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===NOTES=== 1. Alternative methods used to lock the crank include having the car in gear and an assistant press on the brakes VERY hard. It has worked for some and it appears OK for loosening the crank bolt but when doing up any slipage will throw out the timing !!! Another method to undo the crank bolt that has been used is jam the socket and breaker bar against the groung/something very rigid, and use the starter motor to turn the engine. The bolt being held will undo as the crank turns. Use this method at your own risk.... and make sure the car is out of gear when you do it Another method to block the crank bolt when you remove/put the pulley : [[File:manual.jpg|thumb|left]][[File:IMG_0065 (Personnalisé).JPG|thumb]] * Make sure the car is out of gear * Unscrew the starter (bolts n°25 & 27) and take off the rear closure plate (n°26). * Then you have accesse to the flywheel... Now you need a strong cornered plate that you'll can wedge between the sump and the flywheel. Put it in the red position when you unscrew the pulley (like in the picture), put it in the blue position when you screw back the pulley... * Just have to put back the starter and the closure plate when you're done. 2. There have been a small number if instances reported where the cambelt centre tensioner bolt has become seized to the block through corrosion/overzealous tightening or the use of thread lock. Before stripping the engine to find this may be the case (and you now have a car that is incapable of being driven to a garage/mechanic), you may wish to check the tensioner bolt will loosen. This is possible by removing the upper cam belt cover before all else and trying to move the bolt a quarter turn. If it moves, tighten it back up and follow the normal procedure above Useful video: http://www.mgf.ultimatemg.com/group2/engines/index.htm Useful link to another guide fitting the manual tensioner http://www.tadts.com/instructions/engine/100016.html Quick Guide Thread here: http://forums.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=314945&page=1#pid5349364
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