Difference between revisions of "Timing Strut for Sprinting"
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For those wishing to compete in a timed event such as the SELOC Sprint events a timing strut should be used to ensure the most accurate timing. | For those wishing to compete in a timed event such as the SELOC Sprint events a timing strut should be used to ensure the most accurate timing. | ||
| − | The specifics can be found in the 2006 MSA handbook but in | + | The specifics can be found in the 2006 MSA handbook but in essence the following covers the basics. |
Height of Strut 254mm with a depth of 51mm, the bottom of which must be no less that 180mm from the ground and no more than 200mm from the ground. This strut must then be finished in matt black. | Height of Strut 254mm with a depth of 51mm, the bottom of which must be no less that 180mm from the ground and no more than 200mm from the ground. This strut must then be finished in matt black. | ||
| − | Below is a | + | Below is a suggested approach for making one, many people make many different styles but this one seems to work ok for me. |
* Note this was for a Series one Elise, it should be pretty much the same for an S2/340/Exige etc but just double check. | * Note this was for a Series one Elise, it should be pretty much the same for an S2/340/Exige etc but just double check. | ||
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To make mine I went to local DIY stores and brought the following: | To make mine I went to local DIY stores and brought the following: | ||
| − | '''1.5m piece of | + | '''1.5m piece of Aluminium cornering for around £4 from B&Q |
| − | ''*Note technically this is a little thin as it is only around 40mm on its longest side and should be 51mm, if you can find a slightly thicker piece I would | + | ''*Note technically this is a little thin as it is only around 40mm on its longest side and should be 51mm, if you can find a slightly thicker piece I would recommend it to avoid any issues with the course officials'' |
'''2ft of 8mm threaded rod, 10x 8mm nyloc nuts, 10x 8mm capped nuts, Total for these 3 items was less than £4 from Wickes''' | '''2ft of 8mm threaded rod, 10x 8mm nyloc nuts, 10x 8mm capped nuts, Total for these 3 items was less than £4 from Wickes''' | ||
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Assembly is pretty easy: | Assembly is pretty easy: | ||
| − | Cut 254mm off the | + | Cut 254mm off the Aluminium cornering or equivalent |
Cut 11cm off the threaded rod with the hack saw, file off any rough ends off the rod | Cut 11cm off the threaded rod with the hack saw, file off any rough ends off the rod | ||
| − | Next | + | Next loosely screw rod into front towing eye |
| − | Then hold the piece of | + | Then hold the piece of aluminium you have cut in front of the car and by using the ruler measure approx 190mm from the ground mark the aluminium where it meets the rod coming out of the towing eye, this is where you will drill your hole. |
| − | *''Note the location of the hole in the | + | *''Note the location of the hole in the aluminium will vary dependent on the front ride height of the car'' |
| − | Next securing the | + | Next securing the aluminium in a vice or similar drill and 8mm hole, dependant on the type of drill bit you have you maybe wiser to 1st drill a small guide hole. |
Next by holding the piece of rod in the pliers or mole grips thread a nyloc nut on each end, wind one down 2.5cm and the other 1cm. | Next by holding the piece of rod in the pliers or mole grips thread a nyloc nut on each end, wind one down 2.5cm and the other 1cm. | ||
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The 2.5cm end is going to be the end that screws in to the towing eye. | The 2.5cm end is going to be the end that screws in to the towing eye. | ||
| − | On the 1cm end thread the drilled | + | On the 1cm end thread the drilled aluminium over the end and fix in place with the capped nut, you may find a 2nd spanner or a 13mm socket handy here to get them nice and tight. |
http://gallery.seloc.org/albums/userpics/13397/strut_small.JPG | http://gallery.seloc.org/albums/userpics/13397/strut_small.JPG | ||
| − | Next screw the whole thing into the front toeing eye until | + | Next screw the whole thing into the front toeing eye until you reach the nyloc bolt at which point you should get a reasonable amount of resistance to tighten against. During this procedure be careful not to tighten it to much or you may scratch your front clam. |
When you are happy with how everything fits you just need to give it all a quick coat of mat black spray paint and your done. | When you are happy with how everything fits you just need to give it all a quick coat of mat black spray paint and your done. | ||
''*Note its worth taking the 13mm spanner and a pair of mole grips or pliers with you when you compete on the off chance it works its self a little loose.'' | ''*Note its worth taking the 13mm spanner and a pair of mole grips or pliers with you when you compete on the off chance it works its self a little loose.'' | ||
Latest revision as of 21:43, 2 May 2010
For those wishing to compete in a timed event such as the SELOC Sprint events a timing strut should be used to ensure the most accurate timing.
The specifics can be found in the 2006 MSA handbook but in essence the following covers the basics.
Height of Strut 254mm with a depth of 51mm, the bottom of which must be no less that 180mm from the ground and no more than 200mm from the ground. This strut must then be finished in matt black.
Below is a suggested approach for making one, many people make many different styles but this one seems to work ok for me.
- Note this was for a Series one Elise, it should be pretty much the same for an S2/340/Exige etc but just double check.
To make mine I went to local DIY stores and brought the following:
1.5m piece of Aluminium cornering for around £4 from B&Q
*Note technically this is a little thin as it is only around 40mm on its longest side and should be 51mm, if you can find a slightly thicker piece I would recommend it to avoid any issues with the course officials
2ft of 8mm threaded rod, 10x 8mm nyloc nuts, 10x 8mm capped nuts, Total for these 3 items was less than £4 from Wickes
I collated a small tool kit of the following:
Hack Saw, Pliers or mole grips, Metal File, Drill with 8mm bit suitable for drilling metal, 13mm spanner, Ruler'
http://gallery.seloc.org/albums/userpics/13397/kit_small.JPG
Assembly is pretty easy:
Cut 254mm off the Aluminium cornering or equivalent
Cut 11cm off the threaded rod with the hack saw, file off any rough ends off the rod
Next loosely screw rod into front towing eye
Then hold the piece of aluminium you have cut in front of the car and by using the ruler measure approx 190mm from the ground mark the aluminium where it meets the rod coming out of the towing eye, this is where you will drill your hole.
- Note the location of the hole in the aluminium will vary dependent on the front ride height of the car
Next securing the aluminium in a vice or similar drill and 8mm hole, dependant on the type of drill bit you have you maybe wiser to 1st drill a small guide hole.
Next by holding the piece of rod in the pliers or mole grips thread a nyloc nut on each end, wind one down 2.5cm and the other 1cm.
The 2.5cm end is going to be the end that screws in to the towing eye.
On the 1cm end thread the drilled aluminium over the end and fix in place with the capped nut, you may find a 2nd spanner or a 13mm socket handy here to get them nice and tight.
http://gallery.seloc.org/albums/userpics/13397/strut_small.JPG
Next screw the whole thing into the front toeing eye until you reach the nyloc bolt at which point you should get a reasonable amount of resistance to tighten against. During this procedure be careful not to tighten it to much or you may scratch your front clam.
When you are happy with how everything fits you just need to give it all a quick coat of mat black spray paint and your done.
*Note its worth taking the 13mm spanner and a pair of mole grips or pliers with you when you compete on the off chance it works its self a little loose.