Replace the steering rack - Revision history

Lithopsian: fix some sizes

2026-01-09T15:37:18Z

fix some sizes

← Older revision		Revision as of 15:37, 9 January 2026
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	{{Infobox Timetools		{{Infobox Timetools
	\|time = 1 hour to remove rack		\|time = 1 hour to remove rack
	\|tools = 17mm deep socket / 17 mm spanner to release track rod end, 13mm socket, 17mm socket, ratchet, numerous extension bars, 13mm spanner, 32mm spanner, 36mm spanner, 5.5mm allenkey, chisel and hammer (to remove rivnut), drill, 2.5mm and 3mm drill bits, vice		\|tools = 17mm deep socket / 17 mm spanner to release track rod end, 13mm socket, 17mm socket, ratchet, numerous extension bars, 13mm spanner, 32mm spanner (actually 1.25"), 36mm spanner, 5.5mm allenkey, chisel and hammer (to remove rivnut), drill, 2.5mm and 3mm drill bits, vice
	}}		}}

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	I made the decision to strip down the rack and re-lube it.		I made the decision to strip down the rack and re-lube it.

	First step in doing this is to remove the pinion. To do this, first undo the Rack Bar Thrust Pad bolt locking nut using a 36mm spanner, then back out the thrust pad bolt using a 5mm allen key. Then remove the circlip that holds the pinion assembly in. You can then gently tap out the pinion, for example by mounting the pinion in a vice and gently tapping the housing with a rubber mallet. It doesn't need very much force at all. The pinion will come out with a bearing still attached. This will need to be pressed off if you want to replace it.		First step in doing this is to remove the pinion. To do this, first undo the Rack Bar Thrust Pad bolt locking nut using a 36mm spanner, then back out the thrust pad bolt using a 5.5mm allen key. Then remove the circlip that holds the pinion assembly in. You can then gently tap out the pinion, for example by mounting the pinion in a vice and gently tapping the housing with a rubber mallet. It doesn't need very much force at all. The pinion will come out with a bearing still attached. This will need to be pressed off if you want to replace it.

	Carefully withdraw the rack from the end of the rack body. Finally you can push out the second bearing and the alloy blanking plate. Finger pressure is enough.		Carefully withdraw the rack from the end of the rack body. Finally you can push out the second bearing and the alloy blanking plate. Finger pressure is enough.

Ta264: Thumbnail exploded diagram

2024-09-21T21:07:57Z

Thumbnail exploded diagram

← Older revision		Revision as of 21:07, 21 September 2024
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	==Reconditioning==		==Reconditioning==
	[[File:Elise Steering rack exploded.jpg]]		[[File:Elise Steering rack exploded.jpg\|thumb\|Exploded diagram for rack with plastic bushes]]
	The rack is made by [http://www.titan.uk.net Titan Motorsport], and they will sell all parts to the public on the condition of a £25 minimum order value. And to be honest, they are very helpful too!		The rack is made by [http://www.titan.uk.net Titan Motorsport], and they will sell all parts to the public on the condition of a £25 minimum order value. And to be honest, they are very helpful too!

Ta264 at 20:48, 16 September 2024

2024-09-16T20:48:36Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 20:48, 16 September 2024
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	==Reconditioning==		==Reconditioning==
			[[File:Elise Steering rack exploded.jpg]]
	The rack is made by [http://www.titan.uk.net Titan Motorsport], and they will sell all parts to the public on the condition of a £25 minimum order value. And to be honest, they are very helpful too!		The rack is made by [http://www.titan.uk.net Titan Motorsport], and they will sell all parts to the public on the condition of a £25 minimum order value. And to be honest, they are very helpful too!

Ta264 at 20:46, 16 September 2024

2024-09-16T20:46:30Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 20:46, 16 September 2024
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	I made the decision to strip down the rack and re-lube it.		I made the decision to strip down the rack and re-lube it.

	First step in doing this is to remove the pinion. To do this, first undo the Rack Bar Thrust Pad bolt locking nut using a 36mm spanner, then back out the thrust pad bolt using a 5mm allen key. Then remove the circlip that holds the pinion assembly in, ~~and then use your~~ vice and ~~suitable sockets~~ to ~~press~~ it ~~out~~ of the rack body.		First step in doing this is to remove the pinion. To do this, first undo the Rack Bar Thrust Pad bolt locking nut using a 36mm spanner, then back out the thrust pad bolt using a 5mm allen key. Then remove the circlip that holds the pinion assembly in. You can then gently tap out the pinion, for example by mounting the pinion in a vice and gently tapping the housing with a rubber mallet. It doesn't need very much force at all. The pinion will come out with a bearing still attached. This will need to be pressed off if you want to replace it.

			Carefully withdraw the rack from the end of the rack body. Finally you can push out the second bearing and the alloy blanking plate. Finger pressure is enough.

	You can then carefully withdraw the rack from the end of the rack body.		You can then carefully withdraw the rack from the end of the rack body.

Ta264 at 20:44, 16 September 2024

2024-09-16T20:44:55Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 20:44, 16 September 2024
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	You will need to source grease to re-build your rack. The "rocol MTS1000" is now know as "rocol Sapphire hi-pressure bearing grease" and the "scheerol mpt2 grease" is actually called "spheerol mp2". I sourced this from RS but there are other places that sell them. Note 400g is a lot but that was all they had at the time I ordered.		You will need to source grease to re-build your rack. The "rocol MTS1000" is now know as "rocol Sapphire hi-pressure bearing grease" and the "scheerol mpt2 grease" is actually called "spheerol mp2". [A recent thread reports Titan use MTS1000 which is slightly different from the Sapphire product and still available. Spheerol MP2 has been replaced by Spheerol EPL2.] I sourced this from RS but there are other places that sell them. Note 400g is a lot but that was all they had at the time I ordered.
	RS Stock No. Qty Unit Price Goods Value Description		RS Stock No. Qty Unit Price Goods Value Description
	198-3136 1 £2.82 £2.82 Spheerol MP2 bearing grease,400gm		198-3136 1 £2.82 £2.82 Spheerol MP2 bearing grease,400gm

Silver dream racer: /* Reconditioning */

2020-09-19T08:29:57Z

Reconditioning

← Older revision		Revision as of 08:29, 19 September 2020
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	Upon reassembly the Rack Bar Thrust Pad should be adjusted to give a preload that allows a horizontaly mounted rack to be pulled along its entire length by a force of 50 - 70 N.		Upon reassembly the Rack Bar Thrust Pad should be adjusted to give a preload that allows a horizontaly mounted rack to be pulled along its entire length by a force of 50 - 70 N.

			Here you find some pictures of a dismantled rack: http://silverdreamracer.de/steeringrack/index.html

	==Re-fitting==		==Re-fitting==

Steve M: /* Reconditioning */

2018-04-16T11:51:32Z

Reconditioning

← Older revision		Revision as of 11:51, 16 April 2018
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	[From Titan Motorsport, March 2007: A1161611200A3 - £3.35EA - Nylon shoes, A1161610900A3 - 52p - Spring, A1161916700A3 - 28p - Locking Pin. Note: There is a minimum charge fee of £25]		[From Titan Motorsport, March 2007: A1161611200A3 - £3.35EA - Nylon shoes, A1161610900A3 - 52p - Spring, A1161916700A3 - 28p - Locking Pin. Note: There is a minimum charge fee of £25]

	~~[http://www.manser42.freeserve.co.uk/Steering%20rack%20parts.jpg Steering Rack overhaul common parts]~~

	This seems to be the most common cause of play in the rack.		This seems to be the most common cause of play in the rack.


	~~[http://www.manser42.freeserve.co.uk/Elise%20Steering%20rack.pdf Steering Rack exploded view courtesy of Titan Motorsport]~~

Andy R: /* Re-fitting */

2017-01-15T05:27:31Z

Re-fitting

← Older revision		Revision as of 05:27, 15 January 2017
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	==Re-fitting==		==Re-fitting==

	If you slacken both the upper and lower steering column intermediate shaft universal joint cotter bolts, you can get sufficient axial play to ease re-assembly of the bottom joint onto the rack spline with the rack bolted in place. Once loosened, the upper joint has an amount axial slack on the intermediate shaft to allow for any installation tolerance		If you slacken both the upper and lower steering column intermediate shaft universal joint cotter bolts, you can get sufficient axial play to ease re-assembly of the bottom joint onto the rack spline with the rack already bolted in place. Once loosened, the upper joint has an amount of axial slack on the intermediate shaft to allow for any installation tolerance

	Note: If, for whatever reason, you remove the bottom joint from the end of the intermediate shaft, take care when reassembling that the orientation of the joint is correct to the shaft. The cotter bolt clearance is not a complete revolution in the manner of the pinion spline, so orientation is critical to getting the bolt inserted. Hard to spot when operating by feel down in the footwell!		Note: If, for whatever reason, you remove the bottom joint from the end of the intermediate shaft, take care when reassembling that the orientation of the joint is correct to the shaft. The cotter bolt clearance is not a complete revolution in the manner of the pinion spline, so orientation is critical to getting the bolt inserted. Hard to spot when operating by feel down in the footwell!

Andy R at 05:26, 15 January 2017

2017-01-15T05:26:29Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 05:26, 15 January 2017
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	Upon reassembly the Rack Bar Thrust Pad should be adjusted to give a preload that allows a horizontaly mounted rack to be pulled along its entire length by a force of 50 - 70 N.		Upon reassembly the Rack Bar Thrust Pad should be adjusted to give a preload that allows a horizontaly mounted rack to be pulled along its entire length by a force of 50 - 70 N.

			==Re-fitting==

			If you slacken both the upper and lower steering column intermediate shaft universal joint cotter bolts, you can get sufficient axial play to ease re-assembly of the bottom joint onto the rack spline with the rack bolted in place. Once loosened, the upper joint has an amount axial slack on the intermediate shaft to allow for any installation tolerance

			Note: If, for whatever reason, you remove the bottom joint from the end of the intermediate shaft, take care when reassembling that the orientation of the joint is correct to the shaft. The cotter bolt clearance is not a complete revolution in the manner of the pinion spline, so orientation is critical to getting the bolt inserted. Hard to spot when operating by feel down in the footwell!

	[[Category:DIY]]		[[Category:DIY]]
	[[Category:Lotus Elise]]		[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
	[[Category:S1]]		[[Category:S1]]
	[[Category:S2]]		[[Category:S2]]

JanE: /* Reconditioning */

2016-02-01T23:17:58Z

Reconditioning

← Older revision		Revision as of 23:17, 1 February 2016
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	Repeat for the other track rod.		Repeat for the other track rod.

	Upon reassembly the two joints should be ~~tightned~~ to a point where a load of 3 to 4 Kg, applied 152mm down the track control arm from the centre of the ball in the joint (ie right near the end), is required to move it. Lock at this point, re-drill, and pin. A centre punch on the end of the locking pin will spread it slightly, securing it.		Before reassembly (using new sockets) you need to hone the new sockets to the ball surfaces using a light grinding compound. If this is not done the required load setting will be lost within a few hundred miles.

			Upon reassembly the two joints should be tightened to a point where a load of 3 to 4 Kg, applied 152mm down the track control arm from the centre of the ball in the joint (ie right near the end), is required to move it. Lock at this point, re-drill, and pin. A centre punch on the end of the locking pin will spread it slightly, securing it.

	At this point, I'd noticed that my rack preload seemed far to loose, in that I could turn the pinion shaft with just my finger and thumb, and that when I did this the rack, to my mind, sounded "noisy". There was also one point in the travel where it went "tight".		At this point, I'd noticed that my rack preload seemed far to loose, in that I could turn the pinion shaft with just my finger and thumb, and that when I did this the rack, to my mind, sounded "noisy". There was also one point in the travel where it went "tight".