Shimming the Powertrain PG1 gearbox - Revision history

EliseS1 man at 19:21, 25 April 2014

2014-04-25T19:21:33Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 19:21, 25 April 2014
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	So now we are through the task of checking and adjusting the bearings of the three shafts in the PG1 gearbox. I hope this description can be of some help to others tackling the task of rebuilding a PG1 gearbox.		So now we are through the task of checking and adjusting the bearings of the three shafts in the PG1 gearbox. I hope this description can be of some help to others tackling the task of rebuilding a PG1 gearbox.
	== External links ==		== External links ==
	[http://www.rover-coupe.com/rcoc/index.php/download/category/4-manuals PG1 manual]		[http://www.rover-coupe.com/rcoc/index.php/download/category/4-manuals?download=14:pg1-gearbox-overhaul-manual-1st-edition PG1 manual]

	[http://www.rovertech.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=94&t=131793 Bearing identification]		[http://www.rovertech.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=94&t=131793 Bearing identification]

EliseS1 man at 19:17, 25 April 2014

2014-04-25T19:17:04Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 19:17, 25 April 2014
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	So now we are through the task of checking and adjusting the bearings of the three shafts in the PG1 gearbox. I hope this description can be of some help to others tackling the task of rebuilding a PG1 gearbox.		So now we are through the task of checking and adjusting the bearings of the three shafts in the PG1 gearbox. I hope this description can be of some help to others tackling the task of rebuilding a PG1 gearbox.
	== External links ==		== External links ==
	[http://www.rover-coupe.com/rcoc/index.php/download/category/4-manuals]		[http://www.rover-coupe.com/rcoc/index.php/download/category/4-manuals PG1 manual]

	[http://www.rovertech.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=94&t=131793 Bearing identification]		[http://www.rovertech.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=94&t=131793 Bearing identification]

EliseS1 man at 19:14, 25 April 2014

2014-04-25T19:14:31Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 19:14, 25 April 2014
Line 84:		Line 84:
	So now we are through the task of checking and adjusting the bearings of the three shafts in the PG1 gearbox. I hope this description can be of some help to others tackling the task of rebuilding a PG1 gearbox.		So now we are through the task of checking and adjusting the bearings of the three shafts in the PG1 gearbox. I hope this description can be of some help to others tackling the task of rebuilding a PG1 gearbox.
	== External links ==		== External links ==
	[http://www.rover-coupe.com/rcoc/index.php/~~downloads PG1 manual~~]		[http://www.rover-coupe.com/rcoc/index.php/download/category/4-manuals]

	[http://www.rovertech.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=94&t=131793 Bearing identification]		[http://www.rovertech.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=94&t=131793 Bearing identification]

EliseS1 man at 11:28, 1 January 2014

2014-01-01T11:28:17Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 11:28, 1 January 2014
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	Shim availability		Shim availability

	The thickness-graded circlip shims are a no longer easy to get hold of. In my case I fitted a new end bearing that was 1 mm wider than the bearing it substituted. So I could remove one of the two shims in the existing shim pack which consisted of a 0,95 mm and a 0,85 mm shim. So the 0,95 mm shim went out. The remaining 0,85 mm shim should be substituted by a 0,70 mm shim. I ordered a 0,70 mm shim from Rimmer Bros but it was backordered and arrived about 3 weeks later. By friendly contacts in UK a shim was sourced from a local dealer and it arrived within a couple of weeks. But if you are in a hurry as I were you can ask a machine shop with a surface grinder equipped with magnetic table to grind down an existing shim. In my case the 0,85 mm shim was ~~grinded~~ down to 0,7 mm.		The thickness-graded circlip shims are a no longer easy to get hold of. In my case I fitted a new end bearing that was 1 mm wider than the bearing it substituted. So I could remove one of the two shims in the existing shim pack which consisted of a 0,95 mm and a 0,85 mm shim. So the 0,95 mm shim went out. The remaining 0,85 mm shim should be substituted by a 0,70 mm shim. I ordered a 0,70 mm shim from Rimmer Bros but it was backordered and arrived about 3 weeks later. By friendly contacts in UK a shim was sourced from a local dealer and it arrived within a couple of weeks. But if you are in a hurry as I were you can ask a machine shop with a surface grinder equipped with magnetic table to grind down an existing shim. In my case the 0,85 mm shim was ground down to 0,7 mm.
	Ultimately a shim can be lasercut out of shim sheet steel if no other ways can be found.		Ultimately a shim can be lasercut out of shim sheet steel if no other ways can be found.

EliseS1 man at 16:08, 31 December 2013

2013-12-31T16:08:29Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 16:08, 31 December 2013
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	[[File:The PG1 gearbox.JPG]]		[[File:The PG1 gearbox.JPG]]

	The workshop manual for the PG1 gearbox can be downloaded from the web thanks to rover-coupe.com and should just be followed. This site is a good source of information of the various versions of the PG1 gearbox. You can also find good threads on other Lotus/MG/Rover forums with pictures to pick from. However I found that a good describtion of the procedure of shimming ~~the~~ the gearbox bearings was missing in the workshop manual and in the forum threads.		The workshop manual for the PG1 gearbox can be downloaded from the web thanks to rover-coupe.com and should just be followed. This site is a good source of information of the various versions of the PG1 gearbox. You can also find good threads on other Lotus/MG/Rover forums with pictures to pick from. However I found that a good describtion of the procedure of shimming the gearbox bearings was missing in the workshop manual and in the forum threads.
	After having been through the procedure I will pass on my experiences as a supplement to the above sources and hope it will of help to others in the process.		After having been through the procedure I will pass on my experiences as a supplement to the above sources and hope it will of help to others in the process.

EliseS1 man at 12:55, 29 December 2013

2013-12-29T12:55:00Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 12:55, 29 December 2013
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	'''Input shaft'''		'''Input shaft'''

	The input shaft is supported by two single-track ball bearings one at each end. The bearing in the clutch/differential house end is press fit in the bore. The bearing at the other end of the input shaft ie. in the gearbox casing is push fit in the bore. One or two shims are fitted in the bore behind this bearing. The shims look like circlips but have graded thickness. Behind these circlips is placed a belville washer. The idea is to put the bearings under tension by ~~compress-ing~~ the belville washer.		The input shaft is supported by two single-track ball bearings one at each end. The bearing in the clutch/differential house end is press fit in the bore. The bearing at the other end of the input shaft ie. in the gearbox casing is push fit in the bore. One or two shims are fitted in the bore behind this bearing. The shims look like circlips but have graded thickness. Behind these circlips is placed a belville washer. The idea is to put the bearings under tension by compressing the belville washer.

	[[File:Input shaft wiki.JPG]]		[[File:Input shaft wiki.JPG]]

EliseS1 man at 10:29, 28 December 2013

2013-12-28T10:29:41Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 10:29, 28 December 2013
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	Start by assembling the input shaft with gear wheels, distance collars, syncro hubs etc. according to the gearbox manual. Wrap some pvc-tape around the clutch splines on the shaft to protect the oil seal from damage.		Start by assembling the input shaft with gear wheels, distance collars, syncro hubs etc. according to the gearbox manual. Wrap some pvc-tape around the clutch splines on the shaft to protect the oil seal from damage.
	Fit a new oil seal and bearing for the input shaft in the differential housing. When removing the old bearing it is good practise to heat up the housing locally from the outside to around 80°C and then lightly knock the housing onto a piece of wooden board. The bearing will then drop out easily and without any damage. When fitting the new bearing also heat up the house and the new bearing will drop in easily. The heating should be done with an electric heat gun – the common ones for paint stripping are just fine. Check the temperature with one of the infraread laser pointer thermometers that can be bought in most tool shops for sensible money.		Fit a new oil seal and bearing for the input shaft in the differential housing. When removing the old bearing it is good practise to heat up the housing locally from the outside to around 80°C and then lightly knock the housing onto a piece of wooden board. The bearing will then drop out easily and without any damage. When fitting the new bearing also heat up the house and the new bearing will drop in easily. The heating should be done with an electric heat gun – the common ones for paint stripping are just fine. Check the temperature with one of the infraread laser pointer thermometers that can be bought in most tool shops for sensible money.

			Place the differential housing on your work bench with the engine flange down. Drop in the assembled input shaft into its bearing in the differential housing. Be careful not to damage the oil seal. Fit the ball bearing on the end of the input shaft pointing upwards.

	[[File:Input shaft fitted to diff housing wiki.JPG]]		[[File:Input shaft fitted to diff housing wiki.JPG]]

	Place the differential housing on your work bench with the engine flange down. Drop in the assembled input shaft into its bearing in the differential housing. Be careful not to damage the oil seal. Fit the ball bearing on the end of the input shaft pointing upwards.

	Remove the graded circlips, belville washer and oil guide plate from the bearing bore in the gearbox housing and clean the bore carefully.		Remove the graded circlips, belville washer and oil guide plate from the bearing bore in the gearbox housing and clean the bore carefully.

EliseS1 man at 10:27, 28 December 2013

2013-12-28T10:27:47Z

EliseS1 man at 22:25, 27 December 2013

2013-12-27T22:25:54Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 22:25, 27 December 2013
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	== External links ==		== External links ==
	[http://www.rover-coupe.com/rcoc/index.php/downloads PG1 manual]		[http://www.rover-coupe.com/rcoc/index.php/downloads PG1 manual]

			[http://www.rovertech.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=94&t=131793 Bearing identification]

			[http://www.rovertech.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1165 Bearing dimensions and cross references]

			[http://www.rovertech.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=17020 Heavy duty output bearings]


	[[Category:Transmission]]		[[Category:Transmission]]
	[[Category:Lotus Elise]]		[[Category:Lotus Elise]]

EliseS1 man at 21:46, 27 December 2013

2013-12-27T21:46:20Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 21:46, 27 December 2013
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	So now we are through the task of checking and adjusting the bearings of the three shafts in the PG1 gearbox. I hope this description can be of some help to others tackling the task of rebuilding a PG1 gearbox.		So now we are through the task of checking and adjusting the bearings of the three shafts in the PG1 gearbox. I hope this description can be of some help to others tackling the task of rebuilding a PG1 gearbox.
			== External links ==
	[http://www.rover-coupe.com/rcoc/index.php/downloads PG1 manual]		[http://www.rover-coupe.com/rcoc/index.php/downloads PG1 manual]

	[[Category:Transmission]]		[[Category:Transmission]]
	[[Category:Lotus Elise]]		[[Category:Lotus Elise]]

← Older revision		Revision as of 10:27, 28 December 2013
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	Measuring input shaft end play		Measuring input shaft end play

	Start by assembling the input shaft with gear wheels, distance collars, syncro hubs etc. ~~ac-cording~~ to the gearbox manual. Wrap some pvc-tape around the clutch splines on the shaft to protect the oil seal from damage.		Start by assembling the input shaft with gear wheels, distance collars, syncro hubs etc. according to the gearbox manual. Wrap some pvc-tape around the clutch splines on the shaft to protect the oil seal from damage.
	Fit a new oil seal and bearing for the input shaft in the differential housing. When removing the old bearing it is good practise to heat up the housing locally from the outside to around 80°C and then lightly knock the housing onto a piece of wooden board. The bearing will then drop out easily and without any damage. When fitting the new bearing also heat up the house and the new bearing will drop in easily. The heating should be done with an electric heat gun – the common ones for paint stripping are just fine. Check the temperature with one of the infraread laser pointer thermometers that can be bought in most tool shops for sensible money.		Fit a new oil seal and bearing for the input shaft in the differential housing. When removing the old bearing it is good practise to heat up the housing locally from the outside to around 80°C and then lightly knock the housing onto a piece of wooden board. The bearing will then drop out easily and without any damage. When fitting the new bearing also heat up the house and the new bearing will drop in easily. The heating should be done with an electric heat gun – the common ones for paint stripping are just fine. Check the temperature with one of the infraread laser pointer thermometers that can be bought in most tool shops for sensible money.

Line 26:		Line 26:

	Place the differential housing on your work bench with the engine flange down. Drop in the assembled input shaft into its bearing in the differential housing. Be careful not to damage the oil seal. Fit the ball bearing on the end of the input shaft pointing upwards.		Place the differential housing on your work bench with the engine flange down. Drop in the assembled input shaft into its bearing in the differential housing. Be careful not to damage the oil seal. Fit the ball bearing on the end of the input shaft pointing upwards.

	~~[[File:Gearbox housing fitted over input shaft wiki.JPG]]~~

	Remove the graded circlips, belville washer and oil guide plate from the bearing bore in the gearbox housing and clean the bore carefully.		Remove the graded circlips, belville washer and oil guide plate from the bearing bore in the gearbox housing and clean the bore carefully.
	Clean the flange faces from old sealant. Fit the two location dovels in the bores in the flange.		Clean the flange faces from old sealant. Fit the two location dovels in the bores in the flange.
	Fit the gearbox housing over the input shaft bearing, assure the diff and the gearbox housing flanges meet without tension, fit the 12 flange bolts and torque them down.		Fit the gearbox housing over the input shaft bearing, assure the diff and the gearbox housing flanges meet without tension, fit the 12 flange bolts and torque them down.

			[[File:Gearbox housing fitted over input shaft wiki.JPG]]

	Now turn over the gearbox so the input shaft points up. When turning the gearbox over you will hear the input shaft moving because of the slack from the missing shim pack. Ligtly tap the end of the input shaft to assure the bearing at the other end is fully seated in its bore.		Now turn over the gearbox so the input shaft points up. When turning the gearbox over you will hear the input shaft moving because of the slack from the missing shim pack. Ligtly tap the end of the input shaft to assure the bearing at the other end is fully seated in its bore.
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	[[File:Measuring diff bearing clearance wiki.JPG]]		[[File:Measuring diff bearing clearance wiki.JPG]]

	The clearance should be “up to 0,15 mm”. The circlip can be removed from the outside through the oil seal bore if the clearance is not met. The circlips are available in graded ~~thick-ness~~.		The clearance should be “up to 0,15 mm”. The circlip can be removed from the outside through the oil seal bore if the clearance is not met. The circlips are available in graded thickness.

	So now we are through the task of checking and adjusting the bearings of the three shafts in the PG1 gearbox. I hope this description can be of some help to others tackling the task of rebuilding a PG1 gearbox.		So now we are through the task of checking and adjusting the bearings of the three shafts in the PG1 gearbox. I hope this description can be of some help to others tackling the task of rebuilding a PG1 gearbox.