Remote Boot Release for S2 - Revision history

Arisutea: /* How to do it */

2011-04-17T20:17:43Z

How to do it

← Older revision		Revision as of 20:17, 17 April 2011
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	##There are 4 of those rawlplug-screw efforts holding it in place. They may need some persuading to come out (use a flat headed screwdriver).		##There are 4 of those rawlplug-screw efforts holding it in place. They may need some persuading to come out (use a flat headed screwdriver).
	##There is also some Silkaflex/Bathroom sealant black gunky stuff holding it in place. It will come off with a but of persistance.		##There is also some Silkaflex/Bathroom sealant black gunky stuff holding it in place. It will come off with a but of persistance.
	#You will now be able to see the bottom of the lock barrel. Put your key in the lock and turn it while looking at the underside of the boot lid. Notice how when you turn it, it turns the cam bit slightly and it pulls a small spring/bit of wire which pulls on the lock mechanism to release it. This is what we are going to replicate with the ~~bike~~ cable.		#You will now be able to see the bottom of the lock barrel. Put your key in the lock and turn it while looking at the underside of the boot lid. Notice how when you turn it, it turns the cam bit slightly and it pulls a small spring/bit of wire which pulls on the lock mechanism to release it. This is what we are going to replicate with the bicycle cable.
	##~~You may need~~ to ~~make~~ the hole in the ~~cam slightly larger (about 1-2mm) to fit~~ the ~~both~~ the ~~existing spring~~ and the bike ~~wire/puller bit~~ through at the ~~same time~~.		#Feed the outer cable (from left to right) through the boot-lid support bracket (see image).
			#If your bicycle cable has a connector on both ends of the cable, cut the smallest of the two connectors off with a pair of sharp wire cutters and feed it through the outer cable.
			#Pick up the black cover you just removed and hold it as though there it is fitted to the car. Notice on the right is a small hole in addition to the screw holes.
			##Take on of your bike cable adjusters and remove the nut from it.
			##Put the "bolt" bit of the adjuster through the hole and attach the nut to the other side - tighten it up so it stays there.
			##Feed the bike cable through the middle of the adjuster, the adjuster will stop the outer cable going through it.
			##

	==Random Questions==		==Random Questions==

Arisutea: /* How to do it */

2011-04-17T20:06:02Z

How to do it

← Older revision		Revision as of 20:06, 17 April 2011
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	##On the other end of the short wire, wind the other ends of this wire into the 12v "main" wire - attach both wires to the same female blade connector - connect this to pin 85 on the relay.		##On the other end of the short wire, wind the other ends of this wire into the 12v "main" wire - attach both wires to the same female blade connector - connect this to pin 85 on the relay.
	#Run 2 lengths of wire for your button.		#Run 2 lengths of wire for your button.
	##~~Attach~~ a female blade connector and ~~run one wire from~~ pin 86 on your relay to your button.		##At one end of one of the lengths of wire, attach a female blade connector and connect it to pin 86 on your relay. Attach the other end to your button.
	##~~Run another wire from~~ the button to the your "main" ground wire - do not put a connector on this yet.		##From the other terminal of your button, run the second wire back to the your "main" ground wire - do not put a connector on this yet.
	#Run a live and ground wire from the relay, through the bulkhead, to where you would like the solenoid to live in the engine bay.		#Run a live and ground wire from the relay, through the bulkhead, to where you would like the solenoid to live in the engine bay.
	##On the relay side of the live wire, attach a female blade connector and attach it to pin 87 of the relay.		##On the relay side of the live wire, attach a female blade connector and attach it to pin 87 of the relay.
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	##Check your solenoids connectors - if you need to, replace the connectors with a male blade connectors - this way you can switch the cables round if you connect them up and the solenoid moves the wrong way (which it probably will).		##Check your solenoids connectors - if you need to, replace the connectors with a male blade connectors - this way you can switch the cables round if you connect them up and the solenoid moves the wrong way (which it probably will).
	##Take the ground wire running from the solenoid through the bulkhead to the button ground wire and twist the ends together - attach a both wires to the same male blade connector and connect it to the "main" ground wire.		##Take the ground wire running from the solenoid through the bulkhead to the button ground wire and twist the ends together - attach a both wires to the same male blade connector and connect it to the "main" ground wire.
	#		#In theory (and if I've not forgotten anything) you should have a everything completely wired up.
			##Check the diagram on the right to make sure it matches up.
			##Check all the connections are solid, and if you aren't using insulated connectors, wrap some insulation tape around the connections to not leave any exposed wire.
			#Be brave, attach the battery terminals again and press the button. You should hear the relay click and the solenoid move.
			##If it doesn't check all your connections are solid and that the fuse for the auxiliary power socket is not broken.
			##Check the solenoid is PULLING in when you press the button - if it isn't, switch the two wires near the solenoid around.
			#Get a beer / drink or something. If it was as hot and sunny outside as it was when I was doing this, check the back of your next/face/arms etc for sunburn and apply anti-sunburn cream where needed.
			#Open the boot lid and prop it open.
			#Remove the black cover which is on the underside of the boot-lid (it covers the lock barrel & the mechanism.
			##There are 4 of those rawlplug-screw efforts holding it in place. They may need some persuading to come out (use a flat headed screwdriver).
			##There is also some Silkaflex/Bathroom sealant black gunky stuff holding it in place. It will come off with a but of persistance.
			#You will now be able to see the bottom of the lock barrel. Put your key in the lock and turn it while looking at the underside of the boot lid. Notice how when you turn it, it turns the cam bit slightly and it pulls a small spring/bit of wire which pulls on the lock mechanism to release it. This is what we are going to replicate with the bike cable.
			##You may need to make the hole in the cam slightly larger (about 1-2mm) to fit the both the existing spring and the bike wire/puller bit through at the same time.

	==Random Questions==		==Random Questions==

Arisutea: /* How to do it */

2011-04-17T19:50:06Z

How to do it

← Older revision		Revision as of 19:50, 17 April 2011
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	#Cut a short 3" piece of wire to join the 30 and 85 pins on the relay to the "main" 12v wire.		#Cut a short 3" piece of wire to join the 30 and 85 pins on the relay to the "main" 12v wire.
	##Put a female blade connector on the end of a short (3-4") piece of wire - connect this to pin 30 on the relay.		##Put a female blade connector on the end of a short (3-4") piece of wire - connect this to pin 30 on the relay.
	##On the other end of the short wire, wind the other ends of this wire into the 12v "main" wire~~, onto this connect another~~ female blade connector - connect this to pin 85 on the relay.		##On the other end of the short wire, wind the other ends of this wire into the 12v "main" wire - attach both wires to the same female blade connector - connect this to pin 85 on the relay.
	#Run 2 lengths of wire for your button.		#Run 2 lengths of wire for your button.
	##Attach a female blade connector and run one wire from pin 86 on your relay to your button.		##Attach a female blade connector and run one wire from pin 86 on your relay to your button.
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	##On the engine bay side of the live and ground wires, attach a female blade connector to each wire.		##On the engine bay side of the live and ground wires, attach a female blade connector to each wire.
	##Check your solenoids connectors - if you need to, replace the connectors with a male blade connectors - this way you can switch the cables round if you connect them up and the solenoid moves the wrong way (which it probably will).		##Check your solenoids connectors - if you need to, replace the connectors with a male blade connectors - this way you can switch the cables round if you connect them up and the solenoid moves the wrong way (which it probably will).
	##Take the ground wire running from the solenoid through the bulkhead ~~into~~ the button ground wire and twist the ends together - attach a male blade connector and connect it to the "main" ground wire.		##Take the ground wire running from the solenoid through the bulkhead to the button ground wire and twist the ends together - attach a both wires to the same male blade connector and connect it to the "main" ground wire.
	#
	#		#

Arisutea: /* How to do it */

2011-04-17T19:47:50Z

How to do it

← Older revision		Revision as of 19:47, 17 April 2011
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	##Run another wire from the button to the your "main" ground wire - do not put a connector on this yet.		##Run another wire from the button to the your "main" ground wire - do not put a connector on this yet.
	#Run a live and ground wire from the relay, through the bulkhead, to where you would like the solenoid to live in the engine bay.		#Run a live and ground wire from the relay, through the bulkhead, to where you would like the solenoid to live in the engine bay.
	##On the engine bay side of ~~this cable~~ attach a female blade connector to each wire.		##On the relay side of the live wire, attach a female blade connector and attach it to pin 87 of the relay.
	##Check your solenoids connectors - if you need to replace the connectors with a male blade ~~connector (~~this way you can switch the cables round if you connect them up and the solenoid moves the wrong way).		##On the engine bay side of the live and ground wires, attach a female blade connector to each wire.
			##Check your solenoids connectors - if you need to, replace the connectors with a male blade connectors - this way you can switch the cables round if you connect them up and the solenoid moves the wrong way (which it probably will).
	##Take the ground wire running from the solenoid through the bulkhead into the button ground wire and twist the ends together - attach a male blade connector and connect it to the "main" ground wire.		##Take the ground wire running from the solenoid through the bulkhead into the button ground wire and twist the ends together - attach a male blade connector and connect it to the "main" ground wire.
	#		#

Arisutea: /* How to do it */

2011-04-17T19:43:01Z

How to do it

← Older revision		Revision as of 19:43, 17 April 2011
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	#Run 2 lengths of wire for your button.		#Run 2 lengths of wire for your button.
	##Attach a female blade connector and run one wire from pin 86 on your relay to your button.		##Attach a female blade connector and run one wire from pin 86 on your relay to your button.
	##Run another wire from the button to the your ~~new~~ ground wire - do not put a connector on this yet.		##Run another wire from the button to the your "main" ground wire - do not put a connector on this yet.
	#Run a live and ground wire from the relay, through the bulkhead, to where you would like the solenoid to live in the engine bay.		#Run a live and ground wire from the relay, through the bulkhead, to where you would like the solenoid to live in the engine bay.
	##On the engine bay side of this cable attach a female blade connector to each wire.		##On the engine bay side of this cable attach a female blade connector to each wire.

Arisutea: /* How to do it */

2011-04-17T19:39:38Z

How to do it

← Older revision		Revision as of 19:39, 17 April 2011
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	##Strip and wind the ends of your new "main" 12v wire together with the car's 12v wire, attach a female connector onto this wire and connect it to the aux power socket. Do the same with the new "main" ground wire.		##Strip and wind the ends of your new "main" 12v wire together with the car's 12v wire, attach a female connector onto this wire and connect it to the aux power socket. Do the same with the new "main" ground wire.
	#Put a female blade connector on the end of your "main" ground wire.		#Put a female blade connector on the end of your "main" ground wire.
	#Put a female blade connector on the end of a short (3-4") piece of wire, ~~and~~ wind the other ends of this wire into the 12v "main" wire, onto this connect another female blade connector.		#Cut a short 3" piece of wire to join the 30 and 85 pins on the relay to the "main" 12v wire.
			##Put a female blade connector on the end of a short (3-4") piece of wire - connect this to pin 30 on the relay.
			##On the other end of the short wire, wind the other ends of this wire into the 12v "main" wire, onto this connect another female blade connector - connect this to pin 85 on the relay.
	#Run 2 lengths of wire for your button.		#Run 2 lengths of wire for your button.
	##~~Run~~ one wire from pin 86 on your relay to your button ~~(with a female connector at the relay end)~~.		##Attach a female blade connector and run one wire from pin 86 on your relay to your button.
	##Run another wire from the button to the your new ground wire.		##Run another wire from the button to the your new ground wire - do not put a connector on this yet.
	#Run a live and ground wire from the relay, through the bulkhead, to where you would like the solenoid to live in the engine bay.		#Run a live and ground wire from the relay, through the bulkhead, to where you would like the solenoid to live in the engine bay.
	##On the engine bay side of this cable attach a female blade connector to each wire.		##On the engine bay side of this cable attach a female blade connector to each wire.
	##Check your solenoids connectors - if you need to replace the connectors with a male blade connector (this way you can switch the cables round if you connect them up and the solenoid moves the wrong way).		##Check your solenoids connectors - if you need to replace the connectors with a male blade connector (this way you can switch the cables round if you connect them up and the solenoid moves the wrong way).
			##Take the ground wire running from the solenoid through the bulkhead into the button ground wire and twist the ends together - attach a male blade connector and connect it to the "main" ground wire.
	#		#
	#		#

Arisutea: /* How to do it */

2011-04-17T19:32:58Z

How to do it

← Older revision		Revision as of 19:32, 17 April 2011
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	##Test fit a couple of cables to make sure they fit through easily enough - it doesn't need to be "tight", but at the same time it doesn't want to be as slack as Kerry Katona!		##Test fit a couple of cables to make sure they fit through easily enough - it doesn't need to be "tight", but at the same time it doesn't want to be as slack as Kerry Katona!
	#Important - If you haven't already done so, disconnect the battery (you might just be able to remove the fuse).		#Important - If you haven't already done so, disconnect the battery (you might just be able to remove the fuse).
	#[Image:Wiring-diagram.jpg] Splice a 12v and a ground "main" wire into the 12v and ground cables going to the auxiliary power socket.		#[[Image:Wiring-diagram.jpg\|frame\|Wiring diagram]] Splice a 12v and a ground "main" wire into the 12v and ground cables going to the auxiliary power socket.
	##Cut through both of the 12v and ground wires - leave enough spare cable on the connector end to allow you to attach a male blade connector (you might need to cut back the plastic tape stuff holding the two wires together - be careful when doing this).		##Cut through both of the 12v and ground wires - leave enough spare cable on the connector end to allow you to attach a male blade connector (you might need to cut back the plastic tape stuff holding the two wires together - be careful when doing this).
	##Strip and attach a couple of male blade connectors onto the bits of wire you left on the connector which connects to the auxiliary power socket.		##Strip and attach a couple of male blade connectors onto the bits of wire you left on the connector which connects to the auxiliary power socket.

Arisutea: /* How to do it */

2011-04-17T19:31:17Z

How to do it

Arisutea: /* How to do it */

2011-04-17T19:18:55Z

How to do it

← Older revision		Revision as of 19:18, 17 April 2011
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	#Run a live and ground wire from the relay, through the bulkhead, to where you would like the solenoid to live in the engine bay.		#Run a live and ground wire from the relay, through the bulkhead, to where you would like the solenoid to live in the engine bay.
	##On the engine bay side of this cable attach a female blade connector to each wire.		##On the engine bay side of this cable attach a female blade connector to each wire.
	##Check your solenoids connectors - if you need to replace the connectors with a male blade connector (this way you can switch the cables round if you connect them up and the solenoid moves the wrong way.		##Check your solenoids connectors - if you need to replace the connectors with a male blade connector (this way you can switch the cables round if you connect them up and the solenoid moves the wrong way).
	#		#
	#		#

Arisutea: /* How to do it */

2011-04-17T18:48:34Z

How to do it

@@ Line 117: / Line 117: @@
 ##Decide approximately where you want your relay to live (against the bulkhead is a good idea), and unwind enough wire to run from this place to the aux power socket wires (plus a bit extra). Do this twice (one 12v, one ground).
 ##Strip and wind the ends of the car 12v wire and the new live cable leading to your relay. On the end of this attach a female spade connector. Repeat this for the ground cable.
 ==Random Questions==

← Older revision		Revision as of 19:31, 17 April 2011
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	##Test fit a couple of cables to make sure they fit through easily enough - it doesn't need to be "tight", but at the same time it doesn't want to be as slack as Kerry Katona!		##Test fit a couple of cables to make sure they fit through easily enough - it doesn't need to be "tight", but at the same time it doesn't want to be as slack as Kerry Katona!
	#Important - If you haven't already done so, disconnect the battery (you might just be able to remove the fuse).		#Important - If you haven't already done so, disconnect the battery (you might just be able to remove the fuse).
	#Splice a 12v and a ground "main" wire into the 12v and ground cables going to the auxiliary power socket.		#[Image:Wiring-diagram.jpg] Splice a 12v and a ground "main" wire into the 12v and ground cables going to the auxiliary power socket.
	##Cut through both of the 12v and ground wires - leave enough spare cable on the connector end to allow you to attach a blade connector (you might need to cut back the plastic tape stuff holding the two wires together - be careful when doing this).		##Cut through both of the 12v and ground wires - leave enough spare cable on the connector end to allow you to attach a male blade connector (you might need to cut back the plastic tape stuff holding the two wires together - be careful when doing this).
	##Strip and attach a couple of male blade connectors onto the bits of wire you left on the connector which connects to the auxiliary power socket.		##Strip and attach a couple of male blade connectors onto the bits of wire you left on the connector which connects to the auxiliary power socket.
	##Decide approximately where you want your relay to live (against the bulkhead is a good idea), and unwind enough wire to run from this place to the aux power socket wires (plus a bit extra). Do this twice (one 12v, one ground).		##Decide approximately where you want your relay to live (against the bulkhead is a good idea), and unwind enough wire to run from this place to the aux power socket wires (plus a bit extra). Do this twice (one 12v, one ground).
	##Strip and wind the ends of the car 12v wire ~~and the new live cable leading to your relay. On the end of this~~ attach a female ~~spade~~ connector. ~~Repeat this for~~ the ground ~~cable~~.		##Strip and wind the ends of your new "main" 12v wire together with the car's 12v wire, attach a female connector onto this wire and connect it to the aux power socket. Do the same with the new "main" ground wire.
	#~~Split/splice~~ a ~~short piece of cable onto~~ the ~~relay~~ end of your ~~new 12v~~ wire~~: You need 2 live connections going into the relay, one onto pin 85 for the coil, the other going to pin 30 for the switch/solenoid~~.		#Put a female blade connector on the end of your "main" ground wire.
	#Put a ~~male or~~ female blade connector on the end of ~~your new ground~~ wire.		#Put a female blade connector on the end of a short (3-4") piece of wire, and wind the other ends of this wire into the 12v "main" wire, onto this connect another female blade connector.
	#Run 2 lengths of wire for your button.		#Run 2 lengths of wire for your button.
	##Run one wire from pin 86 on your relay to your button.		##Run one wire from pin 86 on your relay to your button (with a female connector at the relay end).
	##Run another wire from the button to the your new ground wire.		##Run another wire from the button to the your new ground wire.
	#Run a live and ground wire from the relay, through the bulkhead, to where you would like the solenoid to live in the engine bay.		#Run a live and ground wire from the relay, through the bulkhead, to where you would like the solenoid to live in the engine bay.