Difference between revisions of "Damper Settings"
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| − | Yes really there is no magic answer as it changes with principle stuff like Damper type, valving, Spring Rates, Tyre types, Downforce, Wet/Dry conditions, weight of the car, your driving style .... | + | Yes really there is no magic answer as it changes with principle stuff like Damper type, valving, Spring Rates, Tyre types, those Tyre pressures, ARB, Downforce, Wet/Dry conditions, weight of the car, your driving style .... so your on a personal voyage of discovery, and since most one way adjustable dampers have 24 settings, why not plan 4 sessions and start on full soft (usual for road) and stiffen by 6 steps each outing and compare results. If you CBA just set them in the middle (-12) and be done with it, and if you dont notice any difference your just not cornering hard enough ! |
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| − | Front damper harder (than optimum) = more understeer ( | + | Front damper harder (than optimum) = more understeer (address oversteer) |
| − | Rear damper harder (than optimum) = more oversteer ( | + | Rear damper harder (than optimum) = more oversteer (address understeer) |
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| − | + | I have see great track driving on Elises with standard Nitron 1 way adjustables on 400/475 springs A048/R888 tyres and dry track from -6 to -18, and I'm sure some people run full hard or full soft. Whatever. | |
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| + | ===See Also=== | ||
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| + | [http://wiki.seloc.org/a/Ohlins_settings Ohlins Settings] | ||
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[[Category:Suspension]] | [[Category:Suspension]] | ||
Latest revision as of 19:51, 16 May 2008
The regular question "I have adjustable dampers in my Elise, what settings should I use ?" comes up, and here is the answer;
IT DEPENDS
Yes really there is no magic answer as it changes with principle stuff like Damper type, valving, Spring Rates, Tyre types, those Tyre pressures, ARB, Downforce, Wet/Dry conditions, weight of the car, your driving style .... so your on a personal voyage of discovery, and since most one way adjustable dampers have 24 settings, why not plan 4 sessions and start on full soft (usual for road) and stiffen by 6 steps each outing and compare results. If you CBA just set them in the middle (-12) and be done with it, and if you dont notice any difference your just not cornering hard enough !
Once you have found your natural position you can start tuning front to back, generally in steps of 2 clicks e.g.
Front damper harder (than optimum) = more understeer (address oversteer)
Rear damper harder (than optimum) = more oversteer (address understeer)
For Wet settings you generally need to soften dry settings (many run full soft) to allow the body to roll rather than breaking tyre traction.
For Damper settings we usually start at full hard (+) with valves closed and back off a number of steps (-) so settings are giving as "steps from full hard".
I have see great track driving on Elises with standard Nitron 1 way adjustables on 400/475 springs A048/R888 tyres and dry track from -6 to -18, and I'm sure some people run full hard or full soft. Whatever.