Brakepad, rear change

1. Jack up the car and remove the rear wheel

2. You'll need a thin screwdiver/bar or preferably a pin punch to knock out the pad retaining pin. Insert in small hole in rear of caliper and knock towards the outside. The hole is much smaller at the back than the one you see at the front

• • • WATCH YOU DO NOT LOSE THE SMALL ANTIRATTLE SPRING (Bendy wire bit straddling disc). it may ping out as you knock the pin past it****

Holding Pin

http://gallery.seloc.org/albums/userpics/27410/050_Pin_Pushed_Out_1.JPG

3. With the pin out knock the outer pad inward to release.

http://gallery.seloc.org/albums/userpics/27410/070_Outside_Pad_Removal_2.JPG

4. Knock off the disc. Its not held on by anything other than the road wheel. Its likely to be held to the hub by road gunk/corrosion. Wire brush the end of the hub where it sticks through the disc. If it still will not move, use a large bit of wood, a soft faced hammer or a wood block between a metal hammer and the disc. Hit the top and bottom of the disc alternate blows and the disc will start moving off the hub. Don't hit the disc directly with a metal hammer. Brake discs are brittle and it will crack.

http://gallery.seloc.org/albums/userpics/27410/Remove_Disc_3.JPG

Remove the rear pad. Its not held in with anything once the disc is removed

http://gallery.seloc.org/albums/userpics/27410/Remove_Rear_Pad_4.JPG

Use a set of thin nosed pliers to push in and rotate clockwise to screw the piston back in. (as said elsewhere if its new pads then release the cap from the fluid reservoir and use a turkey baster to suck out some fluid. ****Don't take too much out that you'll let air get into the pipework**. Screw in/check level/remove fluid if needed /screw in some more/repeat if in doubt

Straight ended pliers will allow you to push with your body weight, using some of those cranked circlip pliers in the other picture will not give you the same leverage. ***WATCH YOU DO NOT SKID OFF THE PISTON WITH THE PLIERS AND PUT A HOLE IN THE RUBBER DUST GAITOR--- EASILY DONE***

http://gallery.seloc.org/albums/userpics/27410/Screw_Back_Piston_5.JPG

Replace rear pad, fit disc ***ENSURE THE DISC IS FITTING AGAINST THE HUB AND NOT HELD OFF BY THE INNER PAD - should be OK is you've screwed the piston right in ****

Slip the outer pad into place.

Refit the retaining pin and the anti-rattle spring clip. ***MAKE SURE THE SPRING WASHER (small ring) AT THE END OF THE PIN IS FULLY PUSHED INTO THE CALIPER TO ENSURE THE PIN IS SECURELY HELD (Shown still sticking out in this photo)

http://gallery.seloc.org/albums/userpics/27410/Reassemble_6.JPG

Before driving anywhere. Press the brake pedal a few times to take up any gap between pad and disc....or you'll get a suprise the first junction you come to

Re the stick-on anti squeel pads supplied with your pads. Lots of folk don't fit them as it adds a small amount of spongyness to the brake feel (has to compress before the pad actually moves). Personal choice. I've driven cars with both and not noticed any difference. Probably important if you are racing and need 100% brake control....

I've always managed pad/disc changes without having to resort to removing one of the caliper bolts/tilt it back on the other. Nothing wrong with that but you should apply some threadlock on the caliper bolt when you re-assemble if you go down that route