Editing Pedal Box Refurbishment (section)

====Putting it all back together again====


*'''Reassembly is the reverse of taking it all apart, as they say :)'''

*Slide the pedal box back into position, using the reverse manoeuvre to removal.  You need to be able to jiggle it around a bit to get the first couple of bolts started – and this has to be done by feel – you can’t see any of the bolthole alignments because of where the pedal box is.

*When bolting up the pedal box, all the upper 4 are relatively simple to get in.  The two bolts at the lower front are total bastards.  The only way I could get them in was to grind a taper into the end of the bolt so that it would help align the scuttle bracket and pedal box holes on its way in, then very gently turn the bolts until the threads took.  I was lucky in that nothing got cross-threaded.  Tread very carefully here and be aware that I found it incredibly difficult to get hands and tools in the right places to do these up.

*Don’t tighten any of the bolts up fully until you have all six started.  This will give you a very small amount of wiggle room to get stuff lined up.  '''When you’ve managed to get all six in and tightened, treat yourself to another chocolate hobnob.  Believe me; you’ll be ready to torch the car at this point.'''

*Fit the clutch and brake pushrods, making sure that the larger pushrod is fitted to the brake pedal. Ensure that both pushrods poke out of the holes where the master cylinders will sit.

*Bolt both the clutch and brake master cylinders back into place, taking care to ease the brake cylinder back into position to avoid fracturing or stressing any solid brake pipe work.  In particular, ensure that pipe work is put back into any clips that it may have sprung from.

*Adjust the brake and clutch pushrods as per the manual – I.E. Turn the pushrods in the trunnions until the pedals just touch the forward stops and then apply ½ turn preload to both pushrods.  When adjusted, tighten up the grub screws in the side of both brake and clutch pedal trunnions.

*Reattach the throttle pedal return spring and loosely refit the throttle pedal stop screw. 

*Refit the steering column, taking care to align the mark on the steering wheel at top dead centre when offering up the universal joint spline joint to the steering rack pinion.  Tap the UJ onto the rack pinion using a suitable drift and hammer.  Refit the pinch bolt and tighten to torque setting #2 (effing tight)

*Ensure that the wiring tails for the wiper stalk, indicator stalk and ignition switch are run below the steering column mounting lugs in the gap between the column and the dash panel

*Refit and tighten the third column mount bolt in the depths of the dashboard

*Refit the Lucas 5AS unit to the bracket and then fit the bracket to the steering column and tighten the two main column mount bolts.  Refit the electrical connections to the 5AS unit

*Refit switches and electrical connections

*Refit the Stack unit

*Refit the column shroud, after refitting the trip reset/dash light dimming button to the lower shroud

*Refit the throttle linkage panel to the lower edge of the dashboard and reconnect the pushrod to the pedal

*Adjust the throttle pedal stop bolt so that the pedal hits the stop when full throttle is reached at the throttle body.  '''This is important''' – if the pedal is free to move past the point of full throttle at the body, you will likely snap the throttle cable.

*In the front services compartment, repair any damage to the diverter flap housing using duct tape

*Refit and tighten the diverter flap housing fixing screw

*Refit the ventilation duct to both the blower unit and the diverter flap housing.

*Refit and adjust the brake light switch so that the brake lights come on after ¼” brake pedal travel.  The switch is just pushed into the aperture to the appropriate depth and then rotated ¼ turn counter clockwise to lock it in position

*Refit the driver’s seat

*Reconnect your battery, and you’re done!

*Go for a test drive – carefully!