How to Rebuild a Brembo Caliper - Revision history

Arno: /* Disassembly */

2020-02-11T12:10:29Z

Disassembly

← Older revision		Revision as of 12:10, 11 February 2020
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	Unscrew the hex stop peg in the boss of the caliper. You will need a 4.5mm allen key which is an uncommon size.		Unscrew the hex stop peg in the boss of the caliper. You will need a 4.5mm allen key which is an uncommon size.

			In case the grub screw/peg strips and you need to drill it out, the following diagram shows the sizes:

			[[Image:Grubscrew-brembo.jpg]]

			By drilling (or preferrably milling) out at 9.5mm the threads should be spared and after drilling through deep enough the tapered section should be cut free and can be re-used with a normal M10x1.00 grubscrew to re-seal the hole. The remains of the thread can be picked out and cleaned up.

	[[Image:Brembo_Caliper_18.JPG]]		[[Image:Brembo_Caliper_18.JPG]]
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	Remove the ball bearing drive plate, the needle bearing, and the flat washer.		Remove the ball bearing drive plate, the needle bearing, and the flat washer.
	Remove the old piston seal.		Remove the old piston seal.



	=== Reassembly ===		=== Reassembly ===

Arno: /* Pre-Warning */

2013-12-10T13:20:08Z

Pre-Warning

← Older revision		Revision as of 13:20, 10 December 2013
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	'''Before you start taking things apart, first ensure that your calipers are servicable.'''		'''Before you start taking things apart, first ensure that your calipers are servicable.'''
	First make sure that you can remove the tiny grub screw that you can see in this photo. It needs a 4.5mm allen key which is a fairly unusual size.		First make sure that you can remove the tiny grub screw that you can see in this photo. It needs a 4.5mm allen key which is a fairly unusual size. An alternative may be to use an imperial 3/16" allen key, although this is often a very tight fit and corrosion inside the allen socket may make it difficult to seat fully.

	[[Image:grubscrew.JPG]]		[[Image:grubscrew.JPG]]

Junks at 21:55, 24 August 2012

2012-08-24T21:55:27Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 21:55, 24 August 2012
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	[[Image:Brembo_Caliper_11.JPG]]		[[Image:Brembo_Caliper_11.JPG]]


			NB Only follow the following procedure if you have access to a new screw as 80% of the time they shear off & are not available to buy separately. You can get the whole assembly with the snap-ring out of the bore with some curved tools (eg. bend a screwdriver ) so it comes out as 1 piece. (Courtesy of Arno)

	Remove the dust boot.		Remove the dust boot.

40mmBrakes: /* Pre-Warning */

2009-05-14T00:05:58Z

Pre-Warning

← Older revision		Revision as of 00:05, 14 May 2009
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	A brute force solution is to take an angle grinder to the boss and remove the excess material. Cut the boss flush with the top of the grub screw. The heat generated by this also helps to free up the screw.		A brute force solution is to take an angle grinder to the boss and remove the excess material. Cut the boss flush with the top of the grub screw. The heat generated by this also helps to free up the screw.

	The other part to check is the 13mm bolt that holds the handbrake arm to the caliper. Make sure that this loosens ~~ass~~ it has a tendency to go soft and shear off.		The other part to check is the 13mm bolt that holds the handbrake arm to the caliper. Make sure that this loosens as it has a tendency to go soft and shear off. In any case you should not expect the internals of the caliper to support the torque needed to loosen the bolt! The small parts that are engaged with parking brake actuation are not strong enough to resist the torque of a stuck bolt. You should put the handbrake arm (only) in a vise and unscrew the bolt so that the resistance torque is only applied to the arm.

	Bear in mind that it's a straightforward job to refurb the sliders but examine your calipers carefully before attempting to replace the piston seals.		Bear in mind that it's a straightforward job to refurb the sliders but examine your calipers carefully before attempting to replace the piston seals.

40mmBrakes: /* Pre-Warning */

2009-05-14T00:03:09Z

Pre-Warning

← Older revision		Revision as of 00:03, 14 May 2009
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	[[Image:grubscrew.JPG]]		[[Image:grubscrew.JPG]]

	Unfortunately the grub screw sits deeply recesed in the boss of the caliper by 10-12mm. By the time your calipers reach an age where they would befefit from new seals, the thread in the boss has become so corroded that it's nigh-on impossible to remove the grub screw. The ~~easiest~~ solution is to take an angle grinder to the boss and remove the excess material. Cut the boss flush with the top of the grub screw. The heat generated by this also helps to free up the screw.		Unfortunately the grub screw sits deeply recesed in the boss of the caliper by 10-12mm. By the time your calipers reach an age where they would befefit from new seals, the thread in the boss has become so corroded that it's nigh-on impossible to remove the grub screw.

			A no-harm solution is to fill the cavity with penetrating oil and come back tomorrow. The screw is in tight because the tapered end acts as a fluid seal; there is brake fluid on the opposite side. Once it breaks loose, it may not be that difficult to remove.

			A brute force solution is to take an angle grinder to the boss and remove the excess material. Cut the boss flush with the top of the grub screw. The heat generated by this also helps to free up the screw.

	The other part to check is the 13mm bolt that holds the handbrake arm to the caliper. Make sure that this loosens ass it has a tendency to go soft and shear off.		The other part to check is the 13mm bolt that holds the handbrake arm to the caliper. Make sure that this loosens ass it has a tendency to go soft and shear off.

	Bear in mind that it's a straightforward job to refurb the sliders but examine your calipers carefully before attempting to replace the piston seals.		Bear in mind that it's a straightforward job to refurb the sliders but examine your calipers carefully before attempting to replace the piston seals.



	===Repair===		===Repair===

40mmBrakes at 12:21, 13 May 2009

2009-05-13T12:21:58Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 12:21, 13 May 2009
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	Lotus Elise Rear Caliper Rebuild and Upgrade		Lotus Elise Rear Caliper Rebuild and Upgrade

	This article contributed by 40mmBrakes ( http://40mmbrakes.auto.officelive.com/default.aspx )		This article originally contributed by 40mmBrakes ( http://40mmbrakes.auto.officelive.com/default.aspx )
	===Pre-Warning===		===Pre-Warning===

40mmBrakes at 12:21, 13 May 2009

2009-05-13T12:21:41Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 12:21, 13 May 2009
Line 1:		Line 1:
	Lotus Elise Rear Caliper Rebuild and Upgrade		Lotus Elise Rear Caliper Rebuild and Upgrade

			This article contributed by 40mmBrakes ( http://40mmbrakes.auto.officelive.com/default.aspx )
	===Pre-Warning===		===Pre-Warning===

Andy R at 22:05, 13 October 2008

2008-10-13T22:05:15Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 22:05, 13 October 2008
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	Hint 2: Sometimes you can't push on the brake lever arm with the C-clamp to insert piston, you need to take off the arm and push on casting using socket.		Hint 2: Sometimes you can't push on the brake lever arm with the C-clamp to insert piston, you need to take off the arm and push on casting using socket.

			Hint 3: Tons of force may not really be necessary. There are two ways to do it even without a G-clamp. The first way is to wind in the worm shaft in to compress the spring - if you're lucky there will be enough friction to hold the spring compressed. Listen whilst you reassemble it in case it comes un-sprung. If it stays sprung, you should be able to get the snap ring to snap by hand pressure on the piston. Alternatively, mount the caliper in a vice. Using a pair of circlip pliers or whatever tool you use to retract the piston, wind the piston clockwise while at the same time applying a reasonable amount of pressure to drive the piston into the caliper. You should hear the circlip click in place.

	When the snap ring engages, reinstall the hex head stop peg.		When the snap ring engages, reinstall the hex head stop peg.

Liam at 12:39, 2 June 2007

2007-06-02T12:39:19Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 12:39, 2 June 2007
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	===Pre-Warning===		===Pre-Warning===

	'''Before you start ~~beware~~ that your calipers ~~may not be~~ servicable. ~~This fact hinges on one~~ tiny ~~little~~ grub screw that you can see in this photo~~'''~~		'''Before you start taking things apart, first ensure that your calipers are servicable.'''
			First make sure that you can remove the tiny grub screw that you can see in this photo. It needs a 4.5mm allen key which is a fairly unusual size.

	[[Image:grubscrew.JPG]]		[[Image:grubscrew.JPG]]

	Unfortunately the grub screw sits deeply recesed in the boss of the caliper by ~~approx 10mm~~. By the time your calipers reach an age where they would befefit from new seals, the thread in the boss has become so corroded that it's nigh-on impossible to remove the grub screw.		Unfortunately the grub screw sits deeply recesed in the boss of the caliper by 10-12mm. By the time your calipers reach an age where they would befefit from new seals, the thread in the boss has become so corroded that it's nigh-on impossible to remove the grub screw. The easiest solution is to take an angle grinder to the boss and remove the excess material. Cut the boss flush with the top of the grub screw. The heat generated by this also helps to free up the screw.

	~~I have ended up breaking two different types of allen key in my attenpts~~ to ~~release~~ the ~~grub screws. Given a thread tap, a blow torch, lots of plusgas and even more patience, I may have been able~~ to ~~remove then~~.~~.. but I doubt~~ it.		The other part to check is the 13mm bolt that holds the handbrake arm to the caliper. Make sure that this loosens ass it has a tendency to go soft and shear off.

	~~This appears to be~~ a ~~serious design flaw of the Brembo calipers. I will now be ordering 2 new ones (ouch!) and the first thing I'll do with them is take an angle grinder~~ to ~~the boss so that there is no recessed thread to "~~go ~~bad". The alternative is to put a bolt in the recess to protect the thread~~.

	Bear in mind that it's a straightforward job to refurb the sliders but examine your calipers carefully before attempting to replace the piston seals.		Bear in mind that it's a straightforward job to refurb the sliders but examine your calipers carefully before attempting to replace the piston seals.
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	===~~Repaire~~===		===Repair===


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	This conversion still allows the use of all the other standard size parts that come in the KC-83017 kit.		This conversion still allows the use of all the other standard size parts that come in the KC-83017 kit.




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	In any case, the piston will seem to be very low, lower than the dust boot wrinkles, before the snap ring engages. If the snap ring does not engage, the parking brake system has nothing to push on to “disengage.”		In any case, the piston will seem to be very low, lower than the dust boot wrinkles, before the snap ring engages. If the snap ring does not engage, the parking brake system has nothing to push on to “disengage.”

			Hint 1: A G-clamp may not provide sufficient force to engage the snap ring. It may take 2-3 tons of pressure on a bench press before you hear the snap ring click into position.

	Hint: Sometimes you can't push on the brake lever arm with the C-clamp to insert piston, you need to take off the arm and push on casting using socket.		Hint 2: Sometimes you can't push on the brake lever arm with the C-clamp to insert piston, you need to take off the arm and push on casting using socket.

	When the snap ring engages, reinstall the hex head stop peg.		When the snap ring engages, reinstall the hex head stop peg.

Liam at 13:45, 14 May 2007

2007-05-14T13:45:53Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 13:45, 14 May 2007
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	Remove the dust boot.		Remove the dust boot.
	With a ~~4.5 mm~~ allen key, remove the screw. This screw has an O-ring around the head, so do not reach in and use pliers. It is also held in with thread lock glue, so it feels a little stuck before it comes loose. It may also drag the whole way out. Use the proper allen key, since the metal is soft and you’ll easily round the hole.		With a 4mm allen key, remove the screw. This screw has an O-ring around the head, so do not reach in and use pliers. It is also held in with thread lock glue, so it feels a little stuck before it comes loose. It may also drag the whole way out. Use the proper allen key, since the metal is soft and you’ll easily round the hole.


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	[[Image:Brembo_Caliper_17.JPG]]		[[Image:Brembo_Caliper_17.JPG]]

	Unscrew the hex stop peg in the boss of the caliper.		Unscrew the hex stop peg in the boss of the caliper. You will need a 4.5mm allen key which is an uncommon size.