Editing Cambelt (section)

===Cambelt Continued===

24. Before fitting the new tensioner, it is advisable to mark the end of the tensioner wire pointer with a drop of Tippex/white paint to alow it to be seen clearer during positioning

[[File:Cambelt10.jpg|thumb|none|New Tensioner on left with Pointer Marked]]

25. Fit the new tensioner into position and secure with the centre bolt but leave it loose enough that the tensioner will wobble quite freely to give some freeplay while fitting the new belt. Ensure that the wire loop on the tensioner is hooked behind the bolt on the block.

The tensioner lever (the part where the allen key fits, should be at the 9 o'clock position)

[[File:Auto Tensioner Wire.JPG|thumb|none|Tensioner Wire Hook Position]]

25a.  Manual Tensioner - Fit the new tensioner into position and secure with the centre bolt but leave it loose enough that the tensioner can pivot.  Fit the smaller retaining bolt loosely in the slot. 

26. Fit the new belt onto the crank pulley first. If you marked the belt as per section 18 above, line up the mark on the belt with the sprocket mark. Fit the belt so that approx half of the width is on the sprocket/half is hanging off the front edge. Again this gives you more leeway/flex with the belt as you feed it on.

27. Keeping the long RHS of the belt taught, feed it over the RHS (exhaust) cam sprocket then over the LHS (inlet) cam sprocket, again lining up the white marks you placed on it earlier and again only pushing the belt on half way

[[File:Cambelt12.jpg|thumb|none|New Belt - Aligning Crank Sprocket Mark]]

[[File:Cambelt11.jpg|thumb|none|New Belt - Aligning Cam Sprocket Marks]]


28. Feed the belt up around the water pump then around tensioner. Once around all the mounting points you can then push the belt fully onto all the sprockets until seated fully

29. Tighten the tensioner centre bolt, not fully, but enough to pull it against the block

30 From the service manual:-

[[File:Auto Tensioner Setup.JPG|thumb|none|Auto Tensioner Adjustment]]

30a. "Tighten the centre bolt until it is just possible to move the tensioner lever"
 
30b. "check the belt is central around gears and pulleys

30c. "Using a 6mm Allen Key, rotate tensioner anti-clockwise and align the centre of the indent on the tensioner pointer to the index wire

ENSURE that the pointer approaches the index wire from above. Should pointer go past index wire, release tension completely and repeat tensioning procedure" 

30d.  "Ensuring that the pointer maintains the correct position, tighten centre bolt to 25Nm"

(It is quite difficult to hold the allen key on the lever and use a torque wrench in this location. If you tighten this bolt up using the "calibrated hand" method, do not overtighten the bolt. 

30e. Manual tensioner - lever the edge of the tensioner bracket upwards with a flathead screwdriver until the belt is held tight enough so that you can twist the right-hand side of the belt (in the middle of the longest run) between 70 and 90 degrees) with your fingers.  Tighten the M6 securing bolt to 10nm to hold the tensioner in place.  Tighten the tensioner centre bolt to 45NM.

31. Remove the cam locking tool and the crank locking allen key/scredriver and using a ratchet on the crank bolt, rotate the engine 2 turns clockwise. Check the tensioner pointer is still in the correct position

32. Remove the crank bolt, refit the cambelt lower cover. 3 bolts, 10nm

33. Ensuring the mating surfaces of the crank pulley, washer, bolt and sprocket are clean, refit the crank pulley, washer and bolt. (Do not use a thread lock compound). Make sure the notch on the pulley is keyed to the crank before tightening the bolt hand tight

34. Replace the crank locking allen key/screwdriver and torque the crank pulley to 205Nm. This is a significant force even with a long torque wrench. Do not be tempted to just beef up the bolt with a big spanner, numerous instances of the the crank nose being worn away, the pulley undoing and the crank sprocket sliding off because of a loose bolt have been documented with the K series

35. Remember to remove the crank locking allen key/screwdriver !!!!

36. Refit the alternator belt

37. Refit the upper cam belt cover (be careful that the rubber sealing gasket on the lower edge is in the correct place. Its easily knocked off)

37a. if you loosened the engine mount bolts, tighten them up and torque to 82NM.

38. If you have changed the water pump, reconnect all coolant hoses and refill the system with new coolant.

39. I always turn the car over on the starter with the spark plugs removed just as a double triple check that all is well. (not advisable on cars with coil packs as they can be damaged. Better to remove the power to the fuel pump) If it doesn't rattle like a bag of nails :-), then refit the spark plugs and leads, start the engine 

40. Lower the car and bleed the cooling system per the service manual or 

http://wiki.seloc.org/a/Bleed_the_cooling_system

CHOPPER.