to your new page. Make sure that all the links are referring to your page in the right context. For example, a link to the Mercury article in an astronomy-related article should direct readers to [[Mercury (planet)]] rather than [[Mercury (mythology)]]. You should also use the [[Wikipedia:Searching|search feature]] to find occurrences of the title of your new page—and possible variants thereof—so that you can [[Wikipedia:Links|create appropriate links]].

==Minor edits==
''See also [[Wikipedia:Minor edit]]''

When editing a page, a [[Wikipedia:How to log in|logged-in]] user can mark that edit as being "minor". Minor edits generally mean spelling corrections, formatting, and minor rearrangement of text. It is possible to ''hide'' minor edits when viewing the [[Wikipedia:Recent Changes|recent changes]]. Marking a significant change as a minor edit is considered bad behavior, especially when it involves the deletion of some text. If you accidentally mark an edit as minor, you should edit the source once more, mark it major (or, rather, ensure that the check-box for "This is a minor edit" is not checked), and, in the summary, state that the previous change was a major one.

==Wiki markup==
The '''wiki markup''' is the syntax system you can use to format a Wikipedia page.

In the left column of the table below, you can see what effects are possible. In the right column, you can see how those effects were achieved. In other words, to make text look like it looks in the left column, type it in the format you see in the right column.

You may want to keep this page open in a separate browser window for reference. '''If you want to try out things without danger of doing any harm, you can do so in the [[Wikipedia:Sandbox|Sandbox]]'''. Try opening the Sandbox in a separate window or tab and keeping this page open for reference.

===Examples===

{| border="1" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0"
|-
! What it looks like
! What you type
|- valign="top"
|
Start your [[Wikipedia:Manual of Style (headings)|sections]] as follows:




'''New section'''

'''Subsection'''

'''Sub-subsection'''

* Start with a second-level heading (<tt><nowiki>==</nowiki></tt>); don't use first-level headings (=).
* Don't skip levels (for example, second-level followed by fourth-level).
* A [[#Placement_of_the_Table_of_Contents_.28TOC.29|Table of Contents]] will automatically be added to an article that has four or more sections.
*If appropriate, place subsections in an appropriate order. If listing countries, place them in alphabetical order rather than, say, relative to population of [[OECD]] countries, or some random order.
|
<pre><nowiki>
==New section==

===Subsection===

====Sub-subsection====
</nowiki></pre>
|- valign="top"
|
A single [[newline]]
generally has no effect on the layout.
These can be used to separate
sentences within a paragraph.
Some editors find that this aids editing
and improves the function ''diff''
(used internally to compare
different versions of a page).

But an empty line
starts a new paragraph.

* When used in a list, a newline ''does'' affect the layout ([[#lists|see below]]).
|
<pre><nowiki>
A single [[newline]]
generally has no effect on the layout.
These can be used to separate
sentences within a paragraph.
Some editors find that this aids editing
and improves the function ''diff''
(used internally to compare
different versions of a page).

But an empty line
starts a new paragraph.
</nowiki></pre>
|- valign="top"
|
You can break lines 
without starting a new paragraph.

* Please use this sparingly.
* Close markup between lines, do not start a [[link]] or ''italics'' or '''bold''' on one line and close it on the next.
|
<pre><nowiki>
You can break lines 
without starting a new paragraph.
</nowiki></pre>
|- id="lists" valign="top"
|
* It's easy to create a list:
** Start every line with a star ([[asterisk]]).
*** More stars means deeper levels.
**** A newline in a list
marks the end of a list item.

* An empty line starts a new list.
|
<pre><nowiki>
* It's easy to create a list:
** Start every line with a star.
*** More stars means deeper levels.
**** A newline in a list
marks the end of a list item.

* An empty line starts a new list.
</nowiki></pre>
|- valign="top"
|
# Numbered lists are also good
## very organized
## easy to follow
### easier still
|
<pre><nowiki>
# Numbered lists are also good
## very organized
## easy to follow
### easier still
</nowiki></pre>
|- valign="top" id="definition"
|
; Definition list : list of definitions
; item : the item's definition
; another item
: the other item's definition

* Begin with a semicolon. One item per line; a newline can appear before the colon, but using a space before the colon improves parsing.
|
<pre><nowiki>
; Definition list : list of definitions
; item : the item's definition
; another item
: the other item's definition
</nowiki></pre>
|- valign="top"
|
* You can even create mixed lists
*# and nest them
*#* like this
*#*; can I mix definition list as well?
*#*: yes
*#*; how?
*#*: it's easy as
*#*:* a
*#*:* b
*#*:* c
|
<pre><nowiki>
* You can even create mixed lists
*# and nest them
*#* like this
*#*; can I mix definition list as well?
*#*: yes
*#*; how?
*#*: it's easy as
*#*:* a
*#*:* b
*#*:* c
</nowiki></pre>
|- valign="top"
|
: A colon indents a line or paragraph.
A manual newline starts a new paragraph.

* This is primarily for displayed material, but is also used for discussion on [[Wikipedia:Talk page|Talk page]]s.
|
<pre><nowiki>
: A colon indents a line or paragraph.
A manual newline starts a new paragraph.
</nowiki></pre>
|- valign=top
|
When there is a need for separating a block of text
<blockquote>
the '''blockquote''' command will indent both margins when needed instead of the left margin only as the colon does.
</blockquote>
This is useful for (as the name says) inserting blocks of quoted (and cited) text.
|
<pre><nowiki>
<blockquote>
The '''blockquote''' command will indent
both margins when needed instead of the
left margin only as the colon does.
</blockquote>
</nowiki></pre>
|- valign=top
|
(See formula on right):

*This is useful for:
** pasting preformatted text;
** algorithm descriptions;
** program source code;
** [[ASCII art]];
** chemical structures;
* '''WARNING''': If you make it wide, you [[page widening|force the whole page to be wide]] and hence less readable, especially for people who use lower resolutions. Never start ordinary lines with spaces.
|
<pre><nowiki>
IF a line starts with a space THEN
it will be formatted exactly
as typed;
in a fixed-width font;
lines will not wrap;
ENDIF
</nowiki></pre>
|- valign="top"
|
<center>Centered text.</center>

* Please note the American spelling of "center."
|
<pre><nowiki>
<center>Centered text.</center>
</nowiki></pre>
|- valign="top"
|
A [[horizontal dividing line]]:
this is above it
----
and this is below it.

* Mainly useful for
**disambiguation - but to be used sparsely, only when separating completely different, unrelated (groups of) meanings
**separating threads on Talk pages.
|
<pre><nowiki>
A [[horizontal dividing line]]:
this is above it
----
and this is below it.
</nowiki></pre>
|}

===Links and URLs===
{| border="1" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0"
|- style="width=100%"
! What it looks like
! What you type
|- valign="top"
|
London has [[public transport]].

* A link to another Wikipedia article.
* Internally, the first letter of the target page is automatically capitalized and spaces are represented as underscores (typing an underscore in the link has the same effect as typing a space, but is not recommended).
* Thus the link above is to the [[URL]] en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Public_transport, which is the Wikipedia article with the name "Public transport". See also [[Wikipedia:Canonicalization]].
|
<pre><nowiki>
London has [[public transport]].
</nowiki></pre>
|- valign="top"
|
San Francisco also has
[[public transport|
public transportation]].

* Same target, different name.
* This is a [[piped link]].
* The "piped" text must be placed first, the text that will be displayed, second.
|
<pre><nowiki>
San Francisco also has
[[public transport|
public transportation]].
</nowiki></pre>
|- valign="top"
|
San Francisco also has
[[public transport]]ation.

Examples include [[bus]]es, [[taxi]]s,
and [[streetcar]]s.

* Endings are blended into the link.
* Preferred style is to use this instead of a piped link, if possible.
|
<pre><nowiki>
San Francisco also has
[[public transport]]ation.

Examples include [[bus]]es, [[taxi]]s,
and [[streetcar]]s.
</nowiki></pre>
|- valign="top"
|
See the [[Wikipedia:Manual of Style]].

* A link to another [[Wikipedia:namespace|namespace]].
|
<pre><nowiki>
See the [[Wikipedia:Manual of Style]].
</nowiki></pre>
|- id="link-to-section" valign="top"
|
[[Economics#See also]] is a link
to a section within another page.

[[#Links and URLs]] is a link
to a section on the current page.

[[#example]] is a link to an
anchor that was created using
<div id="example">an id attribute</div>

* The part after the number sign (#) must match a section heading on the page. Matches must be exact in terms of spelling, case, and punctuation. Links to non-existent sections are not broken; they are treated as links to the top of the page.
* Identifiers may be created by attaching an <code>id="..."></code> attribute to almost any HTML element.
|
<pre><nowiki>
[[Economics#See also]] is a link
to a section within another page.

[[#Links and URLs]] is a link
to a section on the current page.

[[#example]] is a link to an
anchor that was created using
<div id="example">an id attribute
</div>
</nowiki></pre>
|- valign="top"
|
Automatically hide stuff in parentheses:
[[kingdom (biology)|kingdom]].

Automatically hide namespace:
[[Wikipedia:Village Pump|Village Pump]].

Or both:
[[Wikipedia:Manual of Style (headings)|Manual of Style]]

But not:
[[Wikipedia:Manual of Style#Links|]]

* The server fills in the part after the pipe character (|) when you save the page. The next time you open the edit box you will see the expanded piped link. When [[Wikipedia:Show preview|preview]]ing your edits, you will not see the expanded form until you press '''Save''' and '''Edit''' again. The same applies to links to sections within the same page ([[#link-to-section|see previous entry]]).
|
<pre><nowiki>
Automatically hide stuff
in parentheses:
[[kingdom (biology)|]].

Automatically hide namespace:
[[Wikipedia:Village Pump|]].

Or both:
[[Wikipedia:
Manual of Style (headings)|]]

But not:
[[Wikipedia:
Manual of Style#Links|]]
</nowiki></pre>
|- valign="top"
|
[[Agriculture in London]] is a page
that does not exist yet.

* You can create it by clicking on the link (but please do not do so with this particular link).
* To create a new page:
*# Create a link to it on some other (related) page.
*# Save that page.
*# Click on the link you just made. The new page will open for editing.
* For more information, see [[Wikipedia:How to start a page|How to start a page]] and check out Wikipedia's [[Wikipedia:Naming conventions|naming conventions]].
* Please do not create a new article without linking to it from at least one other article.
|
<pre><nowiki>
[[Agriculture in London]]
is a page
that does not exist yet.
</nowiki></pre>
|- valign="top"
|
[[Wikipedia:How to edit a page]] is this page.

* [[Self link]]s appear as bold text when the article is viewed.
* Do not use this technique to make the article name bold in the first paragraph; see the [[Wikipedia:Manual of Style#Article titles|Manual of Style]].
|
<pre><nowiki>
[[Wikipedia:
How to edit a page]]
is this page.
</nowiki></pre>
|- valign="top"
|
When adding a comment to a Talk page,
you should sign it by adding
three tildes to add your user name:
: [[User:Brockert|Ben Brockert]]
or four to add user name plus date/time:
: [[User:Brockert|Ben Brockert]] 00:18, Nov 19, 2004 (UTC)
Five tildes gives the date/time alone:
: 00:18, Nov 19, 2004 (UTC)

* The first two both provide a link to your [[Wikipedia:user page|user page]].
|
<pre><nowiki>
When adding a comment to a Talk page,
you should sign it by adding
three tildes to add your user name:
: ~~~
or four for user name plus date/time:
: ~~~~
Five tildes gives the date/time alone:
: ~~~~~
</nowiki></pre>
|- valign="top"
|
* [[Wikipedia:Redirect|Redirect]] one article title to another by placing a directive like the one shown to the right on the ''first'' line of the article (such as at a page titled "[[USA]]").
* Note that, while it is possible to link to a section, it is not possible to redirect to a section. For example, "<nowiki>#REDIRECT [[United States#History]]</nowiki>" will redirect to the [[United States]] page, but not to any particular section on it. This feature may be implemented in the future - see [[MediaZilla:1837|feature request 1837]] (it appears as a bug).
|
<pre><nowiki>
#REDIRECT [[United States]]
</nowiki></pre>
|- valign="top"
|
* Link to a page on the same subject in another language by using a link of the form: <nowiki>[[language code:Title]]</nowiki>.
* It does not matter where you put these links while editing as they will always show up in the same place when you save the page, but placement at the end of the edit box is recommended.
* Please see [[Wikipedia:Interlanguage links]] and the [[Wikipedia:Complete list of language wikis available|list of languages and codes]].
|
<pre><nowiki>
[[fr:Wikipédia:Aide]]
</nowiki></pre>
|- valign="top"
|
'''What links here''' and '''Related changes'''
pages can be linked as:
[[Special:Whatlinkshere|
Wikipedia:How to edit a page]]
and
[[Special:Recentchangeslinked|
Wikipedia:How to edit a page]]

|
<pre><nowiki>
'''What links here''' and
'''Related changes'''
pages can be linked as:
[[Special:Whatlinkshere|
Wikipedia:How to edit a page]]
and
[[Special:Recentchangeslinked|
Wikipedia:How to edit a page]]
</nowiki></pre>
|- valign="top"
|
A user's '''Contributions''' page can be linked as:
[[Special:Contributions/UserName]]
or
[[Special:Contributions/192.0.2.0]]
|
<pre><nowiki>
A user's '''Contributions''' page
can be linked as:
[[Special:Contributions/UserName]]
or
[[Special:Contributions/192.0.2.0]]
</nowiki></pre>
|- valign="top"
|
* To put an article in a [[Wikipedia:Category]], place a link like the one to the right anywhere in the article. As with interlanguage links, it does not matter where you put these links while editing as they will always show up in the same place when you save the page, but placement at the end of the edit box is recommended.
|
<pre><nowiki>
[[Category:Character sets]]
</nowiki></pre>
|- valign="top"
|
* To ''link'' to a [[Wikipedia:Category]] page without putting the article into the category, use an initial colon (:) in the link.
|
<pre><nowiki>
[[:Category:Character sets]]
</nowiki></pre>
|- id="link-external" valign="top"
|
Three ways to link to external (non-wiki) sources:
# Bare URL: http://www.nupedia.com/ (bad style)
# Unnamed link: [http://www.nupedia.com/] (only used within article body for footnotes)
# Named link: [http://www.nupedia.com Nupedia]

:See [[MetaWikiPedia:Interwiki_map]] for the list of shortcuts.

* Square brackets indicate an external link. Note the use of a ''space'' (not a pipe) to separate the URL from the link text in the "named" version.
* In the [[URL]], all symbols must be among: '''A-Z a-z 0-9 . _ \ / ~ % - + & # ? ! = ( ) @ \x80-\xFF'''
* If a URL contains a character not in this list, it should be encoded by using a percent sign (%) followed by the [[hexadecimal|hex]] code of the character, which can be found in the table of [[ASCII#ASCII printable characters|ASCII printable characters]]. For example, the caret character (^) would be encoded in a URL as '''%5E'''.
* If the "named" version contains a closing square bracket "]", then you must use the [[HTML]] special character syntax, i.e. '''&#93;''' otherwise the [[MediaWiki]] software will prematurely interpret this as the end of the external link.
* There is a class that can be used to remove the arrow image from the external link. It is used in [[Template:Ref]] to stop the URL from expanding during printing. It should '''never''' be used in the main body of an article. However, there is an exception: wikilinks in Image markup. An example of the markup is as follows:
** Markup: <nowiki>
[http://www.sysinternals.com
/ntw2k/freeware/winobj.shtml
WinObj]</nowiki>
** Display: <nowiki>
[http://www.sysinternals.com/
ntw2k/freeware/winobj.shtml WinObj]
</nowiki>
* See [[Wikipedia:External links]] for style issues.
|
<pre><nowiki>
Three ways to link to
external (non-wiki) sources:
# Bare URL:
http://www.nupedia.com/
(bad style)
# Unnamed link:
[http://www.nupedia.com/]
(only used within article
body for footnotes)
# Named link:
[http://www.nupedia.com Nupedia]
</nowiki></pre>
|- valign="top"
|
Linking to other wikis:
# [[Interwiki]] link:
[[Wiktionary:Hello]]
# Named interwiki link:
[[Wiktionary:Hello|Hello]]
# Interwiki link without prefix:
[[Wiktionary:Hello|Hello]]

* All of these forms lead to the URL http://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/Hello
* Note that interwiki links use the ''internal'' link style.
* See [[MetaWikiPedia:Interwiki_map]]
for the list of shortcuts; if the site you want to link to is not on the list, use an external link ([[#link-external|see above]]).
* See also
[[Wikipedia:How to link
to Wikimedia projects]].

Linking to another language's wiktionary:
# [[Wiktionary:fr:bonjour]]
# [[Wiktionary:fr:bonjour|bonjour]]
# [[Wiktionary:fr:bonjour|fr:bonjour]]

* All of these forms lead to the URL http://fr.wiktionary.org/wiki/bonjour
|
<pre><nowiki>
Linking to other wikis:
# [[Interwiki]] link:
[[Wiktionary:Hello]]
# Named interwiki link:
[[Wiktionary:Hello|Hello]]
# Interwiki link without prefix:
[[Wiktionary:Hello|]]

Linking to another
language's wiktionary:
# [[Wiktionary:fr:bonjour]]
# [[Wiktionary:fr:bonjour|bonjour]]
# [[Wiktionary:fr:bonjour|]]
</nowiki></pre>
|- valign="top"
|
ISBN 012345678X

ISBN 0-12-345678-X

* Link to books using their [[Wikipedia:ISBN|ISBN]]. This is preferred to linking to a specific online bookstore, because it gives the reader a choice of vendors.
* ISBN links do not need any extra markup, provided you use one of the indicated formats.
|
<pre><nowiki>
ISBN 012345678X

ISBN 0-12-345678-X
</nowiki></pre>
|- valign=top
|
Date formats:
# [[July 20]], [[1969]]
# [[20 July]] [[1969]]
# [[1969]]-[[07-20]]
# [[1969-07-20]]

* Link dates in one of the above formats, so that everyone can set their own display order. If [[Special:Userlogin|logged in]], you can use [[Special:Preferences]] to change your own date display setting.
* All of the above dates will appear as "[[20 July|20 July]] [[1969|1969]]" if you set your date display preference to "15 January 2001", but as "[[20 July|July 20]], [[1969|1969]]" if you set it to "January 15, 2001", or as "[[1969|1969]]-[[July 20|07-20]]" if you set it to "2001-01-15".
|
<pre><nowiki>
Date formats:
# [[July 20]], [[1969]]
# [[20 July]] [[1969]]
# [[1969]]-[[07-20]]
# [[1969-07-20]]

</nowiki></pre>
|- valign="top"
|
[[media:Sg_mrob.ogg|Sound]]

*To include links to non-image uploads such as sounds, use a "media" link. For images, [[#Images|see next section]].

Some uploaded sounds are listed at [[Wikipedia:Sound]].
|
<pre><nowiki>
[[media:Sg_mrob.ogg|Sound]]
</nowiki></pre>
|}

===Images===
Only images that have been uploaded to Wikipedia can be used. To upload images, use the [[Special:Upload|upload page]]. You can find the uploaded image on the [[Special:Imagelist|image list]].

{| border="1" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0"
|-
! What it looks like
! What you type
|- valign="top"
|A picture:
[[Image:wiki.png]]
|<pre>A picture:
<nowiki>[[Image:wiki.png]]</nowiki></pre>

|- valign="top"
|With alternative text:
[[Image:wiki.png|jigsaw globe]]
|<pre>With alternative text:
<nowiki>[[Image:wiki.png|jigsaw globe]]</nowiki></pre>
* Alternative text, used when a mouse hovers over the image or when the image is not loaded in a text-only browser, or when spoken aloud, is '''strongly''' encouraged. See [[Wikipedia:Alternate text for images|Alternate text for images]] for help on choosing it.

|- valign="top"
|Floating to the right side of the page and with a caption:
[[Image:wiki.png|frame|Wikipedia Encyclopedia]] 
|<pre>Floating to the right side of the page
and with a caption:
<nowiki>[[Image:wiki.png|frame|Wikipedia Encyclopedia]]</nowiki></pre>
* The frame tag automatically floats the image right.
* The caption is also used as alternate text.

|- valign="top"
|Floating to the right side of the page ''without'' a caption:
[[Image:wiki.png|right|Wikipedia Encyclopedia]]
|<pre>Floating to the right side of the page
''without'' a caption:
<nowiki>[[Image:wiki.png|right|Wikipedia Encyclopedia]]</nowiki></pre>
* The help topic on [[En:Wikipedia:Extended image syntax|Extended image syntax]] explains more options.

|- valign="top"
|Linking directly to the description page of an image:
[[:Image:wiki.png]]
|<pre>Linking directly to the description page
of an image:
<nowiki>[[:Image:wiki.png]]</nowiki></pre>
* Clicking on an image displayed on a page
(such as any of the ones above)
also leads to the description page

|- valign="top"
|Linking directly to an image without displaying it:
[[media:wiki.png|Image of the jigsaw globe logo]]
|<pre>Linking directly to an image
without displaying it:
<nowiki>[[media:wiki.png|Image of the jigsaw globe logo]]</nowiki></pre>
* To include links to images shown as links instead of drawn on the page, use a "media" link.

|- valign="top"
|Using the div tag to separate images from text (note that this may allow images to cover text):
|<pre><nowiki>Example:
<div style="display:inline;
width:220px; float:right;">
Place images here </div></nowiki></pre>

|- valign="top"
|Using wiki markup to make a table in which to place a vertical column of images (this helps edit links match headers, especially in Firefox browsers):
|<pre><nowiki>Example: {| align=right
|-
|
Place images here
|}
</nowiki></pre>

|}

See the Wikipedia's [[Wikipedia:Image use policy|image use policy]] as a guideline used on Wikipedia.

For further help on images, including some more versatile abilities, see the topic on [[En:Wikipedia:Extended image syntax|Extended image syntax]].

===Character formatting===
{| border="1" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0"
|- valign="top"
! What it looks like
! What you type
|- id="emph" valign="top"
|
''Emphasize'', '''strongly''', '''''very strongly'''''.
* These are double, triple, and quintuple apostrophes (single-quote marks), not double-quote marks.
|
<pre><nowiki>
''Emphasize'', '''strongly''', '''''very strongly'''''.
</nowiki></pre>
|- valign="top"
|
<math>\sin x + \ln y</math> 
sin''x'' + ln''y''


<math>\mathbf{x} = 0</math> 
'''x''' = 0

Ordinary text should use [[#emph|wiki markup for emphasis]], and should not use <code></code> or <code></code>. However, mathematical formulas often use italics, and sometimes use bold, for reasons unrelated to emphasis. Complex formulas should use [[Help:Formula|<code><math></code> markup]], and simple formulas may use <code><math></code>; or <code></code> and <code></code>; or <code><nowiki>''</nowiki></code> and <code><nowiki>'''</nowiki></code>. According to [[Wikipedia:WikiProject Mathematics#Italicization and bolding|WikiProject Mathematics]], wiki markup is preferred over HTML markup like <code></code> and <code></code>.
|
<pre><nowiki>
<math>\sin x + \ln y</math>
sin''x'' + ln''y''

<math>\mathbf{x} = 0</math>
'''x''' = 0
</nowiki></pre>
|- valign="top"
|
A typewriter font for <tt>monospace text</tt>
or for computer code: <code>int main()</code>

* For semantic reasons, using <code><code></code> where applicable is preferable to using <code><tt></code>.
|
<pre><nowiki>
A typewriter font for <tt>monospace text</tt>
or for computer code: <code>int main()</code>
</nowiki></pre>
|- valign="top"
|
You can use small text for captions.
|
<pre><nowiki>
You can use small text for captions.
</nowiki></pre>
|- valign="top"
|
You can <s>strike out deleted material</s>
and underline new material.

You can also mark <del>deleted material</del> and
<ins>inserted material</ins> using logical markup
rather than visual markup.

* When editing regular Wikipedia articles, just make your changes and do not mark them up in any special way.
* When editing your own previous remarks in talk pages, it is sometimes appropriate to mark up deleted or inserted material.
|
<pre><nowiki>
You can <s>strike out deleted material</s>
and underline new material.

You can also mark <del>deleted material</del> and
<ins>inserted material</ins> using logical markup
rather than visual markup.
</nowiki></pre>
|- valign="top"
|
'''Diacritical marks:'''
 
À Á Â Ã Ä Å 
Æ Ç È É Ê Ë 
Ì Í
Î Ï Ñ Ò 
Ó Ô Õ
Ö Ø Ù 
Ú Û Ü ß
à á 
â ã ä å æ
ç 
è é ê ë ì í 
î ï ñ ò ó ô 
&oelig; õ
ö ø ù ú 
û ü ÿ

* See [[meta:Help:Special characters|special characters]].
|
 
<pre><nowiki>
&Agrave; &Aacute; &Acirc; &Atilde; &Auml; &Aring;
&AElig; &Ccedil; &Egrave; &Eacute; &Ecirc; &Euml;
&Igrave; &Iacute; &Icirc; &Iuml; &Ntilde; &Ograve;
&Oacute; &Ocirc; &Otilde; &Ouml; &Oslash; &Ugrave;
&Uacute; &Ucirc; &Uuml; &szlig; &agrave; &aacute;
&acirc; &atilde; &auml; &aring; &aelig; &ccedil;
&egrave; &eacute; &ecirc; &euml; &igrave; &iacute;
&icirc; &iuml; &ntilde; &ograve; &oacute; &ocirc;
&oelig; &otilde; &ouml; &oslash; &ugrave; &uacute;
&ucirc; &uuml; &yuml;
</nowiki></pre>
|- valign="top"
|
'''Punctuation:'''
 
¿ ¡ § ¶ 
&dagger; &Dagger; • – — 
&lsaquo; &rsaquo; « » 
‘ ’ “ ”
|
 
<pre><nowiki>
&iquest; &iexcl; &sect; &para;
&dagger; &Dagger; &bull; &ndash; &mdash;
&lsaquo; &rsaquo; &laquo; &raquo;
&lsquo; &rsquo; &ldquo; &rdquo;
</nowiki></pre>
|- valign="top"
|
'''Commercial symbols:'''
 
™ © ® ¢ € ¥ 
£ ¤
|
 
<pre><nowiki>
&trade; &copy; &reg; &cent; &euro; &yen;
&pound; &curren;
</nowiki></pre>
|- valign="top"
|
'''Subscripts:'''
 
x1 x2 x3 or
 
x₀ x₁ x₂ x₃ x₄
 
x₅ x₆ x₇ x₈ x₉

'''Superscripts:'''
 
x1 x2 x3 or
 
x⁰ x¹ x² x³ x⁴
 
x⁵ x⁶ x⁷ x⁸ x⁹

*The latter methods of sub/superscripting cannot be used in the most general context, as they rely on Unicode support which may not be present on all users' machines. For the 1-2-3 superscripts, it is nevertheless preferred when possible (as with units of measurement) because most browsers have an easier time formatting lines with it.

ε0 =
8.85 × 10−12
C² / J m.

1 [[hectare]] = [[1 E4 m²]]
|
 
<pre><nowiki>
x1 x2 x3 or
 
x&#8320; x&#8321; x&#8322; x&#8323; x&#8324;
 
x&#8325; x&#8326; x&#8327; x&#8328; x&#8329;
</nowiki></pre>

<pre><nowiki>
x1 x2 x3 or
 
x&#8304; x&sup1; x&sup2; x&sup3; x&#8308;
 
x&#8309; x&#8310; x&#8311; x&#8312; x&#8313;

&epsilon;0 =
8.85 &times; 10&minus;12
C&sup2; / J m.

1 [[hectare]] = [[1 E4 m&sup2;]]
</nowiki></pre>
|- valign="top"
|
'''Greek characters:'''
 
α β γ δ ε ζ 
η θ ι κ λ μ ν 
ξ ο π ρ σ &sigmaf; 
τ υ φ χ ψ ω 
Γ Δ Θ Λ Ξ Π 
Σ Φ Ψ Ω
|
 
<pre><nowiki>
&alpha; &beta; &gamma; &delta; &epsilon; &zeta;
&eta; &theta; &iota; &kappa; &lambda; &mu; &nu;
&xi; &omicron; &pi; &rho; &sigma; &sigmaf;
&tau; &upsilon; &phi; &chi; &psi; &omega;
&Gamma; &Delta; &Theta; &Lambda; &Xi; &Pi;
&Sigma; &Phi; &Psi; &Omega;
</nowiki></pre>
|- valign="top"
|
'''Mathematical characters:'''
 
∫ ∑ ∏ √ − ± ∞ 
≈ &prop; &equiv; ≠ ≤ ≥ 
× · ÷ ∂ ′ ″ 
∇ &permil; ° &there4; &alefsym; ø 
∈ ∉ ∩ ∪ ⊂ ⊃ &sube; &supe; 
¬ &and; &or; ∃ ∀ ⇒ ⇔ 
→ ↔ 
* See also [[Wikipedia:WikiProject Mathematics|WikiProject Mathematics]].
|
 
<pre><nowiki>
&int; &sum; &prod; &radic; &minus; &plusmn; &infin;
&asymp; &prop; &equiv; &ne; &le; &ge;
&times; &middot; &divide; &part; &prime; &Prime;
&nabla; &permil; &deg; &there4; &alefsym; &oslash;
&isin; &notin; &cap; &cup; &sub; &sup; &sube; &supe;
&not; &and; &or; &exist; &forall; &rArr; &hArr;
&rarr; &harr;
</nowiki></pre>
|- valign="top"
|
'''Spacing in simple math formulas:'''
 
Obviously, ''x''² ≥ 0 is true.
*To space things out without allowing line breaks to interrupt the formula, use non-breaking spaces: <tt>&nbsp;</tt>.
|
 
<pre><nowiki>
Obviously, ''x''&sup2;&nbsp;&ge;&nbsp;0 is true.
</nowiki></pre>
|- valign="top"
|
'''Complicated formulas:'''
 
: <math>\sum_{n=0}^\infty \frac{x^n}{n!}</math>
* See [[Help:Formula]] for how to use <tt><math></tt>.
* A formula displayed on a line by itself should probably be indented by using the colon (:) character.
|
 
<pre><nowiki>
: <math>\sum_{n=0}^\infty \frac{x^n}{n!}</math>
</nowiki></pre>
|- valign="top"
|
'''Suppressing interpretation of markup:'''
 
<nowiki>Link → (''to'') the [[Wikipedia FAQ]]</nowiki>
* Used to show literal data that would otherwise have special meaning.
* Escape all wiki markup, including that which looks like HTML tags.
* Does not escape HTML character references.
* To escape HTML character references such as <tt>&rarr;</tt> use <tt>&amp;rarr;</tt>
|
 
<pre><nowiki>
<nowiki>Link &rarr; (''to'')
the [[Wikipedia FAQ]]</nowiki>
</nowiki></pre>
|- valign="top"
|
'''Commenting page source:'''
 
''not shown when viewing page''
* Used to leave comments in a page for future editors.
* Note that most comments should go on the appropriate [[Wikipedia:Talk page|Talk page]].
|
 
<pre><nowiki>

</nowiki></pre>
|}
''(see also: [[Chess symbols in Unicode]])''

=== Table of Contents ===

At the current status of the wiki markup language, having at least four headers on a page triggers the TOC to appear in front of the first header (or after introductory sections). Putting <nowiki>__TOC__</nowiki> anywhere forces the TOC to appear at that point (instead of just before the first header). Putting <nowiki>__NOTOC__</nowiki> anywhere forces the TOC to disappear. See also [[Wikipedia:Section#Compact_TOC|compact TOC]] for alphabet and year headings.


===Tables===
There are two ways to build tables:
*in special Wiki-markup (see [[Help:Table]])
*with the usual HTML elements: <table>, <tr>, <td> or <th>.

For the latter, and a discussion on when tables are appropriate, see [[Wikipedia:How to use tables]].

===Variables===
''(See also [[Help:Variable]])''
{|
|-
! Code
! Effect
|-
| <nowiki>{{CURRENTWEEK}}</nowiki> || {{CURRENTWEEK}}
|-
| <nowiki>{{CURRENTDOW}}</nowiki> || {{CURRENTDOW}}
|-
| <nowiki>{{CURRENTMONTH}}</nowiki> || {{CURRENTMONTH}}
|-
| <nowiki>{{CURRENTMONTHNAME}}</nowiki>
| {{CURRENTMONTHNAME}}
|-
| <nowiki>{{CURRENTMONTHNAMEGEN}}</nowiki>
| {{CURRENTMONTHNAMEGEN}}
|-
| <nowiki>{{CURRENTDAY}}</nowiki> || {{CURRENTDAY}}
|-
| <nowiki>{{CURRENTDAYNAME}}</nowiki> || {{CURRENTDAYNAME}}
|-
| <nowiki>{{CURRENTYEAR}}</nowiki> || {{CURRENTYEAR}}
|-
| <nowiki>{{CURRENTTIME}}</nowiki> || {{CURRENTTIME}}
|-
| <nowiki>{{NUMBEROFARTICLES}}</nowiki>
| {{NUMBEROFARTICLES}}
|-
| <nowiki>{{PAGENAME}}</nowiki> || {{PAGENAME}}
|-
| <nowiki>{{NAMESPACE}}</nowiki> || {{NAMESPACE}}
|-
| <nowiki>{{REVISIONID}}</nowiki> || {{REVISIONID}}
|-
| <nowiki>{{localurl:pagename}}</nowiki>
| {{localurl:pagename}}
|-
| <nowiki>{{localurl:</nowiki>''Wikipedia:Sandbox''<nowiki>|action=edit}}</nowiki>
| {{localurl:Wikipedia:Sandbox|action=edit}}
|-
| <nowiki>{{fullurl:pagename}}</nowiki>
| {{fullurl:pagename}}
|-
| <nowiki>{{fullurl:pagename|</nowiki>''query_string''<nowiki>}}</nowiki>
| {{fullurl:pagename|query_string}}
|-
| <nowiki>{{SERVER}}</nowiki> || {{SERVER}}
|-
| <nowiki>{{ns:1}}</nowiki> || {{ns:1}}
|-
| <nowiki>{{ns:2}}</nowiki> || {{ns:2}}
|-
| <nowiki>{{ns:3}}</nowiki> || {{ns:3}}
|-
| <nowiki>{{ns:4}}</nowiki> || {{ns:4}}
|-
| <nowiki>{{ns:5}}</nowiki> || {{ns:5}}
|-
| <nowiki>{{ns:6}}</nowiki> || {{ns:6}}
|-
| <nowiki>{{ns:7}}</nowiki> || {{ns:7}}
|-
| <nowiki>{{ns:8}}</nowiki> || {{ns:8}}
|-
| <nowiki>{{ns:9}}</nowiki> || {{ns:9}}
|-
| <nowiki>{{ns:10}}</nowiki> || {{ns:10}}
|-
| <nowiki>{{ns:11}}</nowiki> || {{ns:11}}
|-
| <nowiki>{{ns:12}}</nowiki> || {{ns:12}}
|-
| <nowiki>{{ns:13}}</nowiki> || {{ns:13}}
|-
| <nowiki>{{ns:14}}</nowiki> || {{ns:14}}
|-
| <nowiki>{{ns:15}}</nowiki> || {{ns:15}}
|-
| <nowiki>{{SITENAME}}</nowiki> || {{SITENAME}}
|}

'''NUMBEROFARTICLES''' is the number of pages in the main namespace which contain a link and are not a redirect, in other words number of articles, stubs containing a link, and disambiguation pages.

'''CURRENTMONTHNAMEGEN''' is the genitive (possessive) grammatical form of the month name, as used in some languages; '''CURRENTMONTHNAME''' is the nominative (subject) form, as usually seen in English.

In languages where it makes a difference, you can use constructs like <nowiki>{{grammar:case|word}}</nowiki> to convert a word from the nominative case to some other case. For example, <nowiki>{{grammar:genitive|{{CURRENTMONTHNAME}}}}</nowiki> means the same as <nowiki>{{CURRENTMONTHNAMEGEN}}</nowiki>. 

===Templates===
The [[Wikipedia:MediaWiki|MediaWiki]] software used by Wikipedia has support for templates. This means standardized text chunks (such as [[Wikipedia:Template messages|boilerplate]] text) can be inserted into articles. For example, typing {{tl|stub}} will appear as "''This article is a [[Wikipedia:Stub|stub]]. You can help Wikipedia by [[Wikipedia:Stub|expanding it]].''" when the page is saved. See [[Wikipedia:Template messages]] for the complete list. Other commonly used templates are: {{tl|disambig}} for disambiguation pages, {{tl|spoiler}} for spoiler warnings and {{tl|sectstub}} like an article stub but for a section. There are many subject-specific stubs for example: {{tl|Geo-stub}}, {{tl|Hist-stub}}, and {{tl|Linux-stub}}. For a complete list of stubs see [[WP:WSS/ST]].

===Hiding the edit links===
Insert '''<nowiki>__NOEDITSECTION__</nowiki>''' into the document to suppress the edit links that appear next to every section header.

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Help:Contents

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A good page of instructions on how to use/edit this wiki is here [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wikipedia:How_to_edit_a_page How to Edit a Page]

A similarly excellent how-to for images [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wikipedia:Extended_image_syntax Embedding Images]

SELOC TechWiki

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Wiki software successfully installed.

Please see [http://meta.wikipedia.org/wiki/MediaWiki_i18n documentation on customizing the interface]
and the [http://meta.wikipedia.org/wiki/MediaWiki_User%27s_Guide User's Guide] for usage and configuration help.

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