Cambelt - Revision history

Gaston senac: /* NOTES */

2026-04-07T10:03:32Z

NOTES

← Older revision		Revision as of 10:03, 7 April 2026
Line 216:		Line 216:
	CHOPPER.		CHOPPER.

	===~~NOTES~~===		===Notes===

	1. Alternative methods used to lock the crank include having the car in gear and an assistant press on the brakes VERY hard. It has worked for some and it appears OK for loosening the crank bolt but when doing up any slipage will throw out the timing!!!		1. Alternative methods used to lock the crank include having the car in gear and an assistant press on the brakes VERY hard. It has worked for some and it appears OK for loosening the crank bolt but when doing up any slipage will throw out the timing!!!
Line 249:		Line 249:
	It suggested auto, i purchased an auto one but it turned out to be a manual.		It suggested auto, i purchased an auto one but it turned out to be a manual.
	be warned, Elise Parts will not allow you to return the miss purchased item and they stipulate this on line.		be warned, Elise Parts will not allow you to return the miss purchased item and they stipulate this on line.

	~~===See Also '''PLEASE ADD INFORMATION'''===~~
	[[Category:Lotus Elise]]		[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
	[[Category:S1]]		[[Category:S1]]
	[[Category:S2]]		[[Category:S2]]

Gaston senac: /* NOTES */

2026-04-07T09:47:22Z

NOTES

← Older revision		Revision as of 09:47, 7 April 2026
Line 137:		Line 137:
	20b The alternative method, is to place a trolley jack under the engine (use a piece of wood between to spread the contact load), jack the engine up slightly and remove the engine mount bolts completely. Takes a bit longer and if the engine moves ever so slightly back or forward it can be a PITA to get the bolts started in the threads again		20b The alternative method, is to place a trolley jack under the engine (use a piece of wood between to spread the contact load), jack the engine up slightly and remove the engine mount bolts completely. Takes a bit longer and if the engine moves ever so slightly back or forward it can be a PITA to get the bolts started in the threads again

	===~~Waterpump~~ Change===		===Water Pump Change===

	21 If you intend to change the ~~waterpump~~ as well (and if you're in here already its probably worth it !!), now is the time to do it. Drain the coolant by undoing and hoses that enter both side rails at the rear of the car		21 If you intend to change the water pump as well (and if you're in here already its probably worth it!!), now is the time to do it. Drain the coolant by undoing and hoses that enter both side rails at the rear of the car

	22. Unbolt the old pump and remove it. (Expect more coolant to flow from the engine block). There are 6 bolts circled in the photo. The top left is bolted from the rear side, the bottom right is a pillar bolt (used for the front cover as well) and there are two dowels, squared in the photo. Check that the old rubber sealant ring was removed with the old pump and if there is any corrosion around the face/dowels remove with wet an dry paper. The block surface should be clean to allow the new pump to fit well		22. Unbolt the old pump and remove it. (Expect more coolant to flow from the engine block). There are 6 bolts circled in the photo. The top left is bolted from the rear side, the bottom right is a pillar bolt (used for the front cover as well) and there are two dowels, squared in the photo. Check that the old rubber sealant ring was removed with the old pump and if there is any corrosion around the face/dowels remove with wet an dry paper. The block surface should be clean to allow the new pump to fit well
Line 145:		Line 145:
	[[File:Waterpump Bolts.JPG\|thumb\|none\|Waterpump Bolts and Dowels]]		[[File:Waterpump Bolts.JPG\|thumb\|none\|Waterpump Bolts and Dowels]]

	23. Ensuring the new sealant ring is in place in the groove on the new pump and fit the pump (you can use some ~~(proper)~~ automotive RTV silicon to hold the new sealant ring in place if required). Tighten the bolts in stages alternating between diagonally opposite bolts to 10Nm		23. Ensuring the new sealant ring is in place in the groove on the new pump and fit the pump (you can use some automotive RTV silicon or silicon grease to hold the new sealant ring in place if required). Note that sealant is not required around the water pump and the manual advise to use only a tiny amount just to prevent the rubber seal from falling out during the installation. Tighten the bolts in stages alternating between diagonally opposite bolts to 10Nm

	===Cambelt Continued===		===Cambelt Continued===
Line 182:		Line 182:
	30b. "check the belt is central around gears and pulleys		30b. "check the belt is central around gears and pulleys

	30c. "Using a 6mm Allen Key, rotate tensioner anti-clockwise and align the centre of the indent on the tensioner pointer to the index wire		30c. "Using a 6mm Allen Key, rotate tensioner anti-clockwise and align the centre of the indent on the tensioner pointer to the index wire and ensure that the pointer approaches the index wire from '''above'''. Should pointer go past index wire, release tension completely and repeat tensioning procedure"

	~~ENSURE~~ that the pointer approaches the index wire from above. Should pointer go past index wire, release tension completely and repeat tensioning procedure"

	30d. "Ensuring that the pointer maintains the correct position, tighten centre bolt to 25Nm"		30d. "Ensuring that the pointer maintains the correct position, tighten centre bolt to 25Nm"
Line 200:		Line 198:
	34. Replace the crank locking allen key/screwdriver and torque the crank pulley to 205Nm. This is a significant force even with a long torque wrench. Do not be tempted to just beef up the bolt with a big spanner, numerous instances of the the crank nose being worn away, the pulley undoing and the crank sprocket sliding off because of a loose bolt have been documented with the K series		34. Replace the crank locking allen key/screwdriver and torque the crank pulley to 205Nm. This is a significant force even with a long torque wrench. Do not be tempted to just beef up the bolt with a big spanner, numerous instances of the the crank nose being worn away, the pulley undoing and the crank sprocket sliding off because of a loose bolt have been documented with the K series

	35. Remember to remove the crank locking allen key/screwdriver !!!!		35. Remember to remove the crank locking allen key/screwdriver!!!!

	36. Refit the alternator belt		36. Refit the alternator belt
Line 220:		Line 218:
	===NOTES===		===NOTES===

	1. Alternative methods used to lock the crank include having the car in gear and an assistant press on the brakes VERY hard. It has worked for some and it appears OK for loosening the crank bolt but when doing up any slipage will throw out the timing !!!		1. Alternative methods used to lock the crank include having the car in gear and an assistant press on the brakes VERY hard. It has worked for some and it appears OK for loosening the crank bolt but when doing up any slipage will throw out the timing!!!

	Another method to undo the crank bolt that has been used is jam the socket and breaker bar against the groung/something very rigid, and use the starter motor to turn the engine. The bolt being held will undo as the crank turns. Use this method at your own risk.... and make sure the car is out of gear when you do it		Another method to undo the crank bolt that has been used is jam the socket and breaker bar against the groung/something very rigid, and use the starter motor to turn the engine. The bolt being held will undo as the crank turns. Use this method at your own risk.... and make sure the car is out of gear when you do it

	Another method to block the crank bolt when you remove/put the pulley:		Another method to block the crank bolt when you remove/put the pulley:
	~~[[File:manual.jpg\|thumb\|left]]~~

	* Make sure the car is out of gear		* Make sure the car is out of gear

	* Unscrew the starter (bolts n°25 & 27) and take off the rear closure plate (n°26).		* Unscrew the starter (bolts n°25 & 27) and take off the rear closure plate (n°26).

	* Then you have ~~accesse~~ to the flywheel... Now you need a strong cornered plate that you'll can wedge between the sump and the flywheel. Put it in the red position when you unscrew the pulley (like in the picture), put it in the blue position when you screw back the pulley...		* Then you have access to the flywheel... Now you need a strong cornered plate that you'll can wedge between the sump and the flywheel. Put it in the red position when you unscrew the pulley (like in the picture), put it in the blue position when you screw back the pulley...

	* Just have to put back the starter and the closure plate when you're done.




			* Just have to put back the starter and the closure plate when you're done.<br />
			2. There have been a small number if instances reported where the cambelt centre tensioner bolt has become seized to the block through corrosion/overzealous tightening or the use of thread lock. Before stripping the engine to find this may be the case (and you now have a car that is incapable of being driven to a garage/mechanic), you may wish to check the tensioner bolt will loosen. This is possible by removing the upper cam belt cover before all else and trying to move the bolt a quarter turn. If it moves, tighten it back up and follow the normal procedure above

	2. There have been a small number if instances reported where the cambelt centre tensioner bolt has become seized to the block through corrosion/overzealous tightening or the use of thread lock. Before stripping the engine to find this may be the case (and you now have a car that is incapable of being driven to a garage/mechanic), you may wish to check the tensioner bolt will loosen. This is possible by removing the upper cam belt cover before all else and trying to move the bolt a quarter turn. If it moves, tighten it back up and follow the normal procedure above


	Useful video:		Useful video: http://www.mgf.ultimatemg.com/group2/engines/index.htm
	http://www.mgf.ultimatemg.com/group2/engines/index.htm

	Useful link to another guide fitting the manual tensioner		Useful link to another guide fitting the manual tensioner http://www.tadts.com/instructions/engine/100016.html
	http://www.tadts.com/instructions/engine/100016.html

	Quick Guide		Quick Guide
Line 254:		Line 244:

	===Tensioner===		===Tensioner===


	~~'''PLEASE ADD INFORMATION'''~~

	Auto or Manual		Auto or Manual

	I looked at the information on ~~Eliseparts~~ to ascertain if our engine was fitted with a manual or auto tensioner.		I looked at the information on Elise Parts to ascertain if our engine was fitted with a manual or auto tensioner.
	It ~~sugested~~ auto, i purchased an auto one but it ~~turnd~~ out to be a manual.		It suggested auto, i purchased an auto one but it turned out to be a manual.
	be warned, ~~eliseparts~~ will not allow you to return the miss purchased item and they stipulate this on line.		be warned, Elise Parts will not allow you to return the miss purchased item and they stipulate this on line.

	~~===See Also===~~


	~~'''PLEASE ADD INFORMATION'''~~

			===See Also '''PLEASE ADD INFORMATION'''===
	[[Category:Lotus Elise]]		[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
	[[Category:S1]]		[[Category:S1]]
	[[Category:S2]]		[[Category:S2]]

Gaston senac: /* Tools Required */

2026-04-07T09:33:18Z

Tools Required

← Older revision		Revision as of 09:33, 7 April 2026
Line 46:		Line 46:
	===Tools Required===		===Tools Required===

	You will require a cut down 22mm socket to fit in the limited space between the crank pulley and the chassis (a 6 sided socket is stronger than a ~~12sided~~. Silverline do one for a couple of ££'s from Amazon)		You will require a cut down 22mm socket to fit in the limited space between the crank pulley and the chassis (a 6 sided socket is stronger than a 12 sided. Silverline do one for a couple of £'s from Amazon)

	[[File:Cambelt2.jpg\|thumb\|none\|Gap]]		[[File:Cambelt2.jpg\|thumb\|none\|Gap]]
Line 224:		Line 224:
	Another method to undo the crank bolt that has been used is jam the socket and breaker bar against the groung/something very rigid, and use the starter motor to turn the engine. The bolt being held will undo as the crank turns. Use this method at your own risk.... and make sure the car is out of gear when you do it		Another method to undo the crank bolt that has been used is jam the socket and breaker bar against the groung/something very rigid, and use the starter motor to turn the engine. The bolt being held will undo as the crank turns. Use this method at your own risk.... and make sure the car is out of gear when you do it

	Another method to block the crank bolt when you remove/put the pulley :		Another method to block the crank bolt when you remove/put the pulley:
	[[File:manual.jpg\|thumb\|left]]~~[[File:IMG_0065 (Personnalisé).JPG\|thumb]]~~		[[File:manual.jpg\|thumb\|left]]


	* Make sure the car is out of gear		* Make sure the car is out of gear
Line 252:		Line 251:

	Thread here: http://forums.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=314945&page=1#pid5349364		Thread here: http://forums.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=314945&page=1#pid5349364

Gaston senac: /* Changing the Cambelt (Auto Tensioner inc Water Pump) */ link to youtube video

2026-04-07T09:30:07Z

Changing the Cambelt (Auto Tensioner inc Water Pump): link to youtube video

← Older revision		Revision as of 09:30, 7 April 2026
Line 15:		Line 15:

	Water pump p/n PEB102511		Water pump p/n PEB102511



Line 39:		Line 40:
	The rear of the car needs to be a high as possible to allow access to loosen and torque up the crank bolt (210Nm is tight)		The rear of the car needs to be a high as possible to allow access to loosen and torque up the crank bolt (210Nm is tight)

	(~~(CLICK ON IMAGES TO ENLARGE )~~)		Here is a [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1Qn8ljQKZxA video] that gives you a quick overview on how to align everything and how to adjust the cam tensioner.

			(Click on images to enlarge)

	===Tools Required===		===Tools Required===
Line 61:		Line 64:
	1. Run the rear of the car up on ramps if you have them and remove the rear undertray and diffuser. Loosen the RHS rear wheel nuts while the weight of the car is still on the wheel		1. Run the rear of the car up on ramps if you have them and remove the rear undertray and diffuser. Loosen the RHS rear wheel nuts while the weight of the car is still on the wheel

	2. Remove the spark plugs (this will allow the engine to be turned over much easier		2. Remove the spark plugs (this will allow the engine to be turned over much easier using the crank bolt as required below
	using the crank bolt as required below

	3. Jack up the RHS of car higher still and place axle stands at the B and C positions in the diagram (if you don't have ramps then jack and support with axle stands in stages, as the tilt on the car can easily cause it to slip off a jack on it own)		3. Jack up the RHS of car higher still and place axle stands at the B and C positions in the diagram (if you don't have ramps then jack and support with axle stands in stages, as the tilt on the car can easily cause it to slip off a jack on it own)

	[[File:Jacking Positions.JPG\|thumb\|none]].		[[File:Jacking Positions.JPG\|thumb\|none]]Try and get the car high enough that you can kneel with your head inside the rear wheel arch (when the liner is out) as this is a comfortable working position allowing you to reach into the engine bay through the arch

	Try and get the car high enough that you can kneel with your head inside the rear wheel arch (when the liner is out) as this is a comfortable working position allowing you to reach into the engine bay through the arch

	4. Move the ramp out of your way and remove RHS rear wheel		4. Move the ramp out of your way and remove RHS rear wheel
Line 106:		Line 106:
	14(b). Replace the crank bolt (only) and hand tighten.		14(b). Replace the crank bolt (only) and hand tighten.

	15(a). Before removing the cambelt the engine requires to be placed in a known positioned with No1 piston (closest to belt end) at 90deg BTDC. As a visual aid to help find 90 BTDC, place a long screwdriver/large tie wrap/clean garden cane etc etc down through hole where you removed the spark plug on cylinder 1. It will rest on the piston crown and rise and fall with the engine rotation as required in part 16 and indicate piston location and direction. *Make sure that whatever you use is long enough so that it does not fall into the engine at piston BDC !!! *		15(a). Before removing the cambelt the engine requires to be placed in a known positioned with No1 piston (closest to belt end) at 90deg BTDC. As a visual aid to help find 90 BTDC, place a long screwdriver/large tie wrap/clean garden cane etc etc down through hole where you removed the spark plug on cylinder 1. It will rest on the piston crown and rise and fall with the engine rotation as required in part 16 and indicate piston location and direction. *Make sure that whatever you use is long enough so that it does not fall into the engine at piston BDC!!! *

	15(b). Its worth highlighting the camshaft sprocket alignment marks, the crankshaft sprocket alignment marks and the engine block alignment mark with some Tippex (or white paint) for ease of viewing		15(b). Its worth highlighting the camshaft sprocket alignment marks, the crankshaft sprocket alignment marks and the engine block alignment mark with some Tippex (or white paint) for ease of viewing

Dr. Evil: /* Part numbers */

2026-01-04T20:36:28Z

Part numbers

← Older revision		Revision as of 20:36, 4 January 2026
Line 4:		Line 4:
	===Part numbers===		===Part numbers===

	For auto tensioner:		For auto tensioner: (145 teeth, 1160mm long, 26mm wide)

	Rover pt no, LHN100560		Rover pt no, LHN100560
Line 17:		Line 17:


	For manual tensioner (143 teeth):		For manual tensioner (143 teeth, 1144mm long, 26 mm wide):

	Rover pt no. LHN100390		Rover pt no. LHN100390

Dr. Evil: /* Part numbers */

2026-01-04T20:35:36Z

Part numbers

← Older revision		Revision as of 20:35, 4 January 2026
Line 11:		Line 11:

	Piper pt no TBP33		Piper pt no TBP33

			auto tensioner p/n LHP100900P

			Water pump p/n PEB102511


Line 22:		Line 26:

	Piper pt no. TBP17 wide		Piper pt no. TBP17 wide

			Manual tensioner p/n LHP10015

			Water pump p/n PEB102511

	===Changing the Cambelt (Auto Tensioner inc Water Pump)===		===Changing the Cambelt (Auto Tensioner inc Water Pump)===

Dr. Evil: updated with manual tensioner info

2025-12-21T22:15:27Z

updated with manual tensioner info

Dr. Evil: /* Part numbers */

2025-10-25T15:28:46Z

Part numbers

← Older revision		Revision as of 15:28, 25 October 2025
Line 13:		Line 13:


	For manual tensioner:		For manual tensioner (143 teeth):

	Rover pt no. LHN100390		Rover pt no. LHN100390

	Gates pt no. 5416XS		Gates pt no. 5416XS

			Continental CT929 (belt only) / CT929K2 (with manual tensioner)

	Piper pt no. TBP17 wide		Piper pt no. TBP17 wide




	===Changing the Cambelt (Auto Tensioner inc Water Pump)===		===Changing the Cambelt (Auto Tensioner inc Water Pump)===

Lithopsian: /* Cambelt Continued */ [retty sure it is the one of the left

2023-08-21T19:36:52Z

Cambelt Continued: [retty sure it is the one of the left

← Older revision		Revision as of 19:36, 21 August 2023
Line 144:		Line 144:
	24. Before fitting the new tensioner, it is advisable to mark the end of the tensioner wire pointer with a drop of Tippex/white paint to alow it to be seen clearer during positioning		24. Before fitting the new tensioner, it is advisable to mark the end of the tensioner wire pointer with a drop of Tippex/white paint to alow it to be seen clearer during positioning

	[[File:Cambelt10.jpg\|thumb\|none\|New Tensioner on ~~Right~~ with Pointer Marked]]		[[File:Cambelt10.jpg\|thumb\|none\|New Tensioner on left with Pointer Marked]]

	25. Fit the new tensioner into position and secure with the centre bolt but leave it loose enough that the tensioner will wobble quite freely to give some freeplay while fitting the new belt. Ensure that the wire loop on the tensioner is hooked behind the bolt on the block.		25. Fit the new tensioner into position and secure with the centre bolt but leave it loose enough that the tensioner will wobble quite freely to give some freeplay while fitting the new belt. Ensure that the wire loop on the tensioner is hooked behind the bolt on the block.

Lithopsian: /* Waterpump Change */ your -> you're

2023-03-14T17:49:32Z

Waterpump Change: your -> you're

← Older revision		Revision as of 17:49, 14 March 2023
Line 132:		Line 132:
	===Waterpump Change===		===Waterpump Change===

	21 If you intend to change the waterpump as well (and if ~~your~~ in here already its probably worth it !!), now is the time to do it. Drain the coolant by undoing and hoses that enter both side rails at the rear of the car		21 If you intend to change the waterpump as well (and if you're in here already its probably worth it !!), now is the time to do it. Drain the coolant by undoing and hoses that enter both side rails at the rear of the car


	22. Unbolt the old pump and remove it. (Expect more coolant to flow from the engine block). There are 6 bolts circled in the photo. The top left is bolted from the rear side, the bottom right is a pillar bolt (used for the front cover as well) and there are two dowels, squared in the photo. Check that the old rubber sealant ring was removed with the old pump and if there is any corrosion around the face/dowels remove with wet an dry paper. The block surface should be clean to allow the new pump to fit well		22. Unbolt the old pump and remove it. (Expect more coolant to flow from the engine block). There are 6 bolts circled in the photo. The top left is bolted from the rear side, the bottom right is a pillar bolt (used for the front cover as well) and there are two dowels, squared in the photo. Check that the old rubber sealant ring was removed with the old pump and if there is any corrosion around the face/dowels remove with wet an dry paper. The block surface should be clean to allow the new pump to fit well

← Older revision		Revision as of 22:15, 21 December 2025
Line 78:		Line 78:
	9. Remove the alternator belt		9. Remove the alternator belt

	10. Unbolt the upper cam belt cover and manoeuvre it upwards and out via the the engine bay (the cover to clam clearance is tight, but it will come out with minimum force if jiggled about a bit)		10. Unbolt the upper cam belt cover and manoeuvre it upwards and out via the the engine bay (the cover to clam clearance is tight, but it will come out with minimum force if jiggled about a bit). It can also help to loosen the two RHS engine mount bolts by about a centimeter to lower the engine. This gives more access to remove the upper cambelt cover, and it also gives more room to access the crank bolt.

	Ensure that you do not lose the rubber seal that press fits onto the bottom edge of the upper cover		Ensure that you do not lose the rubber seal that press fits onto the bottom edge of the upper cover
Line 94:		Line 94:
	[[File:Crank Pulley and Bolt.JPG\|thumb\|none]]		[[File:Crank Pulley and Bolt.JPG\|thumb\|none]]

	14(a). Remove the lower cam cover		14(a). Remove the lower cam cover (3 bolts, 8mm socket/spanner)

	14(b). Replace the crank bolt (only) and hand tighten.		14(b). Replace the crank bolt (only) and hand tighten.
Line 123:		Line 123:

	20a (Thanks to Dave Andrews for this tip):		20a (Thanks to Dave Andrews for this tip):
	The easiest method is to remove one bolt on the engine mount at a time and weave the belt in between the bolts. Slacken both so that the engine drops by 12-15mm or so. Remove one bolt and push the belt into the gap between. Replace the bolt and tighten to where it was (I.E. 12mm gap), then remove the other bolt and push the belt the rest of the way through the gap. Reverse the process to get the new belt in, then do up both bolts to the correct torque.		The easiest method is to remove one bolt on the engine mount at a time and weave the belt in between the bolts. Slacken both so that the engine drops by 12-15mm or so. Remove one bolt and push the belt into the gap between. Replace the bolt and tighten to where it was (I.E. 12mm gap), then remove the other bolt and push the belt the rest of the way through the gap. Reverse the process to get the new belt in, then do up both bolts to the correct torque (82NM).

	[[File:Engine Mount.JPG\|thumb\|none\|Engine Mount]]		[[File:Engine Mount.JPG\|thumb\|none\|Engine Mount]]
Line 150:		Line 150:

	[[File:Auto Tensioner Wire.JPG\|thumb\|none\|Tensioner Wire Hook Position]]		[[File:Auto Tensioner Wire.JPG\|thumb\|none\|Tensioner Wire Hook Position]]

			25a. Manual Tensioner - Fit the new tensioner into position and secure with the centre bolt but leave it loose enough that the tensioner can pivot. Fit the smaller retaining bolt loosely in the slot.

	26. Fit the new belt onto the crank pulley first. If you marked the belt as per section 18 above, line up the mark on the belt with the sprocket mark. Fit the belt so that approx half of the width is on the sprocket/half is hanging off the front edge. Again this gives you more leeway/flex with the belt as you feed it on.		26. Fit the new belt onto the crank pulley first. If you marked the belt as per section 18 above, line up the mark on the belt with the sprocket mark. Fit the belt so that approx half of the width is on the sprocket/half is hanging off the front edge. Again this gives you more leeway/flex with the belt as you feed it on.
Line 168:		Line 170:
	[[File:Auto Tensioner Setup.JPG\|thumb\|none\|Auto Tensioner Adjustment]]		[[File:Auto Tensioner Setup.JPG\|thumb\|none\|Auto Tensioner Adjustment]]

	30a. "Tighten the centre bolt until it is just ~~posible~~ to move the tensioner lever"		30a. "Tighten the centre bolt until it is just possible to move the tensioner lever"

	30b. "check the belt is central around gears and pulleys		30b. "check the belt is central around gears and pulleys
Line 179:		Line 181:

	(It is quite difficult to hold the allen key on the lever and use a torque wrench in this location. If you tighten this bolt up using the "calibrated hand" method, do not overtighten the bolt.		(It is quite difficult to hold the allen key on the lever and use a torque wrench in this location. If you tighten this bolt up using the "calibrated hand" method, do not overtighten the bolt.

			30e. Manual tensioner - lever the edge of the tensioner bracket upwards with a flathead screwdriver until the belt is held tight enough so that you can twist the right-hand side of the belt (in the middle of the longest run) between 70 and 90 degrees) with your fingers. Tighten the M6 securing bolt to 10nm to hold the tensioner in place. Tighten the tensioner centre bolt to 45NM.

	31. Remove the cam locking tool and the crank locking allen key/scredriver and using a ratchet on the crank bolt, rotate the engine 2 turns clockwise. Check the tensioner pointer is still in the correct position		31. Remove the cam locking tool and the crank locking allen key/scredriver and using a ratchet on the crank bolt, rotate the engine 2 turns clockwise. Check the tensioner pointer is still in the correct position

	32. Remove the crank bolt, refit the cambelt lower cover.		32. Remove the crank bolt, refit the cambelt lower cover. 3 bolts, 10nm

	33. Ensuring the mating surfaces of the crank pulley, washer, bolt and sprocket are clean, refit the crank pulley, washer and bolt. (Do not use a thread lock compound). Make sure the notch on the pulley is keyed to the crank before tightening the bolt hand tight		33. Ensuring the mating surfaces of the crank pulley, washer, bolt and sprocket are clean, refit the crank pulley, washer and bolt. (Do not use a thread lock compound). Make sure the notch on the pulley is keyed to the crank before tightening the bolt hand tight

	34. Replace the crank locking allen key/screwdriver and torque the crank pulley to ~~210Nm~~. This is a significant force even with a long torque wrench. Do not be tempted to just beef up the bolt with a big spanner, numerous instances of the the crank nose being worn away, the pulley undoing and the crank sprocket sliding off because of a loose bolt have been documented with the K series		34. Replace the crank locking allen key/screwdriver and torque the crank pulley to 205Nm. This is a significant force even with a long torque wrench. Do not be tempted to just beef up the bolt with a big spanner, numerous instances of the the crank nose being worn away, the pulley undoing and the crank sprocket sliding off because of a loose bolt have been documented with the K series

	35. Remember to remove the crank locking allen key/screwdriver !!!!		35. Remember to remove the crank locking allen key/screwdriver !!!!
Line 193:		Line 197:

	37. Refit the upper cam belt cover (be careful that the rubber sealing gasket on the lower edge is in the correct place. Its easily knocked off)		37. Refit the upper cam belt cover (be careful that the rubber sealing gasket on the lower edge is in the correct place. Its easily knocked off)

			37a. if you loosened the engine mount bolts, tighten them up and torque to 82NM.

	38. If you have changed the water pump, reconnect all coolant hoses and refill the system with new coolant.		38. If you have changed the water pump, reconnect all coolant hoses and refill the system with new coolant.