Editing Cambelt (section)

===Method===

1. Run the rear of the car up on ramps if you have them and remove the rear undertray and diffuser. Loosen the RHS rear wheel nuts while the weight of the car is still on the wheel  

2. Remove the spark plugs (this will allow the engine to be turned over much easier 
using the crank bolt as required below

3. Jack up the RHS of car higher still and place axle stands at the B and C positions in the diagram (if you don't have ramps then jack and support with axle stands in stages, as the tilt on the car can easily cause it to slip off a jack on it own)

[[File:Jacking Positions.JPG|thumb|none]].

Try and get the car high enough that you can kneel with your head inside the rear wheel arch (when the liner is out) as this is a comfortable working position allowing you to reach into the engine bay through the arch

4. Move the ramp out of your way and remove RHS rear wheel

5. Remove RHS rear wheel arch liner

6. You may wish to remove the brake disc on the RHS rear wheel to allow greater access into the wheel arch when working (it is not necessary to do this)

[[File:Cambelt1.jpg|thumb|none|View with Liner Out]]

7. Loosen the pivot bolt and clamp bolt on the alternator

8. Loosen the adjuster bolt to move the alternator towards the engine and provide slack on the the belt. The bolt has a fine pitch so expect to turn it many times before the belt slackens (If you intend to refit the existing alternator belt, before undoing the adjuster bolt, mark the position of the clamp bolt on the slotted bracket, so that you know exactly where to tighten the belt up to on reassembly)

[[File:Alternator Diagram.JPG|thumb|none|Alternator bolts]]

9. Remove the alternator belt

10. Unbolt the upper cam belt cover and manoeuvre it upwards and out via the the engine bay (the cover to clam clearance is tight, but it will come out with minimum force if jiggled about a bit).  It can also help to loosen the two RHS engine mount bolts by about a centimeter to lower the engine.  This gives more access to remove the upper cambelt cover, and it also gives more room to access the crank bolt.

Ensure that you do not lose the rubber seal that press fits onto the bottom edge of the upper cover

[[File:Cambelt3.jpg|thumb|none|Top Cover Removed]]

11. Before loosening the crank bolt place a suitably sized screwdriver or allen key in the visible flywheel ring gear next to the drivers side driveshaft to prevent the engine rotating (I found an allen key much less likely to slip)

[[File:Allen Key Crank Lock.JPG|thumb|none|Crank Locked with Allen Key]]

12. From under the car and using the breaker bar with the cut down socket, loosen the crank bolt (you are likely to have to brace your knees/feet against the underside to gain enough purchase to undo the bolt. Folk on here have snapped breaker bars doing this, so take care)

13. Remove the crank bolt, the large washer (note orientation) and then the crank pulley

[[File:Crank Pulley and Bolt.JPG|thumb|none]]

14(a). Remove the lower cam cover (3 bolts, 8mm socket/spanner)

14(b). Replace the crank bolt (only) and hand tighten.

15(a). Before removing the cambelt the engine requires to be placed in a known positioned with No1 piston (closest to belt end) at 90deg BTDC.  As a visual aid to help find 90 BTDC, place a long screwdriver/large tie wrap/clean garden cane etc etc down through hole where you removed the spark plug on cylinder 1. It will rest on the piston crown and rise and fall with the engine rotation as required in part 16 and indicate piston location and direction. ***Make sure that whatever you use is long enough so that it does not fall into the engine at piston BDC !!! ***

15(b). Its worth highlighting the camshaft sprocket alignment marks, the crankshaft sprocket alignment marks and the engine block alignment mark with some Tippex (or white paint) for ease of viewing

[[File:Cambelt5.jpg|thumb|none|Camshaft Alignment Marks]]

[[File:Cambelt6.jpg|thumb|none|Crankshaft and Block Alignment Marks]] 

16. Remove the screwdriver/allen key from the flywheel teeth, and with the car out of gear. Turn the engine using a rachet/spanner on the crank bolt (only ever turn clockwise), until the camshaft and crank shaft alignment mark line up as above AND the visual aid in cylinder 1 shows the piston is half way up the cylinder on the rise. Camshaft sprocket marks should face each other in a line with the centre bolts of each shaft. The crank dimple marks should straddle the block mark.

[[File:K Alignment Marks.JPG|thumb|none|K Series Camshaft Alignment Marks]]

17. Replace the screwdriver or allen key in the flywheel and place the camshaft locking tool into place

[[File:Cambelt7.jpg|thumb|none|Cam Locking Tool]]

18. Mark the old belt/sprockets at both cams and on the crank. When the old belt is off, transfer these marks to the new belt (carefully count the belt teeth). When fitting the new, the marks will ensure it is not out by a tooth anywhere along its length (the K series will run without damage when the belt is out by a tooth either way but not very well!!).

[[File:Cambelt8.jpg|thumb|none|Belt to Sprocket Double Check]]

19. Unbolt the tensioner centre bolt, remove the tensioner and slide off the cambelt.

20. The engine mount prevents the old belt from being removed completely. There are two ways of getting the old belt out and new one in 

20a (Thanks to Dave Andrews for this tip):
The easiest method is to remove one bolt on the engine mount at a time and weave the belt in between the bolts. Slacken both so that the engine drops by 12-15mm or so. Remove one bolt and push the belt into the gap between. Replace the bolt and tighten to where it was (I.E. 12mm gap), then remove the other bolt and push the belt the rest of the way through the gap. Reverse the process to get the new belt in, then do up both bolts to the correct torque (82NM). 

[[File:Engine Mount.JPG|thumb|none|Engine Mount]]

20b The alternative method, is to place a trolley jack under the engine (use a piece of wood between to spread the contact load), jack the engine up slightly and remove the engine mount bolts completely. Takes a bit longer and if the engine moves ever so slightly back or forward it can be a PITA to get the bolts started in the threads again