S2 Toelink Install - Revision history

Iana at 04:13, 10 October 2021

2021-10-10T04:13:13Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 04:13, 10 October 2021
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	[[Image:S2_Inboard_Toelink.jpg]]		[[Image:S2_Inboard_Toelink.jpg]]

			Correct torque is 45NM not 45 Lb/ft. 45Nm is 33Lb/ft.

cocjh1 at 22:39, 29 June 2009

2009-06-29T22:39:31Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 22:39, 29 June 2009
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			[[Image:Ep toelink kit.jpg\|thumb\|left\|Eliseparts toelink kit]]
	Since the S2 steel hub uniball toe link kit installation instructions are not straightforward I'll share my findings (hbaumhardt) for posterity;		Since the S2 steel hub uniball toe link kit installation instructions are not straightforward I'll share my findings (hbaumhardt) for posterity;

cocjh1 at 19:50, 26 June 2009

2009-06-26T19:50:12Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 19:50, 26 June 2009
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	1. Screw out the new toe link ends, microwave rubber covers for 60 seconds, force end into it, coppaslip thread, screw in with around 4 cm thread showing each end. Squirt lots of grease (e.g. white lithium) into the cover.		1. Screw out the new toe link ends, microwave rubber covers for 60 seconds, force end into it, coppaslip thread, screw in with around 4 cm thread showing each end. Squirt lots of grease (e.g. white lithium) into the cover. (Latest Eliseparts kit comes with the covers already fitted).


	2. Inboard at wishbone from back to front: Long silver bolt - Washer - Shear plate - Conical - Toe link - Conical - FRAME - Washer - Nylock. Torque to 45 lbft (book says 55lbft but if the M10 nycloc nuts you have are marked S R or 8.8 you risk stripping the nut over 45lbft in a bloody hard place to remedy).		2. Inboard at wishbone from back to front: Long silver bolt - Thin Washer - Shear plate - Conical - Toe link - Conical - FRAME - Thin Washer - Nylock. Torque to 45 lbft (book says 55lbft but if the M10 nycloc nuts you have are marked S R or 8.8 you risk stripping the nut over 45lbft in a bloody hard place to remedy).


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	3. Hub carrier Uprights from bottom to top: Shorter black bolt - Conical - Toe link - Conical - 4 ~~thin~~ bump washers - big gold cone - UPRIGHT - Washer - Nylock. Torque to 45lbft (book says 55 lbft but the threads were stripping over 45 due lower grade nylocs).		3. Hub carrier Uprights from bottom to top: Shorter black bolt - Conical - Toe link - Conical - 4 1mm think bump washers - big gold cone - UPRIGHT - Thin Washer - Nylock. Torque to 45lbft (book says 55 lbft but the threads were stripping over 45 due lower grade nylocs).

	Had to file down the casting ridges [8 inch file] on the bottom of the upright to help the cone sit snug. Got worried about the amount of material being removed to get flat so left it sitting about 1mm proud.		Had to file down the casting ridges [8 inch file] on the bottom of the upright to help the cone sit snug. Got worried about the amount of material being removed to get flat so left it sitting about 1mm proud.

	[[Image:S2_Upright_toelink.jpg]]		[[Image:S2_Upright_toelink.jpg]]


	4. Refit brake calliper, brake disk, wheel. Have a cuppa and do the other side.		4. Refit brake calliper, brake disk, wheel. Have a cuppa and do the other side.
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	Grease (for balljoints)		Grease (for balljoints)

			== Links ==
			* http://arc.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=96885
			* [http://www.eliseparts.com/products.php?product=469 Uniball toe link kit]

	[[Category:Lotus Elise]]		[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
	[[Category:S2]]		[[Category:S2]]

Mr Wiki at 13:49, 17 April 2007

2007-04-17T13:49:17Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 13:49, 17 April 2007
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	Grease (for balljoints)		Grease (for balljoints)



			[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
			[[Category:S2]]

Stu at 22:21, 10 April 2007

2007-04-10T22:21:01Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 22:21, 10 April 2007
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	3. Whilst there is no need to replace the heat shields in the instructions I decided to mount the heat shields over the shear plates by grinding out the holes on the heat shields [dremel green bit] to line them up. Tapped out the spare holes [M6 tap] and used new M6x16 bolts and washers rather than pop ~~rivits~~ to simplify later messing around. Didn't do 2 of the holes on the pax side as obscured by the CAT and CBA to remove that lot as well.		3. Whilst there is no need to replace the heat shields in the instructions I decided to mount the heat shields over the shear plates by grinding out the holes on the heat shields [dremel green bit] to line them up. Tapped out the spare holes [M6 tap] and used new M6x16 bolts and washers rather than pop rivets to simplify later messing around. Didn't do 2 of the holes on the pax side as obscured by the CAT and CBA to remove that lot as well.

	[[Image:S2_Inboard_Toelink.jpg]]		[[Image:S2_Inboard_Toelink.jpg]]
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	JOB IS DONE		JOB IS DONE
	That took about 8 hours of trial-and error. With the right stuff and these steps I ~~recon~~ 3 to 4 hours max (~~thats~~ an estimate, not a quote).		That took about 8 hours of trial-and error. With the right stuff and these steps I reckon 3 to 4 hours max (that's an estimate, not a quote).


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	Metal cutting/grinding bit (heat shield holes)		Metal cutting/grinding bit (heat shield holes)

	Extra M10 Nylock nut (~~incase~~ you try for 55lbft and strip them)		Extra M10 Nylock nut (in case you try for 55lbft and strip them)

	Grease (for balljoints)		Grease (for balljoints)

hbaumhardt at 19:51, 18 March 2007

2007-03-18T19:51:19Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 19:51, 18 March 2007
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	3. Whilst there is no need to replace the heat shields in the instructions I decided to mount the heat shields over the shear plates by grinding out the holes on the heat shields [dremel green bit] to line them up. Tapped out the spare holes [M6 tap] and used new M6x16 bolts and washers rather than pop rivits to simplify later messing around. Didn't do 2 of the holes on the pax side as obscured by ~~exhaust~~ and CBA to remove that lot as well.		3. Whilst there is no need to replace the heat shields in the instructions I decided to mount the heat shields over the shear plates by grinding out the holes on the heat shields [dremel green bit] to line them up. Tapped out the spare holes [M6 tap] and used new M6x16 bolts and washers rather than pop rivits to simplify later messing around. Didn't do 2 of the holes on the pax side as obscured by the CAT and CBA to remove that lot as well.

	[[Image:S2_Inboard_Toelink.jpg]]		[[Image:S2_Inboard_Toelink.jpg]]


	3. Hub carrier Uprights from bottom to top: Shorter black bolt - Conical - Toe link - Conical - 4 thin bump washers - big gold cone - UPRIGHT - Washer - Nylock. Torque to 45lbft (book says 55 lbft but the threads were stripping over 45 ~~doe~~ lower grade nylocs).		3. Hub carrier Uprights from bottom to top: Shorter black bolt - Conical - Toe link - Conical - 4 thin bump washers - big gold cone - UPRIGHT - Washer - Nylock. Torque to 45lbft (book says 55 lbft but the threads were stripping over 45 due lower grade nylocs).

	Had to file down the casting ridges [8 inch file] on the bottom of the upright to help the cone sit snug. Got worried about the amount of material being removed to get flat so left it sitting about 1mm proud.		Had to file down the casting ridges [8 inch file] on the bottom of the upright to help the cone sit snug. Got worried about the amount of material being removed to get flat so left it sitting about 1mm proud.

hbaumhardt at 16:35, 13 December 2006

2006-12-13T16:35:38Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 16:35, 13 December 2006
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	Since the S2 steel hub uniball toe link kit installation is not straightforward I'll share my findings (hbaumhardt) for posterity;		Since the S2 steel hub uniball toe link kit installation instructions are not straightforward I'll share my findings (hbaumhardt) for posterity;

hbaumhardt at 16:34, 12 December 2006

2006-12-12T16:34:56Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 16:34, 12 December 2006
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	5. With wheels back on and on the ground, strap something long and straight to the wheel horizontally (spirit level and broomstick are great), set the toe to straight ahead neutral by eye to get you to a geo rig.		5. With wheels back on and on the ground, strap something long and straight to the wheel horizontally (spirit level and broomstick are great), set the toe to straight ahead neutral by eye to get you to a geo rig see http://wiki.seloc.org/index.php/Geo_Setups

hbaumhardt at 16:34, 12 December 2006

2006-12-12T16:34:04Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 16:34, 12 December 2006
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	Non standard stuff you may need;		Non standard stuff you may need;

	15mm long socket for original nuts (due length of bolt protruding)		15mm long socket for original nuts (due length of bolt protruding)

	17mm long socket for new nuts (due length of bolt protruding)		17mm long socket for new nuts (due length of bolt protruding)

	8" Flat Metal File (for uprights)		8" Flat Metal File (for uprights)

	M6 thread tap (shear plate mounts)		M6 thread tap (shear plate mounts)

	8 M6x16 Hex Head Set Screw and washers (shear plate mounts)		8 M6x16 Hex Head Set Screw and washers (shear plate mounts)

	Metal cutting/grinding bit (heat shield holes)		Metal cutting/grinding bit (heat shield holes)

	Extra M10 Nylock nut (incase you try for 55lbft and strip them)		Extra M10 Nylock nut (incase you try for 55lbft and strip them)

	Grease (for balljoints)		Grease (for balljoints)

hbaumhardt at 16:33, 12 December 2006

2006-12-12T16:33:26Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 16:33, 12 December 2006
Line 11:		Line 11:
	2. Inboard at wishbone from back to front: Long silver bolt - Washer - Shear plate - Conical - Toe link - Conical - FRAME - Washer - Nylock. Torque to 45 lbft (book says 55lbft but if the M10 nycloc nuts you have are marked S R or 8.8 you risk stripping the nut over 45lbft in a bloody hard place to remedy).		2. Inboard at wishbone from back to front: Long silver bolt - Washer - Shear plate - Conical - Toe link - Conical - FRAME - Washer - Nylock. Torque to 45 lbft (book says 55lbft but if the M10 nycloc nuts you have are marked S R or 8.8 you risk stripping the nut over 45lbft in a bloody hard place to remedy).

	~~[[Image:S2_Inboard_Toelink.jpg]]~~

			3. Whilst there is no need to replace the heat shields in the instructions I decided to mount the heat shields over the shear plates by grinding out the holes on the heat shields [dremel green bit] to line them up. Tapped out the spare holes [M6 tap] and used new M6x16 bolts and washers rather than pop rivits to simplify later messing around. Didn't do 2 of the holes on the pax side as obscured by exhaust and CBA to remove that lot as well.

	3. ~~Whilst there is no need to replace the heat shields in the instructions I decided to mount the heat shields over the shear plates by grinding out the holes on the heat shields [dremel green bit~~] ~~to line them up. Tapped out the spare holes [M6 tap~~] ~~and used new M6x16 bolts and washers rather than pop rivits to simplify later messing around. Didn't do 2 of the holes on the pax side as obscured by exhaust and CBA to remove that lot as well.~~		[[Image:S2_Inboard_Toelink.jpg]]