Geo Setups

Some standard Geo settings

Geometry	Standard S1 & S2	S2 135R	340R Road	340R Track	Exige S1	Msport
Ride Height F/R	130/130mm	120/120mm	100/110mm	100/110mm	112/122mm	100/110mm
Steering axis inclination	12°	12°	12°	12°	12°	12°
Front Castor	+3.8°	+3.7°	+3.8°	+3.8°	+3.8°	+3.8°
Front Camber	-0.1°	0°	-0.5°	-1.8°	-0.5°	-0.3°
Front alignment/toe	0.2mm OUT Overall	0 mm	0.2mm OUT overall	0.5mm OUT overall	0.1mm OUT overall	0.2mm OUT overall
Rear Camber	-1.8°	-1.8°	-2.0°	-2.7°	-2.4°	-2.0°
Rear alignment/toe	1.2mm IN each side	1.2mm IN each side	1.5mm IN each side	2.5mm IN each side	1.2mm IN each side	1.2mm IN each side
Bump Steer			2.0° to 2.5° toe in

converting from mm to degrees; divide the toe in mm by the wheel rim diameter in mm then ARC SIN the answer

Geo setting X does Y

Some starter guidelines although its really really complex stuff and dependent on many other factors;

Increasing front camber from the default -0.1° to -0.5° each side will dramatically improve the understeer, although the inside edges of the tyres will wear slightly faster. Increasing past -1.0° is great for high speed corners but will compromise low speed cornering, will reduce breaking effectiveness and it will tramline on the road.

Increasing rear camber from the default -1.8° to -2.0° (or higher) makes the car more neutral after you've removed the under steer.

Increasing front toe in helps with the sharpness of the turn-in

Increasing rear toe out cancels out the rear suspension flex when the tyre is loaded which leads to toe out - so running more toe in compensates for that - you don't want toe out at the rear.

Setting your own geo

Whilst a race prep specialist can charge £200 for a Geo you can DIY castor, camber and toe settings.

1. To baseline your current setup www.alignmycar.co.uk will find a local place with a Hunter alignment system who will provide a setup sheet showing castor, camber and toe for £15

2. If you dont have the S1 or S2 service manual suspension sections you really should get them as this is only a small part; http://www.sandsmuseum.com/cars/elise/experience/maintenance/alignment/alignment.html

3. Set the front castor by "shuffeling washers" on the top wishbone pivots (caster is not actually that important).

4. Set the front and rear camber by adding & removing shims; removing a 1mm shim plate will alter camber by approximately -0.25° at the front and -0.30° at the rear (see above for camber effects).

5. You could set the toe yourself, but since a quarter turn of the track rod alters toe by 2mm its a damned delicate affair without a real time readout (toe settings are cirtical for handling).

6. Back to the alignment centre to check your config for another £15 and set your front and rear toe for another £30. You can now alter the camber without materially affecting toe.

MEMO: Someone else can explain how to create a DIY geo rig and set bump steer !