Alternator - Revision history

Clem2k3: /* Removal */

2023-07-03T10:05:23Z

Removal

← Older revision		Revision as of 10:05, 3 July 2023
Line 70:		Line 70:
	#The alternator did fit through the wheelarch hole so I didn't have to remove the cam cover.		#The alternator did fit through the wheelarch hole so I didn't have to remove the cam cover.
	#The biggest one: I needed quite a lot of leverage to get the bolts undone (I used cracking off bar on the top one) so I think it would have been improved by removing the middle undertray to get some space to swing a longer ratchet/bar. As it stands I did remove the rear undertray/diffuser and used this extra access to push on the alternator to tension it while an assistant did up the bolts. I think it would have been overall quicker to remove the undertrays despite the fact it seems to be 1000 bolts to do this.		#The biggest one: I needed quite a lot of leverage to get the bolts undone (I used cracking off bar on the top one) so I think it would have been improved by removing the middle undertray to get some space to swing a longer ratchet/bar. As it stands I did remove the rear undertray/diffuser and used this extra access to push on the alternator to tension it while an assistant did up the bolts. I think it would have been overall quicker to remove the undertrays despite the fact it seems to be 1000 bolts to do this.


	Hi Guys,		Hi Guys,

Clem2k3: /* Removal */

2023-07-03T10:05:11Z

Removal

← Older revision		Revision as of 10:05, 3 July 2023
Line 67:		Line 67:

	#I didn't have to remove the heat shield on my car, the 13mm nut and plug were accessible from the wheelarch.		#I didn't have to remove the heat shield on my car, the 13mm nut and plug were accessible from the wheelarch.

	#The alternator had a small tensioning bolt in it (pushing against the tensioning bracket) that was seized and snapped. Replacement alternator (XPart unit from eliseparts 2023) didn't have a thread so I didn't replace it.		#The alternator had a small tensioning bolt in it (pushing against the tensioning bracket) that was seized and snapped. Replacement alternator (XPart unit from eliseparts 2023) didn't have a thread so I didn't replace it.

	#The alternator did fit through the wheelarch hole so I didn't have to remove the cam cover.		#The alternator did fit through the wheelarch hole so I didn't have to remove the cam cover.

	#The biggest one: I needed quite a lot of leverage to get the bolts undone (I used cracking off bar on the top one) so I think it would have been improved by removing the middle undertray to get some space to swing a longer ratchet/bar. As it stands I did remove the rear undertray/diffuser and used this extra access to push on the alternator to tension it while an assistant did up the bolts. I think it would have been overall quicker to remove the undertrays despite the fact it seems to be 1000 bolts to do this.		#The biggest one: I needed quite a lot of leverage to get the bolts undone (I used cracking off bar on the top one) so I think it would have been improved by removing the middle undertray to get some space to swing a longer ratchet/bar. As it stands I did remove the rear undertray/diffuser and used this extra access to push on the alternator to tension it while an assistant did up the bolts. I think it would have been overall quicker to remove the undertrays despite the fact it seems to be 1000 bolts to do this.

Clem2k3: /* == */

2023-07-03T10:05:00Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 10:05, 3 July 2023
Line 73:		Line 73:

	#The biggest one: I needed quite a lot of leverage to get the bolts undone (I used cracking off bar on the top one) so I think it would have been improved by removing the middle undertray to get some space to swing a longer ratchet/bar. As it stands I did remove the rear undertray/diffuser and used this extra access to push on the alternator to tension it while an assistant did up the bolts. I think it would have been overall quicker to remove the undertrays despite the fact it seems to be 1000 bolts to do this.		#The biggest one: I needed quite a lot of leverage to get the bolts undone (I used cracking off bar on the top one) so I think it would have been improved by removing the middle undertray to get some space to swing a longer ratchet/bar. As it stands I did remove the rear undertray/diffuser and used this extra access to push on the alternator to tension it while an assistant did up the bolts. I think it would have been overall quicker to remove the undertrays despite the fact it seems to be 1000 bolts to do this.

	~~========~~

	Hi Guys,		Hi Guys,

Clem2k3: /* = */

2023-07-03T10:04:46Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 10:04, 3 July 2023
Line 63:		Line 63:
	*Removing the undertray offers no advantage although removing the boot lid is helpful.		*Removing the undertray offers no advantage although removing the boot lid is helpful.

	~~=========~~
	A few notes from having done this recently to a 111S - clem2k3		A few notes from having done this recently to a 111S - clem2k3

Line 73:		Line 73:

	#The biggest one: I needed quite a lot of leverage to get the bolts undone (I used cracking off bar on the top one) so I think it would have been improved by removing the middle undertray to get some space to swing a longer ratchet/bar. As it stands I did remove the rear undertray/diffuser and used this extra access to push on the alternator to tension it while an assistant did up the bolts. I think it would have been overall quicker to remove the undertrays despite the fact it seems to be 1000 bolts to do this.		#The biggest one: I needed quite a lot of leverage to get the bolts undone (I used cracking off bar on the top one) so I think it would have been improved by removing the middle undertray to get some space to swing a longer ratchet/bar. As it stands I did remove the rear undertray/diffuser and used this extra access to push on the alternator to tension it while an assistant did up the bolts. I think it would have been overall quicker to remove the undertrays despite the fact it seems to be 1000 bolts to do this.

	========		========

Clem2k3: /* Removal */

2023-07-03T10:04:28Z

Removal

← Older revision		Revision as of 10:04, 3 July 2023
Line 63:		Line 63:
	*Removing the undertray offers no advantage although removing the boot lid is helpful.		*Removing the undertray offers no advantage although removing the boot lid is helpful.

	*A few notes from having done this recently to a 111S - clem2k3		=========
	- I didn't have to remove the heat shield on my car, the 13mm nut and plug were accessible from the wheelarch.		A few notes from having done this recently to a 111S - clem2k3
	- The alternator had a small tensioning bolt in it (pushing against the tensioning bracket) that was seized and snapped. Replacement alternator (XPart unit from eliseparts 2023) didn't have a thread so I didn't replace it.
	- The alternator did fit through the wheelarch hole so I didn't have to remove the cam cover.		#I didn't have to remove the heat shield on my car, the 13mm nut and plug were accessible from the wheelarch.
	- The biggest one: I needed quite a lot of leverage to get the bolts undone (I used cracking off bar on the top one) so I think it would have been improved by removing the middle undertray to get some space to swing a longer ratchet/bar. As it stands I did remove the rear undertray/diffuser and used this extra access to push on the alternator to tension it while an assistant did up the bolts. I think it would have been overall quicker to remove the undertrays despite the fact it seems to be 1000 bolts to do this.
			#The alternator had a small tensioning bolt in it (pushing against the tensioning bracket) that was seized and snapped. Replacement alternator (XPart unit from eliseparts 2023) didn't have a thread so I didn't replace it.

			#The alternator did fit through the wheelarch hole so I didn't have to remove the cam cover.

			#The biggest one: I needed quite a lot of leverage to get the bolts undone (I used cracking off bar on the top one) so I think it would have been improved by removing the middle undertray to get some space to swing a longer ratchet/bar. As it stands I did remove the rear undertray/diffuser and used this extra access to push on the alternator to tension it while an assistant did up the bolts. I think it would have been overall quicker to remove the undertrays despite the fact it seems to be 1000 bolts to do this.
			========

	Hi Guys,		Hi Guys,

Clem2k3: /* Removal */

2023-07-03T10:03:30Z

Removal

← Older revision		Revision as of 10:03, 3 July 2023
Line 63:		Line 63:
	*Removing the undertray offers no advantage although removing the boot lid is helpful.		*Removing the undertray offers no advantage although removing the boot lid is helpful.

	** A few notes from having done this recently to a 111S - clem2k3		*A few notes from having done this recently to a 111S - clem2k3
	- I didn't have to remove the heat shield on my car, the 13mm nut and plug were accessible from the wheelarch.		- I didn't have to remove the heat shield on my car, the 13mm nut and plug were accessible from the wheelarch.
	- The alternator had a small tensioning bolt in it (pushing against the tensioning bracket) that was seized and snapped. Replacement alternator (XPart unit from eliseparts 2023) didn't have a thread so I didn't replace it.		- The alternator had a small tensioning bolt in it (pushing against the tensioning bracket) that was seized and snapped. Replacement alternator (XPart unit from eliseparts 2023) didn't have a thread so I didn't replace it.

Clem2k3: /* Removal */

2023-07-03T10:03:16Z

Removal

← Older revision		Revision as of 10:03, 3 July 2023
Line 63:		Line 63:
	*Removing the undertray offers no advantage although removing the boot lid is helpful.		*Removing the undertray offers no advantage although removing the boot lid is helpful.

			** A few notes from having done this recently to a 111S - clem2k3
			- I didn't have to remove the heat shield on my car, the 13mm nut and plug were accessible from the wheelarch.
			- The alternator had a small tensioning bolt in it (pushing against the tensioning bracket) that was seized and snapped. Replacement alternator (XPart unit from eliseparts 2023) didn't have a thread so I didn't replace it.
			- The alternator did fit through the wheelarch hole so I didn't have to remove the cam cover.
			- The biggest one: I needed quite a lot of leverage to get the bolts undone (I used cracking off bar on the top one) so I think it would have been improved by removing the middle undertray to get some space to swing a longer ratchet/bar. As it stands I did remove the rear undertray/diffuser and used this extra access to push on the alternator to tension it while an assistant did up the bolts. I think it would have been overall quicker to remove the undertrays despite the fact it seems to be 1000 bolts to do this.

	Hi Guys,		Hi Guys,

ASENNA: /* Removal */

2021-07-28T13:45:15Z

Removal

← Older revision		Revision as of 13:45, 28 July 2021
Line 73:		Line 73:
	Lotusboy90		Lotusboy90

	~~Hello,~~		Thanks for the information. Due to a bad connection of the car's lugs on the battery terminals, this fuse link cable burned out.

	~~I have an Elise S1 111S from June 2000~~. ~~Would you have~~ a ~~picture to show me~~ the ~~exact location of~~ this fuse.

	==Removal from Air Con Cars==		==Removal from Air Con Cars==

ASENNA: /* Removal */

2021-07-12T16:56:56Z

Removal

← Older revision		Revision as of 16:56, 12 July 2021
Line 72:		Line 72:

	Lotusboy90		Lotusboy90

			Hello,

			I have an Elise S1 111S from June 2000. Would you have a picture to show me the exact location of this fuse.

	==Removal from Air Con Cars==		==Removal from Air Con Cars==

ASENNA: /* Removal */

2021-07-12T16:01:03Z

Removal

← Older revision		Revision as of 16:01, 12 July 2021
Line 66:		Line 66:
	Hi Guys,		Hi Guys,

	Make sure that if your battery light comes on, before dismantling the alternator from the car etc, check the live wire from the starter motor to the alternator. It sits underneath the inlet manifold and if original contains a fuse & a brown sleeve.		Make sure that if your battery light comes on, before dismantling the alternator from the car etc, check the live wire from the starter motor to the alternator.
			It sits underneath the inlet manifold and if original contains a fuse & a brown sleeve.

	Mine broke through corrosion from water leaks, if it breaks your battery wont charge at all leading to a lot of head scratching.		Mine broke through corrosion from water leaks, if it breaks your battery wont charge at all leading to a lot of head scratching.