Inlet manifold gasket failure - Revision history

AndyKay: added photo suggesting to remove 2 bolts to help access last Manifold bolt and suggestion to remove alu divider

2015-04-20T11:05:25Z

added photo suggesting to remove 2 bolts to help access last Manifold bolt and suggestion to remove alu divider

← Older revision		Revision as of 11:05, 20 April 2015
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	The gasket sits inside a recess in the face of the inlet manifold where it joins to the engine. There are tabs on either end on the lower side to pull it out, it may be blackened from use. Early gaskets are black, an improved one was manufactured and is known as the green gasket (it's green) which can be sourced from between a pound to six pounds (2008).Part no. LKJ101110L from your local landrover dealer.		The gasket sits inside a recess in the face of the inlet manifold where it joins to the engine. There are tabs on either end on the lower side to pull it out, it may be blackened from use. Early gaskets are black, an improved one was manufactured and is known as the green gasket (it's green) which can be sourced from between a pound to six pounds (2008).Part no. LKJ101110L from your local landrover dealer.

	It can be changed without fully removing the inlet manifold by simply fully unscrewing the nuts on the manifold studs, you may find some studs will come out rather than the nut if rusted. The nuts under the inlet manifold are the hardest to access, especially on the later S1 Elise where the boot divider is a permanent fixture. Have ready both a short and long socket extension, preferably the type that allow angled movement on the socket, and long and short sockets. Removing the drivers side rear wheel arch liner will help greatly.		It can be changed without fully removing the inlet manifold by simply fully unscrewing the nuts on the manifold studs, you may find some studs will come out rather than the nut if rusted. The nuts under the inlet manifold are the hardest to access, especially on the later S1 Elise where the boot divider is a permanent fixture. However it is advisable to remove the divider (2 bolts on top, 7 hex bolts). This makes the job a lot easier.
			To get to the last Manifold bolt furthest away from the drivers side wheel arch, it may help to remove these 2 nuts shown with the red arrows below. This means you can have the socket fully on the bolt, rather than at an angle where you risk rounding the edges off.
			<div style="width:100px;">[[File:Imgf bolts.png]]</div>

			Have ready both a short and long socket extension, preferably the type that allow angled movement on the socket, and long and short sockets. Removing the drivers side rear wheel arch liner will help greatly if you can't remove the aluminium divider.

1216ha at 22:07, 12 April 2010

2010-04-12T22:07:12Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 22:07, 12 April 2010
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	The Inlet manifold gasket can fail and allow air leaks and coolant/anti-freeze to leak into the cylinder ahead of the injectors. Tell tale signs can include rusty spark plugs on cylinder 1 and 4, sometimes even all four, lumpy idle or misfiring, high emissions, jerky acceleration and deceleration when coming off the accelerator, anti-freeze around the inlet manifold, unburnt fuel and possibly destroyed catalytic converter.		The Inlet manifold gasket can fail and allow air leaks and coolant/anti-freeze to leak into the cylinder ahead of the injectors. Tell tale signs can include rusty spark plugs on cylinder 1 and 4, sometimes even all four, lumpy idle or misfiring, high emissions, jerky acceleration and deceleration when coming off the accelerator, anti-freeze around the inlet manifold, unburnt fuel and possibly destroyed catalytic converter.

	The gasket sits inside a recess in the face of the inlet manifold where it joins to the engine. There are tabs on either end on the lower side to pull it out, it may be blackened from use. Early gaskets are black, an improved one was manufactured and is known as the green gasket (it's green) which can be sourced from between a pound to six pounds (2008).		The gasket sits inside a recess in the face of the inlet manifold where it joins to the engine. There are tabs on either end on the lower side to pull it out, it may be blackened from use. Early gaskets are black, an improved one was manufactured and is known as the green gasket (it's green) which can be sourced from between a pound to six pounds (2008).Part no. LKJ101110L from your local landrover dealer.

	It can be changed without fully removing the inlet manifold by simply fully unscrewing the nuts on the manifold studs, you may find some studs will come out rather than the nut if rusted. The nuts under the inlet manifold are the hardest to access, especially on the later S1 Elise where the boot divider is a permanent fixture. Have ready both a short and long socket extension, preferably the type that allow angled movement on the socket, and long and short sockets. Removing the drivers side rear wheel arch liner will help greatly.		It can be changed without fully removing the inlet manifold by simply fully unscrewing the nuts on the manifold studs, you may find some studs will come out rather than the nut if rusted. The nuts under the inlet manifold are the hardest to access, especially on the later S1 Elise where the boot divider is a permanent fixture. Have ready both a short and long socket extension, preferably the type that allow angled movement on the socket, and long and short sockets. Removing the drivers side rear wheel arch liner will help greatly.

Mr Wiki at 11:35, 1 August 2008

2008-08-01T11:35:39Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 11:35, 1 August 2008
Line 1:		Line 1:
	The Inlet manifold gasket can fail and allow air leaks and coolant/anti-freeze to leak into the cylinder ahead of the injectors. Tell tale signs can include rusty spark plugs on cylinder 1 and 4, sometimes even all four, lumpy idle or misfiring, high emissions, jerky acceleration and deceleration when coming off the accelerator, anti-freeze around the inlet manifold, unburnt fuel and possibly destroyed catalytic ~~convertor~~.		The Inlet manifold gasket can fail and allow air leaks and coolant/anti-freeze to leak into the cylinder ahead of the injectors. Tell tale signs can include rusty spark plugs on cylinder 1 and 4, sometimes even all four, lumpy idle or misfiring, high emissions, jerky acceleration and deceleration when coming off the accelerator, anti-freeze around the inlet manifold, unburnt fuel and possibly destroyed catalytic converter.

	The gasket sits inside a recess in the face of the inlet manifold where it joins to the engine. There are tabs on either end on the lower side to pull it out, it may be blackened from use. Early gaskets are black, an improved one was manufactured and is known as the green gasket (it's green) which can be sourced from between a pound to six pounds (2008).		The gasket sits inside a recess in the face of the inlet manifold where it joins to the engine. There are tabs on either end on the lower side to pull it out, it may be blackened from use. Early gaskets are black, an improved one was manufactured and is known as the green gasket (it's green) which can be sourced from between a pound to six pounds (2008).

	It can be changed without fully removing the inlet manifold by simply fully unscrewing the nuts on the manifold studs, you may find some studs will come out rather than the nut if rusted. The nuts under the inlet manifold are the hardest to access, especially on the later S1 Elise where the boot divider is a permanent fixture. Have ready both a short and long socket extension, preferably the type that allow angled movement on the socket, and long and short sockets. Removing the drivers side rear wheel arch liner will help greatly.		It can be changed without fully removing the inlet manifold by simply fully unscrewing the nuts on the manifold studs, you may find some studs will come out rather than the nut if rusted. The nuts under the inlet manifold are the hardest to access, especially on the later S1 Elise where the boot divider is a permanent fixture. Have ready both a short and long socket extension, preferably the type that allow angled movement on the socket, and long and short sockets. Removing the drivers side rear wheel arch liner will help greatly.


			[[Category:Engine Cooling]]
			[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
			[[Category:S1]]
			[[Category:S2]]

cddiment at 21:48, 31 July 2008

2008-07-31T21:48:20Z

New page

The Inlet manifold gasket can fail and allow air leaks and coolant/anti-freeze to leak into the cylinder ahead of the injectors. Tell tale signs can include rusty spark plugs on cylinder 1 and 4, sometimes even all four, lumpy idle or misfiring, high emissions, jerky acceleration and deceleration when coming off the accelerator, anti-freeze around the inlet manifold, unburnt fuel and possibly destroyed catalytic convertor.

The gasket sits inside a recess in the face of the inlet manifold where it joins to the engine. There are tabs on either end on the lower side to pull it out, it may be blackened from use. Early gaskets are black, an improved one was manufactured and is known as the green gasket (it's green) which can be sourced from between a pound to six pounds (2008).

It can be changed without fully removing the inlet manifold by simply fully unscrewing the nuts on the manifold studs, you may find some studs will come out rather than the nut if rusted. The nuts under the inlet manifold are the hardest to access, especially on the later S1 Elise where the boot divider is a permanent fixture. Have ready both a short and long socket extension, preferably the type that allow angled movement on the socket, and long and short sockets. Removing the drivers side rear wheel arch liner will help greatly.