Editing Hurricane HID kit FAQ (section)

== Specific Hi/Lo problems ==

The Elise S1 has an H4 lamp which is a bit strange compared to the lamps used in the S2. An H4 lamp is one glass tube with two actual lamps in it. One for dip beam and one for main beam.<br>[[Image:H4LAMP.jpg]]
The dip beam lamp is located behind a small metal screen where the main beam lamp is located a little lower and doesn't have this cover.<br><br>
It has proven to be physically impossible to create an HID lamp with two bulbs in H4 sizes which actually provide a legal beam pattern. All the lamps we've tested so far were nice attempts but were scattering the light in an extreme way. These will not pass an MOT test.<br>
The fillaments we are delivering consist of one single lamp which is physically moving up and down to position itself in the correct location within the reflector to either be a dip or main beam lamp. Within an H4 Hi/Lo solution, it is NOT possible to have the dip and main beam on at the same time as there's only one lamp in the system.<br><br>

The ballast used in a Hi/Lo system is the same ballast as the ones used in a 'normal' H1 or H7 HID lamp. The difference is in the attuator which moves the lamp up and down. <br>
The cable supplied in a Hi/Lo kit has a three spade connector. One is permanently connected to ground (black), the centre spade is permanently connected to + (red). The other spade is the main beam spade. <br> 
To prevent the power from being cut when switched to main beam, there is a diode which runs from the main beam spade to the centre spade (the round black part with two leads). The diode has one side with a printed ring. This should be on the side of the dip beam (the red wire to the ballast).<br>
The attuator is controlled by the little white connector. It has two wires, one black which is connected to the - spade (black wire to the ballast) the other one - the white wire - is connected to the main beam spade. The idea is to apply power to the attuator when main beam comes up, so the lamp will be pulled down when switched to main beam.<br><br>

If you find the unit not to switch to main beam (e.g. the attuator not moving), there can be a power problem to the attuator. Check the white connector and see if it is connected properly. If so, carefully remove the complete lamp from the reflector (it makes sense to remove the wheelarch liner and front wheel as this will give you an area to work in.)<br>
Unplug the power connector on the ballast by pulling the lip and pulling it off the little aluminium box.<br><br>

As the 12V is removed from the ballast, the attuator can now be tested without powering the actual lamp.<br><br>

Have someone operate the light switches while you hold the lamp. When dip beam is switched on, the lamp on the other side of the car should start and the lamp which you're looking at should stay off.<br>
Now toggle main beam. You should see and feel the lamp moving back. If it's not moving, try to carefully look at the lamp and feel the package to find out if it moves at all. If you see it move slightly or feel it move but don't see it move, the attuator has probably been jammed.<br><br>

This is the procedure to check the attuator:<br>
Hold the base of the lamp (where the wires come out) with one hand<br>
Hold top part with the notches to fit in the reflector in the other and twist the top part anti-clockwise.<br>
Now pull the top part off the base and put the top part in a safe location<br>
You will now hold the base and the only thing which protrudes from it is the glass tube with the actual lamp inside.<br>
Put one finger on top of the glass tube (on the wire) and gently push the glass tube into the plastic base.<br>
If it moves freely and goes down approx. 1.5cm, the attuator is fine.<br>
If it jams, the lamp is probably twisted inside the base. Grab the round black plastic base of the tube, pull that approx. 5-8mm untill you're able to rotate the lamp inside the base. Rotate right or left untill you find a slot where the lamp easily moves into. Then once again check if it moves up and down.<br><br>

To assemble the lamp, hold the base in one hand, take the top part in the other and slide the top part over the base. Please be aware that there's only one way to push the glass tube through the aluminium base part without damaging it! When you slid it back, turn the top part clockwise untill it clicks.<br><br><br>

If the lamp move up and down but the actuator doesn't engage, there can be something wrong with the wiring or the power to the attuator. Easiest way out is to change the right hand and left hand wiring loom. <br>
If the problem moves from one side to the other, something is wrong in the wiring loom. If the problem says on the original side, something is wrong with the lamp. If so, the lamp needs to be returned to be checked. (probably a snapped wire)


If the problem stays, please contact us to discuss further options.. [mailto:yvo@elise-shop.com yvo@elise-shop.com]

[[Category:DIY]]
[[Category:Electrical]]