Cambelt - Revision history

Dr. Evil: /* Part numbers */

2026-01-04T20:36:28Z

Part numbers

← Older revision		Revision as of 20:36, 4 January 2026
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	===Part numbers===		===Part numbers===

	For auto tensioner:		For auto tensioner: (145 teeth, 1160mm long, 26mm wide)

	Rover pt no, LHN100560		Rover pt no, LHN100560
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	For manual tensioner (143 teeth):		For manual tensioner (143 teeth, 1144mm long, 26 mm wide):

	Rover pt no. LHN100390		Rover pt no. LHN100390

Dr. Evil: /* Part numbers */

2026-01-04T20:35:36Z

Part numbers

← Older revision		Revision as of 20:35, 4 January 2026
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	Piper pt no TBP33		Piper pt no TBP33

			auto tensioner p/n LHP100900P

			Water pump p/n PEB102511


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	Piper pt no. TBP17 wide		Piper pt no. TBP17 wide

			Manual tensioner p/n LHP10015

			Water pump p/n PEB102511

	===Changing the Cambelt (Auto Tensioner inc Water Pump)===		===Changing the Cambelt (Auto Tensioner inc Water Pump)===

Dr. Evil: updated with manual tensioner info

2025-12-21T22:15:27Z

updated with manual tensioner info

Dr. Evil: /* Part numbers */

2025-10-25T15:28:46Z

Part numbers

← Older revision		Revision as of 15:28, 25 October 2025
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	For manual tensioner:		For manual tensioner (143 teeth):

	Rover pt no. LHN100390		Rover pt no. LHN100390

	Gates pt no. 5416XS		Gates pt no. 5416XS

			Continental CT929 (belt only) / CT929K2 (with manual tensioner)

	Piper pt no. TBP17 wide		Piper pt no. TBP17 wide




	===Changing the Cambelt (Auto Tensioner inc Water Pump)===		===Changing the Cambelt (Auto Tensioner inc Water Pump)===

Lithopsian: /* Cambelt Continued */ [retty sure it is the one of the left

2023-08-21T19:36:52Z

Cambelt Continued: [retty sure it is the one of the left

← Older revision		Revision as of 19:36, 21 August 2023
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	24. Before fitting the new tensioner, it is advisable to mark the end of the tensioner wire pointer with a drop of Tippex/white paint to alow it to be seen clearer during positioning		24. Before fitting the new tensioner, it is advisable to mark the end of the tensioner wire pointer with a drop of Tippex/white paint to alow it to be seen clearer during positioning

	[[File:Cambelt10.jpg\|thumb\|none\|New Tensioner on ~~Right~~ with Pointer Marked]]		[[File:Cambelt10.jpg\|thumb\|none\|New Tensioner on left with Pointer Marked]]

	25. Fit the new tensioner into position and secure with the centre bolt but leave it loose enough that the tensioner will wobble quite freely to give some freeplay while fitting the new belt. Ensure that the wire loop on the tensioner is hooked behind the bolt on the block.		25. Fit the new tensioner into position and secure with the centre bolt but leave it loose enough that the tensioner will wobble quite freely to give some freeplay while fitting the new belt. Ensure that the wire loop on the tensioner is hooked behind the bolt on the block.

Lithopsian: /* Waterpump Change */ your -> you're

2023-03-14T17:49:32Z

Waterpump Change: your -> you're

← Older revision		Revision as of 17:49, 14 March 2023
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	===Waterpump Change===		===Waterpump Change===

	21 If you intend to change the waterpump as well (and if ~~your~~ in here already its probably worth it !!), now is the time to do it. Drain the coolant by undoing and hoses that enter both side rails at the rear of the car		21 If you intend to change the waterpump as well (and if you're in here already its probably worth it !!), now is the time to do it. Drain the coolant by undoing and hoses that enter both side rails at the rear of the car


	22. Unbolt the old pump and remove it. (Expect more coolant to flow from the engine block). There are 6 bolts circled in the photo. The top left is bolted from the rear side, the bottom right is a pillar bolt (used for the front cover as well) and there are two dowels, squared in the photo. Check that the old rubber sealant ring was removed with the old pump and if there is any corrosion around the face/dowels remove with wet an dry paper. The block surface should be clean to allow the new pump to fit well		22. Unbolt the old pump and remove it. (Expect more coolant to flow from the engine block). There are 6 bolts circled in the photo. The top left is bolted from the rear side, the bottom right is a pillar bolt (used for the front cover as well) and there are two dowels, squared in the photo. Check that the old rubber sealant ring was removed with the old pump and if there is any corrosion around the face/dowels remove with wet an dry paper. The block surface should be clean to allow the new pump to fit well

Kcb: /* Tensioner */

2022-03-19T19:47:37Z

Tensioner

← Older revision		Revision as of 19:47, 19 March 2022
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	Auto or Manual		Auto or Manual

	I looked at the information on Eliseparts to ascertain if our engine was fitted with a manual or auto.		I looked at the information on Eliseparts to ascertain if our engine was fitted with a manual or auto tensioner.
	It sugested auto, i purchased an auto one but it turnd out to be a manual.		It sugested auto, i purchased an auto one but it turnd out to be a manual.
	be warned, eliseparts will not allow you to return the miss purchased item and they stipulate this on line.		be warned, eliseparts will not allow you to return the miss purchased item and they stipulate this on line.

Kcb: /* Tensioner */

2022-03-19T19:46:39Z

Tensioner

← Older revision		Revision as of 19:46, 19 March 2022
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	Auto or Manual		Auto or Manual

			I looked at the information on Eliseparts to ascertain if our engine was fitted with a manual or auto.
			It sugested auto, i purchased an auto one but it turnd out to be a manual.
			be warned, eliseparts will not allow you to return the miss purchased item and they stipulate this on line.

	===See Also===		===See Also===

Lithopsian: /* Method */ sp

2020-09-21T19:55:50Z

Method: sp

Lithopsian: sp

2020-09-21T19:54:28Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 19:54, 21 September 2020
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	10. Unbolt the upper cam belt cover and maneuver it upwards and out via the the engine bay (the cover to clam clearance is tight, but it will come out with minimum force if jiggled about a bit)		10. Unbolt the upper cam belt cover and maneuver it upwards and out via the the engine bay (the cover to clam clearance is tight, but it will come out with minimum force if jiggled about a bit)

	Ensure that you do not ~~loose~~ the rubber seal that press fits onto the bottom edge of the upper cover		Ensure that you do not lose the rubber seal that press fits onto the bottom edge of the upper cover

	[[File:Cambelt3.jpg\|thumb\|none\|Top Cover Removed]]		[[File:Cambelt3.jpg\|thumb\|none\|Top Cover Removed]]

← Older revision		Revision as of 22:15, 21 December 2025
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	9. Remove the alternator belt		9. Remove the alternator belt

	10. Unbolt the upper cam belt cover and manoeuvre it upwards and out via the the engine bay (the cover to clam clearance is tight, but it will come out with minimum force if jiggled about a bit)		10. Unbolt the upper cam belt cover and manoeuvre it upwards and out via the the engine bay (the cover to clam clearance is tight, but it will come out with minimum force if jiggled about a bit). It can also help to loosen the two RHS engine mount bolts by about a centimeter to lower the engine. This gives more access to remove the upper cambelt cover, and it also gives more room to access the crank bolt.

	Ensure that you do not lose the rubber seal that press fits onto the bottom edge of the upper cover		Ensure that you do not lose the rubber seal that press fits onto the bottom edge of the upper cover
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	[[File:Crank Pulley and Bolt.JPG\|thumb\|none]]		[[File:Crank Pulley and Bolt.JPG\|thumb\|none]]

	14(a). Remove the lower cam cover		14(a). Remove the lower cam cover (3 bolts, 8mm socket/spanner)

	14(b). Replace the crank bolt (only) and hand tighten.		14(b). Replace the crank bolt (only) and hand tighten.
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	20a (Thanks to Dave Andrews for this tip):		20a (Thanks to Dave Andrews for this tip):
	The easiest method is to remove one bolt on the engine mount at a time and weave the belt in between the bolts. Slacken both so that the engine drops by 12-15mm or so. Remove one bolt and push the belt into the gap between. Replace the bolt and tighten to where it was (I.E. 12mm gap), then remove the other bolt and push the belt the rest of the way through the gap. Reverse the process to get the new belt in, then do up both bolts to the correct torque.		The easiest method is to remove one bolt on the engine mount at a time and weave the belt in between the bolts. Slacken both so that the engine drops by 12-15mm or so. Remove one bolt and push the belt into the gap between. Replace the bolt and tighten to where it was (I.E. 12mm gap), then remove the other bolt and push the belt the rest of the way through the gap. Reverse the process to get the new belt in, then do up both bolts to the correct torque (82NM).

	[[File:Engine Mount.JPG\|thumb\|none\|Engine Mount]]		[[File:Engine Mount.JPG\|thumb\|none\|Engine Mount]]
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	[[File:Auto Tensioner Wire.JPG\|thumb\|none\|Tensioner Wire Hook Position]]		[[File:Auto Tensioner Wire.JPG\|thumb\|none\|Tensioner Wire Hook Position]]

			25a. Manual Tensioner - Fit the new tensioner into position and secure with the centre bolt but leave it loose enough that the tensioner can pivot. Fit the smaller retaining bolt loosely in the slot.

	26. Fit the new belt onto the crank pulley first. If you marked the belt as per section 18 above, line up the mark on the belt with the sprocket mark. Fit the belt so that approx half of the width is on the sprocket/half is hanging off the front edge. Again this gives you more leeway/flex with the belt as you feed it on.		26. Fit the new belt onto the crank pulley first. If you marked the belt as per section 18 above, line up the mark on the belt with the sprocket mark. Fit the belt so that approx half of the width is on the sprocket/half is hanging off the front edge. Again this gives you more leeway/flex with the belt as you feed it on.
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	[[File:Auto Tensioner Setup.JPG\|thumb\|none\|Auto Tensioner Adjustment]]		[[File:Auto Tensioner Setup.JPG\|thumb\|none\|Auto Tensioner Adjustment]]

	30a. "Tighten the centre bolt until it is just ~~posible~~ to move the tensioner lever"		30a. "Tighten the centre bolt until it is just possible to move the tensioner lever"

	30b. "check the belt is central around gears and pulleys		30b. "check the belt is central around gears and pulleys
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	(It is quite difficult to hold the allen key on the lever and use a torque wrench in this location. If you tighten this bolt up using the "calibrated hand" method, do not overtighten the bolt.		(It is quite difficult to hold the allen key on the lever and use a torque wrench in this location. If you tighten this bolt up using the "calibrated hand" method, do not overtighten the bolt.

			30e. Manual tensioner - lever the edge of the tensioner bracket upwards with a flathead screwdriver until the belt is held tight enough so that you can twist the right-hand side of the belt (in the middle of the longest run) between 70 and 90 degrees) with your fingers. Tighten the M6 securing bolt to 10nm to hold the tensioner in place. Tighten the tensioner centre bolt to 45NM.

	31. Remove the cam locking tool and the crank locking allen key/scredriver and using a ratchet on the crank bolt, rotate the engine 2 turns clockwise. Check the tensioner pointer is still in the correct position		31. Remove the cam locking tool and the crank locking allen key/scredriver and using a ratchet on the crank bolt, rotate the engine 2 turns clockwise. Check the tensioner pointer is still in the correct position

	32. Remove the crank bolt, refit the cambelt lower cover.		32. Remove the crank bolt, refit the cambelt lower cover. 3 bolts, 10nm

	33. Ensuring the mating surfaces of the crank pulley, washer, bolt and sprocket are clean, refit the crank pulley, washer and bolt. (Do not use a thread lock compound). Make sure the notch on the pulley is keyed to the crank before tightening the bolt hand tight		33. Ensuring the mating surfaces of the crank pulley, washer, bolt and sprocket are clean, refit the crank pulley, washer and bolt. (Do not use a thread lock compound). Make sure the notch on the pulley is keyed to the crank before tightening the bolt hand tight

	34. Replace the crank locking allen key/screwdriver and torque the crank pulley to ~~210Nm~~. This is a significant force even with a long torque wrench. Do not be tempted to just beef up the bolt with a big spanner, numerous instances of the the crank nose being worn away, the pulley undoing and the crank sprocket sliding off because of a loose bolt have been documented with the K series		34. Replace the crank locking allen key/screwdriver and torque the crank pulley to 205Nm. This is a significant force even with a long torque wrench. Do not be tempted to just beef up the bolt with a big spanner, numerous instances of the the crank nose being worn away, the pulley undoing and the crank sprocket sliding off because of a loose bolt have been documented with the K series

	35. Remember to remove the crank locking allen key/screwdriver !!!!		35. Remember to remove the crank locking allen key/screwdriver !!!!
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	37. Refit the upper cam belt cover (be careful that the rubber sealing gasket on the lower edge is in the correct place. Its easily knocked off)		37. Refit the upper cam belt cover (be careful that the rubber sealing gasket on the lower edge is in the correct place. Its easily knocked off)

			37a. if you loosened the engine mount bolts, tighten them up and torque to 82NM.

	38. If you have changed the water pump, reconnect all coolant hoses and refill the system with new coolant.		38. If you have changed the water pump, reconnect all coolant hoses and refill the system with new coolant.

← Older revision		Revision as of 19:55, 21 September 2020
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	using the crank bolt as required below		using the crank bolt as required below

	3. Jack up the RHS of car higher still and place axle stands at the B and C positions in the ~~daigram~~ (if you don't have ramps then jack and support with axle stands in stages, as the tilt on the car can easily cause it to slip off a jack on it own)		3. Jack up the RHS of car higher still and place axle stands at the B and C positions in the diagram (if you don't have ramps then jack and support with axle stands in stages, as the tilt on the car can easily cause it to slip off a jack on it own)

	[[File:Jacking Positions.JPG\|thumb\|none]].		[[File:Jacking Positions.JPG\|thumb\|none]].
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	9. Remove the alternator belt		9. Remove the alternator belt

	10. Unbolt the upper cam belt cover and ~~maneuver~~ it upwards and out via the the engine bay (the cover to clam clearance is tight, but it will come out with minimum force if jiggled about a bit)		10. Unbolt the upper cam belt cover and manoeuvre it upwards and out via the the engine bay (the cover to clam clearance is tight, but it will come out with minimum force if jiggled about a bit)

	Ensure that you do not lose the rubber seal that press fits onto the bottom edge of the upper cover		Ensure that you do not lose the rubber seal that press fits onto the bottom edge of the upper cover
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	20a (Thanks to Dave Andrews for this tip):		20a (Thanks to Dave Andrews for this tip):
	The easiest method is to remove one bolt on the engine mount at a time and weave the belt ~~inbetween~~ the bolts. Slacken both so that the engine drops by 12-15mm or so. Remove one bolt and push the belt into the gap between. Replace the bolt and tighten to where it was (I.E. 12mm gap), then remove the other bolt and push the belt the rest of the way through the gap. Reverse the process to get the new belt in, then do up both bolts to the correct torque.		The easiest method is to remove one bolt on the engine mount at a time and weave the belt in between the bolts. Slacken both so that the engine drops by 12-15mm or so. Remove one bolt and push the belt into the gap between. Replace the bolt and tighten to where it was (I.E. 12mm gap), then remove the other bolt and push the belt the rest of the way through the gap. Reverse the process to get the new belt in, then do up both bolts to the correct torque.

	[[File:Engine Mount.JPG\|thumb\|none\|Engine Mount]]		[[File:Engine Mount.JPG\|thumb\|none\|Engine Mount]]

	20b The alternative method, is to place a trolley jack under the engine (use a ~~peice~~ of wood between to spread the contact load), jack the engine up slightly and remove the engine mount bolts completely. Takes a bit longer and if the engine moves ever so ~~slighly~~ back or forward it can be a PITA to get the bolts started in the threads again		20b The alternative method, is to place a trolley jack under the engine (use a piece of wood between to spread the contact load), jack the engine up slightly and remove the engine mount bolts completely. Takes a bit longer and if the engine moves ever so slightly back or forward it can be a PITA to get the bolts started in the threads again

	===Waterpump Change===		===Waterpump Change===