Difference between revisions of "Brakepad, rear change"

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1. Jack up the car and remove the rear wheel
 
1. Jack up the car and remove the rear wheel
  
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2. Remove the pad retaining pin. You'll need a thin screwdiver/bar or preferably a pin punch to knock out the retaining pin. Insert the punch in the small hole in rear of caliper and knock the retaining pin towards the outside. The hole is much smaller at the back than the one you see at the front
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2. Remove the pad retaining pin. You willl need a thin screwdiver/bar or preferably a pin punch to knock out the retaining pin. Insert the punch in the small hole in rear of caliper and knock the retaining pin towards the outside. The hole is much smaller at the back than the one you see at the front
  
 
***WATCH YOU DO NOT LOSE THE SMALL ANTI-RATTLE SPRING (Bendy wire bit straddling disc). it may ping out as you knock the pin past it****
 
***WATCH YOU DO NOT LOSE THE SMALL ANTI-RATTLE SPRING (Bendy wire bit straddling disc). it may ping out as you knock the pin past it****
  
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[[File:Rear Brake Pin Pushed Out.JPG|none|Retaining Pin]]
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[[File:Rear Brake Pin Pushed Out.JPG|thumb|none|Retaining Pin]]
  
 
3. With the pin removed, knock the outer pad inward to release.
 
3. With the pin removed, knock the outer pad inward to release.
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[[File:Remove Disc.JPG|thumb|none|Removing the Disc]]
 
[[File:Remove Disc.JPG|thumb|none|Removing the Disc]]
  
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Remove the rear pad. Its not held in with anything once the disc is removed
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5. Remove the rear pad. Its not held in with anything once the disc is removed
  
 
[[File:Removing Rear Pad.JPG|thumb|none|Removing the Rear Pad]]
 
[[File:Removing Rear Pad.JPG|thumb|none|Removing the Rear Pad]]
  
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Use a set of thin nosed pliers to push in and rotate clockwise to screw the piston back in. (as said elsewhere if its new pads then release the cap from the fluid reservoir and use a turkey baster to suck out some fluid. ****Don't take too much out that you'll let air get into the pipework**. Screw in/check level/remove fluid if needed /screw in some more/repeat if in doubt
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6. Use a set of thin nosed pliers to push in (hard) while rotating clockwise, to screw the caliper piston back in.  
  
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Straight ended pliers will allow you to push with your body weight, using some of those cranked circlip pliers in the other picture will not give you the same leverage. ***WATCH YOU DO NOT SKID OFF THE PISTON WITH THE PLIERS AND PUT A HOLE IN THE RUBBER DUST GAITOR--- EASILY DONE***
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Straight ended pliers will allow you to push with your body weight. ***BE CAREFUL THAT YOU DO NOT SKID OFF THE PISTON WITH THE PLIERS AND PUT A HOLE IN THE RUBBER DUST GAITOR--- EASILY DONE***
 +
 
 +
If you are fitting new pads then release the cap from the fluid reservoir and use a turkey baster to suck out some fluid. ****Don't take too much out that you'll let air get into the pipework**. Screw in the caliper/check level/remove fluid if needed /screw in some more/repeat if in doubt
  
 
[[File:Screw Back Piston.JPG|thumb|none|Screw Back Piston]]
 
[[File:Screw Back Piston.JPG|thumb|none|Screw Back Piston]]
  
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Replace rear pad, fit disc ***ENSURE THE DISC IS FITTING AGAINST THE HUB AND NOT HELD OFF BY THE INNER PAD - should be OK is you've screwed the piston right in ****
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7. Apply a thin smear of copper grease to the back of the pads. Look at the contact points on the back of the pads and only apply the grease on these points
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[[File:P1010138.JPG|thumb|none|Copper Grease Applied]]
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8. To aid refitting, its worth cleaning the retaiing pin with some sandpaper and greasing lightly with copper grease
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 +
[[File:P1010142.JPG|thumb|none|Retaining Pin]]
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 +
 
 +
9. Replace the rear pad, and refit the brake disc  
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***ENSURE THE DISC IS FITTING AGAINST THE HUB AND NOT HELD OFF BY THE INNER PAD - should be OK is you've screwed the piston right in ****
  
 
Slip the outer pad into place.
 
Slip the outer pad into place.
  
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Refit the retaining pin and the anti-rattle spring clip. ***MAKE SURE THE SPRING WASHER (small ring) AT THE END OF THE PIN IS FULLY PUSHED INTO THE CALIPER TO ENSURE THE PIN IS SECURELY HELD (Shown still sticking out in this photo)
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Refit the retaining pin and the anti-rattle spring clip. ***MAKE SURE THE SPRING WASHER (small ring) AT THE END OF THE RETAINING PIN IS FULLY PUSHED INTO THE CALIPER TO ENSURE THE PIN IS SECURELY HELD (Shown still sticking out in this photo)
  
 
[[File:Reassemble.JPG|thumb|none|Reassembly]]
 
[[File:Reassemble.JPG|thumb|none|Reassembly]]
  
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Before driving anywhere. Press the brake pedal a few times to take up any gap between pad and disc....or you'll get a suprise the first junction you come to
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10. Refit the road wheel
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11. IMPORTANT. Before driving anywhere. Press the brake pedal a few times to take up any gap between pad and disc....or you'll get a suprise the first junction you come to - VOE :-(
  
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Re the stick-on anti squeel pads supplied with your pads. Lots of folk don't fit them as it adds a small amount of spongyness to the brake feel (has to compress before the pad actually moves). Personal choice. I've driven cars with both and not noticed any difference. Probably important if you are racing and need 100% brake control....
+
Some brake pads are supplied with stick-on anti-squeel pads. Some folk don't fit them as it adds a small amount of spongyness to the brake feel (the pad has to compress before the pad actually moves). Personal choice. Probably important if you are racing and need 100% brake control/are a driving God.... other folk fit just happy the brakes don't squeel
  
  
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I've always managed pad/disc changes without having to resort to removing one of the caliper bolts/tilt it back on the other. Nothing wrong with that but you should apply some threadlock on the caliper bolt when you re-assemble if you go down that route
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12. An alternative technique to that detailed above that requires a bit more work is to removing one of the rear caliper reatining bolts and tilt it back on the other. If you use this method you need to  apply some threadlock on the caliper bolt when you re-bolt the caliper to its mount

Revision as of 01:50, 15 December 2011

This is the procedure for changing rear pads on an S1 Elise.


1. Jack up the car and remove the rear wheel

2. Remove the pad retaining pin. You willl need a thin screwdiver/bar or preferably a pin punch to knock out the retaining pin. Insert the punch in the small hole in rear of caliper and knock the retaining pin towards the outside. The hole is much smaller at the back than the one you see at the front

      • WATCH YOU DO NOT LOSE THE SMALL ANTI-RATTLE SPRING (Bendy wire bit straddling disc). it may ping out as you knock the pin past it****
Retaining Pin

3. With the pin removed, knock the outer pad inward to release.

Outer Pad Removal

4. To get to the rear pad you require to remove the disc. Its not held on by anything other than the road wheel clamping it against the hub. The disc is likely to be stuck to the hub by road gunk/corrosion. Wire brush the end of the hub where it sticks through the disc. If it still will not move, use a large bit of wood, a soft faced hammer or a wood block between a metal hammer and the disc. Strike the top and bottom of the disc alternate blows and the disc will start moving off the hub. Don't hit the disc directly with a metal hammer. Brake discs are brittle and it will crack.

Removing the Disc

5. Remove the rear pad. Its not held in with anything once the disc is removed

Removing the Rear Pad

6. Use a set of thin nosed pliers to push in (hard) while rotating clockwise, to screw the caliper piston back in.

Straight ended pliers will allow you to push with your body weight. ***BE CAREFUL THAT YOU DO NOT SKID OFF THE PISTON WITH THE PLIERS AND PUT A HOLE IN THE RUBBER DUST GAITOR--- EASILY DONE***

If you are fitting new pads then release the cap from the fluid reservoir and use a turkey baster to suck out some fluid. ****Don't take too much out that you'll let air get into the pipework**. Screw in the caliper/check level/remove fluid if needed /screw in some more/repeat if in doubt

Screw Back Piston

7. Apply a thin smear of copper grease to the back of the pads. Look at the contact points on the back of the pads and only apply the grease on these points

Copper Grease Applied

8. To aid refitting, its worth cleaning the retaiing pin with some sandpaper and greasing lightly with copper grease

Retaining Pin


9. Replace the rear pad, and refit the brake disc

      • ENSURE THE DISC IS FITTING AGAINST THE HUB AND NOT HELD OFF BY THE INNER PAD - should be OK is you've screwed the piston right in ****

Slip the outer pad into place.

Refit the retaining pin and the anti-rattle spring clip. ***MAKE SURE THE SPRING WASHER (small ring) AT THE END OF THE RETAINING PIN IS FULLY PUSHED INTO THE CALIPER TO ENSURE THE PIN IS SECURELY HELD (Shown still sticking out in this photo)

Reassembly

10. Refit the road wheel

11. IMPORTANT. Before driving anywhere. Press the brake pedal a few times to take up any gap between pad and disc....or you'll get a suprise the first junction you come to - VOE :-(

Some brake pads are supplied with stick-on anti-squeel pads. Some folk don't fit them as it adds a small amount of spongyness to the brake feel (the pad has to compress before the pad actually moves). Personal choice. Probably important if you are racing and need 100% brake control/are a driving God.... other folk fit just happy the brakes don't squeel


12. An alternative technique to that detailed above that requires a bit more work is to removing one of the rear caliper reatining bolts and tilt it back on the other. If you use this method you need to apply some threadlock on the caliper bolt when you re-bolt the caliper to its mount

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