Driving light replacement - Revision history

Stu at 09:39, 3 May 2010

2010-05-03T09:39:38Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 09:39, 3 May 2010
Line 27:		Line 27:
	• add some thick silicon lubricant to the threads - I used Hellerman lubricant which is meant for rubber sleeves on electrical wiring, its about the thickness of engine oil and makes refitting the screws much easier.		• add some thick silicon lubricant to the threads - I used Hellerman lubricant which is meant for rubber sleeves on electrical wiring, its about the thickness of engine oil and makes refitting the screws much easier.

	• put a spring on the cut down nylon bolt and screw it into the really outer position - hidden behind in the corner of the clamshell. ~~wind~~ this in is far as you can with your fingers, it should now ~~should~~ compress the spring a little.		• put a spring on the cut down nylon bolt and screw it into the really outer position - hidden behind in the corner of the clamshell. Wind this in as far as you can with your fingers, it should now compress the spring a little.

	• put the new lamp in place		• put the new lamp in place

Stu at 09:20, 3 May 2010

2010-05-03T09:20:46Z

Mr Wiki at 12:54, 17 April 2007

2007-04-17T12:54:38Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 12:54, 17 April 2007
Line 50:		Line 50:

	[[Category:DIY]]		[[Category:DIY]]
			[[Category:Body]]
			[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
			[[Category:S1]]

Stu at 11:46, 18 February 2007

2007-02-18T11:46:39Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 11:46, 18 February 2007
Line 45:		Line 45:
	• wait till dark and point the car at a wall about 10 feet away. turn on the driving lights and adjust the height of the new light so it matches its friend.		• wait till dark and point the car at a wall about 10 feet away. turn on the driving lights and adjust the height of the new light so it matches its friend.

	Much of the ideas above where lifted from previous posts to seloc:[http://forums.seloc.org/~~viewthread.php?tid=~~79350~~&page=1#pid2172518 Thread1~~][http://forums.seloc.org/~~viewthread.php?tid=~~75120~~#pid2128150 Thread2~~]		Much of the ideas above where lifted from previous posts to seloc: [http://forums.seloc.org/t/79350] [http://forums.seloc.org/t/75120]

	If you are very careful this may take an hour.		If you are very careful this may take an hour.

	[[Category:DIY]]		[[Category:DIY]]

Sinatra at 11:40, 8 January 2007

2007-01-08T11:40:11Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 11:40, 8 January 2007
Line 3:		Line 3:
	• Look at your new lamp, Note where it has '''TOP''' moulded into the glass and cut the unnecessary lug, the upper, outer one from the new driving light (don't get this wrong!).		• Look at your new lamp, Note where it has '''TOP''' moulded into the glass and cut the unnecessary lug, the upper, outer one from the new driving light (don't get this wrong!).

	• remove the cap from rear of the new light - it is a ~~byonet~~ fitting, disconnect the new ~~wireing~~ from the lamp, you won't need this, but do look at where the connectors go, you will be attaching the old loom later and you will not be able to see what you are doing.		• remove the cap from rear of the new light - it is a bayonet fitting, disconnect the new wiring from the lamp, you won't need this, but do look at where the connectors go, you will be attaching the old loom later and you will not be able to see what you are doing.

	• Put some silicon grease or vaseline on the outer rim of the back of the new light - where the cap fits. This will make removing the cap when the bulb eventually dies much easier. The lamp housing is ~~aluminum~~ alloy and it tends to corrode in the rain and winter salt which makes getting the cap off a pain.		• Put some silicon grease or vaseline on the outer rim of the back of the new light - where the cap fits. This will make removing the cap when the bulb eventually dies much easier. The lamp housing is aluminium alloy and it tends to corrode in the rain and winter salt which makes getting the cap off a pain.

	• cut a slot in the lower outer bracket on the new lamp, so an M8 screw shank will just slot in. The screw head is quite large and sits in a recess in the bracket so there is no chance of it slipping off once its held in place by the spring and the other two bolts.		• cut a slot in the lower outer bracket on the new lamp, so an M8 screw shank will just slot in. The screw head is quite large and sits in a recess in the bracket so there is no chance of it slipping off once its held in place by the spring and the other two bolts.
Line 23:		Line 23:
	• you can now remove the last screw by pulling on the remaining scrap of the lug towards the middle of the car bending the nylon bolt a little, this will allow you to get a screwdriver on its head; remove and keep the spring behind the lug also.		• you can now remove the last screw by pulling on the remaining scrap of the lug towards the middle of the car bending the nylon bolt a little, this will allow you to get a screwdriver on its head; remove and keep the spring behind the lug also.

	• Its almost impossible to get this screw back in (because its so long), however it doesn't need to be this long. Cut ~~roubhly~~ ½ inch from one of the nylon bolts using a sharp knife. Taper the thread a little so the end is slightly pointed, this will make it easier to get back in. It needs to be about ½ inch longer than the lamp mounting spring.		• Its almost impossible to get this screw back in (because its so long), however it doesn't need to be this long. Cut roughly ½ inch from one of the nylon bolts using a sharp knife. Taper the thread a little so the end is slightly pointed, this will make it easier to get back in. It needs to be about ½ inch longer than the lamp mounting spring.

	• add some thick silicon lubricant to the threads - I used Hellerman lubricant which is meant for rubber sleeves on electrical wiring, its about the thickness of engine oil and makes refitting the screws much easier.		• add some thick silicon lubricant to the threads - I used Hellerman lubricant which is meant for rubber sleeves on electrical wiring, its about the thickness of engine oil and makes refitting the screws much easier.
Line 47:		Line 47:
	Much of the ideas above where lifted from previous posts to seloc:[http://forums.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=79350&page=1#pid2172518 Thread1][http://forums.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=75120#pid2128150 Thread2]		Much of the ideas above where lifted from previous posts to seloc:[http://forums.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=79350&page=1#pid2172518 Thread1][http://forums.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=75120#pid2128150 Thread2]

	If you are very ~~carefull~~ this may take an hour.		If you are very careful this may take an hour.

	[[Category:DIY]]		[[Category:DIY]]

Sinatra at 21:44, 7 January 2007

2007-01-07T21:44:31Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 21:44, 7 January 2007
Line 1:		Line 1:
	==How to replace the driving lamps on a ~~Serise~~ 1 Elise without removing the ~~fromt~~ clam.==		==How to replace the driving lamps on a Series 1 Elise without removing the front clam.==

	• Look at your new lamp, Note where it has '''TOP''' moulded into the glass and cut the ~~unnescessary~~ lug, the upper, outer one from the new driving light (don't get this wrong!).		• Look at your new lamp, Note where it has '''TOP''' moulded into the glass and cut the unnecessary lug, the upper, outer one from the new driving light (don't get this wrong!).

	• remove the cap from rear of the new light - it is a byonet fitting, disconnect the new wireing from the lamp, you won't need this, but do look at where the connectors go, you will be attaching the old loom later and you will not be able to see what you are doing.		• remove the cap from rear of the new light - it is a byonet fitting, disconnect the new wireing from the lamp, you won't need this, but do look at where the connectors go, you will be attaching the old loom later and you will not be able to see what you are doing.

	• Put some silicon grease or ~~vasaline~~ on the outer rim of the back of the new light - where the cap fits. This will make removing the cap when the bulb eventually dies much easier. The lamp housing is aluminum alloy and it tends to corrode in the rain and winter salt which makes getting the cap off a pain.		• Put some silicon grease or vaseline on the outer rim of the back of the new light - where the cap fits. This will make removing the cap when the bulb eventually dies much easier. The lamp housing is aluminum alloy and it tends to corrode in the rain and winter salt which makes getting the cap off a pain.

	• cut a slot in the lower outer bracket on the new lamp, so an M8 screw shank will just slot in. The screw head is quite large and sits in a recess in the bracket so there is no chance of it slipping off once its held in place by the spring and the other two bolts.		• cut a slot in the lower outer bracket on the new lamp, so an M8 screw shank will just slot in. The screw head is quite large and sits in a recess in the bracket so there is no chance of it slipping off once its held in place by the spring and the other two bolts.

Sinatra at 18:54, 30 December 2006

2006-12-30T18:54:53Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 18:54, 30 December 2006
Line 1:		Line 1:
	== How to replace the driving lamps on a Serise 1 Elise without		==How to replace the driving lamps on a Serise 1 Elise without removing the fromt clam.==
	removing the fromt clam. ==

	• Look at your new lamp, Note where it has '''TOP''' moulded into the glass and cut the unnescessary lug, the upper, outer one from the new driving light (don't get this wrong!).		• Look at your new lamp, Note where it has '''TOP''' moulded into the glass and cut the unnescessary lug, the upper, outer one from the new driving light (don't get this wrong!).

cocjh1 at 15:24, 16 August 2006

2006-08-16T15:24:17Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 15:24, 16 August 2006
Line 49:		Line 49:

	If you are very carefull this may take an hour.		If you are very carefull this may take an hour.

			[[Category:DIY]]

Steve69: S1 driving lamp replacement

2006-08-14T20:10:54Z

S1 driving lamp replacement

New page

== How to replace the driving lamps on a Serise 1 Elise without
removing the fromt clam. ==

• Look at your new lamp, Note where it has '''TOP''' moulded into the glass and cut the unnescessary lug, the upper, outer one from the new driving light (don't get this wrong!).

• remove the cap from rear of the new light - it is a byonet fitting, disconnect the new wireing from the lamp, you won't need this, but do look at where the connectors go, you will be attaching the old loom later and you will not be able to see what you are doing.

• Put some silicon grease or vasaline on the outer rim of the back of the new light - where the cap fits. This will make removing the cap when the bulb eventually dies much easier. The lamp housing is aluminum alloy and it tends to corrode in the rain and winter salt which makes getting the cap off a pain.

• cut a slot in the lower outer bracket on the new lamp, so an M8 screw shank will just slot in. The screw head is quite large and sits in a recess in the bracket so there is no chance of it slipping off once its held in place by the spring and the other two bolts.

• remove the front grill - two posidrive screws on my 111S, these where very rusty and needed a very well fitting screwdriver to get them out. I replaced them with stainless (2x ¾inch No8)

• wrap a couple of layers of insulating tape around the corner of the "mouth" of the clamshell - to protect the paint.

• spray the threads of the three nylon fixing screws with silicon lube or WD40.

• remove the two inner Nylon screws, use a big screwdriver to prevent damage to the screw heads. Remove the springs behind the lugs taking care not to drop them into the clamshell.

• use a pad-saw fitted with a hacksaw blade to cut the outside lug off the light.

• withdraw the broken light.

• you can now remove the last screw by pulling on the remaining scrap of the lug towards the middle of the car bending the nylon bolt a little, this will allow you to get a screwdriver on its head; remove and keep the spring behind the lug also.

• Its almost impossible to get this screw back in (because its so long), however it doesn't need to be this long. Cut roubhly ½ inch from one of the nylon bolts using a sharp knife. Taper the thread a little so the end is slightly pointed, this will make it easier to get back in. It needs to be about ½ inch longer than the lamp mounting spring.

• add some thick silicon lubricant to the threads - I used Hellerman lubricant which is meant for rubber sleeves on electrical wiring, its about the thickness of engine oil and makes refitting the screws much easier.

• put a spring on the cut down nylon bolt and screw it into the really outer position - hidden behind in the corner of the clamshell. wind this in is far as you can with your fingers, it should now should compress the spring a little.

• put the new lamp in place

• use a small flat blade screwdriver to compress the outer spring and hook the opened lug on he lamp under the head of the nylon bolt.

• If you have gearys driving lamp covers now's the time to push one on on.

• put the two nylon bolts in with their springs behind them.

• plug in the blade connectors on the bulb and on the lamp housing, and put the cap on the back of the lamp.

• If you are replacing just one lamp, you need remove only the two inner screws and springs on the other lamp to allow enough movement to get one of gearys covers on that one too - don't forget to clean the old lamp, the covers don't come off!

• replace the front grill.

• wait till dark and point the car at a wall about 10 feet away. turn on the driving lights and adjust the height of the new light so it matches its friend.

Much of the ideas above where lifted from previous posts to seloc:[http://forums.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=79350&page=1#pid2172518 Thread1][http://forums.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=75120#pid2128150 Thread2]

If you are very carefull this may take an hour.

← Older revision		Revision as of 09:20, 3 May 2010
Line 23:		Line 23:
	• you can now remove the last screw by pulling on the remaining scrap of the lug towards the middle of the car bending the nylon bolt a little, this will allow you to get a screwdriver on its head; remove and keep the spring behind the lug also.		• you can now remove the last screw by pulling on the remaining scrap of the lug towards the middle of the car bending the nylon bolt a little, this will allow you to get a screwdriver on its head; remove and keep the spring behind the lug also.

	• ~~Its~~ almost impossible to get this screw back in (because ~~its~~ so long), however it doesn't need to be this long. Cut roughly ½ inch from one of the nylon bolts using a sharp knife. Taper the thread a little so the end is slightly pointed, this will make it easier to get back in. It needs to be about ½ inch longer than the lamp mounting spring.		• It's almost impossible to get this screw back in (because it's so long), however it doesn't need to be this long. Cut roughly ½ inch from one of the nylon bolts using a sharp knife. Taper the thread a little so the end is slightly pointed, this will make it easier to get back in. It needs to be about ½ inch longer than the lamp mounting spring.

	• add some thick silicon lubricant to the threads - I used Hellerman lubricant which is meant for rubber sleeves on electrical wiring, its about the thickness of engine oil and makes refitting the screws much easier.		• add some thick silicon lubricant to the threads - I used Hellerman lubricant which is meant for rubber sleeves on electrical wiring, its about the thickness of engine oil and makes refitting the screws much easier.
Line 33:		Line 33:
	• use a small flat blade screwdriver to compress the outer spring and hook the opened lug on he lamp under the head of the nylon bolt.		• use a small flat blade screwdriver to compress the outer spring and hook the opened lug on he lamp under the head of the nylon bolt.

	• If you have ~~gearys~~ driving lamp covers now's the time to push one on on.		• If you have [[eliseparts\|Geary's]] driving lamp covers now's the time to push one on.

	• put the two nylon bolts in with their springs behind them.		• put the two nylon bolts in with their springs behind them.
Line 39:		Line 39:
	• plug in the blade connectors on the bulb and on the lamp housing, and put the cap on the back of the lamp.		• plug in the blade connectors on the bulb and on the lamp housing, and put the cap on the back of the lamp.

	• If you are replacing just one lamp, you need remove only the two inner screws and springs on the other lamp to allow enough movement to get one of ~~gearys~~ covers on that one too - don't forget to clean the old lamp, the covers don't come off!		• If you are replacing just one lamp, you need remove only the two inner screws and springs on the other lamp to allow enough movement to get one of [[eliseparts\|Geary's]] covers on that one too - don't forget to clean the old lamp, the covers don't come off!

	• replace the front grill.		• replace the front grill.

	• wait till dark and point the car at a wall about 10 feet away. ~~turn~~ on the driving lights and adjust the height of the new light so it matches its friend.		• wait till dark and point the car at a wall about 10 feet away. Turn on the driving lights and adjust the height of the new light so it matches its friend.

	Much of the ideas above where lifted from previous posts to seloc: [http://forums.seloc.org/t/79350] [http://forums.seloc.org/t/75120]		Much of the ideas above where lifted from previous posts to seloc: [http://forums.seloc.org/t/79350][http://forums.seloc.org/t/75120]

	If you are very careful this may take an hour.		If you are very careful this may take an hour.