Replace Wheel Bearings

Elise S1

Please Add Info

Elise S2

All S2 Elises (irrespective of engine type) use a similar type of wheel bearing. The only difference between these is that the later cars with ABS use bearings with integraded speed pulse sensors for the ABS, while older cars without ABS use 3 'plain' bearings and 1 with a speed pulse sensor.

The latter connects to the ECU which in turn feeds a signal to the dash.

Basic design

The wheel bearings on the S2 are complete units that are bolted to the uprights. The bearing units are sealed for life and not servicable. They can not be opened without being destroyed.

The bearing and hub come as a complete package ready to install. On the upright side there are 3 bolt holes (M12 metric fine) which line up with the holes in the uprights.

The bearing units are bolted to the uprights with 90Nm of torque on each bolt.

Bolts can usually be re-used, but examine them for corrosion (pitting) or other damage. IN case of doubt, replace with new ones.

Lotus part number for bolts: A116W1170F

Front

Undo the wheel bolts
Jack up the car on the 'A' jacking point to raise the side of the car off the floor.
For added security place some support next to the jack
Remove front wheel

If an M16 clamp-bolt is fitted through the hub (not required, but recommended):

Attach a size 24 ring spanner to the back so it locks against the lower wishbone
Put a rag between the spanner and the wishbone
Use a breaker bar and size 24 socket to undo the M16 bolt
Remove the bolt and washers, taking care not to mix up the washer types
Clean the bolt and nut, treat with anti-corrosion

Use pliers/clamp to push brake caliper pistons back (check reservoir!)
Use 8mm key to undo allen-bolts holding caliper to upright
Remove caliper and position on top of upper wishbone (may need to undo P-clip for brake line)

Remove M5 allen bolt holding brake disc on hub
Lift brake disc from hub

The hub and bearing pack are now visible and accessible. You will notice that there are pry slots on the outer edges of the bearing pack where it mounts to the upright.

Turn steering completely to one side
Depending on the type of bolt used, use a 19MM socket or 10MM allen head and a breaker bar to undo the three bolts than hold the bearing pack to the upright
Turn steering wheel straight again
Use a chisel and lump hammer on the pry slots to separate the bearing from the upright (rust and dirt will make it 'stick')
If you will not re-use the old bearing you can also hit the flange from the back with a lump hammer (this damages the bearing, so do not use this if re-using the bearing!)
After several hits on the pry slots the bearing pack will fall out of the upright

The old bearing pack is now removed from the upright and the new one can be installed.

Using some coarse sandpaper on a fabric backing (eg. grit 60-80) work on the opening of the upright where the bearing packl sits to remove all of the rust and dirt buildup
Clean out the bolt holes
Clean and de-grease surfaces properly so no grit and dirt is present anymore
Apply some anti-seize (eg. ceramic grease) along the edge of the hole so the new bearing pack will seat properly and can be removed easier later.
Offer up the new bearing pack to the upright
Depending on tolerances it may go into place immediately or need pulling in by using the bolts (this seems to vary)
If the original screws are OK, insert these from the back and tighten them finger-tight
Turn steering wheel to one side again
Using a torque wrench do up the bolts in a circular pattern until they are all tightened to 90Nm
Check that the bearing pack sits flat and true on the upright

If an M16 clamp-bolt was fitted through the hub (not required, but recommended):

Re-install clamp bolt and washers, coat washer surfaces with anti-corrosion grease
Attach a size 24 ring spanner to the back so it locks against the lower wishbone
Put a rag between the spanner and the wishbone
Use a torque wrench to tighten the M16 nut to 220Nm

Clean brake disc inner mating surface to hub
Install brake disc on hub
Install M5 allen bolt holding brake disc on hub

Install front caliper (may need to replace P-clip for brake line if undone earlier)
Refit allen-bolts holding caliper to upright
Use a torque wrench to tighten to 45Nm each
Re-fit wheel
Apply brake pedal a few times to re-seat brake pads/pistons

Have a cuppa!

Rear

Apply handbrake and put car in 1st gear
Undo the wheel bolts
Jack up the car on the 'A' jacking point to raise the side of the car off the floor.
For added security place some support next to the jack
Remove rear wheel

Remove split pin that secures castellated nut on driveshaft
Use a breaker bar and deep size 30 socket or a size 30 ring spanner on the castellated nut and undo
Remove the nut and washer
Push the driveshaft into the hub to make sure it's free

Release handbrake (keep car in gear!)
Remove lock pin and spring from brake caliper
Remove front pad by tapping it down and inboard
Use 6mm key to undo lower allen-bolt holding caliper to upright
Use 17mm socket to undo upper bolt holding caliper to upright
Remove caliper and position on top of diffuser/undertray (may need to undo P-clip for brake line)

Remove M5 allen bolt holding brake disc on hub
Lift brake disc from hub

If the driveshaft was stuck in the bearing earlier, now a 3-prong bearing puller can be used to press the driveshaft out of the bearing.

The hub and bearing pack are now visible and accessible. You will notice that there are pry slots on the outer edges of the bearing pack where it mounts to the upright.

Undo nut of outer trackrod joint to upright
Disconnect trackrod taking care to note order and type of washers
Swivel upright out carefully, making sure you do not pull the driveshaft from the CV joint
Use 8mm allen key to undo the upper mounting plinth bolts that connect the balljoint to the upright
Catch the camber shims that fall out and make note of the amount

Now the upright is only connected to the lower balljoint and can swivel relatively freely.

Swivel and tilt the upright so the splined end of the driveshaft can be withdrawn from the bearing
Move driveshaft out of the way and re-attach upper plinth temporarily
Swivel upright to it's (more or less) perpendicular to car

Disconnect speed sensor plug if required
Depending on the type of bolt used, use a 19MM socket or 10MM allen head and a breaker bar to undo the three bolts than hold the bearing pack to the upright
Turn upright straight ahead
Use a chisel and lump hammer on the pry slots to separate the bearing from the upright (rust and dirt will make it 'stick')
If you will not re-use the old bearing you can also hit the flange from the back with a lump hammer (this damages the bearing, so do not use this if re-using the bearing!)
After several hits on the pry slots the bearing pack will fall out of the upright

The old bearing pack is now removed from the upright and the new one can be installed.

Using some coarse sandpaper on a fabric backing (eg. grit 60-80) work on the opening of the upright where the bearing pack sits to remove all of the rust and dirt buildup
Clean out the bolt holes
Clean and de-grease surfaces properly so no grit and dirt is present anymore
Apply some anti-seize (eg. ceramic grease) along the edge of the hole so the new bearing pack will seat properly and can be removed easier later.
Offer up the new bearing pack to the upright
Depending on tolerances it may go into place immediately or need pulling in by using the bolts (this seems to vary)
If the original screws are OK, insert these from the back and tighten them finger-tight
Swivel upright to it's (more or less) perpendicular to car
Using a torque wrench do up the bolts in a circular pattern until they are all tightened to 90Nm
Check that the bearing pack sits flat and true on the upright

Clean and de-grease the splined end of the driveshaft and make sure no dirt or grit is present
Apply some anti-seize grease lightly to splines and mating surface of driveshaft
Undo upper plinth bolts again
Swivel and tilt the upright so the splined end of the driveshaft can be inserted into the bearing

Re-fit camber shims and bolts holding upper mounting plinth to upright
Use a torque wrench to tighten the bolts to 45Nm (8.8 grade bolts) or 60Nm (10.9 or 12.9 grade bolts)

Re-fit trackrod and washers
Torque nut of outer trackrod joint to upright (OEM spec nut and balljoint 74Nm, aftermarket, see supplier docs)

Push the driveshaft fully thorough the hu so it seats properly
Install washer and castellated nut
Use a torque wrench to tighten the castellated nut to 220Nm (if it turns, wait until caliper re-fitted)
insert split pin that secures castellated nut on driveshaft and hammer ends over

Clean brake disc inner mating surface to hub
Install brake disc on hub
Install M5 allen bolt holding brake disc on hub

Push/screw brake caliper piston back
Install caliper with inner pad in place (may need to replace P-clip for brake line if undone earlier)
Refit allen-bolt and M10 bolt holding caliper to upright
Use a torque wrench to tighten allen bolt to 28Nm and M10 to 45Nm
Re-fit outer pad, spring and locking pin
Apply brake pedal a few times to re-seat brake pads/pistons
Re-fit wheel

All Done!

Replace wheel bearings

Contents