Remote Boot Release for S2
There is a kit available from Elise Parts for an S1 remote boot release. However the lock mechanism is mounted on the engine cover on an S2, not on the car, so to use this kit on an S2 it would require mounting the solenoid etc. on the engine cover its self. This isn't something I wanted to do, so I used a bit of ingenuity and put something together myself.
I (nor SELOC or anyone else) take any responsibility if you break your car as a result of following this guide. This is a guide, not a fool proof set of instructions, as such it should be used with this in mind. Be warned: it does involve some dicking about with the cars wiring, nothing major, but you have to get a 12v feed and an earth from somewhere. Remember to disconnect the battery before you start cutting cables!
These aren't "step by step" "cut this here, tape that there, prod this under that" instructions, some element of ingenuity is required to put the pieces together!
I did this mod on my '04 non-touring pack 111R.
What you need
Shopping List
- 2m of bicycle brake cable (both inner & outer parts)
- 2x bicycle brake cable adjuster
- Central Door Locking Solenoid - I used a YD79L from Maplins - it includes several things I used in this HowTo. Don't be tempted to buy a cheap kit from eBay that looks the same, I got one and it broke within 2 presses of the button
- A button
- A 4-pin 12v automotive relay - you need one which has an open switch when the coil is not energised, and closed when it is energised.
- Some male & female spade connectors
- Some cable ties
- Electrical insulation tape
- Double sided tape / velcro
- Some cable (I used about 6m or so of 7 amp cable, available from Halfrauds for about £3.79) The amount you will use/need will depend on where you choose to get the power/ground from, where you want to locate your button, the solenoid and the relay.
- Beers.
Tools
- Screwdrivers
- Cable cutters
- Stanley knife / cable stripper
- Pliers
- Drill & drill bits
- Allen keys
- Socket set
- Spanners
- T50 torx/star drive socket
How to do it
- Remove both seats.
- The passenger seat has 4 allen bolts. The drivers seat has 2 hex bolts & two allen bots.
- Note: there is a small seat runner stop on the drivers seat. Don't loose it!
- Undo the seat and top mounts of both the seatbelts.
- Undo the seatbelts from the side of the seats (requires a 17mm spanner).
- Unclip the plastic covers over the top seatbelt mounts.
- Unbolt top mount of the seatbelt from the rollover hoop (requires a T50 torx/star drive socket and a BIG socket wrench, as it is bloody tight!).
- Remove the centre console storage pocket.
- Undo the screw at the bottom of the pocket from the top.
- Then undo the two screws you can see holding the lower part in.
- Carefully lift it out the way, and disconnect the plug on the back of the auxiliary power socket.
- Remove the speakers
- Unclip the cover over the speaker (if you have any), you may need a flat-head screwdriver to prize it off.
- Undo the securing screws holding the speaker in and carefully remove the speaker from the housing making sure you don't snag the speaker wires.
- Disconnect the wires to the speakers.
- Remove the bulk head covering
- Undo the 5 (?) screws / plugs securing the cover to the bulkhead. These may need persuading with a flat-head screwdriver to come out.
- The whole cover needs to be "manipulated", shall I say, to get it in/out of the car!
- Start at the bottom on one side near the seatbelt reels. You need to carefully bend the cover out from behind the roll-over bar cover.
- Once the bottom is out, work the top out in a similar way. It does need a bit of restrained brute force, but it will come out.
- Disconnect the connector on light in the middle of the panel before trying to remove it from the car entirely.
NOTE: My car doesn't have insulation behind the bulk head covering as it isn't a "touring" model.