Geo Setups

Some standard Geo settings

Geometry	Standard S1 & S2	S2 135R	340R Road	340R Track	Exige S1	Msport
Ride Height F/R	130/130mm	120/120mm	100/110mm	100/110mm	112/122mm	100/110mm
Steering axis inclination	12°	12°	12°	12°	12°	12°
Front Castor	+3.8°	+3.7°	+3.8°	+3.8°	+3.8°	+3.8°
Front Camber	-0.1°	0°	-0.5°	-1.8°	-0.5°	-0.3°
Front alignment/toe	0.2mm OUT Overall	0 mm	0.2mm OUT overall	0.5mm OUT overall	0.1mm OUT overall	0.2mm OUT overall
Rear Camber	-1.8°	-1.8°	-2.0°	-2.7°	-2.4°	-2.0°
Rear alignment/toe	1.2mm IN each side	1.2mm IN each side	1.5mm IN each side	2.5mm IN each side	1.2mm IN each side	1.2mm IN each side
Bump Steer			2.0° to 2.5° toe in

Converting from mm to degrees: 1. Multiply rim diameter in inches by 25.4 to get rim diameter in mm. 2. Multiply the result by PI to get the circumference. 3. Divide the result by 360 to get mm per degree. 4. Divide the toe mm by the mm/degree result to get toe in decimal degrees

Geo setting X does Y

Some starter guidelines although its really really complex stuff and dependent on many other factors;

Increasing front camber from the default -0.1° to -0.5° each side will dramatically improve the understeer, although the inside edges of the tyres will wear slightly faster. Increasing past -1.0° is great for high speed corners but will compromise low speed cornering, will reduce breaking effectiveness and it will tramline on the road.

Increasing rear camber from the default -1.8° to -2.0° (or higher) makes the car more neutral after you've removed the under steer.

Front toe affects stability or responsiveness of turn in. Front Toe out (standard) makes the car more responsive turn in but causes additional drag in straights. Front toe in is more stable in straight line.

Rear Toe controls the stability of the rear through the corner. Rear toe in (standard) makes the car more stable and apparently the elise toes in more at the rear as the suspension compresses. Rear toe out causes the rear to steer out from the corner, reducing stability.

Setting your own geo

Whilst a race prep specialist can charge £200 for a Geo you can DIY castor, camber and toe settings.

1. To baseline your current setup http://www.alignmycar.co.uk will find a local place with a Hunter alignment system who will provide a setup sheet showing castor, camber and toe (probably in dd:mm:ss rather than decimal degrees) for £15

2. If you dont have the S1 or S2 service manual suspension sections you really should get them as this is only a small part; http://www.sandsmuseum.com/cars/elise/experience/maintenance/alignment/alignment.html

3. Set the front castor by "shuffeling washers" on the top wishbone pivots (caster is not actually that important).

4. Set the front and rear camber by adding & removing shims; removing a 1mm shim plate will alter camber by approximately -0.25° at the front and -0.30° at the rear (see above for camber effects).

5. You could set the toe yourself, but since a quarter turn of the track rod can alter the toe by 2mm its a damned delicate affair without a real time readout (toe settings are crtical for handling).

6. Back to the alignment centre to check your config for another £15 and set your front and rear toe for another £30. You can now alter the camber without materially affecting toe.

MEMO: Someone else can explain how to create a DIY geo rig and set bump steer !