Remove the rear clamshell - Revision history

Lithopsian: /* S1 rear clam shell */ four gutter bolts

2019-12-15T21:39:40Z

S1 rear clam shell: four gutter bolts

← Older revision		Revision as of 21:39, 15 December 2019
Line 91:		Line 91:
	Once the roof is out of the way, get behind the seats(or remove them: 6xM8 cap heads and 2xM8 button heads going into the floor, plus 17mm seatbelt bolts) and remove the speaker surrounds sneaky self-tapper behind the rollover bar, M4 pozi pan in the stowage net hook, then just velcro round the edges). You can remove the trim with the speaker attached, there is quite a bit of wire, but remember to detach the spade terminals before throwing it in the corner of the garage. You want to get between 300mm and 450mm of extensions for your ratchet now (or you can reach in with a spanner, preferably with a ratchet because there isn't a lot of room for manoeuvre). There is one 13mm bolt behind(ish) each speaker. If you haven't taken the seats out, get your hand in and reach out to the side of the vehicle (closest to the door but upwards slightly).		Once the roof is out of the way, get behind the seats(or remove them: 6xM8 cap heads and 2xM8 button heads going into the floor, plus 17mm seatbelt bolts) and remove the speaker surrounds sneaky self-tapper behind the rollover bar, M4 pozi pan in the stowage net hook, then just velcro round the edges). You can remove the trim with the speaker attached, there is quite a bit of wire, but remember to detach the spade terminals before throwing it in the corner of the garage. You want to get between 300mm and 450mm of extensions for your ratchet now (or you can reach in with a spanner, preferably with a ratchet because there isn't a lot of room for manoeuvre). There is one 13mm bolt behind(ish) each speaker. If you haven't taken the seats out, get your hand in and reach out to the side of the vehicle (closest to the door but upwards slightly).

	Once that's done, take the engine bay door off the hinge (3xM6 bolts). There are ~~two~~ body coloured or stainless steel bolts in the engine bay gutter closest to the rear window (plus two fixing the boot bulkhead on early cars). Remove these and then take out the carpets in the boot and the foam underneath. You should see a bare fibreglass floor now with two sets of two 13mm bolts nearest the centre, and a row of three bolts on either side of the boot. The four centre most bolts are holding the silencer exhaust hangers (be careful, these may have deteriorated over time and its worth removing the diffuser/undertray to inspect the other side first), so removing at least the silencer makes things easier. The outermost bolts fix the clamshell to the longerons and are simple enough provided the rivnuts don't spin.		Once that's done, take the engine bay door off the hinge (3xM6 bolts). There are four body coloured or stainless steel bolts in the engine bay gutter closest to the rear window (plus two fixing the boot bulkhead on early cars). Remove these and then take out the carpets in the boot and the foam underneath. You should see a bare fibreglass floor now with two sets of two 13mm bolts nearest the centre, and a row of three bolts on either side of the boot. The four centre most bolts are holding the silencer exhaust hangers (be careful, these may have deteriorated over time and its worth removing the diffuser/undertray to inspect the other side first), so removing at least the silencer makes things easier. The outermost bolts fix the clamshell to the longerons and are simple enough provided the rivnuts don't spin.

	Remove the wheel arch liners, fixings vary depending on the model year. I'm not going to lie, you'll probably end up replacing all or most of the fixings. The rawlnuts may be seized beyond recovery, but you can pull back the liner and reach the backs to try and unfasten them. Scrivets can usually be removed with a sensitive approach, but go at them like a bull in a china shop and you'll just spin them and eventually strip the heads. Don't forget the bolt near the top of the damper (and the shear plate bolts on early cars). Unscrew the fuel filler cap and remove the screws holding the retaining ring. On the inside of each door there should be two 8mm Allen bolts that need to be removed. Don't forget the single bolt behind the number plate, if you have an early boot-bag car.		Remove the wheel arch liners, fixings vary depending on the model year. I'm not going to lie, you'll probably end up replacing all or most of the fixings. The rawlnuts may be seized beyond recovery, but you can pull back the liner and reach the backs to try and unfasten them. Scrivets can usually be removed with a sensitive approach, but go at them like a bull in a china shop and you'll just spin them and eventually strip the heads. Don't forget the bolt near the top of the damper (and the shear plate bolts on early cars). Unscrew the fuel filler cap and remove the screws holding the retaining ring. On the inside of each door there should be two 8mm Allen bolts that need to be removed. Don't forget the single bolt behind the number plate, if you have an early boot-bag car.

Lithopsian: /* S1 rear clam shell */ removing speaker trim

2019-12-15T21:39:04Z

S1 rear clam shell: removing speaker trim

← Older revision		Revision as of 21:39, 15 December 2019
Line 89:		Line 89:
	Firstly, you need to jack up the rear of the car and remove the wheels. Secondly take of the soft top. For those who don't know how, you need to undo the two 8mm hex fixings at the rear tips of the soft top's canopy. Inside the cockpit there is a clip on each window beam near the back, pull them down and the canopy can be taken off and then the beams. Either side of the rear window is a black metal clip. These hold down the roll bar cover (body coloured piece). Take care not to drop the glass if it sticks to the cover when you lift it.		Firstly, you need to jack up the rear of the car and remove the wheels. Secondly take of the soft top. For those who don't know how, you need to undo the two 8mm hex fixings at the rear tips of the soft top's canopy. Inside the cockpit there is a clip on each window beam near the back, pull them down and the canopy can be taken off and then the beams. Either side of the rear window is a black metal clip. These hold down the roll bar cover (body coloured piece). Take care not to drop the glass if it sticks to the cover when you lift it.

	Once the roof is out of the way, get behind the seats(or remove them: 6xM8 cap heads and 2xM8 button heads going into the floor, plus 17mm seatbelt bolts) and remove the ~~speakers~~. You want to get between 300mm and 450mm of extensions for your ratchet now. There is one 13mm bolt behind(ish) each speaker. If you haven't taken the seats out, get your hand in and reach out to the side of the vehicle (closest to the door but upwards slightly)~~. Removing the trim gives you access to an M8 bolt on each side~~.		Once the roof is out of the way, get behind the seats(or remove them: 6xM8 cap heads and 2xM8 button heads going into the floor, plus 17mm seatbelt bolts) and remove the speaker surrounds sneaky self-tapper behind the rollover bar, M4 pozi pan in the stowage net hook, then just velcro round the edges). You can remove the trim with the speaker attached, there is quite a bit of wire, but remember to detach the spade terminals before throwing it in the corner of the garage. You want to get between 300mm and 450mm of extensions for your ratchet now (or you can reach in with a spanner, preferably with a ratchet because there isn't a lot of room for manoeuvre). There is one 13mm bolt behind(ish) each speaker. If you haven't taken the seats out, get your hand in and reach out to the side of the vehicle (closest to the door but upwards slightly).

	Once that's done, take the engine bay door off the hinge (3xM6 bolts). There are two body coloured or stainless steel bolts in the engine bay gutter closest to the rear window (plus two fixing the boot bulkhead on early cars). Remove these and then take out the carpets in the boot and the foam underneath. You should see a bare fibreglass floor now with two sets of two 13mm bolts nearest the centre, and a row of three bolts on either side of the boot. The four centre most bolts are holding the silencer exhaust hangers (be careful, these may have deteriorated over time and its worth removing the diffuser/undertray to inspect the other side first), so removing at least the silencer makes things easier. The outermost bolts fix the clamshell to the longerons and are simple enough provided the rivnuts don't spin.		Once that's done, take the engine bay door off the hinge (3xM6 bolts). There are two body coloured or stainless steel bolts in the engine bay gutter closest to the rear window (plus two fixing the boot bulkhead on early cars). Remove these and then take out the carpets in the boot and the foam underneath. You should see a bare fibreglass floor now with two sets of two 13mm bolts nearest the centre, and a row of three bolts on either side of the boot. The four centre most bolts are holding the silencer exhaust hangers (be careful, these may have deteriorated over time and its worth removing the diffuser/undertray to inspect the other side first), so removing at least the silencer makes things easier. The outermost bolts fix the clamshell to the longerons and are simple enough provided the rivnuts don't spin.

Lithopsian: /* S1 rear clam shell */ number plate bolt only on early cars

2019-11-12T18:04:27Z

S1 rear clam shell: number plate bolt only on early cars

← Older revision		Revision as of 18:04, 12 November 2019
Line 93:		Line 93:
	Once that's done, take the engine bay door off the hinge (3xM6 bolts). There are two body coloured or stainless steel bolts in the engine bay gutter closest to the rear window (plus two fixing the boot bulkhead on early cars). Remove these and then take out the carpets in the boot and the foam underneath. You should see a bare fibreglass floor now with two sets of two 13mm bolts nearest the centre, and a row of three bolts on either side of the boot. The four centre most bolts are holding the silencer exhaust hangers (be careful, these may have deteriorated over time and its worth removing the diffuser/undertray to inspect the other side first), so removing at least the silencer makes things easier. The outermost bolts fix the clamshell to the longerons and are simple enough provided the rivnuts don't spin.		Once that's done, take the engine bay door off the hinge (3xM6 bolts). There are two body coloured or stainless steel bolts in the engine bay gutter closest to the rear window (plus two fixing the boot bulkhead on early cars). Remove these and then take out the carpets in the boot and the foam underneath. You should see a bare fibreglass floor now with two sets of two 13mm bolts nearest the centre, and a row of three bolts on either side of the boot. The four centre most bolts are holding the silencer exhaust hangers (be careful, these may have deteriorated over time and its worth removing the diffuser/undertray to inspect the other side first), so removing at least the silencer makes things easier. The outermost bolts fix the clamshell to the longerons and are simple enough provided the rivnuts don't spin.

	Remove the wheel arch liners, fixings vary depending on the model year. I'm not going to lie, you'll probably end up replacing all or most of the fixings. The rawlnuts may be seized beyond recovery, but you can pull back the liner and reach the backs to try and unfasten them. Scrivets can usually be removed with a sensitive approach, but go at them like a bull in a china shop and you'll just spin them and eventually strip the heads. Don't forget the bolt near the top of the damper (and the shear plate bolts on early cars). Unscrew the fuel filler cap and remove the screws holding the retaining ring. On the inside of each door there should be two 8mm Allen bolts that need to be removed. Don't forget the single bolt behind the number plate.		Remove the wheel arch liners, fixings vary depending on the model year. I'm not going to lie, you'll probably end up replacing all or most of the fixings. The rawlnuts may be seized beyond recovery, but you can pull back the liner and reach the backs to try and unfasten them. Scrivets can usually be removed with a sensitive approach, but go at them like a bull in a china shop and you'll just spin them and eventually strip the heads. Don't forget the bolt near the top of the damper (and the shear plate bolts on early cars). Unscrew the fuel filler cap and remove the screws holding the retaining ring. On the inside of each door there should be two 8mm Allen bolts that need to be removed. Don't forget the single bolt behind the number plate, if you have an early boot-bag car.

	Before removing the clam, disconnect the electrics going into the boot, they should be going through the offside rear of the boot, and unscrew the ECU at the front nearside. Detach the boot release cable from the catch and feed it back through the clam.		Before removing the clam, disconnect the electrics going into the boot, they should be going through the offside rear of the boot, and unscrew the ECU at the front nearside. Detach the boot release cable from the catch and feed it back through the clam.

Lithopsian: /* Top tips */ drain hose?

2019-11-01T21:24:19Z

Top tips: drain hose?

← Older revision		Revision as of 21:24, 1 November 2019
Line 80:		Line 80:
	*Find somebody that can write in English, or at least sentences, to make a how-to guide. This was worse than useless because first of all, IT'S FOR AN S2!!! Secondly, I spent more time translating this guide than actually finding anything that I didn't already know.		*Find somebody that can write in English, or at least sentences, to make a how-to guide. This was worse than useless because first of all, IT'S FOR AN S2!!! Secondly, I spent more time translating this guide than actually finding anything that I didn't already know.

	*Not all the cars have the same fixings (early/late S1s for example) so there may be different / missing steps not mentioned here or in the service manual. Likewise, the service manual doesn't mention disconnecting the boot release cable from the clam, pulling free the co-located drain hose or that you have to prize the numberplate off to get to the rear centre attachment.		*Not all the cars have the same fixings (early/late S1s for example) so there may be different / missing steps not mentioned here or in the service manual. Likewise, the service manual doesn't mention disconnecting the boot release cable from the clam, pulling free the co-located drain hose (because it doesn't need to be removed?) or that you have to prize the numberplate off to get to the rear centre attachment.

	* Worth removing the edge finisher (rubber trim) around the air intake grills, they may be glued on and are attached to the rear clam and the sill panels. If they are glued and you try to remove the clam they will probably tear (although if they are glued you will probably have to replace anyway, part no A111U6034V).		* Worth removing the edge finisher (rubber trim) around the air intake grills, they may be glued on and are attached to the rear clam and the sill panels. If they are glued and you try to remove the clam they will probably tear (although if they are glued you will probably have to replace anyway, part no A111U6034V).

	* Replace the standard zinc bolts & washers with quality Stainless Steel ones. Speedy Fasteners [http://www.speedyfasteners.com Speedy Fasteners Web Site] or [http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Speedy-Fasteners Speedy Fasteners eBay Site] sell S1 and S2 clamshell kits.		* Replace the standard zinc bolts & washers with quality Stainless Steel ones. Speedy Fasteners [http://www.speedyfasteners.com Speedy Fasteners Web Site] or [http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Speedy-Fasteners Speedy Fasteners eBay Site] sell S1 and S2 clamshell kits.


	== S1 rear clam shell ==		== S1 rear clam shell ==

Lithopsian: /* S1 rear clam shell */ boot release

2019-11-01T21:22:56Z

S1 rear clam shell: boot release

← Older revision		Revision as of 21:22, 1 November 2019
Line 96:		Line 96:
	Remove the wheel arch liners, fixings vary depending on the model year. I'm not going to lie, you'll probably end up replacing all or most of the fixings. The rawlnuts may be seized beyond recovery, but you can pull back the liner and reach the backs to try and unfasten them. Scrivets can usually be removed with a sensitive approach, but go at them like a bull in a china shop and you'll just spin them and eventually strip the heads. Don't forget the bolt near the top of the damper (and the shear plate bolts on early cars). Unscrew the fuel filler cap and remove the screws holding the retaining ring. On the inside of each door there should be two 8mm Allen bolts that need to be removed. Don't forget the single bolt behind the number plate.		Remove the wheel arch liners, fixings vary depending on the model year. I'm not going to lie, you'll probably end up replacing all or most of the fixings. The rawlnuts may be seized beyond recovery, but you can pull back the liner and reach the backs to try and unfasten them. Scrivets can usually be removed with a sensitive approach, but go at them like a bull in a china shop and you'll just spin them and eventually strip the heads. Don't forget the bolt near the top of the damper (and the shear plate bolts on early cars). Unscrew the fuel filler cap and remove the screws holding the retaining ring. On the inside of each door there should be two 8mm Allen bolts that need to be removed. Don't forget the single bolt behind the number plate.

	Before removing the clam, disconnect the electrics going into the boot, they should be going through the offside rear of the boot, and unscrew the ECU at the front nearside.		Before removing the clam, disconnect the electrics going into the boot, they should be going through the offside rear of the boot, and unscrew the ECU at the front nearside. Detach the boot release cable from the catch and feed it back through the clam.

	[[Category:Body]]		[[Category:Body]]

Lithopsian: /* S1 rear clam shell */ tweak description

2019-11-01T21:20:01Z

S1 rear clam shell: tweak description

← Older revision		Revision as of 21:20, 1 November 2019
Line 88:		Line 88:

	== S1 rear clam shell ==		== S1 rear clam shell ==
	Firstly, you need to jack up the rear of the car and remove the wheels. Secondly take of the soft top. For those who don't know how, you need to undo the two 8mm hex fixings at the rear tips of the soft top's canopy. Inside the cockpit there is a clip on each window beam near the back, pull them down and the canopy can be taken off and then the beams. Either side of the rear window is a black metal clip. These hold down the roll bar ~~shroud~~(body coloured piece).		Firstly, you need to jack up the rear of the car and remove the wheels. Secondly take of the soft top. For those who don't know how, you need to undo the two 8mm hex fixings at the rear tips of the soft top's canopy. Inside the cockpit there is a clip on each window beam near the back, pull them down and the canopy can be taken off and then the beams. Either side of the rear window is a black metal clip. These hold down the roll bar cover (body coloured piece). Take care not to drop the glass if it sticks to the cover when you lift it.

	Once the roof is out of the way, get behind the seats(or remove them: 6xM8 cap heads and 2xM8 button heads going into the floor, plus 17mm seatbelt bolts) and remove the speakers. You want to get between 300mm and 450mm of extensions for your ratchet now. There is one 13mm bolt behind(ish) each speaker. If you haven't taken the seats out, get your hand in and reach out to the side of the vehicle (closest to the door but upwards slightly).		Once the roof is out of the way, get behind the seats(or remove them: 6xM8 cap heads and 2xM8 button heads going into the floor, plus 17mm seatbelt bolts) and remove the speakers. You want to get between 300mm and 450mm of extensions for your ratchet now. There is one 13mm bolt behind(ish) each speaker. If you haven't taken the seats out, get your hand in and reach out to the side of the vehicle (closest to the door but upwards slightly). Removing the trim gives you access to an M8 bolt on each side.

	Once that's done, take the engine bay door off the hinge (3xM6 bolts). There are ~~four~~ body coloured or stainless steel bolts in the engine bay ~~sill~~ closest to the rear window. Remove these and then take out the carpets in the boot and the foam underneath. You should see a bare fibreglass floor now with two sets of two 13mm bolts nearest the centre, and a row of three bolts on either side of the boot. The four centre most bolts are holding exhaust hangers (be careful, these may have deteriorated over time and its worth removing the diffuser/undertray to inspect the other side first). The outermost bolts fix the clamshell to the longerons and are simple enough provided the rivnuts don't spin.		Once that's done, take the engine bay door off the hinge (3xM6 bolts). There are two body coloured or stainless steel bolts in the engine bay gutter closest to the rear window (plus two fixing the boot bulkhead on early cars). Remove these and then take out the carpets in the boot and the foam underneath. You should see a bare fibreglass floor now with two sets of two 13mm bolts nearest the centre, and a row of three bolts on either side of the boot. The four centre most bolts are holding the silencer exhaust hangers (be careful, these may have deteriorated over time and its worth removing the diffuser/undertray to inspect the other side first), so removing at least the silencer makes things easier. The outermost bolts fix the clamshell to the longerons and are simple enough provided the rivnuts don't spin.

	Remove the ~~Wheel~~ arch liners. I'm not going to lie, you'll probably end up replacing all or most of the fixings. Unscrew the fuel filler cap ~~from~~ the ~~clamshell~~. On the inside of each door ~~There~~ should be two 8mm Allen bolts that need to be removed.		Remove the wheel arch liners, fixings vary depending on the model year. I'm not going to lie, you'll probably end up replacing all or most of the fixings. The rawlnuts may be seized beyond recovery, but you can pull back the liner and reach the backs to try and unfasten them. Scrivets can usually be removed with a sensitive approach, but go at them like a bull in a china shop and you'll just spin them and eventually strip the heads. Don't forget the bolt near the top of the damper (and the shear plate bolts on early cars). Unscrew the fuel filler cap and remove the screws holding the retaining ring. On the inside of each door there should be two 8mm Allen bolts that need to be removed. Don't forget the single bolt behind the number plate.

			Before removing the clam, disconnect the electrics going into the boot, they should be going through the offside rear of the boot, and unscrew the ECU at the front nearside.

	~~Before removing the clam, disconnect the electrics going into the boot, they should be going through the offside rear of the boot, and unscrew the ECU at the front nearside.~~
	[[Category:Body]]		[[Category:Body]]
	[[Category:DIY]]		[[Category:DIY]]

Lithopsian: /* S1 rear clam shell */ bolts go into the longerons

2019-11-01T21:06:40Z

S1 rear clam shell: bolts go into the longerons

← Older revision		Revision as of 21:06, 1 November 2019
Line 92:		Line 92:
	Once the roof is out of the way, get behind the seats(or remove them: 6xM8 cap heads and 2xM8 button heads going into the floor, plus 17mm seatbelt bolts) and remove the speakers. You want to get between 300mm and 450mm of extensions for your ratchet now. There is one 13mm bolt behind(ish) each speaker. If you haven't taken the seats out, get your hand in and reach out to the side of the vehicle (closest to the door but upwards slightly).		Once the roof is out of the way, get behind the seats(or remove them: 6xM8 cap heads and 2xM8 button heads going into the floor, plus 17mm seatbelt bolts) and remove the speakers. You want to get between 300mm and 450mm of extensions for your ratchet now. There is one 13mm bolt behind(ish) each speaker. If you haven't taken the seats out, get your hand in and reach out to the side of the vehicle (closest to the door but upwards slightly).

	Once that's done, take the engine bay door off the hinge (3xM6 bolts). There are four body coloured or stainless steel bolts in the engine bay sill closest to the rear window. Remove these and then take out the carpets in the boot and the foam underneath. You should see a bare fibreglass floor now with two sets of two 13mm bolts nearest the centre, and a row of three bolts on either side of the boot. The four centre most bolts are holding exhaust hangers (be careful, these may have deteriorated over time and its worth removing the diffuser/undertray to inspect the other side first). The outermost bolts fix the clamshell to the ~~chassis rails/rear subframe(these~~ are ~~easy~~ enough).		Once that's done, take the engine bay door off the hinge (3xM6 bolts). There are four body coloured or stainless steel bolts in the engine bay sill closest to the rear window. Remove these and then take out the carpets in the boot and the foam underneath. You should see a bare fibreglass floor now with two sets of two 13mm bolts nearest the centre, and a row of three bolts on either side of the boot. The four centre most bolts are holding exhaust hangers (be careful, these may have deteriorated over time and its worth removing the diffuser/undertray to inspect the other side first). The outermost bolts fix the clamshell to the longerons and are simple enough provided the rivnuts don't spin.

	Remove the Wheel arch liners. I'm not going to lie, you'll probably end up replacing all or most of the fixings. Unscrew the fuel filler cap from the clamshell. On the inside of each door There should be two 8mm Allen bolts that need to be removed.		Remove the Wheel arch liners. I'm not going to lie, you'll probably end up replacing all or most of the fixings. Unscrew the fuel filler cap from the clamshell. On the inside of each door There should be two 8mm Allen bolts that need to be removed.

Lithopsian: /* S1 rear clam shell */ stainless clam bolts used on some cars

2019-11-01T21:05:59Z

S1 rear clam shell: stainless clam bolts used on some cars

← Older revision		Revision as of 21:05, 1 November 2019
Line 92:		Line 92:
	Once the roof is out of the way, get behind the seats(or remove them: 6xM8 cap heads and 2xM8 button heads going into the floor, plus 17mm seatbelt bolts) and remove the speakers. You want to get between 300mm and 450mm of extensions for your ratchet now. There is one 13mm bolt behind(ish) each speaker. If you haven't taken the seats out, get your hand in and reach out to the side of the vehicle (closest to the door but upwards slightly).		Once the roof is out of the way, get behind the seats(or remove them: 6xM8 cap heads and 2xM8 button heads going into the floor, plus 17mm seatbelt bolts) and remove the speakers. You want to get between 300mm and 450mm of extensions for your ratchet now. There is one 13mm bolt behind(ish) each speaker. If you haven't taken the seats out, get your hand in and reach out to the side of the vehicle (closest to the door but upwards slightly).

	Once that's done, take the engine bay door off the hinge (3xM6 bolts). There are four body coloured bolts in the engine bay sill closest to the rear window. Remove these and then take out the carpets in the boot and the foam underneath. You should see a bare fibreglass floor now with two sets of two 13mm bolts nearest the centre~~. And~~ a row of three bolts on either side of the boot. The four centre most bolts are holding exhaust hangers (be careful, these may have deteriorated over time and its worth removing the diffuser/undertray to inspect the other side first). The outermost bolts fix the clamshell to the chassis rails/rear subframe(these are easy enough).		Once that's done, take the engine bay door off the hinge (3xM6 bolts). There are four body coloured or stainless steel bolts in the engine bay sill closest to the rear window. Remove these and then take out the carpets in the boot and the foam underneath. You should see a bare fibreglass floor now with two sets of two 13mm bolts nearest the centre, and a row of three bolts on either side of the boot. The four centre most bolts are holding exhaust hangers (be careful, these may have deteriorated over time and its worth removing the diffuser/undertray to inspect the other side first). The outermost bolts fix the clamshell to the chassis rails/rear subframe(these are easy enough).

	Remove the Wheel arch liners. I'm not going to lie, you'll probably end up replacing all or most of the fixings. Unscrew the fuel filler cap from the clamshell. On the inside of each door There should be two 8mm Allen bolts that need to be removed.		Remove the Wheel arch liners. I'm not going to lie, you'll probably end up replacing all or most of the fixings. Unscrew the fuel filler cap from the clamshell. On the inside of each door There should be two 8mm Allen bolts that need to be removed.

Lithopsian: /* S1 rear clam shell */ three hinge bolts

2019-11-01T21:05:06Z

S1 rear clam shell: three hinge bolts

← Older revision		Revision as of 21:05, 1 November 2019
Line 92:		Line 92:
	Once the roof is out of the way, get behind the seats(or remove them: 6xM8 cap heads and 2xM8 button heads going into the floor, plus 17mm seatbelt bolts) and remove the speakers. You want to get between 300mm and 450mm of extensions for your ratchet now. There is one 13mm bolt behind(ish) each speaker. If you haven't taken the seats out, get your hand in and reach out to the side of the vehicle (closest to the door but upwards slightly).		Once the roof is out of the way, get behind the seats(or remove them: 6xM8 cap heads and 2xM8 button heads going into the floor, plus 17mm seatbelt bolts) and remove the speakers. You want to get between 300mm and 450mm of extensions for your ratchet now. There is one 13mm bolt behind(ish) each speaker. If you haven't taken the seats out, get your hand in and reach out to the side of the vehicle (closest to the door but upwards slightly).

	Once that's done, take the engine bay door off the hinge (~~2x10mm or 13mm~~ bolts). There are four body coloured bolts in the engine bay sill closest to the rear window. Remove these and then take out the carpets in the boot and the foam underneath. You should see a bare fibreglass floor now with two sets of two 13mm bolts nearest the centre. And a row of three bolts on either side of the boot. The four centre most bolts are holding exhaust hangers (be careful, these may have deteriorated over time and its worth removing the diffuser/undertray to inspect the other side first). The outermost bolts fix the clamshell to the chassis rails/rear subframe(these are easy enough).		Once that's done, take the engine bay door off the hinge (3xM6 bolts). There are four body coloured bolts in the engine bay sill closest to the rear window. Remove these and then take out the carpets in the boot and the foam underneath. You should see a bare fibreglass floor now with two sets of two 13mm bolts nearest the centre. And a row of three bolts on either side of the boot. The four centre most bolts are holding exhaust hangers (be careful, these may have deteriorated over time and its worth removing the diffuser/undertray to inspect the other side first). The outermost bolts fix the clamshell to the chassis rails/rear subframe(these are easy enough).

	Remove the Wheel arch liners. I'm not going to lie, you'll probably end up replacing all or most of the fixings. Unscrew the fuel filler cap from the clamshell. On the inside of each door There should be two 8mm Allen bolts that need to be removed.		Remove the Wheel arch liners. I'm not going to lie, you'll probably end up replacing all or most of the fixings. Unscrew the fuel filler cap from the clamshell. On the inside of each door There should be two 8mm Allen bolts that need to be removed.

Lithopsian: /* S1 rear clam shell */ description of seat runner bolts appears to be non-standard

2019-11-01T21:03:21Z

S1 rear clam shell: description of seat runner bolts appears to be non-standard

← Older revision		Revision as of 21:03, 1 November 2019
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	Firstly, you need to jack up the rear of the car and remove the wheels. Secondly take of the soft top. For those who don't know how, you need to undo the two 8mm hex fixings at the rear tips of the soft top's canopy. Inside the cockpit there is a clip on each window beam near the back, pull them down and the canopy can be taken off and then the beams. Either side of the rear window is a black metal clip. These hold down the roll bar shroud(body coloured piece).		Firstly, you need to jack up the rear of the car and remove the wheels. Secondly take of the soft top. For those who don't know how, you need to undo the two 8mm hex fixings at the rear tips of the soft top's canopy. Inside the cockpit there is a clip on each window beam near the back, pull them down and the canopy can be taken off and then the beams. Either side of the rear window is a black metal clip. These hold down the roll bar shroud(body coloured piece).

	Once the roof is out of the way, get behind the seats(or remove them: ~~6x8mm hex bolts, 1x10mm bolt~~ and ~~1x6mm hex bolt~~ going into the floor. 17mm seatbelt ~~bolt~~) and remove the speakers. You want to get between 300mm and 450mm of extensions for your ratchet now. There is one 13mm bolt behind(ish) each speaker. If you haven't taken the seats out, get your hand in and reach out to the side of the vehicle (closest to the door but upwards slightly).		Once the roof is out of the way, get behind the seats(or remove them: 6xM8 cap heads and 2xM8 button heads going into the floor, plus 17mm seatbelt bolts) and remove the speakers. You want to get between 300mm and 450mm of extensions for your ratchet now. There is one 13mm bolt behind(ish) each speaker. If you haven't taken the seats out, get your hand in and reach out to the side of the vehicle (closest to the door but upwards slightly).

	Once that's done, take the engine bay door off the hinge (2x10mm or 13mm bolts). There are four body coloured bolts in the engine bay sill closest to the rear window. Remove these and then take out the carpets in the boot and the foam underneath. You should see a bare fibreglass floor now with two sets of two 13mm bolts nearest the centre. And a row of three bolts on either side of the boot. The four centre most bolts are holding exhaust hangers (be careful, these may have deteriorated over time and its worth removing the diffuser/undertray to inspect the other side first). The outermost bolts fix the clamshell to the chassis rails/rear subframe(these are easy enough).		Once that's done, take the engine bay door off the hinge (2x10mm or 13mm bolts). There are four body coloured bolts in the engine bay sill closest to the rear window. Remove these and then take out the carpets in the boot and the foam underneath. You should see a bare fibreglass floor now with two sets of two 13mm bolts nearest the centre. And a row of three bolts on either side of the boot. The four centre most bolts are holding exhaust hangers (be careful, these may have deteriorated over time and its worth removing the diffuser/undertray to inspect the other side first). The outermost bolts fix the clamshell to the chassis rails/rear subframe(these are easy enough).