Difference between revisions of "Talk:Honda elise driveshaft gaiter change"

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m (Alternate methods & tips)
 
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Latest revision as of 18:42, 3 February 2012

As an alternative to stages 4/5/6 I do the following:

4: Undo the toe link connection to the hub. Unclip the speed sensor cable from the sensor on the hub (N/S only)

5: Undo the P clips securing the handbrake cable & brake lines to the wishbone

6: Swing the hub carrier forwards and gently tap the end of the shaft out of the hub

I find this is easier as there is no need to recompress the shock to get it back into place. The hub may need to be tied or propped back to keep it out of the way, as it does tend to swing back

Couple of other tips (from experience of doing the job several times now) are:

On the N/S - to remove the shaft from the gearbox, I find a long handled screwdriver (about 12" long) with a broad tip is the best tool, as it can fit into the gap through the subframe, and then once the tip is in place close to the shaft it can be twisted (twist until resistance is felt, then a sharp twist to release the circlip)

Don't tighten the boot band on the shaft end too much as this will allow you to re-position the boot a little on the shaft once its fitted, so the boot is at its 'natural length' which does seem to help their longevity a little. It doesn't matter (and may actually help) if the seal at the shaft end isn't air tight (I fit breathers made from WD40 nozzles to the shaft ends) as you tend not to lose grease from that end